first mill project

[Melvang]

So I am going to be purchasing my vertical mill on the 15th of November.  What should I make first.

I will not be making switch tools to avoid stepping on toes of another member here.  I will also be offering services to countersink JD40's, both JD's stainless and Mkawa's Ti versions, this will include cleaning up the cut edges on the laser cut stainless and brushed finish as an option.

Aside from these what should I make first.

[FrostyToast]

Fancy ass spacebars?
Really not an area that has been explored much.

[jdcarpe]

Plates. And a wedge case for the JD40.

[The_Beast]

Plates. And a wedge case for the JD40.

A wedge case should be a pretty simple first project. Also a pretty cool one.

[Joey Quinn]

I don't know much about milling but a JD40 case would be cool if thats possible. I just love seeing the cool tools that I didn't know existed.

[FrostyToast]

Plates. And a wedge case for the JD40.

If we could give you a CAD for a custom plate and have that made, it would be nice.
It would also make it easier for people to make their own custom keyboards which would be great.

[dorkvader]

Plates.

If you'd like to mill me some plates for mounting hall effect switches, I can save some time and considerable expense in prototyping new designs.

The tolerances should be "easier" than cherry, and the corner radius is much larger. In return I would build you a prototype at cost.

[Melvang]

Plates. And a wedge case for the JD40.

Plates might be a while.  I need to test switch hole styles with standard tooling before I start selling those.  A wedge case is very possible.  I have had an idea in my head that would essentially be a very low profile case with a cover that would convert it to wedge style, with magnets as retention in both orientations.  Plus powdercoat or cerakote from Rainbow Paint and Blast.  Also, considering this for the GH36 as well.

Fancy ass spacebars?
Really not an area that has been explored much.

Not really suited for manual mills.  It would be one big ass rectangular block with probably just a radius or a chamfer around the edge.  Can you say gray or super black switches?  LOL

Plates.

If you'd like to mill me some plates for mounting hall effect switches, I can save some time and considerable expense in prototyping new designs.

The tolerances should be "easier" than cherry, and the corner radius is much larger. In return I would build you a prototype at cost.

That might be able to be arranged.

[Melvang]

Another project I was considering would be a series of jigs to take any and all guess work out of making cherry and costar wires for at least 2x, 6.25x, and 7x sizes.

[The_Beast]

^ Costar can easily be had from WASD, not 7x but still. Cherry 7x stabilizer bars seems to be hard to come by, so that should for sure be your first.


A simple bar foot for a Tinsaver might also be nice.

[Melvang]

A simple bar foot for a Tinsaver might also be nice.

Mind is drawing a blank.  Which board is the tinsaver?

[nubbinator]

A simple bar foot for a Tinsaver might also be nice.

Mind is drawing a blank.  Which board is the tinsaver?

Kishsaver.

[Melvang]

A simple bar foot for a Tinsaver might also be nice.

Mind is drawing a blank.  Which board is the tinsaver?

Kishsaver.

KiSHsaver is the 60% F.
KiNGsaver is Alps TKL.

Correct?

[nubbinator]

Correct.

[Melvang]

simple bar foot for either one should be pretty easy.

[dorkvader]

simple bar foot for either one should be pretty easy.

Oh, that'd be awesome. Can you make one for the 107?

I have an actual bar foot for a 50-key (for the base design) and the length measurements for the 107 if you need. I' can't 3D model, but I can measure and photograph.

[Melvang]

simple bar foot for either one should be pretty easy.

Oh, that'd be awesome. Can you make one for the 107?

I have an actual bar foot for a 50-key (for the base design) and the length measurements for the 107 if you need. I' can't 3D model, but I can measure and photograph.

measurements and pics would be great.  I wouldn't need 3d models as I don't have CNC.  Probably won't for a while due to cost.

[dorkvader]

I will do that.

[Melvang]

I will do that.

Cool.  Material suggestions for it?  304 stainless is out though.  It is incredibly hard to machine on a rig this size due to having to take such a large cut due to material work hardening properties.   I think 303 would work though as it is considered free machining as far as stainless goes.

[dorkvader]

It's just a foot. aluminium would suffice, but your easy steel is probably great.

The only issue I see right now is the clips that clip it to the case. The plastic clips will undoubtedly be easier to bend than steel ones. You might want to just not have any clips at all and have a threaded blind hole instead, so we can have a washer and bolt holding in in place. It would probably be a lot easier to machine and would work just as well if not better.

edit: bar foot has round plastic pegs with a metal insert so it can't slide out easily. I think threaded holes and a bolt/washer is a great solution.

[0100010]

4704 107 'bar foot' would be cool!  I read that the original one was plastic.  Decent pic here : https://www.flickr.com/photos/123564336@N03/15362626072/ (from Pyrelinks album).

I was just going to put some rubber bumpers on the bottom of mine, maybe using the original mounting holes (kind of like this http://i.imgur.com/FBqn134.jpg ).

[Neebio]

That's a nice little mill, reminds me of my Taig mini lathe, which I occasionally use like a mill.

Project idea: use mill to make CNC mill!

[CPTBadAss]

Case for the techkeys business cards.

[jbondeson]

I'm interested to know what kind of performance you get out of that size of vertical mill.

Down the road are you planning on trying to extend the Y axis to > 10" to be able to (easily) machine 60%+ plates?

I'm very interested in this right now as I'm planning on embarking on building a Kronos KRMx02 CNC Router.

[OldDataHands]

Are you enough mechanical genius to see how to make a set of dies for bending bits of mild steel shim stock into my DodoHand clips? Bending by hand around pins is perhaps not as repeatable as I would really need to keep switch feel consistent.

[Melvang]

4704 107 'bar foot' would be cool!  I read that the original one was plastic.  Decent pic here : https://www.flickr.com/photos/123564336@N03/15362626072/ (from Pyrelinks album).

I was just going to put some rubber bumpers on the bottom of mine, maybe using the original mounting holes (kind of like this http://i.imgur.com/FBqn134.jpg ).

On the topic of the foot.  I have an idea that would allow for 4 different angles depending on the orientation of the foot.  The one issue with my idea will be that I am not exactly how I am planning on mounting bumpers to it.  Or I could just make something like that first pic with a minimal height, and just include a set of spacers/shims with longer bolts to bring it up higher if wanted.

I'm interested to know what kind of performance you get out of that size of vertical mill.

Down the road are you planning on trying to extend the Y axis to > 10" to be able to (easily) machine 60%+ plates?

I'm very interested in this right now as I'm planning on embarking on building a Kronos KRMx02 CNC Router.

From what I am reading about it accuracy and repeatibility is excellent.  However, due to the size you aren't going to be making very heavy cuts and hogging out material quickly with the possible exception of some non-ferrous metals and plastics.

I am going to be getting the 2000 model so with 7" of Y travel I am not worried about that direction but I may swap out the X travel bed for the 18" version in the future.  With that I "should" be able to do a TKL case.  Granted I will have to utilize the pivot in the mount on the head and bring it to the one side, mill that side of the case, move to the other side and mill that side of the case.  It wouldn't require moving the part on the bed,  would just have to reset 0 which shouldn't be a big deal as I will be getting an edge finder for it.

Are you enough mechanical genius to see how to make a set of dies for bending bits of mild steel shim stock into my DodoHand clips? Bending by hand around pins is perhaps not as repeatable as I would really need to keep switch feel consistent.

YGPM

[dorkvader]

4704 107 'bar foot' would be cool!  I read that the original one was plastic.  Decent pic here : https://www.flickr.com/photos/123564336@N03/15362626072/ (from Pyrelinks album).

I was just going to put some rubber bumpers on the bottom of mine, maybe using the original mounting holes (kind of like this http://i.imgur.com/FBqn134.jpg ).

On the topic of the foot.  I have an idea that would allow for 4 different angles depending on the orientation of the foot.  The one issue with my idea will be that I am not exactly how I am planning on mounting bumpers to it.  Or I could just make something like that first pic with a minimal height, and just include a set of spacers/shims with longer bolts to bring it up higher if wanted.

I will get you photos and measurements tomorrow.

[dorkvader]

4704-100 (50-key) bar foot has the following measurements


from edge to far edge of center support: 131.0mm
width of center support: 1.80 mm
Full length: 260.2 mm

diameter of "peg" 4.70 mm
Length from edge to edge of "peg" 40.55 mm
Length from edge to center of "peg" 38.2 mm

Width: 15.0 mm

I broke the foot getting it out (old plastic is brittle) but was able to measure it fine. It's symmetric. Let me know of anything else you need measured.