Author Topic: Everything is Bakeneko  (Read 24328 times)

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Offline chungsteroonie

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Everything is Bakeneko
« on: Mon, 14 June 2021, 23:42:49 »
I just got into mechanical keyboards a few weeks ago, and was looking for some affordable options that had the latest fun-filled features.  One of the keyboards I saw a whole bunch of spicy Youtube videos about was the Bakeneko. . . an "in stock" budget keyboard perfect for someone like me.  Jokes aside, it's pretty frustrating trying to start into this scene with everything good being out of stock perpetually.  So, I was looking for some fun off-the-shelf options that I could play with and that I could repeat readily when the inevitable friend comes knocking.

For the Bakeneko, even with a couple of high volume drops, it's only sad face for me  :(



So I went looking for some alternatives like this KBDfans Anode Aluminum Case %60 --> Bakeneko



The main trick was hacking these little cutouts in the case for the O-ring gasket to clear the Durock V2 screw-in stabilizers.





And hacking off all of the PCB supporting bits from the case.



With all of the supports hacked off, I'm using 3/16" thick medium hardness Sorbothane as supports, and these can be placed wherever you want on the this particular KBDFans Anode Aluminum %60 Case Bakeneko.  Sure, it's pretty expensive material if you plan to do something silly like line an entire case with it, but I'm using literally scrap quantities.  The 4"x4" square that I bought will last me forever at this rate of use.



For this case I'm using a 9 inch diameter 1/8 inch thick Silicone O-ring that is 50 durometer.  Mine was purchased from McMaster Carr as an in-stock (for real. . . it's in stock) item.  Depending on the case being used and the gap between the PCB and the case wall, you can use different diameter Silicone o-rings to adjust.  The more you stretch the o-ring (smaller diameter), the thinner the overall gasket is.  For his case, the gap is quite large between the case and the PCB, so 9 inch sized o-ring used here  is the maximum diameter possible and there is no stretching at all when wrapping this size o-ring around a standard 60% PCB.

Because the side wall of this case are pretty thin, be careful when making the cutouts for the backspace key stabilizers as you can cut straight through the case like I almost did. . . don't be me!



Next, I also tried the KBDfans 60% Wood Case For DZ60 GH60 Wood Bakeneko



This one was pretty cool because I don't see a lot of wood cases out there with modern gasket-type mounting options.  Thanks, KBDfans for your innovation!  I'm re-using the 9 inch diameter gummy worm gasket here, but the case gap is smaller here than on the anodized aluminum Bakeneko above.  I will need to experiment with a smaller diameter one.  6.5 inch is too small.  I do not know what the proper size is, but I think I may try out 8 inch and see how that goes.  The 9 inch works and fits, it's just that I do not get as much of the satisfying PCB movement and I would like to optimize that a bit.  (EDIT: The 8 inch diameter 1/8" silicone o-ring works better than the 9 inch one in this wood case!)  I find the sound on the wood one to be quite satisfying though with a lot of interesting variation especially with this aluminum half plate setup. . which was provided by Dremel.





The rest of the internals are very similar. . . I yanked out the brass standoffs with pliers and then used a dremel to cut out all of the perimeter PCB supports.  A flush-cut router would have made quick work of everything, but when all you have is a Dremel, you kindof have to go with it.



For this case, I am using 1/8" thick Sorbothane for PCB supports.  This thickness is almost perfect in the application, and Sorbothane without any additional adhesives sticks LIKE CRAZY to the bare wood and wood finish on this case.  It is really not going anywhere. . .actually, if you try to remove the strips after installation, bits of it will be stuck to the wood.



The rest of the cutouts are about the same as before except the case wall is thick enough that there is no danger of cutting clear through.



Here are the spacebar stabilizer cutouts.  Assembly and disassembly starts by inserting the butt end of the PCB along with the USB socket in the case first and then pressing the front edge of the PCB in. . . so relief cuts for the spacebar cutouts allow the board to install and remove easier while still locking the entire assembly into place better than the original Bakeneko design.





Next, I also tried the cheapest option which is the KBDfans 60% Plastic Case  Plastic Bakeneko.



This one had the funnest flex of all the options but required the most cutting of the support spines inside the case.  The gaps are small, so a 6.5 inch diameter gummy worm o-ring is used here like suggested for the Tofu versions EDIT:  the 8" diameter O-ring works better in the plastic case providing better contact around the perimeter.





For rear PCB supports, I am using some EPDM rubber tubing left over from PC water cooling projects.  This stuff is 1/16" wall thickness which worked out perfectly on the existing support spine.



And, after cutting out the necessary plastic support spines to allow flex clearance, I'm using 1/8" thickness Sorbothane strips for the front PCB supports.



These are all of the Bakeneko's I've been able to find in stock at the moment.  I'm sure there are other ones out there like the really cool Baldr glass Bakeneko case that is in group buy right now.







« Last Edit: Sat, 28 August 2021, 15:20:08 by chungsteroonie »

Offline MIGHTY CHICKEN

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  • buck buck, cluck cluck, squawk squawk
Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #1 on: Tue, 15 June 2021, 11:07:33 »
everything is bakeneko
I am bakeneko

Offline Myrkwood

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 15 June 2021, 23:11:05 »
WE are Bakeneko

Offline hplar

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #3 on: Thu, 24 June 2021, 00:12:39 »
Excuse me for being a little slow here, but how do the PCB and plate stay in? From what I’m getting you got rid of the stand off screw-in slots, if that’s the case wouldn’t the PCB just fall out if the board is flipped?

Offline TheWonderBubble

  • Posts: 91
Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #4 on: Thu, 24 June 2021, 00:41:21 »
Excuse me for being a little slow here, but how do the PCB and plate stay in? From what I’m getting you got rid of the stand off screw-in slots, if that’s the case wouldn’t the PCB just fall out if the board is flipped?

Just don't type in zero-g and you'll be fine.  ;)
Shhhhh...my wallet doesn't know I'm here.


Offline Rubbermilitia

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #5 on: Thu, 24 June 2021, 01:54:09 »
Excuse me for being a little slow here, but how do the PCB and plate stay in? From what I’m getting you got rid of the stand off screw-in slots, if that’s the case wouldn’t the PCB just fall out if the board is flipped?
Its friction fit, people do this with unikorn, bakenoko, similar boards. Havent had the chance to actually read through this but it should be possible if using an o-ring around the plate/pcb

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #6 on: Thu, 24 June 2021, 02:20:55 »
The PCB assembly is friction fit around the entire perimeter. . . additionally, the rubber O-rings in this proposed mod configuration slot and lock into the grooves that are cut into the side walls of the case to allow the o-ring to clear the Durock V2 screw in stabilizers.  This VERY securely locks the PCB/plate assembly into position once the O-ring is squished in there.  It takes a significant amount of force to pull the PCB/plate assembly up by the front lip near the spacebar.  I usually use a pencil with a rubber eraser to push the PCB up through the access hole at the case base while simultaneously pulling up on the plate with one end of a switch puller.  It takes so much force to dislodge the O-ring once seated into the groove that there is no way it will accidentally fall out.  You can hold the keyboard upside down and shake it as hard as you can.  The PCB is not going anywhere.



Here is one of the front O-ring relief cutouts.  The wedge shaped portion of the cutout allows the O-ring to have enough space to wedge into place near the spacebar as the assembly is first pressed into the butt end of the keyboard where the USB port slots in on the left side, and the two cutouts for the backspace stabilizers are located.  With the back installed first, the front end of the PCB assembly is lowered into place, and the O-ring carefully squeezed into first the wedge cuts and then locks into the full cutout at the spacebar stabilizers.  Without those wedge cuts, it would be tremendously difficult to press the PCB into the case and even more difficult if not impossible to remove it.



Here is a photo where you can see the O-ring seated into the side of the case under the plate once installed.

« Last Edit: Thu, 24 June 2021, 02:37:40 by chungsteroonie »

Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #7 on: Thu, 24 June 2021, 06:52:00 »
I'm not so sure a lot of folks are chomping at the bit to buy and then hack up their keyboard cases like this, but if you plan to, the best Dremel tool to hand cut the inside case slots with is the #199 high speed cutter which works well on wood, plastic, and aluminum.



After doing a couple of cases with cutoff wheels and ball end cutters, I found this one to be far superior for control.

Another must have to avoid cutting too deep on the KBDfans Anodized aluminum case is a depth gauge.  I made mine from cutting an old credit card with scissors.



You can stick this into the groove as you cut to make sure you do not cut through the thin side wall of the case.


Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #8 on: Thu, 01 July 2021, 20:49:25 »
Economics of various mods as compared to group buy/wait options

The most economical VIA compatible options that I tried for 60% PCB's have been KBDfans DZ60 Rev 3.0 ($38), YMCK GH60 ($29), and KPRepublic XD64 ($30 caution: NORTH LED's!).  I don't think that hot swap PCB's are mechanically prudent to use long-term in this setup so I haven't tried.  The pads on the YMCK board seem a little more fragile than the KBDfans offering, but since I'm cheap, I'll go with that PCB for comparison.

Entry level kit options of gasket mount variety:

Cannon Keys Bakeneko kit - $130 (includes case, PCB, plate, stabilizers)

KBDfans D60Lite kit - $119

The Key Dot Co Portico - $135


Dremel Hacked Options:

plastic Bakeneko - $15 (case) + $29 (PCB) + $18 (Plate) + $12 (O-ring) + $2 (Sorbothane strips) + $18.50 (stabilizers) = $94.50

wood Bakeneko - $50 (case) + $29 (PCB) + $18 (Plate) + $12 (O-ring) + $2 (Sorbothane strips) + $18.50 (stabilizers) =  $129.50

Anodized Aluminum Bakenkeo - $73 (case) + $29 (PCB) + $18 (Plate) + $12 (O-ring) + $2 (Sorbothane strips) + $18.50 (stabilizers) = $152.50



It seems to me that the economies of scale tip the favor towards the entry level kits when available, but I do like having the ability to build a number of options with no delay if needed with very good performance and that can look pretty ok all the way up to the point where you open it up and look inside.  I've been able to learn a lot from doing these builds in various configurations and even had a chance to order some laser cut delrin plates to experiment with. . . even though I screwed it up and used 19mm key spacing instead of 19.05mm , a little filing sorted it out.  It is astounding to me how much of a difference changing out the case makes to the typing feel of the keyboard.  I was not expecting with the exact same PCB/plate assembly and mount system to have a completely different feeling coming back at my fingertips when typing between the wood case and the Aluminum case.  It's all been super fun.

A couple of options that stand out to me are the plastic case in milky white (available on Aliexpress) and the wood case.  The plastic material and molding/texture is pretty cheap on these plastic options but the milky white option masks a lot of those textural deficiencies and looks really nice with RGB underglow.  It also yields a comically light-weight package that feels and sounds really nice to my ear.  The plastic case also has the lowest front height and shallower typing angle than the aluminum case which suits my preference for ergonomics.  The wood case was interesting to me because it provided an assortment of varied sounds that was just fun.  I'm sure it is completely accidental, but there is a deep cutout on the right side of the specific case that I'm using which on the wood case, makes the right side sound significantly different from the left side when typing.  So, if consistency is your jam, you may want to select a wood case with more symmetrical cutouts.  There is not another wood offering on the market right now that I know of that is a proper gasket mount, and the material adds a complexity in the resonance it produces that just doesn't happen in plastic and metal.

Generally, Bakeneko seems to produce a sound with poppy alphas that are differentiated from the perimeter keys a bit.  These hacks retain that characteristic.  The Aluminum half plate accentuates that differential between the alphas and the perimeter keys as well as give the spacebar a higher pitched sound than the alphas.  The Delrin plate with plate foam seems to even things out a bit and creates a spacebar that is deeper than the alphas. . . more of a thud.

As expected, friends started coming out of the woodwork asking for builds so in the process of setting up another Aluminum case, I was test fitting a PCB/plate assembly to see if I had made my sidewall cuts deep enough, and I had not yet hacked off any of the standoffs since I use a bare PCB resting on the original standoffs to make my cut markings.  This was the very first time I typed on one of these with the stock mounting points intact, and even without the PCB screwed into any of the mount points, the difference was night and day!  There was a lot of metallic pinging sounds coming back at me in the stock configuration.  In the "Bakeneko" configuration, due to the internal void shape and material, the aluminum case is most problematic of the 3 that I have tried so far, but the most prominent ping coming only from the backspace key on the Aluminum plate configuration.  I made some efforts to tune that out with additional sorbothane, but in the end, I figured a ping isolated only to the backspace key could be considered it does not seem to happen with the Delrin plate.

I'll sit with these boards long-term and continue to tweak things specifically with adding weights to various internal areas as well as cutting internally to see if the sonics can be optimized more.  Overall, I think this build method is super fun and reasonably affordable.  I was inches away from purchasing Salvation when it first came out, and that would have been a really interesting board to have in my fingers for comparison and a reality check as to whether these mods are actually good or if they are in fact garbage, but I have not clue what I'm doing so did not pull the trigger.  Perhaps I will buy the weirdflex PCB and give that a go.
« Last Edit: Thu, 01 July 2021, 20:51:26 by chungsteroonie »

Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #9 on: Sat, 28 August 2021, 14:40:11 »
If anyone is interested in seeing and hearing this mod, I made a video of a build.


Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #10 on: Wed, 01 September 2021, 12:32:10 »
OMG!  I was reading in the BredWorks Bakeneko forum, and the solution is so much simpler than I have done so far.  Just cut the silicone O-ring in the spots where the stabilizers are.  It is impossible on their actual Bakeneko project to do so at this time because the gap that they have set is too narrow so it requires the O-ring to be stretched in order to fit, but the gap size particularly on the Aluminum KBDfans case here is quite wide, and I'm using an O-ring that is a lot longer and not stretched at all.  I think this solution may be workable for actually all of the cases I've explored here, and it would save at least an hour of hacking/modding.  I must order another case and experiment!


Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #11 on: Sun, 26 September 2021, 00:07:13 »
It worked!  If I use 1/8" (.139" actual) silicone cord stock instead of pre-made O-rings, for all of the configurations here, you can simply run O-ring along the top and bottom edge of the board skipping the parts where the stabilizers are.  This makes the slot cutouts in the side of the case unnecessary for gummy worm mounting.  Also, cord stock is way less expensive than pre-made O-rings especially when you get into the lengths needed for these mods.  The KBDfans cases have enough gap that the fit is rather loose around the outside perimeter, but I used 1/8" tape (any kind will work) to shim between the side of the switch and the silicone cord stock.  This allows you to fine-tune the amount of squish you want to put into the gasket.  .01" of tape worked well for me.  This would be one layer of masking tape or two layers of white-board pin-striping tape. 



The KBDfans wood Tofu case is now available for $33 and I gave it a try.  The good part about this case with the new cord stock configuration is there are no cutting mods necessary to make it work!  Just don't install the included standoffs.  I used 1/8" thick sorbothane for the supports.  The down-side to this case is the sound is very high pitched and clacky due to the very small cavity space beneath the PCB.  I presume they designed it that way to reduce the "hollow" sound that a lot of people don't like which is emphasized with tray mounting.  But, gummy worm mounting reduces that boxiness, and  more space underneath would provide a fuller sound.  Anyways, it works fine if you like the clack!  I don't think JWK's on a half plate were the best pairing here, but tape modding the bottom of the PCB helped a lot.  On the same budget, I'd go with Gateron milky pro or cap V2 switches in this configuration.  Or, mod the case for more gap underneath. 
« Last Edit: Sun, 26 September 2021, 00:10:05 by chungsteroonie »

Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #12 on: Sat, 09 April 2022, 06:25:40 »
I have been busy recently and continuing to experiment and build various "Bakenekos" and even went so far as to build an honest to goodness Bakeneko 65 from the open source files.  Little by little, I've been able to whittle down the price and chop off any cost that does not tangibly add to performance.   I am now only using cut silicone cord stock as opposed to notching in the sides of cases as the time savings and flexibility/tuneability is way better.  In fact, even on the Bakeneko65 build that has the proper posts for O-ring bottom support, I am using discontinuous cord stock because I needed to tune for sound by skipping certain switches like the space bar.



I discovered JLCPCB and open source keyboard PCB's and plates, and this has really helped drive the cost of the project down to remain highly competitive if not outright one of the best bang for buck options for a high performing setup assuming you are ok with buying 5 of everything.  There are always friends, family, and strangers who need a keyboard though.  So sharing is caring.  An example of one such configuration:

plastic 60% gray transluscent case - $17
switches - gateron pro yellow - $18
pcb - open source Plain 60 flex edition (JLCPCB) - $16.02
plate - fr4 half plate (JLCPCB) - $8.20
keycaps - PBT BOW with japanese sublegends - $30.68
stabilizers - Everglide V2 with UHMW holee mod - $17
o-ring - silicone cord stock 50A - $2
sorbothane strips - $2

Total: $110.90

Here is a sound test of this board:  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pZEQbbx-GB0zEwLUIznbS_eZuA7Aku2i/view?usp=sharing

And here is the board. 





As mentioned previously, I am using silicone cord stock now for these builds, and particularly with the KBDfans A60 case that has a wider gap between the PCB and case edge, I use strips of 1/8" tape along sides to adjust the amount of squish I want to have on the O-ring.  So, the tuning vectors are significant.  You can adjust where you place the O-rings along the perimeter.  You can adjust where to put Sorbothane blocks to support the bottom of the PCB.  You can also adjust with very fine control how much tension is present at the perimeter O-rings without changing to a different durometer cord stock.



Having experimented with a few builds, a few particularly good combinations have come out.  I kindof think of them as the holy trinity of cheap. 

1)  As pictured above with sound test, the plastic case just punches way above its pay grade, and I use one for my daily driver.  FR4 half plate, Plain 60 flex edition PCB, and gateron pro yellow (lubed) is the baseline for me and this is run without any foam or filler in the case.  It just runs and is very forgiving of plate, PCB, and switch choice.    Stepping up slightly would be JWICK black/black for that characteristic JWK smoothness.  I like these lubed and filmed with spring swap to TX 60g or 62g 16mm springs the addition of which adds $.10 to $.14 per switch.  And my daily driver runs lubed/filmed/spring swapped Mauves on aluminum half plate.

2)  The "wood bakeneko" . . . KBDfans $33 Wood Tofu case is unique in that it requires no modifications or cutting to work in this configuration.  The board uses screw-in plate standoffs.  Simply do not install those and use 1/8" thickness sorbothane strips on the bottom edges, and you are done.  Just drop it in.  One note is the sound profile of this case is clacky and high pitched, but the specific combo of gateron pro milky yellow, FR4 half plate, Plain60 flex edition PCB, and a puff of polyfill under the center section of the PCB (to attenuate flex and bottom-out).  The sound profile is pleasing like raindrops falling on a roof.  Yes, it is higher pitched, but this switch choice works.  The spacebar has a tremendously satisfying pop and wood rounds out the tone in a way that only wood can.  Plus, there are not a lot of wood options in the hobby to compare to.  This is my go-to wedding gift or thank-you-for-dog-sitting item because it looks really nice and requires the least amount of work.  Using JWICKS here on a half plate, I find too piercing in the high end.  Tempered with a polycarbonate, POM, or Delrin full plate though, the treble is better attenuated, and sonic results satisfactory, but naked on the half plate, I think they are a bit exposed.  Gat millky pro yellows are really good though on half plate. . . anything thockier would also work.



3) The aluminum KBDfans A60.  As a "Bakeneko", this case consistently delivers a high level result on every PCB/switch/plate combo that I throw at it including the baseline gateron pro milky yellow, FR4 half plate, and Plain 60 Flex Edition PCB.  It exhibits a little bit of ping or ring on the mods, but I don't trying to tune it out because it is slight enough to not really be noticed, the duration is short, and the tonality of the ring is not offensive i my opinion.  The god configuration on this case that I have now built 3 of and am never disappointed when I go back to type on it is Delrin full plate, plate foam, Plain 60 flex edition or regular PCB, Alpacas lubed filmed and spring swapped 62g TX 16mm (or Mauves, Lilacs, or other recolor of same switch).  Big smiles every time I get on this config.  I personally think it is balanced, refined, has that characteristic pop of the Bakeneko, a fun differentiation of tone between the mod keys and alphas, and can go to bat against actual high end setups toe to toe for sound and feel.



« Last Edit: Mon, 11 April 2022, 23:49:35 by chungsteroonie »

Offline granola bar enthusiast

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #13 on: Sun, 10 April 2022, 12:54:20 »
another fun board to do this with is the rk61 thanks to it having these little jut outs on the case, you can also file them down to get it lower
« Last Edit: Sat, 07 May 2022, 21:01:21 by granola bar enthusiast »

Offline Mikhail

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #14 on: Thu, 19 May 2022, 17:44:24 »
I have KBDfans $33 Wood Tofu, stands remove, few 3mm gasket foam from d60/d65 stick on PCB back, some rubbers on sides to stabilized PCB in place. Plateless light weight flexy custom. Now you can use D60 flex cut version for more flex.
Stock 4 stands works great too, but plateless build starts bend.

Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #15 on: Sun, 22 May 2022, 23:20:36 »
Updated sound test for a few more "bakenekos".


« Last Edit: Wed, 17 August 2022, 07:35:06 by chungsteroonie »

Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #16 on: Wed, 17 August 2022, 06:21:24 »
More iterations. . . more sound tests!



A few discoveries about budget switches that work well on these cases:

KTT Roses $0.27 and KTT Halu Halo $0.30 on the plastic case!!!!!  Hilariously fun.

Walnut Tofu - still don't use anything clackier than a Gateron Milky Pro Yellow $0.24 .  Milky Cap V2 $.030 works well here

A60 - I wish it were cheaper, but the JWK Alpaca/Mauve on POM/Delrin plate with plate foam is something special in that case.
« Last Edit: Wed, 17 August 2022, 07:38:17 by chungsteroonie »

Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #17 on: Sun, 11 September 2022, 22:02:40 »
More sound tests from latest iterations


Offline mohawk1367

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #18 on: Thu, 15 September 2022, 07:47:37 »
wait, its all bakeneko?
someone needs to make an aussie keyboard community called QMƎɹ┴⅄. get it? haha :D

Offline m33k

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #19 on: Tue, 18 October 2022, 11:14:40 »
It worked!  If I use 1/8" (.139" actual) silicone cord stock instead of pre-made O-rings, for all of the configurations here, you can simply run O-ring along the top and bottom edge of the board skipping the parts where the stabilizers are.  This makes the slot cutouts in the side of the case unnecessary for gummy worm mounting.  Also, cord stock is way less expensive than pre-made O-rings especially when you get into the lengths needed for these mods. 

is this High-Temperature Soft Silicone variant the particular o-ring cord stock you've been using? https://www.mcmaster.com/cord-stock/high-temperature-soft-silicone-o-ring-cord-stock/

I bought one of your a60 gummy worm mount builds and loved it, but I wanted to pick up more cord stock to fit a different bottom row layout

Offline jenkinslogan

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #20 on: Tue, 18 October 2022, 23:38:51 »
The keyboard is unique. I like the decoration of the keyboard like that.fnf mods I don't know if it's too expensive for me.

Offline chungsteroonie

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #21 on: Wed, 23 November 2022, 05:35:48 »
I've been watching a lot of Youtube videos with Singa Unikorn sound tests, and after experimenting with flex cuts and more flex cuts and half plates. . .I'm circling back to fewer flex cuts and full plate.  There's something uniquely satisfying about gummy O-ring on the stiffer setup and its case interaction that is special.  I know the A60 is capable of that poppy raw sound so I tried to chase the Unikorn with it.  I really really liked the Alpaca, Delrin full plate, plate foam configuration, and results have been repeatable across a couple of builds. . . very satisfying, but I wanted something cheaper and think I may have got one that works.

A60 case (hacked for gummy worm)
AEboards Raed R2.1 switches
Aluminum full plate
plate foam (weather stripping because we are being cheap)
Plain60 flex edition PCB
Durock V2 stabs
50 durometer silicone cord stock
Sorbothane blocks supporting bottom of PCB

You decide for yourself, but I think this is better than the Bakeneko but worse than the Unikorn.  The alphas and the spacebar ended up pretty darn perfect to my ear. . . ping is present at the corner mod keys particularly but not nearly as bad as exists throughout the bakeneko.  This ping can be ~80% tuned out by using kilmat at the bottom of the case, but that makes the air space under the PCB smaller compressing the sound signature.  It's cleaner sounding, but doesn't breath as well. . . And that direct sound coming off the bare aluminum case floor is something I hear in the Unikorn that I like. . .  A lot of boards are moving away from these days with very small air gaps under the PCB.  I quite like the balance and feel of this combination.  It feels very live and fun.

« Last Edit: Wed, 23 November 2022, 06:24:04 by chungsteroonie »

Offline evelynjones

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #22 on: Tue, 10 January 2023, 01:41:07 »
you learn in detail. I want to buy the same as your keyboard. Where can I buy?



parkour block 3d

Offline ehside

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Re: Everything is Bakeneko
« Reply #23 on: Tue, 17 January 2023, 23:44:31 »
What are those pink and green keycaps in the original post?