Alps Appreciation Thread

[ED2914]

They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.

Yes they are short switchplate.
Meanwhile, the coding on the top-housing is different too. Only one letter at right hand corner without number.

The funniest thing is that the key feel and sound is same as normal blue alps rather than white alps.

[E3E]

It is really difficult for me to understand the point of trying out keyboards and switches for those who can't touch type, like the one in the video above.

I hear you there, though for me, owning nice old and custom keyboards is a high incentive for me to improve my technique. I have some lazy habits with typing; I'm not 100% perfect with my form, but I do like practicing with proper form.

They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.

Yes they are short switchplate.
Meanwhile, the coding on the top-housing is different too. Only one letter at right hand corner without number.

Show Image

The funniest thing is that the key feel and sound is same as normal blue alps rather than white alps.

I think the click leaves are probably the biggest factor to feel. I noticed this when swapping blue leaves into other switches. That's certainly the most special component of a blue Alps switch. Lubed sliders and such can be found in other switches, but that click leaf is unique.

[ED2914]

It is really difficult for me to understand the point of trying out keyboards and switches for those who can't touch type, like the one in the video above.

I hear you there, though for me, owning nice old and custom keyboards is a high incentive for me to improve my technique. I have some lazy habits with typing; I'm not 100% perfect with my form, but I do like practicing with proper form.

They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.

Yes they are short switchplate.
Meanwhile, the coding on the top-housing is different too. Only one letter at right hand corner without number.

Show Image

The funniest thing is that the key feel and sound is same as normal blue alps rather than white alps.

I think the click leaves are probably the biggest factor to feel. I noticed this when swapping blue leaves into other switches. That's certainly the most special component of a blue Alps switch. Lubed sliders and such can be found in other switches, but that click leaf is unique.

But the click leaves are very close to white alps's. The only difference is the "bump" is slightly flatter than the blue's. I have tried to swap the leaves to a blue alps and the key feel is nearly the same.

As the component are nearly the same, the different feel of blue alps with white alps may only caused by the spring?

[chyros]

It is really difficult for me to understand the point of trying out keyboards and switches for those who can't touch type, like the one in the video above.

I hear you there, though for me, owning nice old and custom keyboards is a high incentive for me to improve my technique. I have some lazy habits with typing; I'm not 100% perfect with my form, but I do like practicing with proper form.

They're definitely short switch plates as you can see them raised up over the bottom housing's "floor" there's no way that'd happen with a long switch plate unless the switch was desoldered and the plates got pulled up during switch top removal. The long switch plates are flush with the bottom.

Yes they are short switchplate.
Meanwhile, the coding on the top-housing is different too. Only one letter at right hand corner without number.

Show Image

The funniest thing is that the key feel and sound is same as normal blue alps rather than white alps.

I think the click leaves are probably the biggest factor to feel. I noticed this when swapping blue leaves into other switches. That's certainly the most special component of a blue Alps switch. Lubed sliders and such can be found in other switches, but that click leaf is unique.

But the click leaves are very close to white alps's. The only difference is the "bump" is slightly flatter than the blue's. I have tried to swap the leaves to a blue alps and the key feel is nearly the same.

As the component are nearly the same, the different feel of blue alps with white alps may only caused by the spring?

Over time, every single component pretty much was changed between white and blue Alps. It was a step-by-step process though, and those must be among the youngest blue Alps I've seen (although I've even seen branded ones). Similarly there are very young white Alps that have more in common with blue Alps.

Next weekend there will be a video showing details on this ;) .

[Mattr567]

I have bought a Packard Bell T8023 at Taobao recently. This is a lovely keyboard and I cleaned it today, but wait...

I know the difference between blue and white alps are quite small sometimes, such as blue alps with ALPS logo top-housing or white switchplate instead of grey switchplate,
but these are not white switchplate only, these are white switchplate with white alps leaves!

A Japanese found it also.

Nice find!

My T9102 (same board) also has short white plates and Alps logo's on the top housings. I thought they were long white until I just re-checked. I got mine on my local craigslist that was still bundled with it's original computer. My board also has the same manufactureing date as your's, 8942. Yea the keyfeel is unchanged. It seems this board has consistent late Blue Alps with white plates and top housing logo's.

[E3E]

Got in this MouseTrak trackball specifically designed for the Xerox DocuTech systems a few days ago from HouseOfSuffering. It's on loan as part of the kit I'm sending out to Wingpad in hopes he can get a converter made for the board and all it's features, including the integrated mouse port.

This thing is really neat. MASSIVE though.

[Mattr567]

Good luck! A USBified Xerox would be awesome! The layout isn't terrible either.

[E3E]

Good luck! A USBified Xerox would be awesome! The layout isn't terrible either.

True! The typical Xerox's layout is 84 keys + 10 SKCL compact function keys on the top, so a 94 key would be pretty functional. There's also the weird one I have with the split left shift which makes it a 95 key. I would definitely use one in rotation. They're fun boards to type on even non-functionally, haha. They're built well! Impressive for a board that uses no screws other than to pin the PCB to the plate.

[Mattr567]

I wonder if it's possible to transplant a older Zenith logo off a discarded Z-150 case or something onto a newer tree logo keyboard.

[mike52787]

I wonder if it's possible to transplant a older Zenith logo off a discarded Z-150 case or something onto a newer tree logo keyboard.

I don't see why not, as long as the label is the same size.

[E3E]

I wonder if it's possible to transplant a older Zenith logo off a discarded Z-150 case or something onto a newer tree logo keyboard.

I mean, I gave Proximity my black label from the Z-150 so he could put it on his modded AT version.

If you mean for the 163-73, then I'm not sure about that. Not sure if the dimensions are the same.

[alienman82]

removed.

[Mattr567]

I wonder if it's possible to transplant a older Zenith logo off a discarded Z-150 case or something onto a newer tree logo keyboard.

I mean, I gave Proximity my black label from the Z-150 so he could put it on his modded AT version.

If you mean for the 163-73, then I'm not sure about that. Not sure if the dimensions are the same.

Yea the 163-73. They're the same size as the ZKB-2 (since it's the same case) which is the same as the Z-150 I believe.

Since a lot of people desolder Z-150's I wonder if anyone has got a discarded case laying around.

[Mattr567]

Welp, posted in the classifieds about it. Hopefully someone out there has an old Z-150 carcass laying around. Seems a common enough thing to do.

[SomethingDignified]

@Chyros: I have yet to try a NIB or NOS Alps board, but I've reconditioned some that give me an excellent typing experience compared to all the keyboards with which I am familiar (e.g. other boards with the following switch categories: other Alps, Matias, Cherry mx and clones, RAL, NMB Space Invaders, IBM Model M, IBM Model F, and Topre). Among these, it seems that Alps are quite sensitive to the ravages of time, and so I am very glad that in addition to Alps, I like other types of  vintage switches (especially IBM Model F) and some contemporary switches (especially Topre). Maybe someday I will get my hands on a NIB/NOS Alps board, at which time I can recalibrate!

I just obtained a white ALPS board I loved in the 90s, a PC Accessories/Chicony KB-7001, and I'm having some problems with binding/friction, I think. Do you know of a good guide to lubing/maintenance? I'm a bit new to being a keyboard "enthusiast". (Yeah, I am googling.)

[Hypersphere]

@SomethingDignified: You can remove the case, remove the keycaps, and dismantle the switches (take off the tops and remove the slider, return spring, and click leaf from each switch). Optionally clean each switch bottom and switchplate with contact cleaner. Clean the tops, sliders, springs, and click leaves in an ultrasonic cleaner. Rinse several times with hot water and then rinse twice with distilled water and/or 70% or 91% isopropyl alcohol. Spread components out on a clean lint-free cloth and allow to dry. Lube the switch rails in the switch tops with synthetic oil such as Superlube 51010 using a small paint brush. Reassemble switches taking care to avoid damaging the switchplate and/or click leaf. Be sure each switch works correctly; sometimes it is necessary to pull the top off again and re-seat to ensure that all the components are aligned and free to move. To keep the return spring in place during reassembly, you can use a very small dab of synthetic grease applied to the center of the slider where the spring fits. To remove the tops, I use an "Alps Trident" tool that I bought from "MrBishop" on GH. Chyros also has a video tutorial on opening switches. This is a tedious process, but if done carefully, I have found that it produces excellent results at making the keyboard smooth and free of binding.

[HPE1000]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

[mike52787]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.

[HPE1000]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.

I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.

[mike52787]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.

I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.

In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.

[HPE1000]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.

I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.

In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.

It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear

[mike52787]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.

I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.

In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.

It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear

The mounts on the original plate are different than normal 60% plates, so good luck. I dont believe it was meant to be put in another case. I would show pics of what I mean, but I leant it to alienman to try it out.

[HPE1000]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.

I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.

In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.

It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear

The mounts on the original plate are different than normal 60% plates, so good luck. I dont believe it was meant to be put in another case. I would show pics of what I mean, but I leant it to alienman to try it out.

If I remember correctly, it works, you just cannot use all 5-6 screws, you have to leave out a few.

[mike52787]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Desoldering the v60 is a *****. Lead free solder, and a multi layer board. Your best bet is just buying an alps64 pcb, cutting a plate, and buying a cheap 60% case.

I don't mind desoldering though, I have desoldered plenty of boards with lead free solder and dual layer pcbs. It is annoying, yes, but with some effort, not too bad. I am more concerned with the quality of the board.

In that case, the v60 is a well built nice board. The plastic case is pretty solid.

It'll be thrown in some alu 60% case, not sure yet, but that is good to hear

The mounts on the original plate are different than normal 60% plates, so good luck. I dont believe it was meant to be put in another case. I would show pics of what I mean, but I leant it to alienman to try it out.

If I remember correctly, it works, you just cannot use all 5-6 screws, you have to leave out a few.

Ill have to look. there are studs on the plate which are meant to be screwed into from the bottom of the case, unlike any other60% design. I have the original pcb at home, I can check if there are normal mounting holes in it or just the original ones.

[Hypersphere]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Here is what I did with one of my V60 boards with Matias Click switches:



After hybridizing the switches, I put on dye-sub PBT alphanumeric caps from an IBM 5140:



The hybrid "MatiaBlue" switches have the Matias Click housings, but the sliders, return springs, and click leaves are Blue Alps.

Here is a video with sound comparisons to an identical V60 with Matias Click switches:

The hybridized switches have taken on some of the characteristics of Blue Alps. They are lighter and quieter than Matias Clicks. The procedure is tedious, but with the V60, it might be easier than desoldering the stock switches and soldering iin the new switches.

I have also tried putting a V60MTS-C into a TEX aluminum case, but it ruined the sound. In the aluminum case, the switches lost the resonant sounding board of the hollow plastic and ended up sounding like Cherry blues. I also tried the aluminum case with the "MatiaBlue" switches -- same result. The aluminum case looks nice, but it spoils the sound.

BTW, older V60MTS boards only have one hole for mounting in a standard 60% aluminum case. Newer ones have 3 holes, which seems sufficient, but again, I did not like the effect the aluminum case had on the sound of the keyboard.

The red Esc keys from SP look fine to me on the V60 in its stock case -- it is difficult to notice the difference in profile:

[Mattr567]

I have Green Alps in my V60 and it pings a ton

[Hypersphere]

My V60 with MatiaBlues don't ping at all. However, I have a Z-150 with green Alps that pings. Is there something intrinsic to green Alps switches that causes them to ping?

[HPE1000]

Anyone have any opinions on just buying a V60 and swapping in my green alps?

Here is what I did with one of my V60 boards with Matias Click switches:

(Attachment Link)

After hybridizing the switches, I put on dye-sub PBT alphanumeric caps from an IBM 5140:

(Attachment Link)

The hybrid "MatiaBlue" switches have the Matias Click housings, but the sliders, return springs, and click leaves are Blue Alps.

Here is a video with sound comparisons to an identical V60 with Matias Click switches:

The hybridized switches have taken on some of the characteristics of Blue Alps. They are lighter and quieter than Matias Clicks. The procedure is tedious, but with the V60, it might be easier than desoldering the stock switches and soldering iin the new switches.

I have also tried putting a V60MTS-C into a TEX aluminum case, but it ruined the sound. In the aluminum case, the switches lost the resonant sounding board of the hollow plastic and ended up sounding like Cherry blues. I also tried the aluminum case with the "MatiaBlue" switches -- same result. The aluminum case looks nice, but it spoils the sound.

BTW, older V60MTS boards only have one hole for mounting in a standard 60% aluminum case. Newer ones have 3 holes, which seems sufficient, but again, I did not like the effect the aluminum case had on the sound of the keyboard.

The red Esc keys from SP look fine to me on the V60 in its stock case -- it is difficult to notice the difference in profile:

(Attachment Link)

Wow that is pretty cool, that might actually work as well. I could test a few switches first and if it seems fine I could just go that route.

As it stands, if I were go to that route, I am trying to decide which v60 is the better choice to make. Do I get a matias linear, or a do I get the white fukka (lol) switches?

Are there any major differences in these switches, and their housings that would make one better over the other if I were to just swap the internals.

[Hypersphere]

My V60 was with Matias Click switches. The MatiaBlue mod should work starting with Matias Quiet switches as well. I am not sure about Matias Quiet Linear or Fukka switches.

BTW, I am thinking of an alternative name for the hybrid switch, such as "Matiblu" (inspired by Malibu).

[HPE1000]

My V60 was with Matias Click switches. The MatiaBlue mod should work starting with Matias Quiet switches as well. I am not sure about Matias Quiet Linear or Fukka switches.

BTW, I am thinking of an alternative name for the hybrid switch, such as "Matiblu" (inspired by Malibu).

Matiblu sounds better

So correct me if I am wrong, the only difference between simplified and complicated alps lies in the leaf mechanism, but the slider is the same between them and therefore is interchangeable between SKCL and SKBL. Right?

[MandrewDavis]

I am looking to buy an ultrasonic cleaner to restore a few of my boards. Any recommendations or things that I should look out for?

Don't want to remove the dry lube on some of them, but they are already scratchy. If the tops themselves aren't already shot, I may experiment with some Molybdenum Disulfide on them. Worth it to lube the springs?

My Alps switches by condition:
Blue • NOS, No need to clean
Amber, Brown, Orange • Very Good, No need to clean
Ivory, Green • Mostly Good
Yellow • Expecting to be Sub-par
Salmon (may no keep) • Awful

Also, any considerable difference in SKCL Yellow and SKCL Green tops? Probably going to swap them.

[Norman_the_Owl]

I am looking to buy an ultrasonic cleaner to restore a few of my boards. Any recommendations or things that I should look out for?

Don't want to remove the dry lube on some of them, but they are already scratchy. If the tops themselves aren't already shot, I may experiment with some Molybdenum Disulfide on them. Worth it to lube the springs?

My Alps switches by condition:
Blue • NOS, No need to clean
Amber, Brown, Orange • Very Good, No need to clean
Ivory, Green • Mostly Good
Yellow • Expecting to be Sub-par
Salmon (may no keep) • Awful

Also, any considerable difference in SKCL Yellow and SKCL Green tops? Probably going to swap them.

This one, or the ones that look like it, are the budget recommendation

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Stainless-Steel-2-L-Liter-Industry-Heated-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Digital-w-Timer-/121910309568?hash=item1c626bb2c0:g:PQoAAOSw8gVX8Hkt

Big enough to fit a whole batch of caps in one go, not that that really matters.

[Hypersphere]

@HPE1000: I agree -- Matiblu sounds better. Regarding differences between complicated and simplified Alps, my understanding is that the main difference is in the switchplates, which include the contact leaves. For more information, take a look at the DT Wiki:

https://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_serieshttps://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCL/SKCM_series

Sliders can be interchangeable, but sliders in linear Alps are the same when rotated 180 degrees, whereas sliders in non-linear Alps are not rotationally symmetrical -- they have a notch on the side that faces the switchplate.

MandrewDavis: I've had good luck with the iSonic P48200-WPB:

https://www.amazon.com/iSonic%C2%AE-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-P4820-WPB/dp/B009BC4S0G/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1478646921&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=isonic+p4820

I've lubed some of my Alps switches. I use Superlube 51010 oil applied sparingly with a small paintbrush only to the slide rails in the top housing. I don't lube the springs except partially and indirectly -- in order to keep the spring in place when reassembling the switch, I put a small dab of Superlube grease on the spring post in the slider.

[Mattr567]

Imo mixing SKCM Blue (or any non common Alps switch) with Matias is morally wrong.

[Hypersphere]

Imo mixing SKCM Blue (or any non common Alps switch) with Matias is morally wrong.

[menuhin]

Perhaps I'm reading this thread too often - a SGI Granite is on its way to me.
Still undecided if I should restore it, modify it (e.g. teensy), or dismantle it.

I guess I won't stand a full-size keyboard for too long: my desk space at home is quite crammed - keyboard+mouse pad of 55cm width and as I would have to force the mouse outside the pad hitting the laptop dock. Bringing this nice toy to my office is also not a good idea as I'm quite junior there: with such a high profile and obvious sign of distraction from work, I will have even more pressure from my boss.

I love the SGI Granite, even for the models with non-working connections (PCB & cable), I don't want to slaughter them.
If I keep it or resell it as a whole piece, then I need another board for the Alps switches and the alphanumeric caps. 

[menuhin]

Imo mixing SKCM Blue (or any non common Alps switch) with Matias is morally wrong.

Hypersphere committed many things: the sodomy between SKCM Blue and Matias, and the murder of an IBM 5140 above.

[Mattr567]

Wat this?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/sop/5862639081.html

[alienman82]

removed.

[sncbraxsc2]

Wat this?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/sop/5862639081.html

kinda looks like a Focus 2001 clone

kinda, like this?

https://deskthority.net/wiki/Tai-Hao_TH-5539

Could have some nice switches!

[E3E]

Wat this?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/sop/5862639081.html

APC is a Tai Hao rebrand so it might have Tai Hao Aruz. Other than that, I doubt it has anything else of much worth. Caps are Tai Hao standard doubleshots.

It could also have APC clones or possibly white Alps. Very slim chance of blue Alps, but I doubt it.

[drevyek]

The Granite case is awesome. IMO it's begging for a cut-down mod. I was reeeaally close to doing one myself, but I instead went with cutting down the plate to a standard 60% with an Alps64 PCB. The standard PCB for it was too much of a hassle for me to deal with. The plate however is great- winkeyless and stepped caps, and very thick and weighty. It came out well, and would recommend it highly as a fun project.

I'd say to do what I did (60%), or to buy a TKL PCB and cut it down to that. The full size is nice, yeah, and worth preserving in its glory, but not if it's just going to languish. Better to use it than keep it cooped up.

[menuhin]

The Granite case is awesome. IMO it's begging for a cut-down mod. I was reeeaally close to doing one myself, but I instead went with cutting down the plate to a standard 60% with an Alps64 PCB. The standard PCB for it was too much of a hassle for me to deal with. The plate however is great- winkeyless and stepped caps, and very thick and weighty. It came out well, and would recommend it highly as a fun project.

I'd say to do what I did (60%), or to buy a TKL PCB and cut it down to that. The full size is nice, yeah, and worth preserving in its glory, but not if it's just going to languish. Better to use it than keep it cooped up.

Can such mod be done? Cutting it to a 60% seems challenging, would love to see an example like that. 

[drevyek]

The Granite case is awesome. IMO it's begging for a cut-down mod. I was reeeaally close to doing one myself, but I instead went with cutting down the plate to a standard 60% with an Alps64 PCB. The standard PCB for it was too much of a hassle for me to deal with. The plate however is great- winkeyless and stepped caps, and very thick and weighty. It came out well, and would recommend it highly as a fun project.

I'd say to do what I did (60%), or to buy a TKL PCB and cut it down to that. The full size is nice, yeah, and worth preserving in its glory, but not if it's just going to languish. Better to use it than keep it cooped up.

Can such mod be done? Cutting it to a 60% seems challenging, would love to see an example like that. 

Not sure about what PCB would fit in, but I had mapped out the cut-lines on my Granite case that would accommodate a TKL or "60 + Fn" layout. It's a bit of creative cutting, but you can work your way around cutting out anything important (including the label). I would only try it if I had access to a dremel, which I (at the moment) do not. The PCB to use, not sure. It'd probably need to add in aftermarket supports to fit into a standard PCB, like a B.87 or similar.

[menuhin]

The Granite case is awesome. IMO it's begging for a cut-down mod. I was reeeaally close to doing one myself, but I instead went with cutting down the plate to a standard 60% with an Alps64 PCB. The standard PCB for it was too much of a hassle for me to deal with. The plate however is great- winkeyless and stepped caps, and very thick and weighty. It came out well, and would recommend it highly as a fun project.

I'd say to do what I did (60%), or to buy a TKL PCB and cut it down to that. The full size is nice, yeah, and worth preserving in its glory, but not if it's just going to languish. Better to use it than keep it cooped up.

Can such mod be done? Cutting it to a 60% seems challenging, would love to see an example like that. 

Not sure about what PCB would fit in, but I had mapped out the cut-lines on my Granite case that would accommodate a TKL or "60 + Fn" layout. It's a bit of creative cutting, but you can work your way around cutting out anything important (including the label). I would only try it if I had access to a dremel, which I (at the moment) do not. The PCB to use, not sure. It'd probably need to add in aftermarket supports to fit into a standard PCB, like a B.87 or similar.

I really hesitate to try to cut if if my chop-job is not as good as theirs the BS gang:


The second one (or both) might be a shop-job instead.

[menuhin]

Read about the great project by E3E on a hot-swappable Duck Eagle PCB based Alps board.
And then I realized there are only a handful of PCB offerings for Alps switches, not to mention the possibility of plates and cases.

What will be the possibility to build a 75% Alps board completed with case and key set?
Do I have to source for Korea's Duck0113 again?

[E3E]

Read about the great project by E3E on a hot-swappable Duck Eagle PCB based Alps board.
And then I realized there are only a handful of PCB offerings for Alps switches, not to mention the possibility of plates and cases.

What will be the possibility to build a 75% Alps board completed with case and key set?
Do I have to source for Korea's Duck0113 again?

Unfortunately, we still have no offerings for 75% Alps keyboards. It's been something I've been looking out for for a while, but alas, nothing so far. The closest thing to an Alps 75% we have is the VE.A.

[alienman82]

removed.

[E3E]

the octagon 1 doesn't support alps?

Nope. It was rumored to before it went into GB, but Duck didn't design the PCB to be MXAlps. The last of his PCBs to have that feature were from the Duck Eagle/Viper v1 and the Lightpad.

[menuhin]

Read about the great project by E3E on a hot-swappable Duck Eagle PCB based Alps board.
And then I realized there are only a handful of PCB offerings for Alps switches, not to mention the possibility of plates and cases.

What will be the possibility to build a 75% Alps board completed with case and key set?
Do I have to source for Korea's Duck0113 again?

Unfortunately, we still have no offerings for 75% Alps keyboards. It's been something I've been looking out for for a while, but alas, nothing so far. The closest thing to an Alps 75% we have is the VE.A.

Your building log is an asset to GH for Alps beginners.
Please keep us posted as I may miss details of many IC / GB out there.

After I've harvested enough Alps switches from the great boards of the old days, I want to build a 75% hot-swappable as 75% is my most comfortable layout, coming from a ThinkPad. Will definitely build a 60% for sure - I have been thinking about Alps64 PCB by Hasu but I really hope he can add LED support to the board soon, Hasu's probably super busy with many things though.