Best lube for Blue Alps?

[snarfarlarkus]

Which lube should I use to lube my blue alps switches? And also, how much should I use? Cheers

[TheO-RingGuys]

I'm very interested in hearing what people have to say in regards to this issue. I've been wondering the same!

[CPTBadAss]

Why would you lube them? It would diminish the click on most cases. As far as I can tell, Alps switches use some kind of powder or dry lube. Not sure exactly though. Anything that we have in the normal lube inventory would probably just make the switch less clicky.

Honestly, I feel they're perfect as is.

[snarfarlarkus]

Why would you lube them? It would diminish the click on most cases. As far as I can tell, Alps switches use some kind of powder or dry lube. Not sure exactly though. Anything that we have in the normal lube inventory would probably just make the switch less clicky.

Honestly, I feel they're perfect as is.

Hm... Mine feel scratchy, almost as if the click is slowly dimishing?

[elton5354]

Want to sell me your blue Alps?

[hasu]

I'd say RO-59, though, I've never tried it on Blue.
I've used it on Topre and Alps and  had no complain but I don't know how good in fact because I have no experience with other lubes.

[Altis]

Why would you lube them? It would diminish the click on most cases. As far as I can tell, Alps switches use some kind of powder or dry lube. Not sure exactly though. Anything that we have in the normal lube inventory would probably just make the switch less clicky.

Honestly, I feel they're perfect as is.

It shouldn't affect the click at all on Alps boards.

Just make sure not to lubricate the long edges since one of the long edges will be where the switch contactors are, and if it gets in there the switch won't register properly.

Best bet it to apply lubricant to the sides of the switch only. That's where most of the friction is and it won't affect the switch.

[CPTBadAss]

You think so altis? I should give it a try. I forget that the mechanism for clicking in alps is different from cherry but I wonder if lubing just the ends will help.

@OP why don't you try opening them up and cleaning them first?

[Altis]

You think so altis? I should give it a try. I forget that the mechanism for clicking in alps is different from cherry but I wonder if lubing just the ends will help.

@OP why don't you try opening them up and cleaning them first?

From what I can tell, the clicker piece is along one of the long edges while the switchplate is along the other long edge.

There shouldn't be any issue from lubricating the short sides, though it would help to get the switch apart to get the bottom half of the short sides as they are wider at the bottom.

It should make a difference since it's the sides that guide the switch stem up and down.

[nubbinator]

If you need dry lube, try molybdenum disulfide.  There's some cheap on etsy that I've tried.  I still need to do my lube review, but I've been pretty impressed with it.  A little goes a long way with it.  It's also non-conductive and shouldn't damage the plastic (there are actually several plastic "alloys" that have it in their formulation for lubrication purposes.

I've been unimpressed with RO-59 and it requires an oven cure to work properly.

[hasu]

I prefer dry lube, I just tried only Krytox GPL105 but I don't feel like apply it on my Alps and Topre at least. It droped down to bottom in the end or doesn't stay on Topre plunger.

You can cure RO-59 at room temp for day and night, I usually dry them only for a few hours before assembly.

EDIT: Not that I recommend to take the trouble to get RO-59. I doubt its cost vs performance and believe reasonable and better options here and there.

[Bucake]

any thoughts on krytox 205 on green SKCL Alps..?
or even someone with experience with this combo?
because i'll probably try it unless someone thinks it's redundant or even a downgrade.

[nubbinator]

I'm not a huge fan of wet lubes for Alps.  Alps let stuff in more easily than MX switches, so they feel good at first but will start to feel worse over time.  A good dry lube, like molybdenum disulfide, applied very sparingly will feel good and is pretty damn cheap.

If you have Krytox on hand, feel free to use it, but I wouldn't in the long term.

[CPTBadAss]

I was thinking a dry lube would be better as well nubbinator. Maybe I should pick some up to try out. But I haven't felt the need to lube my Alps and I think they might not be so good with wet lubes.

[pr0ximity]

Will definitely clean them out and look into dry lubing. What about the Alps design lets more dust in than say, Cherry? While the pieces look different and the clicky mechanisms are different, they seem very similar: a box with a spring that pushes a plastic stem out through a hole.

[ideus]

@nubbi, A lubricating guide would rock.

[chyros]

Will definitely clean them out and look into dry lubing. What about the Alps design lets more dust in than say, Cherry? While the pieces look different and the clicky mechanisms are different, they seem very similar: a box with a spring that pushes a plastic stem out through a hole.

The hole must have larger tolerances.

Note that the lube thing is only relevant on first-gen Alps, later generation were made without lube, presumably because they used a different plastic that doesn't require it as much (POM?).

[bocahgundul]

What is with the curing process? Haven't heard any of that in lubing process.

[pr0ximity]

What is with the curing process? Haven't heard any of that in lubing process.

Different dry lubes have different processes, but most have to cure.

[bocahgundul]

What is with the curing process? Haven't heard any of that in lubing process.

Different dry lubes have different processes, but most have to cure.

non dry lube dont need it right?

[pr0ximity]

What is with the curing process? Haven't heard any of that in lubing process.

Different dry lubes have different processes, but most have to cure.

non dry lube dont need it right?

Not that I've heard for the common keyboard lubes, but obviously there are a billion lube options out there so who knows.

[nubbinator]

What is with the curing process? Haven't heard any of that in lubing process.

Different dry lubes have different processes, but most have to cure.

Dry lubes only have to cure if they're in a suspension or have additives that require a cure tube.  Graphite and MoS2 powder do not need to cure. 

[MeltingTeeth]

I'd say RO-59, though, I've never tried it on Blue.
I've used it on Topre and Alps and  had no complain but I don't know how good in fact because I have no experience with other lubes.

R0-59 has to cure, right?

[nubbinator]

I'd say RO-59, though, I've never tried it on Blue.
I've used it on Topre and Alps and  had no complain but I don't know how good in fact because I have no experience with other lubes.

R0-59 has to cure, right?

Yes, RO-59 is in a suspension and I believe it has a binding agent.

[Sick Robotron]

I was thinking a dry lube would be better as well nubbinator. Maybe I should pick some up to try out. But I haven't felt the need to lube my Alps and I think they might not be so good with wet lubes.

How do you apply this stuff to the Alps slider? I have never used a powder lubricant before, so any advice is much appreciated!!