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Hey everyone,
We recently had a small discussion about bikes in a different thread, and I was suprised by all of the people that like to bike, so I thought I would make a thread to discuss all things bike related!
Please keep it clean and fairly on-topic. :cool:
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I will start us off!
Here is my primary bike, a Trek Remedy 9 27.5:
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11105221/p4pb11105221.jpg)
I also own a Trek 1.2 that I use for general getting around/commuting to work/occasional road ride.. The perks of working at a bike shop.. :p
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Nice !
I am big on cycling as well. During this time a year, I do about 200 km a week on my roadbike (typically 4 x 50 km).
I was also recently introduced to MTB and going over trails and such. I have not had a lot of experience with that yet, but it has been pretty cool so far. Been to 2 different countries to do some tracks but I pretty much suck at it (it has pretty much nothing to do with the roadbike in terms of technique, though the leg strength does help).
I own 4 different bikes.
-One winter/city roadbike that is a Trek (Tiagra groupset, aluminium frame). I use this for all kinds of things.
-One training roadbike that is a Koga miyata (Ultegra groupset, carbon frame). This one I only use for fast rides (I never leave it anywhere. This thing is my baby).
-One old school Koga Miyata roabike (steel) from 1986. The cool thing is that it has all the original parts (except for those that wear and have to be replaced), and there is barely a scratch on the original paint. It is a cool bright blue that really stands out (looks like it could have been painted yesterday).
-One crummy crap bike that I leave in front of bars and at the train station overnight. This is the "I wont care if it gets stolen" bike. (though it is my second-most used one :()
I am planning on buying a MTB as well. I have been renting them and that gets pretty expensive fast. The sooner I buy one for myself the better.
But that is not all. Of course there are different wheels, different kinds of equipment you can buy and so on. As a money sink I find cycling far worse than keyboards. "How far down does the rabbit hole go?" is a question that you start asking yourself there as well. It happens around that time when you are about to order two carbon waterbottles for $50 each...
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Nice !
I am big on cycling as well. During this time a year, I do about 200 km a week on my roadbike (typically 4 x 50 km).
I was also recently introduced to MTB and going over trails and such. I have not had a lot of experience with that yet, but it has been pretty cool so far. Been to 2 different countries to do some tracks but I pretty much suck at it (it has pretty much nothing to do with the roadbike in terms of technique, though the leg strength does help).
I own 4 different bikes.
-One winter/city roadbike that is a Trek (Tiagra groupset, aluminium frame). I use this for all kinds of things.
-One training roadbike that is a Koga miyata (Ultegra groupset, carbon frams). This one I only use for fast rides (I never leave it anywhere).
-One old school Koga Miyata roabike (steel) from 1986. The cool thing is that it has all the original parts (except for those that wear and have to be replaced), and there is barely a scratch on the original paint. It is a cool bright blue that really stands out (looks like it could have been painted yesterday).
-One crummy crap bike that I leave in front of bars and at the train station overnight. This is the "I wont care if it gets stolen" bike. (though it is my second-most used one :()
Nice! That is a good amount of Kms! I do about 100 a week just riding to work and back, and usually 2 mtb rides per week as well.
I know where you come from, getting into mountain biking can be tough, and expensive! :p
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It is expensive, and we have a severe lack of hills. I am lucky that there is a mountainbike trail pretty close to my house. Most of it is black diamond difficulty, but it is still pretty boring (not a very large area).
I do not do 200 km a week all thoughout the year. Though I do keep cycling when a lot of people consider the "season" to be over. There are 3 things that will keep me inside: Rain, ice, and extreme wind. The last two rarely happen. But during some seasons, rain is a real pain in the ass over here. Sometimes you have to literally go looking for those 2-3 hours when there is no rain to get a ride in.
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It is expensive, and we have a severe lack of hills. I am lucky that there is a mountainbike trail pretty close to my house. Most of it is black diamond difficulty, but it is still pretty boring (not a very large area).
I do not do 200 km a week all thoughout the year. Though I do keep cycling when a lot of people consider the "season" to be over. There are 3 things that will keep me inside: Rain, ice, and extreme wind. The last two rarely happen. But during some seasons, rain is a real pain in the ass over here. Sometimes you have to literally go looking for those 2-3 hours when there is no rain to get a ride in.
I am lucky in that regards.. I live in Vancouver, home to the best mountain biking in the world! Or some of it at least..
Yeah unfortunately for 2 thirds of the year I am stuck in Uni where I don't get to ride as much, and here you have to just ride in the rain or you will never get out! :(
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oh man now I have to take pictures of mine.
I have a road bike that I've built up out of parts. The frame is a Fuji Team Pro. Unlike most people, I oped for bar-end shifters.
My MTN bike started off life as an 4500, but the frame was replaced with an 8900 frame. I've been replacing things on it, so only the handlebar, shifter and wheelset is original. Sadly, I need to add a spacer to the bottom bracket (or swap my e type derailler back in) and set-up the front shifter again 'cause it's all indexed wrong. Needs a little work for sure.
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oh man now I have to take pictures of mine.
I have a road bike that I've built up out of parts. The frame is a Fuji Team Pro. Unlike most people, I oped for bar-end shifters.
My MTN bike started off life as an 4500, but the frame was replaced with an 8900 frame. I've been replacing things on it, so only the handlebar, shifter and wheelset is original. Sadly, I need to add a spacer to the bottom bracket (or swap my e type derailler back in) and set-up the front shifter again 'cause it's all indexed wrong. Needs a little work for sure.
Nice! Bar-end shifters are unique. I had the privilege of riding a Trek 520, the steel touring bike with bar-end shifters, and I quite liked it. Not as practical for in-city rides in my opinion, but when I got it out into the open they were very nice!
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They also don't break, are easy to set up and adjust, and you can get dura-ace for under $30 pretty easily. Brifters are like $200 :o
I've never had any issue with them, I commuted ~2500 miles/year for a few years and now I do longer rides.
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They also don't break, are easy to set up and adjust, and you can get dura-ace for under $30 pretty easily. Brifters are like $200 :o
I've never had any issue with them, I commuted ~2500 miles/year for a few years and now I do longer rides.
Those all sounds like good reasons to me! Lets see some pictures when you get a chance.. :p
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So I attempted to patch a tube today...
Expectation:
[attach=1]
Reality:
[attach=2]
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It is all about those parktool sticker patches... Or tubeless. :cool:
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So I attempted to patch a tube today...
Expectation:
(Attachment Link)
Reality:
(Attachment Link)
Oh my, what happened? \
I patch a lot of tubes each year. I replace the tube with a spare on the road, and take the punctured one home. When I have about 3 or 4 I patch them in one go.
In english they call it a "glue" but it really isn't. You only need to use a little bit, wait for it to dry, and that is when you press the patch against it and hold it for 3 seconds.
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i don't really like to ride a bike, i just use it as a transport.
rode at least 270km each week when living in moscow, and ~60km now.
that's my current bike:
(http://photos-b.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xap1/10354491_563721797069953_583376000_n.jpg)
(http://photos-d.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xpf1/10299854_1413489382266403_270739877_n.jpg)
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So I attempted to patch a tube today...
Expectation:
(Attachment Link)
Reality:
(Attachment Link)
Oh my, what happened? \
I patch a lot of tubes each year. I replace the tube with a spare on the road, and take the punctured one home. When I have about 3 or 4 I patch them in one go.
In english they call it a "glue" but it really isn't. You only need to use a little bit, wait for it to dry, and that is when you press the patch against it and hold it for 3 seconds.
The rubber cement in the patch kit had turned to the consistency of chewed bubble gum so I thought I'd use a super glue and Gorilla glue combo. I neglected to realize in the moment that Gorilla glue hardens, and doesn't at all expand. Guess there's a reason they use rubber cement.
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i've feasted my eyes on a real pretty bike
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So I attempted to patch a tube today...
Expectation:
(Attachment Link)
Reality:
(Attachment Link)
Oh my, what happened? \
I patch a lot of tubes each year. I replace the tube with a spare on the road, and take the punctured one home. When I have about 3 or 4 I patch them in one go.
In english they call it a "glue" but it really isn't. You only need to use a little bit, wait for it to dry, and that is when you press the patch against it and hold it for 3 seconds.
The rubber cement in the patch kit had turned to the consistency of chewed bubble gum so I thought I'd use a super glue and Gorilla glue combo. I neglected to realize in the moment that Gorilla glue hardens, and doesn't at all expand. Guess there's a reason they use rubber cement.
XD I am sure you are not the first to make this mistake. Oh well. Lesson learned. Fortunately tubes are cheap :D.
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Hi Byker, gotta bump this thread.
Picking up my first bike tomorrow morning (actually in 8 hours!)
Happy to finally own a bike again after nearly 15 years, and excited about the experiences that will follow!
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Hi Byker, gotta bump this thread.
Picking up my first bike tomorrow morning (actually in 8 hours!)
Happy to finally own a bike again after nearly 15 years, and excited about the experiences that will follow!
Yay Karura! I am excited to see your bike! The pictures you showed me look great! :)
This thread definitely needed a bump.. Recently I have been riding my road bike a lot. The mountain bike is lonely.. Haven;t had much time to ride it with all the stuff going on in my life!
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i am looking forward to moving back to the west coast.
i think i need a week long ride through the san juan islands.
maybe up toward nanaimo also
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i am looking forward to moving back to the west coast.
i think i need a week long ride through the san juan islands.
maybe up toward nanaimo also
West coast riding is where its at! I love riding an Vancouver Island. Have you ever ridden on the Sunshine Coast? Excellent riding for both road and mountain bikes! :)
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
What temperature constitutes "bike season"
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
What temperature constitutes "bike season"
For me bike season is >40 degrees Fahrenheit
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
What temperature constitutes "bike season"
Considering it barely goes below zero celsius in Vancouver, every season bike season for Karura and I! :)
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Nice thread. :) I have to remember to post my bike here and update when I get a new bike later this year.
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i like the UK. i don't have to have a winter bike here.
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
What temperature constitutes "bike season"
Considering it barely goes below zero celsius in Vancouver, every season bike season for Karura and I! :)
In Minneapolis, every season was bike season as well. :))
Also, biker thread created by byker. That's fitting. :)
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
What temperature constitutes "bike season"
For me bike season is >40 degrees Fahrenheit
I remember there was alot of sweating.. how do you get around without being smelly all day.
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
What temperature constitutes "bike season"
For me bike season is >40 degrees Fahrenheit
I remember there was alot of sweating.. how do you get around without being smelly all day.
I personally only bike on the weekends. We will go to a trail, go 40-50 miles, and go home.
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I own an awesome carbon fiber headphone stand!
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Here's my road-bike. Built it up over a bit, and updated frequently though I haven't changed it in a year or so. Fuji Team Pro frame, Mostly Tiagra groupset. Mavic Ksyrium front wheel Mavic Aksium rear wheel (I got a campy rear wheel so I could use a campy cassette) Weight is about 16 lbs though I'm not really worried about it as long as it's under 20. It is very fast, especially after I flipped the stem over.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8831/18011902208_a10c36eb6c_c.jpg)
More pictures here (https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157653185463789)
This picture is a little old. Also, as it currently is, I need to replace the shifter cables, re-tape the bars, replace the front derailleur, change the stem, and finish adjusting the handlebar angle and brake lever locations.
I don't like Brifters. That's why I'm uisng dura-ace barcons. They make life easy, never fail, and are simple to adjust. I've probably put about 5000-6000 miles on this frame. I replace the paper towel on the rear chainstay every few months. I have to keep it there so when I bunnyhop over potholes on the road, the chain doesn't damage the carbon. I'll eventually get something nicer but it's not a priority.
Mountain bike is still very much a WIP (so no picture yet). It's a Trek 8900 frame, Marzocci AM2 fork. It needs the following:
Seat
seatpost
rear brake
wheelset
shifter and brake cable
I also want to get a new crankset and BB since I don't like the one I have (though it's not bad, i just don't like it)
There isn't too much left that's original other than the pedals handlebar, stem and shifters (I have even replaced the frame).
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Double post.
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Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
What temperature constitutes "bike season"
For me bike season is >40 degrees Fahrenheit
I remember there was alot of sweating.. how do you get around without being smelly all day.
Wear better clothing. Cotton will smell but wear thin merino like Icebreaker or silk and you won't smell a thing.
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I own an awesome carbon fiber headphone stand!
I recall seeing pictures of your road bike before! Lets see it! :) You'd better be riding it still, even after you got that fancy car.
Here's my road-bike. Built it up over a bit, and updated frequently though I haven't changed it in a year or so. Fuji Team Pro frame, Mostly Tiagra groupset. Mavic Ksyrium front wheel Mavic Aksium rear wheel (I got a campy rear wheel so I could use a campy cassette) Weight is about 16 lbs though I'm not really worried about it as long as it's under 20. It is very fast, especially after I flipped the stem over.
More pictures here (https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157653185463789)
This picture is a little old. Also, as it currently is, I need to replace the shifter cables, re-tape the bars, replace the front derailleur, change the stem, and finish adjusting the handlebar angle and brake lever locations.
I don't like Brifters. That's why I'm uisng dura-ace barcons. They make life easy, never fail, and are simple to adjust. I've probably put about 5000-6000 miles on this frame. I replace the paper towel on the rear chainstay every few months. I have to keep it there so when I bunnyhop over potholes on the road, the chain doesn't damage the carbon. I'll eventually get something nicer but it's not a priority.
Mountain bike is still very much a WIP (so no picture yet). It's a Trek 8900 frame, Marzocci AM2 fork. It needs the following:
Seat
seatpost
rear brake
wheelset
shifter and brake cable
I also want to get a new crankset and BB since I don't like the one I have (though it's not bad, i just don't like it)
There isn't too much left that's original other than the pedals handlebar, stem and shifters (I have even replaced the frame).
Road bike is looking good there dv! I love seeing custom built bikes.You should try 3M tape (the clear sticky stuff that comes in sheets) for your chain stay. :)
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I'll take pics of it when I get home. And I have not. Little bit of laziness, little bit of busy-ness. But mostly laziness.
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Road bike is looking good there dv! I love seeing custom built bikes.You should try 3M tape (the clear sticky stuff that comes in sheets) for your chain stay. :)
OOh good idea.
I want to go biking more. I want permission to keep it inside at work (I work at a mall and am *not* going to leave that outside the front doors for everyone to steal) so I can commute with it. Nowadays I'm too lazy to get up at 4:00AM for a bide ride, so I mainly just ride it around on my day off or with a group on the weekend.
The bad part about DIY Bikes is that they're never "done". it's 100% rideable now but there's a few things I want to tweak, change or upgrade. I think there always will be.
Im also glad I found a use for that broken PSU: makes a good bike prop!
Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
I was thinking about building up a cross bike for commuting. How's yours treating you? My other option is to build up something vintage and make it "look" bad but actually be good. if I go singlespeed on it, I want to try the old track trick and lace a mountain front hub to a road rim and drill holes in the gear, and bolt it onto the disk-brake mount. Simple, effective, and overkill: just the way I like it!
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Road bike is looking good there dv! I love seeing custom built bikes.You should try 3M tape (the clear sticky stuff that comes in sheets) for your chain stay. :)
OOh good idea.
I want to go biking more. I want permission to keep it inside at work (I work at a mall and am *not* going to leave that outside the front doors for everyone to steal) so I can commute with it. Nowadays I'm too lazy to get up at 4:00AM for a bide ride, so I mainly just ride it around on my day off or with a group on the weekend.
The bad part about DIY Bikes is that they're never "done". it's 100% rideable now but there's a few things I want to tweak, change or upgrade. I think there always will be.
Im also glad I found a use for that broken PSU: makes a good bike prop!
Yeah weather is getting so much better, bike season soon (or already)!
Just picked this up today!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/X0ujgR9.jpg)
I was thinking about building up a cross bike for commuting. How's yours treating you? My other option is to build up something vintage and make it "look" bad but actually be good. if I go singlespeed on it, I want to try the old track trick and lace a mountain front hub to a road rim and drill holes in the gear, and bolt it onto the disk-brake mount. Simple, effective, and overkill: just the way I like it!
I work in a bike shop parttime so I get to ride my bike in :) I completely follow you on the DIY bikes, I have had a few myself!
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my front wheel has dura-ace hub and campa rim. DIY at its best.
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I used to go single track riding almost every weekend. I miss it a lot. I want to get back into it this summer once I finish this last class.
My beat up Gary Fisher 29er. It's from 2005, bought it on sale at a bike shop in Alaska. It's too big for me and not uberleet awesome but I love it.
byker, what would you recommend for a 5'9 female beginner? My wife wants to get a bike and start going, budget under $1,000 or so. If there is a good used model you recommend I can start hunting, or look new, really haven't researched bikes in years.
Also looking for a way to get them around. Either crossbars for a 2015 Golf Sportwagen with whatever the hell else we need, or a hitch mount. I haven't had the time to research.
(http://i.imgur.com/DgHEiG7.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/D8SLn47.jpg)
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All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
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I own an awesome carbon fiber headphone stand!
Can it do wheelies?
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I used to go single track riding almost every weekend. I miss it a lot. I want to get back into it this summer once I finish this last class.
My beat up Gary Fisher 29er. It's from 2005, bought it on sale at a bike shop in Alaska. It's too big for me and not uberleet awesome but I love it.
byker, what would you recommend for a 5'9 female beginner? My wife wants to get a bike and start going, budget under $1,000 or so. If there is a good used model you recommend I can start hunting, or look new, really haven't researched bikes in years.
Also looking for a way to get them around. Either crossbars for a 2015 Golf Sportwagen with whatever the hell else we need, or a hitch mount. I haven't had the time to research.
Hey man, nice bike! :)
In regards to your wife, I would look at something similar to what you have, ideally a 29er hardtail. If you feel comfortable with buying second hand, you can definitely save some money, but i would only recommend that if you are willing to ensure the bike is in good condition and do some bike maintenance yourself. If you don't have time or would prefer just to get it fixed at a shop all the time, I would go new. You can't really go wrong with any of the bigger brands, personally we sell Trek and Cannonade at my shop, and both are high quality. If you want, feel free to pm me some bikes you have in mind and I can be more specific!
For bike racks, in my personal experience, a hitch rack is the way to go!
All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
Unfortunately any bike that is $120 assembled will be rather heavy and low quality. You could definitely fix it yourself if you are determined.. Youtube has a lot of good videos that can teach you how to tune a brake. Then you just need to pay for the parts! :) :) :)
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Glad this thread got bumped, I just picked up a new (used) bike last week. I'll post pictures tomorrow :)
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good bike weather!? HA!
im always on my bike, even when there is ice on the roads.
made a custom slick with studs on it
"i can has ride any time, any place!"
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It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
DH bikes can weight 40 lbs easily. My MTB is pretty heavy but it can take a beating. Your bike isnt a real MTB because it can't take a beating. How they make those things heavy and fragile is a miracle or mediacrity
I used to go single track riding almost every weekend. I miss it a lot. I want to get back into it this summer once I finish this last class.
My beat up Gary Fisher 29er. It's from 2005, bought it on sale at a bike shop in Alaska. It's too big for me and not uberleet awesome but I love it.
byker, what would you recommend for a 5'9 female beginner? My wife wants to get a bike and start going, budget under $1,000 or so. If there is a good used model you recommend I can start hunting, or look new, really haven't researched bikes in years.
Also looking for a way to get them around. Either crossbars for a 2015 Golf Sportwagen with whatever the hell else we need, or a hitch mount. I haven't had the time to research.
Hey man, nice bike! :)
In regards to your wife, I would look at something similar to what you have, ideally a 29er hardtail. If you feel comfortable with buying second hand, you can definitely save some money, but i would only recommend that if you are willing to ensure the bike is in good condition and do some bike maintenance yourself. If you don't have time or would prefer just to get it fixed at a shop all the time, I would go new. You can't really go wrong with any of the bigger brands, personally we sell Trek and Cannonade at my shop, and both are high quality. If you want, feel free to pm me some bikes you have in mind and I can be more specific!
I think a 29 might be a little tall for 5'9. I'm about that and I went with a 26 (though to be honest it was 2005 and niners hadn't really taken off yet). Depending on the sort of riding you want to do. Just around town a hybrid is a good pick, maybe a cross bike if you want more durability and better brakes (discs are really good in wet weather). If you ware going offroad at all then a decent hardtail is a great option, and with the right tyres can be equally good on pavement. I went with lightweight tyres on my MTB that aren't as grippy but work out as a great balance between trail and pavement performance.
Any of the "good" brands are always a safe bet, I'm a fan of Trek, Cannondale makes good stuff across the board. If you want road-quality there's a long list of brands that are good, and if you want offroad quality there's another long list.
I can throw two bikes into the back of my RSX (I have some shop blankets) and they don't even obstruct the rear window, but it's up to you. We custom fabricated a 2-bike hitch carrier to our miata and we have a more "standard" 4-bike one for the focus.
good bike weather!? HA!
im always on my bike, even when there is ice on the roads.
made a custom slick with studs on it
"i can has ride any time, any place!"
I used to commute by bike too, before I got a car. Rain, ice, white-out snowfall, I dealt with it all. Even after I became a manager, I just got a waterproof suitbag.
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Thanks for the response. I'll start looking. I've never really done much bike maintenance but I can't image its much harder than vehicle maintenance, which I kind of enjoy. I just need a compact stand and some bike specific tools, plus whatever I can learn from youtube.
Yea my 29er is too tall for me but I'm fine with it. She may not be, we are going to stop at a shop this weekend that was recommended.
I hate to put a hitch on that car but you are the second person with a ton of bike experience who's recommended it over the roof rack route.
Thanks again. When we narrow down a model I'll shoot you a pm if you don't mind.
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DV brings up a good point. What kind of riding is she hoping to do? I assumed she was looking to join you on single track, but if not, a hybrid would be great for casual city riding. In my experience, most hardtail (at least the ones we sell) are 29ers, and they work for anyone really, although are better handled for people in a Medium or bigger. If you are looking for a mountain bike, check out pinkbike.com, there is a large second-hand classifieds there.
In my experience, having a hitch rack is nicer if you are using it a lot. If it is only occasional riding, a roof rack works. I installed a roof rack on my parents car because they don't use it very much. The roof rack is just more annoying to put bikes up on in my opinion.
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Thanks for the response. I'll start looking. I've never really done much bike maintenance but I can't image its much harder than vehicle maintenance, which I kind of enjoy. I just need a compact stand and some bike specific tools, plus whatever I can learn from youtube.
Yea my 29er is too tall for me but I'm fine with it. She may not be, we are going to stop at a shop this weekend that was recommended.
I hate to put a hitch on that car but you are the second person with a ton of bike experience who's recommended it over the roof rack route.
Thanks again. When we narrow down a model I'll shoot you a pm if you don't mind.
Parktool has a lot of good videos on it. They are a super awesome bike maintenance resource. Their tools are really good too, but I usually couldn't afford them. It depends on how much work you want to do if you should get good tools or great ones.
Bike maint is a lot "smaller": you will learn to love your 5mm hex wrench, and torque things down to terms of inch-lbs. There's a lot of really tiny adjustments you can make. Setting the brake range is pretty easy, but dialing in indexed shifters can be a pain (one reason I went with friction shifters). Setting derailleur limits is straightforward. Most of the rest you won't need to know unless you intentionally want to build up a frame.
But there's lots of small stuff to tweak and tinker with.
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All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
Unfortunately any bike that is $120 assembled will be rather heavy and low quality. You could definitely fix it yourself if you are determined.. Youtube has a lot of good videos that can teach you how to tune a brake. Then you just need to pay for the parts! :) :) :)
I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
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All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
Unfortunately any bike that is $120 assembled will be rather heavy and low quality. You could definitely fix it yourself if you are determined.. Youtube has a lot of good videos that can teach you how to tune a brake. Then you just need to pay for the parts! :) :) :)
I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
Did you try putting lube between the brake pads and the actual braking surface?
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All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
Unfortunately any bike that is $120 assembled will be rather heavy and low quality. You could definitely fix it yourself if you are determined.. Youtube has a lot of good videos that can teach you how to tune a brake. Then you just need to pay for the parts! :) :) :)
I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
Did you try putting lube between the brake pads and the actual braking surface?
Hopefully not. That is a bad idea! You want to keep the rim clean of any oils or contaminants. Oil will ruin the brake pads.
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All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
Unfortunately any bike that is $120 assembled will be rather heavy and low quality. You could definitely fix it yourself if you are determined.. Youtube has a lot of good videos that can teach you how to tune a brake. Then you just need to pay for the parts! :) :) :)
I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
Did you try putting lube between the brake pads and the actual braking surface?
Hopefully not. That is a bad idea! You want to keep the rim clean of any oils or contaminants. Oil will ruin the brake pads.
(http://textemoticons.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/073.gif)
Come-on guys.. I'm not THAT noob..
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Will have to get a pic of mine posted in the next couple days. But here is what mine started as.
2002 Kona Roast in that burnt orange color.
http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?150883-SOLD-2002-Kona-Roast
Not my bike but same color.
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Yesterday, I got my shoelace stuck in the pedal, so I had to stop... and I fell. Took the fall with my hands, and now I have an ache in my left forearm whenever I move. Not that bad though, so I'm not going to seek care until Monday if it still persists by then.
Gah... I never thought I could get my shoelaces wound around the pedals like that. I've got to be more careful...
I had got the laces from a military bag so that I would have strong laces that wouldn't break so easily, but I experienced the downside to that decision ...
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bought an old bike from the beginning of the 80s, converted to single speed and fixed it up, have since the picture accuired more rust and new brakes :)
The bikelooks dope.
(http://i.imgur.com/LvSq0Is.jpg)
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All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
Unfortunately any bike that is $120 assembled will be rather heavy and low quality. You could definitely fix it yourself if you are determined.. Youtube has a lot of good videos that can teach you how to tune a brake. Then you just need to pay for the parts! :) :) :)
I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
Did you try putting lube between the brake pads and the actual braking surface?
Hopefully not. That is a bad idea! You want to keep the rim clean of any oils or contaminants. Oil will ruin the brake pads.
Show Image
(http://textemoticons.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/073.gif)
Come-on guys.. I'm not THAT noob..
I was just testing you ;)
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Can you save a lot buying used? Or do bike hold their value pretty well?
I was poking around on pinkbike.com and all the medium 29ers go for quite a bit. Seems like just buying new might be the way to go? I'm not really sure how much you save going used.
http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/2015/bikes/mountain/trail-hardtails/trail-sl-29/trail-sl-29-ss
And how much of a markup is there on stuff like this? Like what would a good deal be? And is it better to find a model year earlier, and would I save that much?
I think when I got mine it was a model year earlier and saved a bit, I think it was around $1100 or so when I bought it early 2006, or maybe it was 2005, cant remember.
Hmm just found this, decent tool?
http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchBikes.aspx
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I own an awesome carbon fiber headphone stand!
Can it do wheelies?
It can, but not I. Or ride without holding on to the handle bars :(
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I have a '04/'05 Rans Tailwind recumbent that I'm going to dust off and put on Craigslist this year.
Next year I'd like to get a folding Catrike.
I can't go back to upright/diamond frame bicycles - they are too uncomfortable.
When I had owned upright bicycles I tried pretty much every saddle you can think of - even the Brooks; but couldn't last more than a couple miles. On a recumbent? 30+ miles EASY.
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Can you save a lot buying used? Or do bike hold their value pretty well?
I was poking around on pinkbike.com and all the medium 29ers go for quite a bit. Seems like just buying new might be the way to go? I'm not really sure how much you save going used.
http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/2015/bikes/mountain/trail-hardtails/trail-sl-29/trail-sl-29-ss (http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/2015/bikes/mountain/trail-hardtails/trail-sl-29/trail-sl-29-ss)
And how much of a markup is there on stuff like this? Like what would a good deal be? And is it better to find a model year earlier, and would I save that much?
I think when I got mine it was a model year earlier and saved a bit, I think it was around $1100 or so when I bought it early 2006, or maybe it was 2005, cant remember.
Hmm just found this, decent tool?
http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchBikes.aspx (http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchBikes.aspx)
You can definitely find some good deals buying used, however you have to be checking pretty regularly as many good deals go really fast (at least in my area). What I have managed to do in the past is buy a bike off of someone secondhand, but the bike was only a week old, so I got a new bike for a few hundred less! Im not sure about how the classifieds are in your area, so maybe new is the way to go. We have a large mountain bike community in Vancouver, so there are tons of older bikes available.
How much of a mark up is there? Bike shops usually sell stuff at the MSRP that the bike manufacturer sets, which is usually around 30-40% higher than what they buy it for. Finding an older model is a great idea, as most older models are the same bike but with a different paint job, and you save some money for sure. (at least $100 in my shop). Most bikes commonly go on sale around August-November, when the new models are being released, as shops want to get rid of old stock. Usually the more common sizes like mediums and larges go first, and S/XLs will remain.
I haven't looked too much into bicyclebluebook, but i have heard great things about them in the past! Sometimes I will just youtube something specific if it stumps me. :)
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here's mine, as promised.
(http://i.imgur.com/oRNCcFS.jpg)
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bought an old bike from the beginning of the 80s, converted to single speed and fixed it up, have since the picture accuired more rust and new brakes :)
The bikelooks dope.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/LvSq0Is.jpg)
holy crap henz, now i have to post a pic of mine. hahaha
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(http://i.imgur.com/LlOKUJV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hr0IGBe.jpg)
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Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/LlOKUJV.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/hr0IGBe.jpg)
bit of an odd cockpit setup you have there.
Can you save a lot buying used? Or do bike hold their value pretty well?
I was poking around on pinkbike.com and all the medium 29ers go for quite a bit. Seems like just buying new might be the way to go? I'm not really sure how much you save going used.
http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/2015/bikes/mountain/trail-hardtails/trail-sl-29/trail-sl-29-ss
And how much of a markup is there on stuff like this? Like what would a good deal be? And is it better to find a model year earlier, and would I save that much?
I think when I got mine it was a model year earlier and saved a bit, I think it was around $1100 or so when I bought it early 2006, or maybe it was 2005, cant remember.
Hmm just found this, decent tool?
http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchBikes.aspx
Your wife wants a front shock. You get much better control especially on uphills with a solid fork but it's less comfortable for a beginner. Then again if you're just riding around town it's not so big a deal. and if you arent' doing too heavy mountain biking it's not that big a deal. So it could work.
I can't say about bike prices since I got most of my gear used. it's true that there isn't much difference year-to-year. It's mainly small changes to the groupset. You can check this on bikepedia. Frame geometry and bike fitment are much more important than specific group choices IMO, but this might be because I change up my group so much I don't value it so much.
I have a '04/'05 Rans Tailwind recumbent that I'm going to dust off and put on Craigslist this year.
Next year I'd like to get a folding Catrike.
I can't go back to upright/diamond frame bicycles - they are too uncomfortable.
When I had owned upright bicycles I tried pretty much every saddle you can think of - even the Brooks; but couldn't last more than a couple miles. On a recumbent? 30+ miles EASY.
Yeah I've been eyeing the catrike too for a while. If recumbants weren't so expensive I'd own one by now.
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you could always look and see if there are any community bike projects in your area.
they are fairly common, and its a great place to get a cheep bike. or pre built bikes.
and a lot of them may have a course to teach you how to build up your own bike from scratch.
well thats just my two cents anyway...
i've gotten so aggravated at these new components that come out that are just meant to be thrown out after a few miles.
so i just restore. and rebuild whatever i've got.
im always swaping all my parts from frame to frame, and rebuilding wheel sets.
hmm kind of like keyboards parts from one to another :P
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here's mine, as promised.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/oRNCcFS.jpg)
Great looking bike demik! I have the same bartape on my road bike, its so nice and comfortable! :)
you could always look and see if there are any community bike projects in your area.
they are fairly common, and its a great place to get a cheep bike. or pre built bikes.
and a lot of them may have a course to teach you how to build up your own bike from scratch.
well thats just my two cents anyway...
i've gotten so aggravated at these new components that come out that are just meant to be thrown out after a few miles.
so i just restore. and rebuild whatever i've got.
im always swaping all my parts from frame to frame, and rebuilding wheel sets.
hmm kind of like keyboards parts from one to another :p
True that, I find myself switching bikes every year or two just for a new experience !
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yup lizard skins is comfortable, but it wears quickly =/
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yup lizard skins is comfortable, but it wears quickly =/
Yeah that is true. Kinda pricey at retail too :/
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Thanks for the responses!
With the hitch mount racks should I go with a 2" or 1.25" receivers? The Thule Apex 4 fits both (we'll have to carry three bikes) but not sure if the bigger receiver is better or lateral.
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As promised, my '09 Devinci Desperado I picked up last week. Rainy day so I had to take a garage pic :/
(http://i.imgur.com/2XUXl0U.jpg)
Also an attempt at an artsy shot from a recent ride.
(http://i.imgur.com/mw1f6L0.jpg)
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i think when i get back to the west coast. i am going to build up a full suspension bike.
always wanted to, but this thread is making me want even more.
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Yea this thread is corresponding to some plans to get my bike spun up, get the wife a bike, and get my stepson a bike. It's going to be expensive.
I need a hitch for the wagon
Bike rack that will carry three bikes
Bike maintenance stand plus some bike specific tools
Components to get my Gary Fisher spun up
Find a bike for the wife
Either rebuild my old 1993 Mongoose Rockadile or find a bike for a ten year old. I really want an excuse to rebuild the Mongoose; it was the first big purchase I ever made. I worked all summer to buy that bike and have managed to keep it all these years. The bike is too big for him, but not by much.
Lot of research and lot of $, but free family outings after that, lots of good place to ride around here.
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My first big bike purchase was the GT-LTS4000 back in high school. I ended up breaking and replacing all but one piece of the rear 4 bar linkage setup.
Not my bike but same model and color scheme
(http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/gt/549875d1276522023-great-raw-material-lts-4000-freebie-imgp0005.jpg)
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Thanks for the responses!
With the hitch mount racks should I go with a 2" or 1.25" receivers? The Thule Apex 4 fits both (we'll have to carry three bikes) but not sure if the bigger receiver is better or lateral.
I am not sure what would be best. Not really a car person, does one of them work for more applications then just bike racks? Many bike racks come with an adapter to fit both sizes of receivers.
Also an attempt at an artsy shot from a recent ride.
(http://i.imgur.com/mw1f6L0.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/mw1f6L0.jpg)
Looks like a nice bike, and great picture from your ride!
My first big bike purchase was the GT-LTS4000 back in high school. I ended up breaking and replacing all but one piece of the rear 4 bar linkage setup.
Not my bike but same model and color scheme
(http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/gt/549875d1276522023-great-raw-material-lts-4000-freebie-imgp0005.jpg) (http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/gt/549875d1276522023-great-raw-material-lts-4000-freebie-imgp0005.jpg)
I love old mountain bikes! We get quite a few through our shop here in North Van, since this is one of the areas where mountain biking started!
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So , bike chain lube. Can I just get the cheapest one with the Teflon, or is there something to the really expensive bottles.
Also do I clean the chain in straight water? What am I supposed to soak it in. Is dish soap OK.
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So , bike chain lube. Can I just get the cheapest one with the Teflon, or is there something to the really expensive bottles.
Also do I clean the chain in straight water? What am I supposed to soak it in. Is dish soap OK.
uh, i'd suggest Phil Wood Tenacious Oil.
its the best for chains imo.
and to clean it, dish soap would work. might take a while, but you may want a stronger degreaser.
i urge any bike enthusiast to look at this website.
it will answer any question.
and has ton of great information.
anything bike related.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
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I'm pretty new to bikes, the one I have right now is bought super used from a local shop that cleans up police impounded bikes and I got it for 100 bucks. Do you guys have any favorite resources I can read about getting into road bikes? Maybe what brands are better for beginners or what kind of frames/tires to look out for. I would appreciate any reading material as I'm just interested in learning about whats out there!
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So , bike chain lube. Can I just get the cheapest one with the Teflon, or is there something to the really expensive bottles.
Also do I clean the chain in straight water? What am I supposed to soak it in. Is dish soap OK.
uh, i'd suggest Phil Wood Tenacious Oil.
its the best for chains imo.
and to clean it, dish soap would work. might take a while, but you may want a stronger degreaser.
i urge any bike enthusiast to look at this website.
it will answer any question.
and has ton of great information.
anything bike related.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
But this sheldonbrown guy, says specifically NOT to use tenacious oil.
hahahaha
I'm starting to wonder if "in my case" I might as well buy new chains whenever it starts squeaking instead of oils..
Cuz.. The chain I'd need for my bike (exercise, not hobby) is only $10..
The bottle of oil is $10... Why bother.. LOL.. if each chain is good for a thousand miles.. I might as well just keep getting chains.
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You can buy the cheapest one with teflon if you want. There are small diferences in more expensive ones, but nothing worth worrying about too much.
Don't clean the chain in straight water, you will rust it. If you must clean it, use a degreaser. However you shouldn't need to fully clean it. The best way is to spray some degreaser on an old rag and run the chain through the rag to clean the outsides of the chain. You can also do this without degreaser if you don't have any to clean the outside of the chain. If you dip it in stuff you will rust and make the inside links sticky.
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You can buy the cheapest one with teflon if you want. There are small diferences in more expensive ones, but nothing worth worrying about too much.
Don't clean the chain in straight water, you will rust it. If you must clean it, use a degreaser. However you shouldn't need to fully clean it. The best way is to spray some degreaser on an old rag and run the chain through the rag to clean the outsides of the chain. You can also do this without degreaser if you don't have any to clean the outside of the chain. If you dip it in stuff you will rust and make the inside links sticky.
on the Sheldonbrown page..
He says to take the chain and put it into a bottle with citrus degreaser and just shake it up.
Now.. Citrus degreaser isn't cheap ~$10. The teflon-oil is at least $10 as well. If my crummy bike only requires a $10 chain..
replacing the chain every 1000 miles would be easier than the maintenance no?
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Yeah you can definitely do that too. There are many ways to clean a chain, I personally prefer just to keep it fairly clean with a rag, but I use more expensive chains and they last longer. I usually end up cleaning my chain every few weeks anyways!
In your situation, I would agree you might as well just replace the chain, or use an old rag to clean the outside of it.
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I live about 2 miles away from my office and the other day i found this little gem.
I've dubbed it the Hipster Speical.
Generic hipster bike, but nearly everything on its been upgraded, cranks, pedals, bars, seat, etc.
I got it for $80, and put another $80 into it for new bearings, tires, a tune up at the local shop and a few other little goodies.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w553/ClaytonGFinley/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg) (http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/ClaytonGFinley/media/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg.html)
I've been puttering around on it for a few days, and today I rode it to work, it was nice, but man, single speeds suck for commuting.
I love the clean look of a fixie, and its light weight ( aprox 20lbs, don't have a scale ) but if I keep up on it I may sell it and buy a road bike in the 500 range.
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I live about 2 miles away from my office and the other day i found this little gem.
I've dubbed it the Hipster Speical.
Generic hipster bike, but nearly everything on its been upgraded, cranks, pedals, bars, seat, etc.
I got it for $80, and put another $80 into it for new bearings, tires, a tune up at the local shop and a few other little goodies.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w553/ClaytonGFinley/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg) (http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/ClaytonGFinley/media/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg.html)
I've been puttering around on it for a few days, and today I rode it to work, it was nice, but man, single speeds suck for commuting.
I love the clean look of a fixie, and its light weight ( aprox 20lbs, don't have a scale ) but if I keep up on it I may sell it and buy a road bike in the 500 range.
what's the point of a larger rear wheel.
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its the same size, but its a 'deep-v' rim, that makes it look bigger.
edit: the bike is also leaning at an angle in the pic
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I live about 2 miles away from my office and the other day i found this little gem.
I've dubbed it the Hipster Speical.
Generic hipster bike, but nearly everything on its been upgraded, cranks, pedals, bars, seat, etc.
I got it for $80, and put another $80 into it for new bearings, tires, a tune up at the local shop and a few other little goodies.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w553/ClaytonGFinley/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg) (http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/ClaytonGFinley/media/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg.html)
I've been puttering around on it for a few days, and today I rode it to work, it was nice, but man, single speeds suck for commuting.
I love the clean look of a fixie, and its light weight ( aprox 20lbs, don't have a scale ) but if I keep up on it I may sell it and buy a road bike in the 500 range.
Looks like it is in good condition for only $80! Everyone wants those kinds of bikes around here, so you can't even find any for less then $200! :o
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yeah, i live in austin and the hipster appeal is pretty big here as well. its a little beat up, and not that pretty looking, but for the most part rides okay. I think I need to replace the chain and freewheel, but for now its fine.
I really want to strip it down and paint it up and make it match a little better.
I'm thinking a bright red frame would look pretty good instead of the baby blue.
even after fixing it up and the added goodies, i could probably flip it for a few bucks, and get a better road bike with gears. even though my commute is pretty short at 2 miles, the fixie kills me on the slight hills, up hills suck, and going down hills it rolls faster than i can peddle.
Hopefully as i get into better shape it becomes easier.
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yeah, i live in austin and the hipster appeal is pretty big here as well. its a little beat up, and not that pretty looking, but for the most part rides okay. I think I need to replace the chain and freewheel, but for now its fine.
I really want to strip it down and paint it up and make it match a little better.
I'm thinking a bright red frame would look pretty good instead of the baby blue.
even after fixing it up and the added goodies, i could probably flip it for a few bucks, and get a better road bike with gears. even though my commute is pretty short at 2 miles, the fixie kills me on the slight hills, up hills suck, and going down hills it rolls faster than i can peddle.
Hopefully as i get into better shape it becomes easier.
Makes sense. I live on top of one mountain, and work on top of another hill, so a fixie wouldn't work for me! Seem kinda fun though.
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yeah, I want to beat up on this one before I look into getting something a bit more expensive.
Also while a geared bike may be easier, this one is a bit better of a work out.
I'm thinking if I get into it a bit, maybe i'll upgrade later.
My goal is to ride to work at least 2 days a week.
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Sounds like a good plan to me! Biking to work is an excellent way to get fit/into the sport. :)
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Sounds like a good plan to me! Biking to work is an excellent way to get fit/into the sport. :)
Do all the people who bike to work have something like work-showers ?
How can you work when you're all damp and mildly-sticky all day from the sweat..
Or do you guys have some sort of genetic adaptation such that you don't sweat while biking whatsoever..
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Sounds like a good plan to me! Biking to work is an excellent way to get fit/into the sport. :)
Do all the people who bike to work have something like work-showers ?
How can you work when you're all damp and mildly-sticky all day from the sweat..
Or do you guys have some sort of genetic adaptation such that you don't sweat while biking whatsoever..
My ride to work is pretty relaxing, its mainly a downhill/flat ride the whole way to work, so I am fine with just a change of clothes when I get there. Riding home at the end of the day makes me sweat though!
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What are some general bike ownership tips, for cleaning and maintenance?
I plan to wipe down my bike with a microfiber towel, and maybe a bit of automotive shampoo, but is there any place that I should avoid getting soapy water on or anything else?
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What are some general bike ownership tips, for cleaning and maintenance?
I plan to wipe down my bike with a microfiber towel, and maybe a bit of automotive shampoo, but is there any place that I should avoid getting soapy water on or anything else?
Avoid getting water on anything that can rust easily. Such as your chain/headset/hubs/bottom bracket area. Basically you can get water on them but it is better not to spray a hose directly in these areas which are sealed.
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Sounds like a good plan to me! Biking to work is an excellent way to get fit/into the sport. :)
Do all the people who bike to work have something like work-showers ?
How can you work when you're all damp and mildly-sticky all day from the sweat..
Or do you guys have some sort of genetic adaptation such that you don't sweat while biking whatsoever..
My ride to work is pretty relaxing, its mainly a downhill/flat ride the whole way to work, so I am fine with just a change of clothes when I get there. Riding home at the end of the day makes me sweat though!
I leave my place at 7 so its a bit cooler in the morning ( and living in texas, 'cool' is a relative term )
I don't have showers at work ( wish i did though ) but I just wear shorts/t-shirt for the ride, and clean off with baby wipes and wash my face and change into my work clothes in the office bathroom.
My ride is only 2 miles, and if I take it easy i don't get too burnt out.
So far, being stinky isn't an issue, but hopefully the more I ride, the stronger I get and the less I sweat.
In the evenings i get pretty sweaty, but i'm usually booking it and getting more of a work out out of it, and once i'm home I shower up.
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Sounds like a good plan to me! Biking to work is an excellent way to get fit/into the sport. :)
Do all the people who bike to work have something like work-showers ?
How can you work when you're all damp and mildly-sticky all day from the sweat..
Or do you guys have some sort of genetic adaptation such that you don't sweat while biking whatsoever..
My ride to work is pretty relaxing, its mainly a downhill/flat ride the whole way to work, so I am fine with just a change of clothes when I get there. Riding home at the end of the day makes me sweat though!
I leave my place at 7 so its a bit cooler in the morning ( and living in texas, 'cool' is a relative term )
I don't have showers at work ( wish i did though ) but I just wear shorts/t-shirt for the ride, and clean off with baby wipes and wash my face and change into my work clothes in the office bathroom.
My ride is only 2 miles, and if I take it easy i don't get too burnt out.
So far, being stinky isn't an issue, but hopefully the more I ride, the stronger I get and the less I sweat.
In the evenings i get pretty sweaty, but i'm usually booking it and getting more of a work out out of it, and once i'm home I shower up.
Isn't 2 miles only about 10 minutes on a bicycle?
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What are some general bike ownership tips, for cleaning and maintenance?
I plan to wipe down my bike with a microfiber towel, and maybe a bit of automotive shampoo, but is there any place that I should avoid getting soapy water on or anything else?
Avoid getting water on anything that can rust easily. Such as your chain/headset/hubs/bottom bracket area. Basically you can get water on them but it is better not to spray a hose directly in these areas which are sealed.
What are some general bike ownership tips, for cleaning and maintenance?
I plan to wipe down my bike with a microfiber towel, and maybe a bit of automotive shampoo, but is there any place that I should avoid getting soapy water on or anything else?
Avoid getting water on anything that can rust easily. Such as your chain/headset/hubs/bottom bracket area. Basically you can get water on them but it is better not to spray a hose directly in these areas which are sealed.
What are some general bike ownership tips, for cleaning and maintenance?
I plan to wipe down my bike with a microfiber towel, and maybe a bit of automotive shampoo, but is there any place that I should avoid getting soapy water on or anything else?
Avoid getting water on anything that can rust easily. Such as your chain/headset/hubs/bottom bracket area. Basically you can get water on them but it is better not to spray a hose directly in these areas which are sealed.
Thank you, GH resident Bike Tech :)
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You can buy the cheapest one with teflon if you want. There are small diferences in more expensive ones, but nothing worth worrying about too much.
Don't clean the chain in straight water, you will rust it. If you must clean it, use a degreaser. However you shouldn't need to fully clean it. The best way is to spray some degreaser on an old rag and run the chain through the rag to clean the outsides of the chain. You can also do this without degreaser if you don't have any to clean the outside of the chain. If you dip it in stuff you will rust and make the inside links sticky.
on the Sheldonbrown page..
He says to take the chain and put it into a bottle with citrus degreaser and just shake it up.
Now.. Citrus degreaser isn't cheap ~$10. The teflon-oil is at least $10 as well. If my crummy bike only requires a $10 chain..
replacing the chain every 1000 miles would be easier than the maintenance no?
thats usualy what i do anyways.
but on the tenatious lube. i love how it picks up all the dust/dirt, its just more satisfying to clean when it gets that way :P
and it leaves cool marks on my pants/socks
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I live about 2 miles away from my office and the other day i found this little gem.
I've dubbed it the Hipster Speical.
Generic hipster bike, but nearly everything on its been upgraded, cranks, pedals, bars, seat, etc.
I got it for $80, and put another $80 into it for new bearings, tires, a tune up at the local shop and a few other little goodies.
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w553/ClaytonGFinley/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg) (http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/ClaytonGFinley/media/IMG_4550_zpswtqarsj9.jpg.html)
I've been puttering around on it for a few days, and today I rode it to work, it was nice, but man, single speeds suck for commuting.
I love the clean look of a fixie, and its light weight ( aprox 20lbs, don't have a scale ) but if I keep up on it I may sell it and buy a road bike in the 500 range.
jixr. those major taylor handle bars are nice, i had some once, but then a car backed into my parked bike.
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Sounds like a good plan to me! Biking to work is an excellent way to get fit/into the sport. :)
Do all the people who bike to work have something like work-showers ?
How can you work when you're all damp and mildly-sticky all day from the sweat..
Or do you guys have some sort of genetic adaptation such that you don't sweat while biking whatsoever..
i don't sweat.
i am a machine.
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Cycling is my biggest passion, followed by mountaineering/rock climbing and finally keyboards (I know, blasphemy, keyboards should be first ;D )
Here is The Princess:
(http://i.imgur.com/RCgAcDK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/xBvvY5a.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OEpMY3R.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/1QlDMy0.jpg)
And obligatory selfie:
(http://i.imgur.com/gaOx1LQ.jpg)
The bike is a 2011 Trek Ticket 20 (http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/ticket-20-2011-mountain-bike-ec026285)
I ride it to work as often as I can and because It's a short bike, riding through the Bucharest chaos is not that bad.
I changed most of the parts on it, except the frame, seatpost, saddle, handlebars, headset and stem.
I worked on the bike myself except the bottom bracket and crankset (because I do not have the necessary tools for those).
It was a huge learning experience and a lot of fun and copious amounts of pain... especially building the wheels in the kitchen with the help of youtube "idiot proof how to" videos.
I have become very attached to The Princess and I do not think I'll sell it too soon. Probably I may pass it over to my girlfriend (so I can still have it in the same house with me :P)
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So I got ****ty sidepull brakes. yea...
And it's pretty damn near impossible to get them to come together simultaneously..
Because what I got is a low-precision part, one side seems to come in before the other.. I've tried numerous adjustments.
Options?
disk brake?
-
So I got ****ty sidepull brakes. yea...
And it's pretty damn near impossible to get them to come together simultaneously..
Because what I got is a low-precision part, one side seems to come in before the other.. I've tried numerous adjustments.
Options?
disk brake?
i could make them work for you..
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So I got ****ty sidepull brakes. yea...
And it's pretty damn near impossible to get them to come together simultaneously..
Because what I got is a low-precision part, one side seems to come in before the other.. I've tried numerous adjustments.
Options?
disk brake?
i could make them work for you..
No, i dont' think u could.. I tried EVERYTHING.. every adjustment possible.
I think it's because the prongs are just not bent with enough precision such that they're not at the right angle..
The spring tension might also be uneven between the 2 sides, sigh...
It's not the cast metal kind, it's the bent cheapo kind.
Looks like these , http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Mx1000-Alloy-Bicycle-Brake/dp/B000AO5J9S/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1433460516&sr=8-15&keywords=brakes+set
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Did you try bending the metal wire that sits behind the brake?
-
Cycling is my biggest passion, followed by mountaineering/rock climbing and finally keyboards (I know, blasphemy, keyboards should be first ;D )
Here is The Princess:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/RCgAcDK.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/xBvvY5a.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/OEpMY3R.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/1QlDMy0.jpg)
And obligatory selfie:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/gaOx1LQ.jpg)
Damn, nice bike man.
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Cycling is my biggest passion, followed by mountaineering/rock climbing and finally keyboards (I know, blasphemy, keyboards should be first ;D )
Here is The Princess:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/RCgAcDK.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/xBvvY5a.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/OEpMY3R.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/1QlDMy0.jpg)
And obligatory selfie:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/gaOx1LQ.jpg)
The bike is a 2011 Trek Ticket 20 (http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/ticket-20-2011-mountain-bike-ec026285)
I ride it to work as often as I can and because It's a short bike, riding through the Bucharest chaos is not that bad.
I changed most of the parts on it, except the frame, seatpost, saddle, handlebars, headset and stem.
I worked on the bike myself except the bottom bracket and crankset (because I do not have the necessary tools for those).
It was a huge learning experience and a lot of fun and copious amounts of pain... especially building the wheels in the kitchen with the help of youtube "idiot proof how to" videos.
I have become very attached to The Princess and I do not think I'll sell it too soon. Probably I may pass it over to my girlfriend (so I can still have it in the same house with me :P)
Very cool setup you got there!
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Damn, nice bike man.
Thank you!! ;D ;D
Very cool setup you got there!
Thank you!! :D ;D
My goal, when buying parts and building it, was to make it a good allrounder. It does not do anything perfectly (xc, am, etc) but, as a day to day ride on and off road, is ideal (at least for me).
If you would like, I can give you a parts list :P
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Did you try bending the metal wire that sits behind the brake?
The spring?
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Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
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Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
get a less large butt?
-
Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
get a less large butt?
(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/064.gif)
-
Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
So a proper fitting saddle should be wide enough so that your sitbones will rest on it. That is why padding is not really needed if you have the right size seat. Many bike shops will have a device that you sit on and it will measure the width of your sit bones, so that you know what size to look for!
-
Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
So a proper fitting saddle should be wide enough so that your sitbones will rest on it. That is why padding is not really needed if you have the right size seat. Many bike shops will have a device that you sit on and it will measure the width of your sit bones, so that you know what size to look for!
Hmmmmm
I can readily guess-timate the distance of the bones, but my question is, Would wider always be better, if my goal is to diffuse the weight "across my entire-butt" as much as possible.
-no aesthetic requirement (already an ugly bike)
-no weight requirement (already heavy as fff...)
-
Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
So a proper fitting saddle should be wide enough so that your sitbones will rest on it. That is why padding is not really needed if you have the right size seat. Many bike shops will have a device that you sit on and it will measure the width of your sit bones, so that you know what size to look for!
Hmmmmm
I can readily guess-timate the distance of the bones, but my question is, Would wider always be better, if my goal is to diffuse the weight "across my entire-butt" as much as possible.
-no aesthetic requirement (already an ugly bike)
-no weight requirement (already heavy as fff...)
Actually wide isnt always better. As you want your sitbones on the edge of the saddle for max comfort. I know that one brand we sell at work, Bontrager, do a 30day fit guarantee, so if you don't like it, you can return them anytime in 30 days which is pretty good for finding the right saddle.
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my bike is fun, but its a bit ugly. I think its time to bust out the paint stripper and the rattle cans and make my bike pretty.
I also want to paint my rear wheel, but not sure if thats a good idea or not.
-
Are ah.. the Seat post RAIL-Clamps universal..
I just bought one of those big seats made for Heavy-dudez.. and I didn't realize they don't come with rail clamps.
Will my current rail clamp work?
-
Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
get a less large butt?
Show Image
(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/064.gif)
tp! i am sorry,
maybe get one of those old schwinn saddles? with the springs?
(http://i.imgur.com/ehokTbM.jpg)
cheep and comfy !
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Brooks B67 Honey:
(http://www.brooksengland.com/images/cache/shop/shop_saddles/classic_saddles___city___transport/b67/colors/b67_honey_1_w800_h600_vamiddle_jc95.jpg)
-
Hey guyz... what's the word on seats... my current one is too narrow.. it hurts my er... lower-butt..
Halp..
/serious
get a less large butt?
Show Image
(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/064.gif)
tp! i am sorry,
maybe get one of those old schwinn saddles? with the springs?
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/ehokTbM.jpg)
cheep and comfy !
Haha.. No worries rm-rf.
I already bought this one, it was the cheapest biggest one they had.. though @ $47 + tax, my seat is now approximately half the cost of my entire bike.. (http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/70bff581.gif)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41aRkmhEJCL.jpg)
Any thoughts on the seat clamp issue?
-
Brooks B67 Honey:
Show Image
(http://www.brooksengland.com/images/cache/shop/shop_saddles/classic_saddles___city___transport/b67/colors/b67_honey_1_w800_h600_vamiddle_jc95.jpg)
I was gonna get one like that ..
But I measured my butt print.. (http://www.freesmileys.org/emoticons/tuzki-bunnys/tuzki-bunny-emoticon-010.gif)
The pubis-sitting-bones arn't that wide, the contact distance on a flat surface, my butt comes out to about 10 inches fringe to fringe.
The fringe doesn't seem to have much pressure, but still.. I figure I want this to feel like an excercycle as much as possible, but outside with fresh air.
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Brooks B67 Honey:
Show Image
(http://www.brooksengland.com/images/cache/shop/shop_saddles/classic_saddles___city___transport/b67/colors/b67_honey_1_w800_h600_vamiddle_jc95.jpg)
I was gonna get one like that ..
But I measured my butt print.. Show Image
(http://www.freesmileys.org/emoticons/tuzki-bunnys/tuzki-bunny-emoticon-010.gif)
The pubis-sitting-bones arn't that wide, the contact distance on a flat surface, my butt comes out to about 10 inches fringe to fringe.
The fringe doesn't seem to have much pressure, but still.. I figure I want this to feel like an excercycle as much as possible, but outside with fresh air.
Brooks seats are very tough and have an extremely long break in time, and are still tough after that.
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Brooks seats are very tough and have an extremely long break in time, and are still tough after that.
The Brooks was the last saddle I tried before I said f**k this - I'm getting a recumbent.
-
Speaking of recumbents - check this place out:
Atomic Zombie Recumbent Bicycle Plans (http://www.atomiczombie.com/DIY%20Plans.aspx)
You can buy plans to build various recumbent bikes.
Don't tell me this doesn't look comfy:
(http://www.atomiczombie.com/plans/voyageur/Voyageur%20Long%20Wheelbase%20Recumbent%20Bike%205.jpg)
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Speaking of recumbents - check this place out:
Atomic Zombie Recumbent Bicycle Plans (http://www.atomiczombie.com/DIY%20Plans.aspx)
You can buy plans to build various recumbent bikes.
Don't tell me this doesn't look comfy:
Show Image
(http://www.atomiczombie.com/plans/voyageur/Voyageur%20Long%20Wheelbase%20Recumbent%20Bike%205.jpg)
Sure, but I'm already looking at Sky-rocketed equipment cost with just this seat upgrade...(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/th_057_.gif)
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So I've been haunting Craigslist looking for a good hitch mounted bike rack.
From what I understand most people with expensive bikes do not like swing style racks due to the potential contact? What do you guys think? Should I avoid the swing style and look for the holdup style?
Will be carrying either 2 or 3 bikes at a time.
I emailed this guy, this set up looks pretty dope. I want to get the model number and see what I can find out about it.
http://lancaster.craigslist.org/bop/5068005072.html
I haven't bought a hitch for the car yet, I'm waiting to see what kind of rack I end up with. I can get a 2" or 1.25" hitch. Going on the wife's Golf Sportwagen.
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In my experience swing-style racks are inferior. Mainly due to the swinging which can damage the bikes, and due to not all bikes fitting easily. I personally prefer the one that you are looking at on craigslist, I have had a couple in that style and they are easy and much nicer to use! (IMO)
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Thanks, that seems to be the general coconscious. I'm blown away by the fact they are nearly 100lbs in the four bike configuration.
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Had this not been the bike thread..
You'd think ol' Tp4 has bought something else.
(http://i.imgur.com/0dGV7yb.jpg)
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Had this not been the bike thread..
You'd think ol' Tp4 has bought something else.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/0dGV7yb.jpg)
Haha. :))
(http://i.imgur.com/V6RJea7.jpg)
Took a picture before a nice ride yesterday!
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dang TP, how many miles do you think you can ride on that?
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dang TP, how many miles do you think you can ride on that?
(http://www.freesmileys.org/emoticons/tuzki-bunnys/tuzki-bunny-emoticon-035.gif)
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Awesome bike!
That gold fork made me think of Ohlins
(http://www.burke-motorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/ohlins-gold-logo.png)
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its amazing how trek has come along over the years, not sure if its good or bad!
but that bike does look good.
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Awesome bike!
That gold fork made me think of Ohlins
Show Image
(http://www.burke-motorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/ohlins-gold-logo.png)
Thanks, its actually one of the new Marzocchi 350 forks that I destickered!
its amazing how trek has come along over the years, not sure if its good or bad!
but that bike does look good.
I had an old Trek and I have this one. I have also owned bikes from several other brands (Giant, Intense, Specialized), and I have to say, this one is my favourite so far! I did do some modding of my own as the Remedy usually has 140mm of travel front and rear, however I have the fork set at 160.
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Brooks B67 Honey:
Show Image
(http://www.brooksengland.com/images/cache/shop/shop_saddles/classic_saddles___city___transport/b67/colors/b67_honey_1_w800_h600_vamiddle_jc95.jpg)
dis im getting in a forseen future, if i can get a hold of a black one.
Edit: black ones everywhere:
(http://www.cykelgear.se/images/brooksflyerssortherre2013.jpg)
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Brooks B67 Honey:
Show Image
(http://www.brooksengland.com/images/cache/shop/shop_saddles/classic_saddles___city___transport/b67/colors/b67_honey_1_w800_h600_vamiddle_jc95.jpg)
dis im getting in a forseen future, if i can get a hold of a black one.
Edit: black ones everywhere:
Show Image
(http://www.cykelgear.se/images/brooksflyerssortherre2013.jpg)
Internet says with the brook seats, you have to make sure your sit-bones land on the "inside" of the leather and not the outer edge, something about the edge being hard..
-
Brooks B67 Honey:
Show Image
(http://www.brooksengland.com/images/cache/shop/shop_saddles/classic_saddles___city___transport/b67/colors/b67_honey_1_w800_h600_vamiddle_jc95.jpg)
dis im getting in a forseen future, if i can get a hold of a black one.
Edit: black ones everywhere:
Show Image
(http://www.cykelgear.se/images/brooksflyerssortherre2013.jpg)
Internet says with the brook seats, you have to make sure your sit-bones land on the "inside" of the leather and not the outer edge, something about the edge being hard..
I have a old bike which i ride to work. Style is more important than comfort in this case :). If i decide to use a bike for excersice purposes, ill get another one.
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Crosspost from Post your life any pictures ! (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43536.msg1777878#msg1777878)
Guess who is going for fixed forks from now on?
(http://i.imgur.com/LlTC8hyl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/LlTC8hy)
Metal fatigue on my front suspension. Was just cycling to work this morning when I noticed my steering wheel was at an odd angle.
When I stopped to check it out, the entire wheel disconnected. The actual suspension stopped working properly several years ago but the repair shop they couldn't do anything because it was non-maintainable.
Still, this shouldn't happen on an 8 year old bike.
A short list of ailments thusfar:
- Aluminum crank arm that snaps in half?
- Aluminum handle bar that just bends when I grab the bike from a rack?
- Axle stays that just snap or eat right through the aluminum, taking the entire gear cable with it?
- Aluminum kick stand that just rots away and falls completely off?
- Chain guard that shatters whenever you take it off to maintain the chain or tighten it?
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This thread makes me miss Minneapolis... :'(
I need to get out on the trails.
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This thread makes me miss Minneapolis... :'(
I need to get out on the trails.
Yeah you do! Or better yet, come visit Vancouver!!
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come visit Vancouver!!
Hmmmmm...
/me looks up ticket prices...
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I think I've posted my bike in other threads but here are a few pics:
RB-1 I picked up the other day.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/e15/11348269_486656848169960_325450610_n.jpg)
My second Litespeed, this is an old pic when it was freshly built up. Need to replace some stuff like the stem and seatpost but you get the idea :))
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg)
My track frame is currently in the shop for frame damage due to an accident but I'll post that up when I get it built back up, it's an EAI Bareknuckle. Steel is real!
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I give up..
Today I even went as far as to lube the brake cables, and all moving brake handle hardware.
The- Action, is now much smoother.. but the caliper still don't close at the same time....
(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/098eb4a5.gif)
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I think I've posted my bike in other threads but here are a few pics:
RB-1 I picked up the other day.
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/e15/11348269_486656848169960_325450610_n.jpg)
My second Litespeed, this is an old pic when it was freshly built up. Need to replace some stuff like the stem and seatpost but you get the idea :))
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg)
My track frame is currently in the shop for frame damage due to an accident but I'll post that up when I get it built back up, it's an EAI Bareknuckle. Steel is real!
where is this photo taken? in shot #1
-
Slowly but surely getting things spun up to start biking on the weekends once I finish this last class.
I have a 2005 Gary Fisher X-Caliber 29er that needs a tune-up. A full tune up which includes cables, bearing packing, adjustments, cleaning, trueing wheels, and torque check costs $200, plus another $100 to rebuild my fork (started leaking from the top, probably due to wall hanging for 3 years) . So instead of giving them the $300 plus I bought the tools and parts to do it myself.
Ordered:
Park Tool PCS-9 maintenance stand and 33 piece Jensen tool kit.
Replacement cables for the brakes/derails. Went with the Shimano Sil-Tec.
Rockshox service kit and 15 weight and 5 weight oil to rebuild my leaky front fork
Already have synthetic bearing grease to repack the bearings
New tubs, tires won't hold air
Nice new pump, my old one vanished
Last time I rode the bike it was just shifting wonky, otherwise it was fine, I did put a LOT of hard miles doing single track runs over two summers with almost no maintenance, so I'll see if it needs more than just what I purchased. I was going to buy new bearings but was at a loss of what fit what. I've never done any bike maintenance before, but it has to be easier than doing timing belts on Volkswagons or pulling the control arms from an Evolution. I have a lot of tools, plus now all the weird specialized stuff for bikes, so it should be a chill day in the garage watching YouTube videos. Hopefully.
Also ordered an EchoHitch 2" for the wife's Sportwagen, doing install this weekend.
Have to decide between the Kuat Transfer 3 bike or the Themla 3.
Also need to find her a bike, almost had a killer deal on a Trek 29 hard tail but it was too big, so now haunting craigslist and pinkbike.
If anyone has any good bike wrenching tips on as to what I should replace or whatever let me know.
This is the bike - http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=10053&make=682&model=43990&priceMax=20000
I thought about buying a new/used one, but I love that bike, would rather buy some nice components for it than buy something else.
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Just saw this video.. Apparently I've been turning wrong my whole life.. I suck....(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/th_115_.gif)
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hai guys..
if I mayber get disk brakes, is there a thing that attaches to the wheel, so i can put the disk on it, My wheels don't have the 6 holes for the disk.
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You need to bolt the caliper to the frame as well.
If the bike isn't set up for disc brakes its cost prohibitive to add them. I looked into it on an older bike of mine. I could do the fronts by buying a new fork, but the rears you needed a 2-300 kit just to mount it up, or take it to a machine shop and see if they can fab something up.
Oh and new wheels that support the discs. Wheels are expensive.
Edit: Rear kit - http://2btherapy.com/bikes/brake-therapy-conversion-kit
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You need to bolt the caliper to the frame as well.
If the bike isn't set up for disc brakes its cost prohibitive to add them. I looked into it on an older bike of mine. I could do the fronts by buying a new fork, but the rears you needed a 2-300 kit just to mount it up, or take it to a machine shop and see if they can fab something up.
Oh and new wheels that support the discs. Wheels are expensive.
Edit: Rear kit - http://2btherapy.com/bikes/brake-therapy-conversion-kit
Ffff it.. I'm gonna nip this shopping spree in the bud.
Thx for the splination.
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I think I've posted my bike in other threads but here are a few pics:
RB-1 I picked up the other day.
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/e15/11348269_486656848169960_325450610_n.jpg)
My second Litespeed, this is an old pic when it was freshly built up. Need to replace some stuff like the stem and seatpost but you get the idea :))
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg)
My track frame is currently in the shop for frame damage due to an accident but I'll post that up when I get it built back up, it's an EAI Bareknuckle. Steel is real!
where is this photo taken? in shot #1
Alameda, CA. Excuse the Instagram quality :))
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Yeah a bike thread!!!! this is my daily work horse its a 2013 Surly LHT and it has been my favorite bike so far.
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Yeah a bike thread!!!! this is my daily work horse its a 2013 Surly LHT and it has been my favorite bike so far.
Where is that? Amazing view, and nice looking bike :)
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I think I've posted my bike in other threads but here are a few pics:
RB-1 I picked up the other day.
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/e15/11348269_486656848169960_325450610_n.jpg)
My second Litespeed, this is an old pic when it was freshly built up. Need to replace some stuff like the stem and seatpost but you get the idea :))
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg)
My track frame is currently in the shop for frame damage due to an accident but I'll post that up when I get it built back up, it's an EAI Bareknuckle. Steel is real!
where is this photo taken? in shot #1
Alameda, CA. Excuse the Instagram quality :))
Nice bikes jwaz! I quit like the look of the RB-1! Be sure to post pics of your track bike once you get it up and running! How often do you ride in the track? Do you race?
Yeah a bike thread!!!! this is my daily work horse its a 2013 Surly LHT and it has been my favorite bike so far.
Nice bike! Surly make such great workhorse bikes! Lovely view too :)
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I think I've posted my bike in other threads but here are a few pics:
RB-1 I picked up the other day.
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/e15/11348269_486656848169960_325450610_n.jpg)
My second Litespeed, this is an old pic when it was freshly built up. Need to replace some stuff like the stem and seatpost but you get the idea :))
Show Image
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg)
My track frame is currently in the shop for frame damage due to an accident but I'll post that up when I get it built back up, it's an EAI Bareknuckle. Steel is real!
where is this photo taken? in shot #1
Alameda, CA. Excuse the Instagram quality :))
Nice bikes jwaz! I quit like the look of the RB-1! Be sure to post pics of your track bike once you get it up and running! How often do you ride in the track? Do you race?
Yeah a bike thread!!!! this is my daily work horse its a 2013 Surly LHT and it has been my favorite bike so far.
Nice bike! Surly make such great workhorse bikes! Lovely view too :)
It's a hilltop park that overlooks long beach, it's actually pretty cool you can see long beach, Catalina island and LA from that spot.
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I read that.. to workout target the butt, you need to ride --out of the saddle--.
What does mean... ? --out of the saddle--
(http://www.freesmileys.org/emoticons/tuzki-bunnys/tuzki-bunny-emoticon-010.gif)
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It means to stand on the pedals and ride your bike without sitting down. Sometimes people do it when they are riding up hills and need some more power. It is quite tiring though, so I wouldn't recommend doing it for fun! :P
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It means to stand on the pedals and ride your bike without sitting down. Sometimes people do it when they are riding up hills and need some more power. It is quite tiring though, so I wouldn't recommend doing it for fun! :P
Hrrmmm... how do I make sure I'm working the butt... is there a lean to this?
more specifically,, am I suppose to lean forward or back.. or side to side, in order to get the hips into it ?
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So I don't have a picture with me of my bike but it's a specialized hardrock with custom flats. Nothing overly special but I enjoy it.
How about some good shoes though?
(http://i.imgur.com/pkPeTPi.jpg)
Haven't found shoes I like for riding more than these....even though I ripped one shoes outer layer open on my first ride. heh.
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So I don't have a picture with me of my bike but it's a specialized hardrock with custom flats. Nothing overly special but I enjoy it.
How about some good shoes though?
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/pkPeTPi.jpg)
Haven't found shoes I like for riding more than these....even though I ripped one shoes outer layer open on my first ride. heh.
What's the difference between bicycle shoes and regular shoes.
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So I don't have a picture with me of my bike but it's a specialized hardrock with custom flats. Nothing overly special but I enjoy it.
How about some good shoes though?
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/pkPeTPi.jpg)
Haven't found shoes I like for riding more than these....even though I ripped one shoes outer layer open on my first ride. heh.
What's the difference between bicycle shoes and regular shoes.
Since I ride purely with flat pedals with adjustable nubs, these shoes are made for better grip on flats. So the sole has a pattern that fits this well. Also they're a very stiff sole so smacking your foot into a branch or tree or the ground or something isn't likely to do any damage. Then they're also multi layered for durability during rough conditions.
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So I don't have a picture with me of my bike but it's a specialized hardrock with custom flats. Nothing overly special but I enjoy it.
How about some good shoes though?
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/pkPeTPi.jpg)
Haven't found shoes I like for riding more than these....even though I ripped one shoes outer layer open on my first ride. heh.
What's the difference between bicycle shoes and regular shoes.
Since I ride purely with flat pedals with adjustable nubs, these shoes are made for better grip on flats. So the sole has a pattern that fits this well. Also they're a very stiff sole so smacking your foot into a branch or tree or the ground or something isn't likely to do any damage. Then they're also multi layered for durability during rough conditions.
hrrrmm...
I see.. So, I have a pair of vanns from my hipster days.. that's the same thing right? skate board shoe?
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So I don't have a picture with me of my bike but it's a specialized hardrock with custom flats. Nothing overly special but I enjoy it.
How about some good shoes though?
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/pkPeTPi.jpg)
Haven't found shoes I like for riding more than these....even though I ripped one shoes outer layer open on my first ride. heh.
What's the difference between bicycle shoes and regular shoes.
Since I ride purely with flat pedals with adjustable nubs, these shoes are made for better grip on flats. So the sole has a pattern that fits this well. Also they're a very stiff sole so smacking your foot into a branch or tree or the ground or something isn't likely to do any damage. Then they're also multi layered for durability during rough conditions.
hrrrmm...
I see.. So, I have a pair of vanns from my hipster days.. that's the same thing right? skate board shoe?
Not quite. Same overall style I guess, sole pattern is different and vans are made to be more flexible. When I say the soles are stiff, they're really stiff, you need that extra flexibility with skate shoes a lot of the time.
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hrrm... i recall the shoes I had were pretty stiff compared to my sneakers..
as for traction pattern, I could prolly just drill some shallow holes at the front der' no ?
(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/069.gif)
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It means to stand on the pedals and ride your bike without sitting down. Sometimes people do it when they are riding up hills and need some more power. It is quite tiring though, so I wouldn't recommend doing it for fun! :p
Hrrmmm... how do I make sure I'm working the butt... is there a lean to this?
more specifically,, am I suppose to lean forward or back.. or side to side, in order to get the hips into it ?
Sorry tp4, I am no butt expert. :)
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hrrm... i recall the shoes I had were pretty stiff compared to my sneakers..
as for traction pattern, I could prolly just drill some shallow holes at the front der' no ?
Show Image
(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/069.gif)
I say go for it. I mean, your feet will be bloody by the end of it but no pain no gain yah?
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I saw this really sexy ... singlespeed hardtail today. Bright red, black rims, hubs and handlebar with diskbrakes and 28" Schwalbe Big Apples.
No front suspension.
I would really like to try something like that because with the MTB rims it looked like it could take a beating in city traffic...
I thought the brand was 'Santorno' or something but it seems I was mistaken... :(
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I watch this before my daily bike ride:
The glory days.
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Started working on my bike this weekend.
Repacked the rear bearings, cleaned the frame, took off the stickers, pulled front forks and rebuilt (new seals and oil)
Found broken, messed up
Rear cassette, multiple broken teeth on a few rings, bought one locally, nice Shimano with bronze rings.
Outer crank ring was bent to hell, ordered a new one, Race Face Team Chainring Black, 44 Tooth, 104 BCD
Brake pads totally shot, rotors looking meh, ordered Avid X0 Trail brakes with Avid Cleansweep rotors 200mm front 180mm rear, plus bracket adapters.
Grips pretty much trashed/worn out, ordered Ergon GA2 black.
Chain completely jacked up with a few links that looked very bad, ordered KCM X9 Gold
So far I've spent about half of what I paid for the bike on new components and tools. I knew the thing was in really rough shape, didn't realize how bad. When I first moved to MD I was going every weekend, sometimes both days, for three hour plus rides on this huge single track network near Towson and never had it tuned up. I miss going though and it's kind of enjoyable getting prepped to go again.
One thing I haven't figured out is that this bike has exposed cables along the long part of the frame, the new brake cables are all solid, not sure how I'll mount those, guess I'll figure it out when they get in and I have the time to install everything.
(http://i.imgur.com/nAlSCu1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/0tb1dGz.jpg)
(returned the brake cables)
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Looks great! Avid X0 Trail brakes are really nice! They are hydraulic so they have fluid in the system so you have to have the full line. Usually I would just run them along the frame and use some cable ties to hold them down. :)
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As long as the lines aren't too fat I think they'll fit in the stock mounting points. If not zip ties it is, unless I can find something that looks nicer.
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h422/juston3smok33/IMG_3997_zpse9dj6won.jpg)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h422/juston3smok33/IMG_3995_zpssx8acbgu.jpg)
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I watch this before my daily bike ride:
The glory days.
That's a pretty rad intro!
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As long as the lines aren't too fat I think they'll fit in the stock mounting points. If not zip ties it is, unless I can find something that looks nicer.
Show Image
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h422/juston3smok33/IMG_3997_zpse9dj6won.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h422/juston3smok33/IMG_3995_zpssx8acbgu.jpg)
Yeah you might be able to fit a hydraulic hose in there. Looks pretty big.
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What are your thoughts on those 1x11 drivetrains?
After going out on my bike twice the largeness is more annoying than I remember, I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on something that fits me. A hard tail 19" 29er on a 5'9 person makes me sit up really high and I bit it a couple times because of it. I guess back when I was going every weekend I was just younger and better at adapting, this was six/seven years ago.
I'm renting a Scott Spark next weekend to try a 27.5 with full suspension. I'm taking the wife's 27.5 hard tail out Friday.
Looking at some Santa Cruz 5010's online. I plan on going every Monday for the rest of the year, or until it gets too cold. Getting back out there reminds me what I was missing. I did the ride last Monday in three hours. After getting it down with a proper bike I should be able to shave a lot off it.
This Singletracks topo app was pretty handy. I know there are some trick GPS units out there, something for next year.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZGdudLB.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/tqT4qM8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9f0eBMo.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9tXuIt8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NwG8GgM.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/MMLvem5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6avlIk2.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/FwC0a3O.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/4bQ4Em6.jpg)
That's with the bike rack in the down position so you can get into the back. I took it to look confusing on purpose to F with the wife.
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Nice! Looks like the ride was good. :) Heard great things about the 5010, don't know too much about the Spark, but I also ride a full sus 27.5 :). 1x11 drive trains are great. You get enough of a range for most riding, and it is cleaner without the front der, as well as less weight. And the chain won't fall off the front ring!
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I took it to look confusing on purpose to F with the wife.
:)) :)) :))
Such a loving husband.
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How often do people ride one of these trails.. and never make it back.. (http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/th_082_.gif)
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How often do people ride one of these trails.. and never make it back.. Show Image
(http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/th_082_.gif)
Not that often! :D Although my knee is pretty cut up from falling off my bike while riding a trail yesterday. :-[
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Ha it's her car, mine doesn't have any bike moving capabilities but that's on the eventual to do lists.
Crazy about your knee, is it pretty bad?
I've been watching a bunch of videos by "Global Mountain Bike Network" on YouTube and one was top ten mountain bikes accessories, one was knee pads. I bought some POC Joint VDP knee pads from Amazon, they came in last night. Very comfortable, will use them tomorrow for sure, might get the elbow pads also.
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So with the 1x11 how often do you feel you are lacking the gearing range you'd prefer? Especially on big elevation changes? And does it impact your top speed much, or more importantly, climbing? I've never ridden a 1x11, I'm going to call the rental place and see if I the Scott I have reserved has it or if one is available.
The Santa Cruz 5010 C Im looking at has it as an option in the S trim, however it's bundled with a few other upgraded and tacks on around another $1k.
Also I've found that online I can get the bike well below MSRP from Colorado Cycle, but if I go local, or at least Delaware to dodge the sales tax they all want MSRP. I was going to call Santa Cruz and make sure the online vendors are "authorized vendors" so there isn't any warranty issues, but I don't understand why the price difference is so extreme, like $400.
So here is the R trim snapshot
Shimano 2x10 drivetrain, SRAM hubs, and Shimano brakes
Rock Shox Sektor Silver TK 130 Fork
XT Derailleur
Shimano Deore M615 Brakes
Shimano Deore M617, 22/36t Cranks
And the S trim with the 1x11
And the more expensive S trim
Rockshox Pike RC 130 Fork
SRAM GX 1x11 Derailleur
Shimano SLX M675 Brakes
Raceface Aeffect SL 32t Cranks
http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en/us/5010
This bike is also limited in travel length, but I'm honestly not sure how much I'd actually need. Seems that the 130 would be enough for casual single track stuff, I'm not doing all mountain or big downhill stuff. I don't know anyone who is big into biking to ask other than shops that want to sell me something.
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So I went to a really nice bike shop in Delaware on Saturday. Garrison's Cyclery of Centerville.
The owner (I think) got a medium off the floor, adjusted a few things, put some pedals on it and let me take it for a ride. Then got a large out, did the same, and I tried that. Talked me through all the sizing stuff. The guy really went out of his way to help, talked me through a bunch of new bike techs on the market. Super cool guy, really into cars, has a STI Swapped Forester and an old ITR at home in his garage.
I asked if he did any price matching and told him about the Colorado Cycle listing, we checked it out and found that it wasn’t the model I was after, it was an early 2015 with the 2x10 crank and a super cheap cassette, everything else was the same, but kind of shady they were passing it off as such.
The guy ended up price matching them anyway plus $80, so I got it well under MSRP and bought from about the coolest person I've meet in years, and supported a super dope bike shop. Now the waiting game for it to come in.
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Nice Psybin!! Sounds like a great experience. I've worked at a bike shop for the last couple of years part-time, and it is always great when you get someone super hyped come in, and you can show them all the new tech, and get them set up on the perfect bike for them. Sometimes I see people out on the trails riding the bikes that I sold them! Its always great to run into them after.
Not sure what happened to my last post. I wrote a pretty long post replying to your previous comments but I guess I didn't hit send or something? Anyways, knee will be okay. 1x11 is pretty sweet, definitely the way to go in my opinion, I am glad you got the right specs that you are looking for. So what bike did you go for exactly, was it the 5010? I know some dudes who ride the 5010 and it is a sweet bike! I am sure you will love the thing! Be sure to post some pics when you get it, and let me know how it rides! :D Stoked for ya!
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I went with a 2015 5010C Build kit S.
Unfortunately the black color is backordered, they should know Friday what the status is. I'm like a kid waiting for xmas now. :thumb:
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Come up to Vancouver for a ride once you've got it! We can hit up the north shore, squamish and whistler :p
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So, my riding experience thus far.. Exercise only.. nothing fancy
Brakes, not that important, I've only used the brakes twice in 3 weeks. rode every other day..
Gears.. I could prolly get away with just 2x2..
My bike is very old, so the tubes are losing 2psi per day.. I need to pump it back up every week.. not so bad, i got an electric car pump w built in meter, takes 20 seconds..
The bike seat actually needs lubrication, otherwise all the springs in it squeaks like crazy.
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So, my riding experience thus far.. Exercise only.. nothing fancy
Brakes, not that important, I've only used the brakes twice in 3 weeks. rode every other day..
Gears.. I could prolly get away with just 2x2..
My bike is very old, so the tubes are losing 2psi per day.. I need to pump it back up every week.. not so bad, i got an electric car pump w built in meter, takes 20 seconds..
The bike seat actually needs lubrication, otherwise all the springs in it squeaks like crazy.
That sounds about right for the tires. My road bike loses about 15 psi / week, but the tires sit at around 110psi normally which is pretty high.
I use quite a few more gears around here, do you not have hills around you tp4?
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I've watched this five times already
http://digg.com/video/downhill-biking-single-shot-semenuk
My bike isn't in until next weekend :'(
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I've watched this five times already
http://digg.com/video/downhill-biking-single-shot-semenuk
My bike isn't in until next weekend :'(
How are those flairs in the dirt maintained in the corners, is there concrete under the dirt to make those curves?
or do they just pay some guy to pile the dirt up there every once in a while.
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I've watched this five times already
http://digg.com/video/downhill-biking-single-shot-semenuk (http://digg.com/video/downhill-biking-single-shot-semenuk)
My bike isn't in until next weekend :'(
How are those flairs in the dirt maintained in the corners, is there concrete under the dirt to make those curves?
or do they just pay some guy to pile the dirt up there every once in a while.
People maintain them, usually just volunteers who build the trails end up maintaining them too.. I do some trail maintenance on a couple of local trails.
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I rented the whole video last night from Amazon.
About half was really cool, the rest was a lot of slow motion stuff which was kind of overused. All in all very worth watching though, some of those shots were just astounding.
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Finally got around to getting a shot of my bike.
[attach=1]
It is an 02 Kona Roast. I bought it with the 1x9 setup and the bashring. The guide rollers have since fallen off, so when I replaced the crank arms, that bracket came off as well. I bought it with a Marzoochi fork, bit in FL I think I got some water in the fork tubes, then sitting under the porch at my parents house in IA, it froze and broke the brake arch off one side, so it has a Rock Shox on it now.
Front brake is hydraulic disc with braided stainless line. Just changed the pads on the front this spring since I bought it in the summer of 03.
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Oh wow, I'm so glad this thread is a thing, I'm a huge biker. I'll get some shots of mine and post them tomorrow!
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I biked a lot in high school and moderately while at University. I rode mostly on a mountain bike (some frame made in China that I put Shimano components on). My dad had a road bike from the 80s that I started riding. I liked it but stopped after I wiped out. The village had begun installing new street lights and excavated shallow channels across the road that were three to four inches wide and two inches deep. Going over one in a straight line was no big deal...I hit one on a bend and crashed into a construction site...I wasn't hurt that badly just minor cuts and bruises. I had the road bike repaired but decided to stick to mountain bikes.
Some 15 to 17 years later...I've decided to give it another go. Took the bike out of storage, stripped it down, and had it powder coated. Frame and fork is white bars and seat post in matte black.
(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45656.0;attach=107458;image)
It used to be metallic blue with a polished front fork...for the life of me, I do not know why I have no photos of before I took it apart or before I had it powder coated...
Anyway, I'm going to have this reassembled tomorrow. I am undecided if I should reuse the existing components (Shimano 600 chainset, rear derailleur, some Shimano front derailleur, Suntour brakes). Thinking of grabbing a Tiagra group set or a 105 since it comes in black lol.
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Nice! :) You can't go wrong with either of those, although 105 is quite nice for the money. If you want a good quality that will last you, then I would recommend 105, but tiagra is pretty good too!
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My second Litespeed, this is an old pic when it was freshly built up. Need to replace some stuff like the stem and seatpost but you get the idea :))
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg) (https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg)
My track frame is currently in the shop for frame damage due to an accident but I'll post that up when I get it built back up, it's an EAI Bareknuckle. Steel is real!
where is this photo taken? in shot #1
Alameda, CA. Excuse the Instagram quality :))
Nice bikes jwaz! I quit like the look of the RB-1! Be sure to post pics of your track bike once you get it up and running! How often do you ride in the track? Do you race?
Yeah dude, totally. I raced a few times in Cat 5 at the velodrome outside of Seattle when I lived up there. It's been a few years but before I took it out there I mostly just raced in alley cats and whatever race people around the city were doing.
I'm in the middle of moving but when I'm done it's way up on my list of things to get done, miss that thing! At this point I'm probably just going to get a 3rensho or Nagasawa when I make it over to Japan since they're so cheap now.
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Went with the 105 group set after finding them at the price I had budgeted for a tiagra group set. Couldn't find 27x1 tires so I ended up going 700c.
Picture from my first ride:
[attachimg=1]
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This will be my next ride for q2 2016:
(http://velocologne.com/html/racer_weis/pix/racer_weis.gif)
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My second Litespeed, this is an old pic when it was freshly built up. Need to replace some stuff like the stem and seatpost but you get the idea :))
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg) (https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/e15/10554212_1458452694405790_1946305014_n.jpg)
My track frame is currently in the shop for frame damage due to an accident but I'll post that up when I get it built back up, it's an EAI Bareknuckle. Steel is real!
where is this photo taken? in shot #1
Alameda, CA. Excuse the Instagram quality :))
Nice bikes jwaz! I quit like the look of the RB-1! Be sure to post pics of your track bike once you get it up and running! How often do you ride in the track? Do you race?
Yeah dude, totally. I raced a few times in Cat 5 at the velodrome outside of Seattle when I lived up there. It's been a few years but before I took it out there I mostly just raced in alley cats and whatever race people around the city were doing.
I'm in the middle of moving but when I'm done it's way up on my list of things to get done, miss that thing! At this point I'm probably just going to get a 3rensho or Nagasawa when I make it over to Japan since they're so cheap now.
Nice man, that sounds pretty cool! I never got into the road side of things so much, but used to do some mountain bike racing for fun!
Went with the 105 group set after finding them at the price I had budgeted for a tiagra group set. Couldn't find 27x1 tires so I ended up going 700c.
Picture from my first ride:
[attachimg=1]
Nice! Glad you found 105. Lol I can't tell what is behind the bro cap in that picture?
This will be my next ride for q2 2016:
Show Image
(http://velocologne.com/html/racer_weis/pix/racer_weis.gif)
I have always wanted to try one of those! Looks like the ergodox of bikes. :p
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Went with the 105 group set after finding them at the price I had budgeted for a tiagra group set. Couldn't find 27x1 tires so I ended up going 700c.
Picture from my first ride:
(Attachment Link)
Oops I uploaded the wrong pic. Haha
It was pic of a bro cap on the face of my kid's stuffed dog.
For the curious:
More
[attachimg=1]
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That makes more sense! :)) Looks great all back together! How do it ride?
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It came in last Friday. I've gone on three trails since.
When I'm not on it I'm thinking about it.
I need to get a new seat, the one that came with is brutal and this one is from my Gary Fisher and it's pretty worn.
I'm also rocking cheap flats, will go back to clipless soon.
It's going to take a year for my savings to recover :-[
(http://i.imgur.com/SPnlpIt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/42K5Drt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/gDEVsNy.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/F9m7lS5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/SyaVOK9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WJ0KKGL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9iJz2Cs.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/D5BUc6f.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/yPj3V9I.jpg)
Frame Material Carbon C
Fork Rockshox Pike RC 130mm Solo Air w/15mm through axle and tapered steerer
Shock Fox Float CSN7
Rear Dérailleur SRAM GX 1x11
Shifters SRAM GX
Crankset Raceface Aeffect SL 32t
Bottom Bracket Included w/ crankset
Cassette SRAM XG1150 10-42
Chain SRAM PC1130
Brakes Shimano SLX M675
Brake Rotors Shimano RT66; 180mm
Headset Cane Creek 40 series tapered, cartridge bearing
Bars Race Face Ride 760mm, 35mm clamp
Stem Race Face Ride, 35mm clamp
Grips Santa Cruz Palmdale Lock-on
Front Hub Sram MTH 716 15x100
Rear Hub Sram MTH 746 142x12
Rims Easton AR 24
Spokes DT Swiss Champion
Front Tire Maxxis Minion DHR2, TR, 3c, 27.5x2.3
Rear Tire Maxxis Ardent, 27.5x2.25
Tubes Stans Sealant
Seat Post Rockshox Reverb Stealth, 125mm travel (100mm travel on size small)
Saddle WTB Volt Race
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Nothing like the look of fresh carbon! :eek: Congrats though Psybin.. Looks amazing! Are you liking the ride?
Clipless is great. ;)
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When I rode regularly I was on clipless, but I'm getting used to the bike and new trails.
Rides fantastic. Love it.
I need to get a hitch for my car, which they don’t make and I have to find a place that'll do one custom. In the mean time I have to steal the wife's car every time I want to go out.
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Nice man! I have this week off, so I have been able to get out on the mountain bike each day. Feels good! ;D
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Nice man! I have this week off, so I have been able to get out on the mountain bike each day. Feels good! ;D
Awesome :D that is the best feeling ever
(https://i.imgur.com/zGHNzyG.jpg)
I was testing out the new camera and took a closer shot of the reflective logo on the bike. It is super cool :O
(http://i.imgur.com/8rlSy0V.jpg)
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I went riding Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning, same route on this map. I'm not sure exactly how many miles it is, the Single-track reviews claim approximately ten miles. The first time I went it took three hours, I have it down to just under an hour and a half now, I've done the trail five or six times. I can go without pulling out my phone and getting my location now hah. There are two inclines I puss out on and have to get off the bike for a little bit, they are just too steep and I lose traction, but the rest of it I'm in the saddle.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZGdudLB.png)
I'm still new to the trail but I'm getting it really dialed in where I can start anticipating a lot of things before I'm on them, really enjoying the Santa Cruz and being out in the woods.
I'm 35 and after years of running and lifting my knees get pretty sore, they don't swell though so as the doctor said its nothing to be worried about. Saturday night I iced them up knowing I was going again Sunday and it made a huge difference, so much so I ordered a Shock Doctor ice wrap/kit for my knees. Good tip for those who ride a lot.
I also found a hitch for my car. No one makes one commercially, and a guy on the EvoX boards was selling one he had made custom for a 1/3 of the price he paid. So no more borrowing the wife's car to go riding woot woot. Putting it on next Thursday, the receiver will come out behind the license plate which will be on a hinged bracket, super stealth :thumb:
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Nice Psybin, looks great! Glad to hear you are enjoying the ride. I often find that fall is the best time of the year for riding, at least around here!
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Did an easy 50 miles today, first ride of my training for a huge bike ride next June. I'll be doing 230 miles in one day, Burlington VT to Quebec City in Canada.
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Bought a new bike today:
http://pinnacle-bikes.co.uk/road-and-cyclocross/pinnacle-arkose-three-2015-cyclocross-bike (http://pinnacle-bikes.co.uk/road-and-cyclocross/pinnacle-arkose-three-2015-cyclocross-bike)
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Did an easy 50 miles today, first ride of my training for a huge bike ride next June. I'll be doing 230 miles in one day, Burlington VT to Quebec City in Canada.
Nice! That sounds like a cool bike trip. How is the training coming along?
Bought a new bike today:
http://pinnacle-bikes.co.uk/road-and-cyclocross/pinnacle-arkose-three-2015-cyclocross-bike (http://pinnacle-bikes.co.uk/road-and-cyclocross/pinnacle-arkose-three-2015-cyclocross-bike)
Looks good! :) How do you like it so far?
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Did an easy 50 miles today, first ride of my training for a huge bike ride next June. I'll be doing 230 miles in one day, Burlington VT to Quebec City in Canada.
Nice! That sounds like a cool bike trip. How is the training coming along?
Bought a new bike today:
http://pinnacle-bikes.co.uk/road-and-cyclocross/pinnacle-arkose-three-2015-cyclocross-bike (http://pinnacle-bikes.co.uk/road-and-cyclocross/pinnacle-arkose-three-2015-cyclocross-bike)
Looks good! :) How do you like it so far?
Currently in the mail so idk :D
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Am I supposed to put on "winter tyres" on my hybrid?
I currently use:
Conti Sport Contact II, 700x28c
Would those be suicide to ride in the winter, even when the grounds aren't icy, but cold?
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Am I supposed to put on "winter tyres" on my hybrid?
I currently use:
Conti Sport Contact II, 700x28c
Would those be suicide to ride in the winter, even when the grounds aren't icy, but cold?
The short answer is that nah, those should be fine! :)
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Am I supposed to put on "winter tyres" on my hybrid?
I currently use:
Conti Sport Contact II, 700x28c
Would those be suicide to ride in the winter, even when the grounds aren't icy, but cold?
The short answer is that nah, those should be fine! :)
Thank you Mr. byker :)
Also quick question, where can I get one of those smaller bike-tire-values for air compressor? I actually haven't aired my tires since summer, haha.
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Am I supposed to put on "winter tyres" on my hybrid?
I currently use:
Conti Sport Contact II, 700x28c
Would those be suicide to ride in the winter, even when the grounds aren't icy, but cold?
The short answer is that nah, those should be fine! :)
Thank you Mr. byker :)
Also quick question, where can I get one of those smaller bike-tire-values for air compressor? I actually haven't aired my tires since summer, haha.
Most bike shops should stock the valve adaptors!
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Am I supposed to put on "winter tyres" on my hybrid?
I currently use:
Conti Sport Contact II, 700x28c
Would those be suicide to ride in the winter, even when the grounds aren't icy, but cold?
Dry winters? What kind of Canada are you living in?!
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Am I supposed to put on "winter tyres" on my hybrid?
I currently use:
Conti Sport Contact II, 700x28c
Would those be suicide to ride in the winter, even when the grounds aren't icy, but cold?
Dry winters? What kind of Canada are you living in?!
The best part. Vancouver! ;D
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Just found this thread on accident, yay bikes! I've been an on-again, off-again bike mechanic over the past 5 years. I probably have 4 or 5 ready to ride hanging in the garage but my main bike is this ~2006 Kona Jake that I set up more for city commuting then for actual cyclocross. I originally acquired the bike because a young woman brought it into a shop I worked at a number of years ago and just wanted to get rid of it for cheap. It belonged to her ex and it had been left outside with TWO taco'd wheels for the last couple of years before that. It was pretty nasty, I think I gave her about $60 for it. Then proceeded to totally rip it apart and clean everything, replacing all the wear items like the cables, brake pads, saddle, bar tape, etc., and put a used set of wheels on it. It sat in the back of the shop for a month before I actually took it for a ride one day and realized how nice it was to ride, so I bought it from the shop.
Over the last couple years, I added all the racks, fenders, and panniers, and upgraded some of the small components and installed a nicer set of wheels (Shimano hubs/Mavic rims). More recently I was getting pretty tired of the stock road bars, so I re-engineered the controls in order to utilize these sweet extra-wide Profile bullhorns I had lying around. The next thing I want to do to it is re-lace the front wheel with a dyno-hub and then wire up a set of permanent headlights that are already mounted on the bike.
3x9 spd Shimano
knockoff Thompson-style seatpost
Paul brake levers
Panaracer Pasela PT tires (700x28)
TRP mini-V rear brakes
Brooks Cambium saddle
My daily commuter! :thumb:
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Just found this thread on accident, yay bikes! I've been an on-again, off-again bike mechanic over the past 5 years. I probably have 4 or 5 ready to ride hanging in the garage but my main bike is this ~2006 Kona Jake that I set up more for city commuting then for actual cyclocross. I originally acquired the bike because a young woman brought it into a shop I worked at a number of years ago and just wanted to get rid of it for cheap. It belonged to her ex and it had been left outside with TWO taco'd wheels for the last couple of years before that. It was pretty nasty, I think I gave her about $60 for it. Then proceeded to totally rip it apart and clean everything, replacing all the wear items like the cables, brake pads, saddle, bar tape, etc., and put a used set of wheels on it. It sat in the back of the shop for a month before I actually took it for a ride one day and realized how nice it was to ride, so I bought it from the shop.
Over the last couple years, I added all the racks, fenders, and panniers, and upgraded some of the small components and installed a nicer set of wheels (Shimano hubs/Mavic rims). More recently I was getting pretty tired of the stock road bars, so I re-engineered the controls in order to utilize these sweet extra-wide Profile bullhorns I had lying around. The next thing I want to do to it is re-lace the front wheel with a dyno-hub and then wire up a set of permanent headlights that are already mounted on the bike.
3x9 spd Shimano
knockoff Thompson-style seatpost
Paul brake levers
Panaracer Pasela PT tires (700x28)
TRP mini-V rear brakes
Brooks Cambium saddle
My daily commuter! :thumb:
Welcome! Looks like you've got a nice commuter bike there. :)
Also, unless my eyes deceive me, it looks like you may be able to make some contributions to the Post Your Vinyl Records (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=61599.0) thread. ;)
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Welcome! Looks like you've got a nice commuter bike there. :)
Also, unless my eyes deceive me, it looks like you may be able to make some contributions to the Post Your Vinyl Records (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=61599.0) thread. ;)
Thank you!
And...holy crap. Yeah, good eye. I only own about a thousand records so yeah I'd say I could start following that thread.
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Just found this thread on accident, yay bikes! I've been an on-again, off-again bike mechanic over the past 5 years. I probably have 4 or 5 ready to ride hanging in the garage but my main bike is this ~2006 Kona Jake that I set up more for city commuting then for actual cyclocross. I originally acquired the bike because a young woman brought it into a shop I worked at a number of years ago and just wanted to get rid of it for cheap. It belonged to her ex and it had been left outside with TWO taco'd wheels for the last couple of years before that. It was pretty nasty, I think I gave her about $60 for it. Then proceeded to totally rip it apart and clean everything, replacing all the wear items like the cables, brake pads, saddle, bar tape, etc., and put a used set of wheels on it. It sat in the back of the shop for a month before I actually took it for a ride one day and realized how nice it was to ride, so I bought it from the shop.
Over the last couple years, I added all the racks, fenders, and panniers, and upgraded some of the small components and installed a nicer set of wheels (Shimano hubs/Mavic rims). More recently I was getting pretty tired of the stock road bars, so I re-engineered the controls in order to utilize these sweet extra-wide Profile bullhorns I had lying around. The next thing I want to do to it is re-lace the front wheel with a dyno-hub and then wire up a set of permanent headlights that are already mounted on the bike.
3x9 spd Shimano
knockoff Thompson-style seatpost
Paul brake levers
Panaracer Pasela PT tires (700x28)
TRP mini-V rear brakes
Brooks Cambium saddle
My daily commuter! :thumb:
I've seen this bike at work
I actually live in Albuquerque
It's not just the TV
IT'S NOT TV
GET ME OUTTA HERE
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I've seen this bike at work
I actually live in Albuquerque
It's not just the TV
IT'S NOT TV
GET ME OUTTA HERE
I'm confused, where have you seen this bike? I'm curious?
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Am I supposed to put on "winter tyres" on my hybrid?
I currently use:
Conti Sport Contact II, 700x28c
Would those be suicide to ride in the winter, even when the grounds aren't icy, but cold?
The short answer is that nah, those should be fine! :)
+1 on that. I've driven Schwalbe Marathon Supreme semi-slicks on snow and ice and unless the weather gets very bad or the snow very fluffy those Conti's should be fine. :thumb:
You'll know when it is time to swap them for something else.
I hope to be making a good contribution to this thread next year but for now I'm just reading a ton of info and trying to narrow down my wishes.
Already have a few bikes that I have my eye on but it won't be until later that I know how far I can extend my budget. ;D
My next big bike purchase will be a new B+M dynamo headlight and a new frame for my Brooks B17 Imperial.
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I've seen this bike at work
I actually live in Albuquerque
It's not just the TV
IT'S NOT TV
GET ME OUTTA HERE
I'm confused, where have you seen this bike? I'm curious?
At work, I told you. It's not your bike obviously, but it looks very alike :)
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I was going to build my own fixie bike over the summer, but I procrastinated and ended up not having the funds to build a bike with the parts I wanted. I just need a bike to get from point A to point B though, so yesterday I picked up a crappy ol bike from ****s sporting goods. Eh, it gets the job done but I'm thinking of buying a better bike once this one gives up. I ride about three miles to the gym and two miles to school in the morning.
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Can someone reccomend me a bike under 500$?
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I was going to build my own fixie bike over the summer, but I procrastinated and ended up not having the funds to build a bike with the parts I wanted. I just need a bike to get from point A to point B though, so yesterday I picked up a crappy ol bike from ****s sporting goods. Eh, it gets the job done but I'm thinking of buying a better bike once this one gives up. I ride about three miles to the gym and two miles to school in the morning.
Ah well, I guess you bought some keyboards instead! :P
Can someone reccomend me a bike under 500$?
What kind of riding will you be doing? I don't really know much about bikes under $500 unfortunately. What brands are sold near your house?
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Thinking of selling mine to fund a motorcycle OuO
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Thinking of selling mine to fund a motorcycle OuO
Motorcycles are fun.. I want one eventually!
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Thinking of selling mine to fund a motorcycle OuO
Motorcycles are fun.. I want one eventually!
I've been riding an electric bike around the shop area during lunch dinner etc..
Pretty fun..
I've noticed most people aren't leaning their body in the opposite direction when turning..
I guess it doesn't matter since they're not making any tight turns..
ALTHOUGH, i feel like if you don't get into the habit of doing so, you're not gonna suddenly be able to do it when it'll MATTER,
So, I always lean opposite, even if I don't need to.
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Can someone reccomend me a bike under 500$?
What kind of riding will you be doing? I don't really know much about bikes under $500 unfortunately. What brands are sold near your house?
[/quote]
I dont know man I think a bike that can handle a gravel road and city road
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New headlight :D
(http://i.imgur.com/SESfXcfh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/SESfXcf)
It's an B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo Premium senso plus (http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-scheinwerfer/lumotec-iq-cyo.html) with a separate front reflector to not piss of the Germans.
It had a low-end halogen light when they replaced the front fork but this one throws out a really nice wide beam and has some extras like daytime running lights. Besides, you can't beat German webshops (http://www.rosebikes.com/article/b--m-lumotec-iq-cyo-premium-t--senso-plus-front-headlamp/aid:709237) with these things.
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Thanks for the response. I'll start looking. I've never really done much bike maintenance but I can't image its much harder than vehicle maintenance, which I kind of enjoy. I just need a compact stand and some bike specific tools, plus whatever I can learn from youtube.
Yea my 29er is too tall for me but I'm fine with it. She may not be, we are going to stop at a shop this weekend that was recommended.
I hate to put a hitch on that car but you are the second person with a ton of bike experience who's recommended it over the roof rack route.
Thanks again. When we narrow down a model I'll shoot you a pm if you don't mind.
Parktool has a lot of good videos on it. They are a super awesome bike maintenance resource. Their tools are really good too, but I usually couldn't afford them. It depends on how much work you want to do if you should get good tools or great ones.
Bike maint is a lot "smaller": you will learn to love your 5mm hex wrench, and torque things down to terms of inch-lbs. There's a lot of really tiny adjustments you can make. Setting the brake range is pretty easy, but dialing in indexed shifters can be a pain (one reason I went with friction shifters). Setting derailleur limits is straightforward. Most of the rest you won't need to know unless you intentionally want to build up a frame.
But there's lots of small stuff to tweak and tinker with.
Park Tools is the best. Their bike stand is magnificent.
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Figured I'd toss my Felt TK3 on here. Since then, I've gotten a carbon/alloy stem and Zipp Vukasprints.
(http://i.imgur.com/oMlmd0a.png)
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Figured I'd toss my Felt TK3 on here. Since then, I've gotten a carbon/alloy stem and Zipp Vukasprints.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/oMlmd0a.png)
Looking good dude! How do you like it? :)
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Damn nice bikes guys! I'm just getting back into cycling after 18 years. Rebuilding a 1998 Mongoose to be my commuter. Heres how it started, swapped out tires for some 'big apple's:
(http://saliv8.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Misc/DSF2462-print.jpg?m=1449634777)
once my butt gets used to riding again and I lose some weight i'll start rebuilding this guy, a 1998 Cannondale:
(http://saliv8.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Misc/DSF2463-print.jpg?m=1449634772)
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[attachimg=1]
Shes not much but something
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I've been getting into biking the past year or so, mainly for commuting i got a Trek DS, but i'm looking around to get a used road bike at some point. I had an older cannondale that i had to get rid of when i moved.
[attach=1]
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(Attachment Link)
Shes not much but something
Interesting bike - I haven't seen that brand before
I've been getting into biking the past year or so, mainly for commuting i got a Trek DS, but i'm looking around to get a used road bike at some point. I had an older cannondale that i had to get rid of when i moved.
(Attachment Link)
Nice! I used to work at a bike shop that sold Trek, so I am quite familiar with the DS design. I do agree that a roadbike is much nicer for longer road rides though :)
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(Attachment Link)
Shes not much but something
Interesting bike - I haven't seen that brand before
I've been getting into biking the past year or so, mainly for commuting i got a Trek DS, but i'm looking around to get a used road bike at some point. I had an older cannondale that i had to get rid of when i moved.
(Attachment Link)
Nice! I used to work at a bike shop that sold Trek, so I am quite familiar with the DS design. I do agree that a roadbike is much nicer for longer road rides though :)
I like it for all season commuting around where i'm at, average i do about 30 ish miles a week, so nothing too extreme. But next term it will be up to 60 to 80 miles a week, so i deffinitly want a couple different options depending on the weather, i try to bike whenever i can.
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(Attachment Link)
Shes not much but something
Interesting bike - I haven't seen that brand before
I've been getting into biking the past year or so, mainly for commuting i got a Trek DS, but i'm looking around to get a used road bike at some point. I had an older cannondale that i had to get rid of when i moved.
(Attachment Link)
Nice! I used to work at a bike shop that sold Trek, so I am quite familiar with the DS design. I do agree that a roadbike is much nicer for longer road rides though :)
I like it for all season commuting around where i'm at, average i do about 30 ish miles a week, so nothing too extreme. But next term it will be up to 60 to 80 miles a week, so i deffinitly want a couple different options depending on the weather, i try to bike whenever i can.
been looking to get a another road bike for longer rides but considering how **** the economy in canada is right now it dont think it will be worth it to build one till the way I want it.
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(Attachment Link)
Shes not much but something
Interesting bike - I haven't seen that brand before
I've been getting into biking the past year or so, mainly for commuting i got a Trek DS, but i'm looking around to get a used road bike at some point. I had an older cannondale that i had to get rid of when i moved.
(Attachment Link)
Nice! I used to work at a bike shop that sold Trek, so I am quite familiar with the DS design. I do agree that a roadbike is much nicer for longer road rides though :)
I like it for all season commuting around where i'm at, average i do about 30 ish miles a week, so nothing too extreme. But next term it will be up to 60 to 80 miles a week, so i deffinitly want a couple different options depending on the weather, i try to bike whenever i can.
been looking to get a another road bike for longer rides but considering how **** the economy in canada is right now it dont think it will be worth it to build one till the way I want it.
Id love to build one from the frame up :p, or get a really nice pre built road bike. But i dont see being able to for quite some time, as expensive as the keyboard hobby is..... it doesnt come near the price of really nice bikes.
I'm thinking about putting some nice thin road tires on my DS when the weather gets better for the heck of it. Then i guess it would be closer to an upright road bike aside from the geometry being way different lol
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Tore apart my Shimano Nexus 8 hub for an oil bath conversion (http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.nl/2011/01/servicing-of-internally-geared-hub.html).
(http://i.imgur.com/mw0e0poh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/mw0e0po)
It took some time and it was freezing outside, but also fun. :P
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Bike lovers. Anyone heard of argon? http://www.kijiji.ca/v-bike-frames-parts/calgary/argon-18-radon-frame/1144528560?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
is this a good buy?
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been rocking the mongoose all winter... not a bad ride although i wish i had a rigid fork. Added and changed a bunch of stuff, gave it a good tune up and rode the piss out of it. Super bike, not fast by any means but it holds my weight so i've got that going for me i guess.
i took some real pics
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1498/24694043546_0124c3d612_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DC8qPu)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1621/24092080364_2261916fd2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CGWd8W)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1619/24092065494_f5d4ba72b4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CGW8Hy)
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Nice boostdemon! Thanks for reviving the thread.
Anyone using the new shimano 1x11 on their mountainbike? I am thinking of upgrading but not sure if its worth the cost. :p
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I wanted to post here for a long time, but it never happened (I think). Today I ride my new built bike, loved the (small) tour!
(http://i.imgur.com/XNhCNet.jpg)
I even wanted to drive with this cool feature (a cut beer can), but my better half said it is so stupid... I like it though!
(http://i.imgur.com/3FtpSOv.jpg)
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My trusty steed in it's best shoes!
[attachimg=1]
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I wanted to post here for a long time, but it never happened (I think). Today I ride my new built bike, loved the (small) tour!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/XNhCNet.jpg)
I even wanted to drive with this cool feature (a cut beer can), but my better half said it is so stupid... I like it though!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/3FtpSOv.jpg)
Looking good madhias! I have also used the beercan shim before too! Works well.
My trusty steed in it's best shoes!
(Attachment Link)
Nice ride! How do you like the wheels?
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I wanted to post here for a long time, but it never happened (I think). Today I ride my new built bike, loved the (small) tour!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/XNhCNet.jpg)
I even wanted to drive with this cool feature (a cut beer can), but my better half said it is so stupid... I like it though!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/3FtpSOv.jpg)
My trusty steed in it's best shoes!
(Attachment Link)
Nice ride! How do you like the wheels?
Super smooth, super fast. The difference is night and day compared to training wheels. Plus they make that cool wooshing sound, everyone likes the wooshing sound!
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I can tell people are getting their bikes ready for spring. :P
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My bike is the same all year round :)
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My bike is the same all year round :)
Same here. :)
Though I do hope to save up enough this year to build a new one. My current one needs some major overhauling which might get expensive.
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They haven't invented city bikes yet in the UK which is very inconvenient. They only have racing bikes, mountain bikes and hybrid bikes, all of which are totally useless for day-to-day tasks in a city, and they're very uncomfortable for people with bad backs. It took me ages to find this piece of **** hybrid that has at least the bare basics of a useful bikes; mudguards, baggage rack and gears without racking me - virtually everything else is missing at least one of them D; .
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They haven't invented city bikes yet in the UK which is very inconvenient. They only have racing bikes, mountain bikes and hybrid bikes, all of which are totally useless for day-to-day tasks in a city
What kind of day-to-day tasks do you do that hybrids are useless for?
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My bike stays the same all year round, but I definitely have a beginning and end of summer teardown after all the winter rain/mud and summer dust. :)
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I can tell people are getting their bikes ready for spring. :P
I'm getting ready to start biking to work! :D
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I can tell people are getting their bikes ready for spring. :P
I'm getting ready to start biking to work! :D
From one "Clydesdale rider" to another i highly recommend a few shorter rides to get your butt used to it. It took me some time to really get comfortable for even a few days a week riding 5 miles each way.
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I can tell people are getting their bikes ready for spring. :P
I'm getting ready to start biking to work! :D
From one "Clydesdale rider" to another i highly recommend a few shorter rides to get your butt used to it. It took me some time to really get comfortable for even a few days a week riding 5 miles each way.
Good point. I'll have to get back in the swing of things for sure. "Luckily" my commute is only 2.5 miles, so it shouldn't be too rough (but also won't count as a legitimate workout in my mind :-/ ).
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I can tell people are getting their bikes ready for spring. :P
I'm getting ready to start biking to work! :D
From one "Clydesdale rider" to another i highly recommend a few shorter rides to get your butt used to it. It took me some time to really get comfortable for even a few days a week riding 5 miles each way.
Good point. I'll have to get back in the swing of things for sure. "Luckily" my commute is only 2.5 miles, so it shouldn't be too rough (but also won't count as a legitimate workout in my mind :-/ ).
Better than nothing! :)
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I can tell people are getting their bikes ready for spring. :P
I'm getting ready to start biking to work! :D
From one "Clydesdale rider" to another i highly recommend a few shorter rides to get your butt used to it. It took me some time to really get comfortable for even a few days a week riding 5 miles each way.
Good point. I'll have to get back in the swing of things for sure. "Luckily" my commute is only 2.5 miles, so it shouldn't be too rough (but also won't count as a legitimate workout in my mind :-/ ).
2.5 miles is what i ride to go drinking on saturday nights... it can be a workout depending on hills and how fast you want to go. I will bet you can keep up at 10mph and do it just under 15min. If you have more time as you get conditioned and become faster/more efficient, you can start plotting out longer, prettier, more challenging, or more likely safer routes to take.
have fun though or you'll stop doing it.
also, fenders are really nice.
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I have a small collection of classic steel frames that I'm slowly restoring. Some I'll keep and build up with Campy only, others are Ebay fodder after they're redone. STEEL IS REAL!
- Merckx 753 Gran Prix.
- Merckx SLX Funny Bike.
- 1989 Waterford Schwinn Paramount OS
- 1998 Anniversary Edition Schwinn Paramount 853 from Match Cycles.
- Montagner with Oria GM 0.0 tubing.
- Medici with Tange Prestige tubing.
- Dave Moulton Fuso FRX.
- Peugot Chorus with Reynolds 753.
- Actual team issue Lemond in Team Z colors, not a repro. Its clearly a custom due its geometry, so a real Team Z frame.
- Lemond TSX.
- Lemond Zurich 853.
- Ciocc Worlds '77, an actual Ciocc, not a Ten Speed Drive version.
- Serotta Colorado II, a 1991-92, I believe.
- Serotta/Davis Phinney model, 1990, in SLX/SPX.
The list goes on.
I was riding a mountain bike until my injuries and hope to again soon.
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Very cool! :) I love a good steel bike. I eventually want to build another one once I stop moving around so much and have some more time to ride it!
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sup guys.
i'm in a need of a new bike as my old one was stolen. it wasn't much and had only one gear but i won it from a raffle so whatever. but yeah i was thinking of splurging a bit on a proper one that i can use in the winter as well.
suggestions? my budget is about max 600€ and i was thinking a 29" hard tail would be pretty good.
i was looking at Cube Aim SL and Cube Aim Pro, they any good? i'm fine with second hand stuff but i really am clueless what models are any good.
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sup guys.
i'm in a need of a new bike as my old one was stolen. it wasn't much and had only one gear but i won it from a raffle so whatever. but yeah i was thinking of splurging a bit on a proper one that i can use in the winter as well.
suggestions? my budget is about max 600€ and i was thinking a 29" hard tail would be pretty good.
i was looking at Cube Aim SL and Cube Aim Pro, they any good? i'm fine with second hand stuff but i really am clueless what models are any good.
What kind of riding do you do? Just road, just trails, a bit of both?
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sup guys.
i'm in a need of a new bike as my old one was stolen. it wasn't much and had only one gear but i won it from a raffle so whatever. but yeah i was thinking of splurging a bit on a proper one that i can use in the winter as well.
suggestions? my budget is about max 600€ and i was thinking a 29" hard tail would be pretty good.
i was looking at Cube Aim SL and Cube Aim Pro, they any good? i'm fine with second hand stuff but i really am clueless what models are any good.
What kind of riding do you do? Just road, just trails, a bit of both?
bit of both and mainly in the winter so unplowed snowy dirt roads etc.
i was recommended radon zr team 5.0 over the cubes.
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sup guys.
i'm in a need of a new bike as my old one was stolen. it wasn't much and had only one gear but i won it from a raffle so whatever. but yeah i was thinking of splurging a bit on a proper one that i can use in the winter as well.
suggestions? my budget is about max 600€ and i was thinking a 29" hard tail would be pretty good.
i was looking at Cube Aim SL and Cube Aim Pro, they any good? i'm fine with second hand stuff but i really am clueless what models are any good.
What kind of riding do you do? Just road, just trails, a bit of both?
bit of both and mainly in the winter so unplowed snowy dirt roads etc.
i was recommended radon zr team 5.0 over the cubes.
Yeah, that looks decent but I don't know much about the brand. I would recommend you go secondhand as you can usually got a lot better bang for your buck :) Just meet them at a bike shop and ask the mechanic beforehand if they are willing to give it a quick going over if you aren't too mechanically inclined.
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I ride my Hooligan mostly on the weekends along the L.A. Metro Expo line's bike path (it's almost done). It'll link downtown L.A. all the way to Santa Monica beach. Cannondale Hooligan is a really fun ride. There's a group on FB if anyone interested. :)
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How far do people usually bike for exercise daily? I'm slowly building up my stamina and can do 18 km in 40-45 mins for cardio, but wondering what is the norm.
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^ I usually ride around 10 - 15 miles a day but once the bike path is complete, I might be able to do 20+ miles each day (I only ride on weekends). :)
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How far do people usually bike for exercise daily? I'm slowly building up my stamina and can do 18 km in 40-45 mins for cardio, but wondering what is the norm.
It depends what you are working/training for. What is your goal?
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How far do people usually bike for exercise daily? I'm slowly building up my stamina and can do 18 km in 40-45 mins for cardio, but wondering what is the norm.
find a cadence you are comfortable with and just go 10% harder. That's normally a good starting point
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How far do people usually bike for exercise daily? I'm slowly building up my stamina and can do 18 km in 40-45 mins for cardio, but wondering what is the norm.
When I was in Minneapolis and actually had decent bike trails I would do 15 miles (24 km) or so at a pace between 16-18 mph (25-29 kph). This was relatively flat grade and I was in much better shape than I am now... :|
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Just got back from Japan and the Keirin frame dream is alive and well. Feels like 2007 man.
Just got Thomson stem and seatpost upgrades for my LItespeed and a new saddle and plastic double-strap cadges for my RB-1
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All ready to go for the season! ^-^ Could use a bit of a cleaning, but she'll do the trick. :))
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/27069818786_49c12ccfa4_k.jpg)
Schwinn Le Tour (https://flic.kr/p/Hf4U2y) by HoffmanMyster (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99522542@N03/), on Flickr
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This is my Giant tcr c3 and my girlfriend's kuwahara sprint. I'm glad that the rainy season is over.
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Went for my first ride today with coworkers during my lunch break! Was much better than expected - exhausting, but not overly so. :thumb: Now to just hope I don't feel worse tomorrow... :))
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I started riding last year, I'll try and get a photo when I get home from work today.
Went for the first ride of the season last week and realized how out of shape I am... Crazy how quickly it happens. Need to get something for work that I can be doing at my desk.
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A huge interest of mine so here's my spiel.
Currently, I ride a hand-built touring-inspired frame made from an assortment of 1970's Cinelli/Columbus tubing and lugs (used bronze and silver flux). Since Campy Record parts from that period are more expensive than they are worth, I threw on a SRAM Rival crankset and rear cassette with some old Tiagra shifters and derailleurs. Who says you can't mix and match? Wheels are from Sunshine Hub (they were just collecting dust) as was the saddle (a Fizik). Front and rear racks are custom-made for that bike specifically and serve their purpose.
If you are really interested in the build quality of old parts, just try heating a Cinelli bottom bracket shell (took roughly 5 minutes at 1000+ F).
(http://i.imgur.com/VU3NlPd.jpg)
This was my first build and certainly won't be the last.
Also, here is my dad's current ride. Another hand-built deal. He likes to cook and had the brilliant idea of joining the two together. He often rides around our area and others doing demonstrations and the like.
(http://i.imgur.com/zjp5AJT.jpg)
I also have a few other frames collecting dust:
2006 Lemond with 105 Groupset
1990s Bontrager Mountain Bike
2000s Fuji Newest
Custom "Pigarello" - Old Tandem frame modified with a 2.5' rear rack for BBQ delivery
Custom Recumbent Tandem (nicknamed "Red Green" after the show)
3 Custom Recumbents
Old Frames (Reynolds, Columbus, Custom Fiberglass)
Cool stuff:
Got to see the end of the Tour de France in 2012.
Crazy front chainring
(http://i.imgur.com/3jwnUm3.jpg)
Stage Finish
(http://i.imgur.com/mVhqKYy.jpg)
Chris Horner sighting!
(http://i.imgur.com/W6tIPvm.jpg)
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Me and Apple are going to ride our bikes together.
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All this talk about bicycles..
I just went and dug out the bike I got at sears when I was 14..
It's supposed to be a mountain bike.. But honestly, It's not, cuz it's heavy as ****..
It was like $120 assembled.. so.. yea......
Rear Breaks are shot.. the spring's weak, and no good.
Replacement brakes cost $20.00, are these people insane..Fffffffff
Unfortunately any bike that is $120 assembled will be rather heavy and low quality. You could definitely fix it yourself if you are determined.. Youtube has a lot of good videos that can teach you how to tune a brake. Then you just need to pay for the parts! :) :) :)
I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
I'll ditch the sears and Walmart bikes. I work in a bike shop and those bikes are crap to begin with. Wheels are never true and always come back to us with a crank arm completely sheered off. Probably better off to buy a good condition used bike then spend money maintaining your current bike.
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I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
I'll ditch the sears and Walmart bikes. I work in a bike shop and those bikes are crap to begin with. Wheels are never true and always come back to us with a crank arm completely sheered off. Probably better off to buy a good condition used bike then spend money maintaining your current bike.
[/quote]
preciate the late reply hellcatz..
But uh..... I only go around the neighborhood for 25 minutes for xercise.... no need for super bike..
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I'm well aware my bike is crummy.. I took the brake assembly apart. put some lube between each moving part. It seems to be working now. but still not great..
I could get a whole stationary bike for like $25.. Or new brake assembly for $20...
LOL.. tough choice..
I'll ditch the sears and Walmart bikes. I work in a bike shop and those bikes are crap to begin with. Wheels are never true and always come back to us with a crank arm completely sheered off. Probably better off to buy a good condition used bike then spend money maintaining your current bike.
preciate the late reply hellcatz..
But uh..... I only go around the neighborhood for 25 minutes for xercise.... no need for super bike..
[/quote]
nope a decent used bike can be anywere around 50-100 bucks. Better then flying down a hill when your wheels decide to disintegrate
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Crosspost:
Bought a stationbike for my girlfriend this weekend (Think cheap bike for city use) but it needed some work.
Today I replaced some cables and the handlebar tape and made it rideable again. Only thing I forgot is new brake pads...
Anyway, next weekend the old Batavus/Intercycle Champion can ride again. :)
(http://i.imgur.com/xNw6CY7h.jpg) (http://imgur.com/xNw6CY7)
(http://i.imgur.com/lZWLXDCh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/lZWLXDC)
(http://i.imgur.com/MQxUwF3h.jpg) (http://imgur.com/MQxUwF3)
This bell is awesome but I'll have to sand it and respray it some time.
More
(http://i.imgur.com/Ils1lBSh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/Ils1lBS)
(http://i.imgur.com/GGgwpYdh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/GGgwpYd)
(http://i.imgur.com/OQL4RmDh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/OQL4RmD)
(http://i.imgur.com/p99PAoBh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/p99PAoB)
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Looking for suggestions on turning a MTB into a hybrid/road commuter, the issue I'm having right now is numb wrists & pinched nerves on any ride longer than ~15 miles. I did get gloves, they are thin but do seem to help a bit. While riding, I reposition grip every 10 minutes or so but with a straight bar I feel like there's pretty much only one standard grip. Are drop handlebars the way to go? I've seen some drop-style bar clips but then my hands would be off the brakes :/ An entire new handlebar I'm assuming would need new levers; something that might be out of my price range, also I'm a noob and haven't looked in to what's entailed for an installation like that.
My boss just sold me his '08 GT Avalanche 2 mountain bike for $25.00. I mainly ride flat-ish paths with crushed limestone so while this isn't the ideal bike for me, I felt like I couldn't pass it up because my old bike is in rough shape. So far, I removed the clipless pedals that were on the bike as I do not have bike cleats. I also ordered a set of fast rolling tires as the current tires are extra knobby mountain tires. The bike is a hardtail and unfortunately I can't fully lockout the front suspension - it's probably better for my wrists but sucks while sprinting.
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My guess is that you are putting too much pressure on your hands so forget drop bars as they make you lean even more forward, increasing pressure. I would suggest looking into butterfly bars or something like an inversed moustache bar or Jones H-bar.
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Looking for suggestions on turning a MTB into a hybrid/road commuter, the issue I'm having right now is numb wrists & pinched nerves on any ride longer than ~15 miles. <stuff>
There can be many causes for hand pain/numbness. Is it on your pinky side or ring finger side? Is it in both hands equally or one side more than the other? You might be compressing/irritating the nerves in your hand, or you could be doing it further up in your elbow. Possible solutions: gloves, especially ones with a spot of padding between middle and ring finger to keep your hand and wrist splayed. Grips, like the ergon (http://www.ergon-bike.com/en/product.html?a=griffe#gpmtb-42410028) offerings, can spread your hand out and reduce shock. Having more hand positions, like with the bar ends, can reduce fatigue and pain by moving things around. Moving your seat back and down a little can take the pressure off your hands.
But... Probably the most likely suspect is that you're new to it. When you say things like "but I won't be on the brakes" it makes me think you are squeezing your grips instead of resting your hands on them. Your upper body should all be pretty relaxed, and that comes with experience. Also, as you get stronger you will support yourself more with your feet as you pedal more, and harder, which takes the pressure off your hands. So before spending more money, I'd try and see if it begins to get a little bit better with practice and strength. That being said, this is not an uncommon symptom for even experienced cyclists and part of the reason why there are multiple positions for hands on road bikes and on MTB with bar ends.
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This is my bike, I built it from scratch (even laced the wheels myself):
(http://i.imgur.com/19yH3VN.jpg)
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My guess is that you are putting too much pressure on your hands so forget drop bars as they make you lean even more forward, increasing pressure. I would suggest looking into butterfly bars or something like an inversed moustache bar or Jones H-bar.
Looking for suggestions on turning a MTB into a hybrid/road commuter, the issue I'm having right now is numb wrists & pinched nerves on any ride longer than ~15 miles. <stuff>
There can be many causes for hand pain/numbness. Is it on your pinky side or ring finger side? Is it in both hands equally or one side more than the other? You might be compressing/irritating the nerves in your hand, or you could be doing it further up in your elbow. Possible solutions: gloves, especially ones with a spot of padding between middle and ring finger to keep your hand and wrist splayed. Grips, like the ergon (http://www.ergon-bike.com/en/product.html?a=griffe#gpmtb-42410028) offerings, can spread your hand out and reduce shock. Having more hand positions, like with the bar ends, can reduce fatigue and pain by moving things around. Moving your seat back and down a little can take the pressure off your hands.
But... Probably the most likely suspect is that you're new to it. When you say things like "but I won't be on the brakes" it makes me think you are squeezing your grips instead of resting your hands on them. Your upper body should all be pretty relaxed, and that comes with experience. Also, as you get stronger you will support yourself more with your feet as you pedal more, and harder, which takes the pressure off your hands. So before spending more money, I'd try and see if it begins to get a little bit better with practice and strength. That being said, this is not an uncommon symptom for even experienced cyclists and part of the reason why there are multiple positions for hands on road bikes and on MTB with bar ends.
Thanks you two. I agree that my grip is quite possibly too tight. Also I haven't had a proper bike fitting so I still need to trial & error to figure out what works best for me. Numbness is happening on both hands equally, almost always along the entire bottom of my hand directly above the wrist and sometimes in the tips of my fingers. So I'm thinking I'm pinching both the ulnar & carpal nerve (thanks, google!). Thanks for the tip on the gloves & Ergon grips. If for some reason loosening my grip doesn't seem to make a difference on my next ride I'll pick up those ergons. I'm surprised that the guy at my local bike shop recommended thin gloves to me after I specifically mentioned having pinched nerves.
In other news I picked up a Giro Phase helmet today. I've been borrowing my roommates' helmet and I've apparently inspired him to get back on bike again so I needed a helmet of my own.
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My guess is that you are putting too much pressure on your hands so forget drop bars as they make you lean even more forward, increasing pressure. I would suggest looking into butterfly bars or something like an inversed moustache bar or Jones H-bar.
Looking for suggestions on turning a MTB into a hybrid/road commuter, the issue I'm having right now is numb wrists & pinched nerves on any ride longer than ~15 miles. <stuff>
There can be many causes for hand pain/numbness. Is it on your pinky side or ring finger side? Is it in both hands equally or one side more than the other? You might be compressing/irritating the nerves in your hand, or you could be doing it further up in your elbow. Possible solutions: gloves, especially ones with a spot of padding between middle and ring finger to keep your hand and wrist splayed. Grips, like the ergon (http://www.ergon-bike.com/en/product.html?a=griffe#gpmtb-42410028) offerings, can spread your hand out and reduce shock. Having more hand positions, like with the bar ends, can reduce fatigue and pain by moving things around. Moving your seat back and down a little can take the pressure off your hands.
But... Probably the most likely suspect is that you're new to it. When you say things like "but I won't be on the brakes" it makes me think you are squeezing your grips instead of resting your hands on them. Your upper body should all be pretty relaxed, and that comes with experience. Also, as you get stronger you will support yourself more with your feet as you pedal more, and harder, which takes the pressure off your hands. So before spending more money, I'd try and see if it begins to get a little bit better with practice and strength. That being said, this is not an uncommon symptom for even experienced cyclists and part of the reason why there are multiple positions for hands on road bikes and on MTB with bar ends.
Thanks you two. I agree that my grip is quite possibly too tight. Also I haven't had a proper bike fitting so I still need to trial & error to figure out what works best for me. Numbness is happening on both hands equally, almost always along the entire bottom of my hand directly above the wrist and sometimes in the tips of my fingers. So I'm thinking I'm pinching both the ulnar & carpal nerve (thanks, google!). Thanks for the tip on the gloves & Ergon grips. If for some reason loosening my grip doesn't seem to make a difference on my next ride I'll pick up those ergons. I'm surprised that the guy at my local bike shop recommended thin gloves to me after I specifically mentioned having pinched nerves.
In other news I picked up a Giro Phase helmet today. I've been borrowing my roommates' helmet and I've apparently inspired him to get back on bike again so I needed a helmet of my own.
Do you cycle with your arms straightened?
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More
My guess is that you are putting too much pressure on your hands so forget drop bars as they make you lean even more forward, increasing pressure. I would suggest looking into butterfly bars or something like an inversed moustache bar or Jones H-bar.
Looking for suggestions on turning a MTB into a hybrid/road commuter, the issue I'm having right now is numb wrists & pinched nerves on any ride longer than ~15 miles. <stuff>
There can be many causes for hand pain/numbness. Is it on your pinky side or ring finger side? Is it in both hands equally or one side more than the other? You might be compressing/irritating the nerves in your hand, or you could be doing it further up in your elbow. Possible solutions: gloves, especially ones with a spot of padding between middle and ring finger to keep your hand and wrist splayed. Grips, like the ergon (http://www.ergon-bike.com/en/product.html?a=griffe#gpmtb-42410028) offerings, can spread your hand out and reduce shock. Having more hand positions, like with the bar ends, can reduce fatigue and pain by moving things around. Moving your seat back and down a little can take the pressure off your hands.
But... Probably the most likely suspect is that you're new to it. When you say things like "but I won't be on the brakes" it makes me think you are squeezing your grips instead of resting your hands on them. Your upper body should all be pretty relaxed, and that comes with experience. Also, as you get stronger you will support yourself more with your feet as you pedal more, and harder, which takes the pressure off your hands. So before spending more money, I'd try and see if it begins to get a little bit better with practice and strength. That being said, this is not an uncommon symptom for even experienced cyclists and part of the reason why there are multiple positions for hands on road bikes and on MTB with bar ends.
Thanks you two. I agree that my grip is quite possibly too tight. Also I haven't had a proper bike fitting so I still need to trial & error to figure out what works best for me. Numbness is happening on both hands equally, almost always along the entire bottom of my hand directly above the wrist and sometimes in the tips of my fingers. So I'm thinking I'm pinching both the ulnar & carpal nerve (thanks, google!). Thanks for the tip on the gloves & Ergon grips. If for some reason loosening my grip doesn't seem to make a difference on my next ride I'll pick up those ergons. I'm surprised that the guy at my local bike shop recommended thin gloves to me after I specifically mentioned having pinched nerves.
In other news I picked up a Giro Phase helmet today. I've been borrowing my roommates' helmet and I've apparently inspired him to get back on bike again so I needed a helmet of my own.
No, there is a bend in my elbow and I never lock out my arms. I took a short 10-12 miler (19km) last night with a soft grip and moved my hands around every 5 minutes. I feel fine today. We'll see how it goes during a longer ride but hopefully I'm just an idiot who learned how to grip the handlebars the hard way.
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I might move my hands more frequently than every 5 minutes though.
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Got a barely used xercise bike for $10 off craigslist.. old man moving to northern california..
Biking Costs:
Put on Pants, Socks, Shoes, x2
Garage Door open/close, x2
Take bike on off rack, x2
~ 10-15 minutes all together just for the non-exercise portion
Exercise bike..
Underwear,
Get on bike..
25 minutes, and you're done..
This biking thing represents a significant time cost.. Time of which is irrecuperable
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Finally finish building my bike. A soma smoothy with go fast bits.[attachimg=1]
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Finally finish building my bike. A soma smoothy with go fast bits. (Attachment Link)
That looks dope
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I'm starting to build myself a fixie for town riding. Currently browsing craigslist for vintage steel frames. Anyone have recommendations for good budget fixed cranksets?
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I'm starting to build myself a fixie for town riding. Currently browsing craigslist for vintage steel frames. Anyone have recommendations for good budget fixed cranksets?
Sugino (cheap/good quality)
SRAM (middle ground/great all around performance and no flex)
Phil wood (baller/bling)
Paul components (baller/bling)
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I'm starting to build myself a fixie for town riding. Currently browsing craigslist for vintage steel frames. Anyone have recommendations for good budget fixed cranksets?
Sugino (cheap/good quality)
SRAM (middle ground/great all around performance and no flex)
Phil wood (baller/bling)
Paul components (baller/bling)
awesome! I had kind of already found my way to suginos, but its nice to have the assurance that they're actually good considering the prices I'm looking at.
I'm looking at a samurai shogun bike on CL for like $150, seems like a pretty great deal to me, but I'd love input on that as well.
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I'm starting to build myself a fixie for town riding. Currently browsing craigslist for vintage steel frames. Anyone have recommendations for good budget fixed cranksets?
Sugino (cheap/good quality)
SRAM (middle ground/great all around performance and no flex)
Phil wood (baller/bling)
Paul components (baller/bling)
awesome! I had kind of already found my way to suginos, but its nice to have the assurance that they're actually good considering the prices I'm looking at.
I'm looking at a samurai shogun bike on CL for like $150, seems like a pretty great deal to me, but I'd love input on that as well.
I went for the sram s300 on my previous bike. Make sure it's 165mm or you won't clear corners and that your crank fit your frame (not so much with bb but with the crank arm hitting the frame. Happened to a friend of mine.)
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I'm starting to build myself a fixie for town riding. Currently browsing craigslist for vintage steel frames. Anyone have recommendations for good budget fixed cranksets?
Sugino (cheap/good quality)
SRAM (middle ground/great all around performance and no flex)
Phil wood (baller/bling)
Paul components (baller/bling)
Theres no reason to go something other than sugino unless you want something in particular. They are well made, and good enough to race. Granted the 75 is a touch more, but it's what I have on my track bike and I've never found it lacking in any way.
I don't recognize that bike brand, and there doesn't seem to be a ton of info around on it. I'd personally avoid anything with a strange name. Things to look for on a fixie conversion:
Bottom bracket thread: You want english threaded 68mm. Italian will unthread itself. French will both unthread itself and be the wrong size for everything.
Rear spacing and dropout length: You want dropouts to be as long and horizontal as they can be and the spacing to be no more than 126mm. You are already going to cold-set it down to 120 for a track hub. Further than that is not what I would consider safe.
Pay more for a good frame with all of the right stuff. You will end up sinking way, way more buying a very cheap frame that you then need to find goofy parts for and trial and error stuff to get it to fit. Ask me about my old french bike with a cottered crank that I used the cottered cups, a dura ace tandem BB spindle and a nuovo record headset... so much money and work for a $25 frame...
awesome! I had kind of already found my way to suginos, but its nice to have the assurance that they're actually good considering the prices I'm looking at.
I'm looking at a samurai shogun bike on CL for like $150, seems like a pretty great deal to me, but I'd love input on that as well.
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I'm starting to build myself a fixie for town riding. Currently browsing craigslist for vintage steel frames. Anyone have recommendations for good budget fixed cranksets?
Sugino (cheap/good quality)
SRAM (middle ground/great all around performance and no flex)
Phil wood (baller/bling)
Paul components (baller/bling)
awesome! I had kind of already found my way to suginos, but its nice to have the assurance that they're actually good considering the prices I'm looking at.
I'm looking at a samurai shogun bike on CL for like $150, seems like a pretty great deal to me, but I'd love input on that as well.
I went for the sram s300 on my previous bike. Make sure it's 165mm or you won't clear corners and that your crank fit your frame (not so much with bb but with the crank arm hitting the frame. Happened to a friend of mine.)
If any crank hits your frame up to something dumb like a 195mm custom crank you have the wrong BB spindle length. I would also check immediately to verify that the chainline is correct (cog and chainring on exactly the same plane). A bad chainline on a fixed gear is a very, very dangerous situation. If a 170/175mm crank hits your chainstay and you have a good chainline then your frame was constructed very much incorrectly or has been badly bent.
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I tried fixie for a while and just couldn't get into it. Imagine a [at the time] 300 pounder riding a skinny ass Debernardi - ugh. I totally understand why folks use their legs to brake on this bike. Even with front/rear brakes my mind immediately wanted to use my legs instead.
Any of you try out that new 2 speed automatic hub? This sounds promising.
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new old bike...new paint... will post more later.
but i just got a sweet headbadge.
water drops on the top tube...
dipped yellow/blue swirl chain stay...
going to dip the fork also. orange/neonpink.
gota love those rattle cans.
(http://i.imgur.com/2NJTtcQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/y2IPFP8.jpg)
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Picked up this Gazelle Grand Tourist bike yesterday.
(http://i.imgur.com/TM26quqh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/TM26quq)
(http://i.imgur.com/toe3lp9h.jpg) (http://imgur.com/toe3lp9)
Bought it to turn it into a touring bike. These Sturmey Archer hub + drum brake bikes are really low drag and low maintenance.
Planning to put a drop bar + bar-end shifter and a different saddle on it together with a nice chrome front carrier rack.
Might even paint it blue at some point but I'd have to check the price on that. And I'm kind if digging the stickers on it.
More
(http://i.imgur.com/ETLSVxNh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ETLSVxN)
(http://i.imgur.com/YdLq1xmh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/YdLq1xm)
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I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value
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I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value
These go for about €60-80 (http://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?query=Gazelle+grand+tourist) over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion (http://www.fixiemag.com/classics/fixiemag-classics-gazelle/).
But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.
After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack (https://www.pelagobicycles.com/store/accessories/baskets-and-racks/pelago-commuter-front-rack.html) or a fancy Pass and Stow (http://passstow.com/home) one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack (http://www.urbix-berlin.de/) on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.
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(http://i.imgur.com/bWiYaWl.jpg)
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I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value
These go for about €60-80 (http://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?query=Gazelle+grand+tourist) over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion (http://www.fixiemag.com/classics/fixiemag-classics-gazelle/).
But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.
After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack (https://www.pelagobicycles.com/store/accessories/baskets-and-racks/pelago-commuter-front-rack.html) or a fancy Pass and Stow (http://passstow.com/home) one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack (http://www.urbix-berlin.de/) on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.
The fork does not appear to have any of the rackmounts needed, unless I'm missing something.
Also, I don't have the geometry charts, but you have to watch the trail if you're planning on loaded touring. The rim dyno is sweet though.
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Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/bWiYaWl.jpg)
lol @ the training wheels
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I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value
These go for about €60-80 (http://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?query=Gazelle+grand+tourist) over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion (http://www.fixiemag.com/classics/fixiemag-classics-gazelle/).
But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.
After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack (https://www.pelagobicycles.com/store/accessories/baskets-and-racks/pelago-commuter-front-rack.html) or a fancy Pass and Stow (http://passstow.com/home) one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack (http://www.urbix-berlin.de/) on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.
The fork does not appear to have any of the rackmounts needed, unless I'm missing something.
Also, I don't have the geometry charts, but you have to watch the trail if you're planning on loaded touring. The rim dyno is sweet though.
The Pelago has the parts to mount it in the fender eyelets or dropouts as well.
I don't think there are any geometry charts for this bike available anymore. Seeing as how it is probably from the 70's. That being said, it is still a pretty low-trail bike so no handed riding is easy.
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I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value
These go for about €60-80 (http://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?query=Gazelle+grand+tourist) over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion (http://www.fixiemag.com/classics/fixiemag-classics-gazelle/).
But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.
After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack (https://www.pelagobicycles.com/store/accessories/baskets-and-racks/pelago-commuter-front-rack.html) or a fancy Pass and Stow (http://passstow.com/home) one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack (http://www.urbix-berlin.de/) on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.
The fork does not appear to have any of the rackmounts needed, unless I'm missing something.
Also, I don't have the geometry charts, but you have to watch the trail if you're planning on loaded touring. The rim dyno is sweet though.
The Pelago has the parts to mount it in the fender eyelets or dropouts as well.
I don't think there are any geometry charts for this bike available anymore. Seeing as how it is probably from the 70's. That being said, it is still a pretty low-trail bike so no handed riding is easy.
Higher trail allows for more stability at speed, especially with an unloaded wheel (i.e. hands not on the bars). The most extreme example is the steher bikes, that have more or less inverted forks to allow for tons of stability at very high speeds.
The issue you will find with standard trail when loaded is wheel flop at low speeds and increased fatigue while turning. The higher the trail the more the front end of a bike actually dips down when turning the wheel. It's not noticeable until you put a bunch of extra weight over the wheel that you're now lifting and lowering every time you turn. if your pack is light, then it's not a big deal. If you're going on a multi day tour and your relying on your front pack to carry most/all of your gear, you might find it unpleasant. But true low trail bikes are not great handling bikes when unloaded, so if you're packing light, or using it unloaded often, low trail isn't a feature, as in those cases it's less stable.
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(http://i.imgur.com/qIkkvu6.jpg)
Picked up my first road bike yesterday, '09 Fuji Roubaix Pro! The owner said he put fewer than 500 miles on it before buying a triathlon bike and was even willing to drop the price a few bucks because I came to him to pick it up, so I feel like I got a great deal. I took it out for a few miles...holy crap is it different than riding on a mountain bike or cruiser (duh I guess). My first impressions were that it is unbelievably light and fast but also rigid & twitchy. I don't feel comfortable positioning my hands on the drops yet, but on top of the hoods felt fine. I'm impressed that the shifters & brakes are integrated so closely together but I've already braked when I accidentally meant to shift, I need to train my brain on that. I noticed myself taking corners differently and anticipating braking earlier.
Are SPD instead of SPD-SL shoes fine? I currently have pedals for both but think I'll be fine losing some performance the SL provides for the flexibility/comfort that SPD has. I love the idea of having one pair of shoes for both my bikes as well as being able to walk around like a normal person. I have no plans to do any sort of racing, just some long rides.
Also do any of you take your road bike out on crushed limestone trails? I see people doing it near me frequently but I'm guessing they bought new tires and stay away from bumps on the trail.
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Congrats. If all you have ever known is MTB and "comfort" bikes, the efficiency of a road bike will blow you away.
Remember that SPD-SLs require a 3 bolt pattern for cleats and SPD pedals benefit from shoes with a sole (allowing for more stability on the pedal). I'd just run SPDs. Having too many shoes is a pain. I use crankbros eggbeaters on all my bikes except for my track bike, where I run SPD-SLs cranked all the way with a toe strap.
You *can* ride your bike wherever you want, and I've taken my road racing bike on twisty singletrack to take a shortcut home. Riding gravel and dirt roads is most comfortable with a 28-34c width tire. I doubt you can fit bigger than a 25c on that bike. It still could be fun if your gravel roads are well maintained. I find the continental gatorskin 25c tire to be comfortable enough, extremely durable, and good in all conditions. It's what I keep on my training ride wheels.
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Remember that SPD-SLs require a 3 bolt pattern for cleats and SPD pedals benefit from shoes with a sole (allowing for more stability on the pedal). I'd just run SPDs. Having too many shoes is a pain. I use crankbros eggbeaters on all my bikes except for my track bike, where I run SPD-SLs cranked all the way with a toe strap.
You *can* ride your bike wherever you want, and I've taken my road racing bike on twisty singletrack to take a shortcut home. Riding gravel and dirt roads is most comfortable with a 28-34c width tire. I doubt you can fit bigger than a 25c on that bike. It still could be fun if your gravel roads are well maintained. I find the continental gatorskin 25c tire to be comfortable enough, extremely durable, and good in all conditions. It's what I keep on my training ride wheels.
Thanks for the reply. I think I will end up with SPDs so I don't have to worry about having two pairs of shoes. That's not really in my budget anyway.
I asked about riding on limestone/gravel trails because I'm not sure how much of a beating a road bike can take, specifically one with a carbon fork & stem. For example, there are a few sections of my limestone trail that aren't maintained that well (potholes & MTB tracks) as well as bridges that you can't exactly traverse smoothly. Even when I took a quick spin on the road there was a fair amount of uneven pavement that made me uneasy hitting it going fast. I suspect I'm just being too cautious because my new shiny toy doesn't feel nearly as sturdy as my MTB.
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Even when I took a quick spin on the road there was a fair amount of uneven pavement that made me uneasy hitting it going fast. I suspect I'm just being too cautious because my new shiny toy doesn't feel nearly as sturdy as my MTB.
The short answer is that the bike is fine, probably.
The longer answer is that thee is some danger that if you hit something hard you'll wreck the wheels or a fork. Since you MTB, you know the importance of unweighting the bike when going over rocks or choppy stuff. So long as you aren't just ramming into stuff you're ok. This is also assuming the bike is in good repair (wheels true under even tension, bolts are torqued to spec, fork expansion nut is installed correctly, headset correctly loaded, etc.)
But if you know how to ride a bike, you can ride it anywhere:
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More
Even when I took a quick spin on the road there was a fair amount of uneven pavement that made me uneasy hitting it going fast. I suspect I'm just being too cautious because my new shiny toy doesn't feel nearly as sturdy as my MTB.
The short answer is that the bike is fine, probably.
But if you know how to ride a bike, you can ride it anywhere:
Good points, thanks again. Those guys are effin monsters!
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Got this baby out last night:
(http://i.imgur.com/G5u6j8g.jpg)
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Got this baby out last night:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/G5u6j8g.jpg)
Sweet ride. :thumb:
The Pelago has the parts to mount it in the fender eyelets or dropouts as well.
I don't think there are any geometry charts for this bike available anymore. Seeing as how it is probably from the 70's. That being said, it is still a pretty low-trail bike so no handed riding is easy.
Higher trail allows for more stability at speed, especially with an unloaded wheel (i.e. hands not on the bars). The most extreme example is the steher bikes, that have more or less inverted forks to allow for tons of stability at very high speeds.
The issue you will find with standard trail when loaded is wheel flop at low speeds and increased fatigue while turning. The higher the trail the more the front end of a bike actually dips down when turning the wheel. It's not noticeable until you put a bunch of extra weight over the wheel that you're now lifting and lowering every time you turn. if your pack is light, then it's not a big deal. If you're going on a multi day tour and your relying on your front pack to carry most/all of your gear, you might find it unpleasant. But true low trail bikes are not great handling bikes when unloaded, so if you're packing light, or using it unloaded often, low trail isn't a feature, as in those cases it's less stable.
It's a bit tricky to measure but it seems like it has a trail of 45mm or so. Decidedly low trail it seems. Pretty much what I am used to. We will see what happens when I attach a rack after the summer and load it up. :)
For now I am just getting the bike in top working order and those old English hubs can be fickle but at least they are easy to take apart. :))
(http://i.imgur.com/xnoWrPmh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/xnoWrPm)
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Got this bad boy two weeks ago. Went for a small off-road ride last weekend. Need to get a bit more aggressive tires for off-road but it's a beast already, at least for me. Rolls smooth like butter. :)
(http://i.imgur.com/8K8srTw.jpg)
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Got this bad boy two weeks ago. Went for a small off-road ride last weekend. Need to get a bit more aggressive tires for off-road but it's a beast already, at least for me. Rolls smooth like butter. :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/8K8srTw.jpg)
That is a really nice looking bike.
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Got this bad boy two weeks ago. Went for a small off-road ride last weekend. Need to get a bit more aggressive tires for off-road but it's a beast already, at least for me. Rolls smooth like butter. :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/8K8srTw.jpg)
That is a really nice looking bike.
Thanks! :)
Got a great deal at Wiggle bike shop and wanted something that looked good, was my size and could be modified to all weather/riding conditions. The frame allows me to add mudguards/bike racks and has a clearance of 45mm. So it can be a touring bike and a CX bike depending on the needs.
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Went outside today to fix the bicycle tires..
How important is it to make sure the Inner tube is rotated precisely..
I feel like I can't get a gauge on whether the tube is perfectly aligned with the side wall..
I've adjusted the valve part so I know it's at least properly oriented @ the valve, but the rest of the tube.
How do I know the rest of the tube is rotated correctly.
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it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat
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it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat
Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related
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it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat
Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related
Some people will powder their tubes, but I don't and it's not necessary. If you have *really* tight tires (I mean breaking tire lever tight) using some soapy water on the bead can help it go on. You never want to use any persistent lubricant around rims, as it can get on the braking surface and keep you from stopping.
Additional tips: start feeding the bead in away from the valve stem. This allows you to do the final part at the stem, which allows you to push the tube up and away from the bead and keeping it from getting pinched. It can help to inflate the tire a little bit (just to seat the bead) and then let the air out and just kind of squeeze along the tire letting the tube settle in place before fully inflating.
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it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat
Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related
Some people will powder their tubes, but I don't and it's not necessary. If you have *really* tight tires (I mean breaking tire lever tight) using some soapy water on the bead can help it go on. You never want to use any persistent lubricant around rims, as it can get on the braking surface and keep you from stopping.
Additional tips: start feeding the bead in away from the valve stem. This allows you to do the final part at the stem, which allows you to push the tube up and away from the bead and keeping it from getting pinched. It can help to inflate the tire a little bit (just to seat the bead) and then let the air out and just kind of squeeze along the tire letting the tube settle in place before fully inflating.
Can you clarify, what is " the bead "
Is the powder to help the tube seat more easily with the side wall ?
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it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat
Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related
Some people will powder their tubes, but I don't and it's not necessary. If you have *really* tight tires (I mean breaking tire lever tight) using some soapy water on the bead can help it go on. You never want to use any persistent lubricant around rims, as it can get on the braking surface and keep you from stopping.
Additional tips: start feeding the bead in away from the valve stem. This allows you to do the final part at the stem, which allows you to push the tube up and away from the bead and keeping it from getting pinched. It can help to inflate the tire a little bit (just to seat the bead) and then let the air out and just kind of squeeze along the tire letting the tube settle in place before fully inflating.
Can you clarify, what is " the bead "
Is the powder to help the tube seat more easily with the side wall ?
The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.
Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.
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The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.
Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.
What kind of powder,
I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..
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The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.
Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.
What kind of powder,
I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..
Talcum/baby powder.
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The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.
Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.
What kind of powder,
I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..
Talcum/baby powder.
CAN i use flour ?
These tubes already cost me $6 each
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The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.
Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.
What kind of powder,
I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..
Talcum/baby powder.
CAN i use flour ?
These tubes already cost me $6 each
Nah, it will make a mess. You don't need powder. I don't ever use it.
Here, this is a good video. Ignore the part about the rim band at the beginning. You already have one installed.
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The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.
Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.
What kind of powder,
I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..
Talcum/baby powder.
CAN i use flour ?
These tubes already cost me $6 each
Nah, it will make a mess. You don't need powder. I don't ever use it.
Here, this is a good video. Ignore the part about the rim band at the beginning. You already have one installed.
Woah... the production quality on that one..
Now I'm bike conscious because my wheel doesn't look nearly as nice as that one.. (http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/desperate1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862499)
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The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.
Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.
What kind of powder,
I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..
Talcum/baby powder.
CAN i use flour ?
These tubes already cost me $6 each
Nah, it will make a mess. You don't need powder. I don't ever use it.
Here, this is a good video. Ignore the part about the rim band at the beginning. You already have one installed.
Woah... the production quality on that one..
Now I'm bike conscious because my wheel doesn't look nearly as nice as that one.. Show Image
(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/desperate1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862499)
If you think thats a nice rim you dont wanna see carbon ones especially ones from the brand lightweight
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Woah... the production quality on that one..
Now I'm bike conscious because my wheel doesn't look nearly as nice as that one.. Show Image
(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/desperate1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862499)
If you think thats a nice rim you dont wanna see carbon ones especially ones from the brand lightweight
Thanks for the headsup, I'm definitely not going to google it.
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Used bike this morning.. Felt fine.. no exploding..
The tubes says self sealing against punctures, it's got a picture of this -liquid inside the tube on the box..
Will this liquid come out of the valve if I'm letting the air out when I over pump?
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Used bike this morning.. Felt fine.. no exploding..
The tubes says self sealing against punctures, it's got a picture of this -liquid inside the tube on the box..
Will this liquid come out of the valve if I'm letting the air out when I over pump?
Just buy regular tubes if your roads are not rough and super bumpy. If you tire is inflated to the correct psi then you shouldn't get flats unless something like a nail goes through your tire. If your tube isn't rip to shreds then a normal partch kit should be able to patch the hole. And to answer your questions is no it shouldn't unless you are really trying to squeeze the stuff out.
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How do I determine ideal tire pressure..
What am I feeling for ..
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How do I determine ideal tire pressure..
What am I feeling for ..
read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi
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How do I determine ideal tire pressure..
What am I feeling for ..
What size are the tires? It will be marked either as something like 700x23c or 27x1.5"
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How do I determine ideal tire pressure..
What am I feeling for ..
read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi
Yea, but there's that thing...
where they say even though you get less rolling resistance with higher psi, because of the increase in bouncing, you lose that efficiency..
It's all very confusing, because I don't see how this could be empirically measured outside of the lab..
Short of me riding 100s of trials.. Which would take years...
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How do I determine ideal tire pressure..
What am I feeling for ..
read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi
Yea, but there's that thing...
where they say even though you get less rolling resistance with higher psi, because of the increase in bouncing, you lose that efficiency..
It's all very confusing, because I don't see how this could be empirically measured outside of the lab..
Short of me riding 100s of trials.. Which would take years...
Think about it this way. The higher the psi the less likely your tire is going to conform to the road ( a smooth one ) and the faster you go because less surface area is touching the road. But if you take this principle and apply it to a bumpy road the high psi tire is not going to conform to little bumps and pebbles. Instead of riding floating over bumps you will be riding on top of them hence making you slower. That why most road cyclist ride anywhere from 90 - 180psi and mountains bikers with a lower psi of anywhere from 30 - 50 psi.
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How do I determine ideal tire pressure..
What am I feeling for ..
read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi
Yea, but there's that thing...
where they say even though you get less rolling resistance with higher psi, because of the increase in bouncing, you lose that efficiency..
It's all very confusing, because I don't see how this could be empirically measured outside of the lab..
Short of me riding 100s of trials.. Which would take years...
You don't have to perform experiments, they already have. You're right (I think, the sentence is confusing) that a tire with some flexibility has a lower rolling resistance because it's not getting bounced around by every little imperfection in the road. These are tiny, tiny forces and probably aren't noticeable by humans. What is more noticeable is the substatial improvement in ride quality and comfort when your tire is correctly acting as a form of suspension.
Generally speaking, unless you're racing on an indoor World Cup level velodrome, you want to run your tires as low as you can without getting pinch flats. Typically this is the bottom of the range listed on the tire. Usually around 100psi for 23c tires, 90 for 25c, 30 for 2.3" MTB tires... and so on. If you're heavier, you might need a little more (like 5psi). This is hard to do by feel because the stiffness of the tire can fool you.
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Anyone else been watching La Vuelta?
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Anyone else been watching La Vuelta?
Not worth watching any bikerace without the almighty pantani!
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I generally avoid posting my bikes here because it would be something like posting your OTD in a thread of people talking about their favorite production mechanical, but I'm a super excited my new bike is finally done. It's been somewhere around 3 years since I started the order. The builder just finished it and took some pictures before boxing it up to send it my way:
(http://www.winterbicycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/DSC_5324-1024x1280-580x482.jpg)(http://www.winterbicycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/DSC_5292-1280x1025-580x482.jpg)
Progress shots can be found in a gallery here. (https://www.flickr.com/photos/22538785@N05/sets/72157666777967051)
The last time I was hit by a car (yes... more than once) I broke my clavicle and it never healed, even after surgery and a plate. I'm mostly OK, I have full range of motion, but I can't wear a backpack while riding anymore. So I went with the most overkill possible solution. I'll be doing my ~23mi commute each way a few days a week again, and I'm super stoked.
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What makes a good bicycle..
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I generally avoid posting my bikes here because it would be something like posting your OTD in a thread of people talking about their favorite production mechanical, but I'm a super excited my new bike is finally done. It's been somewhere around 3 years since I started the order. The builder just finished it and took some pictures before boxing it up to send it my way:
Show Image
(http://www.winterbicycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/DSC_5324-1024x1280-580x482.jpg)
Show Image
(http://www.winterbicycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/DSC_5292-1280x1025-580x482.jpg)
Progress shots can be found in a gallery here. (https://www.flickr.com/photos/22538785@N05/sets/72157666777967051)
The last time I was hit by a car (yes... more than once) I broke my clavicle and it never healed, even after surgery and a plate. I'm mostly OK, I have full range of motion, but I can't wear a backpack while riding anymore. So I went with the most overkill possible solution. I'll be doing my ~23mi commute each way a few days a week again, and I'm super stoked.
Wow :cool: that looks amazing. Prob cost an arm and a leg ( a clavicle for you XD)
geared hub or motor can really tell with the pictures
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Cool Bikes guys!
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[attach=1]
Here's my "bike".
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Wow :cool: that looks amazing. Prob cost an arm and a leg ( a clavicle for you XD)
geared hub or motor can really tell with the pictures
It's the Di2 Alfine internally geared hub. No motor.
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Wow :cool: that looks amazing. Prob cost an arm and a leg ( a clavicle for you XD)
geared hub or motor can really tell with the pictures
It's the Di2 Alfine internally geared hub. No motor.
at least its geared! You weren't crazy enough to ride around on a cargo fixie bike.
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(Attachment Link)
Here's my "bike".
Way too shiny. Straight outta dealership or just cleaning freak
Anyway. On topic, finally decided on a winter ride; Commencal meta. It's fun as hell.
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Just put some new 28mm tires on my project bike;
(http://i.imgur.com/Mtg2zYeh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/Mtg2zYe)
Schwalbe Delta Cruiser gumwalls.
At just €11 per piece I just couldn't leave them. Though I wonder if the whitewalls would have looked better.
Then I was just reading up on the Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs... and I came across this:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8252/8554241017_2a0264e91d_b.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/e2UHQ6)PICT0004 (https://flic.kr/p/e2UHQ6) by CraigWales (https://www.flickr.com/photos/31231726@N03/), on Flickr
A 3-speed IGh combined with a 3-speed derailleur for a larger range! :eek:
(http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/frustrated.gif)
And I might even have a parts/project bike in the basement that has all the necessary parts! ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/T7oawBdh.png) (http://imgur.com/T7oawBd)
Sprockets are dirt cheap (https://hollandbikeshop.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=sturmey+archer+tandwiel) anyway so this might be a fun project for next week.
So all that is left on the shopping list:
- Basil Portland (https://www.basil.nl/product/basil-portland-front-carrier-mr/) front carrier
- B+M Cyo Senso Plus chrome (https://www.bikester.nl/busch-u-mueller-lumotec-iq-cyo-senso-plus-fietsdynamo-grijs-364343.html)
- B+M Secula Plus (http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-ruecklicht/secula.html) rear light
- Perhaps some cork grips or a dropbar and new stem.
-
(http://i.imgur.com/IbasKGsh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/IbasKGs)
So I modified the bike to be able to use a derailleur. :p
(http://i.imgur.com/z9uhxFFh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/z9uhxFF)
(http://i.imgur.com/sSpHiIMh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/sSpHiIM)
(http://i.imgur.com/D3Zcgbxh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/D3Zcgbx)
With the exception of a 16T cog (the 28T will arrive next week) all of this was with stuff that had laying around.
Moved around some of the cables and stripped them where the original braze-ons would make more sense. Looks really good to just have cables running around.
Took some fiddling around to make sure the rear derailleur didn't commit suicide. It had a tendency to dive into the spokes. :twitchy:
On the first testdrive it felt really good... but it tried to eat the chain. Probably still a bit too long. :))
For those that understand:
(http://i.imgur.com/Plp1Qqoh.png) (http://imgur.com/Plp1Qqo)
Current gearing
(http://i.imgur.com/9L7x79Dh.png) (http://imgur.com/9L7x79D)
Future gearing
-
Current gearing
(http://i.imgur.com/9L7x79Dh.png) (http://imgur.com/9L7x79D)
Future gearing
Looking pretty good. Love that you kept the retro look going.
-
Current gearing
(http://i.imgur.com/9L7x79Dh.png) (http://imgur.com/9L7x79D)
Future gearing
Looking pretty good. Love that you kept the retro look going.
Thanks. :)
I'm not trying to make it all period correct. It's supposed to be a practical tourer for around the country. But I thought it would be a shame to just toss on all modern parts.
And I couldn't resist the shine of those 90mm drum brakes. ;)
-
16 to 28 is a huge jump. It might not work exactly as you have planned. Sometimes adding a washer is helpful between the derailleur and the frame to both keep the mech out of the spokes and get the geometry right for a big rear cog. When you say "eating the chain" do you mean chain suck, or...? Length of chain shouldn't have an impact here unless you have zero tension on it.
You will want to keep up the maintence on those drum hubs and make sure you are using the right kind of grease. Drum and coaster hubs have specific lube requirements. Love the bottle dyno.
-
16 to 28 is a huge jump. It might not work exactly as you have planned. Sometimes adding a washer is helpful between the derailleur and the frame to both keep the mech out of the spokes and get the geometry right for a big rear cog. When you say "eating the chain" do you mean chain suck, or...? Length of chain shouldn't have an impact here unless you have zero tension on it.
You will want to keep up the maintence on those drum hubs and make sure you are using the right kind of grease. Drum and coaster hubs have specific lube requirements. Love the bottle dyno.
I know. It's going to be interesting to see if it works or not. But the washer is a good idea. Otherwise I'll have to figure out if I can grind down some of the sprockets for a third cog in between.
As to the "eating the chain", it fell off and wrapped itself around the rear axle. The chain itself hasn't been shortened yet so it's probably a lack of tension. Just slapped on the 114 link chain to see if it worked. Probably fell off when I hit a big bump. I'll wait until the big sprocket comes in to shorten it.
I'm aware of the special needs of Shimano's roller brakes. Really good brakes but you need a special grease to increase their stopping power.
The Sturmey Archer brake hubs don't need any grease as far as I can tell. Just keep them clean (http://mccraw.co.uk/sturmey-archer-drum-brake-routine-service/) and grease the pawls and springs inside. They also have the added benefit of having basically no drag when you are riding because the brake shoe completely disengages.
I'm planning on putting some modern, but good-looking, lights on there. Probably a silver B+M Cyo (https://www.bikester.nl/busch-u-mueller-lumotec-iq-cyo-senso-plus-fietsdynamo-grijs-364343.html#rating) (60 lux) with a Secula Plus (https://www.bikester.nl/solden/fietsaccessoires/364510.html) in the rear. Similar to what I have on my current bike. Though a silver B+M IQ-X (https://www.bikester.nl/476490.html) would probably fit as well and 100 lux from a dynamo light is amazing.
The current dynamo is a 12V 6W, so I'll have to check if that plays nice with modern LEDs which are designed for 3W.
The best looking dynamo I've found so far is the Velogical (http://www.velogical-engineering.com/rim-dynamo-en-1) rim dynamo but those are in the price/quality range of SON dynohubs... Maybe in the future. :P
Just made an album on IMGur (http://imgur.com/a/y0ojX) so I can easily refer to all the pictures if anyone is interested.
-
16 to 28 is a huge jump. It might not work exactly as you have planned. Sometimes adding a washer is helpful between the derailleur and the frame to both keep the mech out of the spokes and get the geometry right for a big rear cog. When you say "eating the chain" do you mean chain suck, or...? Length of chain shouldn't have an impact here unless you have zero tension on it.
You will want to keep up the maintence on those drum hubs and make sure you are using the right kind of grease. Drum and coaster hubs have specific lube requirements. Love the bottle dyno.
I know. It's going to be interesting to see if it works or not. But the washer is a good idea. Otherwise I'll have to figure out if I can grind down some of the sprockets for a third cog in between.
As to the "eating the chain", it fell off and wrapped itself around the rear axle. The chain itself hasn't been shortened yet so it's probably a lack of tension. Just slapped on the 114 link chain to see if it worked. Probably fell off when I hit a big bump. I'll wait until the big sprocket comes in to shorten it.
I'm aware of the special needs of Shimano's roller brakes. Really good brakes but you need a special grease to increase their stopping power.
The Sturmey Archer brake hubs don't need any grease as far as I can tell. Just keep them clean (http://mccraw.co.uk/sturmey-archer-drum-brake-routine-service/) and grease the pawls and springs inside. They also have the added benefit of having basically no drag when you are riding because the brake shoe completely disengages.
I'm planning on putting some modern, but good-looking, lights on there. Probably a silver B+M Cyo (https://www.bikester.nl/busch-u-mueller-lumotec-iq-cyo-senso-plus-fietsdynamo-grijs-364343.html#rating) (60 lux) with a Secula Plus (https://www.bikester.nl/solden/fietsaccessoires/364510.html) in the rear. Similar to what I have on my current bike. Though a silver B+M IQ-X (https://www.bikester.nl/476490.html) would probably fit as well and 100 lux from a dynamo light is amazing.
The current dynamo is a 12V 6W, so I'll have to check if that plays nice with modern LEDs which are designed for 3W.
The best looking dynamo I've found so far is the Velogical (http://www.velogical-engineering.com/rim-dynamo-en-1) rim dynamo but those are in the price/quality range of SON dynohubs... Maybe in the future. :P
Just made an album on IMGur (http://imgur.com/a/y0ojX) so I can easily refer to all the pictures if anyone is interested.
I believe its just that your derailurs arnt set correctly. Its shifting the chain too far.
-
16 to 28 is a huge jump. It might not work exactly as you have planned. Sometimes adding a washer is helpful between the derailleur and the frame to both keep the mech out of the spokes and get the geometry right for a big rear cog. When you say "eating the chain" do you mean chain suck, or...? Length of chain shouldn't have an impact here unless you have zero tension on it.
You will want to keep up the maintence on those drum hubs and make sure you are using the right kind of grease. Drum and coaster hubs have specific lube requirements. Love the bottle dyno.
I know. It's going to be interesting to see if it works or not. But the washer is a good idea. Otherwise I'll have to figure out if I can grind down some of the sprockets for a third cog in between.
As to the "eating the chain", it fell off and wrapped itself around the rear axle. The chain itself hasn't been shortened yet so it's probably a lack of tension. Just slapped on the 114 link chain to see if it worked. Probably fell off when I hit a big bump. I'll wait until the big sprocket comes in to shorten it.
I'm aware of the special needs of Shimano's roller brakes. Really good brakes but you need a special grease to increase their stopping power.
The Sturmey Archer brake hubs don't need any grease as far as I can tell. Just keep them clean (http://mccraw.co.uk/sturmey-archer-drum-brake-routine-service/) and grease the pawls and springs inside. They also have the added benefit of having basically no drag when you are riding because the brake shoe completely disengages.
I'm planning on putting some modern, but good-looking, lights on there. Probably a silver B+M Cyo (https://www.bikester.nl/busch-u-mueller-lumotec-iq-cyo-senso-plus-fietsdynamo-grijs-364343.html#rating) (60 lux) with a Secula Plus (https://www.bikester.nl/solden/fietsaccessoires/364510.html) in the rear. Similar to what I have on my current bike. Though a silver B+M IQ-X (https://www.bikester.nl/476490.html) would probably fit as well and 100 lux from a dynamo light is amazing.
The current dynamo is a 12V 6W, so I'll have to check if that plays nice with modern LEDs which are designed for 3W.
The best looking dynamo I've found so far is the Velogical (http://www.velogical-engineering.com/rim-dynamo-en-1) rim dynamo but those are in the price/quality range of SON dynohubs... Maybe in the future. :P
Just made an album on IMGur (http://imgur.com/a/y0ojX) so I can easily refer to all the pictures if anyone is interested.
I believe its just that your derailurs arnt set correctly. Its shifting the chain too far.
You might be right (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html)... first time owning a bike with a derailleur. All my life I have ridden IGH bikes. Got some learning to do. :))
-
So the thing about the washer isn't just about limiting travel. As you get bigger cogs, they have to increase in a non-linear fashion to keep a smooth development profile. So the shape of the mech is trapezoidal so that it also doesn't swing linearly. This means that if you set the limit screw way in, you might be using a portion of the rear mech's travel that is too "flat" rather than moving down far enough to get the mech out of the way of the big cog. Does that make any sense? I feel like I should ms paint some pictures...
P.s. The SON hub and edelux light are worth every penny... but it is a lot of pennies...
-
My new ride... Hooligan 2017 (just came in from Switzerland). This thing is fun to ride on! :)
(http://i.imgur.com/rOWA1fg.jpg)
Build log: http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790
-
My new ride... Hooligan 2017 (just came in from Switzerland). This thing is fun to ride on! :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/rOWA1fg.jpg)
Build log: http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790
Looks friggen sweet but what kinda riding is it for? The wheels seem to small for a mountain bike
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My new ride... Hooligan 2017 (just came in from Switzerland). This thing is fun to ride on! :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/rOWA1fg.jpg)
Build log: http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790 (http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790)
Looks friggen sweet but what kinda riding is it for? The wheels seem to small for a mountain bike
Thanks and it's billed as an urban bike but you could take it to the mountains and trails and stuff. :)
https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/
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Looks pretty sweet. Reminds me of a Schindelhauer Thinbike. :)
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My new ride... Hooligan 2017 (just came in from Switzerland). This thing is fun to ride on! :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/rOWA1fg.jpg)
Build log: http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790 (http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790)
Looks friggen sweet but what kinda riding is it for? The wheels seem to small for a mountain bike
Thanks and it's billed as an urban bike but you could take it to the mountains and trails and stuff. :)
https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/
Disc brakes? Yummy
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Looks pretty sweet. Reminds me of a Schindelhauer Thinbike. :)
Heh, thanks and I had to google that one. lol It does look pretty similar to the Hooligan. :)
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My new ride... Hooligan 2017 (just came in from Switzerland). This thing is fun to ride on! :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/rOWA1fg.jpg)
Build log: http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790 (http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790)
Looks friggen sweet but what kinda riding is it for? The wheels seem to small for a mountain bike
Thanks and it's billed as an urban bike but you could take it to the mountains and trails and stuff. :)
https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/ (https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/)
Disc brakes? Yummy
Disc brakes, hydrolic lever, Shimano Alfine 11 speed with Rapid Fire shifter, Lefty fork, Brooks Cambium C17 saddle, etc. The list just goes on and on. Lots of aftermarket parts on this one. :)
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My new ride... Hooligan 2017 (just came in from Switzerland). This thing is fun to ride on! :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/rOWA1fg.jpg)
Build log: http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790 (http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790)
Looks friggen sweet but what kinda riding is it for? The wheels seem to small for a mountain bike
Thanks and it's billed as an urban bike but you could take it to the mountains and trails and stuff. :)
https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/ (https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/)
Disc brakes? Yummy
Disc brakes, hydrolic lever, Shimano Alfine 11 speed with Rapid Fire shifter, Lefty fork, Brooks Cambium C17 saddle, etc. The list just goes on and on. Lots of aftermarket parts on this one. :)
I really like that tan wall tires!
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My new ride... Hooligan 2017 (just came in from Switzerland). This thing is fun to ride on! :)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/rOWA1fg.jpg)
Build log: http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790 (http://m.fotos.mtb-news.de/s/81790)
Looks friggen sweet but what kinda riding is it for? The wheels seem to small for a mountain bike
Thanks and it's billed as an urban bike but you could take it to the mountains and trails and stuff. :)
https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/ (https://www.facebook.com/francesc.masipculleres/videos/1221787264510972/)
Disc brakes? Yummy
Disc brakes, hydrolic lever, Shimano Alfine 11 speed with Rapid Fire shifter, Lefty fork, Brooks Cambium C17 saddle, etc. The list just goes on and on. Lots of aftermarket parts on this one. :)
I really like that tan wall tires!
Yah, me too! It gives it that retro look. (https://geekhack.org/Smileys/solosmileys/smiley.gif)
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So I'm kind of guilty of moving from Keyboards to bikes. Right now I'm working on a better track bike, because I've been racing on my budget chromoly track machine. Does anyone have recommendations for like affordable (sub$150) sprint bars?
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So I'm kind of guilty of moving from Keyboards to bikes. Right now I'm working on a better track bike, because I've been racing on my budget chromoly track machine. Does anyone have recommendations for like affordable (sub$150) sprint bars?
What width do you want? Nitto B123AA if you're running 38mm, deda pista if you're going 42mm. There are stem clamp size considerations as well. Don't buy steel bars... they are excessively heavy and even the backwards and anachronistic keirin rules say use aluminum bars.
It's cool you're racing on the track. What are your favorite events?
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Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
-
Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
You might come around on the bars. I think something you could do for comfort is to move the hoods down. Ideally, you want something of a flat transition from the top of the bar to the hoods. You'll need to redo the bar tape if you do this, but it looks like it might be time for that anyway. Should look more like this:
(http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Cambio_Rino/CambioRino_Blue_2/CamRin_Blue_2_Brake_L_1.jpg)
You can use an extra layer of bar tape right at the bar/hood transition to fill the gap. More modern levers have extra material in this spot to make a large, flat, comfortable platform for the hands.
-
Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
You might come around on the bars. I think something you could do for comfort is to move the hoods down. Ideally, you want something of a flat transition from the top of the bar to the hoods. You'll need to redo the bar tape if you do this, but it looks like it might be time for that anyway. Should look more like this:
Show Image
(http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Cambio_Rino/CambioRino_Blue_2/CamRin_Blue_2_Brake_L_1.jpg)
You can use an extra layer of bar tape right at the bar/hood transition to fill the gap. More modern levers have extra material in this spot to make a large, flat, comfortable platform for the hands.
I redid the bar tape recently actually, I just have shorter fingers so braking is sort of awkward for me, I have seen these things
(http://wandel.ca/bikes/0620-170639.jpg)
and have been wanting to see if I can find some.. they look like they might make it more enjoyable.
-
Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
You might come around on the bars. I think something you could do for comfort is to move the hoods down. Ideally, you want something of a flat transition from the top of the bar to the hoods. You'll need to redo the bar tape if you do this, but it looks like it might be time for that anyway. Should look more like this:
Show Image
(http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Cambio_Rino/CambioRino_Blue_2/CamRin_Blue_2_Brake_L_1.jpg)
You can use an extra layer of bar tape right at the bar/hood transition to fill the gap. More modern levers have extra material in this spot to make a large, flat, comfortable platform for the hands.
I redid the bar tape recently actually, I just have shorter fingers so braking is sort of awkward for me, I have seen these things
Show Image
(http://wandel.ca/bikes/0620-170639.jpg)
and have been wanting to see if I can find some.. they look like they might make it more enjoyable.
Hey, if they work, they work, but I think that's the wrong way to go. 95% of the time on road bars people will have their hands on the top of the hoods. It's the most neutral and comfortable place. The flat bar extender for the brake gets in the way of this position. I think a comfort, and reach, solution would be to dig up some modern shaped levers, like the cane creek scr-5, and put those on. But that's now venturing into spending money you probably didn't want to unless you can grab them at a coop of used.
-
Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
You might come around on the bars. I think something you could do for comfort is to move the hoods down. Ideally, you want something of a flat transition from the top of the bar to the hoods. You'll need to redo the bar tape if you do this, but it looks like it might be time for that anyway. Should look more like this:
Show Image
(http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Cambio_Rino/CambioRino_Blue_2/CamRin_Blue_2_Brake_L_1.jpg)
You can use an extra layer of bar tape right at the bar/hood transition to fill the gap. More modern levers have extra material in this spot to make a large, flat, comfortable platform for the hands.
I redid the bar tape recently actually, I just have shorter fingers so braking is sort of awkward for me, I have seen these things
Show Image
(http://wandel.ca/bikes/0620-170639.jpg)
and have been wanting to see if I can find some.. they look like they might make it more enjoyable.
Hey, if they work, they work, but I think that's the wrong way to go. 95% of the time on road bars people will have their hands on the top of the hoods. It's the most neutral and comfortable place. The flat bar extender for the brake gets in the way of this position. I think a comfort, and reach, solution would be to dig up some modern shaped levers, like the cane creek scr-5, and put those on. But that's now venturing into spending money you probably didn't want to unless you can grab them at a coop of used.
I'll look into it, I do ride with my hands in the hoods, maybe I'll look into some different shaped levers. I dunno if its worth investing money into this bike though, costed me like 160 CAD, and I dunno what extent of modifications I could make or if I should just consider a nicer frame before looking at upgrades :D, bullhorn bars interest me the most I tried some and they felt the most natural other than the.. straight ones(? dunno what the standard ones mountain bikes and such are called), I also think having slightly wider bars might help me, is there a specific way to guide how wide your bars should be or is it personal preference.
-
Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
You might come around on the bars. I think something you could do for comfort is to move the hoods down. Ideally, you want something of a flat transition from the top of the bar to the hoods. You'll need to redo the bar tape if you do this, but it looks like it might be time for that anyway. Should look more like this:
Show Image
(http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Cambio_Rino/CambioRino_Blue_2/CamRin_Blue_2_Brake_L_1.jpg)
You can use an extra layer of bar tape right at the bar/hood transition to fill the gap. More modern levers have extra material in this spot to make a large, flat, comfortable platform for the hands.
I redid the bar tape recently actually, I just have shorter fingers so braking is sort of awkward for me, I have seen these things
Show Image
(http://wandel.ca/bikes/0620-170639.jpg)
and have been wanting to see if I can find some.. they look like they might make it more enjoyable.
Hey, if they work, they work, but I think that's the wrong way to go. 95% of the time on road bars people will have their hands on the top of the hoods. It's the most neutral and comfortable place. The flat bar extender for the brake gets in the way of this position. I think a comfort, and reach, solution would be to dig up some modern shaped levers, like the cane creek scr-5, and put those on. But that's now venturing into spending money you probably didn't want to unless you can grab them at a coop of used.
I'll look into it, I do ride with my hands in the hoods, maybe I'll look into some different shaped levers. I dunno if its worth investing money into this bike though, costed me like 160 CAD, and I dunno what extent of modifications I could make or if I should just consider a nicer frame before looking at upgrades :D, bullhorn bars interest me the most I tried some and they felt the most natural other than the.. straight ones(? dunno what the standard ones mountain bikes and such are called), I also think having slightly wider bars might help me, is there a specific way to guide how wide your bars should be or is it personal preference.
dont get bullhorns as the drop bars are essentially bullhorns. But it is essentialy your choice regarding the style you are going for. You will need to get new break levers if you choose to use the bullhorns
-
Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
You might come around on the bars. I think something you could do for comfort is to move the hoods down. Ideally, you want something of a flat transition from the top of the bar to the hoods. You'll need to redo the bar tape if you do this, but it looks like it might be time for that anyway. Should look more like this:
Show Image
(http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Cambio_Rino/CambioRino_Blue_2/CamRin_Blue_2_Brake_L_1.jpg)
You can use an extra layer of bar tape right at the bar/hood transition to fill the gap. More modern levers have extra material in this spot to make a large, flat, comfortable platform for the hands.
I redid the bar tape recently actually, I just have shorter fingers so braking is sort of awkward for me, I have seen these things
Show Image
(http://wandel.ca/bikes/0620-170639.jpg)
and have been wanting to see if I can find some.. they look like they might make it more enjoyable.
Hey, if they work, they work, but I think that's the wrong way to go. 95% of the time on road bars people will have their hands on the top of the hoods. It's the most neutral and comfortable place. The flat bar extender for the brake gets in the way of this position. I think a comfort, and reach, solution would be to dig up some modern shaped levers, like the cane creek scr-5, and put those on. But that's now venturing into spending money you probably didn't want to unless you can grab them at a coop of used.
I'll look into it, I do ride with my hands in the hoods, maybe I'll look into some different shaped levers. I dunno if its worth investing money into this bike though, costed me like 160 CAD, and I dunno what extent of modifications I could make or if I should just consider a nicer frame before looking at upgrades :D, bullhorn bars interest me the most I tried some and they felt the most natural other than the.. straight ones(? dunno what the standard ones mountain bikes and such are called), I also think having slightly wider bars might help me, is there a specific way to guide how wide your bars should be or is it personal preference.
dont get bullhorns as the drop bars are essentially bullhorns. But it is essentialy your choice regarding the style you are going for. You will need to get new break levers if you choose to use the bullhorns
Yea, I doubt I would on this bike.. but in the future I definitely want them for a e s t h e t i c s :p
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Moved to a city and just got an old cheap road bike, not used to it still coming from a full on downhill bike I rode back home but its nice for getting around, lots of good biking trails in ottawa (mainly the Canal gets me everywhere pretty quickly).
Here's the bike :
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk4FWjr.jpg)
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/K5U81uK.jpg)
Nothing fancy.. I dislike the drop bars quite a bit but I don't think I have the option of changing them for a cheap enough price :/
You might come around on the bars. I think something you could do for comfort is to move the hoods down. Ideally, you want something of a flat transition from the top of the bar to the hoods. You'll need to redo the bar tape if you do this, but it looks like it might be time for that anyway. Should look more like this:
Show Image
(http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Bicycles_Table/Canadian_Bicycles/Cambio_Rino/CambioRino_Blue_2/CamRin_Blue_2_Brake_L_1.jpg)
You can use an extra layer of bar tape right at the bar/hood transition to fill the gap. More modern levers have extra material in this spot to make a large, flat, comfortable platform for the hands.
I redid the bar tape recently actually, I just have shorter fingers so braking is sort of awkward for me, I have seen these things
Show Image
(http://wandel.ca/bikes/0620-170639.jpg)
and have been wanting to see if I can find some.. they look like they might make it more enjoyable.
Hey, if they work, they work, but I think that's the wrong way to go. 95% of the time on road bars people will have their hands on the top of the hoods. It's the most neutral and comfortable place. The flat bar extender for the brake gets in the way of this position. I think a comfort, and reach, solution would be to dig up some modern shaped levers, like the cane creek scr-5, and put those on. But that's now venturing into spending money you probably didn't want to unless you can grab them at a coop of used.
I'll look into it, I do ride with my hands in the hoods, maybe I'll look into some different shaped levers. I dunno if its worth investing money into this bike though, costed me like 160 CAD, and I dunno what extent of modifications I could make or if I should just consider a nicer frame before looking at upgrades :D, bullhorn bars interest me the most I tried some and they felt the most natural other than the.. straight ones(? dunno what the standard ones mountain bikes and such are called), I also think having slightly wider bars might help me, is there a specific way to guide how wide your bars should be or is it personal preference.
dont get bullhorns as the drop bars are essentially bullhorns. But it is essentialy your choice regarding the style you are going for. You will need to get new break levers if you choose to use the bullhorns
Yea, I doubt I would on this bike.. but in the future I definitely want them for a e s t h e t i c s :p
use pinkbike, craigs list, kijiji to buy parts. there are some great deals out there
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If you want a cheap option you could go for some Tektro levers with a pair of crosslevers. Different aesthetics but better braking. I have a pair of used Weinnmann citylever/'suicide levers' from a cheap dropbar I got from local eBay.
Once I have the setup dialed in I'll go with a setup like that.
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If you like the feel of bullhorns, then a different lever shape would make you happy. Here's what a modern "square" drop bar and lever look like:
(http://road.cc/sites/default/files/Screen%20Shot%202014-05-05%20at%2015.53.10.png)
Notice how it's perfectly flat, just like the bullhorns. I agree though--unless you're putting on serious miles it might not be worth messing with too much. I always say if it helps you ride more, it's worth it, this may or may not do it.
As far as width goes, old thinking was that you size the bars by your shoulder blades. That's now considered bull****, and the trend has been to narrower and narrower bars on road racing bikes. Touring bikes usually like slightly wider bars and obviously you are used to very wide DH bars. It has more to do with control of the bike and comfort. More often than not, you will either get used to it after a short time or you will know you need something else. One last thing to consider is that old bikes sometimes had really, really narrow bars. Most people on road bikes run somewhere between 40-42cm center-to-center width.
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If you like the feel of bullhorns, then a different lever shape would make you happy. Here's what a modern "square" drop bar and lever look like:
Show Image
(http://road.cc/sites/default/files/Screen%20Shot%202014-05-05%20at%2015.53.10.png)
Notice how it's perfectly flat, just like the bullhorns. I agree though--unless you're putting on serious miles it might not be worth messing with too much. I always say if it helps you ride more, it's worth it, this may or may not do it.
As far as width goes, old thinking was that you size the bars by your shoulder blades. That's now considered bull****, and the trend has been to narrower and narrower bars on road racing bikes. Touring bikes usually like slightly wider bars and obviously you are used to very wide DH bars. It has more to do with control of the bike and comfort. More often than not, you will either get used to it after a short time or you will know you need something else. One last thing to consider is that old bikes sometimes had really, really narrow bars. Most people on road bikes run somewhere between 40-42cm center-to-center width.
Thanks for the info I'll check that out, and yes my bars seem really narrow to me being a bigger guy its a bit uncomfortable. That picture of the different shaped lever does look a lot more comfortable also the plastic grip cover things on mine are worn out too, its serving its purpose of getting me from A to B recently though. Sadly I went to fill up one of my tires at this kind of public bike repair stand thing on campus, wasn't expecting the nozzle to be different than what I'm used to and it ended up not being compatible >:D I felt so silly and ended up having to walk home :p, lesson learned though.
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Mhm nomnom got some package from Australia to Austria! I can't stop smelling the leather and glue and all!
(http://i.imgur.com/8jj0yQb.jpg)
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Any suggestions for an affordable bullhorn handlebar that can:
- fit bar-end brakes
- is available in a polished finish
- is not a pursuit bar (so preferably straight at the stem)
I have a Pure Fix bar right now but that one is too narrow inside for anything @17mm
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Mhm nomnom got some package from Australia to Austria! I can't stop smelling the leather and glue and all!
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/8jj0yQb.jpg)
An SLR with kangaroo leather?!?!?!?!? :eek:
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Finally got some pics of my Yeti. Thought I'd share! :)
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Finally got some pics of my Yeti. Thought I'd share! :)
(Attachment Link)
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Photos like these are why I really really want to get back to mountain bikes. That's a really gorgeous bike. What type of riding is it used for (by you that is)?
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Thank you! I'm definitely on it every second I can :D I mostly ride single-track trail and enduro. I'm in SC but am pretty close to the trails in Western NC which are awesome.
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So I'm kind of guilty of moving from Keyboards to bikes. Right now I'm working on a better track bike, because I've been racing on my budget chromoly track machine. Does anyone have recommendations for like affordable (sub$150) sprint bars?
What width do you want? Nitto B123AA if you're running 38mm, deda pista if you're going 42mm. There are stem clamp size considerations as well. Don't buy steel bars... they are excessively heavy and even the backwards and anachronistic keirin rules say use aluminum bars.
It's cool you're racing on the track. What are your favorite events?
I'm looking at the Vibe sprint bar/stem combo rn, they seem very reasonably priced and get good stiffness reviews.
I like sprints and keiren on the track a lot, mostly because I race endurance on the road, so the short events feel very exciting. I also really like elimination races.
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Whoo! Got a new commuter bike this weekend for cheap. It was a former rain bike and has some rust in the drivetrain, but I'm liking the bike.
It's commuter road bike with 32mm slicks and has some fun parts like EA90sl wheels, carbon drop bars and a sram red cx crank. It's not in the best condition but I only paid $150 so no complaining on my end. I've been so busy lately though that my weekly mileage is basically nothing...looking forward to riding more in the coming month when I have more free time.
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Whoo! Got a new commuter bike this weekend for cheap. It was a former rain bike and has some rust in the drivetrain, but I'm liking the bike.
It's commuter road bike with 32mm slicks and has some fun parts like EA90sl wheels, carbon drop bars and a sram red cx crank. It's not in the best condition but I only paid $150 so no complaining on my end. I've been so busy lately though that my weekly mileage is basically nothing...looking forward to riding more in the coming month when I have more free time.
Sounds like a nice deal! Would you be so kind and post some photos?
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Whoo! Got a new commuter bike this weekend for cheap. It was a former rain bike and has some rust in the drivetrain, but I'm liking the bike.
It's commuter road bike with 32mm slicks and has some fun parts like EA90sl wheels, carbon drop bars and a sram red cx crank. It's not in the best condition but I only paid $150 so no complaining on my end. I've been so busy lately though that my weekly mileage is basically nothing...looking forward to riding more in the coming month when I have more free time.
I read that as Computer bike..
was like.. ooooo, they make those ?
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Whoo! Got a new commuter bike this weekend for cheap. It was a former rain bike and has some rust in the drivetrain, but I'm liking the bike.
It's commuter road bike with 32mm slicks and has some fun parts like EA90sl wheels, carbon drop bars and a sram red cx crank. It's not in the best condition but I only paid $150 so no complaining on my end. I've been so busy lately though that my weekly mileage is basically nothing...looking forward to riding more in the coming month when I have more free time.
congrats on the nice find! definitely can't complain about the price!
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I'll post pics soon! The bike isn't with me now.
It needs work but it wasn't abused in its past so I'm cool with it, thinking of a new chain, chainrings, bar tape, and a good cleaning. Or nothing at all, since it's going to be my commuter bike after all :p :p
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(http://i.imgur.com/m0w1WHsh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/m0w1WHs)
It works with classic drum brakes! :D
Just forgot to properly measure the bars so I need to order the cross levers in a bigger size.
That and I need some more cables as a single Jagwire kit was't enough.
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Anyone get one of those motor kits?
Looks fun...
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Anyone get one of those motor kits?
Looks fun...
I haven't looked into the motor kits, but I've noticed more e-bike mtb ads/promotions recently. A lot of the feedback so far seems really polarized or a love it or hate it attitude. I think it's a cool concept, but definitely not for everyone.
here's a new specialized e-bike promo video if anyone's interested: https://player.vimeo.com/video/191759944
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Anyone get one of those motor kits?
Looks fun...
I haven't looked into the motor kits, but I've noticed more e-bike mtb ads/promotions recently. A lot of the feedback so far seems really polarized or a love it or hate it attitude. I think it's a cool concept, but definitely not for everyone.
here's a new specialized e-bike promo video if anyone's interested: https://player.vimeo.com/video/191759944
I just want a cheapo kit to scoot to and from wawa on my snack runs.. no need to get fancy.. It's kind of a pain to start the car, back out, shift, drive 800 meters, park, get out, lock, get snack, unlock, shift, drive, park, eat snack (http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/lol1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862512)
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Anyone get one of those motor kits?
Looks fun...
I haven't looked into the motor kits, but I've noticed more e-bike mtb ads/promotions recently. A lot of the feedback so far seems really polarized or a love it or hate it attitude. I think it's a cool concept, but definitely not for everyone.
here's a new specialized e-bike promo video if anyone's interested: https://player.vimeo.com/video/191759944
I just want a cheapo kit to scoot to and from wawa on my snack runs.. no need to get fancy.. It's kind of a pain to start the car, back out, shift, drive 800 meters, park, get out, lock, get snack, unlock, shift, drive, park, eat snack Show Image
(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/lol1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862512)
ah, but in your car, u can fit many snacks... no need to go back anytime soon :)
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Anyone get one of those motor kits?
Looks fun...
I haven't looked into the motor kits, but I've noticed more e-bike mtb ads/promotions recently. A lot of the feedback so far seems really polarized or a love it or hate it attitude. I think it's a cool concept, but definitely not for everyone.
here's a new specialized e-bike promo video if anyone's interested: https://player.vimeo.com/video/191759944
I just want a cheapo kit to scoot to and from wawa on my snack runs.. no need to get fancy.. It's kind of a pain to start the car, back out, shift, drive 800 meters, park, get out, lock, get snack, unlock, shift, drive, park, eat snack Show Image
(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/lol1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862512)
ah, but in your car, u can fit many snacks... no need to go back anytime soon :)
Wawa is only for emergency snack runs.. If I want maximum snacks, I drive to costco.. //FAT
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Anyone get one of those motor kits?
Looks fun...
I haven't looked into the motor kits, but I've noticed more e-bike mtb ads/promotions recently. A lot of the feedback so far seems really polarized or a love it or hate it attitude. I think it's a cool concept, but definitely not for everyone.
here's a new specialized e-bike promo video if anyone's interested: https://player.vimeo.com/video/191759944
I just want a cheapo kit to scoot to and from wawa on my snack runs.. no need to get fancy.. It's kind of a pain to start the car, back out, shift, drive 800 meters, park, get out, lock, get snack, unlock, shift, drive, park, eat snack Show Image
(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/lol1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862512)
ah, but in your car, u can fit many snacks... no need to go back anytime soon :)
Wawa is only for emergency snack runs.. If I want maximum snacks, I drive to costco.. //FAT
Lmao :D Costco is def best place for maximum snackage
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Are any of you guys rocking friction shifters? If so, what do you think?
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I think they are retro grouch stuff. I mean, all my future bikes will have electronic shifting, let alone indexed mechanical. But some bike tourers really like them. Easy to set up and maintain. My set is on my dads old '74 Raleigh international. That bike will have nuovo record on it forever. While it's a nice bike, it's nowhere as nice to ride as the new stuff.
Thinking more about it--it's like not installing a desktop environment on your computer. Sure you can, and a few people even do, but why?
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Are any of you guys rocking friction shifters? If so, what do you think?
my bike has them, other than their placement on my bike which I am not used to they function fine.
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I just scored a great deal on a closeout of the Garmin Vector II power meter! After the holidays I should get a chance to get back on the boards and Ill update about how it is.
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Are any of you guys rocking friction shifters? If so, what do you think?
Rocking partial friction shifters. But that is because I am using a particularly weird setup where I just need to switch between two modes.
From what I've read they are less than ideal on modern 9+ speed bikes because the tolerances are too small.
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I will start us off!
Here is my primary bike, a Trek Remedy 9 27.5:
Show Image
(http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11105221/p4pb11105221.jpg)
I also own a Trek 1.2 that I use for general getting around/commuting to work/occasional road ride.. The perks of working at a bike shop.. :p
Trek is so good,I like Road bike but Trek is so expensive,only have one not very good 451 small Road bike.
(http://i.imgur.com/Xp351DJ.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/9RV93t9.jpg) (http://imgur.com/9RV93t9)
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Hey guys, Im looking for a new computer to go with my new power meter. Does anyone have recomendations for budget (preferably garmin) bike computers?
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Hey guys, Im looking for a new computer to go with my new power meter. Does anyone have recomendations for budget (preferably garmin) bike computers?
I have the Edge 25 and like it a lot. It is pretty new and small and does everything that I need! Check out Dcrainmaker's reviews, he does good stuff.
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Hey guys, Im looking for a new computer to go with my new power meter. Does anyone have recomendations for budget (preferably garmin) bike computers?
I have the Edge 25 and like it a lot. It is pretty new and small and does everything that I need! Check out Dcrainmaker's reviews, he does good stuff.
I really really like how it looks! unfortunately isnt power meter compatible :'(
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Hey guys, Im looking for a new computer to go with my new power meter. Does anyone have recomendations for budget (preferably garmin) bike computers?
I have the Edge 25 and like it a lot. It is pretty new and small and does everything that I need! Check out Dcrainmaker's reviews, he does good stuff.
I really really like how it looks! unfortunately isnt power meter compatible :'(
Oh darn, didn't notice that. I guess you have to go higher in price than :(
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Hey guys, Im looking for a new computer to go with my new power meter. Does anyone have recomendations for budget (preferably garmin) bike computers?
I have the Edge 25 and like it a lot. It is pretty new and small and does everything that I need! Check out Dcrainmaker's reviews, he does good stuff.
I really really like how it looks! unfortunately isnt power meter compatible :'(
A friend of mine has the Garmin 520 and loves it. From what I've seen of it, the GPS features work really well, and it can be paired with a variety of ANT+ sensors (including power). It retails for $299, but I've seen it on sale many times. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/166370
I use the vivoactive watch (mainly for GPS). Not sure if it supports ANT+ power yet, but I've seen mention of some 3rd party app developers working on it. You can find one of these for about $100.
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Anyone has tried putting some 26" tires on a 28" CX bike? Been thinking about this for a few evenings now and want to try it out just goofs.
What would be the pros/cons for daily riding (mostly pavement with the occasional off-road on evenings and weekends)? And no - it's not for the winter time, just been eager to get back on the bike and already fantasizing about the season.
More
(http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Kyles-Red-White-and-Blue-Stinner-Monster-Cross-13-1335x890.jpg)
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Anyone has tried putting some 26" tires on a 28" CX bike? Been thinking about this for a few evenings now and want to try it out just goofs.
What would be the pros/cons for daily riding (mostly pavement with the occasional off-road on evenings and weekends)? And no - it's not for the winter time, just been eager to get back on the bike and already fantasizing about the season.
More
Show Image
(http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Kyles-Red-White-and-Blue-Stinner-Monster-Cross-13-1335x890.jpg)
sounds like a good plan. if its mostly for road riding though I'd recommend pretty untreaded tires.
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Anyone has tried putting some 26" tires on a 28" CX bike? Been thinking about this for a few evenings now and want to try it out just goofs.
What would be the pros/cons for daily riding (mostly pavement with the occasional off-road on evenings and weekends)? And no - it's not for the winter time, just been eager to get back on the bike and already fantasizing about the season.
More
Show Image
(http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Kyles-Red-White-and-Blue-Stinner-Monster-Cross-13-1335x890.jpg)
I haven't done it, but here's the considerations:
Obviously you can only try this with disc brake compatible frames. You will need to measure the chain stays and fork for clearance. To keep the bike handling similar, you're looking at a 26x2.5", which is a huge tire. You will probably get better results with a 650b wheel and a 50c/2" tire. It will feel really sluggish on roads. It still might not handle very well (the discussion of pneumatic trail is beyond the scope of this forum). But if you're curious don't let any of that stop you...
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If you want ideas about this kind of bike done right, check out Kris' work at 44 bikes. He really understands how to build big tire, mostly road bikes that really ride well. http://www.44bikes.com/huntsman-super-trail/
(http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/44Bikes.jpg)
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Do any of you know how difficult it would be for a frame builder to take a frame and recreate it in another metal like titanium?
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Do any of you know how difficult it would be for a frame builder to take a frame and recreate it in another metal like titanium?
Not any harder than making any frame in titanium.
BUT...
Any framebilder worth anything will tell you to go get stuffed if you show up with a set of measurements or a geometry chart and told to build it. A better approach would be to say "I have this bike, and I really like <qualities> about it. Here's my body measurements and how I intend to ride the bike". You'll get a much better result. If you find someone who will build from your specs you shouldn't trust that builder's work, because they don't know enough about what they are doing to say no.
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Anyone has tried putting some 26" tires on a 28" CX bike? Been thinking about this for a few evenings now and want to try it out just goofs.
What would be the pros/cons for daily riding (mostly pavement with the occasional off-road on evenings and weekends)? And no - it's not for the winter time, just been eager to get back on the bike and already fantasizing about the season.
More
Show Image
(http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Kyles-Red-White-and-Blue-Stinner-Monster-Cross-13-1335x890.jpg)
I haven't done it, but here's the considerations:
Obviously you can only try this with disc brake compatible frames. You will need to measure the chain stays and fork for clearance. To keep the bike handling similar, you're looking at a 26x2.5", which is a huge tire. You will probably get better results with a 650b wheel and a 50c/2" tire. It will feel really sluggish on roads. It still might not handle very well (the discussion of pneumatic trail is beyond the scope of this forum). But if you're curious don't let any of that stop you...
I'd not be using it daily unless I'd find it performing about the same or better than what I have now. I've just seen this trend and want to try it out. But yes, brakes would be a issue. Would need to check clearance but I've already thought about that and will probably just try a wheel from a MTB, preferably a big ass one (2.5" would LOOK cool). I'd enjoy a more nimble and responsive bike then a tractor like heavy weight though.
It's just a thought I had during lunch break so please don't judge me too harsh on this weird Frankenstein of a idea.
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Quick update on the Grand Tourist. Installed the front rack and a rear rack that I won on local eBay, together with a set of stainless steel Weinmann fenders with Soubitez rear light and a Schwinn (?) TMI headlight + dynamo.
(Not bad for €20 for the whole lot.)
(http://i.imgur.com/vhcMtoph.jpg) (http://imgur.com/vhcMtop)
(http://i.imgur.com/lHRuQKGh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/lHRuQKG)
The headlight looks really slick on this bike so I'll probably try to gut it and fit a B+M Cyo Premium LED headlight in there and then wire everything up properly.
Not sure what I will do with the extra fenders yet but everything is starting to come together. :)
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If you want ideas about this kind of bike done right, check out Kris' work at 44 bikes. He really understands how to build big tire, mostly road bikes that really ride well. http://www.44bikes.com/huntsman-super-trail/
Show Image
(http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/44Bikes.jpg)
I've been following Kris and his bikes online for years! He's from NH where I used to spend summers as a kid. I actually found his stuff from his post about building his shop out back behind his house on Garage Journal: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112578
his bikes are stunning.
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I wanted to stay in the time period with my light but I am also really happy with the light that is coming from my B+M Cyo Premium.
Now I could have gone for the chrome version but that one only has 60 Lux instead of the 80 Lux of the premium.
So some modding was in order;
(http://i.imgur.com/XEB6LnPh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/XEB6LnP)
Schwinn (?) TMI headlight above and the Cyo below. It should fit inside but maybe I'll need to cut away part of the support. (Spoiler: I did)
(http://i.imgur.com/zm1Uc5Rh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/zm1Uc5R)
So after some cutting and sanding of the metal front ring of the old light it finally fit inside. Just needed to wire everything up and see if it works.
(http://i.imgur.com/yYO7d6Gh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/yYO7d6G)
Taped off the rear light connectors for now because otherwise they create a short and it won't work.
I just used some foam blocks that I had lying around to fix it in place but perhaps I will replace it with something more permanent later.
For now I still want to tidy up the wires and replace them with slightly thicker ones.
End result
(http://i.imgur.com/ATIgdeKh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ATIgdeK)
(http://i.imgur.com/3Rc1brQh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/3Rc1brQ)
You won't know it is a modern light untill you switch it on. :cool:
Edit:
(http://i.imgur.com/2LwtzGCh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/2LwtzGC)
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well done sir. classy af.
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well done sir. classy af.
Thank you sir. :D
I'm not done yet but the delivery guy failed to ring my doorbell and deliver some high quality coax wire so I can start adding some extra frame guides and wire the rear light properly.
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well done sir. classy af.
well done sir. classy af.
Thank you sir. :D
I'm not done yet but the delivery guy failed to ring my doorbell and deliver some high quality coax wire so I can start adding some extra frame guides and wire the rear light properly.
Maximum hipster achieved..
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(http://i.imgur.com/lHRuQKGh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/lHRuQKG)
The headlight looks really slick on this bike so I'll probably try to gut it and fit a B+M Cyo Premium LED headlight in there and then wire everything up properly.
Not sure what I will do with the extra fenders yet but everything is starting to come together. :)
That is a very nice grocery getter. the headlight is also really nice. Excellent work.
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I'm not done yet. :D
(http://i.imgur.com/PognVDkh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/PognVDk)
Got my hands on a cheap wheel with a Sturmey Archer RX-RD5 (http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/rx-rd5) (5-speed hub with 70mm drum brakes) for just €30.
Just finished cutting it out of the wheel (it was pitted and most of the spokes were bent or loose) and will be reading up on how to build my own wheel soon.
(http://i.imgur.com/EdaQhC9h.jpg) (http://imgur.com/EdaQhC9)
It's pretty damn solid though at 2.5 Kg. :eek:
I enjoy the hybrid system I have now but this gives a very similar range and less of a hassle overall.
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Wow, these gearboxes are pretty neat.. only $1000 for all that engineering.. Pretty good value imho..
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Wow, these gearboxes are pretty neat.. only $1000 for all that engineering.. Pretty good value imho..
I'm thinking you are mixing it up with a Rohloff (https://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/). I want one but I need my money for other stuff first. :D
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Here's my bike ;D :thumb:
(http://i.imgur.com/9x4F6jF.jpg)
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Here's my bike ;D :thumb:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/9x4F6jF.jpg)
Saw that in the "post life picture" thread... I sold mine for an engagement ring and haven't gotten back on in a few years now.
Here was my year-rounder when i lived in DC:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7320/10076614723_9bf0f0c7ee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/gmrhuB)
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Recently acquired this 29er :) It's getting a 1x10 XT conversion tomorrow.
Wheels are Stans Crest with CX ray's and e13 hubs, good stuff. Frame is carbon and the fork ain't too shabby either.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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Recently acquired this 29er :) It's getting a 1x10 XT conversion tomorrow.
Wheels are Stans Crest with CX ray's and e13 hubs, good stuff. Frame is carbon and the fork ain't too shabby either.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
That's a really nice looking bicycle. I'm a big fan of hard tails as I don't really do much downhill. That gear ratio is so tiny though.
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Recently acquired this 29er :) It's getting a 1x10 XT conversion tomorrow.
Wheels are Stans Crest with CX ray's and e13 hubs, good stuff. Frame is carbon and the fork ain't too shabby either.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
That's a really nice looking bicycle. I'm a big fan of hard tails as I don't really do much downhill. That gear ratio is so tiny though.
I come from a road background so I prefer XC style stuff over downhill too. The ratio has been pretty rough though, it's 30-19. Single speed is intense but I'm just not good/strong enough for it. It'll have an 11-36 after I'm done working on it tomorrow so it'll have a pretty normal 1x10 setup soon. I've seen fast XC riders power through all sorts of gnarly climbs on one gear but I'm not at that level of strength haha
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Recently acquired this 29er :) It's getting a 1x10 XT conversion tomorrow.
Wheels are Stans Crest with CX ray's and e13 hubs, good stuff. Frame is carbon and the fork ain't too shabby either.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
That's a really nice looking bicycle. I'm a big fan of hard tails as I don't really do much downhill. That gear ratio is so tiny though.
I come from a road background so I prefer XC style stuff over downhill too. The ratio has been pretty rough though, it's 30-19. Single speed is intense but I'm just not good/strong enough for it. It'll have an 11-36 after I'm done working on it tomorrow so it'll have a pretty normal 1x10 setup soon. I've seen fast XC riders power through all sorts of gnarly climbs on one gear but I'm not at that level of strength haha
Yeah, I've seen some folks ride up hills that would kill me on one gear. I get that single gears have advantages but 1x10 just makes more sense to me.
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Got myself this bad boy a few months back: YT industries Jeffsy in carbon
Pike RCT3, Monarch RCT3, X1 groupset (1x11), Guide RSCs and Reverb Stealth.
Still waiting for riding weather but I'm #stooooked
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Yeah, I've seen some folks ride up hills that would kill me on one gear. I get that single gears have advantages but 1x10 just makes more sense to me.
At one point I had a Redline Monocog singlespeed, Debernardi fixed gear, and Specialized Langster fixed gear. This was all around 2004-2008 when I was in far better shape and single gears were all the rage.
Yea kids I know you think you are invincible now. I used to be like you. But when you get older you are going to wish you used gears.
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Got a second hand Sturmey Archer XL-RD5(W) (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hubs-internal-hub-gear-brake/sturmey-archer-xlrd5-5spd-alu-rear-hub-with-90mm-drum-brake-36-hole/) 5-speed hub in the mail today. I already had an RX-RD5 (http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/rx-rd5) but this one has the sexy larger drum brake. I had it waiting to put it in a new wheel for a project bike but then this came along for cheap. :)
(http://i.imgur.com/8cX9Lmgh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/8cX9Lmg)
(http://i.imgur.com/O11t2Whh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/O11t2Wh)
That 90mm drum is HUGE though. O_O
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Cripes! That looks like it belongs on a motorcycle. :eek:
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Cripes! That looks like it belongs on a motorcycle. :eek:
True. I didn't think it would be this big. But apparently its stopping power is similar to a good disc brake but less maintenance.
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At the risk of spamming this thread (Or actually keeping it alive :P ), I just picked up a new bike yesterday.
(http://i.imgur.com/xT6AwABh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/xT6AwAB)
A Batavus Randonneur GL in size 64.
It's a steel frame (Reynolds 531ST) lightweight touring bike that's probably from 1989. 3x7 derailleur gearing so I'll have to figure out if it is possible to swap the casette or if it is a classic freewheel. Time for some internet sleuthing. :P
I bought it because I have wanted a modern Randonneur bike (https://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/03/04/getting-your-bike-ready-for-randonneuring/) which is basically between a road racing bike and a trekking bike and can take light loads for camping in a sporty but relaxed geometry. That and I think it was a good price to get my feet wet on. :)
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Nice bike dude, please do keep the thread alive! :thumb: I have been taking a few days off the bike since getting hit last week by a car while riding. Luckily we were both going slow so no major injuries, but not super motivated to be back on the bike yet.
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I just placed the order for a surly cross check frameset on qbp! gonna be building it up into my first CX bike, super excited! :thumb:
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Ok, maybe not the best shot of the bike. But I'm sure you can make it out =)
[attachimg=1]
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Nice bike dude, please do keep the thread alive! :thumb: I have been taking a few days off the bike since getting hit last week by a car while riding. Luckily we were both going slow so no major injuries, but not super motivated to be back on the bike yet.
What happened? You and the bike okay?
Also, get back on there. It will become bigger in your mind than it is and keep the motivation low.
There's nothing wrong with being careful.
Ok, maybe not the best shot of the bike. But I'm sure you can make it out =)
(Attachment Link)
Some flash would have probably brought out the bike better. But that looks like a nice color. Any better pics?
As for me; aero- and crosslevers with new cables makes a hell of a lot of difference!
(http://i.imgur.com/z1nDPNBh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/z1nDPNB)
(http://i.imgur.com/R7YdUdQh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/R7YdUdQ)
I've got some cheap black bar tape right now but I was thinking of throwing on yellow cabling and tape.
That or some honey leather tape, yellow cables and yellow shellac wire to finish everything.
Thoughts?
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Thanks, myself and the bike are alright. Just a driver turning left at an intersection and didnt look straight ahead to see me coming through. We were both going slow so I ended up on top of the car. And I have been doing a few long rides since actually, did a 75km last Thursday and another one on Sunday! Been enjoying the nice weather we finally have.
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Thanks, myself and the bike are alright. Just a driver turning left at an intersection and didnt look straight ahead to see me coming through. We were both going slow so I ended up on top of the car. And I have been doing a few long rides since actually, did a 75km last Thursday and another one on Sunday! Been enjoying the nice weather we finally have.
I've always felt that xtended exercises like that is very dangerous, because by the end, when you're so tired, You're definitely not mentally sharp, so accidents can very easily happen..
It's one thing for Truck Drivers, because it's their damn job,
But for civilian to go through an extended ordeal is taking risk for no good reason
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Thanks, myself and the bike are alright. Just a driver turning left at an intersection and didnt look straight ahead to see me coming through. We were both going slow so I ended up on top of the car. And I have been doing a few long rides since actually, did a 75km last Thursday and another one on Sunday! Been enjoying the nice weather we finally have.
I've always felt that xtended exercises like that is very dangerous, because by the end, when you're so tired, You're definitely not mentally sharp, so accidents can very easily happen..
It's one thing for Truck Drivers, because it's their damn job,
But for civilian to go through an extended ordeal is taking risk for no good reason
Well when I got hit I was only 10km into a bike ride, and the driver was found to be at fault, not me. :) 75km isnt too bad, it only takes me 2.5 hrs or so, depending on how much climbing I do. I have done some longer rides and I agree, you are quite drained near the end.
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I've always felt that xtended exercises like that is very dangerous, because by the end, when you're so tired, You're definitely not mentally sharp, so accidents can very easily happen..
It's one thing for Truck Drivers, because it's their damn job,
But for civilian to go through an extended ordeal is taking risk for no good reason
It really depends on your conditioning. I did a 72km ride before work this morning. Feel fine.
Now the ultra endurance racers are another story. Those riders push themselves right to the edge.
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I've always felt that xtended exercises like that is very dangerous, because by the end, when you're so tired, You're definitely not mentally sharp, so accidents can very easily happen..
It's one thing for Truck Drivers, because it's their damn job,
But for civilian to go through an extended ordeal is taking risk for no good reason
It really depends on your conditioning. I did a 72km ride before work this morning. Feel fine.
Now the ultra endurance racers are another story. Those riders push themselves right to the edge.
Any ride longer then 2 hours and you should really have some energy gels or some sort of snack to keep you on top of your feet
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My bike never gets finished, but I am riding every day to work with it, not that much, about 12km in one direction straight through the city. Here's my fancy cockpit, without front light after redoing the handlebar tape:
(http://i.imgur.com/yr4wkjG.jpg)
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I've always felt that xtended exercises like that is very dangerous, because by the end, when you're so tired, You're definitely not mentally sharp, so accidents can very easily happen..
It's one thing for Truck Drivers, because it's their damn job,
But for civilian to go through an extended ordeal is taking risk for no good reason
It really depends on your conditioning. I did a 72km ride before work this morning. Feel fine.
And I thought I was cool for doing the 52km commute to and from work...
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Recently I was thinking about my gear ratios and speed rates. In the city riding about 25-30 km a day with mostly flat roads, a steep garage driveway (ok ok), my bike sports 46T in the front and a classic 11-28 11-speed cassette on a 10-speed roadbike hub.
My absolutely most ridden ratio is 42-19, then 42-21 for slower speeds, and 42-17 and 42-15 when going faster. But I think I never pedaled on 11 or 12 in the back... So I'll soon get a 42T chainring for the crank set. And thinking of one of these fancy big cassettes!
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Recently I was thinking about my gear ratios and speed rates. In the city riding about 25-30 km a day with mostly flat roads, a steep garage driveway (ok ok), my bike sports 46T in the front and a classic 11-28 11-speed cassette on a 10-speed roadbike hub.
My absolutely most ridden ratio is 42-19, then 42-21 for slower speeds, and 42-17 and 42-15 when going faster. But I think I never pedaled on 11 or 12 in the back... So I'll soon get a 42T chainring for the crank set. And thinking of one of these fancy big cassettes!
Nice, that sounds like a good combination. I recently changed my mountain bike over to 1x11 speed. It has a 32t front ring and 11-42 rear cassette. It works great for climbing steep trails.
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Nice, that sounds like a good combination. I recently changed my mountain bike over to 1x11 speed. It has a 32t front ring and 11-42 rear cassette. It works great for climbing steep trails.
That's how MTBs look these days? And yeah, those big cassettes are new for me. I am riding 1 x 11 and before 1 x 10 since a while on my road bike, but not in that way. I'll try to fit soon a MTB 11-42 cassette and a new derailleur with my road bike / cross / gravel whatever bike :) Should be working, at least I hope so.
But I would also like is to go maybe back to 2 x 11, with one of these White Industries crank sets... 24 on the small ring!
On the countryside here were we are sometimes it looks like this, never flat:
(http://i.imgur.com/q8iyMgY.png)
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Nice, that sounds like a good combination. I recently changed my mountain bike over to 1x11 speed. It has a 32t front ring and 11-42 rear cassette. It works great for climbing steep trails.
That's how MTBs look these days? And yeah, those big cassettes are new for me. I am riding 1 x 11 and before 1 x 10 since a while on my road bike, but not in that way. I'll try to fit soon a MTB 11-42 cassette and a new derailleur with my road bike / cross / gravel whatever bike :) Should be working, at least I hope so.
But I would also like is to go maybe back to 2 x 11, with one of these White Industries crank sets... 24 on the small ring!
On the countryside here were we are sometimes it looks like this, never flat:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/q8iyMgY.png)
Yeah the 1x11 or even 1x12 is the new trend over the past few years for mountain bikes. I still prefer 2x10 or 2x11 for road bikes I think. My road bike is using an outdated 2x9 :-[
The simplicity of no front derailleur/shifter is quite nice on a mountain bike, as it means you have less components to worry about and can use a chain guard so that your chain doesn't fall off the front chainring.
Not a great picture, but here is one of my mountain bike from a ride a few weeks back:
(http://i.imgur.com/60acByS.jpg)
I am actually getting it ready for a mountain biking trip in Peru that i am doing in 2 weeks!
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Looks great! I love orange, red or just bikes with a dominating color. Although I am not an expert in mountain bike things :confused: Those trees! Two friends of mine from Austria were last summer and the one before 4 weeks in Canada with their bikes and rent a big car to go biking and camping!
Peru :eek:
This is my cross / gravel / more road bike, in its last iteration, not that perfect, but I *love* to ride it although I am looking again for another bike :rolleyes:
(http://i.imgur.com/Sh8rLUX.jpg)
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Looks great! I love orange, red or just bikes with a dominating color. Although I am not an expert in mountain bike things :confused: Those trees! Two friends of mine from Austria were last summer and the one before 4 weeks in Canada with their bikes and rent a big car to go biking and camping!
Peru :eek:
This is my cross / gravel / more road bike, in its last iteration, not that perfect, but I *love* to ride it although I am looking again for another bike :rolleyes:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Sh8rLUX.jpg)
That bike looks lovely! Has a nice blended style of vintage and new to it.
Yeah we have awesome trails and forests here for mountain biking. :)
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Got a new cassette! Damn, that is big for me :eek:
(https://i.imgur.com/Qqgzx3R.png)
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Got a new cassette! Damn, that is big for me :eek:
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Qqgzx3R.png)
are the thinner gears as durable as thicker ones ?
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Got a new cassette! Damn, that is big for me :eek:
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Qqgzx3R.png)
are the thinner gears as durable as thicker ones ?
As I heard not, but shifting to them for me is maybe 10% on these, and on the others down all the time. This is from Shmano, rest shifting gear from SRAM.
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Got some work done this weekend. Finished swapping the broken plastic fenders with a pair of Weinmann stainless steel ones and gave the bike a good cleaning.
(http://i.imgur.com/WCQG5Fgh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/WCQG5Fg)
Still planning on putting a new rear rack on but I managed to snap a screw when removing the old one. Took some drilling into the frame to get it out. :-\
After that a new saddle and bar tape. Probably going for a honey/dark brown color.
I think this bike will look pretty cool with some mudflaps as well.
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Got some work done this weekend. Finished swapping the broken plastic fenders with a pair of Weinmann stainless steel ones and gave the bike a good cleaning.
(http://i.imgur.com/WCQG5Fgh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/WCQG5Fg)
Still planning on putting a new rear rack on but I managed to snap a screw when removing the old one. Took some drilling into the frame to get it out. :-\
After that a new saddle and bar tape. Probably going for a honey/dark brown color.
I think this bike will look pretty cool with some mudflaps as well.
Where's the front basket for fresh fruits and veggies. ??
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Got some work done this weekend. Finished swapping the broken plastic fenders with a pair of Weinmann stainless steel ones and gave the bike a good cleaning.
(http://i.imgur.com/WCQG5Fgh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/WCQG5Fg)
Still planning on putting a new rear rack on but I managed to snap a screw when removing the old one. Took some drilling into the frame to get it out. :-\
After that a new saddle and bar tape. Probably going for a honey/dark brown color.
I think this bike will look pretty cool with some mudflaps as well.
Nice, brown will fit for sure!
I attached this oval chainring from Garbaruk, 42 tooth, paired with this big cassette 11-46T in the back.
(https://i.imgur.com/0xFeCet.jpg)
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Got some work done this weekend. Finished swapping the broken plastic fenders with a pair of Weinmann stainless steel ones and gave the bike a good cleaning.
(http://i.imgur.com/WCQG5Fgh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/WCQG5Fg)
Still planning on putting a new rear rack on but I managed to snap a screw when removing the old one. Took some drilling into the frame to get it out. :-\
After that a new saddle and bar tape. Probably going for a honey/dark brown color.
I think this bike will look pretty cool with some mudflaps as well.
Where's the front basket for fresh fruits and veggies. ??
Different bike. :P
(http://i.imgur.com/zIRSUGjh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/zIRSUGj)
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Different bike. :P
(http://i.imgur.com/zIRSUGjh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/zIRSUGj)
Good choice, dat's the kind of basket you can put one of them k-drama females on for a stroll through the park
OR... you can prolly put a bunch of sugar cane on there and ride home with it..
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How hard is it to learn to bike? I'm always tempted by those parked bikes on the streets, but I can't cycle. Sorry if this is unrelated.
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How hard is it to learn to bike? I'm always tempted by those parked bikes on the streets, but I can't cycle. Sorry if this is unrelated.
Hahaha
It's very easy.
Basically, if you're falling to the left, you turn the handle bar slightly to the left and lean very slightly to the left, this will upright you.
After about an hour of this, it will feel natural, and you can stay upright with little conscious thought.
Then learning to TURN properly is slightly different.
Newbies usually lean into the turn. but this is the incorrect method.
You should Lean the BIKE into the direction of the turn, but your BODY towards the Outside against the turn.
This proper technique ensures you can make the tightest turning radius possible, as it puts the weight closer to the contact surface of the wheel.
-- if you lean into the same direction of the turn, your wheel will slide outward, and you can only make large radius turns this way.
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How hard is it to learn to bike? I'm always tempted by those parked bikes on the streets, but I can't cycle. Sorry if this is unrelated.
Hmm, for kids it is easy today since they are all using balance bikes and then learn almost instantly using a bicycle. Are there balance bikes for grown ups?
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How hard is it to learn to bike? I'm always tempted by those parked bikes on the streets, but I can't cycle. Sorry if this is unrelated.
Hmm, for kids it is easy today since they are all using balance bikes and then learn almost instantly using a bicycle. Are there balance bikes for grown ups?
The main thing is to learn confidence in starting from a standstill and balance, which is somewhat easier for kids (because they fail all the time anyway. :P ), but courses exist for adults.
I know there are plenty over here in the Netherlands, especially for immigrants, because many people did not grow up learning how to ride a bicycle.
Around London I found this:
- Learning to ride a bike as an adult in London - London Cyclist.co.uk (http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/adult-guide-to-learning-to-ride-a-bike/) (mostly a guide)
- Training for complete beginners - London school of cycling (http://www.londonschoolofcycling.co.uk/content.php?id=14) (an actual training)
- Where to go on a free cycle training course in London? - London Cyclist.co.uk (http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/where-to-go-on-a-cycle-training-course-in-london/)
- Cycletraining.co.uk (https://www.cycletraining.co.uk/)
- Bikeability - britishcycling.org.uk (https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/cycletraining/article/ct20110111-cycletraining-What-is-Bikeability-0)
Take some courses to get acquainted with the bike and practice together with a buddy in a quiet location.
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How hard is it to learn to bike? I'm always tempted by those parked bikes on the streets, but I can't cycle. Sorry if this is unrelated.
Hmm, for kids it is easy today since they are all using balance bikes and then learn almost instantly using a bicycle. Are there balance bikes for grown ups?
The main thing is to learn confidence in starting from a standstill and balance, which is somewhat easier for kids (because they fail all the time anyway. :P ), but courses exist for adults.
I know there are plenty over here in the Netherlands, especially for immigrants, because many people did not grow up learning how to ride a bicycle.
Around London I found this:
- Learning to ride a bike as an adult in London - London Cyclist.co.uk (http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/adult-guide-to-learning-to-ride-a-bike/) (mostly a guide)
- Training for complete beginners - London school of cycling (http://www.londonschoolofcycling.co.uk/content.php?id=14) (an actual training)
- Where to go on a free cycle training course in London? - London Cyclist.co.uk (http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/where-to-go-on-a-cycle-training-course-in-london/)
- Cycletraining.co.uk (https://www.cycletraining.co.uk/)
- Bikeability - britishcycling.org.uk (https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/cycletraining/article/ct20110111-cycletraining-What-is-Bikeability-0)
Take some courses to get acquainted with the bike and practice together with a buddy in a quiet location.
WTF guys.. it is NOT this difficult.. get one of those $20 bikes at walmart.. takes about 30 minutes to get the basics (as I've described), and a few days to get down proper turning and leaning.
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Thanks for the help guys :-D I'll definitely ask my friends whether they'll teach me too haha
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Arrgh, I might need a proxy for some parts made in USA, which I can't order here anywhere in Europe.
(https://i.imgur.com/6ZM8GJs.jpg)
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Arrgh, I might need a proxy for some parts made in USA, which I can't order here anywhere in Europe.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/6ZM8GJs.jpg)
Hahahaha, guess that's what they do in straya..
Stop stealing people's bikes dude !!
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mmm gumwall tires :)
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Arrgh, I might need a proxy for some parts made in USA, which I can't order here anywhere in Europe.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/6ZM8GJs.jpg)
Looks good, and nice view!
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Daily commuter :)
(https://i.imgur.com/CU22nRt.jpg)
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Daily commuter :)
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/CU22nRt.jpg)
how do ya'll ride on the smaller seats..
I tried those and it really hurt my uh... underbutt bone.
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I really should get a new bike so I can ride properly. I'm still on an old 20" BMX. Haven't ridden it in over a year though, just not practical. Plus I'm super lazy.
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I'm on a 27" hardtail atm, I don't do much mountain and dirt so I really want to trade it in for a road bike but a good solid one ain't cheap, just like keyboards...
I should have enough for an HHKB Type-s in a few weeks, the road bike not so much.
Where are my priorities god damn it...
I really need to think about this...
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Daily commuter :)
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/CU22nRt.jpg)
Looks great, love the pic too! :cool:
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Daily commuter :)
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/CU22nRt.jpg)
Nice bike. Get that stem chopped. ;)
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Looks great, love the pic too! :cool:
:cool: :cool: :cool:
how do ya'll ride on the smaller seats..
I tried those and it really hurt my uh... underbutt bone.
They're really comfy if you find the right position/saddle.
If you don't it can get pretty uncomfortable.
Nice bike. Get that stem chopped. ;)
That's where I hang my helmet though! :p
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how do ya'll ride on the smaller seats..
I tried those and it really hurt my uh... underbutt bone.
They're really comfy if you find the right position/saddle.
If you don't it can get pretty uncomfortable.
Are those seats made mostly for - leaning forward - riding ?
I mostly site upright , not hunched over, because I'm a casual..
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this is my new (2 me) mt. bike
[attach=1]
which i can't ride right now because of
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this is my new (2 me) mt. bike
(Attachment Link)
which i can't ride right now because of
Nice bike, I used to have a Giant Trance, which is similar. They are fun bikes to ride. :)
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this is my new (2 me) mt. bike
(Attachment Link)
which i can't ride right now because of
Nice bike, I used to have a Giant Trance, which is similar. They are fun bikes to ride. :)
sweet yeah the Trance is quite nice also...for various reasons this bike is basically free (given to me) so the price is right and it is a sweet bike... I'm bummed I can't ride it right now however...but soon~
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this is my new (2 me) mt. bike
(Attachment Link)
which i can't ride right now because of
Oooooh, I spot some vintage audio gear. :cool:
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this is my new (2 me) mt. bike
(Attachment Link)
which i can't ride right now because of
yeah I have a bit of vintage audio going on :D
Oooooh, I spot some vintage audio gear. :cool:
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Looks great! I love orange, red or just bikes with a dominating color. Although I am not an expert in mountain bike things :confused: Those trees! Two friends of mine from Austria were last summer and the one before 4 weeks in Canada with their bikes and rent a big car to go biking and camping!
Peru :eek:
This is my cross / gravel / more road bike, in its last iteration, not that perfect, but I *love* to ride it although I am looking again for another bike :rolleyes:
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/Sh8rLUX.jpg)
Looks classy, I like it! :thumb:
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This is a great thread!
Makes me want to go for a couple months and roll down the road. One summer I biked/camped with a buddy from San Diego, CA to Vancouver, BC then back. GREAT TIMES!!!
In 2010 I was planing a 2 mon trip to the west coast of South America... was working out the plan of either bicycling or motorcycling. Then I let life get in the way :(
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Daily commuter :)
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/CU22nRt.jpg)
dem boi
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this is my new (2 me) mt. bike
(Attachment Link)
which i can't ride right now because of
yeah I have a bit of vintage audio going on :D
Oooooh, I spot some vintage audio gear. :cool:
Niiiiice, I love it! ^-^ Might be worth reinvigorating the audio gear thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70627.0)... :D
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Getting snowy here! Or all the time... I swapped my tyres for a tubeless setup, which worked out pretty good so far, I had fears that it would be hard to mount and install and getting it airtight. Also changed to another bar. Ah, and getting soon rid of that Shimano anchor in the back.
(https://i.imgur.com/WhaVclE.jpg)
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is snow bicycling not dangerous ?
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is snow bicycling not dangerous ?
Yes it is, and with these tyres absolute horrible. Going down there the streets are free of snow though.
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is snow bicycling not dangerous ?
Yes it is, and with these tyres absolute horrible. Going down there the streets are free of snow though.
Only when you try to corner or need to brake hard. Other than that it's a lot of fun.
Picked up a brand new Velo Orange Campeur Rack (https://velo-orange.com/collections/racks/products/campeur-front-rack) today through local eBay.
Going to look good on my Randonneur. :)
(http://i.imgur.com/kviNCZxh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/kviNCZx)
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I like that heafty front rack. Do you find it a little easier to manage additional weight on the front rather than the rear? I feel like thats probably a better balance but the rear triangle is definitely stronger
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HT love(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180123/98ba1d6e5fb4007dfcd2bafb3b238fbb.jpg)
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Getting snowy here! Or all the time... I swapped my tyres for a tubeless setup, which worked out pretty good so far, I had fears that it would be hard to mount and install and getting it airtight. Also changed to another bar. Ah, and getting soon rid of that Shimano anchor in the back.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/WhaVclE.jpg)
Very clean :)
I've been planning on going tubeless since I started riding sketchy terrain more, just got some Mavics that are tubeless ready so I might try it out once the tube punctures :p
(https://i.imgur.com/xWeJAw9.jpg)
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Getting snowy here! Or all the time... I swapped my tyres for a tubeless setup, which worked out pretty good so far, I had fears that it would be hard to mount and install and getting it airtight. Also changed to another bar. Ah, and getting soon rid of that Shimano anchor in the back.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/WhaVclE.jpg)
Very clean :)
I've been planning on going tubeless since I started riding sketchy terrain more, just got some Mavics that are tubeless ready so I might try it out once the tube punctures :p
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/xWeJAw9.jpg)
Nice pic! Been thinking about building up a road bike for this summer. Finally scraped up some pocket change for a nice build.
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Ready for urban adventures now. Lock works good with velcro to keep it secure. I bought the stupid plastic mounting brackets originally but this way works better.
[attachimg=1]
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Ready for urban adventures now. Lock works good with velcro to keep it secure. I bought the stupid plastic mounting brackets originally but this way works better.
(Attachment Link)
That's a great idea, gonna try it out if my frame has enough room :eek:
I've been keeping my lock on top of my saddlebag under the saddle which works OK but the back of my thighs hit it occasionally & it's not the most secure fit.
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Ready for urban adventures now. Lock works good with velcro to keep it secure. I bought the stupid plastic mounting brackets originally but this way works better.
(Attachment Link)
That's a great idea, gonna try it out if my frame has enough room :eek:
I've been keeping my lock on top of my saddlebag under the saddle which works OK but the back of my thighs hit it occasionally & it's not the most secure fit.
I also used this air pump holder from Amazon to help secure :
https://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Megablock-Pump-Holder/dp/B001F307JK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1526314545&sr=1-1&keywords=Two+Fish+Megablock+XL+Pump+Holder
I was even able to mount a portable air pump next to the lock along the frame. I don't notice either while riding. Also my water bottle fits just fine and actually is easier to remove while riding since it doesn't fit inside the cage all the way with the lock there. I just need to install my bike computer and buy some led lights or something for night riding and I think I will be set for a while. Well maybe a bell or an airhorn would be useful as well to get people to move out of the way on the trails. :))
A couple more pics:
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
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Currently looking for a bike. I found a really nice bike in my town but the seller said someone else is already looking at it. Kind of hoping that falls through so that I can snatch it for myself. :))
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Currently looking for a bike. I found a really nice bike in my town but the seller said someone else is already looking at it. Kind of hoping that falls through so that I can snatch it for myself. :))
I tried looking for a used bike but I am glad I went with a new road bike for my first bike. I just was not able to find a deal that made sense at the time for the kind of bike I was looking for. At least with a new bike I was able to get one that fit properly and even got it for a decent price since it was a model from the previous year.
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Well I would buy new myself but I have a really low budget, like sub $200. Any of the new stuff is junk and even if they weren't, nothing is even close to the frame size I'm looking for (23"+).
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Well I would buy new myself but I have a really low budget, like sub $200. Any of the new stuff is junk and even if they weren't, nothing is even close to the frame size I'm looking for (23"+).
Hmm...I'd say try and find a vintage bike then. This can be an expensive hobby but it doesn't have to be to get started. You can spend that much alone on shoes. Factor in other accessories over time and it adds up.
[Edit] Speaking of shoes can anyone here recommended some decent clipless pedals and mountain bike shoes? I'm still mashing on the cheap plastic pedals that came with my bike.
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I bought this just a couple of hours ago. About the only thing it needs is a kickstand but is otherwise be ready to go. Vintage Diamond Back Ascent which was a upper-mid range bike back in the day. A little TLC and it should last me quite awhile yet.
(https://i.imgur.com/oFO01SC.jpg)
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Sweet ride. I've had my bike for the past 4 years without a kickstand.
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Ended up picking up parts for a new bike after all! Snagged the last new Allez Sprint chameleon frame in my size, and picked up a rotor power meter and some dura ace 9000 drivetrain pieces. Need to hunt down some nice clinchers but the build is off to a good start.
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Just found this thread - Anyone else here have the N+1 problem with bikes like they do with keyboards? I'm at 5 and it's my max currently (80's retro-upgraded Aluminum Cannondale road, modern carbon Fuji road, steel 70's converted single-speed commuter Peugeot, Norco full-suspension 29'er MTB, and a backup-for-guests single-speed cruiser with fat spring seat and swept handlebars).
Speaking of shoes can anyone here recommended some decent clipless pedals and mountain bike shoes? I'm still mashing on the cheap plastic pedals that came with my bike.
Go with some MTB specific (recessed cleat mount, so you can walk on them when off the bike) clipless shoes on the cheap side (I have some Giros with triple velcro and synthetic leather for <$60) paired with the standard Shimano STD cleats, double-sided pedals. Most other options are variants on the same design. Crank Bros eggbeaters seem like simplicity superiority but don't disengage as cleanly, and cost more. You can also get MTB clipless pedals with platform for extra stability or for use with flat shoes.
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Ended up picking up parts for a new bike after all! Snagged the last new Allez Sprint chameleon frame in my size, and picked up a rotor power meter and some dura ace 9000 drivetrain pieces. Need to hunt down some nice clinchers but the build is off to a good start.
That's going to be a sweet build. Please post some pics once things come together.
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Just found this thread - Anyone else here have the N+1 problem with bikes like they do with keyboards? I'm at 5 and it's my max currently (80's retro-upgraded Aluminum Cannondale road, modern carbon Fuji road, steel 70's converted single-speed commuter Peugeot, Norco full-suspension 29'er MTB, and a backup-for-guests single-speed cruiser with fat spring seat and swept handlebars).
You also need a trainer bike for zwift and a fat tire bike for riding in snow ;D As the old saying goes different horses for different courses. I don't have that problem since I only have space for 1-2 bikes max. I could see myself owning a few down the road though.
Go with some MTB specific (recessed cleat mount, so you can walk on them when off the bike) clipless shoes on the cheap side (I have some Giros with triple velcro and synthetic leather for <$60) paired with the standard Shimano STD cleats, double-sided pedals. Most other options are variants on the same design. Crank Bros eggbeaters seem like simplicity superiority but don't disengage as cleanly, and cost more. You can also get MTB clipless pedals with platform for extra stability or for use with flat shoes.
Thanks for the response. I'll be going to a bike shop soon to check some out in person.
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Just found this thread - Anyone else here have the N+1 problem with bikes like they do with keyboards? I'm at 5 and it's my max currently (80's retro-upgraded Aluminum Cannondale road, modern carbon Fuji road, steel 70's converted single-speed commuter Peugeot, Norco full-suspension 29'er MTB, and a backup-for-guests single-speed cruiser with fat spring seat and swept handlebars).
You also need a trainer bike for zwift and a fat tire bike for riding in snow ;D As the old saying goes different horses for different courses. I don't have that problem since I only have space for 1-2 bikes max. I could see myself owning a few down the road though.
The cannondale does duty on the trainer (rollers when I am feeling frisky, else stationary back-wheel stand) and goes out in bad weather as the beater, so I don't feel bad about mucking up the carbon road.
Snow season I ditch rubber and go sliding on the snowboard(s)!
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I haven't settled on a any pedals or shoes just yet. I also might check out some saddles while I'm at it.
I've added a few goodies though.
Cateye Strada computer
[attach=1]
Crane bell (loud AF) and scared some people :thumb:
[attach=2]
Lezyne Zecto Drive 250 Lumen headlight
[attach=3]
Lezyne Zecto Drive Tail light
[attach=4]
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I haven't settled on a any pedals or shoes just yet. I also might check out some saddles while I'm at it.
I've added a few goodies though.
Cateye Strada computer
(Attachment Link)
Crane bell (loud AF) and scared some people :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
Lezyne Zecto Drive 250 Lumen headlight
(Attachment Link)
Lezyne Zecto Drive Tail light
(Attachment Link)
Loud AF bell is best bell, that's the whole point! Best light is a bright light that has charge when you need it!
Figuring out best saddle is literally a pain in the ass. Best is if the store has sample/test saddles for you to use for extended trial (more than just sitting on it mounted in the store or jamming it into your crouch while standing). Or, ask point blank what their return policy is on saddles, some are lenient and will let you return it after X time as long as not worn, damaged, or stained. Some of the places will have memory foam pad measuring boards for you to sit down on and then measure how far apart your sitbones are to recommend a specific type or model of saddle that will match/support that width. It's really one of those things that I've found I have to try more things out to figure out what I don't like in order to find the one that I like.
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This here is my 29er Specialized Stumpjumper. It is full carbon and is rocking some Shimano Clipless. I forget the bell I bought for it but it looks wonderful and sounds bloody loud!
(https://i.imgur.com/7DaUYPn.jpg)
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Loud AF bell is best bell, that's the whole point! Best light is a bright light that has charge when you need it!
Figuring out best saddle is literally a pain in the ass. Best is if the store has sample/test saddles for you to use for extended trial (more than just sitting on it mounted in the store or jamming it into your crouch while standing). Or, ask point blank what their return policy is on saddles, some are lenient and will let you return it after X time as long as not worn, damaged, or stained. Some of the places will have memory foam pad measuring boards for you to sit down on and then measure how far apart your sitbones are to recommend a specific type or model of saddle that will match/support that width. It's really one of those things that I've found I have to try more things out to figure out what I don't like in order to find the one that I like.
I never needed a bell where I used to live and there were plenty of people on the trails. I guess people are a bit different in bigger cities. It really can be quite dangerous with children and peoples dogs running about and blissfully unaware pedestrians with earbuds cranked up to the max.
I found something interesting as far as saddle fitment. Prologo has a fitting system. Their saddles are expensive but if anything perhaps the information might provide some insights into saddle selections in general. There is a dealer around so I might try and have a fitment done.
http://www.prologotouch.com/prologoTouch/myown-tutorials/
Also I am eyeing some Shimano clipless pedals. Not race pedals but ones I can get going on even if not clipped in.
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My crank got stripped it literally the day after riding my new bike. Had to pay $70 to get the entire crankcase replaced. Luckily the local shop (rated number 1 in America to boot :)) ) only charged the cost of the parts plus $30 for labor. At least the crank broke within the first 0.1 miles of my residence and not after I had already gotten to work 4 miles away.
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[attachimg=1]
oh!! totally forgot to post this pic from my phone. this pic is already on my instagram @keyfiends but i'll be posting more pics as i build up my chameleon allez sprint frame. the red hook paint job is so legit and i'll be taking some better pictures of it this weekend.
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(Attachment Link)
oh!! totally forgot to post this pic from my phone. this pic is already on my instagram @keyfiends but i'll be posting more pics as i build up my chameleon allez sprint frame. the red hook paint job is so legit and i'll be taking some better pictures of it this weekend.
:eek: :eek: :eek:
That is so rad!
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That paint scheme is wild.
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(Attachment Link)
oh!! totally forgot to post this pic from my phone. this pic is already on my instagram @keyfiends but i'll be posting more pics as i build up my chameleon allez sprint frame. the red hook paint job is so legit and i'll be taking some better pictures of it this weekend.
Holy F*CK that is a hot paint job!
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(Attachment Link)
oh!! totally forgot to post this pic from my phone. this pic is already on my instagram @keyfiends but i'll be posting more pics as i build up my chameleon allez sprint frame. the red hook paint job is so legit and i'll be taking some better pictures of it this weekend.
That is one hell of a paint job, very trippy!!
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Here is that frame already built into a bike. It's a piece of art.
https://www.lavelocita.cc/la-velocita-reviews/specialized-allez-dsw-sl-sprint-frame-review
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Uh that last link wouldn't open - can you post the pic?
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Uh that last link wouldn't open - can you post the pic?
Even better, a video review.
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World bicycle day today. Time for a bike ride :D
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Made it 40 miles riding through a head wind. Only stopped for beer twice :thumb:
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Made it 40 miles riding through a head wind. Only stopped for beer twice :thumb:
DUI, this is illegal !!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180606/6b02b9cf3c2b61cc5930539623c5f1d7.jpg)
My baby
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Uh that last link wouldn't open - can you post the pic?
Even better, a video review.
Damn, that bike is sick. Love the paint job. :thumb:
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(Attachment Link)
oh!! totally forgot to post this pic from my phone. this pic is already on my instagram @keyfiends but i'll be posting more pics as i build up my chameleon allez sprint frame. the red hook paint job is so legit and i'll be taking some better pictures of it this weekend.
Looks fast :cool:
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I have a few road bikes and the Pure Cycle Volta I received a few weeks ago is my favorite. Super fun to ride as a normal bike but also has battery assist for 40 miles. Goes up to 20 mph, built-in lights and GPS, built-in bell and basket. For me, it's the perfect bike.
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Just got this up and rideable this weekend after having the parts in my basement for nearly a decade. Still a WIP. Thinking of converting it to an e-bike with a Tongsheng TSDZ2, which wasn't an option when I bought most of the parts.
Why does it seem un-surprising to me that keyboard people would also be bike people?
[attachimg=1]
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Just got this up and rideable this weekend after having the parts in my basement for nearly a decade. Still a WIP. Thinking of converting it to an e-bike with a Tongsheng TSDZ2, which wasn't an option when I bought most of the parts.
Why does it seem un-surprising to me that keyboard people would also be bike people?
(Attachment Link)
That is lovely af! Love the grips and the front rack, though the chainguard seems a tad aggressive in its coverage (IMO).
Are they selling electric-assist retrofit kits that are universal now, or does it take some hackery to work?
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Just got this up and rideable this weekend after having the parts in my basement for nearly a decade. Still a WIP. Thinking of converting it to an e-bike with a Tongsheng TSDZ2, which wasn't an option when I bought most of the parts.
Why does it seem un-surprising to me that keyboard people would also be bike people?
(Attachment Link)
An ebike would be sweet! That thing looks so pristine!
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Heh. The chainguard is just sitting there for the photo. Not yet fully installed.
The bike is intended to be an homage to the French porteur bikes as built by parisian constructuers like Rene Herse and Alex Singer:
http://www.blackbirdsf.org/courierracing/velos.html (http://www.blackbirdsf.org/courierracing/velos.html)
This velo-orange frame was only about $400 however. Of course that was in 2008 dollars. The idea was that the bike should be cool, but not so fancy that I'd be afraid to ride it around town and lock it up places.
This style of chainguard, the front rack, and the reverse brake levers are common porteur elements. I suppose the shellaced cotton grips are too, though I arrived at them as a bit of an accident. I had to use a 23.8mm bar to fit the aero bar end levers, and no other grips would fit, especially with the cable running under the bar so I had to make my own. That turns out to be exactly what they often did back then too.
As far as the e-bike conversion kits go, I've been doing quite a bit of research. There are basically 2 common Chinese mid-mount ones that claim to fit 95% of existing bikes, the Bafang BBS-02 and the Tongsheng TSDZ2.
There are a couple of retailers that sell them in the US, but my research suggests that ordering direct from Aliexpress can save you 40%. You can get the Tongsheng 48v, 750W TSDZ2 and a "52v" 17ah "shark pack" battery that mounts on the bottle cage holes on the downtube for under $1k shipped. 2/3 of that cost is in the battery. A smaller capacity battery, or one that uses slightly less efficient Korean made cells from Samsung or LG rather than Japanese made Sanyo 18650s can shave $200-350 from that. I've watched several tsdz2 install videos on youtube. It doesn't look very hard.
The vid that convinced me:
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Ha I considered getting a nicer bike, but I'm pretty happy with my vintage Diamond Back. It's rough enough that I'm less worried about theft, but still plenty sturdy.
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Heh. The chainguard is just sitting there for the photo. Not yet fully installed.
The bike is intended to be an homage to the French porteur bikes as built by parisian constructuers like Rene Herse and Alex Singer:
http://www.blackbirdsf.org/courierracing/velos.html (http://www.blackbirdsf.org/courierracing/velos.html)
This velo-orange frame was only about $400 however. Of course that was in 2008 dollars. The idea was that the bike should be cool, but not so fancy that I'd be afraid to ride it around town and lock it up places.
This style of chainguard, the front rack, and the reverse brake levers are common porteur elements. I suppose the shellaced cotton grips are too, though I arrived at them as a bit of an accident. I had to use a 23.8mm bar to fit the aero bar end levers, and no other grips would fit, especially with the cable running under the bar so I had to make my own. That turns out to be exactly what they often did back then too.
As far as the e-bike conversion kits go, I've been doing quite a bit of research. There are basically 2 common Chinese mid-mount ones that claim to fit 95% of existing bikes, the Bafang BBS-02 and the Tongsheng TSDZ2.
There are a couple of retailers that sell them in the US, but my research suggests that ordering direct from Aliexpress can save you 40%. You can get the Tongsheng 48v, 750W TSDZ2 and a "52v" 17ah "shark pack" battery that mounts on the bottle cage holes on the downtube for under $1k shipped. 2/3 of that cost is in the battery. A smaller capacity battery, or one that uses slightly less efficient Korean made cells from Samsung or LG rather than Japanese made Sanyo 18650s can shave $200-350 from that. I've watched several tsdz2 install videos on youtube. It doesn't look very hard.
The vid that convinced me:
Yeah the chainguard looked "off", and being that it was not mounted makes sense. Are you planning on keeping it raw/unfinished metal or planning to paint it to match the rest of the bike more cleanly?
Also, thanks for the pointers on the e-bike retro-conversion options! Will have to dive down that rabbit-hole sometime. Could be great options to get my mom out on a bike, since me and dad are already cycle-fiends.
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Yeah I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it in terms of finish. I've thought about it a few times. I have an HVLP gun so in theory I could paint it myself, but I'm leaning towards leaving it as is.
As I said, these parts were from velo-orange circa 2008, just as they were beginning to get into the business. Their finishing capabilities were uh... limited at the time, but they've gotten a lot more professional since.
The fenders are also unpolished, and I don't especially love the matte paint on the frame. I suppose I think that if I were to polish or paint the chain guard, then I'd also have to do the fenders, then both would look better than the frame so I'd have to paint that too... It's a deep rabbit hole that I'm not sure I'm up for going down.
I guess I'm looking at this particular bike as something of a research platform/daily driver. It just is what it is. If I want a real heirloom dream bike, which I wouldn't completely rule out someday, there are something like 30 frame builders in town. I'd love to commission a handmade vintage-ish lugged frame steel bike with top of the line components, but if I did that I'm not sure I'd build another city bike.
http://oregonframebuilders.org/ohbs/ (http://oregonframebuilders.org/ohbs/)
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Yeah I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it in terms of finish. I've thought about it a few times. I have an HVLP gun so in theory I could paint it myself, but I'm leaning towards leaving it as is.
As I said, these parts were from velo-orange circa 2008, just as they were beginning to get into the business. Their finishing capabilities were uh... limited at the time, but they've gotten a lot more professional since.
The fenders are also unpolished, and I don't especially love the matte paint on the frame. I suppose I think that if I were to polish or paint the chain guard, then I'd also have to do the fenders, then both would look better than the frame so I'd have to paint that too... It's a deep rabbit hole that I'm not sure I'm up for going down.
I guess I'm looking at this particular bike as something of a research platform/daily driver. It just is what it is. If I want a real heirloom dream bike, which I wouldn't completely rule out someday, there are something like 30 frame builders in town. I'd love to commission a handmade vintage-ish lugged frame steel bike with top of the line components, but if I did that I'm not sure I'd build another city bike.
http://oregonframebuilders.org/ohbs/ (http://oregonframebuilders.org/ohbs/)
Yeah I noticed your location after my first comment, and realized the potential you have to really put some money into that thing in PDX! IMHO, I think it looks fine/great with the silver/chrome/raw aluminum accents from the handlebars, rack, fenders... Just that big block of the unfinished chain guard is giant block that isn't as much an accent because it's pure surface area! If you want cheap/DIY finish, I've had good luck with plasti-dip (spray version) to give a durable and protective coat that can also be easily removed/peeled and redone as needed (compared to traditional paint where you have to fully strip in order to properly paint it back up). I just think the chainguard would look better in black, or maybe do some detail on it where you keep some silver along the perimeter as accents and black/paint out the core section.
In all, it's a great looking setup, and I love humble workhorse bikes. This is my Peugeot that I brought back from France (picked up for 50 Euros while following TdF during Lance's 6th yellow jersey bid), which has since picked up a rear rack and some new tape, as well as a pricey but well worth Phil Wood bottom bracket:
(https://i.imgur.com/vcHmeuo.jpg)
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That is a lovely ride. I love the stronglight crank set, and the pump is where it should be! You see them along the top tube a lot, but it makes slinging the bike on your shoulder difficult. It belongs where it is on yours. That must be what, early 90s? I'm trying to remember when white saddles were in.
I find lately, that if the top tube isn't horizontal I'm just not interested. I think my next ride is going to be a steel low trail randonneuring bike, one size up from what I'm "supposed" to ride because it's so much more comfortable, with a flat top tube.
Apparently everything that I consider a normal bike is now "vintage". I've even seen steel bikes referred to as "reenactment" bikes by carbon racer loving types. Bike racer types are super *****y on the internet.
I just don't get it. Are your blue jeans "gold rush re-enactment pants"? Are those leather shoes "vintage style" footware? If you cook stuff on a gas burner instead of in the microwave is it "throwback cooking"? A steel bike with normal geometry like yours is just the canonical "bike".
Took my first ride with the electric assist last night. Installation took an hour or so over the weekend, then the battery arrived yesterday. I still have a bit of wiring to finish up to get the tail light working, but damn it's pretty fun. It feels more like a bike than I expected, just with a little extra kick. I call it the hill flattener, because that's about all you notice about it.
Its funny that you mention plasti-dip because I just bought a can. I took one of those cheap clear plastic keyboard cases and plasti-dipped the inside of it. I figured it would get a nice 3dish effect, plus work as a dampener. The effect was less dramatic than I'd hoped but it looks pretty good. Better than trying to spray paint the outside of the case anyway.
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I'm looking at a job which would involve a significant commute and not liking the lack of control over the journey length while driving (having to allow an extra 20 minutes every day just in case there's traffic and still being late sometimes) a ~15 mile each way bike ride along the canal sounds like my best option. Unfortunately this puts me in the standard newbie position of wanting the best tool for the job but not knowing what that is!
After asking my local bike shop if they had anything used they said no and, assuming I wasn't made of money, suggested I should look at front suspension, big wheels and lots of gears. I tried a 'hybrid' (looks like a skinny mountain bike but with road tyres) and an entry level mountain bike. They were £400 but reading around the forks on both are both SR Suntour and take a hammering in enthusiast circles, and both have mechanical disk brakes which aren't the best.
For around the same money I can get a decent looking 5-10 year old full suspension XC bike on ebay which is only lacking in the 'big wheels' and warranty but has the bonuses of rear suspension and hydraulic brakes. Sure it will weigh more than the new ones but don't think I'll care on a level track. The last time I rode a bike was with a paper bag on each shoulder :))
I then get thinking that some offroading at the weekend could be fun and a used DH bike isn't much more money, and again would I really notice the extra weight?
Obviously the best option is finding someone willing to let me test a selection of bikes on the actual route but that's not going to happen.
Is there anything else I should consider before I take a punt on something which I will never know is/isn't doing a good job?
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If you are going to be on pavement more than 90% of the time, you will certainly notice the extra weight of a mountain bike. The suspension is great for rough terrain though. I'd definitely look at used, get a decent brand. I trust my 20+ year old Diamond Back to some of the junk I see in sports stores these days.
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I'm looking at a job which would involve a significant commute and not liking the lack of control over the journey length while driving (having to allow an extra 20 minutes every day just in case there's traffic and still being late sometimes) a ~15 mile each way bike ride along the canal sounds like my best option. Unfortunately this puts me in the standard newbie position of wanting the best tool for the job but not knowing what that is!
After asking my local bike shop if they had anything used they said no and, assuming I wasn't made of money, suggested I should look at front suspension, big wheels and lots of gears. I tried a 'hybrid' (looks like a skinny mountain bike but with road tyres) and an entry level mountain bike. They were £400 but reading around the forks on both are both SR Suntour and take a hammering in enthusiast circles, and both have mechanical disk brakes which aren't the best.
For around the same money I can get a decent looking 5-10 year old full suspension XC bike on ebay which is only lacking in the 'big wheels' and warranty but has the bonuses of rear suspension and hydraulic brakes. Sure it will weigh more than the new ones but don't think I'll care on a level track. The last time I rode a bike was with a paper bag on each shoulder :))
I then get thinking that some offroading at the weekend could be fun and a used DH bike isn't much more money, and again would I really notice the extra weight?
Obviously the best option is finding someone willing to let me test a selection of bikes on the actual route but that's not going to happen.
Is there anything else I should consider before I take a punt on something which I will never know is/isn't doing a good job?
definitely get on a road bike. you would go quite a bit faster. i wouldn't even think about a dh bike, they're so incredibly heavy and chunky. if you shop used bikes you can definitely find something nice for a fraction of the price, and you'd be surprised as to how much you can get out of your budget. my carbon mtb only ran me $500 complete so there are definitely very good deals out there.
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Thanks Blaise and Sniping - it's mostly hard soil and gravel now/mud in the winter rather than pavement, flat (next to waterway) but far from smooth so a road bike is not an option.
My main hesitation with buying used is I know nothing so if the seller says it's good I can't argue, but there is certainly a lot more bike available for the money (as with pretty much anything that's available second hand...)
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Bikes are pretty simple machines, mainly you'll just need to check:
- The chain to be sure it isn't rusted (or it will need to be replaced after buying)
- Gears to be sure they actually swap links
- Brakes to make sure it stops
Of course there are some other things to look out for but it's mostly common sense stuff. If the bike doesn't feel right, look for something different. There's something to be said for giving the bike a nice test ride before buying it, if the seller refuses then you leave and don't pay a dime (who knows what they are hiding).
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You should look at what they're calling "gravel" or sometimes "adventure" bikes these days. A road-ish bike with drop bars, slightly relaxed seat tube angle, with maybe a bit more length in the chainstays for comfort and to fit bigger knobby tires without fenders, or wider road tires with fenders. Sometimes these are done with 650b wheels instead of 700c so you can fit anywhere from 42-47mm tires. A 650b wheel with a big tire has about the same rolling diameter as a 700c wheel with a smaller tire but the ride is a lot more cushy. These are basically all purpose bicycles for varied terrain, but in the US you can't sell bikes as "transportation" they have to be sold as "sporting goods" hence the made up categories. I'd also consider a randonneuring rig, or I think it's maybe known as "audax" in the UK.
I'd also seriously consider a pedal assist ebike. If you consider that average cycling speed on a traditional bike is something like 15-18mph on flat terrain, and 9.5mph on a 5% incline, you're 15mi each way commute is going to take roughly 2hrs a day on a regular bike. An ebike can cut 1/3 or more off of that, especially in the most strenuous sections. Studies show that even avid cyclists who intend to commute daily only do so something like 2.7 times per week, whereas those same people on an electric assist bike up their commute days to 3-4/wk. I'm just going from memory on this as I don't remember where I saw this study and don't have time to look. The actual numbers may be slightly different, but its something in this range.
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Bikes are pretty simple machines, mainly you'll just need to check:
- The chain to be sure it isn't rusted (or it will need to be replaced after buying)
- Gears to be sure they actually swap links
- Brakes to make sure it stops
Of course there are some other things to look out for but it's mostly common sense stuff. If the bike doesn't feel right, look for something different. There's something to be said for giving the bike a nice test ride before buying it, if the seller refuses then you leave and don't pay a dime (who knows what they are hiding).
Thanks for the reassurance, I guess random squeaks come under common sense - there should be none.
You should look at what they're calling "gravel" or sometimes "adventure" bikes these days. A road-ish bike with drop bars, slightly relaxed seat tube angle, with maybe a bit more length in the chainstays for comfort and to fit bigger knobby tires without fenders, or wider road tires with fenders. Sometimes these are done with 650b wheels instead of 700c so you can fit anywhere from 42-47mm tires. A 650b wheel with a big tire has about the same rolling diameter as a 700c wheel with a smaller tire but the ride is a lot more cushy.
These are basically all purpose bicycles for varied terrain, but in the US you can't sell bikes as "transportation" they have to be sold as "sporting goods" hence the made up categories. I'd also consider a randonneuring rig, or I think it's maybe known as "audax" in the UK.
Both gravel bikes and audax look more like road racers complete with bald tyres and curly handle bars - no thanks :))
From the description of big nobbly tyres it sounds like what we call 'fat bikes' which are basically weak looking frames attached to huge wheels? Probably a standard frame but compared to the wheels they just look weak, much like the 'hybrid' I tried. I've been reading that a big half flat tyre would probably be enough 'suspension' for the path but not sure it would like the pavement to get there?
Currently considering a very tidy looking 2008 Stumpjumper Elite but it's 26' wheels and only 2x9 gears. I wonder which ones they chopped off...
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Got a Brooks saddle. Hurts my tush.
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Both gravel bikes and audax look more like road racers complete with bald tyres and curly handle bars - no thanks :))
From the description of big nobbly tyres it sounds like what we call 'fat bikes' which are basically weak looking frames attached to huge wheels? Probably a standard frame but compared to the wheels they just look weak, much like the 'hybrid' I tried. I've been reading that a big half flat tyre would probably be enough 'suspension' for the path but not sure it would like the pavement to get there?
Currently considering a very tidy looking 2008 Stumpjumper Elite but it's 26' wheels and only 2x9 gears. I wonder which ones they chopped off...
I've been seeing these fat bikes around lately and I don't get it. I'm not sure what they're for, but damn it's not commuting! Perhaps being towed up a mountain by a ski lift and then rolling down. I don't see what else they'd be good for. I have zero interest in this gimmicky crap.
As far as knobby tires go, a lot depends on the surface you'll be traversing. For the most part a good 32-42mm road type tire works on pavement, gravel, and hard packed dirt. Knobs only really come into play if you're facing mud. Otherwise they'll just slow you down. 30mi a day on knobby tires is a lot of extra work.
As far as the curly bars on gravel bikes go, I'd at least try one or two. While they may *look* like road bikes, it's all about the position the bike puts you in. There are plenty of good gravel bikes that put you in a comfortable upright position when you're on the tops of the bars. That's where you'll spend most of your time. In any sort of bike you intend to commute on, look for a bike where you can put the handlebars at seat height or higher. If the bars are a lot lower than the seat, you're going to be in an uncomfortable position where you're neck is craned, and there's a lot of weight on your hands and wrists. You should be able to support yourself in your riding position with no hands. If you can't do that try a different bike, or a bigger version of the one the salesman handed you. Here in the US anyway, most salesmen size you for a "racing" fit- basically the smallest frame you could possibly fit on. What I want in a commuter is more of a "french fit"- the largest frame I can standover without crushing the family jewels. I suppose if you're a lot younger than me this level of comfort matters less, but at my age I have no pretense of being the next Chris Froome. I just want to get there eventually and enjoy the ride.
Gravel and audax bikes also fit all the accessories you're going to want on a commuter that don't fit well on a racing bike- fenders, racks, lights, and bags. This stuff matters more than you might initially think. It's about fitness for purpose. If the bike doesn't meet all of your requirements, you'll have an excuse every day. No bag or rack, can't bring my laptop and a change of clothes! No fenders and it's raining- I'll get all muddy! No lights, it's too dark, unsafe in the winter! Knobby tires- too slow! Pretty soon that bike's been sitting in the corner for 6 months and you've wasted your investment.
As for bars, where the drops come in for me is in headwinds. The first time you get caught in a gusting, freezing, rainy headwind that stands you up and 1/2s your speed on your nice upright commuter, you'll be weeping bitter tears about your lack of drops which allow you to get low and tucked, just for the next couple of miles, just so you can get home out of the rain!
The other thing drop bars give you is several different hand positions. 15mi is a long way to hold the same hand position.My city bike has swept back bars (because it looks cool!) but after 5mi or so I start grumbling, wishing I had drop bars so I could switch positions because my left wrist is going numb.
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Thanks for that bill - I asked for things to consider and you've come up with plenty. The only other option to cycling is walking and that's not going to happen so no worries about hiding from the rain or making excuses, 15 minutes walking was enough to get soaked to the skin and that happened regularly so nothing new (except considering posture in wind!) 99% sure I won't need to transport a laptop or tools but no idea if I'll need a change of clothes, and I'd never have considered wanting to change hand position...
Still not liking the look of these gravel bikes though, no matter how expensive there's still no suspension and the thin tyres aren't going to offer any - might be OK on a rich person's well maintained gravel driveway but it's not going to be comfortable for miles of bumpy track.
So big frame, low seat, bendy handlebars and summer tyres a bonus - if I want offroad fun at the weekend this bike will be staying home :))
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I love drop bars (more aerodynamic?) but if the frame sizing isn't just right they're great at causing a good amount of back/shoulder pain for those with longer midsections. One of the problems I had with my old 84 World Sport ten speed, the frame was just a tad too small. Suppose I could have bought a handlebar riser and wider handbars come to think of it. Oh well, hindsight and whatnot.
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Well good luck in your search. I've been eyeing Brompton's lately. Not that I need another bike... Super clever design, easy to take on the bus or the train, and bonus-- English made!
Or another English classic still being made (though I guess not in England), Behold the reproduction Dursley-Pedersen!
ab_channel=KemperFahrradtechnik
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I love drop bars (more aerodynamic?) but if the frame sizing isn't just right they're great at causing a good amount of back/shoulder pain for those with longer midsections. One of the problems I had with my old 84 World Sport ten speed, the frame was just a tad too small. Suppose I could have bought a handlebar riser and wider handbars come to think of it. Oh well, hindsight and whatnot.
Thanks for your thoughts, but how on earth do I know if I have a 'longer midsection'? Reading around about bodies (as if I don't have enough to learn about bikes!) the typical femur is 1/4 total height but mine's about half my leg yet when I fold myself in half my leg is much longer than my torso+head, so I must be doing it wrong. Or I have a really short midsection, which assumedly gives other problems when sizing a bike? :confused:
Think I need to give up on finding perfection and just buy something and not look back, advice which could be applied across my entire life.
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I love drop bars (more aerodynamic?) but if the frame sizing isn't just right they're great at causing a good amount of back/shoulder pain for those with longer midsections. One of the problems I had with my old 84 World Sport ten speed, the frame was just a tad too small. Suppose I could have bought a handlebar riser and wider handbars come to think of it. Oh well, hindsight and whatnot.
Thanks for your thoughts, but how on earth do I know if I have a 'longer midsection'? Reading around about bodies (as if I don't have enough to learn about bikes!) the typical femur is 1/4 total height but mine's about half my leg yet when I fold myself in half my leg is much longer than my torso+head, so I must be doing it wrong. Or I have a really short midsection, which assumedly gives other problems when sizing a bike? :confused:
Think I need to give up on finding perfection and just buy something and not look back, advice which could be applied across my entire life.
All I can say is that if I find the need for another road bike I'm going to either use a bullhorn handbar or a straight handlebar. But honestly, a good bike shop will size you up and already know what sizes and styles will give you trouble.
I'm just too stubburn to ask questions.
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But honestly, a good bike shop will size you up and already know what sizes and styles will give you trouble.
I'm just too stubburn to ask questions.
Yeah, they would. If only they had used bikes I'd be happy to ask more but it doesn't seem right when I'm not going to buy anything, plus the new models they have won't be available used yet so it wouldn't really help
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Sorry for the double post but a strange looking option (always a good thing to my mind) has come up. It's an XC bike that supposedly works best while seated at speed and the seat will be right down so lower than the bars and 29 lbs isn't that heavy. 'Needs' summer tyres and I can always swap to bendy bars... Am I mad? (There should be a pic below)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/95EAAOSwqYBbShk4/s-l1600.jpg)
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Regarding bike sizing, this is not the current, common method but it works best for me. Probably not strictly applicable to the type of bike you're looking at.
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/choosing-a-frame-size
You know more about the path you're planning to take than anybody else, but is the full suspension really necessary? Does it lock? Climbing with front suspension that doesn't lock sucks.
Aside from the energy wasted as suspension input during pedaling, the other problem that I've always had with this sort of bike is that the suspension pieces add complexity and require additional maintenance. Sometimes more complexity is worth it and sometimes it isn't. Only you can decide. If the path you're taking is more like single track than pavement, its conceivable that you could end up being faster with the suspension.
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Thanks again Bill - little did I know seat height was an official term in bike sizing, not sure if the seller knows this but assuming he does I'm out of luck as even without allowing a fist/seven fingers of stem to show my 82cm PBH isn't going to let me reach the bottom of the pedal stroke if it's 80cm as suggested.
As to the path I don't think it needs full suspension but if the bike has it and it does no harm I can ride elsewhere at the weekend which would be a bonus. Supposedly the strange design greatly reduces the need for lockout but I wasn't planning on climbing anything fast so shouldn't be an issue - rush to work, enjoy the ride at the weekend :)
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I'm not sure exactly how the Rivendell sizing method would apply to a full suspension XC bike. it sure looks like you'd have plenty of room to lower the saddle in that photo. This method is more for what are now, I suppose, considered "retro" type bikes- steel frames with horizontal top tubes. That's more or less what Rivendell makes and though I don't have one of theirs, it's more or less what I prefer in a bike.
Except for this, which I just came across today:
ab_channel=MattEdmundson
That's a truly handsome, if extremely teutonic e-bike. Price isn't bad as far as e-bikes go either. Damn, I kind of wish I needed an e-bike. I wonder if they ship to the US?
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The Ampler looks like - a bike! That is impressive compared to the random ugly lumps often attached to e-bikes but sadly no suspension so not on my shortlist (nevermind the price tag :)))
As for sizing surely seat height + crank length would have to be less than PBH regardless of the type of bike otherwise the rider will have to extend their foot to pedal? Still waiting on clarification whether the seller knows that's how it's measured, all I have is 'seat height goes from about 80-100cm'
Edit: Just checked where I'm going and it's next to the river (no path) not the canal so need to add a couple of miles of road into the equation. That means lights are an instant necessity so yet another thing to look at!
Edit 2: Went to another shop for a look and something became clear: the best thing about hybrid bikes is the mudguards attached to/near the hubs but there's a serious flaw - if you get them you have to have V brakes. This means if it's wet you stay will stay very clean, but only as long as you don't crash due to brake failure which is more likely :confused:
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Fortunately you can get cheap lights for your bike for less than $5. They won't be fancy, but you can always upgrade later.
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Dyno lights! You just never have to think about them, they're always on. The Shutter Precision dyno hub is a screaming good deal too. I've seen them as low as $80 and they're nearly as efficient as the $300 Schmidt's.
As for v-brakes, I assume you're comparing them to discs? Let's just be clear here, rim brakes were standard for a hundred years. Hell discs just became legal in the pro peloton as of Jul 1, mostly driven by manufacturers is my guess. How can you have your pros riding bikes with technology you don't sell anymore? We'll see how popular it is with the riders when guys start getting nasty gashes from spinning rotors in big pileups.
Rim brakes have a number of advantages of their own. They're lighter, less complicated, and can be more aerodynamic. I guess discs are supposed to be better in the wet and I don't doubt that, but I've been riding around the PacNW for 30 years on rim brakes and have never worried about failure. Bottom line is that a bike is light enough that you can panic stop the wheel into a skid with any brake, at which point you're equally f*cked. If they start offering disc brakes with ABS then maybe I'd be interested!
Interesting article:
https://pelotonmagazine.com/gear/disc-brakes-will-revolutionize-bicycle%E2%88%97/
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If they start offering disc brakes with ABS then maybe I'd be interested!
Oh wow, I would love to read the technical specs of ABS brakes for cyclists if that ever becomes a thing.
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http://www.kingindustries.ca/SABS.htm
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Fortunately you can get cheap lights for your bike for less than $5. They won't be fancy, but you can always upgrade later.
Dyno lights! You just never have to think about them, they're always on. The Shutter Precision dyno hub is a screaming good deal too. I've seen them as low as $80 and they're nearly as efficient as the $300 Schmidt's.
From one extreme to the other :))
As great as the hubs look I don't think I've seen any bike review where they recommend upgrading the wheels as top priority, so unless I go for a custom build (unlikely given the ever shrinking timescale) I'll probably have to settle for something imbetween.
As for v-brakes, I assume you're comparing them to discs? Let's just be clear here, rim brakes were standard for a hundred years. ... Rim brakes have a number of advantages of their own. They're lighter, less complicated, and can be more aerodynamic. I guess discs are supposed to be better in the wet and I don't doubt that, but I've been riding around the PacNW for 30 years on rim brakes and have never worried about failure. Bottom line is that a bike is light enough that you can panic stop the wheel into a skid with any brake, at which point you're equally f*cked. If they start offering disc brakes with ABS then maybe I'd be interested!
Interesting article:
https://pelotonmagazine.com/gear/disc-brakes-will-revolutionize-bicycle%E2%88%97/
Interesting article, not sure I should trust a guy who sells pedals to tell me I don't need suspension though!
To my simple mind rim brakes must be worse in mud because either you aren't pressing them but they're still near the rim so causing a bit of drag as they knock mud off, or they're trying to grip a surface that's covered in mud which can't be efficient. Also pressing bits of gravel into the rim wall sounds like it should do damage and it's much cheaper/easier to replace a dedicated brake disc. This is probably partly marketing though - many years ago when I was at school and last had a bike only the really expensive ones had discs so they had to be better and today only the cheapest* don't. Perhaps bike tech should join other areas where 'good enough' was reached long ago.
* There were some non-cheap road-ish looking bikes with proper mudguards and V brakes which I didn't give a second glance to. Maybe I should...
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http://www.kingindustries.ca/SABS.htm
Copyright © 2011 King Industries | All rights reserved
Seemed like a good idea. I'm a bit vary of a website that hasn't been updated since 2011 though.
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"It exceeded EN standard's braking distance." - Isn't this the easiest way to fail the test? :))
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"It exceeded EN standard's braking distance." - Isn't this the easiest way to fail the test? :))
Right?
If I were to buy a new bike today i'd probably go disc as well. It's just where the industry is headed, for better or worse. That said, a lot of bike fashion has come and gone over the last 30 years. I had some dutch friends who thought my 80s mountain bike was super cool back in the day and all the dutch Omafeits and cargo bikes they had were ugly and dumb. Now riding your kids around on a bakfiet is the height of cool in my home town and mountain bikes are out. Go figure.
The other thing you might want to consider with discs is whether they're hydraulic or cable actuated. I'm not sure what the difference to the user is, but I know they come in both types. The bike thing? It's a sink hole.
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If you are racing with carbon wheels, ride fast in the wet or make any fast descents down mountains then disc brakes are the way to go. I'm building a new bike but chose to go with rim brakes. I don't ride down mountains (yet) and wanted to integrate my nice wheelset. Also if I wanted to go more aero there are the HED Jet wheels which have an aluminum rim brake track for the best braking with rim brakes. Also I didn't go with fancy electronic shifting either. I'm still happy with some of the old school features.
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Oh wow, I would love to read the technical specs of ABS brakes for cyclists if that ever becomes a thing.
I don't know if anything like that exists but I wouldn't be too surprised. Electronic, wireless shifting exists for bikes. Electronic, wireless, AUTOMATIC, shifting exists even. ABS doesn't seem like a stretch in that light, especially since, just like disc brakes, its already a well established technology in the automotive space.
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"It exceeded EN standard's braking distance." - Isn't this the easiest way to fail the test? :))
Right?
If I were to buy a new bike today i'd probably go disc as well. It's just where the industry is headed, for better or worse. That said, a lot of bike fashion has come and gone over the last 30 years. I had some dutch friends who thought my 80s mountain bike was super cool back in the day and all the dutch Omafeits and cargo bikes they had were ugly and dumb. Now riding your kids around on a bakfiet is the height of cool in my home town and mountain bikes are out. Go figure.
The other thing you might want to consider with discs is whether they're hydraulic or cable actuated. I'm not sure what the difference to the user is, but I know they come in both types. The bike thing? It's a sink hole.
Interesting, I take about as much interest in random strangers as lamp posts so although I've done a lot of walking round town lately I have no idea what bikes people are riding. Much like anything else you can't buy what you want only what they sell which gives people little choice but to appear somewhat cool (they may have last year's xxxx if they didn't break it...)
Hydraulic vs cable I had the same thinking as disc vs rim - only the cheapest have cable therefore hydraulic must be better. That said I've never ridden anything with hydraulic and the cable/discs I tried seemed more than adequate in a dry car park.
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My bike comes from the time when rim brakes and cables were common. Can't say that I've ever had an issue with stopping. Being able to easily remove the front wheel in 20 seconds is a nice bonus.
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Posting this to get feedback but I think I now know enough to work out what I should get. For those who've not read my rambling
Usage: All year round daily commute of ~12 miles of badly maintained canal path and ~3 miles of road. No significant hills.
Brakes - yes, I need some. Doesn't really matter what they are as no extreme use
Wheels - bigger is faster, this is a good thing
Tyres - fatter is better off road, thinner better on road. More important to have grip all the way so looking fairly fat (2.35"?) Summer and winter sets would be good. Tubeless is more puncture resistant
Gears - don't need low gears as no climbing but will probably land up with them anyway. Any 2xX or 3xX setup should have what I need
Suspension - rear not required but shouldn't be a problem as no climbing. Lockout for the front would be good for the road bit
Handlebars - the weirder looking the better so more positions available. Will have to be added as bendy bars are only standard on road focused bikes
Frame - downhill frames are too heavy. Old steel is also heavy and is more likely to have rust issues, so best stick to alu/alloy frames
Mudguards - 'old person style' mudguards are available separately but need forks with eyelets and space above the tyre. Matching rear mudguards won't work with suspension
Sounds like I'm describing a new 'gravel' bike or a used XC hardtail?
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Hydraulic disc brakes give you better power modulation than the cable ones.
Posting this to get feedback but I think I now know enough to work out what I should get. For those who've not read my rambling
Usage: All year round daily commute of ~12 miles of badly maintained canal path and ~3 miles of road. No significant hills.
Get yourself a hybrid bike.
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Regarding suspension, the larger pneumatic tires are going to go a long way towards softening your ride.
I've never had a modern suspension bike so I don't really know how they ride. I did once have an old schwinn with a "springer" front end years ago. That thing was torture on hills. Every time you'd get out of the saddle to climb you could see (and hear in the donkey-like squeak) 1/2 your energy going into flexing the spring rather than forward progress.
I do currently have a brooks "flyer" saddle on my commuter, which is a sprung design. I have no plans to remove it because it's perfectly molded to my *ss, though its hard to identify exactly what the springs are doing for me. I notice it a bit on big potholes, but I guess I'd have to hit the same pothole at the same speed with and without to get real data. Suspend the rider rather than the wheel is I guess the theory.
I'm also somewhat intrigued by some of the tech that's been rolled out for Paris-Roubaix in the last couple of years. They've made several frames with solid elastomeric chunks in them that are supposed to flex and absorb impact, though not nearly to the extend that a full hydraulic/sprung suspension would. I'm not sure you can buy any of this stuff as a consumer, except perhaps for this:
ab_channel=CyclocrossMagazine
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Regarding suspension, the larger pneumatic tires are going to go a long way towards softening your ride.
I've never had a modern suspension bike so I don't really know how they ride. I did once have an old schwinn with a "springer" front end and a Bendix 2speed kickback shifter years ago. That thing was torture on hills. Every time you get out of the saddle to climb you could see 1/2 your energy going into flexing the spring rather than forward progress.
I do currently have a brooks "flyer" seat on my commuter, which is a sprung seat and I *love* it. Suspend the rider rather than the wheel is I guess the theory. I'm also somewhat intrigued by some of the tech that's been rolled out for Paris-Roubaix in the last couple of years. They've made several frames with solid elastomeric chunks in them that are supposed to flex and absorb impact, though not nearly to the extend that a full hydraulic/sprung suspension would. I'm not sure you can buy any of this stuff as a consumer, except perhaps for this:
ab_channel=CyclocrossMagazine
Old Klein bikes used to have the elastomer chunk suspension for the rear triangle on seat stays, IIRC. I second going for a fat 32mm or so for commuting. I have some bulletproof Schwalbe Marathons that are total beaters. Heavier to spin up but less to worry about. For the off-road/dirt/path section, maybe something with a bit more aggressive tread, but you may be able to get away with some narrow 29'er MTB cross country style treads or something that wouldn't be horrible on pavement.
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As far as gearing goes, I was under the impression that triple chainrings were going out of style in favor of compact doubles, which makes a certain amount of sense.
Something like 34/50 12-30 is a pretty standard compact isn't it? If the off road portion is particularly rough even down to something like 30/46 11-34?
Sheldon's gear calculator is your friend here:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
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I have a newer MTB with 1x11, and it's great. If you can go for a single front ring, it's one less mechanical piece to worry about, and the shifting is good and gives you a good range.
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Sheldon's gear calculator is your friend here:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
Thanks for this but sadly it's way above me as I can't read numbers and imagine how stiff it will feel - I'd need to ride while knowing what I'm riding first.
For simple comparison small number at the back big at the front is faster/less hill friendly? Plan is to go fast regardless of bumps and mud, any time spent commuting is time wasted in my book.
As far as gearing goes, I was under the impression that triple chainrings were going out of style in favor of compact doubles, which makes a certain amount of sense.
Something like 34/50 12-30 is a pretty standard compact isn't it? If the off road portion is particularly rough even down to something like 30/46 11-34?
I have a newer MTB with 1x11, and it's great. If you can go for a single front ring, it's one less mechanical piece to worry about, and the shifting is good and gives you a good range.
1xX and 2xX are common options on new bikes but I'm still struggling to see past the value of a used model - what's the point of paying a premium for the priveledge of ruining a perfect paint job, risking DOA parts, and having to check/tweak everything after a week's use when you can buy a well loved bike that's been run in/tested and often upgraded when something went wrong? Aside from the convenience of being able to chose from a selection to find the most comfortable and a choice of colours. And the warranty...
Regarding suspension, the larger pneumatic tires are going to go a long way towards softening your ride.
I've never had a modern suspension bike so I don't really know how they ride.
...
I do currently have a brooks "flyer" saddle on my commuter, which is a sprung design. I have no plans to remove it because it's perfectly molded to my *ss, though its hard to identify exactly what the springs are doing for me. I notice it a bit on big potholes, but I guess I'd have to hit the same pothole at the same speed with and without to get real data. Suspend the rider rather than the wheel is I guess the theory.
Exactly - there's no way to know without trying everything and that's expensive. In this scenario ideally I'd test a full suspension enduro, a hardtail XC, a commuter style hybrid with mudguards and a cyclocross bike, not to mention adding a suspension seat post and a big saddle with springs where it might help.
Get yourself a hybrid bike.
I like problems with an answer, this has two perfectly viable ones. I'd jump on the right used hybrid with dynamo hub and mudguards but then so would everyone else in this situation. Should have bought before it got sunny but didn't know I needed to :))
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Well, I'm currently commissioning a "forever" bike from some frame builders down the street. I went into it trying to save money on some options, but I regretted every cost saving compromise I made as soon as I made it, and was thankfully able to reverse them all before they'd gotten started. The end result of that is I spent more than I intended, but I have no regrets in my choices, even if some of them are a bit odd for purists and snobs.
http://www.northercycles.com/klickitat-pass/
Wasting money sucks, both by under-buying and regretting not getting what you really wanted, and by over-buying and getting "too much bike". Nobody wants to be that dude with the fancy bike who gets dropped on the first hill. But, you go into a new endeavor blind, with neither the information nor experience to make perfect decisions.
Is there a way you can rent or borrow a bike and try your commute a few times? Short of that maybe look for a minimum viable used ride with the idea that you'll get your "dream" bike down the line when you've learned what you like a bit more? At that point maybe the minimally viable one becomes your winter/beater/not worried about locking it up in front of the pub bike.
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That looks great Bill and I agree, if you know what you want never compromise. Sounds like you'll have something unique in the end too which is always a bonus! Looking forward to pics when it's done.
After my post yesterday about trying everything that's what I decided I had to do. Found a used bike shop and took a few bikes round the carpark including a classic 80's commuter, a more modern commuter and a hardtail mountain bike. Takeaway - drop handlebars are very sensitive(?) and combined with thin wheels are scary and do nothing to handle even the small pothole which was the roughest terrain available. As the salesman put it "I don't think they're the right choice for someone with your ... lack of ... technical experience". Or in normal speak "that's not a newbie bike" See why I'm not in sales? :))
They are now building up a nice looking GT hardtail which has eyelets on the fork for proper mudguards which I'm going to take out on the route today or tomorrow. V brakes, small (26") wheels, didn't check but doubt the fork has lockout either. So it ticks none of the original boxes but it's cheap and will give me a reference point. I have a trial at the job next week so really running out of time if I hate it. Don't want to think about that option!
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I like problems with an answer, this has two perfectly viable ones. I'd jump on the right used hybrid with dynamo hub and mudguards but then so would everyone else in this situation.
I wouldn't use a dynamo hub :p it slows you down and rechargeable lights are good enough anyway.
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I like problems with an answer, this has two perfectly viable ones. I'd jump on the right used hybrid with dynamo hub and mudguards but then so would everyone else in this situation.
I wouldn't use a dynamo hub :p it slows you down and rechargeable lights are good enough anyway.
I'm sure they are more than adequate, the problem is I'd forget to charge them or put them back on the bike after charging when leaving home in the middle of the day. I know my stupidity will cost me money, time and effort but I'd rather that than trying to get home in the pitch black without falling into deep water while holding my phone up as a torch :-[
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I like problems with an answer, this has two perfectly viable ones. I'd jump on the right used hybrid with dynamo hub and mudguards but then so would everyone else in this situation.
I wouldn't use a dynamo hub :p it slows you down and rechargeable lights are good enough anyway.
I'm sure they are more than adequate, the problem is I'd forget to charge them or put them back on the bike after charging when leaving home in the middle of the day. I know my stupidity will cost me money, time and effort but I'd rather that than trying to get home in the pitch black without falling into deep water while holding my phone up as a torch :-[
England = dangerous
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I'm sure they are more than adequate, the problem is I'd forget to charge them or put them back on the bike after charging when leaving home in the middle of the day. I know my stupidity will cost me money, time and effort but I'd rather that than trying to get home in the pitch black without falling into deep water while holding my phone up as a torch :-[
Well that's exactly it. Nothing like trying to make a left turn ( I guess for you it would be right) on a major road at night and realizing your tail light bttery has died and you're standing in traffic 1/2 invisible. I actually have both a dyno fender mount tail light and a little usb seat post mounted one for redundancy. I also have a rechargeable headlamp but I rarely bring it with me. For some reason I'm more nervous about the tail light. I guess I figure I can avoid anything I can see in front of me (whether that's true or not is another matter), it's getting rammed from behind that scares me.
The rechargeable LEDs are probably brighter, though its hard to say since of course they measure them in 2 different units. Dyno lights are usually listed in Lux whereas rechargeables are listed in Lumens. Rechargeables also have the advantage of being moveable. You can mount one on your head for example, unlike a dyno light. But the bottom line is you can always use both if you have the dyno for baseline reliability. That's how I think about it anyway.
With the gear calculator, the only number I pay attention to is "gear inches". 1 revolution of the pedals will move you X gear inches forward. If you think of an old penny farthing, the gear inches for a particular gear combination are equivalent to riding a penny farthing with that size front wheel. A very low gear is going to be in the 25-30 inch range, a high gear is going to be 110-120ish. I suppose better riders look for gear ratios in the middle that they're comfortable at at their favored cadence, but I only look at the high and the low really. I know I need about 35 gear inches to get up the biggest hill on my commute, and about 110 to not spin out going down it.
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Well that's exactly it. Nothing like trying to make a left turn ( I guess for you it would be right) on a major road at night and realizing your tail light bttery has died and you're standing in traffic 1/2 invisible.
True, that wouldn't be fun. I won't be on any roads without street lighting though so this isn't my main worry. I will be miles out of town on an unlit bumpy path next to deep water.
England = dangerous
Not sure going swimming fully clothed in the dark is life threatening-dangerous but it's certainly not a good idea. Now if there were gators or piranha in there...
The rechargeable LEDs are probably brighter, though its hard to say since of course they measure them in 2 different units. Dyno lights are usually listed in Lux whereas rechargeables are listed in Lumens.
I guess they run on Li-ion batteries like everything else and wouldn't much like being charged and used at the same time? 6v dynamo to 5v 'USB charger' sounds like the obvious answer if they are brighter. Another example of 'try and see'. Thankfully the trial is not shifts so no darkness involved yet.
With the gear calculator, the only number I pay attention to is "gear inches". 1 revolution of the pedals will move you X gear inches forward. ... A very low gear is going to be in the 25-30 inch range, a high gear is going to be 110-120ish.
I see. Assuming my bike is running the standard gears I have a range of 20.3 to 103.1 'gear inches', sounds like I need an upgrade already as I'm looking for speed on the flat!
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Just hopped in the shower and realized I mis-spoke above. Gear inches doesn't move you forward by the diameter of the wheel, but the circumference, diameter * pi.
50 Gear inches = 1 pedal revolution of a penny farthing with a 50" wheel = 157" of forward movement. You can use the sheldon calculator to figure out MPH at a particular RPM as well. It sounds like your gearing is fairly normal for an MTB. The "high" numbers I listed are more for road bikes.
Interesting vid. The upshot, pro riders are using lower gears at higher cadence. "Spin it to win it" as they say.
Yes, falling in the water would certainly complicate your commute. Are you mostly going to be riding mostly at night? Never mind, you answered above. This journey sounds more and more arduous.
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Today I rented the candidate cheap mtb and test rode the route but didn't buy it. I did learn:
The path is both smoother and more bumpy than I imagined and there's another fun feature - turn towards the water and go downhill then turn away from the water while ducking so you don't knock yourself out on a bridge. Oh, and there's no way to know if anyone's coming the other way or if there's a homeless guy sleeping under there (there was in one of them!) There are at about 10 bridges like this. Luckily there are road-crossing alternatives so they don't kill the possibility of passing when it floods.
My 'style' favours being seated, the combination of a hardtail and pretty solid seat was far from comfortable. I also fear for my mechanical watch which I hadn't considered taking off.
I only used the top 3 gears out of 24, which seems silly.
Single position grips are not going to work, bar ends sound good
It took too long (1.5 hours to get there)
On the plus side I rode there, stopped for less than 10 minutes, then rode back and I'm not in any significant discomfort. Hopefully I can say the same in the morning :))
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Is a route on a road significantly longer or more dangerous?
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It's 2 miles shorter along a main road with heavy traffic, probably more dangerous and definitely more boring especially as headphones are frowned on on the road. If I'm this slow on the flat (a quick look just revealed today's route only varies by about 30 feet :))) I dread to think what I'd do about hills on the road.
If I'm not dead in the morning I'll resume my search for a 29er which should help with the bumps, preferably with road bike gearing to increase my speed. If I am dead I'll be looking for a different job!
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Regarding headphones, I just got a pair of "bone conducting" headphones, which don't cover your ears. Jury is still out. not so comfortable, but you definitely still have situational awareness to traffic and other goings on. That said, I mostly only listen to podcasts not music. I'm not sure how they'd do for music.
As far as speed on road vs trail, I take it the road isn't as flat (in terms of elevation) as the trail eh? The "suspension loss" from the trail's bumpiness will definitely slow you down compared to tarmac, but if there is a lot more elevation change that might be negated. It's starting to sound like you were right in looking for a full suspension 29er all along.
Check it out. Going to paint on Monday:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BlbjERyBkn4/?hl=en
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Last I checked bone conduction headphones didn't sound great but that was probably 5 years ago - they still aren't comfy? I wonder if my PFR-V1 (https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PFRV1-Headphones-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0017IJALY) would stay on (no chance :)))
The road goes down, up, down, up and the lowest point seems to be about 230 feet below the highest and the first and biggest hill looks to be a 3 mile climb getting gradually steeper leaving home but only 1 mile heading home at the end of the day. Not sure how that rates to a biker but to someone who doesn't do cardio it doesn't sound fun!
Day two after the ride and apart from knowing I have thighs the only noticeable feeling is that my bum is bruised. According to Sheldon Brown's page on saddles you're supposed to start with short trips to train your bum which I didn't, I also tired at the end and was probably too seated rather than having half my weight on the pedals which wouldn't have helped...
So do I really need suspension? I saw many other riders, front suspension was rare and there was no rear in sight. Lots of skinny tyres. Even if a more expensive suspension fork stopped my watch jumping all over the place it's not going to help the rear, so don't see the point in it for this use-case.
This leaves a used full suspension with small wheels, questionable mud guards and and tolerating a backpack, or accepting that the gravel bike was designed with exactly what I want in mind and buying one. Isn't this what I said last week?! I've learned so much yet nothing has changed, unless accepting this is going to cost at least twice as much as I hoped counts.
Edit: Realised as soon as I pressed shutdown I never commented on your custom - looks interesting! I see bag mounts everywhere which make sense, great (ab)use of the V brake mounts too. What's the crossbeam where the handlebar should be for?
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Well the current wisdom seems to be gravel bike with big tires and low pressure, like 25 psi low:
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/07/19/how-wide-a-tire-should-i-ride/
This crowd sure does use the world "supple" a lot. I haven't tried too much of this on gravel myself, but I feel like a pair of switchback hill's are in my future with the new bike.
The crossbeam? Oh! That's the decaleur for the handlebar bag. The bag hangs from the decaleur at the top and sits on the little front rack on the bottom. There's a pocket in the bag that the top loop of the lower rack slides into to hold it side to side. The upshot is that the bag is supported by the stem from the top and the rack from the bottom, rather than hanging from the handlebars.
This whole front bag thing is new to me. I typically carry a single rear pannier everywhere, but apparently rear bags are SO UNCOOL now. Still, I added a rear rack in case I want to carry my existing panniers. Most of the time I intend to just ride it with the handlebar bag, but I will also be doing some light touring and I like to go camping, so that's when the racks come into play. These guys braise up the racks right on the frame so it easier for them to make them up before paint, so I just bit the bullet and got the racks now. Both the front low-riders and the rear rack come off with a few hex screws.
As for the v-brakes, yeah this frame uses cantilever brakes. I've had them on like... 4 different bikes and it's what I'm most comfortable with so I just went with it. If there were a canti vs disc option I might have chosen disc, but there wasn't so I didn't have to make that decision.
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To keep this thread updated I landed up with a Kona Rove AL which is pretty much a gravel bike. After a test ride I drove to work for two days to let my bum recover and bought a wider (though no more padded) saddle then managed three days in a row cycling. Today my legs hurt, my back hurts and I'm tired but generally it's gone well. Except for the day it rained - the skinny stock tires didn't like it and mudguards are still on the shopping list. Riding through the soggy overhanging green stuff (skinny bullrushes?) the morning after wasn't fun either!
Not sure if it's the time, the fact I've already cycled there or just the direction I'm going but there seems to be a lot more wind when I'm heading home - it takes 50% longer despite being a net loss in height :confused:
Having tried to get past people with wide rear panniers and being unconfident getting through gates at speed with just me on the bike I've gone off that idea so the handlebar bag sounds like a great idea. Any updates on your new bike billm?
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Put these on my bike last month. My first proper pair of wheels and tires. HED Belgium wheelset with White Industries T11 hubs and 25 mm Continental go fast tires.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
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@suicidal_orange-
I lost track of this thread a bit but checked in again this morning because I do in fact have an update.
First off, congratulations on your purchase. I just looked the model up online. That's a good looking bike. Did you get the black or white/green one? That certainly seems to tick all of the boxes you had. Your primary use case is so specific that it kind of fell in the cracks between 2-3 industry categories. XC? Cyclocross? Gravel? Personally I think you made the right choice with a gravel bike.
I wouldn't exactly call 700cx35 skinny, but perhaps you can fit some bigger tires? I was just poking around online and saw a picture of a Rove AL with 45mm knobby-ish tires on it. It's super cool that the bike can take tires that big! The whole "gravel tire" market seems to have exploded such that I can't keep up. The primary design goal seems to be something like, a smoother strip down the middle for pavement riding, but just enough knobs around the sides to get purchase in light mud and various sizes of gravel. Designs to accomplish these goals are all over the map so it's kind of fun looking at them all, though impossible to tell which work best. Perhaps this sort of tire would suit your primary trail a bit better?
As for my bike, I just took delivery of it yesterday afternoon. I was pretty nervous spending that much on something "bespoke" or semi-bespoke anyway, but the first ride confirmed that we got the sizing exactly right. I just took it out again this morning and couldn't be happier, though I am going to make 2 changes- the seatpost is just an old velo orange extra-setback post I had sitting around. I'm going to swap that for a nitto post with more normal setback. I suspected I'd want to do that but I held off until I could actually ride the bike and confirm. The other change is that I have a pair of time clipless pedals that I'm going to use on this bike most of the time. I was trying to resist the clipless, but it just doesn't make any sense. The shiny MKS pedals with the silky japanese bearings will likely move to my commuter, though when I go camping with this bike I'll likely swap them back.
There's a gallery of finished photos of the bike here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmZl6GRj1qC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
another gallery:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmaI8cVjexg/?taken-by=northercycles
Just about exactly 1 year until Paris-Brest-Paris 2019. I better get training!
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That was good timing, the green looks great for hiding in the woods though probably not with those tyres :)) Paris to Brest and back is a bit of a trek but would make good use of all those bag mounts, good luck with the training!
I got the black Rove AL and tyre clearance was a consideration, 35s may not be skinny to a road biker but the only bikes I've owned are mountain bikes and they're 50+. Doesn't help that they're practically slick too. The problem with tyres is they have to share the space with the mudguards, the only combination I've read of as working are 700x40 WTB nano tyres (which seem to be recently discontinued) with PDW full metal fenders (which are not readily available in the UK) I thought I'd have a month or so to research before it got wet but it rained a lot yesterday so I had to drive today. Now debating whether to buy mudguards so I can measure the available space (though I still won't be able to go anywhere safely) or get some tyres so I can get somewhere dirty then find/modify some mudguards to fit around them. But as you say there are so many tyres it's hard to know where to start especially when size varies with rim width and manufacturers lie, and not consistently at that.
Also considering getting some slightly narrower handlebars as, surprisingly, I spend most of my time on the drops and none on the hoods which just feel weird. Not sure I'm doing it right but it looks like my thumbs are an extension my arm with my fingers sticking out sideways which is an ergo nightmare. Might help if I settled on a saddle position so I could properly adjust the bars first though...
... My first proper pair of wheels and tires ...
They probably cost more than my bike :)) Do they ride as good as they look?
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I really like those neutral colors for some reason. It's like the colors say "this bike can go anywhere".
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Just a piece of friendly advice about the fenders/mudguards- They're a ***** to install. It's worth paying the guy at the shop you buy them from to do it. There are a lot of tricks to getting them straight so that they don't rub.
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Really? I thought the people complaining in the reviews were all incompetent and as usual 95% of buyers didn't have problems so didn't write anything. I'll be lucky to find the ones I want at all let alone in a local shop :(
Am I crazy for considering cutting a wideguard around restrictive parts (seatstays/forks)? An adapted wider guard would allow more clearance and as they're supposed to stay put a bit of sugru to hide the possibly imperfect cuts and prevent them rubbing the frame should work perfectly...
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I thought the people complaining in the reviews were all incompetent and as usual 95% of buyers didn't have problems so didn't write anything.
Correct. Though messing with the glorious feat of German engineering that is SKS will make you swear more than usual.
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So more "95% of people suffered in silence but got the job done" - fair enough :))
Turns out there's a pretty big range of tyres and mudguards available in a 'local' bike shop in the town nearest to work so, weather permitting, I will be calling in there tomorrow.
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wew, didn't know the existence of this thread :cool:
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So more "95% of people suffered in silence but got the job done" - fair enough :))
Turns out there's a pretty big range of tyres and mudguards available in a 'local' bike shop in the town nearest to work so, weather permitting, I will be calling in there tomorrow.
You could always buy online and have the shop install them for you if your shop doesn't have what you want.
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You could always buy online and have the shop install them for you if your shop doesn't have what you want.
True but depending on the shop they might not like installing parts they didn't sell you.
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Regarding the mudguards- some brands are obviously easier than others to install, but a lot of them require you to drill a hole for the crown or the stays, and you'd better get that in the right place on your first shot cuz there's no un-drilling it.
Another thing that can happen if installed incorrectly is that the metal ends up under tension near the fasteners and it will crack over time.
Plastic ones are a bit more forgiving but they don't work as well and aren't as durable imho. They tend not to provide as much coverage and don't mount as solidly.
The other thing that I like is a flexible mudflap attached to the bottom of the fender. This may not be as practical offroad as it could get hung up on stuff, but riding on tarmac it keeps the road spray coming off the bottom of your tire onto your shoes. I also have a mudflap on my rear wheel, but that's not for me its for anybody behind me.
It rains about 9mo a year where I live, so it pays to be serious about rain gear. Another thing I'm a fan of is instead of a rain jacket I primarily use a rain cape when commuting.
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wew, didn't know the existence of this thread :cool:
I saw some of the bike related posts on your instagram. Where'd you go to get those carbon wheels produced? Sounds like a cool project
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You could always buy online and have the shop install them for you if your shop doesn't have what you want.
I could, but I want ones that fit with the biggest clearance possible so by far the best option is having a range available in a shop. It's not rained yet so plan's looking good...
Regarding the mudguards- some brands are obviously easier than others to install, but a lot of them require you to drill a hole for the crown or the stays, and you'd better get that in the right place on your first shot cuz there's no un-drilling it.
Another thing that can happen if installed incorrectly is that the metal ends up under tension near the fasteners and it will crack over time.
Plastic ones are a bit more forgiving but they don't work as well and aren't as durable imho. They tend not to provide as much coverage and don't mount as solidly.
The other thing that I like is a flexible mudflap attached to the bottom of the fender. This may not be as practical offroad as it could get hung up on stuff, but riding on tarmac it keeps the road spray coming off the bottom of your tire onto your shoes. I also have a mudflap on my rear wheel, but that's not for me its for anybody behind me.
It rains about 9mo a year where I live, so it pays to be serious about rain gear. Another thing I'm a fan of is instead of a rain jacket I primarily use a rain cape when commuting.
Thankfully I'm saved from drilling as there are already holes for mudguards and front/rear racks should I ever want them. Most of the metal guards look shiny which is unfortunate, hopefully I'm wrong. There's something reassuring about metal though as with the pedals I seem to be going for looks over functionality :-[
That's a lot of rain! I first saw a cape (online) today, looks weird and not sure where the front light goes but surely cooler than wearing a jacket and smaller to stuff in a bag so a tempting idea.
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What u guyz buy for Wind Noise..
earplug doesn't work, still noisy because the wind hit the plug..
Hoodie works, but it's too hot..
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Earphones that are flat in your ear work nicely, like my old Tzar 90 which I use with Comply foam tips. Note - most of my riding is deliberately not on the road to allow for this, as a responsible adult I cannot recommend them for in town use though I don't take them out...
(https://audio-head.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/IMG_3087.jpg)
I went to the bike shop and was disappointed - it's an online shop with basically a collection desk so couldn't see lots of mudguards. The guy selling them struggled to get past sheeple mentality ("we sell most of these so they must be best") but when I refused the standard shiny SKS ones I was supposed to want he got out a tape measure and actually looked at the bike and I came away with some SKS Blumels 700x53 in matt black which are as wide as my stays could accomodate.
After waiting for them to be delivered I spent two hours in the garden getting very annoyed and came away with just the fork mount attached - the bolt wasn't long enough to mount on the front or back so I had to play with polymorph and make spacers to mount it in the middle. Another hour at midnight and I had the front supports on and started looking at the back only to discover the bolts wouldn't screw in so I went to bed. After a trip out to buy a "tap and die set" it was only another 1.5 hours before I got the back one mounted then another fun half hour trying to dremmel off the support ends without melting the guards.
Overall I think billm was right - next time I'd rather pay someone $100 than go through that faff, still not sure they're level!
Currently they look stupid as I can get any finger in between the current tyres and the mudguards, but that bodes well for fitting fatter tyres :thumb:
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If you plan to do any useful semi-off-road riding on them you will want at least 2cm of room on top of the tyre. Anything more fitting is just Americans trying to fit a Randonneur fender as tightly on a tire as possible.
If anything gets in between you destroy the fender.
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Put these on my bike last month. My first proper pair of wheels and tires. HED Belgium wheelset with White Industries T11 hubs and 25 mm Continental go fast tires.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
:cool: :cool: :cool:
GP 4000s are sweet, using 28s right now.
Might switch to some skin walls sometime just for the classic look tho :p
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@suicdal_orange
Congratulations on getting your mudguards installed. @JaccoW is right, the more space between the tire and guard the better. You can fit bigger tires, it helps keep debris from getting wedged between the tire and fender, and most importantly not everything is going to stay straight and true when you've ridden the bike all winter. There's nothing quite like hitting a pothole then trying to diagnose a faint rubbing noise for the rest of your ride.
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Put these on my bike last month. My first proper pair of wheels and tires. HED Belgium wheelset with White Industries T11 hubs and 25 mm Continental go fast tires.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
:cool: :cool: :cool:
GP 4000s are sweet, using 28s right now.
Might switch to some skin walls sometime just for the classic look tho :p
What's funny is that these rims are wider than most so my 25mm tires look like 28mm tires when compared my friends bike. I've taken this setup off road on hard packed gravel trails and even rode though lots of glass on city sidewalks and I've had good luck so far with these tires. I was also considering the GP 4 Seasons and Gravel Kings for extra puncture resistance.
I think the S Works Turbo Cotton might be a sweet tire for that classic look.
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I just got a second set of wheels (HED Jet 6's) but this time I picked them up used as they are not cheap. I wanted to see if having an aero advantage would be noticeable. Unfortunately I will be waiting a while to put them through their paces due to an injury :'(
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I think the S Works Turbo Cotton might be a sweet tire for that classic look.
Those look good, the only other ones I could find were the Vittoria Corsa G+ but I hear those don't last too long.
I just got a second set of wheels (HED Jet 6's) but this time I picked them up used as they are not cheap. I wanted to see if having an aero advantage would be noticeable. Unfortunately I will be waiting a while to put them through their paces due to an injury :'(
I noticed a difference when I use my Mavic Pro Carbons over my DT Swiss 1800s, I was getting around quicker but it could of just been because they make the cool wooshing sound so I'd go faster :p
Those are much deeper than my wheels so I'm sure you will feel a difference in speed, I was definitely able to feel the effects sidewinds have when you use deeper wheels though.
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Finally stopped raining so I could wash my bike :cool:
These Fall/Winter commutes get so muddy :confused:
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/279778126513438720/508771430968852520/DSC08448.jpg)
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/279778126513438720/508771445510504468/DSC08449.jpg)
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/279778126513438720/508771717305466900/DSC08451.jpg)
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/279778126513438720/508771455538954251/DSC08450.jpg)
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Looks aggressive with the seat angle and slammed stem. Not much riding left for me though with the weather getting colder.
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Yeah my route goes along an ocean inlet which gets very windy so I just got used to riding lower and lower, then once I'm in the city I feel safer when big cars pass me.
Ah yeah when it's cold and raining it can be challenging :'(
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At the risk of being blackballed in this thread, does anybody own an ebike? It seems like a good economical, environmentally friendly way to make short commutes without reaching the destination all sweaty.
I’ve been toying with the idea of getting one but balance the practicality, with the initial cost, risk of theft, encumbrance of owning one more thing, etcetera. Any thoughts?
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At the risk of being blackballed in this thread, does anybody own an ebike? It seems like a good economical, environmentally friendly way to make short commutes without reaching the destination all sweaty.
I’ve been toying with the idea of getting one but balance the practicality, with the initial cost, risk of theft, encumbrance of owning one more thing, etcetera. Any thoughts?
Honestly if you do some serious commuting on a consistent basis this might be a good option plus you can still pedal I believe when you feel like. Risk of theft is always an issue with any bike. If you didn't have an ebike would you drive to work? How far is your commute?
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At the risk of being blackballed in this thread, does anybody own an ebike? It seems like a good economical, environmentally friendly way to make short commutes without reaching the destination all sweaty.
I’ve been toying with the idea of getting one but balance the practicality, with the initial cost, risk of theft, encumbrance of owning one more thing, etcetera. Any thoughts?
Honestly if you do some serious commuting on a consistent basis this might be a good option plus you can still pedal I believe when you feel like. Risk of theft is always an issue with any bike. If you didn't have an ebike would you drive to work? How far is your commute?
Too dangerous.. we prefer kurplop alive.
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New frame day :D Can't wait to get this built up.
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New bike day! Not going to let winter stop me also I don't have brakes hooked up :))
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Anyone here do any indoor training with training software like Zwift?
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Anyone here do any indoor training with training software like Zwift?
(Attachment Link)
is this actually better ?
Once you change the bike seat to a more comfortable wider seat for training, isn't the whole body alignment different anyway ?
What advantage does mounting to one of these racks have ?
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What I have pictured is a bike attached to a direct drive smart trainer which replaces the rear wheel of your bike. It is just like riding a bike outdoors except without the cold. There are many types of trainers. Wheel on and direct drive are the two types of smart trainers. A smart trainer such as this can dynamically provide resistance based on a virtual riding experience from training software such as Zwift.
More info: https://tacx.com/product/neo-smart/
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What I have pictured is a bike attached to a direct drive smart trainer which replaces the rear wheel of your bike. It is just like riding a bike outdoors except without the cold. There are many types of trainers. Wheel on and direct drive are the two types of smart trainers. A smart trainer such as this can dynamically provide resistance based on a virtual riding experience from training software such as Zwift.
More info: https://tacx.com/product/neo-smart/
These use magnetic eddie resistance, so couldn't you wire up an arduino + stepper/servo to the resistance change cable on a regular exercise bike, and get the same thing ?
The cable just brings the magnets closer or further away from the ferrous metal disk, there's not alot of tech to this.
But i guess the general arduino crowd prolly wear dad-bods and don't bother with xercise ?
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What I have pictured is a bike attached to a direct drive smart trainer which replaces the rear wheel of your bike. It is just like riding a bike outdoors except without the cold. There are many types of trainers. Wheel on and direct drive are the two types of smart trainers. A smart trainer such as this can dynamically provide resistance based on a virtual riding experience from training software such as Zwift.
More info: https://tacx.com/product/neo-smart/
These use magnetic eddie resistance, so couldn't you wire up an arduino + stepper/servo to the resistance change cable on a regular exercise bike, and get the same thing ?
The cable just brings the magnets closer or further away from the ferrous metal disk, there's not alot of tech to this.
But i guess the general arduino crowd prolly wear dad-bods and don't bother with xercise ?
I mean sure if you want to go through the trouble of engineering your own smart trainer. :thumb: There is a lot of competition in this industry so new features and improvements are constantly making their way to the consumer all to improve the experience of cycling indoors which can be quiet boring. The full value comes with the hardware capability in conjunction with the training software used. This fusion helps produce a realistic experience (dynamic hillclimb resistance based on a courses hill gradients and a riders weight, simulate vibrations from riding over bumps, etc) and provides you with data to aid in training (cadence, heart rate, power, dynamic pedal stoke analysis, etc). With the training software you can just ride, race others, or do more targeting training. If you wanted to pedal at a certain wattage for x amount of time this unit provides that accuracy to let you know.
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I mean sure if you want to go through the trouble of engineering your own smart trainer. :thumb: There is a lot of competition in this industry so new features and improvements are constantly making their way to the consumer all to improve the experience of cycling indoors which can be quiet boring. The full value comes with the hardware capability in conjunction with the training software used. This fusion helps produce a realistic experience (dynamic hillclimb resistance based on a courses hill gradients and a riders weight, simulate vibrations from riding over bumps, etc) and provides you with data to aid in training (cadence, heart rate, power, dynamic pedal stoke analysis, etc). With the training software you can just ride, race others, or do more targeting training. If you wanted to pedal at a certain wattage for x amount of time this unit provides that accuracy to let you know.
Wattage, hrrrm.. You could probably infer the wattage from just the rpm.. because you would know before hand the spontaneous resistance given the distance to the eddie generating magnet..
Then as long as your dynamic rpm resolution is something like 10 degrees apart, you'd get a pretty darn accurate number..
I guess they could hook up a roller to the wheel, but why bother with a moving part when a hall effect sensor is more reliable and doesn't move..
Meh... feels like keeb-gimick.. hahahahaha
I guess we can only be sn0b about it these days because of the arduino, if it weren't for the proliferation of these boards, we'd prolly still be stone age brochure reading dumbsumers.
On second thought, they're probably using the roller.. all the magnets to trigger hall effect would cost more than a motor, or a cheap encoder.. prolly led
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Just a few parts. You should be able to make a better one :) Let me know when that is done and we can do a virtual ride.
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Just a few parts. You should be able to make a better one :) Let me know when that is done and we can do a virtual ride.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
why all the thinking.. good product.. everyone buy one.
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That $1k would just be for the trainer, not counting the bike, training mat, fans to keep cool, and a computer to run the app. As far as smart trainers the wheel on models are about half the price but these have some trade-offs such as frequent calibration and tire wear. They can also be had for less when they go for a lot less second hand during the summer time. A setup is definitely feasible on a budget. Also there are other makes and models with different designs. The Neo is definitely on the upper end of the spectrum as far as price. Zwift is just one of the different available apps and has a huge following. If you didn't know, keyboards are actually a much cheaper hobby than cycling (cycling can inconspicuously start out cheap but you can go down the dark rabbit hole spending thousands on a race bike and all of the kit to go along with it). Plus if you later decent you need more than one bike it will really hurt the wallet. If you ever attend a bike race or big group ride you will no doubt see lots of high end bikes costing no less than $5k a pop. Heck a pair of carbon fiber wheels can be up to $2-3k on their own. I know several people in real life who use it extensively during the winter. I don't have a trainer yet but was just wondering if anyone here was into this stuff.
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What I have pictured is a bike attached to a direct drive smart trainer which replaces the rear wheel of your bike. It is just like riding a bike outdoors except without the cold. There are many types of trainers. Wheel on and direct drive are the two types of smart trainers. A smart trainer such as this can dynamically provide resistance based on a virtual riding experience from training software such as Zwift.
More info: https://tacx.com/product/neo-smart/
These use magnetic eddie resistance, so couldn't you wire up an arduino + stepper/servo to the resistance change cable on a regular exercise bike, and get the same thing ?
The cable just brings the magnets closer or further away from the ferrous metal disk, there's not alot of tech to this.
But i guess the general arduino crowd prolly wear dad-bods and don't bother with xercise ?
The regular exercise bikes have mutant geometries and most of them put you at terrible positions that aren't really realistic. People ride these trainers because they want to train on the bike they ride/race/commute on. When you change your position so much with an exercise bike, you start working different muscle groups and the athletic gain doesn't translate as well when you get back on your real bike.
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Just a few parts. You should be able to make a better one :) Let me know when that is done and we can do a virtual ride.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Nooo. You should have gotten these.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0910/6368/products/KICKR-Climb-in-Action-2.jpg?v=1530287563)
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Oh the Wahoo Kickr Climb with the indoor grade simulator. :thumb:
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What would you guys/gals consider a good first road bike? I've been looking at fixies etc but I don't want to be "that hipster guy" lol ;)
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I would recommend a Specialized Allez. That is what got me started. You can even pick up a used one for less. Tomasso has some good bikes if you are handy enough to put one together. Also why not both? :thumb: I have an Allez and an Aventon Cordoba which I can set as a fixed gear or as a single speed. I guess it all just depends on the riding you want to do.
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a22070949/specialized-allez-road-bike-review/
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I would recommend a Specialized Allez. That is what got me started. You can even pick up a used one for less. Tomasso has some good bikes if you are handy enough to put one together. Also why not both? :thumb: I have an Allez and an Aventon Cordoba which I can set as a fixed gear or as a single speed. I guess it all just depends on the riding you want to do.
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a22070949/specialized-allez-road-bike-review/
Looks really cool! When I've done some research by myself the brand Fuji kept popping up, is that a reliable brand or do they just have good marketing? ;)
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I recently completed my first Century which has been a goal of mine for a couple years now. It was an awesome experience!
Leading up to the century I was slacking in my training rides and after a few cramps on ~50 miles rides I wasn't sure if I could finish all 100 miles. At some point I just started telling myself I was going to finish despite having no idea if I was going to or not. I dialed in my nutrition & supplements - Rapid Rehydr8 (salt/electrolyte), Endurance360 (Caffeine + STUFF) & Sports Legs (reduces lactic acid production). I highly recommend Rapid Rehydr8, the other stuff could just be an expensive caffeine pill or placebo but I have no regrets. I tried to stick to real food over tons of gels - uncrustables, cookies, trail mix & fruit was awesome bike fuel. My bottles had 25oz of water & 25oz of gatorade, I had zero hydration issues.
Having my first century be a fully supported ride was amazing - the route was well marked with spraypaint on the road at every turn, there were marked vehicles that we spotted every few miles in case of an emergency, bike failure or simply if you had a question. There were 4 rest stops every 19-26 miles, arriving to one felt like nutting and really helped break up the ride. The route was hillier than I hoped but completely manageable til the third leg - it was 18 miles of straight rolling hills which was a real *****. Unfortunately that leg of the ride was the only time I started getting buzzed by trucks but thankfully I didn't get coal rolled. For the first 50 some miles I was terrified of climbing out of the saddle, because that's exactly how my cramps appeared on my training rides months earlier. I really had no choice during the hills and I was shocked to find that my legs had tons of strength left and climbing out of the saddle was the way to go.
We finished with a respectable 15.5mph pace and I did not hold my buddy back at all. He peeled off a few times during the ride but I don't think he ever learned how to gear efficiently so I was always able to catch up. I did have a few near misses with chipmunks & squirrels trying to kamikaze my front wheel, also my buddy spooked a deer which decided to sprint across the road approximately 6 feet behind me. Otherwise, it was a calm ride through scenic, rural Michigan surrounding by tons of other cyclists helping push you to the finish line. I highly recommend the Apple Cider Century if you're anywhere near Lake Michigan.
(https://i.imgur.com/4tZk0Dk.jpg)
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I would recommend a Specialized Allez. That is what got me started. You can even pick up a used one for less. Tomasso has some good bikes if you are handy enough to put one together. Also why not both? :thumb: I have an Allez and an Aventon Cordoba which I can set as a fixed gear or as a single speed. I guess it all just depends on the riding you want to do.
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a22070949/specialized-allez-road-bike-review/
Looks really cool! When I've done some research by myself the brand Fuji kept popping up, is that a reliable brand or do they just have good marketing? ;)
Buying a bike is a lot like buying a computer -- the brand doesn't really matter at an entry level budget. You should instead aim for a bike that's the right size and will fit you well and is built for the purposes you want to use it for. A lot of people will consider gravel bikes for their first bikes since it has most of the speed of a road bike but with the capabilities for off road riding. You should consider an aluminum bike with shimano tiagra or sora if you're buying new. Brand isn't important again, but some of the common picks are Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, Fuji.
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I recently completed my first Century which has been a goal of mine for a couple years now. It was an awesome experience!
Leading up to the century I was slacking in my training rides and after a few cramps on ~50 miles rides I wasn't sure if I could finish all 100 miles. At some point I just started telling myself I was going to finish despite having no idea if I was going to or not. I dialed in my nutrition & supplements - Rapid Rehydr8 (salt/electrolyte), Endurance360 (Caffeine + STUFF) & Sports Legs (reduces lactic acid production). I highly recommend Rapid Rehydr8, the other stuff could just be an expensive caffeine pill or placebo but I have no regrets. I tried to stick to real food over tons of gels - uncrustables, cookies, trail mix & fruit was awesome bike fuel. My bottles had 25oz of water & 25oz of gatorade, I had zero hydration issues.
Having my first century be a fully supported ride was amazing - the route was well marked with spraypaint on the road at every turn, there were marked vehicles that we spotted every few miles in case of an emergency, bike failure or simply if you had a question. There were 4 rest stops every 19-26 miles, arriving to one felt like nutting and really helped break up the ride. The route was hillier than I hoped but completely manageable til the third leg - it was 18 miles of straight rolling hills which was a real *****. Unfortunately that leg of the ride was the only time I started getting buzzed by trucks but thankfully I didn't get coal rolled. For the first 50 some miles I was terrified of climbing out of the saddle, because that's exactly how my cramps appeared on my training rides months earlier. I really had no choice during the hills and I was shocked to find that my legs had tons of strength left and climbing out of the saddle was the way to go.
We finished with a respectable 15.5mph pace and I did not hold my buddy back at all. He peeled off a few times during the ride but I don't think he ever learned how to gear efficiently so I was always able to catch up. I did have a few near misses with chipmunks & squirrels trying to kamikaze my front wheel, also my buddy spooked a deer which decided to sprint across the road approximately 6 feet behind me. Otherwise, it was a calm ride through scenic, rural Michigan surrounding by tons of other cyclists helping push you to the finish line. I highly recommend the Apple Cider Century if you're anywhere near Lake Michigan.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/4tZk0Dk.jpg)
Very nice. Looks like a fun ride. I haven't done a century yet, just lots of 50 mile rides as well as a hilly hundred spread over two days. This winter I'll try and get my fitness up and then do a century next year.
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I would recommend a Specialized Allez. That is what got me started. You can even pick up a used one for less. Tomasso has some good bikes if you are handy enough to put one together. Also why not both? :thumb: I have an Allez and an Aventon Cordoba which I can set as a fixed gear or as a single speed. I guess it all just depends on the riding you want to do.
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a22070949/specialized-allez-road-bike-review/
Looks really cool! When I've done some research by myself the brand Fuji kept popping up, is that a reliable brand or do they just have good marketing? ;)
Buying a bike is a lot like buying a computer -- the brand doesn't really matter at an entry level budget. You should instead aim for a bike that's the right size and will fit you well and is built for the purposes you want to use it for. A lot of people will consider gravel bikes for their first bikes since it has most of the speed of a road bike but with the capabilities for off road riding. You should consider an aluminum bike with shimano tiagra or sora if you're buying new. Brand isn't important again, but some of the common picks are Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, Fuji.
Tyvm :thumb:
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What would you guys/gals consider a good first road bike? I've been looking at fixies etc but I don't want to be "that hipster guy" lol ;)
If you have a budget, I would recommend to go with smaller brand like Fuji, an entry level carbon frame and 10/11 speed groupset. Better value for money.
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What would you guys/gals consider a good first road bike? I've been looking at fixies etc but I don't want to be "that hipster guy" lol ;)
If you have a budget, I would recommend to go with smaller brand like Fuji, an entry level carbon frame and 10/11 speed groupset. Better value for money.
I have a Trek hybrid. How OG am I?
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What would you guys/gals consider a good first road bike? I've been looking at fixies etc but I don't want to be "that hipster guy" lol ;)
If you have a budget, I would recommend to go with smaller brand like Fuji, an entry level carbon frame and 10/11 speed groupset. Better value for money.
Soz for the noob questions, but do you mean that I buy a Fuji bike, and then replace the frame and the groupset? :-[
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What would you guys/gals consider a good first road bike? I've been looking at fixies etc but I don't want to be "that hipster guy" lol ;)
If you have a budget, I would recommend to go with smaller brand like Fuji, an entry level carbon frame and 10/11 speed groupset. Better value for money.
Soz for the noob questions, but do you mean that I buy a Fuji bike, and then replace the frame and the groupset? :-[
I wouldn't think so, find whatever bike name you like but try and find one that comes with an entry level carbon frame and has a 10/11 speed groupset. On a budget aluminum usually is the least expensive but entry level carbon frames are worth looking into though. For Shimano groupsets Sora/Tiagra/105 offer the best bang for your buck as well.
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What would you guys/gals consider a good first road bike? I've been looking at fixies etc but I don't want to be "that hipster guy" lol ;)
If you have a budget, I would recommend to go with smaller brand like Fuji, an entry level carbon frame and 10/11 speed groupset. Better value for money.
Soz for the noob questions, but do you mean that I buy a Fuji bike, and then replace the frame and the groupset? :-[
I wouldn't think so, find whatever bike name you like but try and find one that comes with an entry level carbon frame and has a 10/11 speed groupset. On a budget aluminum usually is the least expensive but entry level carbon frames are worth looking into though. For Shimano groupsets Sora/Tiagra/105 offer the best bang for your buck as well.
Ah I see, I prob got too excited since the site im looking at has 70% off for carbon frames ;)
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On a budget aluminum usually is the least expensive but entry level carbon frames are worth looking into though.
Isn't carbon great until you crash, then you often write it off? Doesn't sound like something you should buy the budget model of.
Edit: On second thoughts if you're going to bin it anyway why spend more than the least possible...
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On a budget aluminum usually is the least expensive but entry level carbon frames are worth looking into though.
Isn't carbon great until you crash, then you often write it off? Doesn't sound like something you should buy the budget model of.
Edit: On second thoughts if you're going to bin it anyway why spend more than the least possible...
Carbon is prone to damage from crashes, but carbon isn't that weak. On paper, it's stronger than any alloy material, but it's inelasticity makes it brittle and it can be prone to minor damage that can be repaired. You'll need a big wreck to break a frame in any area that will total the frame beyond repair, where the equivalent crash on an aluminum or steel bike would've caused big damage as well. Alloy will dent and can't really be repaired but the upside is you can still ride it as long as the frame isn't mutantly deformed and the frame is still straight.
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"Entry level" is somewhat subjective to what you're looking to get out of your bike.
A bike with a Sora drivetrain and alloy body will run you $500 or less if you can get a deal on Bike Nashbar or Bike Island. However, step up to the Shimano 105 and you're going to be paying upwards of $1k even with a decent deal.
Everyone here is also talking about entry level carbon, but you don't need to go that far. Especially if you're dishing out an extra $500 just to get some cheap carbon versus quality alloy + carbon fork. If we're talking weight savings, then you just paid $500 just to save 500 grams of weight on your bike since most decent alloy is already less than 9 kilograms. Carbon does absorb more shock which makes it easier on your hands and bum bum when going over bumps, but it's still not that big a deal. Remember that almost all bikes that you will look at nowadays will come stock with a carbon fork already. The extra dosh you're dishing out is just to get a carbon triangle.
If we're talking about things that are worth the money, then drivetrain is the most important. Sora and Tiagra are fine for entry level, but only the 105 is inter-compatible with the higher end Ultegra and Dura Ace parts for upgrade paths. It'll cost you extra to get the 105 versus the other options, but the drivetrain is the most important part so it's definitely worth considering. Though, to be quite honest, you're not going to buy Dura Ace parts and the Ultegra and 105 are so close in performance that, unless you want electronic shifting, you don't need anything higher.
The next thing I would consider is the type of brakes you want. Disc brakes will give you the best performance in unfavorable conditions like rain, snow, dirt, etc. and regular rim brakes will eventually wear out the wheels which are expensive to replace; whereas disc brakes clamp on cheap discs which can be replaced easily. There are also hydraulic disc brakes. Those who have used them will swear by them, and I think they're right. With drop bars, it's quite awkward to brake and puts some strain on your fingers if your hands are placed on the hoods, which is the most common riding position. Hydraulic brakes will just make it easier on you. Braking performance is the real takeaway from here. Not so much the wear on the wheels since you won't being doing it any time soon. The wheels might even die in a crash before the rims wear.
After those two things, I would then consider going carbon. However, at that point, a lot of bikes that come with a 105 or higher drivetrain and hydraulic braking will already have carbon frames.
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This is good advice. I would actually caution a little bit against disc brakes first. They are harder to maintain than road brakes. Road brakes are pretty easy to line up and very easy to change out pads, but bleeding a brakeset is a nightmare and expensive for someone without tools. On the lower end, I would actually advise against it because you'll be paying either for labor or for a bleed kit when your disc brakes need to be refreshed beyond new rotors/pads. They are good if you live in eternal rainy conditions, but in sunny California I don't benefit from disc brakes all too often. To bring it back into perspective, you should definitely look to spend under $1000, and you can certainly find deals for $500 like mentioned above.
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This is good advice. I would actually caution a little bit against disc brakes first. They are harder to maintain than road brakes. Road brakes are pretty easy to line up and very easy to change out pads, but bleeding a brakeset is a nightmare and expensive for someone without tools. On the lower end, I would actually advise against it because you'll be paying either for labor or for a bleed kit when your disc brakes need to be refreshed beyond new rotors/pads. They are good if you live in eternal rainy conditions, but in sunny California I don't benefit from disc brakes all too often. To bring it back into perspective, you should definitely look to spend under $1000, and you can certainly find deals for $500 like mentioned above.
Definitely a good thing to consider.
Maintenance is the necessary evil of all bikes.
One more good piece of advice is to do your research on how to maintain your bike. If you buy your bike at a local bike store (LBS), then they will be open to help you out and give you free basic service for 3 months to a year depending on where you go. Even though I did mention a couple of places to get nice clearance price bikes, your LBS is going to be your greatest tool for getting help. Not just for maintenance, which is very important, but for something even more important: bike fit. Road bikes are going to put some strain in some weird places and put you in weird positions, so getting the best fit possible is very important.
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I recently completed my first Century which has been a goal of mine for a couple years now. It was an awesome experience!
Leading up to the century I was slacking in my training rides and after a few cramps on ~50 miles rides I wasn't sure if I could finish all 100 miles. At some point I just started telling myself I was going to finish despite having no idea if I was going to or not. I dialed in my nutrition & supplements - Rapid Rehydr8 (salt/electrolyte), Endurance360 (Caffeine + STUFF) & Sports Legs (reduces lactic acid production). I highly recommend Rapid Rehydr8, the other stuff could just be an expensive caffeine pill or placebo but I have no regrets. I tried to stick to real food over tons of gels - uncrustables, cookies, trail mix & fruit was awesome bike fuel. My bottles had 25oz of water & 25oz of gatorade, I had zero hydration issues.
Having my first century be a fully supported ride was amazing - the route was well marked with spraypaint on the road at every turn, there were marked vehicles that we spotted every few miles in case of an emergency, bike failure or simply if you had a question. There were 4 rest stops every 19-26 miles, arriving to one felt like nutting and really helped break up the ride. The route was hillier than I hoped but completely manageable til the third leg - it was 18 miles of straight rolling hills which was a real *****. Unfortunately that leg of the ride was the only time I started getting buzzed by trucks but thankfully I didn't get coal rolled. For the first 50 some miles I was terrified of climbing out of the saddle, because that's exactly how my cramps appeared on my training rides months earlier. I really had no choice during the hills and I was shocked to find that my legs had tons of strength left and climbing out of the saddle was the way to go.
We finished with a respectable 15.5mph pace and I did not hold my buddy back at all. He peeled off a few times during the ride but I don't think he ever learned how to gear efficiently so I was always able to catch up. I did have a few near misses with chipmunks & squirrels trying to kamikaze my front wheel, also my buddy spooked a deer which decided to sprint across the road approximately 6 feet behind me. Otherwise, it was a calm ride through scenic, rural Michigan surrounding by tons of other cyclists helping push you to the finish line. I highly recommend the Apple Cider Century if you're anywhere near Lake Michigan.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/4tZk0Dk.jpg)
Very nice. Looks like a fun ride. I haven't done a century yet, just lots of 50 mile rides as well as a hilly hundred spread over two days. This winter I'll try and get my fitness up and then do a century next year.
Thanks! In my super duper humble opinion if you can do 50 miles, you can do 100. My longest training ride was about 60 miles and I really didn't have an issue with 100. Good luck!
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Signature, you can also shop for used Italian bikes like Colnago, Pinarello, etc.
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This is good advice. I would actually caution a little bit against disc brakes first. They are harder to maintain than road brakes. Road brakes are pretty easy to line up and very easy to change out pads, but bleeding a brakeset is a nightmare and expensive for someone without tools. On the lower end, I would actually advise against it because you'll be paying either for labor or for a bleed kit when your disc brakes need to be refreshed beyond new rotors/pads.
You can always use mechanical disc brakes instead of hydraulic so you don't have to deal with that.
I don't think I've seen any lower end disc bikes with hydraulic actually.
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This is good advice. I would actually caution a little bit against disc brakes first. They are harder to maintain than road brakes. Road brakes are pretty easy to line up and very easy to change out pads, but bleeding a brakeset is a nightmare and expensive for someone without tools. On the lower end, I would actually advise against it because you'll be paying either for labor or for a bleed kit when your disc brakes need to be refreshed beyond new rotors/pads.
You can always use mechanical disc brakes instead of hydraulic so you don't have to deal with that.
I don't think I've seen any lower end disc bikes with hydraulic actually.
There are very few entry level bikes with hydraulic disc brakes. Any that do will make sacrifices on other parts of the bike in order to have that, which I would not recommend. My comment was mostly about what priorities one should have when going up in price.
However, low end hydraulic disc brake bikes do exist in some small capacity. Just go to a site like performance bike, set the filter for hydraulic discs and sort price low to high. Again, I wouldn't recommend the bikes that do show up, but it was amusing to see that you could get a road bike with hydro discs for $1k.
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My wife rides a bike with hydraulic discs (Shimano M395) for half of $1K.
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The Ebay 15% off coupon today works for bike stuff, go grab new tires and waste your money on nice stuff :)
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My problem is that I mostly use trams, buses and long-distance trains because I tend to travel through Germany to visit friends or attend conferences. A bike would probably make me stop taking the bus (or the tram), but I still need to transport it somehow. So I might invest into a folding bike in 2019, there are some nice ones. It doesn't make sense before the upcoming winter ends though.
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My problem is that I mostly use trams, buses and long-distance trains because I tend to travel through Germany to visit friends or attend conferences. A bike would probably make me stop taking the bus (or the tram), but I still need to transport it somehow. So I might invest into a folding bike in 2019, there are some nice ones. It doesn't make sense before the upcoming winter ends though.
yeah folding bikes work nice for public transit, you should consider buying used though since it's just a commuter bike at heart
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I don't trust used bikes. Nobody sells a perfectly working bike for no good reason.
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I don't trust used bikes. Nobody sells a perfectly working bike for no good reason.
You're wild, people often sell good working bikes after upgrading or if they stop using them.
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I don't trust used bikes. Nobody sells a perfectly working bike for no good reason.
You're wild, people often sell good working bikes after upgrading or if they stop using them.
Had an 85' Schwinn World Sport shipped ($125--ebay lol) 500+ miles and rode that thing for 5+ years. IIRC I spent less than $150 on replacements parts throughout the years. Fit was wonky though.
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I don't trust used bikes. Nobody sells a perfectly working bike for no good reason.
:)) Unless the bike has obviously been neglected or the price is too good to be true. Where I live there are bikes that come up for sale on a regular basis as people moved away. I ended up buying my first bike new mostly since I couldn't find a decent price locally since they were priced too high when I was looking. It was fortunate I bought my first road bike new since the shop was really helpful in helping me pick out a bike that fit me and I've used it as a reference for later bikes.
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I bought my current bike used from a racer. The machine is serving me for its 7th year.
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After having tried a few, I'm undecided between a Tern Verge and a Brompton. And unlike keyboards, they are sufficiently expensive to not just get both.
Kill me.
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After having tried a few, I'm undecided between a Tern Verge and a Brompton. And unlike keyboards, they are sufficiently expensive to not just get both.
Kill me.
No, get a Brompton :thumb:
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Give me good reasons!
The Tern has larger wheels (= better driving on unfriendly streets), comes with Big Apple tires, has a belt drive (= almost no maintenance) and is slightly cheaper.
But it's heavier and taking it in a tram could be a mess with its larger folding size.
Hmm.
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Give me good reasons!
The Tern has larger wheels (= better driving on unfriendly streets), comes with Big Apple tires, has a belt drive (= almost no maintenance) and is slightly cheaper.
But it's heavier and taking it in a tram could be a mess with its larger folding size.
Hmm.
Oh my, I had to look up this Tern with belt drive.. I've never come across a belt driven bike before. I was sadly disappointed when I looked it up :(
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Disappointed?
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I rode a cheap belt driven bike once and wasn't disappointed at all.
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Give me good reasons!
The Tern has larger wheels (= better driving on unfriendly streets), comes with Big Apple tires, has a belt drive (= almost no maintenance) and is slightly cheaper.
But it's heavier and taking it in a tram could be a mess with its larger folding size.
Hmm.
Ride them both if possible. If that's not doable then consider my sales pitch. Pot holes and rough roads will suck on either bike but the quick turning of either bike should minimize this issue. The Brompton as you mention has smaller wheels but the frame is steel and has a shock-absorbing suspension block. Also you can change the saddle and grips to isolate vibrations even further. The Brompton is more expensive but has the superior folding design, is smaller and weighs less so you can take it anywhere. Stow it in a custom backpack, closet, small car, tram, shopping cart, etc. As far as drivetrain either choice is fine and both types have their advantages and disadvantages.
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Oh, so there IS a belt driven model. My apologies. I'm not sure how well those would do with all the potholes around my area. Sounds interesting anyway.
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It's the Verge S8i, to be precise. 8-gear Shimano.
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Tried Brompton.
Bought the Verge. :)
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Tried Brompton.
Bought the Verge. :)
Nice :)
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Oh ****, i totally forgot this thread existed.
So i bought a bike before Christmas, it's the Calibre Triple B ffull suspension MTB. Been out a couple of times with my friend rocking a Canyon Spectral and another with the Orange Alpine 6
(https://i.imgur.com/gUcKa1A.jpg)
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I would likely die or at least break some bones if I tried riding one of those bikes down a trail. :))
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I would likely die or at least break some bones if I tried riding one of those bikes down a trail. :))
Yeah we've not done anything major yet, but hopefully in the summer we can go to somewhere like Cannock Chase or mid wales and get on some proper trails.
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Oh ****, i totally forgot this thread existed.
So i bought a bike before Christmas, it's the Calibre Triple B ffull suspension MTB. Been out a couple of times with my friend rocking a Canyon Spectral and another with the Orange Alpine 6
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/gUcKa1A.jpg)
Lookin good :cool:
Haven't gone MTB before, might go this Summer with byker.
That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
(https://i.imgur.com/jZp30fA.jpg)
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Lookin good :cool:
Haven't gone MTB before, might go this Summer with byker.
That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/jZp30fA.jpg)
[/center]
Dis' foto, look @ dat composition.. !!
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it's complicated.. this isn't my bike ..but it is mine to ride for the foreseeable future.. I may buy it ..I may not... but for now I'm riding this bike..
I guess it is technically complicated .. I have access to various things bike related and it is loaned on a fairly opened basis to me.
[attachimg=1]
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it's complicated.. this isn't my bike ..but it is mine to ride for the foreseeable future.. I may buy it ..I may not... but for now I'm riding this bike..
I guess it is technically complicated .. I have access to various things bike related and it is loaned on a fairly opened basis to me.
(Attachment Link)
This reads like a relationship status :))
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Technically, it is.
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That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
Dang that is some bad luck. Reminds of one of my friends who got a flat like a block from his house. I've only had one flat so far with the original tires my bike came with. With my GP4000's I've literally ridden through glass a few times and even hard packed gravel. Those GP5000's are so expensive right now though. Being new there is a low supply and a high demand.
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That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
Dang that is some bad luck. Reminds of one of my friends who got a flat like a block from his house. I've only had one flat so far with the original tires my bike came with. With my GP4000's I've literally ridden through glass a few times and even hard packed gravel. Those GP5000's are so expensive right now though. Being new there is a low supply and a high demand.
Looks like they're around $60 a pop online. Pretty expensive indeed. I have this problem where I buy a bunch of tires when they're on sale and I end up having this backlog of tires to go through before I can buy new ones, crap!
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Looks like they're around $60 a pop online. Pretty expensive indeed. I have this problem where I buy a bunch of tires when they're on sale and I end up having this backlog of tires to go through before I can buy new ones, crap!
$60 is still pricey but not too bad as I had seen them for $70-80 a pop when I looked last. When I think about it now I've had car tires that were cheaper. I don't stock up on extra tires but all three of my bikes have a nice set of tires and all are interchangeable if needed. But buying extra tires isn't a bad idea it just sucks when something better comes along which usually isn't too often. I do stock up on extra tubes though. I suppose you could offload your unused stock on eBay if you have a shed load of tires :))
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Oh ****, i totally forgot this thread existed.
So i bought a bike before Christmas, it's the Calibre Triple B ffull suspension MTB. Been out a couple of times with my friend rocking a Canyon Spectral and another with the Orange Alpine 6
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/gUcKa1A.jpg)
Lookin good :cool:
Haven't gone MTB before, might go this Summer with byker.
That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/jZp30fA.jpg)
Yeah my friend has just gone tubeless on his Specialized but then proceeded to get a sidewall puncture and had to get a whole new tyre anyway.
Are your pedals rose gold or like a pastel colour?
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Lookin good :cool:
Haven't gone MTB before, might go this Summer with byker.
That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/jZp30fA.jpg)
[/center]
Dis' foto, look @ dat composition.. !!
:cool: :cool: :cool:
That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
Dang that is some bad luck. Reminds of one of my friends who got a flat like a block from his house. I've only had one flat so far with the original tires my bike came with. With my GP4000's I've literally ridden through glass a few times and even hard packed gravel. Those GP5000's are so expensive right now though. Being new there is a low supply and a high demand.
Yeah it's real random, been wet though so everything's stickin to the ground.
Lotta debris on my route since they're building new homes.
Yeah my local shop doesn't even have them in stock yet.
Oh ****, i totally forgot this thread existed.
So i bought a bike before Christmas, it's the Calibre Triple B ffull suspension MTB. Been out a couple of times with my friend rocking a Canyon Spectral and another with the Orange Alpine 6
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/gUcKa1A.jpg)
Lookin good :cool:
Haven't gone MTB before, might go this Summer with byker.
That reminds me I needa switch to tubeless, I've gotten 3 flats in the past 2 months :confused:
Continental's new GP5000 tubeless look very tempting.
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/jZp30fA.jpg)
Yeah my friend has just gone tubeless on his Specialized but then proceeded to get a sidewall puncture and had to get a whole new tyre anyway.
Are your pedals rose gold or like a pastel colour?
Wew, that's less likely to happen on regular road riding at least I'd say :eek:
More of a gum rubber color like on shoes.
They're Cult BMX Dak pedals.
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Wew, that's less likely to happen on regular road riding at least I'd say :eek:
More of a gum rubber color like on shoes.
They're Cult BMX Dak pedals.
Uhhh, yeah I can't remember where he got it, but the roads aren't great, but he's totally destroyed a set of wheels on some potholes in one go about four weeks ago.
Oh damn, those are really cool. That's an odd colour but i really like them.
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I know it's a bad to buy based on looks but the shiny headset cap spacer on my matte black bike bugs me and as it's cheap headset underneath and I will* be riding lots on a dusty path I should upgrade it to a nice sealed one anyway. The near universally loved Chris King nothreadset is available in matte black but it will add ~20mm to my stack and some of that is below the headtube so will affect the angle - doesn't sound ideal. The only other option that looks to come with a matte black top is the FSA Orbit Z which is far less loved and doesn't actually say it's matte...
Of course there's nowhere to go and look at them so does anyone know of any zerostack/semi integrated/44mm ID headsets for a 1 1/8 straight steerer that have matte black top cone spacer things? I'd like to say budget isn't an option but the Chris King at £144 (about $185) is pushing it :))
*I've recovered from my first crash and fractured clavicle having missed the transition from 'summer' to 'winter' weather so have postponed getting back on the bike until it's not wet and/or windy every day.
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Yeah the CK prices are crazy. I would say just take off the cap, sand the paint off, get some spray paint like a matte black or satin black and maybe also spray some matte clear coat for protection. Since your bearings are not sealed you could take them apart, clean, and repack with new grease when needed.
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CK prices are crazy but when you read everywhere of people running the old version with the occasionally dodgy o-ring seal for 15 years without touching them the current/improved version doesn't sound like a bad invesment. If it wasn't so tall I'd have bought one.
I like your thinking with the paint - sometimes the simple ideas are the best! I have a can of black under my bed and pretty sure it's matte even. If spraypaint has a shelf life of 10 years that is...
What happens when a headset wears out, does it just get stiff, crunchy and creaky or is it a potential health hazzard? I ride along a canal with headphones on so it's pretty straight and I'm unlikely to notice noises. I rode the full ~17 miles with my front brake rubbing and wondered why it was hard going, it was only luck that I locked my headphones in at work that day so heard it as soon as I set off for home otherwise who knows how long I would have carried on :-[
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CK prices are crazy but when you read everywhere of people running the old version with the occasionally dodgy o-ring seal for 15 years without touching them the current/improved version doesn't sound like a bad invesment. If it wasn't so tall I'd have bought one.
I like your thinking with the paint - sometimes the simple ideas are the best! I have a can of black under my bed and pretty sure it's matte even. If spraypaint has a shelf life of 10 years that is...
What happens when a headset wears out, does it just get stiff, crunchy and creaky or is it a potential health hazzard? I ride along a canal with headphones on so it's pretty straight and I'm unlikely to notice noises. I rode the full ~17 miles with my front brake rubbing and wondered why it was hard going, it was only luck that I locked my headphones in at work that day so heard it as soon as I set off for home otherwise who knows how long I would have carried on :-[
If your headset is grinding, gritty and mucky, your bearings might not be in the best shape. Check out this video on how to strip your headset, degrease and clean your bearings, re-grease them properly and re-assemble. Regarding old spray paint you could shake it very well and test it on something but it's hard to say how good it still is. At least spray paint is pretty cheap.
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Also it wasn't too long ago that a new bike I soon found out had inferior components and virtually had no grease anywhere including the bearings. I took apart the bearings which I discovered got wet and started to rust :eek: To make due I tore them apart, ran them through a sonic cleaner and applied liberal amounts of grease where needed.
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headsets are an unsexy part but pretty important. used chris king headsets go for around $80. if that's too much too shell out then fsa/cane creek ones are just fine for half the price.
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Also it wasn't too long ago that a new bike I soon found out had inferior components and virtually had no grease anywhere including the bearings. I took apart the bearings which I discovered got wet and started to rust :eek: To make due I tore them apart, ran them through a sonic cleaner and applied liberal amounts of grease where needed.
That's the situation here - the headset in my 'new' bike is only £15 to replace full price (FSA No.10) so it can't be great. I guess the pot of grease would come in handy when fitting a replacement whenever though so so may as well rip it apart and add some. It should be fine at around 500 miles, maybe 50 in moderate rain.
used chris king headsets go for around $80. if that's too much too shell out then fsa/cane creek ones are just fine for half the price.
They do, if I wanted any colour except matte black! The matte one I can only find one place new in the UK for whatever reason, just happens to be on my way to work so no postage to pay, it's the added height not the money that puts me off. Do you know which FSA/Cane Creek ones aren't shiny? All sites just say 'black' and have pics with bright lights which can make anything look quite shiny. Very helpful...
Though I guess I could upgrade and still get out the spraycans :))
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So I'm still looking at headsets and am trying to assess the potential geometry impact of the CK. According to this site (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/chris-king-nothreadset-1-1-8-headset-sotte-voce/rp-prod33817) the lower stack height is 13.7mm so am I right in thinking on this calculator (https://bikegeo.muha.cc/) I could just add 13.7mm to the fork height to make the same difference? That looks like this:
[attach=2]
7.5mm reach is easily fixed with a longer stem and the head angle will still bigger the smaller models of the same bike while the seat angle will be just below the largest, so I guess these are within the manufacturers recommended range. I suspect the answer will be 'some people will notice a huge difference others won't notice anything' but I'll ask anyway - will this make a noticeable difference?
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Headset shopping is on hold while I struggle with gear problems, as usual I've messed with everything without knowing what I'm doing and seems something went wrong. I'd rather work it out than pay someone so I can fix it next time too...
From reading after doing it when you change your cassette or chainrings you're supposed to buy a new chain - I didn't. I replaced my cassette after maybe 100 miles and then got shorter cranks with what looked to be lightly used chainrings after my crash at about 500 miles. Managed another ~100 miles before the chain started to come off the chainrings and after abusing the shifter to get it back on I landed up with a twisted chain.
I've replaced the chain and tested/tweaked both deraileurs and for the first 20 miles it was OK, but today the chain came off again. I still have compatible chainrings on the longer cranks and the nearly new cassette I took off ages ago so I could switch them back in but is that overkill? Is it possible that a chain can damage the chainrings so quickly (100miles) and if so could they have damged the new chain even quicker (25miles)?
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Headset shopping is on hold while I struggle with gear problems, as usual I've messed with everything without knowing what I'm doing and seems something went wrong. I'd rather work it out than pay someone so I can fix it next time too...
From reading after doing it when you change your cassette or chainrings you're supposed to buy a new chain - I didn't. I replaced my cassette after maybe 100 miles and then got shorter cranks with what looked to be lightly used chainrings after my crash at about 500 miles. Managed another ~100 miles before the chain started to come off the chainrings and after abusing the shifter to get it back on I landed up with a twisted chain.
I've replaced the chain and tested/tweaked both deraileurs and for the first 20 miles it was OK, but today the chain came off again. I still have compatible chainrings on the longer cranks and the nearly new cassette I took off ages ago so I could switch them back in but is that overkill? Is it possible that a chain can damage the chainrings so quickly (100miles) and if so could they have damged the new chain even quicker (25miles)?
The chain came off the front or the rear? Under what conditions? Shifting under heavy load? Also you may go through 3-4x chains before you wear through a cassette. It's better to just go with a new chain with a new cassette as a new cassette can wear faster while using a well used or worn chain. Also are you running a different gear ratio now and swapping cassette and chain ring?
Also are you prepared to watch YouTube maintenance videos, service manuals, and buy tools to work on your stuff with the possibility you get stuck in the process? Doing your own maintenance can definitely be rewarding though. You mentioned a crash so things might be out of whack so maybe you need a full tuneup anyhow.
https://road.cc/content/feature/201548-how-stop-your-chain-coming-dropped-chain-can-damage-your-bike-or-even-cause
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Thanks JP, videos generally annoy me with their pacing (take too long to say something obvious then skip past something that's not - especially bad when covered in oil!) but I'm definitely hands on with this. Using old school written guides and pictures so far I've fitted a new cassette and disc brake rotor to new wheels and replaced the handlebars which meant new brake cables and swaped the cranks as well as tweaking the gears after the new cables (new bike) stretched - next up headset and BB, though they need expensive tools given how infrequently I'll use them so I might cheat. Or use a block of wood...
The only problem is getting stuck which is not an option as I use the bike to get to work, hence having to ride on and risk further damage. Having just woken up I have 2 hours to 'fix' it before it's effectively gone 11pm and I can't make noise in the garage.
The new chain is a 114 link as the 'new' cassette doesn't get close to the 32T on the old one, plenty of play left in the rear derailure so this seems a good choice. The cranks are the same model with the same size chainrings as the originals and the teeth looked good so I was expecting this change to go just as smoothly. Where the line between 'moderate' and 'heavy' load is I have no idea but the last time it came off it was on reasonable tarmac having survived heavier load over bumpy mud and gravel. There is one complication in that for whatever reason the 2x bike was sold with a 3x front shifter so after my latest tweaking session I had to double click both ways, which isn't ideal. I'll watch your video then get out and have another go, I guess it's going to say H screw but when last I looked there wasn't 1mm of gap so can't do much with that!
Edit: Tried to move the front derailure down slightly with the cable attached, needless to say that didn't go well. Moved it to do nothing so will be running an 8 speed today. I did switch the cassette back so hopefully 50x32 is low enough for the only real hill I have to deal with, if not I'll be walking for a little bit :))
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After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to :pfixed speed.
I hated adjusting those things.
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After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to :pfixed speed.
I hated adjusting those things.
One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.
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After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to :pfixed speed.
I hated adjusting those things.
One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.
I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits. Quaint yet effective.
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After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to :pfixed speed.
I hated adjusting those things.
One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.
I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits. Quaint yet effective.
Prblem with Mountain bikes , is the mountain isn't included..
Having to go to the mountain is 2 scary.. there are bears.. can you ride a bike faster than a bear ? Perhaps... but what if there are 2 bears..
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After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to :pfixed speed.
I hated adjusting those things.
One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.
I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits. Quaint yet effective.
Prblem with Mountain bikes , is the mountain isn't included..
Having to go to the mountain is 2 scary.. there are bears.. can you ride a bike faster than a bear ? Perhaps... but what if there are 2 bears..
I'm not sure how mountain biking fits into this conversation. Or bears..
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After adjusting a derailleur a few times I converted my bike to :pfixed speed.
I hated adjusting those things.
One more reason why electronic shifting is so popular. Also this is why I ride my single speed throughout the winter as I don't really have to worry about maintenance besides lubing the chain.
I shortened the chain on my 10 speed so that it was fixed to the tenth speed then removed the unnecessary bits. Quaint yet effective.
Prblem with Mountain bikes , is the mountain isn't included..
Having to go to the mountain is 2 scary.. there are bears.. can you ride a bike faster than a bear ? Perhaps... but what if there are 2 bears..
That's why mountain bikers bring bear bells!
So I received a bike that I got from shipping yesterday.......and a good chunk of paint came off of the carbon frame during transit. Very sad. It's a pro tour level frame too.
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If mountains were included they would be bikes with mountains or mountains with bikes depending on the distributor. I can confirm, I outran a bear but there is definitely a scaling problem once more bears are introduced. Odds of survival decrease exponentially with more bears so ymmv.
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So I received a bike that I got from shipping yesterday.......and a good chunk of paint came off of the carbon frame during transit. Very sad. It's a pro tour level frame too.
As my old bike shop used to say... That's what stickers are for lol
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I walk talking about a vintage 10 speed Schwinn tour bike I converted into a single speed. But sure, bears, beets, etc..
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If mountains were included they would be bikes with mountains or mountains with bikes depending on the distributor. I can confirm, I outran a bear but there is definitely a scaling problem once more bears are introduced. Odds of survival decrease exponentially with more bears so ymmv.
Glad you are alrite JP..
When will mountain bikers finally be aware of Bear Danger.
It's simply too dangerous.. Evolution of carnivores clearly favors pack mentality.. That is to say inevitably Bears will form cohorts of their own and Hunt mountain bikers using pincer attacks, much like wolves, and dolphins.
Being cognizant of such immense risk is critical to survival.
The eventual Bear Cohort could spell doom for the mountain biking industry if the issue is not addressed in its infancy..
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Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.
What I would be more afraid of is deer. The sturgeons of the the forest. Vicious beasts indeed.
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Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.
What I would be more afraid of is deer. The sturgeons of the the forest. Vicious beasts indeed.
Yet another iceburg in the sea of rotary exercise.
Deers are basically more nimble cows. Their racing frame also makes their trajectory unpredictable and therefore more dangerous.
A charging bull is large, noisy, and easy to see. Deers are like NINJAS. They are typically endowed with woody camoflauge. Even during high speed maneuvers, their footsteps only produce a dull thud, sound typically unnoticeable in small wind. Bike bearings are louder..
Glad you've brought light to this escalating hazard of the forest.
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Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.
What I would be more afraid of is deer. The sturgeons of the the forest. Vicious beasts indeed.
That is no joke! I've had numerous deer fly out at me on a wooded trail I ride.
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Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...
(https://i.imgur.com/l2duu2G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5t5A3Hm.jpg)
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Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/l2duu2G.jpg)
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/5t5A3Hm.jpg)
What are some of billnye's planned Anti-Bear/ Anti-Deer countermeasures ??
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Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/l2duu2G.jpg)
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/5t5A3Hm.jpg)
What are some of billnye's planned Anti-Bear/ Anti-Deer countermeasures ??
I normally just scream at the top of my lungs for the duration of my ride and so far I haven't had any issues.
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I normally just scream at the top of my lungs for the duration of my ride and so far I haven't had any issues.
Good reference design here..
[attachimg=1]
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Buy a damn bear horn and check it regularly you bunch of loonies.
What I would be more afraid of is deer. The sturgeons of the the forest. Vicious beasts indeed.
That is no joke! I've had numerous deer fly out at me on a wooded trail I ride.
Seems like every car that has been in my somewhat extended family has been craft-fully embossed by those sneaky creatures.
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Seems like every car that has been in my somewhat extended family has been craft-fully embossed by those sneaky creatures.
Same including a couple family members hit by deer while stopped at a stop sign :rolleyes:
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Seems like every car that has been in my somewhat extended family has been craft-fully embossed by those sneaky creatures.
Same including a couple family members hit by deer while stopped at a stop sign :rolleyes:
Smart deer--get em while they're at a red light and zoned out to the mysteries of the universe.
One actually jumped over my older brother while he was riding his motorcycle. Thankfully he had a low profile sport bike.
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One day at work and this thread has been derailed slightly :)) No bears to worry about here thankfully and our deer have always seemed very placid when rarely spotted while walking in the woods. Maybe they just don't like spinny noises?!
Made it to work on my '8 speed' but there's a rubbing noise which seems to be coming from the rear derailure, which has worked perfectly throughout. Maybe it's bent and that's the real cause of the problems. Something to look into tomorrow, not like I had anything better to do on my first Saturday off this month...
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Went for a ride today since it was only -2C outside. Can't wait for better weather to roll around because I haven't ridden nearly enough on this thing.
(https://i.imgur.com/dNvdoWX.jpg)
Also, tubeless is the master race.
EDIT: I was loving switchnollie's bike until I saw that he has flats on there. That bike deserves clipless!
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Went for a ride today since it was only -2C outside. Can't wait for better weather to roll around because I haven't ridden nearly enough on this thing.
Also, tubeless is the master race.
EDIT: I was loving switchnollie's bike until I saw that he has flats on there. That bike deserves clipless!
Abus bros! I ditched the top water bottle cage and front basket in favor of a messenger style bag. Also I normally use Shimano SPD pedals.
Edit: I'm not sold on tubeless. Seems like too much of a hassle but would if I was going off road.
(https://i.redd.it/naau81o7fk421.jpg)
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So while looking at gear-related stuff I inevitably found myself looking at upgrades. Damn, brifters are pricy! Then I see bar end shifters.
Cheap. Friction mode to bypass messing about with indexing. Single movement to make multiple shifts in either direction. Compatible across different sized cassettes so easy to upgrade. Used by people who live in their drops (I don't like riding hoods) What's not to love?
Looking at brifters how does your setup work Frosty? I guess either you don't brake in your drops or you must have really long fingers, at that angle I can't see how the geometry is setup. JPs bars look weird in a good way - the ends of those bars look similar to drops angle wise, but with more reach. Interesting....
Edit: Further reading suggests friction mode is not fun past a 9 speed cassette. Still tempted.
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So while looking at gear-related stuff I inevitably found myself looking at upgrades. Damn, brifters are pricy! Then I see bar end shifters.
Cheap. Friction mode to bypass messing about with indexing. Single movement to make multiple shifts in either direction. Compatible across different sized cassettes so easy to upgrade. Used by people who live in their drops (I don't like riding hoods) What's not to love?
Looking at brifters how does your setup work Frosty? I guess either you don't brake in your drops or you must have really long fingers, at that angle I can't see how the geometry is setup. JPs bars look weird in a good way - the ends of those bars look similar to drops angle wise, but with more reach. Interesting....
Edit: Further reading suggests friction mode is not fun past a 9 speed cassette. Still tempted.
One of my friends has a 9 speed and likes those bar end shifters. I am just the opposite. I hardly use my drops, especially around town. When I got my single speed it had dropped handle bars which I didn't care them since they didn't have hoods although I could have added them. I ended up finding a good deal locally on the bullhorn handle bars and for the way I ride I really like them. I stand up and mash the pedals so this is like having hoods in my case. I'm running a 48x16 and sometimes 48x15 which is a terrible gear ratio for acceleration and hills but standing up I can get more power down and I can haul ass once I get going. The only down side is the braking sucks reaching so far forward. Also since this is an old picture I have since went back to a shorter stem and lowered it quite a bit and also my seat post. Rides so much better once I got my fit dialed in.
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48x16 doesn't sound too bad on the flat (I think I drop to 50x17 to slowly pass dog walkers and accelerate away easily enough) but hills? You're a braver man than I! As with so many things it would be great to try bar end shifters before buying, but that's not going to happen. 1x12 with an e-bike approved cassette and bar end shifters for under £500 is really tempting but thankfully(?) I can't find the shifters to be next day shipped today otherwise I'd probably have pulled the trigger already :-[
I'm still playing with fit, so far dropping from a 175 to 165mm cranks has been a revalation - I first cycled after years of not and had achy legs but after a 3 month break due to injury I've jumped back on the short cranks and felt nothing, the cranks were supposed to force me into lower gears and that worked. At the same time I swapped to narrower bars (44-40cm) and a longer stem and I think (though after the break it's based on a fuzzy memory) the steering is better too so I've got a 130mm stem to try next as it was 90% off. Worth the money just for the black bolts which neither of my other stems have as the large red and white logos will look terrible.
Does the tweaking ever end?
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I wanted to try bullhorns when I was still biking around town, but I was never ambitious enough to relearn the art of handlebar wrapping.
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I find handlebar wrapping is fine until you get to the brifters and the only other problem is the scruffy bar end which you have to sit and look at. Bullhorns conveniently avoid both!
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I find handlebar wrapping is fine until you get to the brifters and the only other problem is the scruffy bar end which you have to sit and look at. Bullhorns conveniently avoid both!
In Mortal Combat situations involving bears, One must consider utilizing a handle bar wrapping material with high enough tensile strength such that it could be removed for utility as a whip or strangling device.
Whip would give you some map control and spacing, whereas when the bear eventually comes @ u, you can quickly side-feint and attack it from behind in strangling mode...
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I find handlebar wrapping is fine until you get to the brifters and the only other problem is the scruffy bar end which you have to sit and look at. Bullhorns conveniently avoid both!
In Mortal Combat situations involving bears, One must consider utilizing a handle bar wrapping material with high enough tensile strength such that it could be removed for utility as a whip or strangling device.
Whip would give you some map control and spacing, whereas when the bear eventually comes @ u, you can quickly side-feint and attack it from behind in strangling mode...
Well with bull horn handlebars I can usually scare them off. They are more afraid of you really so the best strategy is to appear strong.
[attachimg=1]
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Perhaps my bicycle terminology is a bit rusty.. If I do get another bike I'll be sure to get the upwards curvy handlebar things.
10+ years of skateboarding left my wrists in a bad state. Drop bars seem to aggravate whatever hairline fractures I may or may not still have.
Here's the only picture I snapped of my basic townie (2005).
(https://i.imgur.com/OqNr5ZM.jpg)
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About the shifters:
I cannot imagine having to use friction shifters over sti, or double tap if I was SRAM.
Being able to have accurate shifts with a simple click and having that ability at my fingertips is great. The most common riding position for me is on top of the hoods since braking is important, which means I also have the shifters ready for me at any time. If I'm in the drops for a long stretch of uninterrupted road then I shift up to a gear I feel I can do at least 90 cadence on and do an aero tuck.
The other huge benefit is being able to rapidly switch gears accurately. Either a huge 3 gear swing to shift down, either before a stoplight or a hill, or rapid clicks to shift up on a descent.
EDIT: Also, I forgot to mention that if your shifting is off on friction shifters, you will cause premature wear on your drivetrain.
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Thanks for your thoughts Frosty. I don't ride the hoods as no matter what I try they aren't comfortable because all my weight seems to be on the webby bit between thumb and fingers, I'm still tweaking so maybe one day they will work. Probably against all guidance I cruise in the drops with straight arms and can bend them to go more aero, though as I've been avoiding the 4AM commute there's a high risk of dog walkers so I don't. No idea what cadence but higher than it used to be, which is apparently good...
As to rapid shifting that's where bar ends look better but maybe that's because I'm coming from low end STIs with only one up and two down per press? Tiny but steep 'hills' (bridges over the canal) are a regular thing on my commute so unless I'm powering along I've been dropping 50x15T to 34x15T and back which worked nicely (no cross chaining noise) until it started throwing the chain. If I go for a 1x1? setup I'd be looking for 3 or 4 gears up/down for the same effect and having tried it on 1x8 it's workable but not ideal.
More drivetrain wear doesn't sound good and friction over 8 is not recommended, so given up on that idea.
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Higher cadence is good.
When you pedal, your knees take on a certain percent of the force of pedaling and your muscles take the rest. Your knees are going to be the weakest point so if you spin faster, then you reduce the strain on your knees and place that load on your muscles.
Imagine standing up and having your legs locked with your knees back, then try standing with your legs bent. It's going to feel really easy to stand with your legs locked versus with your legs bent because you're placing your weight on your skeletal structure rather than having your muscles lift you up. This is good and all, but once you're on a bike, your baseline power will put your legs under a load equal to 2-4 times your weight, and during a sprint your legs output 6-10 times your body weight. This amount of force is no joke and it's advised to be at 80 cadence while cruising, 90 cadence at threshold, and 100+ during a sprint.
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I rarely shifted gears with my late townie. I quickly learned that it was more efficient for me to power through a small hill then expend energy fighting with friction shifters.
Hence why I eventually shortened the chain to a fixed low gear and stripped off the excess parts that I never used (Gainesville hills are relatively flat anyway).
That and never finding a way to convert the OE three piece crank to something more modern. Having to change out grindy bearings every so often wasn't fun.
(lighting is pretty bad in here but it kinda suits the spare parts/tools shown)
(https://i.imgur.com/2syaStd.jpg)
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After a relatively trouble free week (had to double click front to change) today I have slipping on the big front/small rear gear. This is on the 'old' cassette which has less miles on than the 'new' one. Had a look and all the teeth are shiny on the outer edge so something's not right. Wondering why I bought $10 of reach adjusters rather than a new rear gear setup on Wednesday, especially as the 'shop' is mainly online so not open at weekends.
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Got some bar end shifters designed for a 2/3x10 Shimano MTB setup, will be fitting them tomorrow in friction mode on an 8 speed rear and 11 speed road front derailleur with 9 speed chain on 8 speed cranks. I can't see any possible problems with this setup given my expertise getting the original matched setup to work, none at all :-X
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Just got back into biking this past summer after a few years off. Got a Specialized Stumpjumper and really enjoying full suspension! I missed that feeling of just heading out into the woods and forgetting everything for a while. On the other hand, I really need to find some hobbies that aren't so expensive...
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/l2duu2G.jpg)
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/5t5A3Hm.jpg)
Duuuuuude. I'm a big fan.
My two friends with road bikes took me on a 20 mile road ride in 45mph gusts last weekend. Was not a lot of fun.
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lets keep this thread alive. here's the current state of the roadie.
close to being dialed, but a couple things to do:
- saddle angle needs to be leveled lol and need to finish my bike fit, but the fit is pretty good now
- the manual for speed bartape is pretty rare but kind of worn and doesn't match, i like the 3m godandfamous bartape so that's up next
- fork needs to be cut
- somehow i lost the battery cover on my power meter? need another one but its $15 for a piece of plastic
- i have to mount my replacement carbon cages for the cheaper forte carbon ones i have on the bike right now, although i haven't had complaints so far they don't look as slick as thinner matte cages
[attachimg=1]
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That's one crazy bike with stealth wheels and a colourful frame but somehow it works :thumb: Looks like you have really long fingers!
Realised I haven't taken a picture of my commuter yet, should have done that before putting on a non-matching stem and adding one bar end shifter under scruffy re-used tape, or better yet before scuffing both STIs...
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lets keep this thread alive. here's the current state of the roadie.
close to being dialed, but a couple things to do:
- saddle angle needs to be leveled lol and need to finish my bike fit, but the fit is pretty good now
- the manual for speed bartape is pretty rare but kind of worn and doesn't match, i like the 3m godandfamous bartape so that's up next
- fork needs to be cut
- somehow i lost the battery cover on my power meter? need another one but its $15 for a piece of plastic
- i have to mount my replacement carbon cages for the cheaper forte carbon ones i have on the bike right now, although i haven't had complaints so far they don't look as slick as thinner matte cages
(Attachment Link)
That's a nice touch with the seatpost. How much does it weigh? :thumb:
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I like the clean look of those wheels. I am guessing this build is about 7.1 kg.
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Here's a pic of my commuter, complete with a little canalside mud spray. Just fitted a new headset so the stem can go 10mm lower than before so back to stem swapping for a while to see if I can get rid of the lower back pain that hits at around an hour. Surprisingly the hoods are actually usable for the first time - typical as I also just fitted the second bar end shifter so can't ride on them any sense :))
I thought the nice sunny day would mean a reasonable pic but no, the glorious matte blackness looks shiny. Oh well.
[attachimg=1]
Now to hope I remember not to pull the new shifter all the way otherwise the chain's going to be in my wheel (MTB pull friction shifter on a road derailleur is not a perfect match...)
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Here's a pic of my commuter, complete with a little canalside mud spray. Just fitted a new headset so the stem can go 10mm lower than before so back to stem swapping for a while to see if I can get rid of the lower back pain that hits at around an hour. Surprisingly the hoods are actually usable for the first time - typical as I also just fitted the second bar end shifter so can't ride on them any sense :))
I thought the nice sunny day would mean a reasonable pic but no, the glorious matte blackness looks shiny. Oh well.
(Attachment Link)
Now to hope I remember not to pull the new shifter all the way otherwise the chain's going to be in my wheel (MTB pull friction shifter on a road derailleur is not a perfect match...)
Nice bike. Which headset did you end up with?
That definitely is an aggressive race position but I guess this depends on your riding style. As far as back pain a pro bike fit might be worthwhile. Also this issue is not solely related to bike fit. See this article (https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitness/lower-back-pain-dont-blame-the-bike-32094).
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My primary bike is a CCM, i cannot afford a new one. I try and take good care of it. Brands i do not recommend are: Meerkat or Supercycle. Even though they are cheap, they are also cheaply made. Walmart's products i find are unstable, and loosely attached. If you buy one, its a good idea to tighten, as my wheel fell off when i bought one 2 years ago. :(
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Here's a pic of my commuter, complete with a little canalside mud spray. Just fitted a new headset so the stem can go 10mm lower than before so back to stem swapping for a while to see if I can get rid of the lower back pain that hits at around an hour. Surprisingly the hoods are actually usable for the first time - typical as I also just fitted the second bar end shifter so can't ride on them any sense :))
I thought the nice sunny day would mean a reasonable pic but no, the glorious matte blackness looks shiny. Oh well.
(Attachment Link)
Now to hope I remember not to pull the new shifter all the way otherwise the chain's going to be in my wheel (MTB pull friction shifter on a road derailleur is not a perfect match...)
Nice bike. Which headset did you end up with?
That definitely is an aggressive race position but I guess this depends on your riding style. As far as back pain a pro bike fit might be worthwhile. Also this issue is not solely related to bike fit. See this article (https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitness/lower-back-pain-dont-blame-the-bike-32094).
I got a Hope integral (well, the top and bottom - don't want big white logos on the spacers and I like the Kona cap) Nice smooth bearings and only a 0.5mm shiny ring visible below the headtube so seems good but ask me in a couple of thousand miles.
The lowered position with 130mm stem was too much so had to raise it before coming home. The stem cost £2.50 and a 110mm was only £5 while a bike fit is £150 which buys me a component (still need a nice BB but waiting on results of gear testing to see where my drivetrain is heading, seatpost is basic and marked from lots of adjustment, saddle is OK but don't love it...) so I'm resisting. Also still breaking myself in as your linked article suggests - it may well be me. But knowing lower is worse makes higher worth a try, that or putting the Soma Condor (https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/condor-handlebar) handlebar I barely gave a chance back on. Crazy thought - they are probably small enough to fit below the main bar - going to try that today :))
My primary bike is a CCM, i cannot afford a new one. I try and take good care of it. Brands i do not recommend are: Meerkat or Supercycle. Even though they are cheap, they are also cheaply made. Walmart's products i find are unstable, and loosely attached. If you buy one, its a good idea to tighten, as my wheel fell off when i bought one 2 years ago. :(
When I got my bike the handlebars were only held on by 2 of the 4 bolts so I'd suggest checking, the wheel falling off is a bit extreme though. Hope you weren't riding at the time! :eek:
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Here's a pic of my commuter, complete with a little canalside mud spray. Just fitted a new headset so the stem can go 10mm lower than before so back to stem swapping for a while to see if I can get rid of the lower back pain that hits at around an hour. Surprisingly the hoods are actually usable for the first time - typical as I also just fitted the second bar end shifter so can't ride on them any sense :))
I thought the nice sunny day would mean a reasonable pic but no, the glorious matte blackness looks shiny. Oh well.
(Attachment Link)
Now to hope I remember not to pull the new shifter all the way otherwise the chain's going to be in my wheel (MTB pull friction shifter on a road derailleur is not a perfect match...)
Oh that's a nice bike! :thumb: What tires are those? I have a similar commute bike but I haven't found nice gravel tires around here. Want to get WTB Nanos though.
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Oh that's a nice bike! :thumb: What tires are those? I have a similar commute bike but I haven't found nice gravel tires around here. Want to get WTB Nanos though.
Thanks!
Those tyres are WTB Resolute, was torn between them and the Nanos so went for the bigger option because bigger is supposed to be better for comfort. Good grip offroad in the dry (which is where they're supposed to be) but not great when it's properly wet so I'll be getting something different before next winter.
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My all black hardtail
[attach=1]
My gravel bike. Shameless plug: it's for sale too https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2539167/ (https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2539167/)
[attach=2]
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lets keep this thread alive. here's the current state of the roadie.
close to being dialed, but a couple things to do:
- saddle angle needs to be leveled lol and need to finish my bike fit, but the fit is pretty good now
- the manual for speed bartape is pretty rare but kind of worn and doesn't match, i like the 3m godandfamous bartape so that's up next
- fork needs to be cut
- somehow i lost the battery cover on my power meter? need another one but its $15 for a piece of plastic
- i have to mount my replacement carbon cages for the cheaper forte carbon ones i have on the bike right now, although i haven't had complaints so far they don't look as slick as thinner matte cages
(Attachment Link)
Hmm I've seen that frame before. Nice exclusive paint job!
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Lost control of the bike on a paved path the other day and got into a small crash.
Unrelated, my front wheel is going to be upgraded to a Mavic all road next week.
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My all black hardtail
(Attachment Link)
My gravel bike. Shameless plug: it's for sale too https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2539167/ (https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2539167/)
(Attachment Link)
That gravel bike is nice. I like CX/gravel bikes and should start riding some gravel tracks more. Thanks for inspiring me to get on my bike this weekend and have a nice ride. :)
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My all black hardtail
(Attachment Link)
My gravel bike. Shameless plug: it's for sale too https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2539167/ (https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2539167/)
(Attachment Link)
those bikes look very familiar! ;)
your hardtail is getting mad at you you're not riding it enough :)
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My bike I won't be able to finish up or ride for a few months which is when I should be physically able again.
[attachimg=1]
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My bike I won't be able to finish up or ride for a few months which is when I should be physically able again.
(Attachment Link)
:eek: That gotta hurt looking at that eye-candy everyday.
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:eek: That gotta hurt looking at that eye-candy everyday.
(http://sites.psu.edu/siowfa15/wp-content/uploads/sites/29639/2015/09/old-man-pain.jpg)
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Went to Cannock Chase for the first time last weekend and did a couple of laps of the dog. It was a lot of fun. First time I've had my bike really in it's element and it was amazing. Only fell off once as well :D
On a kind of related note, anybody use Strava to track their rides? Would love to follow a few more people on there. If you want to share your name probably best not to put it here, but PM me and i'll follow you :)
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Went to Cannock Chase for the first time last weekend and did a couple of laps of the dog. It was a lot of fun. First time I've had my bike really in it's element and it was amazing. Only fell off once as well :D
On a kind of related note, anybody use Strava to track their rides? Would love to follow a few more people on there. If you want to share your name probably best not to put it here, but PM me and i'll follow you :)
I use Strava but I don't really use it seriously for training. I just like looking at the numbers. I also follow friends and get ideas for cool places to ride.
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Finally got around to upgrading to XX1 - mainly for the bling, but that large cog sure helps with
being fat climbing. Anyone going to get the axs stuff?
pls ignore dirty frame skin :(
(https://i.imgur.com/yy0lVxP.jpg)
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Finally got around to upgrading to XX1 - mainly for the bling, but that large cog sure helps with being fat climbing. Anyone going to get the axs stuff?
pls ignore dirty frame skin :(
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/yy0lVxP.jpg)
What a beauty. Honestly though a 50-tooth largest cog is on point for a beefy trail bike. Maybe you could run 30t x 11-42t in an area without much steep climbs. Otherwise 32t x 10-50t is necessary for both 13% climb and flat paved road. Good for your knees too.
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Got a wahoo elemnt bolt over the weekend and it's definitely an upgrade from using my Garmin. I thought that upgrading my computer would be a nitpick and I've stuck with my 510 for a while now but the Elemnt Bolt is definitely a lot faster to use than my old Garmin. I saw this meme on instagram that went like "Local wahooligan even bought the $250 fan" and I'm not sure if I'm at that level yet but come talk to me in 6 months :p
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Got a wahoo elemnt bolt over the weekend and it's definitely an upgrade from using my Garmin. I thought that upgrading my computer would be a nitpick and I've stuck with my 510 for a while now but the Elemnt Bolt is definitely a lot faster to use than my old Garmin. I saw this meme on instagram that went like "Local wahooligan even bought the $250 fan" and I'm not sure if I'm at that level yet but come talk to me in 6 months :p
Nice! I love this one. So many different features and always reliable. Did you get the heart rate monitor as well?
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Got a wahoo elemnt bolt over the weekend and it's definitely an upgrade from using my Garmin. I thought that upgrading my computer would be a nitpick and I've stuck with my 510 for a while now but the Elemnt Bolt is definitely a lot faster to use than my old Garmin. I saw this meme on instagram that went like "Local wahooligan even bought the $250 fan" and I'm not sure if I'm at that level yet but come talk to me in 6 months :p
Nice! I love this one. So many different features and always reliable. Did you get the heart rate monitor as well?
Actually, my problem with the garmin wasn't that it wasn't reliable, it was just a lot more difficult to do simple things like upload a ride and update the info pages. I think the one feature missing that would make me happier is a daytime/nighttime auto adjust brightness and background color. The garmin does the background color adjust. I have the garmin run hrm already so I didn't get a new one, I actually don't even use the heart rate monitor, I usually just pace to power. Come to think of it, mostly your heart rate is just a reflection of your 5 minute power average. I think having a 5 min power average reading on your computer would basically replicate the job of heart rate to an extent.
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Actually, my problem with the garmin wasn't that it wasn't reliable, it was just a lot more difficult to do simple things like upload a ride and update the info pages. I think the one feature missing that would make me happier is a daytime/nighttime auto adjust brightness and background color. The garmin does the background color adjust. I have the garmin run hrm already so I didn't get a new one, I actually don't even use the heart rate monitor, I usually just pace to power. Come to think of it, mostly your heart rate is just a reflection of your 5 minute power average. I think having a 5 min power average reading on your computer would basically replicate the job of heart rate to an extent.
I just like having the data. I got my Bolt used as part of a bundle with the sensors and HR monitor but sometimes I ride without it. I definitely think there is room for improvement but it is a great piece of kit. Another bonus my Bolt fully integrates with my Pioneer power meter. I came from a low tech Cateye that was several years old and failed me constantly due to issues with magnets.
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Finally got around to upgrading to XX1 - mainly for the bling, but that large cog sure helps with being fat climbing. Anyone going to get the axs stuff?
pls ignore dirty frame skin :(
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/yy0lVxP.jpg)
What a beauty. Honestly though a 50-tooth largest cog is on point for a beefy trail bike. Maybe you could run 30t x 11-42t in an area without much steep climbs. Otherwise 32t x 10-50t is necessary for both 13% climb and flat paved road. Good for your knees too.
it's amazing. got up a pretty steep climb the other day that i'd walked on my old bike. I didn't think the 50t was that much of an improvement before I got one, but boy was I wrong!
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My 2016 T5G
https://imgur.com/a/9UXd5Fs (https://imgur.com/a/9UXd5Fs)
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My 2016 T5G
https://imgur.com/a/9UXd5Fs (https://imgur.com/a/9UXd5Fs)
Titanium? Looks nice!
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Thanks, definitely not as light as one of those carbon jobs, but it’s a bit more durable... which is what I was after.
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Bringing this thread back in style with a new bike day! This bike is like a rocket ship. Accelerates super quick and I feel a lot more efficient at holding high speeds. I'm pretty out of shape right now but it felt like any effort I put down translated to speed like no effort was wasted. Such a sublime feeling I've not felt before in a bike. Also the steering is way more responsive than I'm used to but not in a bad way. I also rode with SPD clip in pedals for the first time and did not fall over despite a lot of stop and go.
[attachimg=1]
Gold chain because bling.
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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very well sorted bike. you have all the right bits! in other news, i got annoyed with tubeless this week. i took my roadie out on a nice long 70 mile ride and mixed in some rocky fire trail up in marin as well...bike was fine. the next day i was pedaling a mile to my friend's house in the city and flatted on the way there, made a little puddle of sealant on the ground and the hole didn't seal. time for new tires. i got the new tires the other day but i'm still having a hell of a time removing the damn tubeless tire. i can't even get the tire to the middle of the wheel well. my last resort is cutting the tire which i'll probably do if i don't fix it up in another few days. good thing i have a backup wheel on deck, and it's a roval clx40 too. my other tubeless headache was converting my mtb wheel to tubeless, a stan's ztr crest wheel. taped up the rim and loaded in the sealant, pumped the tire up but it lost air in two hours. sad! still need to fix that one too, so the hardtail is out of commission for now. the roadie life has been treating me good though since summer has been around and i've been riding around 100 miles a week, which is usually about as much as i'll do when i'm not training for anything.
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very well sorted bike. you have all the right bits! in other news, i got annoyed with tubeless this week. i took my roadie out on a nice long 70 mile ride and mixed in some rocky fire trail up in marin as well...bike was fine. the next day i was pedaling a mile to my friend's house in the city and flatted on the way there, made a little puddle of sealant on the ground and the hole didn't seal. time for new tires. i got the new tires the other day but i'm still having a hell of a time removing the damn tubeless tire. i can't even get the tire to the middle of the wheel well. my last resort is cutting the tire which i'll probably do if i don't fix it up in another few days. good thing i have a backup wheel on deck, and it's a roval clx40 too. my other tubeless headache was converting my mtb wheel to tubeless, a stan's ztr crest wheel. taped up the rim and loaded in the sealant, pumped the tire up but it lost air in two hours. sad! still need to fix that one too, so the hardtail is out of commission for now. the roadie life has been treating me good though since summer has been around and i've been riding around 100 miles a week, which is usually about as much as i'll do when i'm not training for anything.
I felt like going tubeless was going to be too much of a headache but I most likely would consider that route if I get into riding gravel or other off-road trails. So when you got that flat you had to walk back since you couldn't get the tire off to run with a tube? It sucks having a bike down. I need to do a full tuneup on my old 10 speed and need to upgrade / revise my single speed or sell it and get something else.
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Neat demo of the Brompton folding bike and factory tour. These look fun but they are expensive.
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Bringing this thread back in style with a new bike day! This bike is like a rocket ship. Accelerates super quick and I feel a lot more efficient at holding high speeds. I'm pretty out of shape right now but it felt like any effort I put down translated to speed like no effort was wasted. Such a sublime feeling I've not felt before in a bike. Also the steering is way more responsive than I'm used to but not in a bad way. I also rode with SPD clip in pedals for the first time and did not fall over despite a lot of stop and go.
(Attachment Link)
Gold chain because bling.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
sweet chain 😎
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Gold chain because bling.
sweet chain 😎
:D
[attachimg=1]
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Yah Bikes!
I need to get a new fork for my Butt Ugly Single Speed Bianchi. Any suggestions for cheap Ridgid 26" forks with decent tire clearance for for medium wide bois?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190619/c26e8a95d5c55540473d99d78995174f.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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new bars and grips for the Trance Advanced 2 .. deity highside 760 50mm rise and deity knuckleduster grips
[attachimg=1]
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new bars and grips for the Trance Advanced 2 .. deity highside 760 50mm rise and deity knuckleduster grips
(Attachment Link)
Do any sweet jumps?
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I just got this awesome little air pump. It's only 7 inches long which fits perfectly in my seat bag. My other one was a lot longer and couldn't do both valve type. No need for co2 canisters with this one.
[attachimg=1]
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I just got this awesome little air pump. It's only 7 inches long which fits perfectly in my seat bag. My other one was a lot longer and couldn't do both valve type. No need for co2 canisters with this one.
(Attachment Link)
That looks nice! I still have a Lezyne micro floor pump, which is pretty OK but not as small as this one!
I got my first part for my Surly Big Dummy build:
(https://i.imgur.com/pBTFqDr.jpg)
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That looks nice! I still have a Lezyne micro floor pump, which is pretty OK but not as small as this one!
I got my first part for my Surly Big Dummy build:
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/pBTFqDr.jpg)
Nice. Keyboards + Bike stuff :thumb:
I have a full size floor pump that I normally use and this small pump is one I hope to never use. I did put it through it's paces though. I stopped to help a stranded cyclist and pumped up a large mountain bike tire. Only a few hundred pumps to do the job lol.
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I have a full size floor pump that I normally use and this small pump is one I hope to never use. I did put it through it's paces though. I stopped to help a stranded cyclist and pumped up a large mountain bike tire. Only a few hundred pumps to do the job lol.
Ha, same for me: I think I used it never so far, and have bought it *checkmail* 2012. When I had a flat, I forgot the small pump at home. The full size one I am using was the second cheapest one – once I had a premium SKS steel floor pump, which was expensive and very cool, but it was stolen from the basement :(
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I just got this awesome little air pump. It's only 7 inches long which fits perfectly in my seat bag. My other one was a lot longer and couldn't do both valve type. No need for co2 canisters with this one.
(Attachment Link)
How it works? I'm thinking to buy this pump for emergencies and because I think it's the only one able to fit in my saddle bag (max length its around 18cm). I read somewhere that this pumps with the hose usually overheat while pumping and you need to stop and let it cool down, otherwise you are not able to continue inflating the tyre. Any experience with this?
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How it works? I'm thinking to buy this pump for emergencies and because I think it's the only one able to fit in my saddle bag (max length its around 18cm). I read somewhere that this pumps with the hose usually overheat while pumping and you need to stop and let it cool down, otherwise you are not able to continue inflating the tyre. Any experience with this?
I never had that problem. Maybe with higher psi requirements and on a really hot day. If such as problem occurs let things cool and then continue on. I only have to go up to 80 psi on my road bike tires and I pumped up a mountain bike tire which was lower psi but much more volume than a road bike tire.
Also it was just about the only one that fits in my saddle bag. The person I helped with a flat only had co2, probably because that's what all the cool kids are doing these days.
I bought mine here:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/topeak-race-rocket-hp-pump/rp-prod74898
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How it works? I'm thinking to buy this pump for emergencies and because I think it's the only one able to fit in my saddle bag (max length its around 18cm). I read somewhere that this pumps with the hose usually overheat while pumping and you need to stop and let it cool down, otherwise you are not able to continue inflating the tyre. Any experience with this?
I never had that problem. Maybe with higher psi requirements and on a really hot day. If such as problem occurs let things cool and then continue on. I only have to go up to 80 psi on my road bike tires and I pumped up a mountain bike tire which was lower psi but much more volume than a road bike tire.
Also it was just about the only one that fits in my saddle bag. The person I helped with a flat only had co2, probably because that's what all the cool kids are doing these days.
I bought mine here:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/topeak-race-rocket-hp-pump/rp-prod74898
Yeah... Now people use co2. Its smaller and lighter than a pump but when you are with a heavy flat, with 0 air in the tyre there is no co2 that help you. And if you have to put a chamber GL trying to inflate it with co2. For me a pump its a 1 time buy and use endless
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i use co2 for the road bike and hand pump on the mtb
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http://www.harpintl.com/downloads%5Cpdf%5Cproduct_info%5CCO2-Cylinders---Safety-Information-200810.pdf
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Did my first century ride yesterday ;D
[attachimg=1]
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Nice one :cool:
I also did 100 recently, although it was kilometers :))
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Did my first century ride yesterday ;D
(Attachment Link)
Non-stop?
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Nice one :cool:
I also did 100 recently, although it was kilometers :))
Nice, that's a proper metric century.
Did my first century ride yesterday ;D
(Attachment Link)
Non-stop?
Very brief stops. About halfway I stopped at a convenience store to fill my water bottles. I basically went through a bottle an hour. One quick stop when nature called and another to enjoy a snack. Also had to pull completely off the road numerous times so I didn't get ran over and walk uphill a bit where it was too steep for me to even clip back in to my pedals. The scenery was so amazing but literally had no time to spare as I started later in the afternoon which wasn't the best idea. I was chasing the sun the second half of the ride a bit worried I would be stuck on the roads at night. Fortunately I was only had just a few miles left when it got dark.
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Did my first century ride yesterday ;D
(Attachment Link)
i'd die
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Did my first century ride yesterday ;D
(Attachment Link)
i'd die
Same :confused: Mad impressive JP! :thumb:
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lets keep this thread alive. here's the current state of the roadie.
close to being dialed, but a couple things to do:
- saddle angle needs to be leveled lol and need to finish my bike fit, but the fit is pretty good now
- the manual for speed bartape is pretty rare but kind of worn and doesn't match, i like the 3m godandfamous bartape so that's up next
- fork needs to be cut
- somehow i lost the battery cover on my power meter? need another one but its $15 for a piece of plastic
- i have to mount my replacement carbon cages for the cheaper forte carbon ones i have on the bike right now, although i haven't had complaints so far they don't look as slick as thinner matte cages
(Attachment Link)
If that frameset is a 54 and get tired of it. I would love to buy it off you :)
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lets keep this thread alive. here's the current state of the roadie.
close to being dialed, but a couple things to do:
- saddle angle needs to be leveled lol and need to finish my bike fit, but the fit is pretty good now
- the manual for speed bartape is pretty rare but kind of worn and doesn't match, i like the 3m godandfamous bartape so that's up next
- fork needs to be cut
- somehow i lost the battery cover on my power meter? need another one but its $15 for a piece of plastic
- i have to mount my replacement carbon cages for the cheaper forte carbon ones i have on the bike right now, although i haven't had complaints so far they don't look as slick as thinner matte cages
(Attachment Link)
Please tell me you've been riding it this summer :)
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Here's my bike. Canyon Endurace SLX. Only thing I changed was the stem/handlebar combo to a bigger size and a Brooks saddle
(https://i.imgur.com/Zlj25gp.jpg)
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Here's my bike. Canyon Endurace SLX. Only thing I changed was the stem/handlebar combo to a bigger size and a Brooks saddle
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Zlj25gp.jpg)
Nice...looks like a well sorted privateer race rig / go fast bike.
I added a couple additions to mine. Go fast wheels and now matching water bottle cages as the previous ones I started losing the water bottles on bumpy roads so I've learned it can be good to have a couple styles depending on the water bottle choice for a given ride.
[attachimg=1]
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Here's my bike. Canyon Endurace SLX. Only thing I changed was the stem/handlebar combo to a bigger size and a Brooks saddle
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Zlj25gp.jpg)
🤠 Endurace gang 🤠
(https://files.catbox.moe/fl6pih.jpg)
Here's my bike. Canyon Endurace SLX. Only thing I changed was the stem/handlebar combo to a bigger size and a Brooks saddle
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Zlj25gp.jpg)
Nice...looks like a well sorted privateer race rig / go fast bike.
I added a couple additions to mine. Go fast wheels and now matching water bottle cages as the previous ones I started losing the water bottles on bumpy roads so I've learned it can be good to have a couple styles depending on the water bottle choice for a given ride.
(Attachment Link)
😎 Very color coordinated 😎
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Got that gold chain I see :thumb: Also very aggressive with that -17 stem. I'm gonna get a bike fit soon to see if I can optimize my current setup but don't wanna go too aggressive since I'm going more for a balance between endurance and speed.
Also with that smaller frame I imagine it must be difficult to get a bottle out while riding. You probably won't drop a bottle with those style of cages but here is a thought: check out the cages where you can take a bottle out sideways. I originally bought some Enve Carbon cages really cheap from China. They are perfect for smaller sized frames but have noticed with smaller diameter bottles they could possibly fall out on bumpy roads but work great once you find the perfect sized water bottle.
[attachimg=1]
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On the straight, is a stiff rigid bike faster because it losses less power vs a bike with lots of shocks ?
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On the straight, is a stiff rigid bike faster because it losses less power vs a bike with lots of shocks ?
That is a loaded question and it depends! Many variables here and it depends on the riding you are doing. A full suspension mountain bike weighs more because of the extra hardware and will have some power loss depending on how it is adjusted based on the terrain. Some forks have a lockout which prevents suspension travel so you can ride faster on paved surfaces. The mountain bike with properly tuned-suspension will be faster off-road because you will have more comfort and control which allows you to go faster. On a paved road a stiffer bike frame generally is quicker or livelier but a bike frame (or specific places on a frame) can actually be too stiff for an individual rider so ideally this should be tuned to a rider based on pedal stroke and power output. A stronger rider or example would likely benefit from having a stiffer frame but generally any gains are marginal.
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I've lost interest in bikes :( For the last 6 months my Pinarello has been outside with its Brooks saddle open to the rain :(
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On the straight, is a stiff rigid bike faster because it losses less power vs a bike with lots of shocks ?
yeah, anything with shocks will always be slower than a rigid bike. some of the energy that you'll be putting down will just be sucked up with pumping the shock. all modern mid tier+ shocks will have a lockout feature, but still slower than rigid, and suspension is heavy. even between rigid frames, like with road bikes, the stiffness of the frame matters. racers always want stiffer frames that are less compliant because you minimize power loss when you're riding, and no one wants to ride a noodle-y bicycle anyway.
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I've lost interest in bikes :( For the last 6 months my Pinarello has been outside with its Brooks saddle open to the rain :(
Dang, that's like a criminal offense. You should have sold it off.
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Got that gold chain I see :thumb: Also very aggressive with that -17 stem. I'm gonna get a bike fit soon to see if I can optimize my current setup but don't wanna go too aggressive since I'm going more for a balance between endurance and speed.
Also with that smaller frame I imagine it must be difficult to get a bottle out while riding. You probably won't drop a bottle with those style of cages but here is a thought: check out the cages where you can take a bottle out sideways. I originally bought some Enve Carbon cages really cheap from China. They are perfect for smaller sized frames but have noticed with smaller diameter bottles they could possibly fall out on bumpy roads but work great once you find the perfect sized water bottle.
(Attachment Link)
😎 Gold gang 😎
Yeah Canyon uses a weird diameter on the fork so it was really hard to find any stem at the time that would fit aside from that -17/140mm stem.
I like to put more weight on my arms like riding a BMX bike so it worked out well for me.
Yeah I actually can't take the bottles out while riding 😛
Well I can but it's harder to put the bottles back in than take out so I don't.
I usually just stop and wedge them out lol, I'll look into these side exit cages.
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Busted the bike out for a ride to work (25 miles / 40km each way) last Friday! Felt great to get back on it for a long ride - and very thankful to have easy access to a good trail/path the entire way. :D Sadly I think I pushed past my limits just a bit, because I was totally zonked upon returning home, and was mostly useless the following day too. :))
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Busted the bike out for a ride to work (25 miles / 40km each way) last Friday! Felt great to get back on it for a long ride - and very thankful to have easy access to a good trail/path the entire way. :D Sadly I think I pushed past my limits just a bit, because I was totally zonked upon returning home, and was mostly useless the following day too. :))
Nice :thumb:
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Busted the bike out for a ride to work (25 miles / 40km each way) last Friday! Felt great to get back on it for a long ride - and very thankful to have easy access to a good trail/path the entire way. :D Sadly I think I pushed past my limits just a bit, because I was totally zonked upon returning home, and was mostly useless the following day too. :))
:thumb:
Likewise, my first mountain bike ride finished at just 4 miles and I already felt like dying.
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Busted the bike out for a ride to work (25 miles / 40km each way) last Friday! Felt great to get back on it for a long ride - and very thankful to have easy access to a good trail/path the entire way. :D Sadly I think I pushed past my limits just a bit, because I was totally zonked upon returning home, and was mostly useless the following day too. :))
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Don't worry, you'll get there.
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Did a climb I haven't rode in over a year and have gotten a lot quicker :cool:
Was famished this time too since it was near the end of my ride, might give it a go early on like the last time.
(https://files.catbox.moe/o4aqlz.jpg)
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Did a climb I haven't rode in over a year and have gotten a lot quicker :cool:
Was famished this time too since it was near the end of my ride, might give it a go early on like the last time.
Show Image
(https://files.catbox.moe/o4aqlz.jpg)
I love that feeling. This past couple months I've smashed all of my PR's by a large margin. Unfortunately I been slacking the past couple weeks and have a century ride I'm not ready for one bit including lack of travel preparations. Also have a hilly century at the end of October so I can't wait to compare my previous efforts.
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Did a climb I haven't rode in over a year and have gotten a lot quicker :cool:
Was famished this time too since it was near the end of my ride, might give it a go early on like the last time.
Show Image
(https://files.catbox.moe/o4aqlz.jpg)
Nice!! Seeing that sort of progress is such a great motivator. :D
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Checked my bike chain for stretch today, couldn't quite fit the 1% end in all the way but 0.75% is easy so it's basically dead. Was hoping to have decided what drivetrain I want before this happened but no such luck! I guess if I'm planning on changing everything and only riding 6 miles a day due to illness I just keep riding until it snaps while doing research?
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Checked my bike chain for stretch today, couldn't quite fit the 1% end in all the way but 0.75% is easy so it's basically dead. Was hoping to have decided what drivetrain I want before this happened but no such luck! I guess if I'm planning on changing everything and only riding 6 miles a day due to illness I just keep riding until it snaps while doing research?
Old worn chain could eventually snap. Also it might wear out your drivetrain a bit faster. Whatever you do, never use an old chain with a new drivetrain if you upgrade.
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Getting my first steel gravel bike, a 2018 Raleigh Tamland 1. A solid bike that was marked down quite a bit since its an older model at the end of the riding season. Just gotta assemble it once it arrives.
[attachimg=1]
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Aka a great winter bike.
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Would make for a decent Hawthorne Trail or Gville townie bike.
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Would make for a decent Hawthorne Trail or Gville townie bike.
Yeah looking to do some gravel trails at some of our state parks as well as some other urban adventures. Current winter bike and basic commuting has been a single speed with skinny tires.
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Old worn chain could eventually snap. Also it might wear out your drivetrain a bit faster. Whatever you do, never use an old chain with a new drivetrain if you upgrade.
Yeah, looking at new BB, cranks/rings, chain and cassette so I guess the only thing to worry about is leg or frame damage if the chain whips off. I've resisted doing part upgrades so new bits don't wear quicker due to old but between work, buying everything to go to a festival and being ill for a couple of months so not really capable of working it all out I've completely missed that.
Instead of it's perfected form I have a slightly squeaky bike with mismatched wheels (27.5x2.0 and 29x1.6) that could stop working at any time. Just what you want in the rain...
p.s. That Raleigh looks lovely, could have something to do with the colour :))
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Getting my first steel gravel bike, a 2018 Raleigh Tamland 1. A solid bike that was marked down quite a bit since its an older model at the end of the riding season. Just gotta assemble it once it arrives.
(Attachment Link)
Nice one 😎
Been looking for a fixie or something with less gears for the upcoming rainy months so there's less maintenance on my Canyon.
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Been looking for a fixie or something with less gears for the upcoming rainy months so there's less maintenance on my Canyon.
As far as fixie/single speed you could find something locally for cheap or you could get a 6KU or spend a little bit more for something like an Aventon Cordoba which is essentially an upgraded 6KU.
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Getting my first steel gravel bike, a 2018 Raleigh Tamland 1. A solid bike that was marked down quite a bit since its an older model at the end of the riding season. Just gotta assemble it once it arrives.
(Attachment Link)
Nice one 😎
Been looking for a fixie or something with less gears for the upcoming rainy months so there's less maintenance on my Canyon.
i don't think having gears are that evil. especially if you're running 1x it's not much work. i feel like there's an obsession over ss/fixie culture but honestly i think they're kind of slow, and you don't want to be skidding around in the rain on a fixie. my commuter is a nashbar cx frame, 1x10 drivetrain with mismatched shimano derailleur and shifter, 32c commuter tires. i paid $150 for it and i've been using it for the last few years. i have spare rings, cassette and chain and i'm about to redo the drivetrain but it's really treated me well. i also have a kilo tt fixie that i literally never ride. if you're really into the gearless life i think ss or internally geared hubs are a good pick.
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If you're running an IGH, gears aren't much work at all.
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If you're running an IGH, gears aren't much work at all.
It's just a shame that all IGH designers think people want to go up hills - I ride the top six of a 13-25 cassette 95% of the time and never use the 25, always on the 50 chainring. The only option for this seems to be a NuVinci/Enviolo but there are no drop bar shifters available and while the twister on the end of the bar might be OK with the lump at the end the cables would go the wrong way so that's not an option.
I wonder what marvels Shimano reserve for the Japanese market? They have dynamo lights (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-black-ALPC2201BJ2AL-basket-trade-corresponding-hub-dynamo-J-fromJAPAN/362774283850?hash=item547708464a:g:yUcAAOSwwKNdmP1f)...
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If you're running an IGH, gears aren't much work at all.
It's just a shame that all IGH designers think people want to go up hills - I ride the top six of a 13-25 cassette 95% of the time and never use the 25, always on the 50 chainring. The only option for this seems to be a NuVinci/Enviolo but there are no drop bar shifters available and while the twister on the end of the bar might be OK with the lump at the end the cables would go the wrong way so that's not an option.
I wonder what marvels Shimano reserve for the Japanese market? They have dynamo lights (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-black-ALPC2201BJ2AL-basket-trade-corresponding-hub-dynamo-J-fromJAPAN/362774283850?hash=item547708464a:g:yUcAAOSwwKNdmP1f)...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-Nexus-SG-C7000-5R-internal-5-speed/dp/B07V7JG5ZR
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If you're running an IGH, gears aren't much work at all.
It's just a shame that all IGH designers think people want to go up hills...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-Nexus-SG-C7000-5R-internal-5-speed/dp/B07V7JG5ZR
Thanks, I got excited (it's sold as e-bike so hadn't come across that one) but it only has five gears over a 263% range, I mainly use six gears over 146% and my whole cassette is only 192%. I want the 'road racer' version which will never happen as IGH is heavy.
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Been looking for a fixie or something with less gears for the upcoming rainy months so there's less maintenance on my Canyon.
As far as fixie/single speed you could find something locally for cheap or you could get a 6KU or spend a little bit more for something like an Aventon Cordoba which is essentially an upgraded 6KU.
That Aventon looks slick :cool:
I'll see if I can put mudguards on either 🤨
Those seem pretty well priced too, the only fixed gears I know are too expensive since I only see them when I'm at the velodrome with their Zipp discs lol.
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That Aventon looks slick :cool:
I'll see if I can put mudguards on either 🤨
Those seem pretty well priced too, the only fixed gears I know are too expensive since I only see them when I'm at the velodrome with their Zipp discs lol.
Mudguard options are rather limited but you can get clip on mudguards. I have them on mine but it was a bit of trouble finding ones that worked. A lot of local messengers all have cheap fixed gear bikes. If you get something like this make sure you install brakes and if just riding single speed rather than fixed then also install a rear brake. These bikes can be dangerous. Out of the box though they are like 85% assembled.
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Has anyone used a backpack-pannier? I need a new bag and as it's mainly used for commuting these seem like a good option but I can't help thinking it's a bad idea as having weight hanging off one side will affect the handling.
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Has anyone used a backpack-pannier? I need a new bag and as it's mainly used for commuting these seem like a good option but I can't help thinking it's a bad idea as having weight hanging off one side will affect the handling.
It's may not be the best idea but it depends on how much weight you are talking. Too much weight on one side will affect the handling. Also it's probably best to avoid taking corners fast on loose gravel if you have a weight imbalance which you may not be used to riding with. You can test the handling by progressively adding more weight. If the bike will be too imbalanced you should either load the other side, wear the backpack on your back, or put the weight somewhere else such as front or rear rack.
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(or inside the front triangle)
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Thanks JP, I like cycling as common sense seems to apply where experience is lacking. I don't have a rack and don't want to buy one plus a bag only to find it doesn't work out though I'm not talking lots of weight - usually I'm ony carrying my lunch and a litre of drink, dry socks and a coat (leave home lunchtime, head home 10pm)
I've also been looking at jumbo saddle bags - better for balance and easy to remove but not so good off the bike, plus they block the seatpost and rack area so a rear light become an issue.
Or rack top bags which have shoulder straps and need a rack which lights could mount on, but they are a bit of a faff to take on and off...
(or inside the front triangle)
I think trying to convince a coat to stay at the top/front of one of them might be a bit of a challenge :)) There are small front ones but they look narrow and generally tiny, though can't say I've looked into these too hard.
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Thanks JP, I like cycling as common sense seems to apply where experience is lacking. I don't have a rack and don't want to buy one plus a bag only to find it doesn't work out though I'm not talking lots of weight - usually I'm ony carrying my lunch and a litre of drink, dry socks and a coat (leave home lunchtime, head home 10pm)
I've also been looking at jumbo saddle bags - better for balance and easy to remove but not so good off the bike, plus they block the seatpost and rack area so a rear light become an issue.
Or rack top bags which have shoulder straps and need a rack which lights could mount on, but they are a bit of a faff to take on and off...
(or inside the front triangle)
I think trying to convince a coat to stay at the top/front of one of them might be a bit of a challenge :)) There are small front ones but they look narrow and generally tiny, though can't say I've looked into these too hard.
I think the large saddle bag or a handlebar bag is the best option, they're the easiest to use and look the cleanest too. You can find a bag where you can fit a light on the back of the bag, or attach the light to the seatstay.
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Lights on the seatstay, hadn't thought of that. It's a pretty skinny tube at a steep angle so don't think my current rubber mounted light would stay there but a proper clamp would. Thanks for adding to the confusion!
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Lights on the seatstay, hadn't thought of that. It's a pretty skinny tube at a steep angle so don't think my current rubber mounted light would stay there but a proper clamp would. Thanks for adding to the confusion!
I like PDW's products but I'm definitely not into serious bike packing by any means. Maybe this might give you some inspiration. I personally do not like any weight attached to my handlebars. I tried the PDW takeout basket but just decided to go with a medium sized backpack which has enough space for a light fall/spring jacket, tools, a couple beers, and other misc. gear.
https://ridepdw.com/collections/cargo-and-bags
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Coincidence is a strange thing. Today after reconsidering switching to 1x gears I managed to snap my front derailleur clean off. How? My bike was wedged on a train with the back wheel in a corner and the front in a slot made for the job, I simply lifted the back wheel maybe six inches off the floor to release it and heard a 'snick' and there it was hanging off. I really don't understand how when I'm 99% sure nothing touched it!
Luckily I didn't accept the first chain offererd by my LBS recently (it was stretched but not as badly as I thought so everything else was OK) and instead got one with the reusable SRAM link so was only a short delay while I removed it. Also perhaps lucky it didn't snap while riding?!
So, 1xIGH, 1X10, buy a new derailleur or just ride as-is - 9 speed 50x13-25?
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Coincidence is a strange thing. Today after reconsidering switching to 1x gears I managed to snap my front derailleur clean off. How? My bike was wedged on a train with the back wheel in a corner and the front in a slot made for the job, I simply lifted the back wheel maybe six inches off the floor to release it and heard a 'snick' and there it was hanging off. I really don't understand how when I'm 99% sure nothing touched it!
Luckily I didn't accept the first chain offererd by my LBS recently (it was stretched but not as badly as I thought so everything else was OK) and instead got one with the reusable SRAM link so was only a short delay while I removed it. Also perhaps lucky it didn't snap while riding?!
So, 1xIGH, 1X10, buy a new derailleur or just ride as-is - 9 speed 50x13-25?
Do you ride up any steep hills? All depends on what kind of riding you are doing. With your current setup you are set forever if all you do is ride on flat paved roads. I would probably only do a 1x setup if you intend to turn this bike into a gravel rat.
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Do you ride up any steep hills? All depends on what kind of riding you are doing. With your current setup you are set forever if all you do is ride on flat paved roads. I would probably only do a 1x setup if you intend to turn this bike into a gravel rat.
My commute is mainly along the canal so the only 'hills' are bridges every mile or so, one bit of road which can easily be powered up and one short really steep bit of foot/cycle path with no option to carry any speed that I can get up in 50x21. I'm still not sure what else I'm going to do on the bike as I was crippled last summer and ill this! I dodged the bad weather (or rather the endless muddy puddle that for the rest of the year is a canal path) on the train last winter and was thinking I could go on the road this year and that's quite quite hilly, but now I'm back to zero fitness that will probably be put off until next year. Assuming they can fix me that is.
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Riding Weather here in SoCal is rather perfect at the moment high 60s low 70s (during the day) .. had rained a few days ago so the trail conditions are awesome (now that mud has gone away that is).. Out yesterday on 10~mile mtb ride w/ my Trance Advanced 2
[attachimg=1]
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Riding Weather here in SoCal is rather perfect at the moment high 60s low 70s (during the day) .. had rained a few days ago so the trail conditions are awesome (now that mud has gone away that is).. Out yesterday on 10~mile mtb ride w/ my Trance Advanced 2
(Attachment Link)
Was that 1/2 a mile in just after leaving the road? Looks way too clean...
Nice bike though :thumb:
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can't wait to get on the bike again, I've been putting off riding for several weeks now and I'm not happy about it. looking to do some good miles in the next month.
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can't wait to get on the bike again, I've been putting off riding for several weeks now and I'm not happy about it. looking to do some good miles in the next month.
Same :confused:
Just picked up some ZIPP 454 NSW + GP5K and I wanna try them out before I go to Dubai but it's been raining like crazy and want them to be fresh when I land there.
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can't wait to get on the bike again, I've been putting off riding for several weeks now and I'm not happy about it. looking to do some good miles in the next month.
Same :confused:
Just picked up some ZIPP 454 NSW + GP5K and I wanna try them out before I go to Dubai but it's been raining like crazy and want them to be fresh when I land there.
Geez you're dropping some fat stacks on your bike, you'll have to take some pics with the wheels on your bike
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Riding Weather here in SoCal is rather perfect at the moment high 60s low 70s (during the day) .. had rained a few days ago so the trail conditions are awesome (now that mud has gone away that is).. Out yesterday on 10~mile mtb ride w/ my Trance Advanced 2
(Attachment Link)
I took a friend out to one of the local MTB trails Sunday (perfect weather), and we had a lot of fun. He's deciding which bike to buy for ~$1200. He rented a Giant Talon 27.5 (all the local shop rents for hard tails), and I took my Trek Xcaliber 6 29er. I think we both decided we prefer 27.5" wheels. I was surprised how different they felt.
I've been wanting a Giant Trance myself. My local shop has had a 2019 Trance for about a year, but it's still full price ($2000), so I'm not sure if I should wait for it to be discounted or try to track down a 2020 model, which is only $100 more.
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I got some epic rides in the past couple weekends on my gravel rig thanks to some favorable weather :D
[attachimg=1]
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Still love that bike JP, glad to see the gravel's not chipping the paint :thumb:
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Still love that bike JP, glad to see the gravel's not chipping the paint :thumb:
All the females sees it be like, oooo, dis' guy employed++
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Still love that bike JP, glad to see the gravel's not chipping the paint :thumb:
Thanks! It's been a sweet bike so far but it is a bit on the heavy side being thick steel. I'm going to upgrade the brakes soon to TRP HY/RD hydraulic disc brakes and will be throwing on a R8000 groupset from a donor bike. I will also add a 11-34 cassette which should pair nicely with the 48/32 crankset. I'll be pretty well equipped for the hills. Also The paint of this bike chips super easy but you have to be super nosy to see those up close. It even had a large chip on the top tube when it was shipped but I used a sticker to cover that up. :thumb:
All the females sees it be like, oooo, dis' guy employed++
Haha :)) Sometimes I look like a bum and I drive an old rusted truck so my bike game does not translate well to the civilian world. Also if one were interested all I need to do is open my mouth and any potential charm I might have rapidly disappears. My bike game and gear is on point though. :thumb:
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I looked at my bike yesterday after about 3 years. It's all rusty and full of spiders :'(
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I'm going to upgrade the brakes soon to TRP HY/RD hydraulic disc brakes and will be throwing on a R8000 groupset from a donor bike. I will also add a 11-34 cassette which should pair nicely with the 48/32 crankset. I'll be pretty well equipped for the hills. Also The paint of this bike chips super easy but you have to be super nosy to see those up close. It even had a large chip on the top tube when it was shipped but I used a sticker to cover that up. :thumb:
I picked up some used HY/RDs, an improvement over the stock brakes but mainly noticeable by the lack of squeaking in the wet. Might be more useful for you if you're going up hills that need 32-34 gear though :eek: I've been running 1x9 but picked up a Nuvinci hub cheap and it's built up ready to fit this weekend, just need to run a second cable and get my head round the hub end shifty ring alignment, and hope my crank's chainline isn't too far out...
In other bike related news I managed to lose the bb end bolt from my rear mudguard yesterday and it's been rattling for a while anyway despite extra zip ties and sugru so I've just ordered some Pletschers which claim to support 8kg of luggage and are made for 27.5 wheels so should have less flappy bit sticking out the back. Assuming I can get them through the stays they should be tough enough to survive more than one winter unlike the SKS Bluemels(?) and Edge AL.
I looked at my bike yesterday after about 3 years. It's all rusty and full of spiders :'(
Oh dear. The spiders can be moved on but you're supposed to dry a steel bike before putting it away. A bit late for that advice!
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Oh dear. The spiders can be moved on but you're supposed to dry a steel bike before putting it away. A bit late for that advice!
Modern steel is highly resilient, it just looks busted, everything prolly wurk still gud"
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Test fitted Nuvinci wheel, the 'no turn washers' only go about 2mm into the dropout and with an aluminium frame that doesn't sound good, which is very annoying as the chainline appears to be perfect. Do these things have another name that is searchable? They're the black rings on the left
[attach=1]
Does it make any sense to buy a frame, fork and headset just to see if I like the Nuvinci? Pretty sure I have a spare everything else to make a second bike already :-[
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Is there any use in taking my bottom bracket apart to clean and relube it? I've been thinking of tearing my 15 year old road bike down, cleaning and lubing everything, and putting it back together, but I don't have any bike specific tools other than a pedal wrench. I figure, at the very least, I should get a cassette tool so that I can completely clean the cogs and clean the rear derailleur while I'm at it. I'd also like to replace the rusted screws everywhere.
Anyway, I'm not sure if opening up the BB would cause more problems that it would fix.
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Relubing bearings is usually a good idea, you need to get the tension right when rebuilding though else they wobble and wear quickly (not tight enough) or don't spin freely (too tight) If it's lasted 15 years and still spins nicely I'm not sure I'd touch it though. Any idea what model it is?
Cassettes require no skill just a chain whip and lockring tool, definitely worth doing (assuming it's actually dirty - if the cassette has lasted 15 years it can't see much use!)
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Relubing bearings is usually a good idea, you need to get the tension right when rebuilding though else they wobble and wear quickly (not tight enough) or don't spin freely (too tight) If it's lasted 15 years and still spins nicely I'm not sure I'd touch it though. Any idea what model it is?
Cassettes require no skill just a chain whip and lockring tool, definitely worth doing (assuming it's actually dirty - if the cassette has lasted 15 years it can't see much use!)
Thanks for the input. It's a Giant OCR3 from 2005, so whatever BB that has.
IIRC the BB still spins ok. I think I just wanted to clean everything up (I can't quite remember since it's been a few months since riding it).
As for the cassette, I think the shop replaced it during a tune-up maybe five or six years ago (and I've only ridden much recently in the past two), so it's still in good shape, just dirty.
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Rebuilding your bike would definitely help but you have to make sure you do the rebuild properly. I think new cables would give you the best gains, but if there's something severely wrong with your crankset you can try reinstalling and relubing it.
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New mudguards arrived, they have a slot at the front of the rear one but no other mounting holes. This is all the instructions included, assumedly the part names are in Swiss (which looks a lot like German?)
[attach=1]
Where most have wire these supports are thick enough to bash someone's head in should the need arise, and the guards themselves are also reassuringly sturdy. Think I need some more cable ties to bodge the old one on better to get me to the weekend though :))
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New mudguards arrived, they have a slot at the front of the rear one but no other mounting holes. This is all the instructions included, assumedly the part names are in Swiss (which looks a lot like German?)
(Attachment Link)
Where most have wire these supports are thick enough to bash someone's head in should the need arise, and the guards themselves are also reassuringly sturdy. Think I need some more cable ties to bodge the old one on better to get me to the weekend though :))
It's in German. #3 = End Cap :) I never look at these things usually.
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It's in German. #3 = End Cap :)
Indeed - and that's really good to know as they were already attached. But doesn't that make #15 and #16 are mothers?!
Luckily #16 is big enough on the middle pic to know it's a nut, can't be sure from anywhere else even with the paper rather than an out of focus pic.
I never look at these things usually.
The mounting is exactly the same for front and back so I could work that out but was hoping for some useful guidance like 'drill from the inside/outside so the paint doesn't chip' or maybe 'use an Xmm drill bit' or even 'if you're using a dynamo light put the wire through before attaching bolts' but no, just a flatpack style exploded drawing.
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Guys, I need some help with a bicycle-related thing.
I'm 186cm or about 6'10" and I'm checking out a second-hand gravel bike frame that's sized L. I'm currently using a Charge Plug 1 (2016) single-speed bike with an XL frame size and it's been serving me good and the fit seems fine as well. Every frame is different I know but checking most bike charts with road/gravel bike geometry I'm usually either in-between or just on the bottom of XL sizing.
Should I got for a L sized frame or better not and just keep looking? It's quite far away so I'd have to take a ~2h drive down to get it and it's only a frame so I can't get actually test out how it feels BUT I do understand that having a smaller frame would be better than a frame one size too big as I can always go for a taller seatpost, longer stem etc. The price is tempting (70€ = ~$75) and it's an aluminium frameset with disc brake mounts as well compatible with 650b/700c wheelsets.
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Guys, I need some help with a bicycle-related thing.
I'm 186cm or about 6'10" and I'm checking out a second-hand gravel bike frame that's sized L. I'm currently using a Charge Plug 1 (2016) single-speed bike with an XL frame size and it's been serving me good and the fit seems fine as well. Every frame is different I know but checking most bike charts with road/gravel bike geometry I'm usually either in-between or just on the bottom of XL sizing.
Should I got for a L sized frame or better not and just keep looking? It's quite far away so I'd have to take a ~2h drive down to get it and it's only a frame so I can't get actually test out how it feels BUT I do understand that having a smaller frame would be better than a frame one size too big as I can always go for a taller seatpost, longer stem etc. The price is tempting (70€ = ~$75) and it's an aluminium frameset with disc brake mounts as well compatible with 650b/700c wheelsets.
No way anyone here would be remotely qualified to answer this. You would need to work with a qualified bike fitter in person to best answer this and give you some perspective as far as what frame geometries would work best for you for the type of riding you would like to do. Every person is unique. Me personally I have longer legs and a shorter torso with moderate flexibility so regardless of frame size an aggressive racing geometry frame for example is pretty much the worst setup for me. At 6'10" I would think getting a frame too large would be quite unlikely. For $75 you can't buy much so that seems like a deal but of course it would be a gamble. I'd be sure and get some measurements and compare them with the bike you are currently riding. Another thing to consider, your body can sometimes adapt to an an ill fitting bike so I'd wary of getting a new bike based on an existing bike you have not been fitted to. The only other advise besides a bike fit would be to have a knowledgeable friend tag along with you if you know someone.
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Guys, I need some help with a bicycle-related thing.
I'm 186cm or about 6'10" and I'm checking out a second-hand gravel bike frame that's sized L. I'm currently using a Charge Plug 1 (2016) single-speed bike with an XL frame size and it's been serving me good and the fit seems fine as well. Every frame is different I know but checking most bike charts with road/gravel bike geometry I'm usually either in-between or just on the bottom of XL sizing.
Should I got for a L sized frame or better not and just keep looking? It's quite far away so I'd have to take a ~2h drive down to get it and it's only a frame so I can't get actually test out how it feels BUT I do understand that having a smaller frame would be better than a frame one size too big as I can always go for a taller seatpost, longer stem etc. The price is tempting (70€ = ~$75) and it's an aluminium frameset with disc brake mounts as well compatible with 650b/700c wheelsets.
Well you should be weary of the 2 hour drive because if the bike doesn't turn out perfect then you'll have wasted your time here. I think you can fit a large frame fine. There are factors that vary but honestly at 186cm you probably belong on an L and not an XL. Honestly though, I would never drive 2h for a bike that's $70. Ask the seller if they'll be any closer to you in the near future? Otherwise, I wouldn't pursue it
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Since it's so far away and basically whole world is shutdown in the midst of a pandemic I would think such a trip would not be advisable.
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In other news I just finished up with a fresh rebuild of my road bike with the help of a friend. Unfortunately the weather really isn't favorable for riding much this week.
[attachimg=1]
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No way anyone here would be remotely qualified to answer this. You would need to work with a qualified bike fitter in person to best answer this and give you some perspective as far as what frame geometries would work best for you for the type of riding you would like to do. Every person is unique. Me personally I have longer legs and a shorter torso with moderate flexibility so regardless of frame size an aggressive racing geometry frame for example is pretty much the worst setup for me. At 6'10" I would think getting a frame too large would be quite unlikely. For $75 you can't buy much so that seems like a deal but of course it would be a gamble. I'd be sure and get some measurements and compare them with the bike you are currently riding. Another thing to consider, your body can sometimes adapt to an an ill fitting bike so I'd wary of getting a new bike based on an existing bike you have not been fitted to. The only other advise besides a bike fit would be to have a knowledgeable friend tag along with you if you know someone.
Since it's so far away and basically whole world is shutdown in the midst of a pandemic I would think such a trip would not be advisable.
I understand that I should probably do a bike fitting but it's a bit out-of-the-question right now given the Covid-19 and it's quite expensive... But it's on the list though! Currently, I'm sticking with bike chart recommendations as I'm nowhere near to do races or actually do performance rides (Strava doesn't count :D). I just thought that given I'm in-between that someone has been in the same kind of situation. I don't really have any friends that are into cycling so I'm mostly stuck with general discussions on the interwebs.
Well you should be weary of the 2 hour drive because if the bike doesn't turn out perfect then you'll have wasted your time here. I think you can fit a large frame fine. There are factors that vary but honestly at 186cm you probably belong on an L and not an XL. Honestly though, I would never drive 2h for a bike that's $70. Ask the seller if they'll be any closer to you in the near future? Otherwise, I wouldn't pursue it
Yeah, the drive was really what made me think about it. Maybe I'm missing out as it ticked most boxes what I was looking for (disc brake mounts, 650b/700c compatible, aluminium frameset, powder-coated in a nice sand/olive green) but he didn't budge on the price. Kinda get it given it's low already but travel time and gas would at least be worth letting the pricing down some $10-ish.
So what I'm trying to say - I didn't get it. Would've been an impulsive buy and I can probably put $75 towards something more useful like a speed sensor or smth. Need to get one for those bike roller sessions.
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In other news I just finished up with a fresh rebuild of my road bike with the help of a friend. Unfortunately the weather really isn't favorable for riding much this week.
(Attachment Link)
Damn, that's a lovely bike. That big chainring is massive!
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Damn, that's a lovely bike. That big chainring is massive!
Thanks! The big chainring is a 52 tooth (52/36 Mid-Compact crankset) so yes I'd consider it pretty large. A friend of mine rides a standard which is a 53/39 (basically what pros use to go fast in the flats). I am a mortal / amateur so no way I'm able to max out either (40+ mph) unless maybe riding down a mountain descent. :eek:
Heck on my gravel bike my large chainring is a 48 tooth and can't spin that out (35+ mph).
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Yeah, the drive was really what made me think about it. Maybe I'm missing out as it ticked most boxes what I was looking for (disc brake mounts, 650b/700c compatible, aluminium frameset, powder-coated in a nice sand/olive green) but he didn't budge on the price. Kinda get it given it's low already but travel time and gas would at least be worth letting the pricing down some $10-ish.
So what I'm trying to say - I didn't get it. Would've been an impulsive buy and I can probably put $75 towards something more useful like a speed sensor or smth. Need to get one for those bike roller sessions.
There will always be good deals. Stay safe first. The best time to buy a bike is always next year :)
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Yeah, the drive was really what made me think about it. Maybe I'm missing out as it ticked most boxes what I was looking for (disc brake mounts, 650b/700c compatible, aluminium frameset, powder-coated in a nice sand/olive green) but he didn't budge on the price. Kinda get it given it's low already but travel time and gas would at least be worth letting the pricing down some $10-ish.
So what I'm trying to say - I didn't get it. Would've been an impulsive buy and I can probably put $75 towards something more useful like a speed sensor or smth. Need to get one for those bike roller sessions.
There will always be good deals. Stay safe first. The best time to buy a bike is always next year :)
Thanks mate for the encouragement. Feel better on not going for it. :)
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I've been away for a while but I do have something to show you people of what I did in the meantime (a.k.a. the other expensive hobby):
1980's Batavus Randonneur GL
Batavus Randonneur GL project - Bikeforums (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1134764-batavus-randonneur-gl-project.html)
My own long-distance bike. Very comfortable on longer days.
(http://i.imgur.com/ylVO2vZh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ylVO2vZ)
1995 Gazelle Lausanne 'mixte'
1995 Gazelle Lausanne 'mixte' - Bikeforums (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1172051-1995-gazelle-lausanne-mixte.html)
Built this one for my girlfriend as her citybike/commuter. She was surprised, kind of confused but certainly appreciates it now. :P
(http://i.imgur.com/KvgC5d0h.jpg) (https://imgur.com/KvgC5d0)
And my current project;
1996 Koga-Miyata SilverAce Project
1996 Koga-Miyata SilverAce Project - Bikeforums (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1181867-1996-koga-miyata-silverace-project.html)
My own drum-brake commuter. Should be ready in a month or so when all the parts come in.
In its current state however;
(http://i.imgur.com/oczvABJh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/oczvABJ)
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Very classy. You must have some nice keyboards too. Retro full size Alps maybe?
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Very classy. You must have some nice keyboards too. Retro full size Alps maybe?
Thanks. I managed to tone it down to a Duck Orion V1 TKL at home and a Weaven 60% at work.
No classy retro boards for me unfortunately.
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Oh, I forgot to share a recent new bike day. It’s a 1977 Nishiki Olympic Royale. I picked this up from a friend for < $100. Definitely a survivor bike. I have the original saddle and other bits like reflectors stripped off to save some weight.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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I see a few Brooks saddles here. Is it worth giving them another shot? I tried a B17 last summer, but it did not impress me - the leather was lopsided, so it felt slanted from left to right; and my sit bones seemed too close to the rivets on the back no matter how I positioned it. I have heard of the "break-in period", but mine had butt dimples after just two rides, so I don't think that was the problem. I wondered if I got a lemon or one that had already been used and returned.
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I've been away for a while but I do have something to show you people of what I did in the meantime (a.k.a. the other expensive hobby):
1980's Batavus Randonneur GL
Batavus Randonneur GL project - Bikeforums (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1134764-batavus-randonneur-gl-project.html)
I love this build. Also that headlight bracket is quite clever.
I see a few Brooks saddles here. Is it worth giving them another shot? I tried a B17 last summer, but it did not impress me - the leather was lopsided, so it felt slanted from left to right; and my sit bones seemed too close to the rivets on the back no matter how I positioned it. I have heard of the "break-in period", but mine had butt dimples after just two rides, so I don't think that was the problem. I wondered if I got a lemon or one that had already been used and returned.
So I only got to ride the Brooks saddle once before I had to give it up as my friend wanted it back and it was already broken in by him. I found it surprisingly comfortable with the nose pointed up but uncomfortable in an aggressive position while using the drops. I really would have liked more time to evaluate it and mess with the fit. I think if you have a vintage bike it's a good choice. Now I need to decide whether to ride with the original black saddle or get a Brooks of my own which will likely be more than I paid for the entire bike. The downside to the Brooks is you don't want them to get wet and you have to take care of the leather.
I'd say possibly worth looking into again. Also perhaps research some alternatives.
https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/1167110-alternatives-brooks-saddle.html
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I see a few Brooks saddles here. Is it worth giving them another shot? I tried a B17 last summer, but it did not impress me - the leather was lopsided, so it felt slanted from left to right; and my sit bones seemed too close to the rivets on the back no matter how I positioned it. I have heard of the "break-in period", but mine had butt dimples after just two rides, so I don't think that was the problem. I wondered if I got a lemon or one that had already been used and returned.
I used one for several years and never liked it. Wife's run of the mill bike has the saddle I like much more.
My Brooks had died of adverse weather, but I have no hard feelings about it.
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Giving SwissStop a go :cool:
Wanted to get one with fins but figured I should see if I like them first.
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/702190414689730702/704426555538931712/image0.jpg)
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In other news I just finished up with a fresh rebuild of my road bike with the help of a friend. Unfortunately the weather really isn't favorable for riding much this week.
(Attachment Link)
did not expect to see a low in this thread. i want one so bad. its one of my dream frames. he mentioned he may be doing lowkey road frames and if he does, snap buy!
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Does chocolate come with every pad ?
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Just picked up a new bike a while ago. It's a 2019 Norco Section Carbon. Loving it so far just going to switch out a few goodies :cool:
(https://imgur.com/VLBD8Rs.jpg)
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Just picked up a new bike a while ago. It's a 2019 Norco Section Carbon. Loving it so far just going to switch out a few goodies :cool:
Show Image
(https://imgur.com/VLBD8Rs.jpg)
As I already mentioned on IG, it's a really nice bike. If only Norcos were sold in Latvia.
Found couple of reasonably priced gravel bike options locally and if all is good, planning to cop one up in the near future! Single-speed gravel rides are okay but a bit limiting when planning an interesting route.
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Just picked up a new bike a while ago. It's a 2019 Norco Section Carbon. Loving it so far just going to switch out a few goodies :cool:
Show Image
(https://imgur.com/VLBD8Rs.jpg)
Gonna ride some gravel with it?
If you buy two more stems and some bars you can mount them on your current bars to have a makeshift Grail :cool:
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Purchased a new bike! A commuter-focused package (fenders, rack, dynamo hub with front/rear lights) but beneath is a good spec and quite affordable gravel bike. Will take more photos once the weather is nice and I get some accessories and settle in. Waiting on SPD pedals so plastic pedals are just placeholders. Did a 30km ride already on it with some off-road and road segments and it handles real good!
(https://i.imgur.com/OFmGeRO.jpg)
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I'm 186cm or about 6'10" and I'm checking out a second-hand gravel bike frame that's sized L. I'm currently using a Charge Plug 1 (2016) single-speed bike with an XL frame size and it's been serving me good and the fit seems fine as well. Every frame is different I know but checking most bike charts with road/gravel bike geometry I'm usually either in-between or just on the bottom of XL sizing.
Well that was certainly confusing- I was wondering how a 6'10"giant could squeeze onto a L sized bike.
Then I realised that 186cm is 6.1 feet.
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I'm 186cm or about 6'10" and I'm checking out a second-hand gravel bike frame that's sized L. I'm currently using a Charge Plug 1 (2016) single-speed bike with an XL frame size and it's been serving me good and the fit seems fine as well. Every frame is different I know but checking most bike charts with road/gravel bike geometry I'm usually either in-between or just on the bottom of XL sizing.
Well that was certainly confusing- I was wondering how a 6'10"giant could squeeze onto a L sized bike.
Then I realised that 186cm is 6.1 feet.
Oh, I'm very sorry about this confusion. The issues when metric and imperial people meet. :D
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Very nice! New bike days are the best.
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My mtb's are probably the only thing keeping me from losing my mind right now... I'm soooooo sick of this **** I can't even put it into words.
My bikes trance adv 2 27.5 (2018) and a borrowed 2020 Trance Advanced Pro 2 29er that I've had on loan since all the virus stuff kicked off.
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My mtb's are probably the only thing keeping me from losing my mind right now... I'm soooooo sick of this **** I can't even put it into words.
My bikes trance adv 2 27.5 (2018) and a borrowed 2020 Trance Advanced Pro 2 29er that I've had on loan since all the virus stuff kicked off.
Do you prefer the longer travel on a smaller wheel or shorter travel on a bigger wheel? I've been wanting a Trance myself, but I've heard the 27.5 and 29er versions are very different and can't decide on one. My only point of comparison for wheel size is between a Trek hard tail and Giant dual suspension, so not the apples to apples comparison that you have.
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A buddy and I escaped the chaos of the city and completed our first century ride of the year. Actually it was my longest ride to date at about 110 miles, plus a bit extra later in the evening. The ride was so awesome. No traffic or potholes! The wind was brutal but we had a tailwind back so we were feeling pretty good. The serenity of this ride was later to be overshadowed by an evening of rioting in the downtown area where I live. So insane, did this ride and later rode to the protests which soon became a riot filled with tear gas, broken windows, looting, fires, chaos, and gunfire. :(
[attachimg=1]
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In other news I just finished up with a fresh rebuild of my road bike with the help of a friend. Unfortunately the weather really isn't favorable for riding much this week.
(Attachment Link)
did not expect to see a low in this thread. i want one so bad. its one of my dream frames. he mentioned he may be doing lowkey road frames and if he does, snap buy!
Haha I love it. So fast! Pricey though. Those Lowkey frames are definitely a bargain and look amazing. Yeah too bad there isn't a road frame version yet.
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Sounds like a good day JP. shame about the evening but at least you had a fast bike to make your getaway when things got bad.
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Sounds like a good day JP. shame about the evening but at least you had a fast bike to make your getaway when things got bad.
I switched to my gravel bike which is better suited to the urban streets filled with glass and doesn't look too fancy yet is still plenty fast. My helmet and cycling eye-wear also gave me like +10 riot resistance.
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Sounds like a good day JP. shame about the evening but at least you had a fast bike to make your getaway when things got bad.
I switched to my gravel bike which is better suited to the urban streets filled with glass and doesn't look too fancy yet is still plenty fast. My helmet and cycling eye-wear also gave me like +10 riot resistance.
More like a "riot bike" eh? Okay, won't continue down this path...
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Sounds like a good day JP. shame about the evening but at least you had a fast bike to make your getaway when things got bad.
I switched to my gravel bike which is better suited to the urban streets filled with glass and doesn't look too fancy yet is still plenty fast. My helmet and cycling eye-wear also gave me like +10 riot resistance.
But lycra, what about lycra?
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Needed some new mudguards since I couldn't find any with my front wheel/fork compatibility and just had a clip on one for rear.
Byker recommended the SKS Raceblade Pro XL and they are slick :cool:
(https://files.catbox.moe/bauncr.jpg)
(https://files.catbox.moe/um8aep.jpg)
(https://files.catbox.moe/5dfccq.jpg)
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Needed some new mudguards since I couldn't find any with my front wheel/fork compatibility and just had a clip on one for rear.
Byker recommended the SKS Raceblade Pro XL and they are slick :cool:
Show Image
(https://files.catbox.moe/bauncr.jpg)
Show Image
(https://files.catbox.moe/um8aep.jpg)
Show Image
(https://files.catbox.moe/5dfccq.jpg)
Have these same ones for a couple of years and they're super nice! So easy to remove on those sunny days when you know you don't need'em and just as easy to put back on in the morning before work when you know it'll rain. Other mudguards may offer more "dry zone coverage" but rarely they are this slick indeed!
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Just found this thread. I ran club track in college but am hanging up the shoes for a bit due to injury frustrations. Been riding a lot more the last few months and started getting into some more meaty workouts the last few weeks after building up some base miles on the bike. Really excited for things to open back up, I wanna try to get my feet wet in bike racing with some local crits.
My new wheels came in yesterday. I'll try to put them on this week and get a good photo
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Just found this thread. I ran club track in college but am hanging up the shoes for a bit due to injury frustrations. Been riding a lot more the last few months and started getting into some more meaty workouts the last few weeks after building up some base miles on the bike. Really excited for things to open back up, I wanna try to get my feet wet in bike racing with some local crits.
My new wheels came in yesterday. I'll try to put them on this week and get a good photo
:thumb: Keyboards and bikes have a lot in common, like being both practical and customizable
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Been riding this one since late 2018. Super fun XC hardtail at 8.95 kg with pedals, 29x2.25 tires and a dropper post
(https://i.imgur.com/cbcexcP.jpg)
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Keyboards and bikes have a lot in common, like being both practical and customizable
And both are an expensive nightmare to customise right as a newbie who doesn't know what they like (fitted my sixth set of handlebars in 18 months of riding today (https://cdn.geekhack.org/Smileys/solosmileys/laugh.gif))
Been riding this one since late 2018. Super fun XC hardtail at 8.95 kg with pedals, 29x2.25 tires and a dropper post
Looks good, at that weight I guess it's carbon?
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And both are an expensive nightmare to customise right as a newbie who doesn't know what they like (fitted my sixth set of handlebars in 18 months of riding today Show Image
(https://cdn.geekhack.org/Smileys/solosmileys/laugh.gif)
)
Oh yeah, this hobby can be more expensive than keyboards depending how deep you get into the hobby. That's a lot of handlebars! Buying the right stuff is so tricky as a beginner or even experienced amateur. If you start off with the wrong bike frame (wrong size, wrong geometry) you are even more screwed. I've been through different handlebars, seat posts, 3 different pairs of shoes (ordered the wrong size twice :-[), and tried like 5-6 different saddles. Fortunately bike stuff is very resellable in many cases so I've been able to break even or make money in some cases selling off the parts that didn't work out for me. It's awesome once you find what works or what you like.
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Been riding this one since late 2018. Super fun XC hardtail at 8.95 kg with pedals, 29x2.25 tires and a dropper post
Dropper posts are just amazing for trails that get steep. Is that one remote activated? I can't see the cable routing.
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That's a lot of handlebars!
Stock drops, like stock but narrower, Soma Condor (really shallow narrow drops with no tops), bullhorns, Surly Moloko (got Nuvinci hub, need 22.2mm) and yesterday Soma Gator wide 22.2mm drops. Left headlight charging at work so not tested properly but hopefull I'm done.
If you start off with the wrong bike frame (wrong size, wrong geometry) you are even more screwed.
How do you even find this out, literally buy another bike? Can't exactly swap all the bits quick enough to remember how it felt...
I've been through ... seat posts ... 5-6 saddles
I borrowed lots of bendy Selle SMPs and after a week or so on each landed up with a cheap one. No regrets a year on. It is right back on the rails so I think an offset post would allow more rail flex/comfort but not rushing to swap the post.
3 different pairs of shoes (ordered the wrong size twice :-[)
I've bought shoes local so I could try them on, first pair were cheap and broke (not sure if I wanted to go 'clipless' - for anyone wondering it's great) second are non-existant protection wise so were put away for winter (should get them out now! or not - it's raining for the first time in weeks) and third are waterproof winter boots. Probably the only area I've been efficient money wise.
Fortunately bike stuff is very resellable in many cases so I've been able to break even or make money in some cases selling off the parts that didn't work out for me. It's awesome once you find what works or what you like.
Hopefully you'ri right. I've still got expensive mudguards (fenders) in a box as they don't fit forks or stays. need to take a grinder to them. Also need to build a front wheel (the rim is currently a rear - wasted spokes and hub purchase) but can't decide dynamo or not and considering a different fork (carbon or steel would be nicer than the stock alu) so axle is also undecided. I'm thinking rather than spending this time :thumb:
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I also need to find a replacement saddle for my Brooks.
And somehow get rid of the Campagnolo rear wheel I don't use any more.
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How do you even find this out, literally buy another bike? Can't exactly swap all the bits quick enough to remember how it felt...
This usually isn't too big an issue if you at least get somewhat close to the correct sized bike. The trouble with bike geometry happens more with roadies who buy road bikes with an aggressive geometry like I did. A lot of these bikes put you in a racer’s position with a long reach and short stack (aggressive) which for me is actually the worst bike frame based on my proportions (long legs / short torso) coupled with a lack of flexibility and muscle imbalances. I've made it work but I would have saved a lot of headache with an endurance bike which will be comfortable for long, all-day rides (endurance/relaxed) thanks to a short reach and high stack.
One way to determine this would be to work with a bike fitter and have a bike fit done on your current bike.
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Speaking of fit... I am pretty tall around 6'3". When I was in the market for a "new" bike I first looked at used bikes on craigslist/DC bike marketplaces.
SO MANY NICE BIKES FOR GREAT PRICES. all of them too small for me :(
Ended up getting a good deal on a last years model cannondale in the end from a LBS, but if I were a few inches shorter I'd have orders of magnitude more choices in the used bike market
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Been riding this one since late 2018. Super fun XC hardtail at 8.95 kg with pedals, 29x2.25 tires and a dropper post
Dropper posts are just amazing for trails that get steep. Is that one remote activated? I can't see the cable routing.
It has a remote on the left side of the handlebar and the cable is routed from the BB to the headtube inside the frame. New frames these days tend to route cables internally.
SO MANY NICE BIKES FOR GREAT PRICES. all of them too small for me :(
Have you tried Pinkbike? I bought and sold a lot of stuff there. https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/
Looks good, at that weight I guess it's carbon?
Some of it yes. Cranks, saddle, stem, fork are alloy
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In my garage just sitting there. There is such a good original Colnago/campagnolo road bike setup. I got it in the early 80's. Back then 6 grand for a bike was insane. Now Treks are 25 grand.
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In my garage just sitting there. There is such a good original Colnago/campagnolo road bike setup. I got it in the early 80's. Back then 6 grand for a bike was insane. Now Treks are 25 grand.
When a bike costs that much, are you really getting them gains if you're not a semi-professional/professional? Like giving a top-tier gaming PC to your grandparents so they can read the news online. Be content with what you have because after a certain point there's not really a reason to have the best. The ride and them feels of the journey is what matters. Of course, I'm not saying stick with an old rusty one but I think y'all get what I'm trying to say.
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You want a good bike, you buy a good bike.
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No. I road that bike about 20,000 miles. I did ride competitively. Ironman and stuff. I used to be very serious about fitness. I won money and prizes. So it was more of an investment. Plus if you are going to put on that many miles, you would hopefully be able to obtain serious equipment. The $25K Treks today I do not quite understand. I guess they are an upper bracket brand now or something. Ernesto Colnago is long gone. Those just have his name now. I hear they are nowhere near the quality of the ones he hand made. As far as Groupos, I guess Shimano is the best now. People for the most part do not even mess with sew up tires anymore. Things have changed. I honestly used to be able to ride that bike 50 miles per hour on flat ground. I knew Greg Lemond. So I took it seriously. I think it was justified. It is not like I road around the block on weekends.
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No. I road that bike about 20,000 miles. I did ride competitively. Ironman and stuff. I used to be very serious about fitness. I won money and prizes. So it was more of an investment. Plus if you are going to put on that many miles, you would hopefully be able to obtain serious equipment. The $25K Treks today I do not quite understand. I guess they are an upper bracket brand now or something. Ernesto Colnago is long gone. Those just have his name now. I hear they are nowhere near the quality of the ones he hand made. As far as Groupos, I guess Shimano is the best now. People for the most part do not even mess with sew up tires anymore. Things have changed. I honestly used to be able to ride that bike 50 miles per hour on flat ground. I knew Greg Lemond. So I took it seriously. I think it was justified. It is not like I road around the block on weekends.
I'm sorry if you understood it personally, it was meant more about an "everyday Joe" in general. If you have done it competitively, got podium places and put the miles on it then it's fine, of course. It's also fine if you can afford and WANT one. Just some people that have monies go for full carbon, low weight, Di2 groupsets etc. to show off at group rides to their buddies and I feel that they're missing the point. People are driven by outer factors and are sometimes more into the bling and less into the activity itself.
I do apologize and didn't want to come off as aggressive or judge you personally.
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Just some people that have monies go for full carbon, low weight, Di2 groupsets etc. to show off at group rides to their buddies and I feel that they're missing the point. People are driven by outer factors and are sometimes more into the bling and less into the activity itself.
I'm always confused by the people who buy the lightest, most aero, bike they can afford to 'get fit'. They'd get fitter quicker if they had a heavier bike (more effort for less miles) and they'd have money to spend in the extra time too!
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No. I road that bike about 20,000 miles. I did ride competitively. Ironman and stuff. I used to be very serious about fitness. I won money and prizes. So it was more of an investment. Plus if you are going to put on that many miles, you would hopefully be able to obtain serious equipment. The $25K Treks today I do not quite understand. I guess they are an upper bracket brand now or something. Ernesto Colnago is long gone. Those just have his name now. I hear they are nowhere near the quality of the ones he hand made. As far as Groupos, I guess Shimano is the best now. People for the most part do not even mess with sew up tires anymore. Things have changed. I honestly used to be able to ride that bike 50 miles per hour on flat ground. I knew Greg Lemond. So I took it seriously. I think it was justified. It is not like I road around the block on weekends.
I was immediately faster on my new bike compared with my first entry level road bike. I also do a lot of training on my 30lb / 13kg gravel bike with aggressive tires that slow me down. I am still pretty quick on that bike but my road bike is a rocket ship. It accelerates so fast. It is just fun to ride a cool bike and extra speed and ease of hill climbing is a nice bonus. If I just had a Wal-mart bike I wouldn't be that motivated to ride it. Once you get past the mid-range $2-4k bikes and up to super bike territory ($10k+) the gains are very marginal if any for us amateurs. Also the fancy lighter components sometimes won't hold up to the test of time but you can build a bicycle to whatever specification for any type of rider, you just won't be able to build something is ultra-light, ultra durable / reliable, AND cheap! The classic engineering triangle. Also as far as groupsets, Shimano and SRAM are the most popular. Most of what Shimano offers is high quality and just works, although a number of people have had issues with their lightweight Hallow-tech cranksets failing. SRAM has good stuff too and they are much much faster at innovating and bringing products to market.
Also 50 mph...I hope you meant 50 kph on the flats :) which is still very very fast. If 50 mph that would be super dope ;D
Consider the max power effort for veteran sprinter André Greipel (Lotto-Soudal), as he raced to victory on stage six of the Tour Down Under, beating home favourite Caleb Ewan (Mitchelton-Scott). The German hit an incredible 1903w as he reached a peak speed of 76.8kmh averaging in 1,326w in the entire sprint. That is 47 mph!!!
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/racing/data-reveals-the-most-powerful-sprints-of-2018-and-the-numbers-are-pretty-mind-blowing-359140
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Just some people that have monies go for full carbon, low weight, Di2 groupsets etc. to show off at group rides to their buddies and I feel that they're missing the point. People are driven by outer factors and are sometimes more into the bling and less into the activity itself.
I'm always confused by the people who buy the lightest, most aero, bike they can afford to 'get fit'. They'd get fitter quicker if they had a heavier bike (more effort for less miles) and they'd have money to spend in the extra time too!
I have a story about two dudes who got new bikes to get fit. One dude bought a fancy pants super light, aero bike, the other got a cheaper, heavier bike with the idea that the crap bike results in him getting a better workout. Turns out that dude who got the fancy bike rode all the time because the riding experience of the fancy bike was wonderful, while the other dude barely rode his bike because it was a piece of **** to ride and he hated it.
Guess who got fitter?
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No. I road that bike about 20,000 miles. I did ride competitively. Ironman and stuff. I used to be very serious about fitness. I won money and prizes. So it was more of an investment. Plus if you are going to put on that many miles, you would hopefully be able to obtain serious equipment. The $25K Treks today I do not quite understand. I guess they are an upper bracket brand now or something. Ernesto Colnago is long gone. Those just have his name now. I hear they are nowhere near the quality of the ones he hand made. As far as Groupos, I guess Shimano is the best now. People for the most part do not even mess with sew up tires anymore. Things have changed. I honestly used to be able to ride that bike 50 miles per hour on flat ground. I knew Greg Lemond. So I took it seriously. I think it was justified. It is not like I road around the block on weekends.
Unless you were drafting behind a truck or was an elite pro in Europe, I call BS on the 50 mph claim.
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got my new wheels put on :)
Cannondale CAAD optimo w/ pro-lite bracciano A42Ws
(https://i.imgur.com/TPLfTJU.jpg)
my old 1984 trek that got me into cycling, used to use this for workouts and such but it’s been relegated to my grocery getter and city cruiser
(https://i.imgur.com/0LsGcAX.jpg)
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I have a story about two dudes who got new bikes to get fit. One dude bought a fancy pants super light, aero bike, the other got a cheaper, heavier bike with the idea that the crap bike results in him getting a better workout. Turns out that dude who got the fancy bike rode all the time because the riding experience of the fancy bike was wonderful, while the other dude barely rode his bike because it was a piece of **** to ride and he hated it.
Guess who got fitter?
It sounds like the bike is to blame but unless you get lucky and pick a way of exercising you enjoy (sounds like aero guy did) you have to put in time doing something you don't enjoy to get the results. At the end of the day cheap guy just didn't want it enough and that's why he failed, whatever was '****' about the bike could have been fixed (assuming it wasn't really poorly fitting or totally inappropriate for the intended use) with plenty of change from super light aero budget.
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got my new wheels put on :)
Cannondale CAAD optimo w/ pro-lite bracciano A42Ws
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/TPLfTJU.jpg)
my old 1984 trek that got me into cycling, used to use this for workouts and such but it’s been relegated to my grocery getter and city cruiser
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/0LsGcAX.jpg)
That shifter looks like a scary intro to cycling!
Really confused by your new wheels - 19mm rims with tiny tyres? Maybe road rims are measured external... Looks very fast anyway :thumb:
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got my new wheels put on :)
Cannondale CAAD optimo w/ pro-lite bracciano A42Ws
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/TPLfTJU.jpg)
my old 1984 trek that got me into cycling, used to use this for workouts and such but it’s been relegated to my grocery getter and city cruiser
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/0LsGcAX.jpg)
That shifter looks like a scary intro to cycling!
Really confused by your new wheels - 19mm rims with tiny tyres? Maybe road rims are measured external... Looks very fast anyway :thumb:
Thanks!
When I bought the Trek I tried to keep it in the same gear and use my momentum to get up the hill because I couldn't shift consistently the first week I had it :p
Needs some work and and i am considering doing an entire tear down and repaint it. since i have two bikes i don't need to worry about rushing it to get back out.
LOL yea about the tires. I thought that my old (stock cannondale) wheels were the same width as the new ones I just got, and they were on the 23c tires. but they were 19 external and the new ones are 24 external. so I really should pick up some 25c tires, but she rides still rides fine and they are soooo much smoother and faster than the stock wheels even with the 23 tires so ill stick with them for a little bit atleast. luckily new tires are pretty cheap.
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The truth is when I hit that number I was indeed drafting behind a truck. Often, holding onto it. As usual walie is in fact not so stupid after all. I got that number on the handle bar computer. Ordinarily the fastest I could go on flat ground in the open is about half that. I am not sure why I felt the need to brag like that but I apologize. Also I "met" Greg Lemond. I did not "know" him. I figured I better be honest here.
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The truth is when I hit that number I was indeed drafting behind a truck. Often, holding onto it. As usual walie is in fact not so stupid after all. I got that number on the handle bar computer. Ordinarily the fastest I could go on flat ground in the open is about half that. I am not sure why I felt the need to brag like that but I apologize. Also I "met" Greg Lemond. I did not "know" him. I figured I better be honest here.
That's still pretty badass though. It takes some balls to do something like that. Like the fastest I've gone (multiple occasions) was 40 mph or so while flying downhill and that 40 mph mark was only because I was using brakes to bleed off a little speed otherwise would have been going faster . :eek: That's plenty fast thank you very much. I haven't met anyone famous. Last year I did sign up for a century ride for charity which featured some pro cyclists but I ended up with an injury just before that ride.
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got my new wheels put on :)
Cannondale CAAD optimo w/ pro-lite bracciano A42Ws
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/TPLfTJU.jpg)
my old 1984 trek that got me into cycling, used to use this for workouts and such but it’s been relegated to my grocery getter and city cruiser
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/0LsGcAX.jpg)
That shifter looks like a scary intro to cycling!
Really confused by your new wheels - 19mm rims with tiny tyres? Maybe road rims are measured external... Looks very fast anyway :thumb:
My first road bike had downtube shifters just like this! Kind of sketchy but it works.
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Downtube shifters for long road rides are fine, they're only a bit of an issue if you're doing city commuting with them, as you have to constantly shift whist riding in traffic. Definitely took a little while to get used to though.
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When I bought the Trek I tried to keep it in the same gear and use my momentum to get up the hill because I couldn't shift consistently the first week I had it :p
Needs some work and and i am considering doing an entire tear down and repaint it. since i have two bikes i don't need to worry about rushing it to get back out.
LOL yea about the tires. I thought that my old (stock cannondale) wheels were the same width as the new ones I just got, and they were on the 23c tires. but they were 19 external and the new ones are 24 external. so I really should pick up some 25c tires, but she rides still rides fine and they are soooo much smoother and faster than the stock wheels even with the 23 tires so ill stick with them for a little bit atleast. luckily new tires are pretty cheap.
Of course, friction as well as sketchy position. Hills when you're pedalling hard are not the time to take your hand off the bars and reach down let alone to carefully tweak! And as jamster mentioned not great for breaking hard and being ready to pull away at traffic lights. I used 9 speed friction on bar end shifters for a while and that was fine, though I was happy to abuse a shiftmate and get it indexed for laziness.
I'm no expert on skinny slick tyres but my bike (gravel-ish) came with 17mm internal rims and 35s, I then had 19mm rims with 42s and now 25mm with 50ish - in each case around double. Can't you at least fit 28s? I'm sure you'd notice the comfort and bigger diameter is faster too. And they'd actually stick out past your nice rims and offer a little protection...
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I'm no expert on skinny slick tyres but my bike (gravel-ish) came with 17mm internal rims and 35s, I then had 19mm rims with 42s and now 25mm with 50ish - in each case around double. Can't you at least fit 28s? I'm sure you'd notice the comfort and bigger diameter is faster too. And they'd actually stick out past your nice rims and offer a little protection...
Neither am i apparently :p i certainly have the frame clearance for 25s and probably 28s. maybe that’s why those 23s were such a ***** to fit lol
luckily the roads i ride around here are pretty smooth. took it out for a spin and can’t get enough of that new freehub click :D
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All road bikes have shifters on the frame. You are talking about dirt bikes?
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Most road bikes come with shifters integrated in the break levers, if wikipedia is to be believed Shimano first did this in 1990, not sure about anyone else. Seems it has been a while since you rode!
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There's definitely some weird semantic confusion here. Anything vaguely current has shifters on the brake levers. Maybe derailleurs?
And "dirt bikes" have internal combustion engines.
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There's definitely some weird semantic confusion here. Anything vaguely current has shifters on the brake levers. Maybe derailleurs?
And "dirt bikes" have internal combustion engines.
A buddy of mine put bar end shifters on his 'bar bike'. My vintage steel bike has bar ends but I haven't rode it enough to be proficient. Definitely popular still with touring setups. Simple and reliable.
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There's definitely some weird semantic confusion here. Anything vaguely current has shifters on the brake levers. Maybe derailleurs?
And "dirt bikes" have internal combustion engines.
A buddy of mine put bar end shifters on his 'bar bike'. My vintage steel bike has bar ends but I haven't rode it enough to be proficient. Definitely popular still with touring setups. Simple and reliable.
I've always wanted to try aerobars with bar end shifters, but I've never been into tri gear or even that seriously into road bikes. Most my experience is MTB and a brief spell with long distance touring.
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I've always wanted to try aerobars with bar end shifters, but I've never been into tri gear or even that seriously into road bikes. Most my experience is MTB and a brief spell with long distance touring.
Or with a TT bike setup shifting can be as simple as pressing a button with electronic shifting.
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I've always wanted to try aerobars with bar end shifters, but I've never been into tri gear or even that seriously into road bikes. Most my experience is MTB and a brief spell with long distance touring.
Or with a TT bike setup shifting can be as simple as pressing a button with electronic shifting.
Electronic shifting was a great development for tri/TT bikes, able to shift gears wether on the aerobars or bullhorns.
Also an electronic front derailleur sounds so good.
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I had bar ends on my drop bars, first setup friction then indexed. I much prefer them to the combined levers and only switched away because the Nuvinci hub has stupid long cable pull like a Rohloff so I'm now on grip shift which takes middle spot in my preferences. It should be noted I use drops almost exclusively, if you don't they will be nearly as bad as frame mounted with needing to take your hand off.
Edit: realised I didn't say why - it's because you can only chage a couple of gears in one movement vs all of them in bar end and maybe half on grip shift.
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Anyone train with a power meter? I would love too, and the thing is I wouldn't mind spending the money on one, I would probably get the assioma pedal power meter, but that means I'd also need to buy a bike computer to actually use the data, so looking at $1k+ to even get started.
Until then I'll just keep writing my workouts on a sticky note taped to the stem and using perceived exertion :rolleyes:
More
(https://i.imgur.com/Ko2HCqR.jpg)
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Have heard that electronic shifting is incredible, but personally have no interest in electronics on a bike beyond a cheap cycle computer and lights.
On the other hand, internal geared hubs are the nuts. Really good idea for mountain bikes- you can change through the range instantly, and it reduces the number of fragile and exposed parts tacked onto the frame.
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Have these same ones for a couple of years and they're super nice! So easy to remove on those sunny days when you know you don't need'em and just as easy to put back on in the morning before work when you know it'll rain. Other mudguards may offer more "dry zone coverage" but rarely they are this slick indeed!
Yeah the quick release sort of nature they have was the main selling point :cool:
Switching my wheels around along with fixed mudguards would have been a super hassle :confused:
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Anyone train with a power meter? I would love too, and the thing is I wouldn't mind spending the money on one, I would probably get the assioma pedal power meter, but that means I'd also need to buy a bike computer to actually use the data, so looking at $1k+ to even get started.
Until then I'll just keep writing my workouts on a sticky note taped to the stem and using perceived exertion :rolleyes:
More
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Ko2HCqR.jpg)
You might find what you want here for less: https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?category=45 A bike computer to show stats and planned routes is pretty handy and saves your phone from sweat and mud and battery drain. I'd love a crankset with power meter too.
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Anyone train with a power meter? I would love too, and the thing is I wouldn't mind spending the money on one, I would probably get the assioma pedal power meter, but that means I'd also need to buy a bike computer to actually use the data, so looking at $1k+ to even get started.
Until then I'll just keep writing my workouts on a sticky note taped to the stem and using perceived exertion :rolleyes:
More
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Ko2HCqR.jpg)
I was riding with a power meter last summer. It was interesting to look at the data on Strava. I honestly wasn't using the power meter with any level of discipline like someone serious about training. I did like looking at the numbers and seeing how much power I was exerting at different levels of perceived effort. I don't take things serious enough to the point where I need a coach or a prescribed training plan and I just like riding however I like to ride at any given moment. A bike computer is a handy tool for a wide variety of riders. Most people buy one over a power meter or at the very least buy a bike computer before a power meter although you do have to watch out for compatibility between power meters and bike computers. I would honestly be hesitant about dropping that much dough on a toy but if you do, go all the way and learn about structured training, read books on training, subscribe to training software like Trainer Road (they have great training plans), and get a cycling coach to help you. If you have a ton of time to ride you will get stronger with time in the saddle, especially riding up those hills. If you don't have as much time to train then I would say a power meter or smart trainer will help you really maximize your available time with a proper training plan of course.
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Anyone train with a power meter? I would love too, and the thing is I wouldn't mind spending the money on one, I would probably get the assioma pedal power meter, but that means I'd also need to buy a bike computer to actually use the data, so looking at $1k+ to even get started.
Until then I'll just keep writing my workouts on a sticky note taped to the stem and using perceived exertion :rolleyes:
More
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Ko2HCqR.jpg)
I was riding with a power meter last summer. It was interesting to look at the data on Strava. I honestly wasn't using the power meter with any level of discipline like someone serious about training. I did like looking at the numbers and seeing how much power I was exerting at different levels of perceived effort. I don't take things serious enough to the point where I need a coach or a prescribed training plan and I just like riding however I like to ride at any given moment. A bike computer is a handy tool for a wide variety of riders. Most people buy one over a power meter or at the very least buy a bike computer before a power meter although you do have to watch out for compatibility between power meters and bike computers. I would honestly be hesitant about dropping that much dough on a toy but if you do, go all the way and learn about structured training, read books on training, subscribe to training software like Trainer Road (they have great training plans), and get a cycling coach to help you. If you have a ton of time to ride you will get stronger with time in the saddle, especially riding up those hills. If you don't have as much time to train then I would say a power meter or smart trainer will help you really maximize your available time with a proper training plan of course.
thanks for the write up and your experience!
i am pretty experienced with training/training plans, etc.... but all for running since i used to race the 5k in school.
i’ve actually been doing a ton of learning in regards to cycling training since it is a good bit different then what i am used to - and i still have a ton to learn. it’s really cool and i am enjoying it, as well as tiring myself out riding :eek:
I think you made a good point about getting a cycling computer first since that has a much wider range of applications.
i also want to be careful to not lose track of why i bought my first road bike a few years ago it’s a ton of fun and freeing to just get out and ride :)
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Anyone train with a power meter? I would love too, and the thing is I wouldn't mind spending the money on one, I would probably get the assioma pedal power meter, but that means I'd also need to buy a bike computer to actually use the data, so looking at $1k+ to even get started.
Until then I'll just keep writing my workouts on a sticky note taped to the stem and using perceived exertion :rolleyes:
More
Show Image
(https://i.imgur.com/Ko2HCqR.jpg)
Yes I have one on my tri-bike. Its an excellent tool to use for optimal training, but like all tools, you have to use it properly (ie. take a fitness test first to establish your power zones) in order to use it to its full potential.
Its also helps in pacing yourself so that you don't blow yourself up too soon.
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PSA just in case anyone's tempted to try a Nuvinci gear hub - the shifter had may as well be made of glass for the amount of grip it offers a bare hand in light rain. I am disappointed as I've enjoyed it for the past couple of months but this pretty much kills it. Unless I can invent a cable pull multiplier to use with bar ends...
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Every road bike I ever had had the shifters on the down tube. These are pro road bikes though. If you are up right you cut into the wind and slow down. You have to reach all the way down to shift. plus brakes are "hooded" no extensions. The seat is a sliver. these are not comfort machines.
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Every road bike I ever had had the shifters on the down tube. These are pro road bikes though. If you are up right you cut into the wind and slow down. You have to reach all the way down to shift. plus brakes are "hooded" no extensions.
What on earth are you talking about- can you show a photo?
Pro riders use integrated shifters just like anyone else. If pro riders were all using downtube shifters for some bizarre reason, half the lycra-crad amateur crowd would be doing the same because fashion is such a big deal in cycling. Do you really think that when those guys are absolutely hammering it, they're going to reach down to their knees to fiddle around with 1980s shifting tech?
Here are a load of shifter setups from recent TdF bikes. You can see the paddles built into the brake levers, or in one case there's electronic shift buttons glued to handlebar next to the stem.
https://road.cc/content/tech-news/226185-tour-tech-2017-shifters-pros-are-using
The seat is a sliver. these are not comfort machines.
I'm fairly sure everyone here knows what a road saddle looks like. And they are called saddles. Only non-riders refer to them as 'seats'. UCI weight rules have meant that for at least the past decade, the idea of having to desperately save weight on a road bike is no longer an issue. Some pros have ridden with metal weights glued to their top tubes to bring them into regulation weight.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_duzjJ0yJ9SA/TSiQ8hXsvGI/AAAAAAAAHvw/GMxQYG44xNY/s320/CH2961.jpg)
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I finally got a cassette tool last week and was able to clean my cassette and also fix my shifting. I went for a ride today, and it was great - no sound while pedaling and everything shifted perfectly with a small exception. When shifting to the third chain ring, sometimes the shifter is "dead" the first time and I have to push it a second time for there to be any tension on the cable. It's still happening after I adjusted things, so I'm not sure what's causing that. It's hard to investigate since it's not consistent.
I do find the term saddle odd in reference to bicycles. It is attached to the seatpost which fits into the seat tube.
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I do find the term saddle odd in reference to bicycles. It is attached to the seatpost which fits into the seat tube.
A seat supports all your weight, on a bike (just like a horse) part of your weight is on your feet so it's a saddle. Why then a seat post and tube? Good question!
As to your shifting problem is it a trim position? These are part moves to improve chainline, though middle ring seems a strange place to have one. Or could it be the button? How many first-second shifts have you done reliably?
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Every road bike I ever had had the shifters on the down tube. These are pro road bikes though. If you are up right you cut into the wind and slow down. You have to reach all the way down to shift. plus brakes are "hooded" no extensions. The seat is a sliver. these are not comfort machines.
lol dude, maybe when bull****ting stick to the topics you know.
Also maybe get a bike that's not from the 80s
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I do find the term saddle odd in reference to bicycles. It is attached to the seatpost which fits into the seat tube.
A seat supports all your weight, on a bike (just like a horse) part of your weight is on your feet so it's a saddle.
Wow, that explanation was impressive.
Every road bike I ever had had the shifters on the down tube.
That was in the 80's, wasn't it? Modern road bikes don't have such shifters.
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took my first real spill today.
Doing a tempo workout early this morning and the roads were still a little damp from last nights storm. I was being cautious but i came up on a rough section of road around a curve and just lost traction over some of the bumbs and the bike slid out from under me.
Road rash all along my left side, ripped my favorite jersey and bibs and busted up my brake hood. I don't think there are any mechanical problems with the bike but still might swing by the shop later and have them give it a once over to be safe. scraped the **** out of my brand new rims which im pretty blown about, but don't think theres any real damage to the rim brake track.
Pretty blown since i just threw in the towel on the workout, and felt like an idiot for not being more careful and for the damage to my bike + clothes.
Lesson learned I guess
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took my first real spill today.
Doing a tempo workout early this morning and the roads were still a little damp from last nights storm. I was being cautious but i came up on a rough section of road around a curve and just lost traction over some of the bumbs and the bike slid out from under me.
Road rash all along my left side, ripped my favorite jersey and bibs and busted up my brake hood. I don't think there are any mechanical problems with the bike but still might swing by the shop later and have them give it a once over to be safe. scraped the **** out of my brand new rims which im pretty blown about, but don't think theres any real damage to the rim brake track.
Pretty blown since i just threw in the towel on the workout, and felt like an idiot for not being more careful and for the damage to my bike + clothes.
Lesson learned I guess
Sorry to hear about the spill. Get some Tegaderm to treat the road rash, best thing you can use.
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I do find the term saddle odd in reference to bicycles. It is attached to the seatpost which fits into the seat tube.
A seat supports all your weight, on a bike (just like a horse) part of your weight is on your feet so it's a saddle. Why then a seat post and tube? Good question!
As to your shifting problem is it a trim position? These are part moves to improve chainline, though middle ring seems a strange place to have one. Or could it be the button? How many first-second shifts have you done reliably?
1. That's a great explanation of a saddle. I'd never heard that before, but it makes sense.
2. I may sound dumb, but I'd never heard of trimming before. I don't think my shifters have a trim position (there's no midway index point as I see in videos on the topic). My bike is a 2005 Giant OCR 3, so maybe my tech is old/cheap enough not to have it (?). I don't have any problems at all shifting from chain ring 1 to 2 or downshifting from any gear. It's only upshifting from 2 to 3 (outermost ring) that causes this issue, and it happens only intermittently. It was happening before I did any maintenance, so my tuning didn't improve or worsen the issue.
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I may sound dumb, but I'd never heard of trimming before. I don't think my shifters have a trim position (there's no midway index point as I see in videos on the topic). My bike is a 2005 Giant OCR 3, so maybe my tech is old/cheap enough not to have it (?). I don't have any problems at all shifting from chain ring 1 to 2 or downshifting from any gear. It's only upshifting from 2 to 3 (outermost ring) that causes this issue, and it happens only intermittently. It was happening before I did any maintenance, so my tuning didn't improve or worsen the issue.
Don't know who's stupid, I read it as you having DI2! I'm no expert as to when or at what level trim arrived, just aware it exists.
How can the cable not always have tension with traditional shifting... pretty sure it can't, other than if you're on the low stop which you can't be in the middle ring. Maybe the clutch mechanism in the shifter doesn't engage? That would make it really easy to move, the opposite of a dead person but maybe how you'd describe a dead gear lever.
Sorry to hear of your crash tentboy, wish I was wrong about needing the fatter tyres to protect the rims :(
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Don't know who's stupid, I read it as you having DI2! I'm no expert as to when or at what level trim arrived, just aware it exists.
How can the cable not always have tension with traditional shifting... pretty sure it can't, other than if you're on the low stop which you can't be in the middle ring. Maybe the clutch mechanism in the shifter doesn't engage? That would make it really easy to move, the opposite of a dead person but maybe how you'd describe a dead gear lever.
Sorry to hear of your crash tentboy, wish I was wrong about needing the fatter tyres to protect the rims :(
I actually thought of your comment when i was looking at them! ha. even with 25s i think theyd have gotten a little dinged up cuz the bike slid across a pretty bumpy part of the road and the uneven surface probably ate them up (along with my thigh) but you are def right. my new tires were in the mail just not here soon enough.
Took it to the shop and they filed it down a little so no rough edges rub against the brake pad but he said its nothing to worry about luckily. Really happy nothing more serious happened to myself/bike
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I purchased my first road bike . It is incredibly light , so much so that there was a getting used to period. Also the shifting is intimidating at first but very easy to use after lap around the neighborhood. The front tire REFUSES to hold air so just be aware that you should buy a new bike tube when you purchase a bike also make sure you look over and adjust your brakes ! They don’t come ready to go after the box but the instructions do tell you how to manipulate them so that they work.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91lM8O2qBeL.jpg)