Learning Dvorak has been a great experience for me, but YMMV.
I started out with blank keycaps on a WASD CODE V2 keyboard set to hardware-Dvorak mode. The blank keycaps increase the learning curve quite a bit, but in the end, I feel like they were super helpful. I've been typing Dvorak for almost 3 years now and rarely have to look down at a keyboard. Dvorak legends are nice, but the truth is I only want them for vanity - I definitely don't need them. Most keyboards I type Dvorak on now days all have Qwerty legends, and they don't mess me up at all. I owe that to starting out with blank keycaps. At least, if you're starting out, I recommend using blank keycaps on the alpha keys & keeping your modifier keys labeled.
All I used to train myself was GNU Typist. After the first week, I had completed all of the Dvorak courses, and had basically memorized all I needed to know. It's not hard to memorize where each letter is in relation to your fingers on the home row. The hard part is the muscle memory. Honestly for the first month it took me 10x longer to write basic emails because even though I knew where all the letters were supposed to be, I literally had to think about it each time I went to type anything. It took a few months to get back to 60 WPM. I also stuck with it - didn't switch back to Qwerty for anything serious besides entering in a few passwords, games, etc. My productivity took a hit in the beginning and it was super frustrating at times, especially when engaging in real-time chats & hot email threads.
Personally, I feel like Dvorak is easier to type with than Qwerty. I also suspect that it is easier to type with than Colemak. I mean, how difficult can it be when you have almost every vowel underneath your left hand's fingers, with the other two being just one key away? When I would hear people say that Dvorak is harder, I generally didn't believe them, and thought that maybe they didn't stick with it for long enough, or maybe didn't use an effective learning strategy/tool, etc. I have sincerely believed that if one applies themselves, then they will excel with it, and even find it super comfortable to use. Recently, however, my views have changed, not about ease of typing, but in regards to shortcuts.
(Background: For several years I have had what's easiest to describe as an issue with my right shoulder, so about 4 years now have been trying to become more ambidextrous in various things. One of the things I do, which I can do easily since I don't game much, is primarily use my left hand for mouse movement. I use trackballs most of the time now, but back when I was learning Dvorak, it was a simple mouse that wasn't sculpted in a way to favor any particular hand (i.e., ambidextrous). On top of that, I also use business-style laptops A LOT which all feature some variaton of the IBM/Lenovo TrackPoint mouse, which is also pretty much ambidextrous. The only time I ever use a right hand for mouse operation is when I'm occasionally gaming, which also happens to be when I switch back to Qwerty too.)
Here's what I overlooked: On a Qwerty row-staggered board, the Z (undo), X (cut), C (copy), and V (paste) keys are all easy to reach with your left hand. On a row-staggered Dvorak board, these keys are spaced apart from each other, but still easy to hit all with your right hand. If you are like most people and use your right hand to operate your mouse, then using these shortcuts with Dvorak is probably going to be a giant PITA. If you're weird like me, and are using either a TrackPoint or left-handed mouse, then you probably won't even notice an issue. As much as I love Dvorak, I have to admit that this must be the nail in the coffin for a lot of people's opinion of it. Also note that I said "row-staggered Dvorak board" - it's a little further to reach when the board ortho or column-staggered; and admittedly awkward when the board is a split one.
Placement of the Z, X, C, and V keys optimized for right-hand mouse usage is not just a benefit of Qwerty, but also Colemak & Colemak variants too. Same goes for the Mac-oriented Workman layout, the elaborate German/English-oriented Neo layout, fully-optimized Carpal X, and probably others too.
Regardless of what layout you decide to go with, there is one advantage that you'll gain which I think is very important. Most of us start out hunting and pecking with Qwerty. We tend to learn poor typing habits in the beginning and a small percentage of us go on to learn correct touch typing techniques. Learning the techniques is different however from using them in practice, especially when years of hard-to-drop habits come creeping back. Especially if you start out learning with blank keycaps, whatever layout it ends up being, you will be doing probably the most significant thing you've ever done to drop any bad habits that you may have picked up in your Qwerty days. Unless you have been really serious in your Qwerty touch typing discipline, you will probably stand to gain a huge improvement.
Also, the week after I started typing in Dvorak, everything I typed out here would probably have taken a couple hours to type out.