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geekhack Community => Input Devices => Topic started by: bluecar5556 on Tue, 23 August 2011, 23:04:38
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Note: Puncturing the label (between Underwriters Laboratory and 10 circle arrow symbols) to reach Philips screw will void your warranty and I am not responsible with what you do with this information, including handling razorblades with your bare hands which I do not condone, it is what I had on hand at the moment. If you have a question, feel free to PM me or leave a reply.
Parts required:
Non-braided USB cable ($9 from eBay, here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-High-Quality-USB-cable-USB-mouse-Line-For-Logitech-G500-G5-mouse-/171269619474?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e076ff12))
-or-
Obtain a mouse USB cable with matching connector as original. You may take apart a defunked mouse and see if the PCB connector is the same. Double check the pinout is the same!
-or the crude method-
Male USB cable salvaged off something and splice wires to G5 USB cable connector. "Find one with thin plastic sheathing, thick ones will be too stiff for mice, IMO"
*Optional - Replacement Teflon feet (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2054436.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xlogitech+g5+mouse+feet&_nkw=logitech+g5+mouse+feet&_sacat=0&_from=R40) to ensure optimal results, remove all glue residue and debris from mouse thoroughly with 90% alcohol and a toothbrush, the surface must be flat.
*See step 5.5 pinout image below to ensure the correct wires are spliced if you plan to go that route.
Tools required:
Small Philips screwdriver (#0 Philips, very small)
Plastic spudgers or you could use a small flat-head screwdriver or fingernails.
Blow dryer "only required if you plan to reuse the teflon feet as heating them before removal will yield better stickyness.
Wax paper "again only required if you plan to reuse the feet, place them sticky side down on waxy side of paper to preserve stickyness or you could place the feet on a sharp edge being careful not to ruin the glue.
Step 0: Say hello to the Logitech G5 mouse in all its glory, except for the hideous cable sheathing.
(http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/599/88453159.jpg)
Step 1: Remove four (4) screws underneath two teflon feet, DO NOT remove the smallest foot in the middle as there is not a screw under it. The last screw is located behind rectangle label on bottom of mouse, directly above the underwriters laboratory symbol, just stab at it with your philips screwdriver and you will punch through.
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/4344/49815001.jpg)
Step 2: Push USB cable towards bottom of mouse to SEPARATE halves, ;)
(http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/1402/11526139.jpg)
Step 2.5: When connector is visible, stop separating halves, circled in image.
(http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7377/63540378.jpg)
Step 3: Disconnect connector on left side of mouse.
(http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/2254/49659851.jpg)
Step 3.5 Halves separated
(http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/2562/22609341.jpg)
Step 4: Remove weighted tray module screw than remove tray to get room to work.
(http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/272/67320229.jpg)
Step 4.5: Lift white latch on ribbon cable away from mouse and pull cable straight out to remove.
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/3330/55118253.jpg)
Step 5: Remove USB cable connector
(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9518/50799716.jpg)
Step 5.5: USB connector pinout
(http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3228/23168579.jpg)
Step 6: Left/right omron switch specs in case they need to be replaced.
(http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/1375/omronswitchspecs.jpg)
2X OMRON Microswitch D2FC-F-7N (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-OMRON-Micro-Switch-Microswitch-D2FC-F-7N-Mouse-/270708581609)
Digikey SW502-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SW502-ND)
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This is great. I need to do this on my Razer Naga although I don't really know how to get inside it without breaking it. I think this happens with all Razer mice?
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My Logitech G5 had a sheathing "hernia" and had to be replaced. Must have something to do with manufacturers twist-tying the cable every few inches, creating weak spots. The kinks were always evident and nothing I did remedied the situation, except replacing it all together.
After finding this eBay auction, I felt an incentive to show people how to take G5's apart with confidence. They aren't the cheapest mice on the market.
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this is great help!!!! i got the same problem and i opend my mouse with this help. and did you bluecar5556 buy this logitech g5 cable on ebay becuse i saw it and some people dont deliver. and i am really greatfull of your help :)
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uh.. dont use an x-acto knife to disconnect tiny plugs or flatcables. Use the right tools for the right job.
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the right tool, btw, is a nylon spudger
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Ever dropped a touchscreen phone and replaced the digitizer/LCD glass? Then you are probably familiar with these ole' plastic spudgers.
A pair of tweezers can get the connector rockin' or just use your fingernails.
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I opened up a random mouse I had lying around (http://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826575001) and the cable was a direct swap. Try opening the old mouse before just cutting the cable to splice it!
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Yes, most mice cables use the same type of plug on the PCB-side. Its when mice have cable holders molded into the cable when it gets tricky, replacing it with a regular cable will make it all wobbly...
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Will this same cable work with G500? how about G9x or G9?
Man these cables are the main source of failure nowdays. I could probably buy them in bulk I go through so many. I also have the problems with cable hernias on so many mice. I hate the braiding that causes more problems.
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yes do the G5 and the G500 have the same plug? I am pretty attached to my old G5 that I got at quake-con years and years ago, but the only cable i see for sell on ebay is for the G500
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It seems every braided cable I have eventually gets these types of "hernias" that eventually lead to cord kinks... ANNOYing!
Very awesome guide, thanks!
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My 4 or 5 yr old logitech g5's cable braiding has worn off quite a bit. Hopefully I dont run into problems with knots or anything, I dont want to accidentally kill my g5 by opening it.
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Most every logi product i've owned (G15 x2, G5, G500, Several headsets of varying quality/cost, I was so wired up you would have thought I was the logitech poster boy.) have all had cable issues calling for a warrantied swap, replacement of the cord or ended up in the garbage can. After 2 failed mice and 2 failed keyboards I picked up a Deathadder and have been happy since.
I think I had a webcam that obsoleted before the cord wore out, kudos logitech.
EDIT: Today a customer brought in a G510 with a "broken cord" and i smirked, turned out the cat chewed on it though.
The ironing is delicious
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Hmm I wonder if since many of the mice use the same connector if they would sell a whole usb cable + connector online.
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I am very thankful for this instruction. Yesterday I repaired my G5.
(http://oi41.tinypic.com/27wx2k0.jpg)
(http://oi43.tinypic.com/2qdnc5f.jpg)
(http://oi43.tinypic.com/2h3bort.jpg)
(http://oi43.tinypic.com/qyixhs.jpg)
(http://oi40.tinypic.com/rmiihk.jpg)
(http://oi42.tinypic.com/2hr0e2c.jpg)
(http://oi44.tinypic.com/2vanmdf.jpg)