Case name | Compatible | Notes |
Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid | Yes | Tested (https://i.imgur.com/aLEYaaO.jpg) |
Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid-i | NO | Different mounting supports (http://www.modders-inc.com/wp-content/uploads/image//2014/05/a232.jpg) |
GANSS G.S 87 | Possible | Untested but looks identical (https://www.qoo10.sg/item/MECHANICAL-KEYBOARD-GANSS-G-S-87-CHERRY-MX-GREEN-SWITCH/431608462?__ar=Y) to the Filco Majestouch 2 |
Filco Majestouch 1 | Possible | Untested but should be identical to the Majestouch 2 |
Filco Majestouch 2 | Yes | Tested (https://i.imgur.com/t5veF4A.jpg) |
Filco Zero | Possible | Untested but should be identical to the Majestouch 2 |
iKBC G87 | NO | Different mounting supports (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79462.0) |
KBParadise V80 | Possible | Untested but looks identical (https://youtu.be/AveReuw_C4s?t=1m16s) to the Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid |
KUL ES-87 | NO | Different mounting supports (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59116.0) |
Norbatouch | NO | Doesn't support the QFR (https://shop.norbauer.com/products/cnc-aluminum-case-for-cooler-master-tkl-boards-round-2-5) |
WASD V2 TKL | Possible | Untested but looks identical (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68820.0) to the Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid |
YMDK (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-Anodized-Aluminum-Case-Shell-For-Filco-87-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Including-Key-line-separation/32617566709.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.XNTSTm&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10059_10340_10314_10184_10341_10534_100031_10084_10604_10083_10103_10304_10307_10302_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=cf492fb8-4b19-410e-9213-32a35a6461dd-0&algo_pvid=cf492fb8-4b19-410e-9213-32a35a6461dd&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0) CNC Case | Yes | Tested by a fellow GHer whom I provided with an ealier revision of the PCB |
Quantity | Description | Manufacturer part number | Symbol |
1 | XMMX PCB | ||
1 | Atmel ATmega32u4 | ATMEGA32U4-AU | U1 |
1 | 16MHz crystal | X322516MOB4SI | X1 |
2 | 22pf capacitor | CL21C220JBANNNC | C1, C2 |
96 | 1N4148 diode | 1N4148W (1N4148WS would also fit) | D1 to D96 |
2 | 22 Ohm resistor | 0805W8J0220T5E | R1, R2 |
1 | 1 kOhm resistor | 0805W8F1001T5E | R5 |
3 | 1uF capacitor | CL21F105ZOFNNNE | C3 to C7 |
5 | 0.1uF capacitor | 0805F104M500NT | C8 to C10 |
1 | 16 pins USB type-C SMD connector | TYPE-C16PIN (https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1912111437_SHOU-HAN-TYPE-C16PIN_C393939.pdf) |
If you made this compatible with through-hole diodes and a CNT-013 Arduino Micro or Teensy 2.0 (Arduino is much cheaper) this would be a lot easier and cheaper for people to use.I see what you mean but please understand that these are PCBs I make for myself and then release opensource hoping that it could be useful to someone else out there.
consider adding support for Alps-style stepped caps lock.Is that different from a MX stepped caps lock? If not, it's already supported.
I see what you mean but please understand that these are PCBs I make for myself and then release opensource hoping that it could be useful to someone else out there.
I, for one, have no interest in such modifications but the source is open to anyone for this very purpose.
I completely understand. Thanks for the clarification, I'll chuck it to my PCB designer friend and see what he can do :D
Is that different from a MX stepped caps lock? If not, it's already supported.
Yeah, it's a bit different. Take a look at this:I doubt I can fit three caps lock pads together like that but I'll consider it.
(Attachment Link)
If you made this compatible with through-hole diodes and a CNT-013 Arduino Micro or Teensy 2.0 (Arduino is much cheaper) this would be a lot easier and cheaper for people to use. I for one would love this board but I can't solder SMD :(
Also, for the next revision, consider adding support for Alps-style stepped caps lock. That would open up a lot more keycap compatibility for those of us who want to use this with Alps switches.
could you try a case from CM Storm Quickfire TK? Interested to see a numpad instead a normal TKL layout one.The Quickfire TK has an additional column, the XMMX won't just fit. Sorry.
I see what you mean but please understand that these are PCBs I make for myself and then release opensource hoping that it could be useful to someone else out there.
I, for one, have no interest in such modifications but the source is open to anyone for this very purpose.
I completely understand. Thanks for the clarification, I'll chuck it to my PCB designer friend and see what he can do :D
Is that different from a MX stepped caps lock? If not, it's already supported.
Yeah, it's a bit different. Take a look at this:
(Attachment Link)
If you want to include all 3 mounts for caps(1.25, 1.5, and 1.75), I suggest forgoing in-switch leds and having the 1.5 mount upside down in place of the leds. The led then relocate toward the right edge of the cap.I though of this as the only possible solution as well, and I won't then implement it.
a case made by Vortex designed to fit into a filco I think.That case looks similar to the YMD CNC case (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-Anodized-Aluminum-Case-Shell-For-Filco-87-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Including-Key-line-separation/32617566709.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.XNTSTm&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10059_10340_10314_10184_10341_10534_100031_10084_10604_10083_10103_10304_10307_10302_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=cf492fb8-4b19-410e-9213-32a35a6461dd-0&algo_pvid=cf492fb8-4b19-410e-9213-32a35a6461dd&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0) which is compatible with this PCB.
a case made by Vortex designed to fit into a filco I think.That case looks similar to the YMD CNC case (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-Anodized-Aluminum-Case-Shell-For-Filco-87-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Including-Key-line-separation/32617566709.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.XNTSTm&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10059_10340_10314_10184_10341_10534_100031_10084_10604_10083_10103_10304_10307_10302_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=cf492fb8-4b19-410e-9213-32a35a6461dd-0&algo_pvid=cf492fb8-4b19-410e-9213-32a35a6461dd&transAbTest=ae803_5&priceBeautifyAB=0) which is compatible with this PCB.
If it supports a Filco MJ2 TKL then it will support the XMMX. You'll have to use a JST ph 5 pin connector to route your case inside the case (or solder a cable directly on the PCB) as stated in the first post.
I am a bit confused what you mean by having to use the 5pin connector. Could you explain more what that is for?The XMMX is designed to be standalone, other than fitting some commercial cases, therefore the USB port would end up being in a unusable location for the aforementioned cases. You have certainly noticed how Filco MJ2 cables are attached to the PCB. I would the recommend the same solution, i.e. using a JST ph connector (https://dalewoodmodels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/JST-PH-2.0MM-5-Pin-2.jpg).
hate to be that guy, but is there a guide on how to install the various parts onto the PCB? for instance where on the PCB would it need to be installed?That's actually a good point. I updated the table in the first post with a symbol's list. That should answer your question.
Thank you TalkingTree! That was relatively easy. Just ordered 10 in classic green with a solder stencil. I'll upload pictures when they get delivered and I have time to work on them.Thank you for looking into it. I'm looking forward for some pictures.
fantastic work. Is it possible to update the partlist as some of them (some of the capacitors do not seem to be available anymore on jlcpcb)Thanks. I'll have a look.
some of the capacitors do not seem to be available anymore on jlcpcbThey all seem to be available. Can you fill with more details?
guess they restocked the partsLikely.
What are the changes intended for this new version?Split spacebar as designed for the TOAD, but I'm progressing at sloth speed.
I see new holes for in-switch-LEDs but no traces for them.Extra keys but I haven't had a chance to finalize the revision yet.
I'm a bit confused here.
Is either version on EasyEDA ready to go, or are both currently under revision?
They both say "UNDER REVISION - DO NOT SEND TO PRODUCTION" on the document layer.
I'm a bit confused here.
Is either version on EasyEDA ready to go, or are both currently under revision?
They both say "UNDER REVISION - DO NOT SEND TO PRODUCTION" on the document layer.
I could have missed something but version "PCB_2020-12-10_22-51-42" looks fine. Just a note I'm using version 1.0 in a couple of boards without issue. If you have no luck finding it I could send you a extra PCB I have if you pay for shipping. Also just to be clear you will need to do all the soldering of components as I'll just be sending the bare PCB. Send me a PM if you wanna go that route.
I'm a bit confused here.
Is either version on EasyEDA ready to go, or are both currently under revision?
They both say "UNDER REVISION - DO NOT SEND TO PRODUCTION" on the document layer.
I could have missed something but version "PCB_2020-12-10_22-51-42" looks fine. Just a note I'm using version 1.0 in a couple of boards without issue. If you have no luck finding it I could send you a extra PCB I have if you pay for shipping. Also just to be clear you will need to do all the soldering of components as I'll just be sending the bare PCB. Send me a PM if you wanna go that route.
Oh, I was about to roll the dice on 1.1 since it looks like "PCB_2020-12-10_22-51-42" is missing the diodes on the bottom row.
1.1 right now has some incomplete traces, and undrilled holes among other things (ask me how I know).
I found a copy someone made of 1.1 either from before it went to WIP or that they fixed: https://easyeda.com/aarondeister99/xmmx-revised (https://easyeda.com/aarondeister99/xmmx-revised)
After checking more closely I ordered that version, and can confirm it works and everything is where it should be.
Can I omit the leds and resistors? Was never a fan of the leds on the original qfr pcb.I don't see why not. Just to be sure, you need the other resistors in the table. But if you're not putting in LEDs, I think you can leave those 2 resistors out. :)
Does anyone know what orientation the atmega should be soldered in? They didn't have that part in stock when I had the pcb printed with the smd service.There should be a dot on the silkscreen in one corner that you line up with a dot in one corner of the atmega.