[GB] Fox Lab - Key 65

[LazyJackfruit]

Just received my invoice. If its any consolation for those yet to receive one, there was a (370) beside the invoice which may refer to the current order that was just processed, out of the 480 total boards ordered.  The (370) didn't refer to my order # nor the invoice # on the spreadsheet for reference. $71 shipping to TX.

[Tyson]

If anyone gets there's in and isn't happy with it I'd love to buy it from you, I don't mind the color combination either, I have the resources to change the color if I really want to (Unless it's polycarb lol).

[deathjester]

Just paid my invoice. Absolutely stoked!!

[Wongstongs]

Do these PCBs have a keycode to enter bootmapper/reset mode?  I dont want to desolder the reset button only to find out that there isn't a way to flash the board going forward.

Fn+esc

Just flashed mine using QMK toolbox

[Aiwanei]

Hmm, how did that happen? It's an alu full plate, right?

Yeah full alu plate. I'm assuming one of my switch legs in the middle of the board was touching the bottom of the case, but can't be certain. The foam did fix it.

With all of the gaskets installed, you really do have to screw this thing together tight, so it might be the gaskets forcing things closer together?

I actually had to loosen mine, had tightened it up and the board stopped working, because the reset switch was being hit constantly, even after trimming it.  So I guess I'm going to possibly remove the reset switch.

[InediblePi]

Looking to trade my PC Key65 with WK and brass key logo for an e-black Key65 with e-pink key logo. If interested, please PM me for complete build details!

[noodleman]

ne via avail?

[Felt]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

[toanta]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

This is pretty concerning as people are finding out this issue now.

[airyimbin]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

This is pretty concerning as people are finding out this issue now.

I have a PC plate/case and not having this issue

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[4nalee]

Mine came in the mail today but I received a 6.25u spacebar plate instead of a 7u spacebar plate. Does anyone have an extra plate they don't need that they can sell me?

[noideawhatsgoing]

[Deleted]

[edctog]

Thing of Beauty!

[edctog]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

Nope, not for me. I installed all 16 gaskets for the plate and the silicone sound dampener. There is plenty of space between the bottom of the case and the reset button.

[thecyangiant]

Thing of Beauty!

Show Image

Ohh looks nice! What is the cable solution, looks like you have an aviation adapter on the board at the USB port?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Knoxx]

Just received my invoice. If its any consolation for those yet to receive one, there was a (370) beside the invoice which may refer to the current order that was just processed, out of the 480 total boards ordered.  The (370) didn't refer to my order # nor the invoice # on the spreadsheet for reference. $71 shipping to TX.

Just got mine as well. 392

[clankgy1]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

Nope, not for me. I installed all 16 gaskets for the plate and the silicone sound dampener. There is plenty of space between the bottom of the case and the reset button.

Not directly addressed at you, but why would you have plenty of space between bottom of case and reset button while others are having issues with button contacting plate?  Seems like a very big variance.  I'm waiting on switches before putting mine together. but this is a curious development.

[edctog]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

Nope, not for me. I installed all 16 gaskets for the plate and the silicone sound dampener. There is plenty of space between the bottom of the case and the reset button.

Not directly addressed at you, but why would you have plenty of space between bottom of case and reset button while others are having issues with button contacting plate?  Seems like a very big variance.  I'm waiting on switches before putting mine together. but this is a curious development.

Well, I read people reviews on Zfrontier and some have this problem. But they also didn't install all of the gaskets correctly as mentioned by some other people.  I might exaggerate by plenty of space, but I didn't have any difficulty put the bottom part on the case. It didn't feel like I pressed the PCB back or anything. The reset button is not at the lowest part of the PCB so if the lowest part made it, the reset button should be fine. Mine is a hotswap though, so I can't say for sure for the universal one.

[edctog]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

I apologize. In my haste, I didn't see that you are asking specifically Alu buyers. Mine is PC. However, I can answer the part about the placement of the reset button. It's on the bottom side (face-down side like you said). The silicone pad included with this case is to sandwich between the PCB and the plate, not for the bottom of the case. It doesn't push the PCB any further down. I think maybe Alu users are tightening the screws more than they should and/or they didn't install all of the gasket pieces (16 for the plates and 6 for the middle case).

[merkz]

Just got my shipping invoice, twas $68 to Florida

[clankgy1]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

Nope, not for me. I installed all 16 gaskets for the plate and the silicone sound dampener. There is plenty of space between the bottom of the case and the reset button.

Not directly addressed at you, but why would you have plenty of space between bottom of case and reset button while others are having issues with button contacting plate?  Seems like a very big variance.  I'm waiting on switches before putting mine together. but this is a curious development.

Well, I read people reviews on Zfrontier and some have this problem. But they also didn't install all of the gaskets correctly as mentioned by some other people.  I might exaggerate by plenty of space, but I didn't have any difficulty put the bottom part on the case. It didn't feel like I pressed the PCB back or anything. The reset button is not at the lowest part of the PCB so if the lowest part made it, the reset button should be fine. Mine is a hotswap though, so I can't say for sure for the universal one.

This makes a lot of sense as to why some builds are having issues.  Lack of gasket installation would certainly affect bottom clearance.

Edit: Question on gaskets: (16 for the plates and 6 for the middle case).  I understand the gaskets on top and middle case for plates, what do the other 6 do and where do they go?  I have my keeb packed up until switches arrive, but I dont want to miss any gasket locations.

[vsrnth]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

Nope, not for me. I installed all 16 gaskets for the plate and the silicone sound dampener. There is plenty of space between the bottom of the case and the reset button.

Not directly addressed at you, but why would you have plenty of space between bottom of case and reset button while others are having issues with button contacting plate?  Seems like a very big variance.  I'm waiting on switches before putting mine together. but this is a curious development.

Well, I read people reviews on Zfrontier and some have this problem. But they also didn't install all of the gaskets correctly as mentioned by some other people.  I might exaggerate by plenty of space, but I didn't have any difficulty put the bottom part on the case. It didn't feel like I pressed the PCB back or anything. The reset button is not at the lowest part of the PCB so if the lowest part made it, the reset button should be fine. Mine is a hotswap though, so I can't say for sure for the universal one.

This makes a lot of sense as to why some builds are having issues.  Lack of gasket installation would certainly affect bottom clearance.

Edit: Question on gaskets: (16 for the plates and 6 for the middle case).  I understand the gaskets on top and middle case for plates, what do the other 6 do and where do they go?  I have my keeb packed up until switches arrive, but I dont want to miss any gasket locations.

I'm just gonna wait for a streamer to build it, and only them am I gonna build mine.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[clankgy1]

Thought about having a streamer build mine tbh, but I am anal retentive about my stabs.  Yes even more so than some of the streamers I have seen.  (and it prob wouldn't end up on stream unless i was first one).

[karmbit klacks]

Seeing everyone's builds is making me sad that I have yet to receive my shipping invoice anyone else on the same boat?

[MsCookz]

Seeing everyone's builds is making me sad that I have yet to receive my shipping invoice anyone else on the same boat?

got my invoice yesterday and I'm in the last batch

[Cujo96]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

Nope, not for me. I installed all 16 gaskets for the plate and the silicone sound dampener. There is plenty of space between the bottom of the case and the reset button.

Not directly addressed at you, but why would you have plenty of space between bottom of case and reset button while others are having issues with button contacting plate?  Seems like a very big variance.  I'm waiting on switches before putting mine together. but this is a curious development.

Well, I read people reviews on Zfrontier and some have this problem. But they also didn't install all of the gaskets correctly as mentioned by some other people.  I might exaggerate by plenty of space, but I didn't have any difficulty put the bottom part on the case. It didn't feel like I pressed the PCB back or anything. The reset button is not at the lowest part of the PCB so if the lowest part made it, the reset button should be fine. Mine is a hotswap though, so I can't say for sure for the universal one.

This makes a lot of sense as to why some builds are having issues.  Lack of gasket installation would certainly affect bottom clearance.

Edit: Question on gaskets: (16 for the plates and 6 for the middle case).  I understand the gaskets on top and middle case for plates, what do the other 6 do and where do they go?  I have my keeb packed up until switches arrive, but I dont want to miss any gasket locations.

You can pull off the middle layer and you put the 6 gaskets between the bottom and the middle layer, there's grooves where they need to go. Or at least I hope, if not I just ****ed up my keyboard badly LMAO

also, when will firmware be available on gmk

[Knoxx]

Quick room poll, is there anyone who got an alu case that HAS NOT had an issue with the reset button/board not working? There's just no way this issue made it through QC D:

Also, wouldn't any layer (foam, rubber, etc.) in between the pcb and the bottom of the case --> eliminate space and make it more likely for the reset button to unintentionally trigger? Or is the reset button not on the face-down side of the pcb like I think it is...?

Nope, not for me. I installed all 16 gaskets for the plate and the silicone sound dampener. There is plenty of space between the bottom of the case and the reset button.

Not directly addressed at you, but why would you have plenty of space between bottom of case and reset button while others are having issues with button contacting plate?  Seems like a very big variance.  I'm waiting on switches before putting mine together. but this is a curious development.

Well, I read people reviews on Zfrontier and some have this problem. But they also didn't install all of the gaskets correctly as mentioned by some other people.  I might exaggerate by plenty of space, but I didn't have any difficulty put the bottom part on the case. It didn't feel like I pressed the PCB back or anything. The reset button is not at the lowest part of the PCB so if the lowest part made it, the reset button should be fine. Mine is a hotswap though, so I can't say for sure for the universal one.

This makes a lot of sense as to why some builds are having issues.  Lack of gasket installation would certainly affect bottom clearance.

Edit: Question on gaskets: (16 for the plates and 6 for the middle case).  I understand the gaskets on top and middle case for plates, what do the other 6 do and where do they go?  I have my keeb packed up until switches arrive, but I dont want to miss any gasket locations.

You can pull off the middle layer and you put the 6 gaskets between the bottom and the middle layer, there's grooves where they need to go. Or at least I hope, if not I just ****ed up my keyboard badly LMAO

also, when will firmware be available on gmk

If only this thing had a build guide like polaris did. That thing was bloody helpful.

Also think u mixed up GMK and QMK. I don't think anyone knows when it'll be up.

[matrixzj]

Hmm, how did that happen? It's an alu full plate, right?

Yeah full alu plate. I'm assuming one of my switch legs in the middle of the board was touching the bottom of the case, but can't be certain. The foam did fix it.

With all of the gaskets installed, you really do have to screw this thing together tight, so it might be the gaskets forcing things closer together?

I actually had to loosen mine, had tightened it up and the board stopped working, because the reset switch was being hit constantly, even after trimming it.  So I guess I'm going to possibly remove the reset switch.

have you put all gaskets rubber on ? as tested, if all rubbers were put on the right position and reset key was clipped, it will not be happened

[kabocha]

Just finished my build. Love the board. However, as mentioned in the thread, the physical reset button on the universal pcb ends up pressing against the bottom case. I ended up desoldering the reset switch from the pcb. Another issue I had was the soldering pad around the split backspace, the pad was not registering from the back and I ended up having to add some solder from the switch side.

[Cujo96]

Hmm, how did that happen? It's an alu full plate, right?

Yeah full alu plate. I'm assuming one of my switch legs in the middle of the board was touching the bottom of the case, but can't be certain. The foam did fix it.

With all of the gaskets installed, you really do have to screw this thing together tight, so it might be the gaskets forcing things closer together?

I actually had to loosen mine, had tightened it up and the board stopped working, because the reset switch was being hit constantly, even after trimming it.  So I guess I'm going to possibly remove the reset switch.

have you put all gaskets rubber on ? as tested, if all rubbers were put on the right position and reset key was clipped, it will not be happened

I can't speak for everyone else, but I have all the gaskets on correctly as far as I know, button has been trimmed and I still get the reset button problem (full pc board if it matters) if I press down on caps hard enough. Obvious solution is to not press down caps hard.

[Myk!]

Why they use a big reset button? >.<

It would be better just use short pins on gap of space bar plate accessible from top.

[vsrnth]

Hmm, how did that happen? It's an alu full plate, right?

Yeah full alu plate. I'm assuming one of my switch legs in the middle of the board was touching the bottom of the case, but can't be certain. The foam did fix it.

With all of the gaskets installed, you really do have to screw this thing together tight, so it might be the gaskets forcing things closer together?

I actually had to loosen mine, had tightened it up and the board stopped working, because the reset switch was being hit constantly, even after trimming it.  So I guess I'm going to possibly remove the reset switch.

have you put all gaskets rubber on ? as tested, if all rubbers were put on the right position and reset key was clipped, it will not be happened

I can't speak for everyone else, but I have all the gaskets on correctly as far as I know, button has been trimmed and I still get the reset button problem (full pc board if it matters) if I press down on caps hard enough. Obvious solution is to not press down caps hard.

That's scary to know, that there is something fundamentally wrong with pcb's.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

[thecyangiant]

Might be a dumb question, but I'll shoot it off anyway: If the reset button is desoldered, can the pads be jumped manually for resetting if needed?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Wongstongs]

Hmm, how did that happen? It's an alu full plate, right?

Yeah full alu plate. I'm assuming one of my switch legs in the middle of the board was touching the bottom of the case, but can't be certain. The foam did fix it.

With all of the gaskets installed, you really do have to screw this thing together tight, so it might be the gaskets forcing things closer together?

I actually had to loosen mine, had tightened it up and the board stopped working, because the reset switch was being hit constantly, even after trimming it.  So I guess I'm going to possibly remove the reset switch.

have you put all gaskets rubber on ? as tested, if all rubbers were put on the right position and reset key was clipped, it will not be happened

Yes I installed all of the gaskets. 8 on either side where the plate rests and 6 between the bottom and middle pieces.


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[Myk!]

Might be a dumb question, but I'll shoot it off anyway: If the reset button is desoldered, can the pads be jumped manually for resetting if needed?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Of course. Or use combination on keymap for reset.

I always use Fn+Space+R. With this, you do not need to open the case just to flash.

[thecyangiant]

Might be a dumb question, but I'll shoot it off anyway: If the reset button is desoldered, can the pads be jumped manually for resetting if needed?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Of course. Or use combination on keymap for reset.

I always use Fn+Space+R. With this, you do not need to open the case just to flash.

I definitely use a reset combo/layer, but it is nice to know that I have a hardware method of resetting if things get too sideways.
If jumping is possible I don't really think there is a problem de-soldering the button, assuming the aluminum case or weight won't  jump the reset pads.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[achan7942]

Easy to add a ws2812 rgb led strip !




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[thecyangiant]

Easy to add a ws2812 rgb led strip !

Show Image

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Nice! Do you have any control over it with the default firmware?
EDIT: also, when the strip is affixed, will it have clearance issues with the case? Thinking about the reset button issue and how little clearance there is makes me wonder if this will fit.

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[achan7942]

Easy to add a ws2812 rgb led strip !

Show Image

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Nice! Do you have any control over it with the default firmware?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

default firmware for the solder version has fn+ q / w/ e/ r mapped to RBG controls..
However, the default firmware only allows 6 leds so you are going to have to import the universal firmware from the front page on to kbfirmware and set to the number of leds you want.

[airyimbin]

I have a PC case and plate and noticed that pressing hard on caps lock does reset my board as well.
It hasn't triggered while I've been normally using the board since I also have caps mapped to lctrl.

I too might just de solder the reset button.

[Tyson]

I take back my request to buy this board, this reset pin issue is a big yikes. I'll just wait for another 65 to come out. No biggie.

[achan7942]

I take back my request to buy this board, this reset pin issue is a big yikes. I'll just wait for another 65 to come out. No biggie.

i mean...i wouldn't really say its that big of an issue that you disqualify any interest in the board, the pcb functions perfectly fine otherwise. You have to press really hard (which you would never do when typing normally) to get it to reset when gaskets are put in. plus, de-soldering is a 5 second job and mapping the reset key is easy(already mapped stock).
Still a sweet board imo.

[airyimbin]

I take back my request to buy this board, this reset pin issue is a big yikes. I'll just wait for another 65 to come out. No biggie.

i mean...i wouldn't really say its that big of an issue that you disqualify any interest in the board, the pcb functions perfectly fine otherwise. You have to press really hard (which you would never do when typing normally) to get it to reset when gaskets are put in. plus, de-soldering is a 5 second job and mapping the reset key is easy(already mapped stock).
Still a sweet board imo.

I totally agree with you. I just unsoldered it right now and it took no time at all. This is a fantastic board and just one reset button doesn't change it at all. Could probably get a flatter reset button anyway the area seems like it fit anything.

[Wongstongs]

I take back my request to buy this board, this reset pin issue is a big yikes. I'll just wait for another 65 to come out. No biggie.

i mean...i wouldn't really say its that big of an issue that you disqualify any interest in the board, the pcb functions perfectly fine otherwise. You have to press really hard (which you would never do when typing normally) to get it to reset when gaskets are put in. plus, de-soldering is a 5 second job and mapping the reset key is easy(already mapped stock).
Still a sweet board imo.

I didn't have to press whatsoever on mine to get it to trip.

[Felt]

I take back my request to buy this board, this reset pin issue is a big yikes. I'll just wait for another 65 to come out. No biggie.

i mean...i wouldn't really say its that big of an issue that you disqualify any interest in the board, the pcb functions perfectly fine otherwise. You have to press really hard (which you would never do when typing normally) to get it to reset when gaskets are put in. plus, de-soldering is a 5 second job and mapping the reset key is easy(already mapped stock).
Still a sweet board imo.

I totally agree with you. I just unsoldered it right now and it took no time at all. This is a fantastic board and just one reset button doesn't change it at all. Could probably get a flatter reset button anyway the area seems like it fit anything.

This looks like the move. Going to desolder the reset button and adore this board to the fullest but darn what a QC botch lol

[senter]

Sorry about the rest button issue.

We identified the reset button issue after sending out the Chinese orders. It happened because the PCB supplier changed the BOM after the prototype was tested. We have removed the physical reset buttons for all the following PCBs. Only the first 40 or so PCBs still have the physical reset button. You can simply remove it with a wirecutter or soldering iron. It's not a necessary part for the PCB.

[Arithmetics]

why is this not in qmk???

theoretically this could have been done a long time ago

[clankgy1]

I'm selling my Key65 (layoff from work announced) unassembled.  #562 in google doc below.  PM me if interested.  (EDIT: SOLD, thanks)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ke59MgAsZ6ndgRrGKoOHbbexn5sZshrAS9p2pbRq0U0/edit#gid=0

[thecheeselouise]

Has anyone had any luck with programming their key65 yet? When I head into QMK confiq the pcb isn't listed. I saw the .hex and .json files, but I am unsure what use these are without the keyboard being listed in the config. I've always just used VIA in the past but, it doesnt seem that VIA is able to recognize this PCB.

[dommyy13]

Has anyone had any luck with programming their key65 yet? When I head into QMK confiq the pcb isn't listed. I saw the .hex and .json files, but I am unsure what use these are without the keyboard being listed in the config. I've always just used VIA in the past but, it doesnt seem that VIA is able to recognize this PCB.

you can use the website linked (https://kbfirmware.com/) and upload the json file.  after you change the keymap and stuff you'll see and option to compile as a hex file.  The hex file you use in qmk to flash keyboard with.  Use it as a local file in the QMK toolbox instead of selecting your keyboard from the list.