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Author Topic: Filco "Ghetto Reds"  (Read 9636 times)

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Offline Shazb0t

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 11:28:48 »
I have a Filco Tenkeyless with Cherry blacks that I wanted to convert to ghetto reds with the springs from some brown switches.  I was looking through the mod section and didn't see if anyone had done this before.  I looked at Ripsters thread for disassembling a Filco Tenkeyless and I checked out the desoldering cherry switch thread.  Has anyone done this before?  What was the difficulty level?  Any tips or tricks would be appreciated, thanks.
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Offline DanGWanG

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #1 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 12:23:34 »
I haven't personally done this myself, but my understanding is that you'll obviously need to have some basic soldering/desoldering skills.  Once you've desoldered the switch from the plate, it's as simple as taking the switch apart with some specially designed tweezers and swapping out the springs.

Here's a video CeeSA made on how to disassemble the switch.  Keep in mind that the video displays a PCB mounted (no soldering needed) switch.
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Offline sixty

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #2 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 12:27:09 »
Its pretty easy and not too hard. Use a low wattage iron, like 20w or 25w. Gonna be a bit more tricky on double sided boards such as the new Filco or the KBC, BlackWidow.
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Offline ironman31

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #3 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 12:43:31 »
Quote from: sixty;299878
Its pretty easy and not too hard. Use a low wattage iron, like 20w or 25w. Gonna be a bit more tricky on double sided boards such as the new Filco or the KBC, BlackWidow.


Is the double sided pcb harder because the solder gets on both sides?
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Offline sixty

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #4 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 12:48:27 »
Quote from: ironman31;299882
Is the double sided pcb harder because the solder gets on both sides?


Yeah. But it seems to vary from board to board. It seemed pretty easy to desolder stuff on the KBC and it was pretty damn hard on the Black Widow. In fact I broke the ESC key on there.
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Offline Mr. Perfect

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #5 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 13:15:18 »
Just throwing this out there, but has anyone tried moving the plate instead of the switches?

Maybe there are spacers in between the PCB and plate that I don't know about, or maybe you can't overcome the holding power of 87 Cherry switches, but it's worth exploring.

Here is a Cherry schematic I chopped up in MSPaint to depict the idea.

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Offline Lanx

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #6 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 13:25:14 »
i think most manufactuers that use a plate, fold in an edge all around the space between the place and pcb so you have a lip. At least this is how i saw my plate mounted crappy alps.
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Offline sixty

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #7 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 13:53:14 »
I never found the plate to be a problem. I just pop the switches out on the center stem (the big black one) with like the back end of a ballpen.
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Offline sixty

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #8 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 14:05:25 »
Depends on the plate I guess. Most you should not be able to because the plate is usually also connected to the PCB by either flexing a pin or soldering a pin. Sometimes also with screws. Even then it would still require a massive amount of force. I don't think it can be done.
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Offline laden3

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #9 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 14:57:32 »
Quote from: sixty;299885
Yeah. But it seems to vary from board to board. It seemed pretty easy to desolder stuff on the KBC and it was pretty damn hard on the Black Widow. In fact I broke the ESC key on there.


I think it's the quality of the PCB. The BlackWidow... yea... high quality...but, the BlackWidow isn't meant for modding.
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Offline turbocharged

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #10 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 15:51:45 »
Quote from: Lanx;299899
i think most manufactuers that use a plate, fold in an edge all around the space between the place and pcb so you have a lip. At least this is how i saw my plate mounted crappy alps.


This do this for structural rigidity. A plate with folded edges resists flex MUCH better than a full flat plate. Because of this I don't think you are going to have much of a chance "lowering the plate." In order to do this, you will need to constantly keep pressure on the plate and flex it below the switches side retainers. You would need to start at one corner and work your way down the side, then go row by row trying to detach the switches from the plate.

Honestly, soldering them isn't hard, just time consuming.
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Offline Dr.Pepper

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #11 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 19:45:03 »
Whatever happened with real cherry red switches?
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Offline nanu

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #12 on: Wed, 23 February 2011, 19:56:51 »
You could probably press the plate down if you could manage to press all of those tabs snugging each switch in place. All at the same time. And applying equal pressure along the entire plate so you don't make it bow somewhere. And backing the PCB with hard foam or rubber.
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Offline geekdwldwl

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #13 on: Thu, 24 February 2011, 03:06:53 »
I just desoldered and could use my fingernails to pop open.
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Offline calavera

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #14 on: Thu, 24 February 2011, 03:16:17 »
Whoever phrased this "ghetto" should be shot. There's nothing ghetto about this mod at all. It's a highly sought after mod among enthusiasts in Korea. This was before red switches surfaced though. Now everyone wants a taste of it. :)
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Offline mooremanifestation

  • Posts: 17
Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #15 on: Thu, 24 February 2011, 23:30:52 »
How about:
  • synthetic reds
  • ersatz reds
  • trans-color reds (tranny reds for short)
  • recombinant reds (my favorite, and alliterative to boot!)


Quote from: calavera;300218
Whoever phrased this "ghetto" should be shot. There's nothing ghetto about this mod at all. It's a highly sought after mod among enthusiasts in Korea. This was before red switches surfaced though. Now everyone wants a taste of it. :)
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Offline db_Iodine

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #16 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 02:11:48 »
Quote from: ripster;300652
You talking to me?


The angry mob is now looking for you. Better watch your back.

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Offline turbocharged

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #17 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 07:55:28 »
I vote:

Metamorpha-Reds, Trans-Reds, or my favorite....Mutant Reds.
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Offline steeef

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #18 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 13:17:38 »
Wish I had enough confidence to put clears in my Filco. I wouldn't want to risk destroying my favorite keyboard.
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Offline keyboardlover

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #19 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 13:44:02 »
I'm putting clears in one of my g80-3494s. More info to come =)
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Offline Dr.Pepper

  • Posts: 56
Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #20 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 15:34:06 »
I want a Green Déck Legend with cherry clear switches. Q1: Will that void my warranty? Q2: Where would I get clear switches? ( Hopefully without buying another keyboard )
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Offline turbocharged

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #21 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 16:53:58 »
Quote from: Dr.Pepper;300996
I want a Green Déck Legend with cherry clear switches. Q1: Will that void my warranty? Q2: Where would I get clear switches? ( Hopefully without buying another keyboard )

That should not void your warranty as long as you do it correctly (however if you needed warranty work you would probably have to switch all back).
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Offline steeef

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #22 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 17:43:23 »
Quote from: Dr.Pepper;300996
I want a Green Déck Legend with cherry clear switches. Q1: Will that void my warranty? Q2: Where would I get clear switches? ( Hopefully without buying another keyboard )

I think you'll end up purchasing a keyboard to get them. I got mine by searching for a Cherry MX 8100 (G80-8113) on Ebay. Even so, you have to ask the seller to check the switches ("please remove a key and check the color"), as they come with both Brown and Clear. $40+shipping.
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Offline digitalleftovers

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #23 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 19:08:51 »
Quote from: ripster;301130
Pentadruple DogDareSomeone!

Getting it back together might be an ever bigger problem.

Wow... Who is suggesting this? Cherry? The lower option seems more feasible with something like a numpad.  I can't image doing that with a full size board...

EDIT: Assuming there is nothing else soldered to that board for the plate to run into.
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Offline Dr.Pepper

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #24 on: Fri, 25 February 2011, 19:31:54 »
I'll do it if someone here doesn't mind "lending" me one of their keyboards :)

But since I am going to be getting a cheap keyboard anyways I might just do that. Especially if I end up with one in awful condition
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Offline Mr. Perfect

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #25 on: Sun, 27 February 2011, 16:18:33 »
No kidding?



And everyone was so ready to solder 416 pins on 208 switches. Bah!
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Offline Shazb0t

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #26 on: Sun, 27 February 2011, 17:40:35 »
Anyone got a Filco they want to try depressing the plate out on?  I'd like to the know before I take mine apart, I'm selfish like that.
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Offline Orphagn

  • Posts: 170
Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #27 on: Sun, 27 February 2011, 18:00:15 »
This won't be possible on a Noppoo. The metal plate has edges resting on the PCB so I can't try it.
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Offline Dr.Pepper

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #28 on: Sun, 27 February 2011, 20:59:28 »
And I was just getting around to order one of those keyboards; about $28 plus shipping.
Besides, everyone knows that Ripster has plenty of time on his hands.
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Offline elbowglue

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #29 on: Sun, 27 February 2011, 23:35:52 »
Omg.  Are you kidding me?  Just smash the plate down?  This may be one of the shining moments in geekhack history.
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Offline sixty

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #30 on: Mon, 28 February 2011, 09:33:46 »
I tried it with non soldered switches on a g80-3000 with aluminium plate yesterday. With up to about 20 switches I can push down the plate, after that it starts feeling absolutely impossible.
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Offline sixty

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #31 on: Mon, 28 February 2011, 10:14:38 »
Quote from: ripster;302147
Bummer, I suspected such.

I never knew there were plate mounted G80-3000s.

Of course, I'm American so we don't see a lot of them here.
Show Image

Its a custom plate. Very light aluminum. It was cheap because there was a mistake with the right shift key that had to be manually fixed by painfully grinding it with a file.

« Last Edit: Mon, 28 February 2011, 10:20:55 by sixty »
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Offline Mr. Perfect

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Filco "Ghetto Reds"
« Reply #32 on: Mon, 28 February 2011, 12:34:45 »
Are plates usually aluminum? I thought they where steel.
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