Satan GH60

[SoReckless]

Then what's the screen for?

it has a touchscreen, so it is the keyboard.

[SKD]

Quick question. I am building a second 60% with this board.  I am going to put SMD LEDs on the underside as I have a clear plastic case for it. Can the SMD LEDs be controlled the same was as the through hole LEDs on the top? I am only going to use SMD LEDs on the underside only.

[rpeterclark]

Quick question. I am building a second 60% with this board.  I am going to put SMD LEDs on the underside as I have a clear plastic case for it. Can the SMD LEDs be controlled the same was as the through hole LEDs on the top? I am only going to use SMD LEDs on the underside only.

The SMD LEDs on the bottom are controlled the same as the in-switch LEDs, in fact they cannot even be controlled separately.

[tofgerl]

Yeah, they're actually the same connection points even though they look like they're separate.

[SKD]

Awesome. Thank you.

Next question. Would I be able to get away with using just one LED for the caps lock on top? I was given some self changing RGB LEDs. Would be cool to use one along with the SMDs on the bottom.

[rinkaan]

Hi everyone,

I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?

Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs.  These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix.  My board was perfectly fine when I got it.

2x3x4 leds are what I use.  Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package

Sent from my local payphone

thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.

I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.

thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. 

There are always sip sockets.  You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out.   If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighter

Sent from my local payphone

Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .

Sent from my MI NOTE LTE using Tapatalk

[Moistgun]

Hi everyone,

I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?

Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs.  These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix.  My board was perfectly fine when I got it.

2x3x4 leds are what I use.  Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package

Sent from my local payphone

thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.

I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.

thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. 

There are always sip sockets.  You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out.   If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighter

Sent from my local payphone

Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .

Sent from my MI NOTE LTE using Tapatalk

I understand what you mean. They do take quite some time. But if you think you will swap leds a half dozen times on its life, it's a wash

[kawasaki161]

else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.

Small tip: use a 2,5mm drill. If you use a 3mm one and are off just a tad the switch won't snap into the plate anymore since you damaged the retainer (source: I ****ed up one switch that way). 2,5mm is still enough for conventional SIP sockets, you might want to solder those in after placing the switch on top of them though since 2,5mm does not allow for misaligned SIP sockets.

[kasakka]

Hi everyone,

I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?

Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs.  These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix.  My board was perfectly fine when I got it.

2x3x4 leds are what I use.  Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package

Sent from my local payphone

thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.

I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.

thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. 

There are always sip sockets.  You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out.   If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighter

Sent from my local payphone

Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .

I'll probably never go SIP sockets again. Took me forever to disassemble each switch and put them in and then if I have to ever remove a switch getting all the solder out of the SIP socket slots is difficult so that switch is stuck in there quite tight. Its easier to just desolder a broken LED if needed and figure out what kind of lighting you want beforehand.

[rinkaan]

Hi everyone,

I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?

Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs.  These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix.  My board was perfectly fine when I got it.

2x3x4 leds are what I use.  Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package

Sent from my local payphone

thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.

I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.

thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. 

There are always sip sockets.  You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out.   If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighter

Sent from my local payphone

Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .

I'll probably never go SIP sockets again. Took me forever to disassemble each switch and put them in and then if I have to ever remove a switch getting all the solder out of the SIP socket slots is difficult so that switch is stuck in there quite tight. Its easier to just desolder a broken LED if needed and figure out what kind of lighting you want beforehand.

that was why I predrilled the holes on the switches for the sip to be able to slip thru without a need to unsolder them if I need to change out a switch. it also saves the need to remove the top half of the switch to put in the sip socket. I'm contemplating to assemble a 3rd keyboard by getting the magicforce board. cost more than the satan gh60 clone but I think it is worth getting dedicated arrow keys.

Sent from my MI NOTE LTE using Tapatalk

[kasakka]

Hi everyone,

I am going to build my first ever mechanical keyboard, and I think I am going for the Satan PCB with Gateron Switches.
will this PCB allow for an easy first time experience and does it support LED's? also, what kind of LED's should I get?
at the moment thinking about just buying this package;
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-KC60-60-Kit-Plastic-Case-Switches-Plate-Led-Stabilizers-for-60-Standard-ANSI-Mechanical-Keyboard/32629156371.html
it says they don't have the Satan PCB's, but the KC60 PCB's. however, they note that these should work exactly the same.
does anyone have experience with the KC60 PCB's?

Both should allow for leds and should be an easy entry to customs.  These boards have had random issues here and there but nothing a return wouldn't fix.  My board was perfectly fine when I got it.

2x3x4 leds are what I use.  Just grab those from Ali if you're getting that package

Sent from my local payphone

thanks, the package actually includes LED's, so I will just go with those. now to choose between white and green LED's. planning to do a dark grey case, with light grey keys and dark green modifiers. might put in a red ESC button.
well, going of track now.

I would definitely recommend white leds. greens suck imo. not very bright.

thanks for confirming, I was mainly thinking about white because I don't feel like resoldering everything when wanting to change the color-theme of my keyboard. 

There are always sip sockets.  You solder once and can hot swap leds in and out.   If you do want green, I'd recommend cyan, as they are alot brighter

Sent from my local payphone

Yes sip sockets work for hotswapping the led.. but it takes quite a bit of effort to solder them on. on the regular gateron or cherry switch. u usually insert the LED into the hole and solder to the board.. but if you want to use sip socket you can choose to remove the switch top half and put into the sip sockets.
else you can dremel out the bottom of the led holes using a 3mm drill bit and solder on all the sip sockets first then mount the switches later. i opted for the second approach in case I had a dead switch u don't need to remove the sip sockets but can unsolder the switch and remove directly.
and it's quite a hard push to get the led in without bending the legs.
took me a good 6hrs to get all the above done .

I'll probably never go SIP sockets again. Took me forever to disassemble each switch and put them in and then if I have to ever remove a switch getting all the solder out of the SIP socket slots is difficult so that switch is stuck in there quite tight. Its easier to just desolder a broken LED if needed and figure out what kind of lighting you want beforehand.

that was why I predrilled the holes on the switches for the sip to be able to slip thru without a need to unsolder them if I need to change out a switch. it also saves the need to remove the top half of the switch to put in the sip socket. I'm contemplating to assemble a 3rd keyboard by getting the magicforce board. cost more than the satan gh60 clone but I think it is worth getting dedicated arrow keys.

You could do like I do and set the right Ctrl, Win, Gui and Shift keys as permanent arrow keys. I do have a layer to make them their original scancodes but I very rarely use them like that. I have figured I actually like that setup so much that I decided to not get the Whitefox I was considering.

[Kmanxx]

Could anyone help me? recently just got the satan gh60 and tested it before soldering the keys on, which worked perfectly fine. Now, the G, B, \, and Backspace keys aren't working. Any ideas?

[Moistgun]

Could anyone help me? recently just got the satan gh60 and tested it before soldering the keys on, which worked perfectly fine. Now, the G, B, \, and Backspace keys aren't working. Any ideas?

Did you test the pcb by shorting it and using keyboardtester?

with the switches in, flip the board around, and short the pins by touching both with a pair of metal tweezers using keyboardtester.

[Kmanxx]

Got the keys working, just some bad soldering. Does anyone still have the config/other stuffs from a0-c for the rgb mod? it was all removed on github.

[Moistgun]

Got the keys working, just some bad soldering. Does anyone still have the config/other stuffs from a0-c for the rgb mod? it was all removed on github.

QMK has changed quite a Bit since he had all his files up.

[Moistgun]

I would download the latest QMK files, and follow the directions in the README VERY CAREFULLY

there is dedicated firmware files already set up for the Satan, but you will likely need to make tweaks.

[Kmanxx]

Yea I got the qmk files and saw some stuff on the rgb, sadly my layers 90% of the time don't work and the rgb lights aren't turning on either. Was hoping for some help with that.

[Moistgun]

Yea I got the qmk files and saw some stuff on the rgb, sadly my layers 90% of the time don't work and the rgb lights aren't turning on either. Was hoping for some help with that.

You're firmware works sometimes though?

you should at least have light from the rgb strip if you flashed with the satan QMK fork.

[Kmanxx]

Got the layers working properly, but tried multiple times with reflashing to get the rgb strip to work with no luck. I have it enabled in the makefile, correct pin in the config, and the keybinds in the keymap, but the strip just wont turn on. Any ideas?

[Moistgun]

Got the layers working properly, but tried multiple times with reflashing to get the rgb strip to work with no luck. I have it enabled in the makefile, correct pin in the config, and the keybinds in the keymap, but the strip just wont turn on. Any ideas?

Not even getting static lighting from the strip?

Would you mind sharing a pic of the strip wiring?

Did you directly adhere the strip to the pcb? or did you put electrical tape between the strip and pcb?

[Kmanxx]

Never got any lighting from the strip, and the strip wasn't on the back of the pcb yet, just hanging off temporarily, so I don't think that was the problem. Just removed the rgb strip and now my computer wont recognize the keyboard and I can't reflash the firmware due to not being able to enter bootloader mode.

[Moistgun]

Never got any lighting from the strip, and the strip wasn't on the back of the pcb yet, just hanging off temporarily, so I don't think that was the problem. Just removed the rgb strip and now my computer wont recognize the keyboard and I can't reflash the firmware due to not being able to enter bootloader mode.

Can you not just press the button on the back of the pcb to enter bootloader mode?

I think you have to tell the firmware which pin you soldered the strip to, so by removing the hardware, the firmware is confused due to the lack of strip connected to that pin.

Talking out my ass here.

[Kmanxx]

The button on the pcb didn't work, but actually reconnecting the pin to the strip let me enter bootloader again. Still no luck getting the lights turned on. Completely out of ideas now.

[Moistgun]

The button on the pcb didn't work, but actually reconnecting the pin to the strip let me enter bootloader again. Still no luck getting the lights turned on. Completely out of ideas now.

Usually the button on the back not working is a sign of the drivers being wonky.

A number of people I know, including myself are actually using the Zadig drivers from the tkg toolkit.  can be found here
https://github.com/kairyu/tkg-toolkit

Go into the Windows folder > Tools > Zadig 2.1.2

Run that, and download the drivers.


If its not working, theres some issues with the firmware you wrote.

Again, do you mind sharing pictures of the wiring? to and from the strip

[Kmanxx]

Already had the drivers downloaded from zadig and if I wasn't clear, the button started to work again once the rgb strip was connected to the pin again. Heres some pics of my bad soldering http://imgur.com/a/kG0aG and I also put some electric tape on the back temporarily. I plan on prettying it up once I get it working.

[Moistgun]

Already had the drivers downloaded from zadig and if I wasn't clear, the button started to work again once the rgb strip was connected to the pin again. Heres some pics of my bad soldering http://imgur.com/a/kG0aG and I also put some electric tape on the back temporarily. I plan on prettying it up once I get it working.

So Ill assume you have the green wire soldered to the very last middle pad on the strip.

3 things.
1) If you did not have the tape down before you turned the board on the first time with the strip wired up, the strip could have shorted and killed itself, permanently.  sometimes it kills a couple leds, sometimes it kills the whole thing.
2) It looks like there is too much solder on the green wire connecting to the controller. If there is solder even bridging the pins on the controller just a little bit, you will have issues.  Suck up some of that solder, and use just a little.
3) It looks like the green wire is also touching the smd component, once again, you don't want that to short on anything metal.  Just that one pin on the controller -> directly to the middle pad on the strip.

[Kmanxx]

I know the strip isn't dead as it has accidently turned on from a wire touching a pin accidently on the chip. Just removed most of the solder and redid it so the cable isn't touching any other component or the pin next to it. Still no luck getting the rgb strip to turn on

[Moistgun]

I know the strip isn't dead as it has accidently turned on from a wire touching a pin accidently on the chip. Just removed most of the solder and redid it so the cable isn't touching any other component or the pin next to it. Still no luck getting the rgb strip to turn on

If the power and ground are hooked up correctly, I would think you should still be getting static blue lighting. Hmmmm

Want to shoot over the entire folder and Ill take a look at it? See if I catch anything?

[Kmanxx]

Heres my folder and I am just using the default keymap.

[Moistgun]

Heres my folder and I am just using the default keymap.

Sorry this took so long.

Are firmware varies so much, that I suggest you try to alter mine to the layout you want and give it a flash.

First main thing is the FL on yours starts with ifdef
while mine is ifndef
I had to switch that for mine to work so you could try that.  Like literally adding that n for me fixed it.

But mine always had static lighting
so i think your strip might be dead

Take a look at mine and see if you can tell what i'm talking about


https://www.dropbox.com/s/np0eq4wqv6seb4n/keymap.c?dl=0

[Kmanxx]

Can I see your makefile/config? Still no luck with your keymap and tried a new strip aswell and didn't turn on either. More than likely my pin is bad on the chip so I'll have to change it. Just wanna see what you had for your config first before I do.

[Moistgun]

Config
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ugrm09qgf2set4/config.h?dl=0

Makefile
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ng3coas58imwn6/Makefile?dl=0

[Moistgun]

Can I see your makefile/config? Still no luck with your keymap and tried a new strip aswell and didn't turn on either. More than likely my pin is bad on the chip so I'll have to change it. Just wanna see what you had for your config first before I do.

Maybe you have a different version of the pcb?


Ive seen one instance where people did use a different controller pin.

[tofgerl]

I'm trying out QMK for the Docker thingy, but I can't get it to work right. Have any of you QMK-users changed anything to make it work? I had to change quite a few things in TMK, but I can't keep the tweaks the same since the layout isn't the same.

[MikiDora]

Hi you all.

I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.

This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG

I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.

I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.

Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board 


EDIT: And after further tests the board works perfectly fine on a different pc and I did in fact flash it correctly so it seems like I messed something with the drivers on my PC, any idea on how to restore them to original?

[Moistgun]

Hi you all.

I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.

This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG

I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.

I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.

Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board 

Can you share your layout?

[MikiDora]

Hi you all.

I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.

This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG

I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.

I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.

Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board 

Can you share your layout?

Sorry, I edited my comment while you were replying.

 I think I know what the problem is, it's not the layout. I think I accidentally replaced the PCB driver for WinUSB while I was messing around with zadig and that's what causing the problem. To be honest I don't really know much (or anything) about drivers but do you know how could I have the original driver back?

[Moistgun]

Sorry, I edited my comment while you were replying.

 I think I know what the problem is, it's not the layout. I think I accidentally replaced the PCB driver for WinUSB while I was messing around with zadig and that's what causing the problem. To be honest I don't really know much (or anything) about drivers but do you know how could I have the original driver back?

If you open device manager, find the device, uninstall, press the button on the back of the Satan, then install Zadig, it will work

[MikiDora]

Hi you all.

I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.

This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG

I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.

I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.

Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board 

Can you share your layout?

Sorry, I edited my comment while you were replying.

 I think I know what the problem is, it's not the layout. I think I accidentally replaced the PCB driver for WinUSB while I was messing around with zadig and that's what causing the problem. To be honest I don't really know much (or anything) about drivers but do you know how could I have the original driver back?

If you open device manager, find the device, uninstall, press the button on the back of the Satan, then install Zadig, it will work

Thanks, but its a little confusing. In my device manager I have four instances of "HID Keyboard Device" under the "Keyboards"  tab, and one called "GH60" under "Universal Serial Bus devices", I uninstalled all of them. Then when pressing the button there is a new one called "ATm32U4DFU" that I uninstalled as well just in case but it still not works after replugging. On the zadig software appear 5 instances of GH60, with interfaces from 0 to 4 and all of them have the HidUsb driver except the one on Interface 0 that has WinUSB driver. I think that's the one I changed by accident and it should be HidUsb like the others but I don't know what else to unninstall to make it go back 

Sorry if I'm not being very clear but this is a bit confusing to me, and thank you very much for the help.

[Moistgun]

Thanks, but its a little confusing. In my device manager I have four instances of "HID Keyboard Device" under the "Keyboards"  tab, and one called "GH60" under "Universal Serial Bus devices", I uninstalled all of them. Then when pressing the button there is a new one called "ATm32U4DFU" that I uninstalled as well just in case but it still not works after replugging. On the zadig software appear 5 instances of GH60, with interfaces from 0 to 4 and all of them have the HidUsb driver except the one on Interface 0 that has WinUSB driver. I think that's the one I changed by accident and it should be HidUsb like the others but I don't know what else to unninstall to make it go back 

Sorry if I'm not being very clear but this is a bit confusing to me, and thank you very much for the help.

You should just need to clear the atmega one, and reinstall.  Also make sure there are no spaces in your hex file

[MikiDora]

Hi you all.

I'm having problems with my Satan board and I could use your help.

This is my first custom board, I had no previous experience soldering or flashing firmwares to keyboards, I'm a total noob regarding this. I managed to solder everything and surprisingly everything worked first try. I have been using the board with the default layout and everything worked fine, fn layer, LEDs... Now I decided to flash my own layout using this guide: https://imgur.com/a/rfezG

I followed every step and, after finishing, the keyboard does not input anything, the LEDs work though. I changed the location of the fn key and it is working in it's new location so I believe I did flash something at least, but other than the LEDs nothing works.

I read this thread and googled a little bit and could not find a solution. I tried upgrading the drivers using zadig (I read it in another thread) but I had no idea what I was doing and I might have screwed it up even more.

Any help on what to do from here will be much appreciated since before this I was loving the board 

Can you share your layout?

Sorry, I edited my comment while you were replying.

 I think I know what the problem is, it's not the layout. I think I accidentally replaced the PCB driver for WinUSB while I was messing around with zadig and that's what causing the problem. To be honest I don't really know much (or anything) about drivers but do you know how could I have the original driver back?

If you open device manager, find the device, uninstall, press the button on the back of the Satan, then install Zadig, it will work

Thanks, but its a little confusing. In my device manager I have four instances of "HID Keyboard Device" under the "Keyboards"  tab, and one called "GH60" under "Universal Serial Bus devices", I uninstalled all of them. Then when pressing the button there is a new one called "ATm32U4DFU" that I uninstalled as well just in case but it still not works after replugging. On the zadig software appear 5 instances of GH60, with interfaces from 0 to 4 and all of them have the HidUsb driver except the one on Interface 0 that has WinUSB driver. I think that's the one I changed by accident and it should be HidUsb like the others but I don't know what else to unninstall to make it go back 

Sorry if I'm not being very clear but this is a bit confusing to me, and thank you very much for the help.

You should just need to clear the atmega one, and reinstall.  Also make sure there are no spaces in your hex file

I don't know if doing something wrong but it doesn't fix it.

I press the button on the back of the pcb, go into the device manager, search for a ATm32U4DFU, select uninstall and check the box "Delete the driver software for this device" and when I plug it again it seems to install the drivers again but when I check they are the same and it still not works.

[Moistgun]

I don't know if doing something wrong but it doesn't fix it.

I press the button on the back of the pcb, go into the device manager, search for a ATm32U4DFU, select uninstall and check the box "Delete the driver software for this device" and when I plug it again it seems to install the drivers again but when I check they are the same and it still not works.

What I'm saying is you need to press that button before you install the Zadig driver.  You only needed to uninstall it that one time

[MikiDora]

I don't know if doing something wrong but it doesn't fix it.

I press the button on the back of the pcb, go into the device manager, search for a ATm32U4DFU, select uninstall and check the box "Delete the driver software for this device" and when I plug it again it seems to install the drivers again but when I check they are the same and it still not works.

What I'm saying is you need to press that button before you install the Zadig driver.  You only needed to uninstall it that one time

Well, I have no idea how but I fixed it, and without using Zadig, I unplugged everything but the board from my pc, restarted windows and uninstalled it from the device manager a lot of times and at some point it started working again.

Thank you Moistgun, I hope the keyboard karma rewards you greatly.

[Moistgun]

Well, I have no idea how but I fixed it, and without using Zadig, I unplugged everything but the board from my pc, restarted windows and uninstalled it from the device manager a lot of times and at some point it started working again.

Thank you Moistgun, I hope the keyboard karma rewards you greatly.

Some times it works that way
Repetitive punches FTW

[hermith]

Hi guys. I've gotten my GH60 Satan hooked up and programmed, but I've hit one big issue I can't seem to resolve, it might just be me looking at this from the wrong angle.

I have three layers. FN0 and FN1 are pretty much stock, QWERTY on FN0 and all the other stuff on FN1 that's triggered by hitting the FN button next to RALT. So far so good.

I've added a third layer, this is toggled on and off by hitting the caps lock button, this is FN2 (this is my hardware Dvorak layer). When this is toggled ON everything is swell, except when I want to use the FN1 layer by using the FN button it ONLY works when there's nothing mapped in the FN2 layer, e.g. FN + A will still be left arrow, because it's transparent in FN2, but FN + D will only type an 'E', and not "override" the FN1 layer completely.

In short: I want the FN1 layer to override my current layout even when I'm in an ON state on the FN2 layer.

I'm sure FN button works when I'm in FN2 because everything that is transparent in FN2 works fine.

[tofgerl]

Ah, Windows...

[suicidal_orange]

Hi guys. I've gotten my GH60 Satan hooked up and programmed, but I've hit one big issue I can't seem to resolve, it might just be me looking at this from the wrong angle.

I have three layers. FN0 and FN1 are pretty much stock, QWERTY on FN0 and all the other stuff on FN1 that's triggered by hitting the FN button next to RALT. So far so good.

I've added a third layer, this is toggled on and off by hitting the caps lock button, this is FN2 (this is my hardware Dvorak layer). When this is toggled ON everything is swell, except when I want to use the FN1 layer by using the FN button it ONLY works when there's nothing mapped in the FN2 layer, e.g. FN + A will still be left arrow, because it's transparent in FN2, but FN + D will only type an 'E', and not "override" the FN1 layer completely.

In short: I want the FN1 layer to override my current layout even when I'm in an ON state on the FN2 layer.

I'm sure FN button works when I'm in FN2 because everything that is transparent in FN2 works fine.

Random thought but what happens if you switch layers 2 and 3 so the dvorak overrides happen before the arrows?

[hermith]

Thanks suicidal_orange! The thought struck me as well yesterday after I had given up, and it does indeed work! 

[parityb1t]

Hello,
I have a question about the Satan
A seller told me its not ISO compatible, I find it hard to believe ... is it possible?

[ashborn]

Not sure if I post the right thread but can't find anything else. I ordered gh60 satan but received this:

It has labels 'gh60 rev 2.3' and 'SJZZ'. The problem is when I generate eep at tkg.io and then flash it with kairuy's toolkit I have a column '5tgv' not working. Exactly the same as described here: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/flashing-fw-on-a-gh60-hx-sjzz-columns-missing-t13639.html

Any advice would be helpfull