I like it ;D Looks solid as a rock. Reminds me of KMAC2 which is a good thing indeed.Yeah. It's hefty. The base is about 10mm thick. Screws would tap into the top from the base like you described, and here's the plate mounting. M3 tapped holes in the base, 3mm laser cut holes in the plate. Gaps for the screwheads will have to be added into the top but I haven't got around to it. I'll put some work into it later/tomorrow.
So, would it tap into the top and screw in from the base? Also I think we'd need the plate to screw to the base.
I have not thought about where the USB would go, totally spaced out on that one, heh. I'll have to get on that.
This is really nice, Photekq.Thanks man, much appreciated.
We're coming along pretty good. :) I'm slowly working on the layout and whatnot. I'm thinking it should be full LED, yes/no?
Photekq, I have some suggestions about the basic concepts.
I really think the case should support the entire back of the PCB. I am a big fan of adding a pad behind the PCB which would be impossible with your design. It really helps to absorb vibration, because there are no supports from standoffs in the middle of the matrix. Again, take the KMAC as an example, it's how they do it.
Check out this crude drawing to illustrate what I mean.
(Attachment Link)
Note the screws are perpendicular to the top face, not the bottom face. Wouldn't that be a more appropriate attachment for the two halves?
I can get you exact measurements. Hey what should we use for incline angle? Is there a standard for that?I don't think there's really a standard.. Filco is about 5.5 degrees without the feet up. I have it as 6 degrees on this case and on my tkl case.
Also, I think the screwholes should stay vertical. If they were at an angle they would take up more horizontal room. This would mean you'd have to make the front an back faces thicker which, imo, makes the case look worse.
What I'm saying is that they take up more space horizontally.
Love it! How do i make one? How do the sides attach to each other? How does the bottom attach to the sides? Are they all one piece? What are you designing it to be built out of?
Looks very neat & I'd love to make one :D Let me know!
-a
I think i have what it takesShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/S3c4Mdy.png)
What I'm saying is that they take up more space horizontally. See the diagram I've attached.
The problem is that in order to make the angled holes work you'd need to make either the front or side walls of the case thicker.
I may be wrong, but this is the way I see it. Maybe CPTBadAss would be able to help.
I think i have what it takesShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/S3c4Mdy.png)
Almost spat out my tea when I saw this
Word of advice:
Frame mounted plates at this form factor often cause resonance resulting in the "PING!" issue...
Adding a additional hole (or two) in the center for mounting the plate to the bottom part should help with this!
full-LED.
Got a first draft of the thing with full LED support. Looks like it will come together just fine.
(Attachment Link)
I've designed it with two indicator LEDs and three backlight zones. I think it gives plenty of utility as well as bling-factor.
(Attachment Link)
Okay so after all this time I still want one of these. I'm going get it fabbed. Before I do, I am offering to let anyone buy a prototype who wants one. This will help absorb the tooling cost.
Full disclosure: if you go for it, you are taking a risk. This is prototype. If there is a fatal design flaw I will only be able to manage a partial refund. This isn't my first time out, though.
Voice interest here and I will try to come up with cost. I'm going to make two for myself, no matter what.
I'm sure there's someone around here who could whip up a case for it.
It is a 31 key pad with full backlighting and can use Cherry MX plate mount or PCB mount switches/stabilizers. I will provide software but it could also use TMK if you wish.
I'm in for a prototype. Please make this from machined aluminum.
They will have all the SMD done. Just need to add switches, LEDs, and stabs. If you want I can provide LEDs since I'm going to be making a big Digikey order anyway.
Okay so before I finalize this board, what is the best placement of the LED for the 2x vertical keys?
Looks like the Ducky Shine puts the LEDs on the left. That's what I did in the current design. Any other opinions?
Okay looks like estimate for the parts was fairly close. For a low run like this, cost would be about $22 per PCB. That includes free soldering by me and with me paying almost all of the tooling cost.
Okay looks like estimate for the parts was fairly close. For a low run like this, cost would be about $22 per PCB. That includes free soldering by me and with me paying almost all of the tooling cost.
$22 for just the PCB and your soldering the SMD?
I'll still do at least one, hopefully 2 if I can find the money.
Math helps :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/CbHI4ru.png)
25 sets + 375 extra diodes yet $8 less
So since each set has 25 diodes, 25 sets have 625 diodes, costing $21.24.
Thus total for 25 sets including $5.23 shipping is: $183.48
Hence each set is ~$7.5.
We have 25 sets, 1 for everyone (Total 8 ) except me (4) and jdcarpe (11), that means we have 2 sets extra, raccoon you can keep them as I know you will be working on more customs, or if someone wants to buy, they can do that, since you are ordering raccoon, that is up to you, and if someone wants more, we can increase the order and maybe hit new tiers.
Also, update on the switched. I will be packaging them as 25 switches, just in case any comes out faulty or is damaged in transit. This pack would be for $9.
Costs thus far:
$6 - PCB
$13 - case
$7.5 - parts
$5 - shipping
$9 - switches
Resistors and LEDs extra.
Okay it's looking like this. I'm going to order in a few days. Then it will be a few weeks to get the boards in from China.
metalliqaz - 2
bearcat - 1
jdcarpe - 1
MOZ - 1
HakFoo - 1
inteli722 - 1
nubbinator - 1
Pacifist - 1
Okay it's looking like this. I'm going to order in a few days. Then it will be a few weeks to get the boards in from China.
metalliqaz - 2
bearcat - 1
jdcarpe - 1
MOZ - 1
HakFoo - 1
inteli722 - 1
nubbinator - 1
Pacifist - 1
F*ck Yes, dam this is sweet, and the perfect alternative to the razer orbweaver
So this is my first time making a board, and the first time having one in beta.
What extra do I need to do to make this board? I'm going to assume switches and a soldering kit at the very least. Are you supplying LEDs or no? Is there anything else I need to make it?
Also, If this is successful, then for other versions, will there be changes to the design or no?
This is really promising, and fits my needs so much :) But because its my first DIY board, I don't want to screw up
So this is my first time making a board, and the first time having one in beta.
What extra do I need to do to make this board? I'm going to assume switches and a soldering kit at the very least. Are you supplying LEDs or no? Is there anything else I need to make it?
Also, If this is successful, then for other versions, will there be changes to the design or no?
This is really promising, and fits my needs so much :) But because its my first DIY board, I don't want to screw up
So this is my first time making a board, and the first time having one in beta.
What extra do I need to do to make this board? I'm going to assume switches and a soldering kit at the very least. Are you supplying LEDs or no? Is there anything else I need to make it?
Also, If this is successful, then for other versions, will there be changes to the design or no?
This is really promising, and fits my needs so much :) But because its my first DIY board, I don't want to screw up
You need switches, stabilizers, LEDs, and keycaps. You need to do a bunch of through-hole soldering. Also you need a case. Don't forget about that.
If you want me to order you some LEDs, tell me now, because I can order it with the rest of the parts.
If it works correctly, this will be the last order. I don't have the energy for a real GB and honestly I think most people would rather get a GHpad. If enough people wanted, though, I would give someone the designs and let them do a buy.
Don't worry about screwing up. These are replaceable.
So this is my first time making a board, and the first time having one in beta.
What extra do I need to do to make this board? I'm going to assume switches and a soldering kit at the very least. Are you supplying LEDs or no? Is there anything else I need to make it?
Also, If this is successful, then for other versions, will there be changes to the design or no?
This is really promising, and fits my needs so much :) But because its my first DIY board, I don't want to screw up
You need switches, stabilizers, LEDs, and keycaps. You need to do a bunch of through-hole soldering. Also you need a case. Don't forget about that.
If you want me to order you some LEDs, tell me now, because I can order it with the rest of the parts.
If it works correctly, this will be the last order. I don't have the energy for a real GB and honestly I think most people would rather get a GHpad. If enough people wanted, though, I would give someone the designs and let them do a buy.
Don't worry about screwing up. These are replaceable.
Cool, will send you a PM.Need to buy some more novelty caps from you too.
Where do I get the case? Are you making them or someone else?
Also, is this PCB or plate mounted? If its plate mounted, did you design the PCB to have PCB mounted holes and having the plate more open so we can use PCB mounted switches and change around the switches without desoldering?
Thanks, this is a much needed addition to my mech collection!
It is a 31 key pad with full backlighting and can use Cherry MX plate mount or PCB mount switches/stabilizers. I will provide software but it could also use TMK if you wish.
So this is my first time making a board, and the first time having one in beta.
What extra do I need to do to make this board? I'm going to assume switches and a soldering kit at the very least. Are you supplying LEDs or no? Is there anything else I need to make it?
Also, If this is successful, then for other versions, will there be changes to the design or no?
This is really promising, and fits my needs so much :) But because its my first DIY board, I don't want to screw up
You need switches, stabilizers, LEDs, and keycaps. You need to do a bunch of through-hole soldering. Also you need a case. Don't forget about that.
If you want me to order you some LEDs, tell me now, because I can order it with the rest of the parts.
If it works correctly, this will be the last order. I don't have the energy for a real GB and honestly I think most people would rather get a GHpad. If enough people wanted, though, I would give someone the designs and let them do a buy.
Don't worry about screwing up. These are replaceable.
Cool, will send you a PM.Need to buy some more novelty caps from you too.
Where do I get the case? Are you making them or someone else?
Also, is this PCB or plate mounted? If its plate mounted, did you design the PCB to have PCB mounted holes and having the plate more open so we can use PCB mounted switches and change around the switches without desoldering?
Thanks, this is a much needed addition to my mech collection!
AFAIK MOZ has a case design for this, and he told me it'd be about $20/case.
metalliqaz explains it best:It is a 31 key pad with full backlighting and can use Cherry MX plate mount or PCB mount switches/stabilizers. I will provide software but it could also use TMK if you wish.
Really, the openess of the plate is up to the designer. I wonder how much Photekq's case would be...
So this is my first time making a board, and the first time having one in beta.
What extra do I need to do to make this board? I'm going to assume switches and a soldering kit at the very least. Are you supplying LEDs or no? Is there anything else I need to make it?
Also, If this is successful, then for other versions, will there be changes to the design or no?
This is really promising, and fits my needs so much :) But because its my first DIY board, I don't want to screw up
You need switches, stabilizers, LEDs, and keycaps. You need to do a bunch of through-hole soldering. Also you need a case. Don't forget about that.
If you want me to order you some LEDs, tell me now, because I can order it with the rest of the parts.
If it works correctly, this will be the last order. I don't have the energy for a real GB and honestly I think most people would rather get a GHpad. If enough people wanted, though, I would give someone the designs and let them do a buy.
Don't worry about screwing up. These are replaceable.
Cool, will send you a PM.Need to buy some more novelty caps from you too.
Where do I get the case? Are you making them or someone else?
Also, is this PCB or plate mounted? If its plate mounted, did you design the PCB to have PCB mounted holes and having the plate more open so we can use PCB mounted switches and change around the switches without desoldering?
Thanks, this is a much needed addition to my mech collection!
AFAIK MOZ has a case design for this, and he told me it'd be about $20/case.
metalliqaz explains it best:It is a 31 key pad with full backlighting and can use Cherry MX plate mount or PCB mount switches/stabilizers. I will provide software but it could also use TMK if you wish.
Really, the openess of the plate is up to the designer. I wonder how much Photekq's case would be...
Ah I see. Thanks. Probally will go caseless to start, and then get a proper case once I get everything I need.
There are 31 switches, and I want to try out clears. But to get the best price I would need to buy a 100 pack, leaving 69 switches unused ???
So this is my first time making a board, and the first time having one in beta.
What extra do I need to do to make this board? I'm going to assume switches and a soldering kit at the very least. Are you supplying LEDs or no? Is there anything else I need to make it?
Also, If this is successful, then for other versions, will there be changes to the design or no?
This is really promising, and fits my needs so much :) But because its my first DIY board, I don't want to screw up
You need switches, stabilizers, LEDs, and keycaps. You need to do a bunch of through-hole soldering. Also you need a case. Don't forget about that.
If you want me to order you some LEDs, tell me now, because I can order it with the rest of the parts.
If it works correctly, this will be the last order. I don't have the energy for a real GB and honestly I think most people would rather get a GHpad. If enough people wanted, though, I would give someone the designs and let them do a buy.
Don't worry about screwing up. These are replaceable.
Cool, will send you a PM.Need to buy some more novelty caps from you too.
Where do I get the case? Are you making them or someone else?
Also, is this PCB or plate mounted? If its plate mounted, did you design the PCB to have PCB mounted holes and having the plate more open so we can use PCB mounted switches and change around the switches without desoldering?
Thanks, this is a much needed addition to my mech collection!
AFAIK MOZ has a case design for this, and he told me it'd be about $20/case.
metalliqaz explains it best:It is a 31 key pad with full backlighting and can use Cherry MX plate mount or PCB mount switches/stabilizers. I will provide software but it could also use TMK if you wish.
Really, the openess of the plate is up to the designer. I wonder how much Photekq's case would be...
Ah I see. Thanks. Probally will go caseless to start, and then get a proper case once I get everything I need.
There are 31 switches, and I want to try out clears. But to get the best price I would need to buy a 100 pack, leaving 69 switches unused ???
I would be happy to buy those extras off you at a later date when I assemble mine. In fact, with my getting 2, that's nearly perfect.
I'm sure MOZ will whip himself up a nice acrylic job. He may share. I am creating something for myself that I will share, but it is aluminum and will be expensive in small quantities. When it's assembled I'll post photos.
Awesome to see this happening. I had totally forgotten about it. Could you share your plans for the aluminium housing? :thumb:
I will design an acrylic case for myself. However if the run for this happens anytime in the next couple of months, I might not be able to supply the case.
I can however at the least share the drawings for the case I design.
Exact location of the USB connector? And what USB connector?
I will design an acrylic case for myself. However if the run for this happens anytime in the next couple of months, I might not be able to supply the case.
I can however at the least share the drawings for the case I design.
If you share to scale designs, I should be able to do it at cost locally. I have a laser cutting place near me that's $30 an hour, $55 for two hours, or $95-140 for a month long membership (depending if I can still get a student membership or have to pay full price) and I know I could look around and find some acrylic at decent prices. I should also be able to do wood top and bottom pieces if people wanted that.
If you share to scale designs, I should be able to do it at cost locally. I have a laser cutting place near me that's $30 an hour, $55 for two hours, or $95-140 for a month long membership (depending if I can still get a student membership or have to pay full price) and I know I could look around and find some acrylic at decent prices. I should also be able to do wood top and bottom pieces if people wanted that.
I'd like wood if I can't get alum
How much would a wood case for this cost? I wouldn't assume it'd be absurdly expensive, considering that it's wood, and we chop down trees like maniacs.
How much would a wood case for this cost? I wouldn't assume it'd be absurdly expensive, considering that it's wood, and we chop down trees like maniacs.
The wood we chop down is pretty bad quality wood and probably not used in desks and cases etc
How much would a wood case for this cost? I wouldn't assume it'd be absurdly expensive, considering that it's wood, and we chop down trees like maniacs.
How much would a wood case for this cost? I wouldn't assume it'd be absurdly expensive, considering that it's wood, and we chop down trees like maniacs.
It would depend on how many people would want laser cutting done by me, the species of wood, and how cheaply I can find acrylic. I'd be donating my time, so it would only be materials cost and time on the laser cost. It could be as cheap as $20 or $30 and it could be a bit more.
I suggest you have a plan for a case before you build it. If you solder everything on PCB-mount and you end up wanting a case that is plate mount, you will be stuck.
I suggest you have a plan for a case before you build it. If you solder everything on PCB-mount and you end up wanting a case that is plate mount, you will be stuck.
So for plate mounted cases I would need to have it on hand before I build it? Ugh, wood or acrylic
What about those cases where there is extra room so you can take off switch covers without desoldering?
What about those cases where there is extra room so you can take off switch covers without desoldering?
Ah I see. So for those not making cases, who are you getting yours from?
I've decided to try something like this. The idea is to have it resemble a platform supported by four big posts with big old rubber feet on each corner.
Just sent it out for fabrication.
(Attachment Link)
Interesting. You don't see that many concave designs... it has a pleasing Space Age charm to it
Interesting. You don't see that many concave designs... it has a pleasing Space Age charm to it
I wanted to go with something different. Wasn't really going for "space age" but I can see that.
My inspiration was those glass bathroom scales
(Attachment Link)
However I couldn't really make the 4 posts nice and big without making the thing unwieldy, so I brought in the sides to thin out the look and accentuate the corners.
Interesting. You don't see that many concave designs... it has a pleasing Space Age charm to it
I wanted to go with something different. Wasn't really going for "space age" but I can see that.
My inspiration was those glass bathroom scales
(Attachment Link)
However I couldn't really make the 4 posts nice and big without making the thing unwieldy, so I brought in the sides to thin out the look and accentuate the corners.
We can try something like this, clear acrylic with large metallic feet.
Interesting. You don't see that many concave designs... it has a pleasing Space Age charm to it
I wanted to go with something different. Wasn't really going for "space age" but I can see that.
My inspiration was those glass bathroom scales
(Attachment Link)
However I couldn't really make the 4 posts nice and big without making the thing unwieldy, so I brought in the sides to thin out the look and accentuate the corners.
I love the design. About how much will it cost?
I like it. Its like the GH pad but has more keys. Where can I get one? :thumb:
I like it. Its like the GH pad but has more keys. Where can I get one? :thumb:
I like it. Its like the GH pad but has more keys. Where can I get one? :thumb:
If you are really down to buy one, keep checking back here. I will try to get one into the hands of everyone who wants one.
Man, I hate waiting. The PCB continues to work its way through fabrication and the guy doing the plates is taking longer than usual.
Mean time I was thinking about how to outfit this thing with keycaps. The difficulty comes from the the two extra 2x1 vertical keys on the thumb. Realistically the only keys that will work are blanks. If there was a way to buy blank numberpads, that would do the trick, those aren't exactly common. You could buy two blank DSA numpad sets from keycapsdirect for under $20 that would completely cover the qazpad. That's pretty good but I don't like DSA.
For DCS not much to do other than use + and Enter vertical keys from kits laying around. Speak up if you have any ideas.
7bit's R5 presents an opportunity... The ergodox kit has a bunch of the vertical keys. 2x HONEY/NUMPAD (21*2=$42) and 1x HONEY/ERGOBASE ($29) would be able to completely cover two qazpads for $36 each. Of course, all kinds of other kits would be desirable to fill out the top row with meaningful legends, and that gets expensive quick. Could take some from a HONEY/STANDARD if you were going to get that anyway, I guess. HONEY/MOD100, HONEY/MODEXTRA100, HONEY/CURSORBASE, and HONEY/CURSOR/R3 would be useful also.
Okay, well... good talk. G'night
qaz, waiting on the cad file with correct location and size of USB along with the reset switch if it is present.
Can't wait! Don't know how to do 3D modeling so I'll be buying a case.
The GHpad case is really sexy, so I'm sure he canCan't wait! Don't know how to do 3D modeling so I'll be buying a case.
Undoubtedly MOZ will whip up something good.
I screwed up big time. Ordered the wrong amount of ATmega controllers and now I don't have enough and they are out of stock everywhere. Not sure if they are going to be restocked or what.
I screwed up big time. Ordered the wrong amount of ATmega controllers and now I don't have enough and they are out of stock everywhere. Not sure if they are going to be restocked or what.
What controller are you using? I have some extras, so I could let mine go to someone else.
It's okay. False alarm. Mouser has them in stock.
At least they're almost here. I won't be fully building this until I get my stickers from moz and/or figure out a way to be able to remove the switch tops with LEDs soldered in
At least they're almost here. I won't be fully building this until I get my stickers from moz and/or figure out a way to be able to remove the switch tops with LEDs soldered in
If you modify the switch tops before putting the LEDs in, it is possible to create removable tops that can come off without having to desolder the LEDs.
The PCBs are just a few miles from my house but I have to wait until Monday. ugh I hate that.
The more I look at the layout, it'd make a nice compact gaming board like the razor thingy as long as the board supports programmable keys.
Personally I'm going to move the numlock key to the top left corner, because I don't want to accidentally press it in game
Personally I'm going to move the numlock key to the top left corner, because I don't want to accidentally press it in game
Ain't nothing wrong with that. If you want I can give you a custom binary that moves the NumLock LED up there.
That looks awesome! Is there anyway I could acquire a PCB?
That looks awesome! Is there anyway I could acquire a PCB?
Yes, I'm pretty sure I will have extra. I'll add you to the list.
The missing silkscreen, a mistake on your end or theirs?
That was my first thought JDCarpe, but I checked the order...
(Attachment Link)
Worst fear confirmed. The board contains a design defect. I left the crystal ungrounded. $150 down the drain :facepalm:
Worst fear confirmed. The board contains a design defect. I left the crystal ungrounded. $150 down the drain :facepalm:
Worst fear confirmed. The board contains a design defect. I left the crystal ungrounded. $150 down the drain :facepalm:
Oh shaite! We could quick-fix it? Expose ground-plane near by and use a small jumper?
Worst fear confirmed. The board contains a design defect. I left the crystal ungrounded. $150 down the drain :facepalm:
Oh shaite! We could quick-fix it? Expose ground-plane near by and use a small jumper?
Luckily the filled planes are GND. I just went downstairs and scraped off the mask and tried to short the pads to the plane with a solder blob. I think it worked, but it's ugly as hell. I'm going to keep building this first board to see if I can get it working. *sigh*It should work as long as the filled plane is grounded, don't worry :)
Don't worry I got this. I'm just a perfectionist so this upsets me.
I just programmed it, let's see how the software works...
7bit's R5 presents an opportunity... The ergodox kit has a bunch of the vertical keys. 2x HONEY/NUMPAD (21*2=$42) and 1x HONEY/ERGOBASE ($29) would be able to completely cover two qazpads for $36 each. Of course, all kinds of other kits would be desirable to fill out the top row with meaningful legends, and that gets expensive quick. Could take some from a HONEY/STANDARD if you were going to get that anyway, I guess. HONEY/MOD100, HONEY/MODEXTRA100, HONEY/CURSORBASE, and HONEY/CURSOR/R3 would be useful also.
7bit's R5 presents an opportunity... The ergodox kit has a bunch of the vertical keys. 2x HONEY/NUMPAD (21*2=$42) and 1x HONEY/ERGOBASE ($29) would be able to completely cover two qazpads for $36 each. Of course, all kinds of other kits would be desirable to fill out the top row with meaningful legends, and that gets expensive quick. Could take some from a HONEY/STANDARD if you were going to get that anyway, I guess. HONEY/MOD100, HONEY/MODEXTRA100, HONEY/CURSORBASE, and HONEY/CURSOR/R3 would be useful also.
I'm ordering some R5. If anyone wants to split an ERGOBASE with me, let me know now and I will add it to my order and send it out with the PCB.
They are SA profile, Gray blank. Actually now I'm starting to have doubts. They are just so expensive! I ordered some DSA and DCS blanks from SP that should be enough. Oh well.
They are SA profile, Gray blank. Actually now I'm starting to have doubts. They are just so expensive! I ordered some DSA and DCS blanks from SP that should be enough. Oh well.
Link?
They are SA profile, Gray blank. Actually now I'm starting to have doubts. They are just so expensive! I ordered some DSA and DCS blanks from SP that should be enough. Oh well.
Link?
You don't know about Round 5???
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Round_5
Found another error :'(
It appears I managed to confuse myself by looking at the bottom layer (which is flipped). Sooo.... now my transistors are installed upside-down with more solder blobs, lol
TIL always do an extra review.
Are the PCB's that are being sent out for everybody else going to be fixed?
Quick and dirty backlighting modes with no caps and the pad outside of a case.
Sorry I don't have any extra switches and I'm running really low on stabilizers :(
It might not look very Apple-esque but it does look a bit like a bathroom scale, so you did okay. Piqued my interest.
As to interests ... since dedicated arrow keys are so incredibly uncommon on 60% boards ... WHAT THE **** IS THAT YELLOW AND PURPLE THING?!?!
...and can I have the parts to make one of those?
...For science, of course...
Get your paypal ready guys. Now that I have some holiday time off, I'm building these up. You will be getting PMs from me soon.
How much will the pcb+controller soldered on cost?Like I've said all along, $20.
And you still have my keycaps on hand right :pI haven't the slightest clue. That business can be concluded when money changes hands.
I should have a case design ready in next couple of days, basically it will be the same shape as the reference design, unless some people want it to be the plain-jane rectangular shape.
Yeah, I'll club shipping.
It will be like the GHPad case, rectangular shape 5 layers, top one being plate as well.
Colors that will be available:
Clear
Clear Matte
Black
Black Matte
White
Orange
Pink
Blue
Smoke
Anyone that is getting the PCB please let me know in the next 2 days what colors you want.
Yeah, I'll club shipping.
It will be like the GHPad case, rectangular shape 5 layers, top one being plate as well.
Colors that will be available:
Clear
Clear Matte
Black
Black Matte
White
Orange
Pink
Blue
Smoke
Anyone that is getting the PCB please let me know in the next 2 days what colors you want.
oooh nice
do you have pictures of what the acrylic looks like?
specifically clear matte, black matte, smoke and pink?
Clear and Smoke:
http://i.imgur.com/gsjL81f.jpg
Clear Matte:
I'll post a picture, but is it clear frosted looking.
Black and Black Matte:
http://i.imgur.com/GX5AdqA.jpg
Orange:
http://i.imgur.com/oyWiUvA.jpg
Pink:
http://i.imgur.com/WHXcFXr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VxaMEuh.jpg
Blue:
http://i.imgur.com/yTKijeY.jpg
Moz I'd like to give your PCB free of charge for doing this.
And if you're willing to share the files, I'd love to have some Corel compatible file for the top and bottom since I really want to try a wood top and bottom for mine.
perfect! you‘re going to make cutouts to open the switches without desoldering right?
perfect! you‘re going to make cutouts to open the switches without desoldering right?
Thanks Mozbro but mine is already in a case :)
Do you have a tutorial for soldering the diodes when we get the pcb's and case? Its my first time soldering and I don't want to mess up
Do you have a tutorial for soldering the diodes when we get the pcb's and case? Its my first time soldering and I don't want to mess up
I will solder a few of your diodes to show you how they go. Search YouTube for soldering tutorials.
The secret is to have good tools, and to use less solder.
By the way I checked your white LEDs with one of the completed boards today. Really bright. Looks nice.
Okay cool, thanks, then looks like most is sorted. Case should be just about done then.
More info for when the PCBs arrive. This is the default layout they come with:
(Attachment Link)
So, to get it into the bootloader, it's Fn, then period.
Okay cool, thanks, then looks like most is sorted. Case should be just about done then.
Any eta on when we can get the cases and the cost? Are you still taking finals?
Okay cool, thanks, then looks like most is sorted. Case should be just about done then.
Any eta on when we can get the cases and the cost? Are you still taking finals?
Price is $22 including PP and shipping.
I will upload the design later tonight and have these cut possibly tomorrow or day after for sure. Next weeke I will start sending these out, I have to send out some 200 packages which includes stickers and keyring GB and other random stuff, so it would possibly take multiple days to get everything out, I will club together items from different GBs and orders for the same address.
Whoever wants the case, please PM me your PayPal email ID, adress including phone number and the colors for the layers.
Maybe you can try to fix the countersink on the holes on this one so the case can use flat head screws and have them be flush?
Maybe you can try to fix the countersink on the holes on this one so the case can use flat head screws and have them be flush?
I like option 2, MOZ, where the middle layers stick out a bit.
Invoice sent to jdcarpe, Pacifist, hakfoo and nubbinator for @ $22.
jdcarpe, Pacifist, nubs have been discounted $3 since I have to ship them some stuff, so they saved on some shipping.
jdcarpe and my case will have the slightly broder mid section, for everyone else the case will be uniform.
If someone still wants the case or wants to make changes, they can still be done by Friday this week as my exams have been rescheduled so I couldn't get the cases cut yet.
Just installed all the diodes in my PCB. Now I can't wait to assemble it and test it out. I may just have to go get some wood and laser cut the top and bottom so I can at least get the switches installed.
I'm also debating flipping the LEDs around and installing them underneath so I get a glowing effect through the frosted clear plexi or going with a SIP mod so I can swap the colors. Decisions decisions.
I noticed that the switches for the vertical 2X keys are sideways compared to the other keys. On my g80, those sideways vertical keys are also sideways. Cherry keys stems are not perfectly the same size, so there could be problems with the stems. Is this an accident, or are we supposed to use specific caps?
I'm also debating flipping the LEDs around and installing them underneath so I get a glowing effect through the frosted clear plexi or going with a SIP mod so I can swap the colors. Decisions decisions.
I noticed that the switches for the vertical 2X keys are sideways compared to the other keys. On my g80, those sideways vertical keys are also sideways. Cherry keys stems are not perfectly the same size, so there could be problems with the stems. Is this an accident, or are we supposed to use specific caps?
Any caps will fit. Caps not made for the 2x vertical will be tighter than usual, but it's no big deal.
Is there a "Lamp test mode" in the software package?
I'm waiting on a case to construct it fully, but I figure I can install the diodes and LEDs and test for functionality/correct polarity while I wait.
Is there a "Lamp test mode" in the software package?
I'm waiting on a case to construct it fully, but I figure I can install the diodes and LEDs and test for functionality/correct polarity while I wait.
You can't install LEDs before you install the switches, but you can do what I did when I tested them after soldering. Just plug it in and it will turn on all the backlights by default. Then you can just touch the LED holes with the leads of an LED to test it. Once you've installed the diodes, you can just short the switch holes with some metal and it will actuate.
I'm going to buy some stabs from imsto, it costs $10 for 6 2X plus the spacebar stabs, and then the $10 for shipping. Does anyone want to group up with me for the orders to save on shipping? I'm also buying two packets of cleaning goo and some O ringsI needed some red translucent acrylic for some other work, so I have that.
Also moz do you have red acrylic or is it just pink?
I'm going to buy some stabs from imsto, it costs $10 for 6 2X plus the spacebar stabs, and then the $10 for shipping. Does anyone want to group up with me for the orders to save on shipping? I'm also buying two packets of cleaning goo and some O ringsI needed some red translucent acrylic for some other work, so I have that.
Also moz do you have red acrylic or is it just pink?
I'm going to buy some stabs from imsto, it costs $10 for 6 2X plus the spacebar stabs, and then the $10 for shipping. Does anyone want to group up with me for the orders to save on shipping? I'm also buying two packets of cleaning goo and some O ringsI needed some red translucent acrylic for some other work, so I have that.
Also moz do you have red acrylic or is it just pink?
Oh sweet. Can you change my middle pink layer to red? Thank you so much!
And translucent too! Even better
I'm going to buy some stabs from imsto, it costs $10 for 6 2X plus the spacebar stabs, and then the $10 for shipping. Does anyone want to group up with me for the orders to save on shipping? I'm also buying two packets of cleaning goo and some O ringsI needed some red translucent acrylic for some other work, so I have that.
Also moz do you have red acrylic or is it just pink?
Oh sweet. Can you change my middle pink layer to red? Thank you so much!
And translucent too! Even better
Got it.
I assume a premature question since everyone doesn't seem to have all their v1 / prototype units put together yet, but…
Will there be another run? A post from a long time ago said it was a one-time deal, but it never hurts to ask...
welp moz still hasn't gotten the cases out
tempted to just solder on the switches but I don't have a desoldering pump
@metalliqaz, how is the pad so far?
welp moz still hasn't gotten the cases out
tempted to just solder on the switches but I don't have a desoldering pump
@metalliqaz, how is the pad so far?
welp moz still hasn't gotten the cases out
tempted to just solder on the switches but I don't have a desoldering pump
@metalliqaz, how is the pad so far?
Just an FYI moz stated elsewhere he won't be back in India until the middle of February.
Not even entire new cases, just the part that is at the same level as the PCB. The rest of the layers don't have to change.
I can get new cases cut, priced slightly lower at $20, without any of the hardware (Stand-offs, screws, rubber feet) since you already have them.
If everyone is cool with it, we can get this done with real quick.
I missed the post today so I'll not have a look until Monday. I'm going to try and hack it. Nothing to lose, really.
Uh so I was putting on PCB mounted cherry stabs. For all the stabs except the inner stab on the "extended" part of the numpad the holes are in the wrong direction. The big holes are the sides with the wire, and with PCB mounted stabs, the stab wire goes in the position of the diode. I broke a diode trying to put the stab in with these holes. Tried reversing it but alas pcb mounted stabs don't like it that way.
Anyways, I was fiddling around with the board and realized that if you just completely take out the second to top layer, you can get the whole thing put together. Its a bit tight and ugly having that empty space, but it works. The PCB sits on the middle layer.
Uh so I was putting on PCB mounted cherry stabs. For all the stabs except the inner stab on the "extended" part of the numpad the holes are in the wrong direction. The big holes are the sides with the wire, and with PCB mounted stabs, the stab wire goes in the position of the diode. I broke a diode trying to put the stab in with these holes. Tried reversing it but alas pcb mounted stabs don't like it that way.
Anyways, I was fiddling around with the board and realized that if you just completely take out the second to top layer, you can get the whole thing put together. Its a bit tight and ugly having that empty space, but it works. The PCB sits on the middle layer.
The hits keep on coming! *facepalm* the solution will be to install those diodes upside-down
I'm in line at the post office now. Huge line, nobody working the desks. F'ing government...
Pictures looking really great guys! Pacifist, do you have a bigger one of your avatar? It looks really sweet
Wow. Much nice. How?
Can you post a side shot so I can see which layers need recut.
Clear matte will do?
Ok. I was asking because the short ones seem to barely reach the brass f/f standoff , so I didn't know if it was supposed to have one side with longer ones.
Any chance to get my hands on one of these?
I'm interested in one, but I'm willing to wait until the second batch though since a bunch of people probably asked before me.Any chance to get my hands on one of these?
I have ordered new ATmega32U4 chips so I should be able to build up the last few examples in the remaining weeks. I've been getting flooded with requests for PCBs, so I'm not sure how the last three should be divided up. I could also run another batch if there's enough interest.
At the moment, nowhere. I'm trying to find the time to build up the last few boards for sale, but it is slow going.I'd be in for one if you do an interest check. ;)
Perhaps I will create an [IC] thread for a round 2. I have had many requests about it.
Can anybody make me an STL file for this? Don't understand blender and all I got was nothing :'(
At the moment, nowhere. I'm trying to find the time to build up the last few boards for sale, but it is slow going.I'd be in for one if you do an interest check. ;)
Perhaps I will create an [IC] thread for a round 2. I have had many requests about it.
At the moment, nowhere. I'm trying to find the time to build up the last few boards for sale, but it is slow going.
Perhaps I will create an [IC] thread for a round 2. I have had many requests about it.
Can anybody make me an STL file for this? Don't understand blender and all I got was nothing :'(
Anybody? My CAD is ****. Just need the middle layer that has been revised
I can do CAD, but I've never done PCB work with it. Is that what you need, a PCB construction?
Yes, it is possible, though not for beginners.
Yes, it is possible, though not for beginners.
Yes, it is possible, though not for beginners.
I'm looking at the Gerbers and it appears everything is here. Does the version you shared here include the missing GND you noted on Page 4?
Also, would you be willing to share a short parts list? Mainly I'm just looking for the Molex part number for the MUSB connector so I can order it, and if there's a specific flavor of ATmega32U4 I should be shopping for.
Sorry to keep bumping an old project. Just looking for information... Thanks. :)
hmm, you know, I may have some unused PCBs in my basement. I'll give a look around
hmm, you know, I may have some unused PCBs in my basement. I'll give a look around
Rise, thread! RISE!
Forgive the bump. Did any leftover PCBs ever turn up, metalliqaz? Still interested in making one of these someday.
I'll also upload the case files this weekend. Promise.Wasn't there a problem with the pcb not fitting or something?
I'll also upload the case files this weekend. Promise.Wasn't there a problem with the pcb not fitting or something?
Yes, I have two of them, but they aren't built.
Yes, I have two of them, but they aren't built.
Does that mean the controller isn't soldered? I'd be willing to do that part myself (though I've never done one before) if you don't have the time. The PCBs were going to be the greatest expense/headache for me (just getting them fabricated) so if you've got one you'd be willing to sell me you'd be doing me a huge favor and saving me a lot of time already. But if you've also got the components and you want to stick them on there I won't argue. :D
I'm just thrilled that you found them.
Did you say these problems were fixed in the most recent gerbers? It might still be easier to just have a few boards printed. Would you be OK with me selling a few excess PCBs at cost to help cover the expense of having them made? The controller soldering would still be a challenge. I dunno what to do. :pYes, I have two of them, but they aren't built.
Does that mean the controller isn't soldered? I'd be willing to do that part myself (though I've never done one before) if you don't have the time. The PCBs were going to be the greatest expense/headache for me (just getting them fabricated) so if you've got one you'd be willing to sell me you'd be doing me a huge favor and saving me a lot of time already. But if you've also got the components and you want to stick them on there I won't argue. :D
I'm just thrilled that you found them.
Yes, they will require all the SMD soldering to put together. The controller is tough for newbies, but that isn't even the biggest problem.
The initial run of boards was defective. There were three issues.
- The silkscreen on the back wasn't printed, so there is no guide for which parts go where. This is fairly easy to work around by using the gerber plots as a guide.
- The LED driver transistors are wired wrong. This means that the parts have to be installed upside-down by bending their pins.
- The GND pads on the clock chip aren't connected. This is the hardest to work around. Some of the solder mask has to be scraped off near one of the pads, then a bridge constructed with some small wire. It's ugly and easy to make a mistake.
The result is that I doubt that anyone else will be able to build these things. Unfortunately, work keeps me very busy and my time typically goes for $50/hr. I'll try and get these out if I have time, but at the very least I'd have to sell them for something like $45. (a substantial discount)
Did you say these problems were fixed in the most recent gerbers? It might still be easier to just have a few boards printed. Would you be OK with me selling a few excess PCBs at cost to help cover the expense of having them made? The controller soldering would still be a challenge. I dunno what to do. :p
I'm down for one! This looks like a cool project!Sorry, this project is dead. :( Maybe the GH36 can work for you?
Yes, it is possible, though not for beginners.
I'm looking at the Gerbers and it appears everything is here. Does the version you shared here include the missing GND you noted on Page 4?
Also, would you be willing to share a short parts list? Mainly I'm just looking for the Molex part number for the MUSB connector so I can order it, and if there's a specific flavor of ATmega32U4 I should be shopping for.
Sorry to keep bumping an old project. Just looking for information... Thanks. :)
I believe the final posted version includes fixes for the known problems. I think I can find a parts list, let me look....
ATmega32u4 microcontroller (1) ATMEGA32U4-AU-ND
USB Connector (1) WM5461CT-ND
10uF Tantalum Cap 1206 (1) 399-3684-1-ND
Crystal 16MHz (1) 535-10907-1-ND
MMBT2222A NPN transistor (3) MMBT2222ATPMSCT-ND
22 ohm Resistor 0603 (2) P22GCT-ND
1k Resistor 0603 (1) P1.0KGCT-ND
10pF Capacitor 0603 (2) 1276-1027-1-ND
0.1uf Capacitor 0603 (4) 445-1316-1-ND
1uF Capacitor 0603 (1) 445-1604-1-ND
Diode 1206 (31) 1N4148W-FDICT-ND
470 ohm Resistor 0603 for LED (31) P470GCT-ND
Yes I bought my parts from Digikey. There are lots of parts. Starting with the AVR chip. There are diodes, resistors, capacitors, and the USB connector, etc. I might be able to find a Digikey parts list.Yes, it is possible, though not for beginners.
I'm looking at the Gerbers and it appears everything is here. Does the version you shared here include the missing GND you noted on Page 4?
Also, would you be willing to share a short parts list? Mainly I'm just looking for the Molex part number for the MUSB connector so I can order it, and if there's a specific flavor of ATmega32U4 I should be shopping for.
Sorry to keep bumping an old project. Just looking for information... Thanks. :)
I believe the final posted version includes fixes for the known problems. I think I can find a parts list, let me look....
ATmega32u4 microcontroller(1)ATMEGA32U4-AU-ND
USB Connector(1)WM5461CT-ND
10uF Tantalum Cap 1206(1)399-3684-1-ND
Crystal 16MHz(1)535-10907-1-ND
MMBT2222A NPN transistor(3)MMBT2222ATPMSCT-ND
22 ohm Resistor 0603(2)P22GCT-ND
1k Resistor 0603(1)P1.0KGCT-ND
10pF Capacitor 0603(2)1276-1027-1-ND
0.1uf Capacitor 0603(4)445-1316-1-ND
1uF Capacitor 0603(1)445-1604-1-ND
Diode 1206(31)1N4148W-FDICT-ND
470 ohm Resistor 0603 for LED(31)P470GCT-ND
I am new here and I have a few questions regarding this prodjcet. Recently I used the gerber files and printed the board. Now I realized that I have to solder each component. Which components do i need to buy if I am not planning on having leds? And did you buy the components from Digikey? Also, could you post a picture or a guide so i know where to sodder each part. This is my first time doing a project like this. I have 4 extra board if anyone wants to buy them.