The Living Soldering Thread

[BlueBär]

Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together.

Show Image

I'm pretty sure that's just dirt. See that "lip" on the tip? I think that is what holds it together.

[HPE1000]

Building my first board tomorrow or tuesday, 488(?) solder points. 

Thanks for all the help from this thread, I think I am ready.

[BlueBär]

Building my first board tomorrow or tuesday, 488(?) solder points. 

Thanks for all the help from this thread, I think I am ready.

Good luck!

[stancato9]

Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together.

Show Image

I'm pretty sure that's just dirt. See that "lip" on the tip? I think that is what holds it together.

I've come to the conclusion that it is unfixable. The lip just started falling apart and was very soft. Thanks for the help though!

[BlueBär]

I've come to the conclusion that it is unfixable. The lip just started falling apart and was very soft. Thanks for the help though!

That's really weird O.o

[jorgenslee]

I'm contemplating on purchasing this one:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57532.0

Is it recommended for a beginner to mid desoldering? How about it's quality? I was kinda tired of using cheap soldapullt which have end up me destroying the pcb for too much heat applied.

[Pacifist]

Aren't mkawa's soldapults going to be sold for $30 too?

[BlueBär]

I'm contemplating on purchasing this one:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57532.0

Is it recommended for a beginner to mid desoldering? How about it's quality? I was kinda tired of using cheap soldapullt which have end up me destroying the pcb for too much heat applied.

If you apply too much heat that is not the fault auf your sodapullt?

[jorgenslee]

I'm contemplating on purchasing this one:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57532.0

Is it recommended for a beginner to mid desoldering? How about it's quality? I was kinda tired of using cheap soldapullt which have end up me destroying the pcb for too much heat applied.

If you apply too much heat that is not the fault auf your sodapullt?

Yeah I guess, but the cheap one I tried sometimes failed in the first try resulting to many attempts on sucking the solder. In the end too much heat is applied.

[BlueBär]

Yeah I guess, but the cheap one I tried sometimes failed in the first try resulting to many attempts on sucking the solder. In the end too much heat is applied.

Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...

[jorgenslee]

Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...

Usually in 300-350C. that's the recommended temps right?

[margo baggins]

Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...

Usually in 300-350C. that's the recommended temps right?

Yeah fine - I normally leave my station on 350 for 60/40 solder.

If your first attempt to suck the solder up fails - re fill the hole, and then heat it until you see the solder drop into the hole, then try again, but this second time, before you use the solderpult, try to just heat for a little longer.

Heat doesn't really kill stuff (I know it does, but it doesn't really for us building keyboards) but it's more about having too much load and a bad thermal interface ie. heating the wrong bit, or just having an iron with loads of watts. I tend to do all my soldering with a 35w iron, as I use leaded solder - desoldering I have a 70w vacuum powered station so I can easily desolder stock boards that have ROHS solder.

[phoenix1234]

If your first attempt to suck the solder up fails - re fill the hole, and then heat it until you see the solder drop into the hole, then try again, but this second time, before you use the solderpult, try to just heat for a little longer.

+1 

Yeah I guess, but the cheap one I tried sometimes failed in the first try resulting to many attempts on sucking the solder. In the end too much heat is applied.

Ok, I think I understand your situation.
I think you used a weak desoldering pump. So you need to use it multiple times in order to desolder a single key switch.

In order to desolder keyboard switch, you should better use a desoldering pump with at least 40cm-Hg suction capability, which is like this one

http://www.edsyn.com/product/DHT/DS017.html
You can contact mkawa if you want to purchase a good and authentic one.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54316.0

[jorgenslee]

Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...

Usually in 300-350C. that's the recommended temps right?

Yeah fine - I normally leave my station on 350 for 60/40 solder.

If your first attempt to suck the solder up fails - re fill the hole, and then heat it until you see the solder drop into the hole, then try again, but this second time, before you use the solderpult, try to just heat for a little longer.

Heat doesn't really kill stuff (I know it does, but it doesn't really for us building keyboards) but it's more about having too much load and a bad thermal interface ie. heating the wrong bit, or just having an iron with loads of watts. I tend to do all my soldering with a 35w iron, as I use leaded solder - desoldering I have a 70w vacuum powered station so I can easily desolder stock boards that have ROHS solder.

Thanks. Quite new to some of the terms you have mentioned. I better check the OP and wikis.

[stancato9]

Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?

It has never had an LED installed in that switch.

I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.

If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.

[phoenix1234]

Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?
It has never had an LED installed in that switch.
I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.
If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.

I think other members already faced and had a resolution for this.
You can use search function for further information.
For example:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48803.0

[stancato9]

Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?
It has never had an LED installed in that switch.
I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.
If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.

I think other members already faced and had a resolution for this.
You can use search function for further information.
For example:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48803.0

Show Image

What am I supposed to be looking at? I didn't destroy the pads at all. It's fresh and has never had an LED installed.

[BlueBär]

Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?

It has never had an LED installed in that switch.

I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.

If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.

Maybe the soldering or the LED is bad? Try soldering in a new one.

[stancato9]

Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?

It has never had an LED installed in that switch.

I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.

If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.

Thanks BlueBar,

I have tried mutiple LEDs and redone the soldering job. I have also removed all solder and put the leads in without soldering and bent them around. Even when it does come on, it's extremely dim in comparison to the same white LEDs I have on the other swithces.

Maybe the soldering or the LED is bad? Try soldering in a new one.

[BlueBär]

Thanks BlueBar,

I have tried mutiple LEDs and redone the soldering job. I have also removed all solder and put the leads in without soldering and bent them around. Even when it does come on, it's extremely dim in comparison to the same white LEDs I have on the other swithces.

Maybe a resistor for the LED is broken? Not sure.

[HPE1000]

The reason you cannot add an led to it is because the left windows key also functions as caps lock(I think) if you use a dip switch. This is normal, although it should have had an led inside of it to begin with.

Source: I just added leds to my poker last night

[pichu23]

The reason you cannot add an led to it is because the left windows key also functions as caps lock(I think) if you use a dip switch. This is normal, although it should have had an led inside of it to begin with.

Source: I just added leds to my poker last night

My Poker 2 has a LED in the left win key as well. But it's a white coloured one. Probably same as the one on the caps lock indicator.

[stancato9]

Okay so I guess I will use the pads from the unused switch on the pcb above.

How do I do this? I soldered some LED leads to the pads and when I touch an LED to them it lights up.

But, if I put that LED through the switch and then touch the two, it does not.

Now, do I have to remove the pads? I'm confused.

[minho]

Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.

Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).

[Pacifist]

If I take this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C5HUI8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A136TEY25G8OA7

put on back of fan, will it be a solder fume sucker?

[tjcaustin]

If I take this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C5HUI8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A136TEY25G8OA7

put on back of fan, will it be a solder fume sucker?

Not a good one.  kawa has a write up linked in here somewhere of one he built with a flat rate box.

[HoffmanMyster]

Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.

Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).

This might not be the most productive advice, but it's certainly exactly what I did when I lived in the dorms.

I just used my soldering iron.  My roommate and I were both EE and needed to solder, so we just did.  We also used a toaster and a hot plate though, so we weren't exactly model dorm tenants.  On the flip side, however, our dorm also flooded with sewage, so the dorm wasn't exactly a model...dorm...either.

Anyway, that's the best advice I can offer.

[minho]

Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.

Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).

This might not be the most productive advice, but it's certainly exactly what I did when I lived in the dorms.

I just used my soldering iron.  My roommate and I were both EE and needed to solder, so we just did.  We also used a toaster and a hot plate though, so we weren't exactly model dorm tenants.  On the flip side, however, our dorm also flooded with sewage, so the dorm wasn't exactly a model...dorm...either.

So basically just solder in secret and hope my roommate is chill?

Anyway, that's the best advice I can offer.

Yea, I suppose this question has too many other variables to it to be answered that adequately. I was just hoping for some clever ideas of places to solder or something. It was mostly a desperation/panic post after the thought occurred to me today

[HoffmanMyster]

Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.

Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).

This might not be the most productive advice, but it's certainly exactly what I did when I lived in the dorms.

I just used my soldering iron.  My roommate and I were both EE and needed to solder, so we just did.  We also used a toaster and a hot plate though, so we weren't exactly model dorm tenants.  On the flip side, however, our dorm also flooded with sewage, so the dorm wasn't exactly a model...dorm...either.

So basically just solder in secret and hope my roommate is chill?

Anyway, that's the best advice I can offer.

Yea, I suppose this question has too many other variables to it to be answered that adequately. I was just hoping for some clever ideas of places to solder or something. It was mostly a desperation/panic post after the thought occurred to me today

Well honestly I don't think I met anyone in my time at college who wouldn't be okay with me soldering in the room.  xD  But maybe that's just lucky of me.

As for other more productive ideas: do you have any labs you could get access to?  If you have any EE labs you might be able to get time in them to work on projects such as this, but I don't really know for sure.

[mkawa]

another link to my flat rate box KING OF SOLDER fume SUCKERS

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40060.msg791820#msg791820

[Pacifist]

got two issues:

issue #1: Spacebar doesn't work. Desoldered the key, saw that the pins were rusted, so I put in a new one. Still doesnt work and I see gunk surrounding the pads. Think previous owner must have spilled something. Gunk is pretty hard to get out

edit: going to put wires from spacebar to menu key and remap menu to spacebar
edit2: it worked! spacebar now works through AHK

issue #2: (different board) '" cap doesn't work. Looked at PCB, one of the pads on the PCB was physically lose from the PCB. Desoldered, ended up peeling off the pad. Solder won't flow accross the gap to the traces, what do?

[infiniti]

Could I use this to clean flux from PCBs?

Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner: http://www.cyclo.com/C87.html

Safety Data Sheet: http://cyclo.com/MSDS/SDS/C87_SDS.pdf

[phoenix1234]

Could I use this to clean flux from PCBs?

Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner: http://www.cyclo.com/C87.html

Safety Data Sheet: http://cyclo.com/MSDS/SDS/C87_SDS.pdf

I'm not sure about that but I'm pretty sure this MG Chemical 824 Isopropyl Alcohol will work perfectly
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaners/electronic-cleaners/isopropyl-alcohol-824/

Edit: After checking, I think the Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner is for cleaning the contact points, so I don't think it works for flux cleaning purpose
http://www.cyclo.com/PDF/pis/ENG/C87_ENG.pdf
"Removes soil and other contaminants from electrical and electronic parts"

[infiniti]

Could I use this to clean flux from PCBs?

Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner: http://www.cyclo.com/C87.html

Safety Data Sheet: http://cyclo.com/MSDS/SDS/C87_SDS.pdf

I'm not sure about that but I'm pretty sure this MG Chemical 824 Isopropyl Alcohol will work perfectly
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaners/electronic-cleaners/isopropyl-alcohol-824/

Edit: After checking, I think the Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner is for cleaning the contact points, so I don't think it works for flux cleaning purpose
http://www.cyclo.com/PDF/pis/ENG/C87_ENG.pdf
"Removes soil and other contaminants from electrical and electronic parts"

I see.  Can I use 70% isopropyl alcohol?

[phoenix1234]

I see.  Can I use 70% isopropyl alcohol?

If you already had it, you can try it. If you didn't, you should go for 99% because I think 70% isopropyl alcohol (+30% water) is very weak for cleaning flux residue. That doesn't count the fact that there is 30% of water left on the surface after cleaning. That's why 99% isopropyl alcohol is recommended.

[infiniti]

I see.  Can I use 70% isopropyl alcohol?

If you already had it, you can try it. If you didn't, you should go for 99% because I think 70% isopropyl alcohol (+30% water) is very weak for cleaning flux residue. That doesn't count the fact that there is 30% of water left on the surface after cleaning. That's why 99% isopropyl alcohol is recommended.

Tried a little on one part of the PCB and a soft toothbrush.  It got some out but is it normal that the PCB feels a bit tacky/sticky after?

[phoenix1234]

Tried a little on one part of the PCB and a soft toothbrush.  It got some out but is it normal that the PCB feels a bit tacky/sticky after?

It should be dry and clean. If it is still sticky, the residue is still there.
You should apply stronger dis-solvent.

[infiniti]

Tried a little on one part of the PCB and a soft toothbrush.  It got some out but is it normal that the PCB feels a bit tacky/sticky after?

It should be dry and clean. If it is still sticky, the residue is still there.
You should apply stronger dis-solvent.

Alright.  I'll go grab some 99.9% at the lab supply.

Thanks!

[mkawa]

chemtronics makes a flux residue remover that is basically magic, but it's also like the nastiest stuff i've ever used. it's basically every organic solvent at once. you don't even have to scrub because it atomizes everything. just take care to spray in the bathtub or something with a huge amount of ventilation and then leave the room with the exhaust fan on for a while.

if i only have isopropyl, i definitely use at least 90%, and only in a pinch. preferably, one wants methyl alcohol or anhydrous 99.9% iso. wear gloves when using anhydrous methyl alcohols by the way. anyway, i usually alternate the scrub brush between a little bit of mild detergent with a little bit of warm water and then scrub with iso to break down big fat piles of residue and flux and then back and so on. i only bother doing this when i'm really really completely done with a board.

[TheSoulhunter]

chemtronics makes a flux residue remover...

Link/Item# please! ^^

[mkawa]

whoops, the one i use is actually an MG chem product: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/flux-removers/flux-remover-for-pc-boards-4140/

extremely volatile, don't advise having it shipped. MG chem products can be picked up at fry's or industrial chemical supply houses.

scrub with something like this: http://www.all-spec.com/products/610-110.html

used toothbrushes are fine too but can be ineffective sometimes, and a toothbrush costs about the same amount as a hog's hair brush, especially if you buy them in quantity.

[mkawa]

Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together.

Show Image

right, so what you're holding is an SS series soldapullt. it's a completely different animal from the DS017. the only sample i have from that series is the SS343, which is threaded like the SS011, SS350, and SS102. each of these have different sized barrels and different tips. the ss343 that i hae looks to be able the right diameter, but the tip looks too large. my guess is that you have a soldapullt successor SS model and that you need an LS36x replacement tip. you're going to need to save the barrel threads somehow, probably by turning the internal thread with a probe. the external thread is molded into the barrel on these designs, so if you kill the thread, you have to replace the barrel.

i generally would just recommend replacing the unit with a DS017 variant if you're not doing very fine pitched desoldering. the challenger and successor lines are made for space constrained and fine pitched situations. the ds017 has the maximum capacity, suction and so on.

[infiniti]

Thanks mkawa for the flux removal recommendations. I'll see what I can source locally.

[TheSoulhunter]

whoops, the one i use is actually an MG chem product: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/flux-removers/flux-remover-for-pc-boards-4140/
extremely volatile, don't advise having it shipped. MG chem products can be picked up at fry's or industrial chemical supply houses.

Thanks! Just wanted to check out the ingredients...
Time to buy chem supplies and test: Ethyl-alcohol, Isopropanol, Ethyl-acetate

[mkawa]

use them all at once and you've got the product i just linked to

[mkawa]

don't forget the hexane!

[Parak]

Pfft, just use chlorine trifluoride. Removes the flux instantly, along with the pcb, desk, hand, floor, house foundation, etc.

[minho]

I need some help about making a backlit keyboard - I got some advice from the Sprit Model 1 group buy thread but I figured I'd the rest of my questions here to stop derailing that thread, and because this is a thread intended for soldering help.

I wish to make a backlit keyboard using the Sprit 60% PCB. What size LEDs should I use, and what type of resistor? Is there any type of LED I should stay away from?

Also are there any issues in trying to create a backlit keyboard with the Sprit PCB that you guys may know of? (For ex. I think the bottom left Ctrl button on the Poker doesn't support backlighting?)

Also, am I correct in that regular diodes do not need resistor? What type of diode is typically used on a keyboard?

[BlueBär]

1. I wish to make a backlit keyboard using the Sprit 60% PCB. What size LEDs should I use, and what type of resistor? Is there any type of LED I should stay away from?
2. Also are there any issues in trying to create a backlit keyboard with the Sprit PCB that you guys may know of? (For ex. I think the bottom left Ctrl button on the Poker doesn't support backlighting?)

1. 2x3x4mm rectangular LEDs are recommended, 3mm round ones work as well but are not fully compatible with thicker keycaps.
2. Not that I know of.

I don't know much about diodes so can't answer your last question.

[HPE1000]

I need some help about making a backlit keyboard - I got some advice from the Sprit Model 1 group buy thread but I figured I'd the rest of my questions here to stop derailing that thread, and because this is a thread intended for soldering help.

I wish to make a backlit keyboard using the Sprit 60% PCB. What size LEDs should I use, and what type of resistor? Is there any type of LED I should stay away from?

Also are there any issues in trying to create a backlit keyboard with the Sprit PCB that you guys may know of? (For ex. I think the bottom left Ctrl button on the Poker doesn't support backlighting?)

Also, am I correct in that regular diodes do not need resistor? What type of diode is typically used on a keyboard?

Just buy the leds from sprit, they are the correct ones and you get resistors with them.

You also get diodes for your keyboard from him, I am not 100% sure about round 2 but for round 1 you could either have him solder your diodes, or do it yourself.

The only reason the poker left windows key doesn't light up is because it can be used as caps lock.

On sprits keyboard, the caps lock and delete key do not light up unless you are using caps lock or num lock respectively. Not really sure how that is shocking though.