The Living Soldering Thread

[jbm]

I had something a little strange happen while soldering yesterday. There were 2 pins, out of 24 total on an IC, that I just couldn't get - the solder would find its way to, and then stick to, the tip of the soldering iron. The other 22 went fine.

I made sure I was giving it enough heat, and tried adding flux, but neither did the trick.

There's a lot of flux gunk there (and there already was before I added more) so I'm going to pick up some 99% isopropyl alcohol and try cleaning the area with that.

Any suggestions for what else I should try?

[phoenix1234]

I had something a little strange happen while soldering yesterday. There were 2 pins, out of 24 total on an IC, that I just couldn't get - the solder would find its way to, and then stick to, the tip of the soldering iron. The other 22 went fine.

I made sure I was giving it enough heat, and tried adding flux, but neither did the trick.

There's a lot of flux gunk there (and there already was before I added more) so I'm going to pick up some 99% isopropyl alcohol and try cleaning the area with that.

Any suggestions for what else I should try?

Could they be corrosion? If it is the case, you can use sand paper or a mini hand file to clean the rusty away.
There could also be some kind of chemical substances that prevent the flux flow into those position. So that you can use 99% isopropyl alcohol that you are going to have to clean.

[tjcaustin]

I had something a little strange happen while soldering yesterday. There were 2 pins, out of 24 total on an IC, that I just couldn't get - the solder would find its way to, and then stick to, the tip of the soldering iron. The other 22 went fine.

I made sure I was giving it enough heat, and tried adding flux, but neither did the trick.

There's a lot of flux gunk there (and there already was before I added more) so I'm going to pick up some 99% isopropyl alcohol and try cleaning the area with that.

Any suggestions for what else I should try?

Make sure your tip is shiny, too.

[jbm]

Could they be corrosion? If it is the case, you can use sand paper or a mini hand file to clean the rusty away.
There could also be some kind of chemical substances that prevent the flux flow into those position. So that you can use 99% isopropyl alcohol that you are going to have to clean.

I wouldn't have thought so (it's straight out of the box and looked clean), but maybe it's "new old stock" or something. I'll definitely try cleaning it.

Thanks

[jbm]

Make sure your tip is shiny, too.

Good point. I think it was in good shape, but I may not have been paying enough attention. I'll check it out and clean it again. Thanks

Another weird thing is that I was able to to go do some other joints, which worked fine, but then came back to these two, and still wasn't able to do them. Very frustrating.

[vivalarevolución]

I need some good insulated wires to solder together two points.  My googling skills seem to be awful for finding these wires.  Can anybody point me to some decent, durable, insulated wires?

[mkawa]

you're looking for hook-up wire. for small orders, jameco, parts express, and actually ebay are all good choices. 22ga is a standard size for low current electronics applications. 18ga is for power applications, and 14+ga is for very very high power (> 5A through a single wire) applications

[vivalarevolución]

you're looking for hook-up wire. for small orders, jameco, parts express, and actually ebay are all good choices. 22ga is a standard size for low current electronics applications. 18ga is for power applications, and 14+ga is for very very high power (> 5A through a single wire) applications

Thanks.  I need them for a Model F ribbon cable replacement.  You think low current will be fine?

[mkawa]

for ribbon cables, you need to buy ribbon replacements and crimp on the connectors. you want the same size that you took out, usually each wire in the ribbon is 22ga and the connectors are referred to as IDC-X for x pins. it's specifically ribbon cable you want though. hookup wire is individual wires, either made of stranded copper or solid, depending on how flexible you want the wire to be.

[HoffmanMyster]

for ribbon cables, you need to buy ribbon replacements and crimp on the connectors. you want the same size that you took out, usually each wire in the ribbon is 22ga and the connectors are referred to as IDC-X for x pins. it's specifically ribbon cable you want though. hookup wire is individual wires, either made of stranded copper or solid, depending on how flexible you want the wire to be.

But, that said, ribbon cable is really just a bunch of wires glued/melted together, so you *could* accomplish the same thing with a bunch of wires next to eachother, which I believe is what he has in mind.

[vivalarevolución]

for ribbon cables, you need to buy ribbon replacements and crimp on the connectors. you want the same size that you took out, usually each wire in the ribbon is 22ga and the connectors are referred to as IDC-X for x pins. it's specifically ribbon cable you want though. hookup wire is individual wires, either made of stranded copper or solid, depending on how flexible you want the wire to be.

But, that said, ribbon cable is really just a bunch of wires glued/melted together, so you *could* accomplish the same thing with a bunch of wires next to eachother, which I believe is what he has in mind.

Well, xwhatsit replaced his ribbon cable on this Model F with individual wires, and seemed to work fine.  I liked the look and flexibility of that rather than the cumbersome ribbon cable, which really *crimps* my style.

[HoffmanMyster]

for ribbon cables, you need to buy ribbon replacements and crimp on the connectors. you want the same size that you took out, usually each wire in the ribbon is 22ga and the connectors are referred to as IDC-X for x pins. it's specifically ribbon cable you want though. hookup wire is individual wires, either made of stranded copper or solid, depending on how flexible you want the wire to be.

But, that said, ribbon cable is really just a bunch of wires glued/melted together, so you *could* accomplish the same thing with a bunch of wires next to eachother, which I believe is what he has in mind.

Well, xwhatsit replaced his ribbon cable on this Model F with individual wires, and seemed to work fine.  I liked the look and flexibility of that rather than the cumbersome ribbon cable, which really *crimps* my style.

Yeah, there's absolutely no difference between the two in terms of functionality.  Longevity and durability?  Possibly.

Perhaps I shouldn't have put the word "could" in asterisks, as you definitely can, with no need to imply that it's a stretch.  I was simply speaking to the fact that the ribbon cable might be cleaner and a more "proper" way to do it.

But anyway, yeah, individual wires are totally fine.

[mkawa]

IDCs are just easier to crimp on to ribbons. otherwise there's no real difference.

[madik]

Guys how difficult is un-soldering Cherry MX plate mounted switches from board? I would be using pen soldering iron and standalone desoldering pump. Does it goes easy or it sucks balls?
thanks.

[vvp]

If your PCB has round holes for switch pins then it will be very easy. The pins are rectangular and to fit round holes the holes must be big. The difference in the cross section area between pin and the hole makes it easy to desolder.

[madik]

If your PCB has round holes for switch pins then it will be very easy. The pins are rectangular and to fit round holes the holes must be big. The difference in the cross section area between pin and the hole makes it easy to desolder.

I aint sure right now. I thinking about getting Cherry G80-3000 with Clear switches and desoldering them. It would be cheaper than buying standalone switches from groupbuy on DT. Here are few pictures how the PCB looks like http://deskthority.net/review-f45/cherry-g80-3000lqceu-0-with-mx-clear-switches-review-t1817.html

Oh its PCB mounted. My mistake. So this mean it will be twice as many pins to un-solder ?

[vvp]

I do not know that board.

I know only one board for switch de-soldering: the lowest model of TESORO Durandal. It had plate mounted switches, big holes and it was a piece of cake to pull them out. About 15-20 seconds per switch. Switches and keycaps were salvaged. The rest finished in garbage bin.

[tjcaustin]

Guys how difficult is un-soldering Cherry MX plate mounted switches from board? I would be using pen soldering iron and standalone desoldering pump. Does it goes easy or it sucks balls?
thanks.

That depends solely on your pump.  Clones work way worse than real soldapullts.

Also, where are you located?

[madik]

Guys how difficult is un-soldering Cherry MX plate mounted switches from board? I would be using pen soldering iron and standalone desoldering pump. Does it goes easy or it sucks balls?
thanks.

That depends solely on your pump.  Clones work way worse than real soldapullts.

Also, where are you located?

Its in my profile. I don't have a pump yet. Was looking at buying something like this

[tjcaustin]

Guys how difficult is un-soldering Cherry MX plate mounted switches from board? I would be using pen soldering iron and standalone desoldering pump. Does it goes easy or it sucks balls?
thanks.

That depends solely on your pump.  Clones work way worse than real soldapullts.

Also, where are you located?

Its in my profile. I don't have a pump yet. Was looking at buying something like this

Show Image

Contact mkawa.  He's an edsyn dealer and can get you a decent desoldering set up

[zennasyndroxx]

Any tips on cleaning solder flux? I'm using the kester solder from geekhackers. Water should be just fine right? What about non kester solder? I'll need isopropyl?

Also, is this solder station alright?

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/1/aoyue_469/234aef7a355be6bcbb0292b9609e3f66

[uns211]

Thanks everyone for your criticism on my soldering! I decided to get a few things:


Before I was using a Weller SP25NUS (don't hate, my dad couldn't find his WES51 and bought it for me):


How's this? PD3/4/6 look the same. If it's bad, I can get more practice with the Soldapullt.

[phoenix1234]

Any tips on cleaning solder flux? I'm using the kester solder from geekhackers. Water should be just fine right? What about non kester solder? I'll need isopropyl?

Also, is this solder station alright?

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/1/aoyue_469/234aef7a355be6bcbb0292b9609e3f66

Normally, for any rosin core solder, you may need isopropyl to clean flux residue. Don't use water because it is slow in evaporation which is not good for metal contact. Water is also has very low viscosity and it may leak into your switch and lead to future problem like corrosion.

Regarding the Aoyue 469 station, it is a 70w soldering station. It could be good enough for soldering keyboard. However, you may want to buy a more reliable one from Edsyn or Hakko.

[zennasyndroxx]

Any tips on cleaning solder flux? I'm using the kester solder from geekhackers. Water should be just fine right? What about non kester solder? I'll need isopropyl?

Also, is this solder station alright?

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/1/aoyue_469/234aef7a355be6bcbb0292b9609e3f66

Normally, for any rosin core solder, you may need isopropyl to clean flux residue. Don't use water because it is slow in evaporation which is not good for metal contact. Water is also has very low viscosity and it may leak into your switch and lead to future problem like corrosion.

Regarding the Aoyue 469 station, it is a 70w soldering station. It could be good enough for soldering keyboard. However, you may want to buy a more reliable one from Edsyn or Hakko.

The aoyue station is a good deal. So 70w is the optimum wattage for soldering keyboard switches, diodes and even resistors?

Also, isopropyl. I'll have to dab some isopropyl into a cloth and wipe it right? Or do I have to pour an amount to the board and wipe it off

[phoenix1234]

The aoyue station is a good deal. So 70w is the optimum wattage for soldering keyboard switches, diodes and even resistors?

Also, isopropyl. I'll have to dab some isopropyl into a cloth and wipe it right? Or do I have to pour an amount to the board and wipe it off

Yes, you are right, you can dab some isopropyl into a cloth and wipe it or use cotton swab (e.g. Q-tips) to do so.
Considering aoyue could be good enough for the job but I'm pretty sure that you will find out that Edsyn, Hakko or Goot are better in term of temperature precision and tip reliability.

[swill]

I bought one of those knock off brand stations and it broke in the first 1/2 dozen times I used it.

I ended up getting a Hakko and am happy with it. For this type of soldering it does everything I need. Quick heat up (so I can just turn it off if I am not using it) and the tip temp is pretty consistent.  I would probably buy an edsyn or matcal (sp) if I upgraded from this. I would only upgrade if I was using it more than a couple times a week.

[margo baggins]

Any tips on cleaning solder flux? I'm using the kester solder from geekhackers. Water should be just fine right? What about non kester solder? I'll need isopropyl?

Also, is this solder station alright?

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/1/aoyue_469/234aef7a355be6bcbb0292b9609e3f66

Normally, for any rosin core solder, you may need isopropyl to clean flux residue. Don't use water because it is slow in evaporation which is not good for metal contact. Water is also has very low viscosity and it may leak into your switch and lead to future problem like corrosion.

Regarding the Aoyue 469 station, it is a 70w soldering station. It could be good enough for soldering keyboard. However, you may want to buy a more reliable one from Edsyn or Hakko.

The aoyue station is a good deal. So 70w is the optimum wattage for soldering keyboard switches, diodes and even resistors?

Also, isopropyl. I'll have to dab some isopropyl into a cloth and wipe it right? Or do I have to pour an amount to the board and wipe it off

70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.

[vivalarevolución]

Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function. 

What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?   

[jbm]

Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function. 

What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?

I bought an "ESDProduct Rubber Mat" and have been happy with it, but I'll admit that it's probably overkill.

This is the one I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WUI5SS/

[vivalarevolución]

Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function. 

What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?

I bought an "ESDProduct Rubber Mat" and have been happy with it, but I'll admit that it's probably overkill.

This is the one I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WUI5SS/

Yea, I have seen that one floating around in my basic searches.   It has a combination of anti-staticness and high heat tolerance.  A little pricey, though, but I may have to spend if I want that combo.

[Melvang]

Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function. 

What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?

Nothing.  It is an old computer desk that has a keyboard tray that is to narrow, and a desk top that is to narrow for my pair of monitors while being able to keep the left one centered on the desk.

[jbm]

I don't know if it just started, or I just started noticing, but yesterday there was flux shooting off my solder while I was working and landing a couple inches away.

I couldn't find anything online, but part of me is wondering if this means my iron is too hot. I have it set to an appropriate temperature (660F, using Kester 44 63/37) but maybe it's poorly calibrated.

Can anyone confirm whether the flying flux is expected?

By the way, yesterday I (successfully!) finished building my ErgoDox. Very rewarding.

[jorgenslee]

70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.

Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?

[tgujay]

70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.

Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?

Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.

[margo baggins]

Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function. 

What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?

I use a rubber/plastic desk protector from ikea, i think it cost me about a fiver and is pretty big, I have a couple of them. I also have a plumbers soldering mat that I put down on the top of it if I am doing any work with hot air as that is heat proof and stops the plastic mat from melting for just normal soldering I just work straight on the plastic mat, which I probably wouldn't suggest doing unless you are decent at soldering as it's not at all heat proof!

[Melvang]

70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.

Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?

Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.

Just going to elaborate on this.  With unleaded solder and leaded solder that has more than 63%lead it is actually possible to melt the solder but not get it hot enough to bond with anything.  I forget what the term for that is right now but 63/27 bind as soon as it melts. 

Plus when using leaded solder it melts at a significantly lower temp which results is less chance of damage to the board with a properly set iron.

[jorgenslee]

70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.

Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?

Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.

Just going to elaborate on this.  With unleaded solder and leaded solder that has more than 63%lead it is actually possible to melt the solder but not get it hot enough to bond with anything.  I forget what the term for that is right now but 63/27 bind as soon as it melts. 

Plus when using leaded solder it melts at a significantly lower temp which results is less chance of damage to the board with a properly set iron.

Thanks for the answers guys. Glad I get a spool of leaded solder from Geekhackers.org. I use a normal solder when I assemble my sprit 60% and I do agree it needs higher temp to melt and I have damage some joints when I try to desolder some of the switch.

[tgujay]

70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.

Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?

Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.

Just going to elaborate on this.  With unleaded solder and leaded solder that has more than 63%lead it is actually possible to melt the solder but not get it hot enough to bond with anything.  I forget what the term for that is right now but 63/27 bind as soon as it melts. 

Plus when using leaded solder it melts at a significantly lower temp which results is less chance of damage to the board with a properly set iron.

Thanks for the answers guys. Glad I get a spool of leaded solder from Geekhackers.org. I use a normal solder when I assemble my sprit 60% and I do agree it needs higher temp to melt and I have damage some joints when I try to desolder some of the switch.

I think it has been suggested that when desoldering to add some new solder first to help.  I'm sure Mkawa or someone else can elaborate on that better.

[Parak]

Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function. 

What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?   

I use this one here (seller has pretty much any size):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271293311825

It's definitely a top quality rubber mat. You can get an idea on how better rubber mats are from

[phoenix1234]

Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function. 

What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?

ESD rubber mat would be great. However, it is quite expensive. Besides, you should only consider this when you have all of your tools are ESD. In that cases, you may need to invest a big amount of $$$ for ESD soldering station, ESD pliers, ESD screwdrivers, etc.

In my case, I just buy a simple A0 Cutting Mat like this :

It works out of the box.

[margo baggins]

70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.

Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?

Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.

Just going to elaborate on this.  With unleaded solder and leaded solder that has more than 63%lead it is actually possible to melt the solder but not get it hot enough to bond with anything.  I forget what the term for that is right now but 63/27 bind as soon as it melts. 

Plus when using leaded solder it melts at a significantly lower temp which results is less chance of damage to the board with a properly set iron.

I think the word is Euteric - maybe.

I don't really like 63/37 blends, or kester, even though everyone on here raves about it! Might just be due to the way I solder, 60/40 I find flows a little better than 63/37. I guess it's all preference at the end of the day

[berserkfan]

Here's a new problem.

While desoldering recently I caused some solder to bubble and pop. Solder flew out. I didn't notice it at that time but later realized that some solder had landed on my daily driver keyboard sitting about 80cm away from where I was desoldering. Now how do I remove that little splash of solder without damaging my custom paint job?

[tjcaustin]

Here's a new problem.

While desoldering recently I caused some solder to bubble and pop. Solder flew out. I didn't notice it at that time but later realized that some solder had landed on my daily driver keyboard sitting about 80cm away from where I was desoldering. Now how do I remove that little splash of solder without damaging my custom paint job?

It should be able to just flake off, assuming the case is metal.

[absyrd]

I just got my first kit from mkawa and I'm having fun already. However, I've already run into a problem. Any help would be appreciated! Please see here for pics:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=60532.msg1461886#msg1461886

Nevermind. Fixed. 

[hwood34]

Is there somewhere I can buy a separate temperature control unit for an iron without one?

[BlueBär]

Is there somewhere I can buy a separate temperature control unit for an iron without one?

I don't think that's possible as the temperature sensor is in the iron itself.

[hwood34]

Is there somewhere I can buy a separate temperature control unit for an iron without one?

I don't think that's possible as the temperature sensor is in the iron itself.

maybe just something to directly control power output, then I could gauge temperature myself?

[mkawa]

use the tip to control power output. remember, the power output _to the joint_ is proportional to the cross-section of metal in contact and the thermal resistance of that mechanical joint.

[hasu]

I got this Hakko hollowed tip finally, it is nice for SMT hand soldering. This tip has stronger surface tension of solder due to its concave so that it is easier to drag solder QFP and make good filet than normal chisel and beveled tip.

If you have a problem on SMT hand soldering I can recommend it.

Normal 3mm beveled tip and 2mm hollowed tip(900M-T-2CM).

[skottr]

I did some searching on the forum, but didn't quite find any extra info, so thought this would be a good spot to ask.

I've seen the 'Hard-Wiring How-To', but was hoping to find more information/explanation on hard-wiring. Do you know of any other posts/sites/etc. that go deeper into explaining hard-wiring? New to soldering and keyboard creation, so just wanting a bit more in-depth info if it's available.

Thanks in advance for any info!