The Living Soldering Thread

[hasu]

I usually set 310-320°C for almost every thing except for connector and huge ground pattern, 350 for those. I use leaded solder.
I use counterfeit Hakko tip thermometer I got from eBay. It works and better than nothing at least. I don't trust temp dial of my station.

[bpiphany]

yes, because a repurposed toaster that hits 400+C to reflow solder is safe as long as you can't electrocute yourself on the power switch. ahaahahaa

no seriously kids. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME. bpiph is a special type of crazy. i'm not saying that i am not also a special type of crazy, but i am saying that i've burned and electrocuted myself more times than i can count.

Special - I am very honored =)

[mkawa]

POWER VS TEMPERATURE

Power is a unit of _work_ in the physical sense. Temperature is a _property of matter_, again, in the physical sense. Power can do work such as raising the temperature of something. Power is also necessary to lower the temperature of something. Power is measured in Watts, also known as Joules per second. A Joule is a unit of energy. Hence, power is energy expended over time.

On the other hand, think of temperature as the "disorderliness" of matter. The higher the temperature of a compound, the more the little atomic bits of the compound are actively moving around. If they move around _too_ fast, you can get into trouble, but metals can typically tolerate very very high temperatures (think 1200C) before they start causing trouble. This is not true for the chemicals that we call "flux", but let's ignore that for now.

HENCE, we expend energy over time, with our soldering irons, to raise the temperature of metal soldering alloys. The more energy we use per unit time, the more quickly the things we use the energy on will get hot. Cool!

However, there's an important corollary here. Variable _power_ tools are not the same as variable _temperature_ tools, and fixed power tools are not the same as fixed temperature tools. Further, when soldering, what is important is _temperature_, not power.

Why? Matter changes phase (solid to liquid, liquid to gas) at temperature boundaries. 63/37 tin to lead ratio soldering alloy changes from solid to liquid at 287C. Note that we have made no statement about the amount of power required. However, all else equal, more energy per unit time will raise the temperature of the soldering alloy faster. However, it will also raise the temperature of all the things that are thermally connected to the soldering alloy faster as well.

One of the most common discouraging mistakes that I typically see in people who are dipping their feet into soldering is accidental burning of components or circuit boards or skin (and more power turned a 1st degree burn into a 3rd degree burn ever so quickly..). Less power makes it harder to burn components. However, we still need to reach the melting point of the solder, so there is a balance between power and temperature.

This is thephysical principal that guided my choice of soldering irons. The Edsyn CL1481 iron is rated at 30W, that is, 30 Joules of energy per second. However, the heater that expends this energy into the joint self-regulates such that the temperature of the tip stays constant at ~370C.

Hence, if I hold the CL1481 iron to a joint a period of time that is not arbitrarily long, the iron will expend enough energy to bring the joint up to 370C (which we call equilibrium), and then the rate of temperature increase will actually plateau.

The upshot of this is that the designer of this iron, who is not me, but who was quite brilliant, designed an iron that will bring soldering joints up to processing temperature, but not much higher, making burning of components very difficult.

With both variable temperature and especially variable power irons, especially with poor quality control and components of dubious origin, the property above is extremely hard to achieve.

basically, set your iron to the processing temperature. a good heating element will expend a fixed amount of power (which remember is work/time, so "fixed amount of power" means that the element will always pump the same amount of energy into the junction per unit time). the temperature control tells your iron when to stop pumping energy into the junction. there are subtleties to this because of diffusion, but the general idea is that anything connected to the tip with (what we model as) zero thermal resistance is going to sit at the set temp.

oh, and the processing temperature is determined by the flux, not the solder alloy. kester 63/37 RA has a 350C processing temp.

[tgujay]

POWER VS TEMPERATURE

Power is a unit of _work_ in the physical sense. Temperature is a _property of matter_, again, in the physical sense. Power can do work such as raising the temperature of something. Power is also necessary to lower the temperature of something. Power is measured in Watts, also known as Joules per second. A Joule is a unit of energy. Hence, power is energy expended over time.

On the other hand, think of temperature as the "disorderliness" of matter. The higher the temperature of a compound, the more the little atomic bits of the compound are actively moving around. If they move around _too_ fast, you can get into trouble, but metals can typically tolerate very very high temperatures (think 1200C) before they start causing trouble. This is not true for the chemicals that we call "flux", but let's ignore that for now.

HENCE, we expend energy over time, with our soldering irons, to raise the temperature of metal soldering alloys. The more energy we use per unit time, the more quickly the things we use the energy on will get hot. Cool!

However, there's an important corollary here. Variable _power_ tools are not the same as variable _temperature_ tools, and fixed power tools are not the same as fixed temperature tools. Further, when soldering, what is important is _temperature_, not power.

Why? Matter changes phase (solid to liquid, liquid to gas) at temperature boundaries. 63/37 tin to lead ratio soldering alloy changes from solid to liquid at 287C. Note that we have made no statement about the amount of power required. However, all else equal, more energy per unit time will raise the temperature of the soldering alloy faster. However, it will also raise the temperature of all the things that are thermally connected to the soldering alloy faster as well.

One of the most common discouraging mistakes that I typically see in people who are dipping their feet into soldering is accidental burning of components or circuit boards or skin (and more power turned a 1st degree burn into a 3rd degree burn ever so quickly..). Less power makes it harder to burn components. However, we still need to reach the melting point of the solder, so there is a balance between power and temperature.

This is thephysical principal that guided my choice of soldering irons. The Edsyn CL1481 iron is rated at 30W, that is, 30 Joules of energy per second. However, the heater that expends this energy into the joint self-regulates such that the temperature of the tip stays constant at ~370C.

Hence, if I hold the CL1481 iron to a joint a period of time that is not arbitrarily long, the iron will expend enough energy to bring the joint up to 370C (which we call equilibrium), and then the rate of temperature increase will actually plateau.

The upshot of this is that the designer of this iron, who is not me, but who was quite brilliant, designed an iron that will bring soldering joints up to processing temperature, but not much higher, making burning of components very difficult.

With both variable temperature and especially variable power irons, especially with poor quality control and components of dubious origin, the property above is extremely hard to achieve.

basically, set your iron to the processing temperature. a good heating element will expend a fixed amount of power (which remember is work/time, so "fixed amount of power" means that the element will always pump the same amount of energy into the junction per unit time). the temperature control tells your iron when to stop pumping energy into the junction. there are subtleties to this because of diffusion, but the general idea is that anything connected to the tip with (what we model as) zero thermal resistance is going to sit at the set temp.

oh, and the processing temperature is determined by the flux, not the solder alloy. kester 63/37 RA has a 350C processing temp.

Thanks for this!  I finally have a nice iron I just want to use it well and not burn ****.

[Dreamre]

I'm looking to purchase a desoldering pump similar to a Hakko 808/FR300. Any suggestions for retailers?  Thanks!

[mkawa]

hakko aggressively enforces minimum advertised pricing on its authorized retailers, so it's often hard to get a deal on the products that are hard to do gray market parallel importation on like the 808 and fr300. look for site-wide coupons at all-spec, tequipment.net etc.

[Dreamre]

hakko aggressively enforces minimum advertised pricing on its authorized retailers, so it's often hard to get a deal on the products that are hard to do gray market parallel importation on like the 808 and fr300. look for site-wide coupons at all-spec, tequipment.net etc.

I'm not looking for a deal, but it's just hard to find them here in Canada. Any big websites you recommend in addition to the one you provided earlier? Thanks!

[mkawa]

all-spec, techni-tool, tequipment, newark, MCM electronics, stanley supply are all good tool vendors. mouser and digikey only really carry hyper specialty tools. if you need that one AMP approved tool for a single connector type so that you can produce a thousand mil-spec assemblies, then the big component houses are a great option. otherwise, i've never had a bad experience with any of the above suppliers.

[Dreamre]

all-spec, techni-tool, tequipment, newark, MCM electronics, stanley supply are all good tool vendors. mouser and digikey only really carry hyper specialty tools. if you need that one AMP approved tool for a single connector type so that you can produce a thousand mil-spec assemblies, then the big component houses are a great option. otherwise, i've never had a bad experience with any of the above suppliers.

I got my god brother to pick me up a set from the US from B+D Enterprises for $230 (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fr-300-desoldering-tool.html). Hope it turns out alright. Thanks for the help!

[timsbleung]

Question (hopefully this is the right place ti ask this)

I've been working on a phantom keyboard. Currently I have no plans to have LEDs as I will probably be using a case with no LED slots, but I would like to leave the possibility open for the future.

Of course once I get the plate on and all the keys soldered on, it will be very hard to solder on the resistors, as I will have to remove the plate. The LEDs, on the other hand, go over the plate (I think), so I think they woiuld not be that hard to solder on.

Which got me wondering - is it OK to solder on the resistors but leave the LEDs off for now? Would that be alright to do? Or do they always have to be coupled with an LED or somegthing.

[heedpantsnow]

Question (hopefully this is the right place ti ask this)

I've been working on a phantom keyboard. Currently I have no plans to have LEDs as I will probably be using a case with no LED slots, but I would like to leave the possibility open for the future.

Of course once I get the plate on and all the keys soldered on, it will be very hard to solder on the resistors, as I will have to remove the plate. The LEDs, on the other hand, go over the plate (I think), so I think they woiuld not be that hard to solder on.

Which got me wondering - is it OK to solder on the resistors but leave the LEDs off for now? Would that be alright to do? Or do they always have to be coupled with an LED or somegthing.

Depends on the board, but I imagine you'd be okay. May be a good opportunity for some SIP sockets so you can stick in the LEDs later without soldering.

[timsbleung]

Question (hopefully this is the right place ti ask this)

I've been working on a phantom keyboard. Currently I have no plans to have LEDs as I will probably be using a case with no LED slots, but I would like to leave the possibility open for the future.

Of course once I get the plate on and all the keys soldered on, it will be very hard to solder on the resistors, as I will have to remove the plate. The LEDs, on the other hand, go over the plate (I think), so I think they woiuld not be that hard to solder on.

Which got me wondering - is it OK to solder on the resistors but leave the LEDs off for now? Would that be alright to do? Or do they always have to be coupled with an LED or somegthing.

Depends on the board, but I imagine you'd be okay. May be a good opportunity for some SIP sockets so you can stick in the LEDs later without soldering.

It's just the phantom PCB that you can get on mechanicalkeyboards.com

I will take a look into SIP sockets

[sethk_]

I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.

[Evo_Spec]

I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.

Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.

[sethk_]

I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.

Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.

Thanks, will report back.

[sethk_]

I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.

Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.

Reporting back, did not work. Will look into buying a solder sucker.

[Evo_Spec]

I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.

Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.

Reporting back, did not work. Will look into buying a solder sucker.

I had this problem as well, it was such a hassle trying to use solder wick. Whenever it did work I had no idea what I did right but I am still a pretty big soldering noob so...

[sethk_]

I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.

Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.

Reporting back, did not work. Will look into buying a solder sucker.

I had this problem as well, it was such a hassle trying to use solder wick. Whenever it did work I had no idea what I did right but I am still a pretty big soldering noob so...

So am I

[Melvang]

For anyone looking for a solder sucker, I can't recommend the edsyns from www.geekhackers.org enough.  They are the best short of getting the Hakko desoldering iron or better.

[MGH]

For anyone looking for a solder sucker, I can't recommend the edsyns from www.geekhackers.org enough.  They are the best short of getting the Hakko desoldering iron or better.

Sold out :/

[Melvang]

Amazon.  I will check the model number on mine or you could check and see if you can make out a model number for that site.  This is something that I would gladly spend the extra money for an authentic part and not a clone.

[SpAmRaY]

Amazon.  I will check the model number on mine or you could check and see if you can make out a model number for that site.  This is something that I would gladly spend the extra money for an authentic part and not a clone.

The fakes/clones are very tricky to distinguish at times from the real thing just as an FYI for anyone who sees a deal that is too good to be true, it probably is.

[sethk_]

Amazon.  I will check the model number on mine or you could check and see if you can make out a model number for that site.  This is something that I would gladly spend the extra money for an authentic part and not a clone.

The fakes/clones are very tricky to distinguish at times from the real thing just as an FYI for anyone who sees a deal that is too good to be true, it probably is.

Do people make clones of solder suckers?

[DrHubblePhD]

I have been meening to buy one of those. I actually recently found an interesting technique for de soldering especially tricky joints, e.g. ICs, LEDs (damn you square pads). If you have a compressor you can actually heat up the joint with an iron in your right hand and then blast a bit of air onto it. The solder gets blown off the joint completely leaving no tricky residue or anything around the pin. Of course that solder has to go somewhere (generally it splatters right next to the pad) but you can easily clean it up by quickly running the iron over the mess and having it wisk onto it.

[SpAmRaY]

Amazon.  I will check the model number on mine or you could check and see if you can make out a model number for that site.  This is something that I would gladly spend the extra money for an authentic part and not a clone.

The fakes/clones are very tricky to distinguish at times from the real thing just as an FYI for anyone who sees a deal that is too good to be true, it probably is.

Do people make clones of solder suckers?

Very good ones with the same packaging and everything. And if it is a popular item they make clones of it.

[mkawa]

i've been talking with both massdrop and edsyn about making genuine soldapullts more available with or without the geekhackers changes. once i get off my butt, i should be able to get that show back on the road.

[MJ45]

i've been talking with both massdrop and edsyn about making genuine soldapullts more available with or without the geekhackers changes. once i get off my butt, i should be able to get that show back on the road.

The best way to get the real thing is order one from Edsyn direct at http://edsyn.com/ or wait for geekhackers to restock.

[RickyJ]

i've been talking with both massdrop and edsyn about making genuine soldapullts more available with or without the geekhackers changes. once i get off my butt, i should be able to get that show back on the road.

Please bring back the Soldapult rebuild kits!  I use my Hakko 808 99% of the time, but when I need just a couple of joints done I use my DS-017 and I hate it.  It damages less pads than my clone, but it needs a Kawa makeover kit.  My clone has a lock for the hand plunger to make it travel-toolbag friendly, so it stays at work.

[twiddle]

I have been meening to buy one of those. I actually recently found an interesting technique for de soldering especially tricky joints, e.g. ICs, LEDs (damn you square pads). If you have a compressor you can actually heat up the joint with an iron in your right hand and then blast a bit of air onto it. The solder gets blown off the joint completely leaving no tricky residue or anything around the pin. Of course that solder has to go somewhere (generally it splatters right next to the pad) but you can easily clean it up by quickly running the iron over the mess and having it wisk onto it.

I found for through-hole parts you can actually hold the board vertically, and heat the solder from one side and suck through from the other rather than holding the sucker next to the iron and trying to suck the solder sideways away from the joint. Perhaps this is a really obvious thing but it didn't occur to me at first..

The best way to get the real thing is order one from Edsyn direct at http://edsyn.com/ or wait for geekhackers to restock.

Element14/Farnell (I think they are Newark in the US) also stock a few models. At one point I picked up a SS750LS for $10 AUD, though I am not sure how seeing as the price is now double that
Still, if you don't want to wait for geekhackers, or are in any of the other countries Element14 have warehouses, it might be an option.


On an unrelated note, Hakko gear is ridiculously expensive here in Australia (Pretty sure I ranted in this thread 6 months ago about having to pay double for no good reason). I ended up getting one of these Goot stations:



Fast heating, temperature controlled. Cost me about $90 shipped. Done everything from SMT to appliance repairs with it. Just thought it would be an option for those whom Hakko shaft on pricing (still looking at $220+ for Hakko here in Australia).

[bpiphany]

De-soldering the easy way

[mkawa]

i've been talking with both massdrop and edsyn about making genuine soldapullts more available with or without the geekhackers changes. once i get off my butt, i should be able to get that show back on the road.

Please bring back the Soldapult rebuild kits!  I use my Hakko 808 99% of the time, but when I need just a couple of joints done I use my DS-017 and I hate it.  It damages less pads than my clone, but it needs a Kawa makeover kit.  My clone has a lock for the hand plunger to make it travel-toolbag friendly, so it stays at work.

in the near future i may be limited to selling full geekhackers units only. it's not really clear at this point. i'm pushing on a couple of different directions, and have no idea which one will be a good way forward. in the meantime, please feel free to follow along in the geekhackers.org vendor forum.

[MJ45]

Edsyn still has their anniversary "gold" edtion for 36.50 USD. http://www.edsyn.com/product/AS196-G.html

[mkawa]

the metallized versions have slightly worse sealing characteristics because the metallization throws the barrel a little out of tolerance.

[MGH]

My soldering iron (yihua 936) broke today 

Need a sub $50 iron (preferably via amazon so I can get 2 day shipping, but am fine with other sites). The edsyn in the OP is $90

[Melvang]

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422247672&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wlc100

For the price this is a tough iron to beat.  It does heat up slow but I don't have anything bad to say about mine.

[MGH]

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422247672&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wlc100

For the price this is a tough iron to beat.  It does heat up slow but I don't have anything bad to say about mine.

I don't mind waiting for it to heat up. I usually prep everything while that happens

[Melvang]

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422247672&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wlc100

For the price this is a tough iron to beat.  It does heat up slow but I don't have anything bad to say about mine.

I don't mind waiting for it to heat up. I usually prep everything while that happens

Gotcha, yeah it really is a pretty solid iron, I run leaded solder at around 3 and a half on the dial.  I have no idea what the temp at the tip is but works and doesn't seem to hot.  Leaded I usually max out, add some leaded solder to each pad and just back it down to actually desolder stuff with my sold a pult.

[MGH]

I'm actually going to buy one of these $15 hakko one temp irons:
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-508-1-Solder-Iron-Lightweight/dp/B009SCL4AQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422342185&sr=8-2&keywords=hakko+soldering+iron&pebp=1422342193108&peasin=B009SCL4AQ

until I get enough to buy a Hakko FX888D or something else.

[pr0ximity]

Best soldering iron for $100 or less? I'd imagine there's something better than an Edsyn CL1481 in that range?

I found the Hakko FX888D on Amazon for $91, how much bang for my buck is that?

Until now I've just used the cheapest iron I could find at Radioshack, but it's in pretty rough shape having not really been maintained as it was kind of a one-off for some soldering I did a year ago. Looking to put in my xwhatsit controller and likely build a custom in the coming year or so, so I'd like to hav something that will last and perform well if taken care of properly. From what I understand I think I'd like something with variable temp (unless that comes at the expense of quality)?

[jdcarpe]

Best soldering iron for $100 or less? I'd imagine there's something better than an Edsyn CL1481 in that range?

I found the Hakko FX888D on Amazon for $91, how much bang for my buck is that?

Until now I've just used the cheapest iron I could find at Radioshack, but it's in pretty rough shape having not really been maintained as it was kind of a one-off for some soldering I did a year ago. Looking to put in my xwhatsit controller and likely build a custom in the coming year or so, so I'd like to hav something that will last and perform well if taken care of properly. From what I understand I think I'd like something with variable temp (unless that comes at the expense of quality)?

You will find varying opinions on the Hakko FX-888D. I used one for a year, and never had one problem. But some people, after a teardown look inside, have come to the conclusion that the stations are very cheaply made, and therefore may not last. As always, YMMV. I personally think it's a nice starter package.

You could also look at the Weller WESD51. It's another fine entry level station.

If your budget can handle it, you might be able to pick up a used Hakko FX-951, FP-101, or FM-202 station for just a bit more. Those are professional level stations, which should last you a long, long time. You will probably have to do some research into which iron handle is compatible with which base, as they are usually sold separately when buying used. And of course, get the tips which match your handle.

[meow a cat]

So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.

I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.

Here are the stations I've been looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails

This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:

http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station

The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.

[digi]

I think this is an awesome deal - http://www.edsyn.com/product/CL1481-K.html

I was going to get it when I was looking for a station but a GH member hooked me up with an Edsyn variable station that I couldn't refuse.

[DrHubblePhD]

So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.

I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.

Here are the stations I've been looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails

This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:

http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station

The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.

Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set

[jdcarpe]

Maybe this got lost on the previous page...

You will find varying opinions on the Hakko FX-888D. I used one for a year, and never had one problem. But some people, after a teardown look inside, have come to the conclusion that the stations are very cheaply made, and therefore may not last. As always, YMMV. I personally think it's a nice starter package.

You could also look at the Weller WESD51. It's another fine entry level station.

If your budget can handle it, you might be able to pick up a used Hakko FX-951, FP-101, or FM-202 station for just a bit more. Those are professional level stations, which should last you a long, long time. You will probably have to do some research into which iron handle is compatible with which base, as they are usually sold separately when buying used. And of course, get the tips which match your handle.

Also, you can look for used Hakko 936.

For desoldering, always buy Edsyn Soldapullt. You can get them direct from Edsyn at (818) 989-2324.

[meow a cat]

So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.

I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.

Here are the stations I've been looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails

This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:

http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station

The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.

Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set

I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.

I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.

Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.

[DrHubblePhD]

So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.

I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.

Here are the stations I've been looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails

This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:

http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station

The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.

Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set

I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.

I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.

Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.

I could proxy one with your phantom if you would like?

[DrHubblePhD]

So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.

I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.

Here are the stations I've been looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails

This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:

http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station

The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.

Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set

I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.

I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.

Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.

I could proxy one with your phantom if you would like?

It would go well with your surprise

[meow a cat]

So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.

I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.

Here are the stations I've been looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails

This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:

http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station

The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.

Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set

I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.

I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.

Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.

I could proxy one with your phantom if you would like?

It would go well with your surprise

If the price ends up being better that would be great. I don't mind used either.

I'm not sure where to look for a used FX888D, I checked eBay.ca and my local classifieds, and couldn't find anything.

[DrHubblePhD]

So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.

I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.

Here are the stations I've been looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails

This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:

http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station

The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.

Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set

I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.

I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.

Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.

I could proxy one with your phantom if you would like?

It would go well with your surprise

If the price ends up being better that would be great. I don't mind used either.

I'm not sure where to look for a used FX888D, I checked eBay.ca and my local classifieds, and couldn't find anything.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422900949&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+fx+888&pebp=1422900957108&peasin=B00AWUFVY8&pebp=1422900957113&peasin=B00AWUFVY8 

a bit pricey, ill look for something used.

[effectiveduck]

Is it ok to use a cheap $15 iron + solder kit for a single 60% keyboard job?