Greetings, and welcome back to my group-buy. I'm arranging to have made (using Litster's .dxfs intended for 5mm acrylic) ergodox cases.
You can see my faulty camera revealing the results here (http://imgur.com/a/0v4U3), which shows the spacers (dicussed in a moment) a couple of times, or there's some good pictures from the first (http://imgur.com/a/ZiMPE) time I did this that had better lighting.
(tangentially related, non-GH links ahead)
Since they're too thin (http://adereth.github.io/blog/2014/02/12/building-an-ergodox/) by themselves, you'll need some sort of spacer. JDcarpe has drawn up a spacer, and that is what I reference in this group buy ... but there are alternatives (http://www.rubbersheetroll.com/silicone-rubber-commercial-grade.html) if you just want the metal case, now.
(/end tangent)
One of the major advantages of this case, is the plate: you can use plate mounted switches, and they 'snap' into place just like they're designed to. The disadvantage is you may find you've developed a bit of a breeze (https://plus.google.com/photos/+%C3%98ysteinKrog/albums/6009642270734357697/6009642274223235266?pid=6009642274223235266&oid=113252364984901542714). (oystein.krog's Round-one case; same as what you'll get in this round but he's used M3 nuts as spacers).
We've seen some ALPS .dxf designs, and I snagged the one that was spoken of as used-and-working. There's a bit of a programming charge for cutting in a different pattern, but if you know you want that instead, I'll tack on an extra $2, or if you want both plates I can do that too for an extra $10 in aluminum, or an extra $18 in stainless steel (almost positive on that front. If there's interest I'll verify with the shop).
Assumptions on the order form: That you want a case in 16 gauge (1.5mm / 1/16ths-inch). That you want both left and right hand, and of the same metal. That if you get the spacer kit, you want it to be of the same metal as your case. That you want eight layers to your spacer kit to go with the five of the case itself. I'm flexible on most stuff I just need to know what to tell the machine shop to cut so if you know you want something else, put it in the comments. If you don't know what you want but think you want it, let's discuss it here.
Prices on the form include domestic paypal cut but not shipping. I'm going to use the flat-rate-medium for stainless, and for orders of two cases + spacers or three aluminum cases. Figuring in something for packaging that's $13, or potentially less if you're closer / buying less. international buyers are warned about shipping weights: I don't know what exactly it will work out to, but if with-packaging crosses that magic 4 pound line, the flat-rate boxes tend to cost upwards of $65. There's some hoops I can jump through (flimsy envelope, packing peanuts) but postage has been the detail with the most devils on previous runs.
ORDER FORM LIVE (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1zCczdtmBcztWI9DVq489p82v4ZZ6iBYmzl6n2XUb6uA/viewform?usp=send_form) and accepting your input now.
EDIT: some of you might want to see the prices before pretending to order, hmm?
I actually intended to include this last night ...
After paypal, but before shipping:
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aluminum | stainless |
$39 | $66.25 | (Classic case) |
$15.20 | $29.20 | (Minimalist) |
$22.50 | $43.75 | (Ext-minimal) |
$38.25 | $76.15 | (8-layer spacer kit) |
$42.75 | $72.75 | (Full hand case) |
$16.60] | $32.50 | (FH minimalist) |
$$24.50 | $48 | (Fullhand extended minimalist) |
- - - -
Historical content hidden. They've nearly doubled the price -- classic case, ten layers in aluminum will be $52, $105 in stainless -- again that's before shipping, which thankfully hasn't been spiked. Yes I know you've paid already but now they're altering the deal pray they dont alter it any further.
Ante up or back out? Since prices are changing I'd like an answer on this soon.
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So, since the cases seem to be languishing: What do you guys think about adding phantom ANSI-150 plates? Sixteen gauge stainless, probably $35 / ea + shipping. If all you're getting is a plate I'd have cheaper ways of shipping it to you.
Noctane1 | | Aluminum classic, 1 copy |
Data | | SS classic W/spacer kit, 1 copy |
limitz | | SS classic W/spacer kit, 1 copy |
Shiftshape | | Aluminum ext-minimalist + Classic in SS |
lone_wing | | classic aluminum, 1 copy |
shimmy1996 | | classic aluminum, 1 copy |
EkL | | extended minimalist, 2 copies |
Prdlm2009 | | RH-Full, aluminum, 2 copies |
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Everyone has paid or gotten ahold of me about further details. Order has been sent to the shop the morning of October fifteenth. As Data says below, 'lets do this.'
Just getting my last few parts. AK, are these Cherry plate-mount stabilizers you're using here?
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(http://i.imgur.com/ypuhG4h.jpg)
Yes. One of the many advantages, IMHO, if this GB is that you can use plate mounted stabilizers, and I prefer cherry but it has the universal hole so you could use costar plate mounted stabs, too.
I guess I'll chronicle my build here, as tribute. Pics are customary, right? :p If this gets spammy I can move it to another thread/subforum.
Most of my pieces had a lot of what I can only describe as "slag" from the cutting process.
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(http://i.imgur.com/ox7lu4B.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/CJNu2KB.jpg)
There was also a bit of "overspray", particularly around the screw holes. Overall they had a fairly dull finish from the shop.
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(http://i.imgur.com/P8gHq65.jpg)
Note: I'm not complaining about this. I understand how laser cutting works and was expecting to do some work on the plates anyway.
So I sat down and did some sanding & polishing this weekend. About 10 hours worth in total. Here are the results.
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(http://i.imgur.com/ppxEkfE.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/IYioMNx.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/MI1Qcqx.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/nm7ROpt.jpg)
I had to get slightly more aggressive than 1000 grit for these. ;) The rough edges were destroying my sandpaper. I started with 120 on the worst layers - particularly the spacers - then worked up through 220, and 600. Then I finished with 1200, 2000, and polishing compound on the top, bottom, and plate layers. I left the spacers at 220 since they will be the least visible layers. They have a nice, bright "brushed" look now.
I could have polished these more, but after 10 hours I was ready to be done. I would have needed to switch to wet sanding for the best results and that was going to be too much for this project. I think the results turned out pretty well, anyway.
Next step was to do a temp assembly around the plate & PCB for soldering switches. 5 layers: PCB "holder" layer, 3 JD spacers, and the plate (which is on the bottom of the stack in these).
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(http://i.imgur.com/hZVjH7C.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/YTDtTem.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/VVTbbQB.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/rptLTLQ.jpg)
And this is where I'm at currently. I need some M3 nuts to complete the temp frame for soldering. I'll be getting those at a local hobby store later today.
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(http://i.imgur.com/wDt70bM.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/1unLVQS.jpg)
So far, so good. :D
I've never polished steel before, but I have a day to devote to this. Can you elucidate the polishing procedure you have used for someone completely clueless like me?
I finished my build 2 weeks ago but figured I owed you guys some pics. Enough procrastinating then...
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(http://i.imgur.com/L0V2ULs.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/Aa6xV8z.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/7NpzpfA.jpg)
A few more here: http://imgur.com/a/G6eHg
And finally, one request if you do another round of this case: Please modify the JD spacers to allow proper spacing with key caps in the outside thumb cluster. I had this problem on both sides that required several hours of additional grinding/filing/finishing before I could install caps -- thank god I had a Dremel.
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(http://i.imgur.com/LzfkIfZ.jpg)
It was necessary to trim 3 layers each side in both corners. If you do another round with the spacers modified I'd be interested in buying another set (spacers only).
Thanks for making this possible, AK. ;)
That looks really nice, especially with SA.
And finally, one request if you do another round of this case: Please modify the JD spacers to allow proper spacing with key caps in the outside thumb cluster. I had this problem on both sides that required several hours of additional grinding/filing/finishing before I could install caps -- thank god I had a Dremel.
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(http://i.imgur.com/LzfkIfZ.jpg)
It was necessary to trim 3 layers each side in both corners. If you do another round with the spacers modified I'd be interested in buying another set (spacers only).
Yep, I definitely need to modify the drawing to remove the rounded part at that corner. If you use more than 2 spacer layers above the switch plate, it will most definitely interfere with keycap movement.