Model | Keys | Part Nos (old, new/white) | ID (hex) | Status | ||||
30 | 83 | 840013-01 | 01 | Should work | ||||
60 ASCII | 101 | 840338-01, 901867-01 | 41 | Verified | ||||
60 ANSI | 101 | 840338-09 | 41 | Verified | ||||
60 3161 | 106 | 840338-02 | 04 (or 05/06/07) | Verified | ||||
85 | 105 | 840105-01 | n/a (00) | Verified | ||||
85 Gate Array | 105 | 840366-01, 901879-01 | 60 | Should work | ||||
285/520 | 108 | (841038-01), 901028-01 | 62 | Verified | ||||
285/520 ANSI WPS | 108 | (841038-06), 901028-06 | ?? | Might work | ||||
AT Standard | 84 | 840275-04 | 02 | Should work | ||||
PCE US, Grey | 102 | 840358-01, (901865-01) | 82 | Verified | ||||
PCE Int'l, Grey | 103 | 840362-01, (901866-01) | 83 | Verified | ||||
PCE US, White | 102 | 840358-13 | 82 | Verified | ||||
PCE Int'l, White | 103 | 840362-04 | 83 | Verified | ||||
PCE US | 102 | (841135-01), 901865-01 | 82 | Should work | ||||
PCE Int'l | 103 | (841135-02), 901866-01 | 83 | Should work |
The 4P4C connector, is popularly, but incorrectly, called RJ22, RJ10, or RJ9. It is also commonly referred to as a handset connector because the most popular usage for the connector is to terminate both ends of a handset cord and it is the de facto standard for this application.
In the unlikely event that someone posts pics of a working converter tomorrow, I might have to send them a present in return! :eek:
If that PCB is a WY50 it will have 4 small chips on it and a 12-pin header on the left for the cable, if it's a WY60 it will have the 28-pin scanner chip (I can't remember if 4 wires in the cable are soldered direct to the PCB, or if there's a header).
I have teensy. I have wyse. Challenge accepted
Haha, fantastic! True dedication to geekery :thumb: Where did the 4P4C come from?
It's ironic that you, Destroyer of WYSEs (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40289.0), should be the first to recreate my WYSE-saver :p
BTW, what's a TO-300?
PM me your address :D
You know, as I am typing this, I am realizing the downside of the limited KRO of the wyse. Whenever I type "I" and I hit the space bar while still holding down shift+i, the space doesn't register. Something I'll have to get used to, but I am still so pleased to be able to use the old wyse boards now.
Like I said I'm pretty sure nothing is fried since things are mostly working. I can perhaps get in there with a meter
Confirmation that US PCE (840358-01) works!
One thing though... Caps/Scroll/Num Lock LEDs don't work.
Would a box like this work?
Sorry dude, false alarm. The LEDs work fine. I obviously wasn't very thorough while testing it. The problem is that my Caps LED is dead.
Can either of you with the PCE US please confirm that its ID is 82? It should be printed to hid_listen at startup.
Here's a thing (http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/111254929875)... not sure exactly what it is, but it's an actual WYSE adapter cable, part number 920151-01, that looks like it might have room for a Teensy or Pro Micro inside :D
It's used with a Terminal 370 (http://ps-2.kev009.com/ohlandl/PS2_MOST/ACROREAD/TSSFACT/TFSPOS/4065001.PDF).
GB? :-*
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
That's a WY-60 ASCII PCB :thumb:
Now to find the most dummied down teensy reflash tutorial. along with figuring out which two pins the +5V and GND to use are. There are 2 labeled GND and none labeled +5V. This is also my first keyboard mod using a Teensy so I am still new in this department. Would like to get it figured out before I move onto my hand wired matrix build.
well jd is doing another teensy group buy (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52859.msg1175716#msg1175716), and if one were to hurry, he might get an order submitted in time.
well jd is doing another teensy group buy (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52859.msg1175716#msg1175716), and if one were to hurry, he might get an order submitted in time.
I got a little bit fancier with my converter. A little overbuilt, but it was fun. It is completely detachable. I need to clean up the USB side hole, but here she is:Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/wyse%20converter/20140215_212421_zpsa19966a9.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/wyse%20converter/20140215_212411_zpsc224d99f.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/wyse%20converter/20140215_212512_zpsbe1b3099.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/wyse%20converter/20140215_222019_zps0ec9e26f.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/wyse%20converter/20140215_222028_zps0cf20822.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/wyse%20converter/20140215_222109_zps69a2384a.jpg)
Amazing. I How do you like that teensy break out board?
Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/Mobile%20Uploads/20140216_002608_LLS_zps579317fc.jpg)
Found where I can buy Teensy 2.0 in my country. As I have spare WYSE board, why not?
But I want elaborate about socket. When I'll plug cable into socket on by board, lines on them (if I look front into socket on board) will be mirrored? So where are "data" line on pic will be "ground" and vice versa?
I still need a source of 4p4c connectors that I can mount easily. This is thus far proving to be the hardest part. Maybe I'll just get some cables and cut the ends off.
I still need a source of 4p4c connectors that I can mount easily. This is thus far proving to be the hardest part. Maybe I'll just get some cables and cut the ends off.This is my primary source of the connectors - old modem cables, etc.
Look Ma, no external converter box!Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20140415_225434_zps18e991da.jpg)
Look Ma, no external converter box!Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20140415_225434_zps18e991da.jpg)
Very nice.
On a side note, I have that exact speaker setup connected to my PS3 in the living room. Great speakers for home audio on a very strict budget (if you can find them anymore).
For both ATmega32U4 and AT90USB1286, connect as follows:
Data -> PD0
Clock -> PD1
+5V -> VCC
GND -> GND
For both ATmega32U4 and AT90USB1286, connect as follows:
Data -> PD0
Clock -> PD1
+5V -> VCC
GND -> GND
what about Pro Micro?Show Image(https://cdn.sparkfun.com//assets/parts/9/3/2/6/12640-02a.jpg)
avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P COM4 -c avr109 -U flash:w:SW130.hex
...to write the new layout to the KB.(http://i.imgur.com/2UrFRY9.png)
scas wy30.sc wy30.scb
Now there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.scwr wy30.scb
Since you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.scaswr wy30.scb
scrd wy30.scb
scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end
# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end
# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end
# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end
# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
I've been away from the site for a while so I didn't see this until last week. I've had a WYSE terminal keyboard and a Teensy 2.0 sitting around for a couple of years and I had been thinking I would have to replace the onboard controller to get the keyboard working with a PC, but thanks to this firmware it works perfectly with the teensy as an adapter. I'll have to stop being lazy and finish the retrobrite job I started on the case. It's from the 80s so it needs a lot of work reduce the yellow and get it back towards the original grey.
Thanks a ton, Soarer!
I have issue with this converter, or with my keyboard. I can't press 4 buttons at once. In gaming it matters in typing not really :P.
Is there any way to solve this?
PS - I see that Soarer has connections for the LEDs on the Teensy, but I can't see anywhere to bring them off the keyboard.
Awesome converter Soarer. Got my WYSE ASCII cleaned up and ready to go, tested the leads and keys were being registered, but unfortunately the 4P4C connector had cloth insulators which made it impossible to solder on like I was planning. Now I'm going to have to hardwire the Teensy to the board.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6oAOdcX.png)
I'm not at all knowledgeable about the Teensy. I have dumb question.
I'm trying to figure out what to solder where. It's obvious where the 5V and the ground goes but I can't figure out where the wires for Clock and Data on the 4P4C should be soldered. Any help would be fantastic! Thanks.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6oAOdcX.png)
I'm not at all knowledgeable about the Teensy. I have dumb question.
I'm trying to figure out what to solder where. It's obvious where the 5V and the ground goes but I can't figure out where the wires for Clock and Data on the 4P4C should be soldered. Any help would be fantastic! Thanks.
It is listed in the Original Post. PD0 and PD1. They are labeled on the Teensy as "D0" and "D1". A little hard to read in the pic but that looks like pins 5 and 6.
Hey, I don't know if I should start a new thread or just bump this one.I don't know about the numpad thing, but the rollover on wyse keyboards is pretty bad. Your experience is normal I would say. I typed on a wyse pce using this converter for a while, and I could not get used to it. Space bar often would not register because of the limitations of the way the board is wired when pressing other commonly used keys like shift. Which is why I plan to hand wire one instead. (Of course pile that on top of all my other keyboard projects that'll never get done)
I got my WYSE #840362-01 working with a generic, blue Pro Micro, everything works fine besides:
-Iffy key rollover, I only noticed this because of that old "hold down both shift keys and type out TQBF" exercise, the spacebar doesn't work when holding down both shift keys among other weird combos.
-The numpad doesn't output numbers or symbols besides slashes and plus/minus, plus doing the arrowkey and home/pgup/etc options. I CAN see the keypresses in hid_listen under windows, though, this is a sequence from 0-9 then the other keys:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LbsXy94.png)
What am I missing here?
Hello,
I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?
thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything. ;D :thumb:
Hello,
I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?
thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything. ;D :thumb:
Hello,
I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?
thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything. ;D :thumb:
That looks a lot like mine. You can see my Teensy pinout on my post on page 1 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52597.msg1176299#msg1176299)
Hello,
I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?
thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything. ;D :thumb:
That looks a lot like mine. You can see my Teensy pinout on my post on page 1 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52597.msg1176299#msg1176299)
it was exactly like yours! I have a lot to thank you for posting that close up picture of the pinout. I was confused on soarer's guide saying that it was mirrored. here it is all working! Thank you Soarer and everyone!! vintage blacks feel awesome!
Hello,
I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?
thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything. ;D :thumb:
Hey man sorry to get back to you so late! Actually, I really wanted to house the Teensy inside the keyboard and just run the usb cable out. But, I realized that maybe the teensy shouldn't be mounted permanently, since, I have an IBM Model M that I want to Convert, I'm thinking of making a converter box for it. Still not sure if I want to keep it that way though, I still have leandren's R4 on the way. So many keyboards, so, little time. I might just reconsider this hobby :( It's burning through my wallet.
That looks a lot like mine. You can see my Teensy pinout on my post on page 1 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52597.msg1176299#msg1176299)
it was exactly like yours! I have a lot to thank you for posting that close up picture of the pinout. I was confused on soarer's guide saying that it was mirrored. here it is all working! Thank you Soarer and everyone!! vintage blacks feel awesome!
Hey, were you considering using that surface mount telephone jack in the background of your pictures as a converter box? Because that's exactly what I just did, and I swear I didn't notice it in your picture until after I built this one. Saw the boxes on clearance at the home improvement store for $0.99 and had the idea.Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/Mobile%20Uploads/20160324_224238_zpsiug9mpaw.jpg)
I revamped my telephone jack design. Here it is in case anyone is looking for inspiration.
Parts:
pro micro clone from ebay
desoldered 4p4c connector from a WYSE PCB
Short male micro USB to female mini USB cable for strain relief and quick detach option
button from old mouse for reset switch (pro micro doesn't have one like teensy does)
surface mount rj11 telephone jack
hot glue gun and glue
something to cut the plastic housing as needed (I used a small hacksaw blade, pliers, and dremel with cutoff wheel)
small wire (I used an old piece of cut up USB cable)
Had to cut some of the plastic from the inside of the phone jack housing to make things fit and used lots of hot glue to make everything stay in place. Probably could have made the wires a little shorter for better appearance but that would make everything harder to fit together. After a little modification, the 4p4c socket fit nicely where the rj11 jack was originally. I trimmed some of the rubber surround from the end of the USB adapter cable so that the female mini USB end would stick out through the hole a little bit.Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20160327_223229_zpsliqjhkys.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20160327_223219_zpsau42d2bh.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20160327_223208_zps9oxnnhdr.jpg)
I revamped my telephone jack design. Here it is in case anyone is looking for inspiration.
Parts:
pro micro clone from ebay
desoldered 4p4c connector from a WYSE PCB
Short male micro USB to female mini USB cable for strain relief and quick detach option
button from old mouse for reset switch (pro micro doesn't have one like teensy does)
surface mount rj11 telephone jack
hot glue gun and glue
something to cut the plastic housing as needed (I used a small hacksaw blade, pliers, and dremel with cutoff wheel)
small wire (I used an old piece of cut up USB cable)
Had to cut some of the plastic from the inside of the phone jack housing to make things fit and used lots of hot glue to make everything stay in place. Probably could have made the wires a little shorter for better appearance but that would make everything harder to fit together. After a little modification, the 4p4c socket fit nicely where the rj11 jack was originally. I trimmed some of the rubber surround from the end of the USB adapter cable so that the female mini USB end would stick out through the hole a little bit.Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20160327_223229_zpsliqjhkys.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20160327_223219_zpsau42d2bh.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20160327_223208_zps9oxnnhdr.jpg)
WYSE...
ID: 00
Model: WY85
Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 2 (extended)
Mode: AT/PS2
\4E +04 \4F +42 d04 d42
/4E -04 /4F -42 u04 u42
\5B +05 \5C +1F d05 d1F
/5B -05 /5C -1F u05 u1F
\13 +06 \14 +27 d06 d27
/13 -06 /14 -27 u06 u27
Device disconnected.
Waiting for new device:............
Listening:
wEE
remaining: 007C
Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT
After leaving it for a while, I have finally got it working and the unusual keys remapped, but I cannot figure out the caps/num/scroll lock leds. I even tried to assemble the supplied led config but it fails at the first line.
Has anyone been able to configure the leds?
led caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7
Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.
I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.Quoteled caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7
As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work. Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished. I'll do that when I get home after work.
Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.
Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.
I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.Quoteled caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7
As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work. Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished. I'll do that when I get home after work.
Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.
I didn't realize you hadn't wired the leds yet. What exactly did you do to get things working?
Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.
I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.Quoteled caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7
As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work. Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished. I'll do that when I get home after work.
Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.
I didn't realize you hadn't wired the leds yet. What exactly did you do to get things working?
No worries.
I was initially compiling the configuration file using the tools from the XT/AT... Converter (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17458.msg335414#msg335414) just for remapping the keys. It wasn't until I introduced the LED commands that I wasn't able to assemble the file ( using scas.exe) without it throwing up errors. I don't know why, as the XT/AT...Converter should have the capability AFAIK.
Anyway, for me the tools in the Keyboard Controller Firmware (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50437.msg1100589#msg1100589)did the trick.
Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.
I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.Quoteled caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7
As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work. Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished. I'll do that when I get home after work.
Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.
I didn't realize you hadn't wired the leds yet. What exactly did you do to get things working?
No worries.
I was initially compiling the configuration file using the tools from the XT/AT... Converter (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17458.msg335414#msg335414) just for remapping the keys. It wasn't until I introduced the LED commands that I wasn't able to assemble the file ( using scas.exe) without it throwing up errors. I don't know why, as the XT/AT...Converter should have the capability AFAIK.
Anyway, for me the tools in the Keyboard Controller Firmware (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50437.msg1100589#msg1100589)did the trick.
I'm not familiar with compiling, assembling, etc. the configuration file. I simply create an .sc config file with a text editor, save it, and then drop and drag this file onto the scaswr.bat file. I use Windows. This makes things very easy to configure remapping, macros, function layers, etc. According to the documentation, this method "... will assemble the text config and then write the resulting binary config to the converter, in a single step".
So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.Thank you for this! Very helpful!
So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc
Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:Code: [Select]scas wy30.sc wy30.scb
Now there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmwareCode: [Select]scwr wy30.scb
Since you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.Code: [Select]scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.
Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computerCode: [Select]scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and editCode: [Select]scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.Code: [Select]# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end
# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end
# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end
# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end
# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.
WYSE...
ID: 00
Model: WY85
Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 2 (extended)
Mode: AT/PS2
\1F +E1 dE1
/1F -E1 uE1
\1B +0C d0C
/1B -0C u0C
\27 +2C d2C
/27 -2C u2C
and here are the keys pressed sloppily (i.e. how I would normally type them)\1F +E1 dE1
\1B +0C d0C \7B
\23 \27
/23 /27
/7B /1B -0C u0C
/1F -E1 uE1
What's this about 7B and 23? I see the \27 for the space bar. But there's no u2C d2C to give me an actual space character!\1F +E1 dE1
\1B +0C \7B d0C
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
/1F -E1 /7B uE1 /1B -0C u0C
Ok, just wired one of these up and am having an issue. I programmed the teensy, and it shows up in device manager just fine. Then I soldered it to the pcb, and it still shows up in device manager, but all the lock leds are lit and it doesn't register any keypresses. I checked HID listen and it's totally silent. any help is appreciated.
Can't. Nano has an atmega328, and the Wyse Converter (along with most of the aftermarket keyboard firmware here) is written for the beefier 32u4. I used a cheap pro micro clone (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=pro%20micro%2032u4&_udhi=5) for mine.Thanks for reply, I just got a pro micro. Flashed it with Wyse converter. Connect with my Wyse 840358-01.Hid listen show like yours:
WYSE...
ID: 00
Model: WY85
Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 2 (extended)
Mode: AT/PS2
But no key seem working. Can you take the picture yours pin out connector? thank you.
Don't know if it'll help you folks having trouble but if you're using a Pro Micro, most of the Chinese ones have a problem. J1 in the corner should be bridged with solder on a 5 volt Pro Micro and usually isn't on the ones from China.
There's more info in this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=88129.0).
I've got a couple of these coming in the post - are they all 5V? Is there some way to tell whether the jumper should be bridged or not?
I've got a couple of these coming in the post - are they all 5V? Is there some way to tell whether the jumper should be bridged or not?
They're not all 5 volt but the 5 volt version is what you should be using for a USB keyboard project. The 3.3 volt run at 8mhz and the 5 volt run at 16mhz. In the photo in the other thread you can see the rectangular metal can in the center at the end opposite the USB port. You can see the metal cover has been stamped with the frequency: 16.000. 16mhz = 5 volt Pro Micro.
I've got a couple of these coming in the post - are they all 5V? Is there some way to tell whether the jumper should be bridged or not?
They're not all 5 volt but the 5 volt version is what you should be using for a USB keyboard project. The 3.3 volt run at 8mhz and the 5 volt run at 16mhz. In the photo in the other thread you can see the rectangular metal can in the center at the end opposite the USB port. You can see the metal cover has been stamped with the frequency: 16.000. 16mhz = 5 volt Pro Micro.
Hi everyone,
I am pretty new to any DIY electronic projects, I managed to brake the Pro Micro (Chinese one) USB jack from the PCB of a friends WYSE keyboard :(. He used Soarers converter so I bought a new Pro Micro, desoldered the broke one, flashed 1.12 to the new one, soldered and all I have at the moment is the keyboard LEDs (Scroll Lock...) are on constantly, no inputs from the keyboard. On the Pro Micro the power LED is on, no other LEDs are on. I am new to anything like this so I am stuck at the moment. Took pictures, notes... before desoldering from the wiring (just you know, to make sure...), so I am pretty sure the wiring is OK, checked conductivity with a multimeter between the solder joints and the end of the cables (end=just before they connect to the PCB of the keyboard), all OK, no bridges... Executed hid_listen but nothing. These are the outputs I collected to debug, could someone be so kind to help me out with some suggestion?
flash output: https://pastebin.com/HLH7vM07 (https://pastebin.com/HLH7vM07)
journalctl output when connecting the keyboard: https://pastebin.com/PmJkQYNt (https://pastebin.com/PmJkQYNt), the only "red" in the log is: hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0005: No inputs registered, leaving
the output of hid_listen (keyboard is still connected): https://pastebin.com/1L8vXWd9 (https://pastebin.com/1L8vXWd9), nothing else when hitting any keys
I desoldered the pro micro controller and did the clock/data short test Soarer suggested on Deskthority, output: https://pastebin.com/DyUZwtLf (https://pastebin.com/DyUZwtLf)
What I did not do is to "send" any config to the cotroller (like modify keyboard mapping...) but according to the step-by-step guide is not necesseraly needed.
I tried with 3 different USB cable (even with the one I used for flashing), same results, I reflashed with version 1.10, but same. What could go wrong?
First make sure the hardware is right (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96236.msg2625899#msg2625899).
You can find the schematic and additional info by clicking on "Documents" on this page (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640).
...After closing the J1 pins I reflashed the controller with 1.12...
...After closing the J1 pins I reflashed the controller with 1.12...
I'm not sure that's right. "1.12" sounds like a version of Soarer's converter firmware. For a Wyse converter I think you should be using version 1.30, as found way down at the bottom of the first post in this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52597.msg1167938#msg1167938).
@Hypersphere it's a PCE INT'L #840362-01Thanks. It's an attractive board -- looks brand new.
Working Link keyboard with this converter. It's actually a Wyse 980112-01 model.
Numeric keys will have to be remaped.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.I know people hate newbie questions when it's easy for you but I'd really love some help if possible.
So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc
Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:Code: [Select]scas wy30.sc wy30.scb
Now there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmwareCode: [Select]scwr wy30.scb
Since you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.Code: [Select]scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.
Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computerCode: [Select]scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and editCode: [Select]scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.Code: [Select]# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end
# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end
# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end
# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end
# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.
To begin, just flash the Soarer's firmware, connect keyboard & try it. It should work without doing anything additional. After that, if you want to reprogram some keys, we can work on that. But, again, your board/convertor should work with only the Soarer's Convertor flashed to the Teensy.So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.I know people hate newbie questions when it's easy for you but I'd really love some help if possible.
So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc
Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:Code: [Select]scas wy30.sc wy30.scb
Now there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmwareCode: [Select]scwr wy30.scb
Since you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.Code: [Select]scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.
Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computerCode: [Select]scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and editCode: [Select]scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.Code: [Select]# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end
# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end
# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end
# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end
# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.
So, I'm just trying to check if some keyboards work. I got it working last night for a min but I'm not sure what I did to make it stop.
I have a Teensy 2.0.
I have Teensy loader.
I have Arduino.
I have Soarers converter.
HID Listen shows it doing stuff.
So I flash the converter firmware first without the keyboard connected. Then I input these commands from @DorkVader. Then I connect the keyboard? Can anyone just let me know which programs need to be opened? I would really appreciate it.
To begin, just flash the Soarer's firmware, connect keyboard & try it. It should work without doing anything additional. After that, if you want to reprogram some keys, we can work on that. But, again, your board/convertor should work with only the Soarer's Convertor flashed to the Teensy.So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.I know people hate newbie questions when it's easy for you but I'd really love some help if possible.
So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc
Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:Code: [Select]scas wy30.sc wy30.scb
Now there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmwareCode: [Select]scwr wy30.scb
Since you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.Code: [Select]scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.
Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computerCode: [Select]scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and editCode: [Select]scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.Code: [Select]# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end
# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end
# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end
# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end
# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.
So, I'm just trying to check if some keyboards work. I got it working last night for a min but I'm not sure what I did to make it stop.
I have a Teensy 2.0.
I have Teensy loader.
I have Arduino.
I have Soarers converter.
HID Listen shows it doing stuff.
So I flash the converter firmware first without the keyboard connected. Then I input these commands from @DorkVader. Then I connect the keyboard? Can anyone just let me know which programs need to be opened? I would really appreciate it.
This response makes it look like the Soarer's is properly flashed & working.
(Attachment Link)
Keep in mind that I have experience with Soarer's but none with the Wyse converter & know nothing about Wyse keyboards.
Are you using a pullup resistor?
They don't make Teensy 2.0 anymore