Filco is a good board and if it still works you really won't do much better, not without spending quite a bit more time or money.
Of your items though,
Wobble is based on the switch, not the board, Cherry is okay, not great not terrible. Noise however is a problem and that tends to come from 2 things, bottom out and stabs. Filco uses Costar stabs and those are either easy to fix or nearly impossible to fix. Get you some dielectric grease, pop off your stabilized caps and fill the stab slots with that grease. Dab a bit on the end of the stab wires as well. That should quiet things down if done right, however results will vary. It may feel a bit sluggish at first but settle in fast. Regarding caps, if you know anyone with a sand blaster, turn the pressure WAY, WAY down and blast the top, it will restore texture. However, too much air pressure or holding it too close will destroy them so it's a bit fickle, start with spares and be prepared to do all of them so they match.
If you really want to replace it, stop trying to replace the Filco with off-the-shelf, if can't be done to the extent you want, but it can be done with some work.
Getting something with Cherry stabs (Leopold maybe) *could* fix the stabs but you will have limited ability to lube without desoldering (one advantage to Costar stabs), and you still couldn't lube the switches. Sometimes you can get lucky about the stabs by just cramming some grease down into them but most need more work than that. Because of this, my recommendation is find a hot swap TKL of modest quality, I personally like the GMMK barebones for bang for the buck (and price will be an issue by the time you get everything). Admittedly the styling is meh (I hate low profile boards) and there is better (you can always just disable the RGB backlights). Quality for the base keyboard isn't such a big deal though you just need "good enough" so look around. Be sure to put foam under the pcb, GMMK has some it but it's not very good. From there buy better stabs and lube them (authentic GMMK/Cherry should be the absolute bare minimum), since it's a hot swap you can easily remove them to lube them properly. Now get some nice switches and lube those. This setup will absolutely destroy anything off-the-shelf and if you ever do buy a high end aluminum, all your parts swap over.
Yes, I know the GMMK barebones is cheap but it punches way above it's price and the other parts you need are going to add up VERY fast (which is why the barebones is cheap!). You're going to spend $20-$40 on lube, another $10-$40 on stabs, $5 on foam, a bit for some brushes, and don't forget shipping. You also still need switches and maybe caps. At this point you could easily have spent $100 or more and you still need a base. So don't go expecting to spend $150 on a base and still get the rest for under $200. And again, you can always transfer all of this later if you want.
