[GB] TMK Alps64 - 60% PCB for Alps

[c12rlpac]

is there a pcb thats compatable with the skcc alps switch?

[hasu]

is there a pcb thats compatable with the skcc alps switch?

No.

EDIT: I mean you can't find here. I don't know elsewhere.

[fireworm]

Hey folks,

I had a small run of pcbs made, since hasu can't ship to the US.

These are the maartenwut plain60 alps pcb (on his github).

These didn't come fully assembled: I had to hand solder a few components, and as such, they aren't "beautiful".  But work fine as I can tell, flash qmk etc.

They do have a JST connector, however it's traces are backwards.

Anyway, PM me here, or on discord: fireworm#4461.

Price is $35 shipped within US, pics on request.

[zammykoo]

Hey folks,

I had a small run of pcbs made, since hasu can't ship to the US.

These are the maartenwut plain60 alps pcb (on his github).

These didn't come fully assembled: I had to hand solder a few components, and as such, they aren't "beautiful".  But work fine as I can tell, flash qmk etc.

They do have a JST connector, however it's traces are backwards.

Anyway, PM me here, or on discord: fireworm#4461.

Price is $35 shipped within US, pics on request.

Ooh, that is tempting. Do you carry plates as well?

[fireworm]

Ooh, that is tempting. Do you carry plates as well?

I ended up with a very specific plate, wkl IBM 5140 (big ass enter).

Have about 3. Will sell for $5 each.

[zammykoo]

Ooh, that is tempting. Do you carry plates as well?

I ended up with a very specific plate, wkl IBM 5140 (big ass enter).

Have about 3. Will sell for $5 each.

Ah, that won't work for me. Thanks anyway.

[HiiragiAkira]

May I ask: why is the connection for the PCB, mini USB rather than USB-C?

[hasu]

Historical reason. 'KBC Poker X' whose case dimensions defined defacto starndard for hobby 60% keyboards. The keyboard used Mini-USB connector. That is the reason.

[nevin]

...and you can still get a BRAND NEW usb mini cable for a couple bucks. usb-c isn't going to make your keyboard any faster....
(sorry, but it kills me when people pass up a great board just because it doesn't have the connector they think it should have)

[fireworm]

...and you can still get a BRAND NEW usb mini cable for a couple bucks. usb-c isn't going to make your keyboard any faster....
(sorry, but it kills me when people pass up a great board just because it doesn't have the connector they think it should have)

Yup. Tell me about it.

I like usbc because it's reversible though.

Anyway, would have loved some pcbs direct from Hasu, but he literally cannot ship to USA due to 'rona, so here we are.

[nevin]

thanks for stepping in @fireworm & making them available.

[HiiragiAkira]

...and you can still get a BRAND NEW usb mini cable for a couple bucks. usb-c isn't going to make your keyboard any faster....
(sorry, but it kills me when people pass up a great board just because it doesn't have the connector they think it should have)

sorry for breathing man lmao

[nevin]

...and you can still get a BRAND NEW usb mini cable for a couple bucks. usb-c isn't going to make your keyboard any faster....
(sorry, but it kills me when people pass up a great board just because it doesn't have the connector they think it should have)

sorry for breathing man lmao

No. It wasn't directed specifically to you @HiiragiAkira. Apologies if it came off that way. It was meant to be a general statement.

[zammykoo]

I’ve been looking for a PCB to pop up within the US for a while now. Anyone got one they are willing to part with? My keen has been collecting dust...

[ab2k18]

Hey guys,

I'm coming to the end of my very first custom keyboard build. It's been a learning curve for sure, but I'm looking forward to finishing! I've got AEK II keycaps, ALPS Blue switches and a wooden case from KBD Fans and its looking sweet! This thread has been a lifesaver, and thanks in particular to Hasu!!!

However I'm currently stuck flashing firmware on my Mac (Catalina). Steps taken so far:

installed brew using the Terminal - ==> Installation successful!

installed dfu-programmer using the Terminal (code copied from brew website) - ==> Installing dfu-programmer
==> Pouring dfu-programmer-0.7.2.catalina.bottle.tar.gz
🍺  /usr/local/Cellar/dfu-programmer/0.7.2: 9 files, 111.3KB

Then, using the steps here (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki#flash-firmware), i typed the following in to Terminal:

dfu-util 0.9dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase --force

This returns:

dfu-util: unrecognized option `--force'

So i tried:

dfu-util 0.9dfu-programmer atmega32u2 erase

This returns:

dfu-util 0.9

Copyright 2005-2009 Weston Schmidt, Harald Welte and OpenMoko Inc.
Copyright 2010-2016 Tormod Volden and Stefan Schmidt
This program is Free Software and has ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY
Please report bugs to http://sourceforge.net/p/dfu-util/tickets/

You need to specify one of -D or -U
Usage: dfu-util [options] ...
  -h --help         Print this help message
  -V --version         Print the version number
  -v --verbose         Print verbose debug statements
  -l --list         List currently attached DFU capable devices
  -e --detach         Detach currently attached DFU capable devices
  -E --detach-delay seconds   Time to wait before reopening a device after detach
  -d --device <vendor>:<product>[,<vendor_dfu>:<product_dfu>]
            Specify Vendor/Product ID(s) of DFU device
  -p --path <bus-port. ... .port>   Specify path to DFU device
  -c --cfg <config_nr>      Specify the Configuration of DFU device
  -i --intf <intf_nr>      Specify the DFU Interface number
  -S --serial <serial_string>[,<serial_string_dfu>]
            Specify Serial String of DFU device
  -a --alt <alt>      Specify the Altsetting of the DFU Interface
            by name or by number
  -t --transfer-size <size>   Specify the number of bytes per USB Transfer
  -U --upload <file>      Read firmware from device into <file>
  -Z --upload-size <bytes>   Specify the expected upload size in bytes
  -D --download <file>      Write firmware from <file> into device
  -R --reset         Issue USB Reset signalling once we're finished
  -s --dfuse-address <address>   ST DfuSe mode, specify target address for
            raw file download or upload. Not applicable for
            DfuSe file (.dfu) downloads

I'm scratching my head at this stage. It appears like 3 quick lines in Terminal would load my hex file (I created mine using Hasu's link at post #1), but the first line from the GitHub link above doesn't work.

Would anybody be able to help?

Thanks 

[hasu]

Use dfu-programmer for AVR microcontrollers. dfu-util is diffrent tool.

[ab2k18]

That was it, thanks!

[ramon0xff]

Hi!

I'm having a strange problem with my Alps64 board. Both Alt keys K70 and K60 (or Cmd- if mac), that's both keys next to the spacebar, stopped registering.
I've dismantled it, making manual contact does not register (it does the rest of keys). Diodes all show right with the tester (0.640V in diode mode).
usbhid-dump shows no key being emitted for those two keys.

Firmware flashing works. Neither mac nor linux nor windows register any of those keys. (NB: It started before flashing, without doing nothing special.)
I reflashed afterwards, just in case, but no luck.
Maybe setting qmk into debug mode? Static? Gremlins?

[nevin]

check effected keys with the multimeter in continuity mode, looking for broken traces.(one leg down to diode, other leg to column... if diodes connect the row ...i haven't looked at schematic)

i had a similar situation with my original kbtalking pure pcb. one day one or two keys quit responding for no reason. i hadn't changed switches or been messing with it in any way, they just stopped. the fix was to jumper the broken trace to get it working again.

[hasu]

You can post some pics of the pcb so that we may find something.
All other keys but the two work well ?

And post debug outputs displayed on hid_listen. Push both shifts and V to check firmware version.
Also press both shifts and X to see key matrix state.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki#debug-console

Hi!

I'm having a strange problem with my Alps64 board. Both Alt keys K70 and K60 (or Cmd- if mac), that's both keys next to the spacebar, stopped registering.
I've dismantled it, making manual contact does not register (it does the rest of keys). Diodes all show right with the tester (0.640V in diode mode).
usbhid-dump shows no key being emitted for those two keys.

Firmware flashing works. Neither mac nor linux nor windows register any of those keys. (NB: It started before flashing, without doing nothing special.)
I reflashed afterwards, just in case, but no luck.
Maybe setting qmk into debug mode? Static? Gremlins?

[ramon0xff]

Oook! hid_listen matrix debug shows both keys being pressed:

Code: [Select]

r/c 01234567
00: 00000000
01: 00000000
02: 00000000
03: 00000000
04: 00000000
05: 10000000
06: 00000000
07: 10000000

Alas, it looks that does not translate into a keycode.

Code: [Select]

DESC: TMK keyboard firmware for Alps64
VID: 0xFEED(TMK) PID: 0x6464(Alps64) VER: 0x0001
BUILD: 494faeb4 (17:11:03 Mar 29 2019)
OPTIONS: LUFA BOOTMAGIC MOUSEKEY EXTRAKEY CONSOLE COMMAND 4096
GCC: 6.4.0 AVR-LIBC: 2.0.0 AVR_ARCH: avr35


[hasu]

It looks good. Both keys K70 and K50 seem to work normally. The pcb is still healthy probably.


Accidentally key configuration is stored in eeprom perhaps.

Hold space and backspace key down and then plug into usb port to clear config.

https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard#boot-magic-configuration---virtual-dip-switch

[ramon0xff]

Bingo!

[latemodel24]

I just got my alps64 finished up, and this thing is sweet. Thanks hasu, shipping was quick and the build went really good.

[nevin]

I just got my alps64 finished up, and this thing is sweet. Thanks hasu, shipping was quick and the build went really good.

nice!
what flavor swithces?

[latemodel24]

I used Matias Clicky switches. I had the cream dampened switches out of the aek2, but I wanted to try the matias clicks. They actually feel better than I was expecting. Not quite as good as blue alps, but I do like them more than my nos skcm bamboo alps in my numpad. Only thing I should have changed, was the case, I got the cheapest case I could find, it does sound decent, but this is my lightest keyboard by far. It has no flex, but I think that's because the entire keyboard is so small.

[nevin]

very nice.
yes, i've been curious about matias as well. will have to get a batch or two. believe they were rather inexpensive compared to some of the new boutique mx switches popping up every couple days.

[chevykeeb]

Now that I have found the elusive blue alps, I want to make an Alps64 board. Before I jump ship I have a few questions that maybe you can help me with.

Alps plates - Have you tried both FR4 and custom metal plates? What is your experience or maybe I can read/watch videos somewhere? I want to make the right choice here.

Alps stabilizers - I am worried this might be an issue. What's the best option for smooth alps stabs? I have original stabs from old donor board, was thinking of using those.

Alps case - What would be a budget case? I've seen builds with Tofu 60 and even Poseidon 60 (cheaper) being used. They weren't on the list of approved cases (1st page). Maybe you have some recommendations for a budget case which would sound nice.

Alps lube - I've seen various lubes from ptfe to NeKtar (Nyogel 767A + OKS 477) being used and I still don't know what to buy. What would work best for blue alps? Keymacs uses NeKtar in their videos and people have been happy with it.

[hasu]

I have tried steel and FR-4 plate(not in exact identical condition though) and didn't see much difference execpt for total weight of keyboard
I'm not picky and don't have good taste for keyboard build.

[nevin]

plates... i prefer FR4, but everybody will have their own opinion.
stabs... not too many choices unless the caps you plan on using support mx style stabs. Matias has stab kits available as well as some other places. keep all your specialty stabs, like the barrel & post on the spacebar etc. those can be hard to find.
case... just about any poker style case or any "fancy" case that supports poker/GH60 style pcb's. depends on how "budget" you want to go. there are plastic tray-mount cases that you can get for $10-$15. with fancier cases, you might have to make your own plate if it's a gasket/isolation mount or some other special mounting. i've made alps plate files for a couple of the fancy cases for another forum member.
lube... most everybody says dry lube because that what they see remnants of when they open the switch (just dried out lube after 30-40 years).... all the regular lubes are fine. i've used Tribosys 3203 with good results in tactile switches. just a light coating, just enough to take the "shine" off the plastic. start with a lighter lube like 3203 and if it's not quite what you want, then go thicker. better to start off with a thinner lube than go straight for the 205 that everybody seems to use (mostly on linears).

[jwkassem]

Hi all just finshed soldering diodes on H revision board, all with correct polarity, however when i test the board. Its not registering key presses for K70-K76. All others keys appear to be working.

[hasu]

does K77 register '9'? what's your os?

Try shift+shift+x to see matrix state on hid_listen if you have switches on the pcb.

[jwkassem]

Hi Hasu, no switches installed, too hard to troubleshoot with switches in. Board will not register anything for k77.

I believe i have faulty trace between micro controller and diode k70, fault repeats for k71-k77. Contunity test show fault. which adds up, that whole bank K70-K77 does not register any key presses.

Would be handy if you could show me which via from micro-controller i can bridge to test my theory out.

[hasu]

Sorry to hear you found a bad trace. But it is good to narrow cause of problem.

All of those K7* keys are connected to Row7 pin showed in this pic.
Patching between the Row7 pin and D71(orD72) cathode would be thing to try first probably.




Row7 trace runs like below for reference.



Hope this helps.

[jwkassem]

Thanks Hasu, worked it, downloaded schematics Kicad and did some investiagtions. Conclusion confirmed, setup jumper wire as per your picture and the keys presses are now all working. Thank you kindly for you prompt reply.

Long time lurker and this is my first DIY keyboard project. I've salvaged cream alps from AEK II. I'm cleaning up the switches with isyproyl alcahlol. Will attempt to solder in swtiches tomorrow. I be sure to post some photo's of the finshed product.

[toniwonkanobi]

What's the best way to solder the diodes on the Alps64 PCB? I assume just bend them first, then put into the holes, solder, then cut off the excess with side cutters? The diodes go in from the "bottom" of the PCB (side with the reset switch) through to the "top" of the PCB, yeah? Is it even possible to snip the diode legs so that they don't protrude from the top of the PCB?

[nevin]

Typically, through hole components are all topside and soldered on the underside.

Bend diodes pretty much right after glass. Make a sharp u shape, place through pcb. Then spread lags apart to hold in place. Continue on till all diodes placed then flip over & solder & snip.

[hasu]

It won't matter which side which side you put diodes on. But place diodes on "bottom" and solder on top if there is no special need.
As a general rule you put through-hole components on side which has silkscreen guide mark and solder on another side, I think.

Check "Assembly" in the first post if not yet.

[toniwonkanobi]

It won't matter which side which side you put diodes on. But place diodes on "bottom" and solder on top if there is no special need.
As a general rule you put through-hole components on side which has silkscreen guide mark and solder on another side, I think.

Check "Assembly" in the first post if not yet.

Typically, through hole components are all topside and soldered on the underside.

Bend diodes pretty much right after glass. Make a sharp u shape, place through pcb. Then spread lags apart to hold in place. Continue on till all diodes placed then flip over & solder & snip.

Okay, so just to be clear, the "correct" way to solder the diodes is to place them through the PCB in the same direction as the legs of the keyswitches go, yeah? From the "top" to the "bottom" (with the USB mini port on the left bottom-side)? I was confused because, in the Assembly section, there's a link to this post, where he says "Take a look at your PCB.  On one side you will see a small toggle switch with an LED next to it.  We will call this the Bottom.  The Bottom is the side that gets diodes." ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[nevin]

you can put them on either side. but follow the assembly instructions as hasu noted. (underside)
just make sure you are placing them correctly, diodes are one direction. (the line/stripe of the diode goes to the square pad as noted in the silk screen)

[lunatictaco]

I see you’re still taking orders for the pcb as of 2020. Is this true as of today?

[hasu]

yes

[lunatictaco]

yes

AMAZING. I will email you soon!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[toniwonkanobi]

It's even in via now (sort of): https://github.com/the-via/keyboards/pull/128

[bigapplepietart]

Just sent an email for a plate and PCB.

[billm]

hey is there a vial firmware that works with alps64? I've been using tmk for several years but I have other vial keyboards and it would be easier to program them all the same way. It looks like there's a folder for it in vial-qmk. I went ahead and downloaded vial-qmk but the resulting hex built with make alps64:vial, while being recognized by the vial app, just freaks out and throws OS error messages and buzzers and stuff. Anybody know how to get this working? Thx.