M-64 (updated 16APR2014)

[Melvang]

Alright I can't hold out info from you guys until this project gets finished.  I have to share what I have so far.

For this project I will be building a from scratch TKL keyboard with a hardwired Teensy 2.0 based matrix.  With some added flavor.  For the most part the entire thing aside from electrical stuffs and the caps is all going to be 316 or 304 stainless steel.  The reason for the 304 is because it has better corrosion resistance than 316, and there will be no protective coating on this just a hand done brushed finish.

Construction is going to consist of the following

1/4" thick stainless steel top cover machined by me

1/2" thick stainless steel sides machined by me with detachable cable

bottom is yet to be determined but will not be discussed here until finished

switch plate will consist of four 1/16" stainless steel plates bolted together.  Top switch plate will but plain square cherry holes with costar only stab holes (cherry stab wires won't work with the thicker plate).  The bottom 3 switch plates will have a slightly larger hole from front to back only to keep as much material there as I can.  The purpose here is to increase weight and 100% eliminate any and all flex in the switch plate without stand offs to the plate. 

The teensy will be mounted via the Teensy break out board that can be found here.  Feel free to download these files and use at will.  Price from osh park was 10.15+shipping if I remember correctly.  Just give OldDataHands credit for designing that wonderful part.  The breakout board will actually be mounted to top of the top cover above the navigation block on standard sized mother board spacers with the teensy below the top cover.  I have already measured, cut off LED leads will reach this far. 

Also mounted to the top cover is going to be 2 cherry MX switches that will be functioning as hard wired power and reset switches.  Between these switches will reside a selector knob that will allow me to select between both power and reset disengaged, power switch only, reset switch only, and both engaged.  This selector switch is courtesy of my dads Fisher Studio Standard receiver from the early 1970's that no longer worked and was getting to difficult to find the replacement parts.  Also a huge thank you to LargeFry for helping me sort out that selector switch.  You saved me a TON of time here.

I will also be moving the HDD activity LED to under my ESC key again as I have already done on my costar Das.  Plus I will be bringing 12 volt power to the keyboard case for some under chassis lighting.  Details on this have yet to be ironed out.

I know what you are saying.  But USB, power switch, reset switch, HDD LED, and 12 volt power?  Thats 12 wires are you going to have 3 USB cords for this thing?.  Ahh that my friends is what I have currently done and finished up aside from a quick coat of paint.  Behold my detachable 12 wire cord for the Brushed Beauty.


The layout is one of my own creations.  This may or may not be exactly what I am planning on doing.  Image of proposed layout is in post number 27 in this thread.  The only thing that might change is going to be the size of the space bar.  I may end up being 9.75x or 10x.

There might be a couple other details that might come up with this between now and finished product.


This is the connector used.  The old Centronics 36 connector used on printer cables for years.  All I need to do here is add a couple coats of paint.  Picked up a can of Krylon Fusion satin black for plastic.  Here's to hoping it sticks







All current pics are uploaded for the cord.  The actual USB cable is inside the other 8 wires that are braided using the 8 strand round braid with alternating colors.  I also stripped the outer black insulation off the USB cable and left the wire and mylar wrapping around the actual USB wires.  The only thing I had to modify on the connectors was to remove the strain relief piece.  The hood actually fits tight enough it should be just fine the way it is. 

And before anyone asks NO I will not make one of these cables for you.  This was a royal PITA.  Considering I had to figure out how to sleeve a 10 foot piece of 22 ga wire with 1/16" cable sleeving.  But I conquered and got er dunn.  I can however explain how I was able to sleeve a single 9' 20 ga wire with 1/16" cable sleeving fairly quickly without inching the wire through that sleeve the entire way.  If I would have done it that way I would still be trying to sleeve those wires.  A very nice tutorial on the braid can be found here.  It was a royal pain for the first half but once I got to the second half it started going a lot smoother and easier.  This piece is around 7 feet long.

Here is a finalized layout with the one thing that can change will be the space bar.  It will be the only cap on the bottom row and will be centered between the inside edges of the Shift keys.



Here is a JPG of my top plate.


Here is a couple jpg's of my final design for the plate made up into an assembly I have not included drilled holes for where they are going to be bolted together as I am going to do that myself.





Space bar stabilizers will fit 8, 9, 9.75?, and 10unit space bar.

Here is an image of what I plan on doing with the top cover.



And here is an image of the case with top cover.  Tomorrow I will get around to including the plates.  It actually turns out it is going to weigh significantly less than what I had thought but according to SolidWorks it is still about 10 pounds with just the sides and the top cover.  I have not added any chamfers yet but I am thinking of polishing the chamfers and having the rest brushed.



And this is a jpg of the final keyboard design.  I just need to fix the spacebar stabilizer locations as I think either they are to low or I just need to move the plate and everything else up a touch.



Well I have fixed the spacebar stab issue.  Just had to move them up a touch.  This thing looks like it is going to be a bit lighter than I thought.  I might have to address that during the actual assembly process.


Melvang



*Edit log*
04OCT2013 - fixed spelling and added tutorial info on the braid
23FEB2014 - Added final layout.
24FEB2014 - Added final design for top plate.
25FEB2014 - Added JPG's for final plate design
04MAR2014 - Changed title of project
14APR2014 - Added image of planed top cover
16APR2014 - Added image of case with top cover And image of full assembly after fixing space bar stab issues and include the mass properties from Solid Works. 

[Photekq]

I've been in the 'I CANNOT WAIT TO SEE THIS FINISHED' boat for a long time now.

I don't know why I didn't think about layering SS pieces for the switch plate.. *facepalm

Cable looks really friggin' amazing!

 

[Melvang]

I've been in the 'I CANNOT WAIT TO SEE THIS FINISHED' boat for a long time now.

I don't know why I didn't think about layering SS pieces for the switch plate.. *facepalm

Cable looks really friggin' amazing!

 

The biggest reason I am going to go with the layered switch plate over the single piece is because the tightest tolerance I can find for laser cut in 1/4 inch stainless is +/-0.020 where the Cherry spec tolerance is +/-.002.

Edit Sorry about the slow progress.  That tends to happen when you have 2 kids under 5 years old and are working 50+ hours a week.  Last summer I did 3 months straight of 7 12 hour days.

[SpAmRaY]

That's a wicked cable!!

Stupid question, how exactly will you interface it with your computer? will you make an adapter?

[Melvang]

That's a wicked cable!!

Stupid question, how exactly will you interface it with your computer? will you make an adapter?

I have the other half of the connector that I will just fab into a blank PCI cover and just distribute the wires where they need to go.  Same with the keyboard side. 

Speaking of which I still need to find a template for the hole I need to cut into the PCI cover unless I can source up an old card with that plug I can just salvage the slot cover from.

[MOZ]

Subbed

[Melvang]

The nice thing with this cable is if someone wants to do this you can add USB pass through to your keyboard without another controller board to the keyboard as it would just essientally be an extension cord coming from the USB headers from the motherboard and you don't need 2 plugs or another cable/usb hub sitting on your desk.

[CPTBadAss]

That cable looks incredible man. And I think this is going to shape up to be amazing. I love the idea of a selector switch.

Also, skip the laser cutting, MILL EVERYTHING. That's truly beast mode

[Melvang]

If I could keep the tolerance on an old manual Bridge Port I would love to but I think there is to much radial play in the bearings for that to come out right.  I might give it a try on some scrap though and see how it comes out.

[CPTBadAss]

So fix the Bridgeport first. Next build a keyboard. Then become the ultimate badass

[Melvang]

If it was mine it would have less than 0.001" radial play  but since it isn't mine i don't think the wife would be happy with me spending that much on bearings.  I will try out a couple holes on some scrap steel when I head over there this week to make the new grates for my smoker.

[CalmB4tehPwn]

Now melv. You know you want a chainmaille casing for the cable like we talked about.

I see now why you wanted it. It didn't really make sense before, but now I understand.

[MOZ]

That reminds me, your solution for connector ends for the chainmaille?

[CalmB4tehPwn]

That reminds me, your solution for connector ends for the chainmaille?

Normally I wouldn't want to derail a thread, but since cable armor was Melvang's idea, it's an opportunity to give him some credit as well.

I'm still waiting on my cable. I've got the rings to put it together, and I think Nubbs and I have worked out a couple viable options. It mostly depends on how they look.

Though it will be VERY easy and nice looking for cables that go into the board, because I can just create a throat that fits into the slot for the cable, in the case, with a wider point on the other side. So it'll end at, and be hooked into the case.

Mini-USB is still a concern, but we're working it.

[mkawa]

holy crap! THIS is what you were asking me about? this is insane man! (in the best way of course)

[Melvang]

holy crap! THIS is what you were asking me about? this is insane man! (in the best way of course)

And this is why I like doing stuff in hardware vs software.  Not my total area of expertise but water still rolls downhill.  errr uhh

[inteli722]

Behemoth you say?




On topic, that looks amazing!

[xavierblak]

Speaking of which I still need to find a template for the hole I need to cut into the PCI cover unless I can source up an old card with that plug I can just salvage the slot cover from.

I'm sure I have some PCI brackets with DB25 punch-outs available in them if you can't located one.

Did you order the parts for this yet or are you still in the planning stage?

[Melvang]

Thanks for all the encouragement guys.  It really keeps me focused on this project.  I wouldn't say that I am in the planning stage.  I would say that I am in the material acquisition stage while still ironing out a couple details

xavierblak- that would be great but this cable doesn't use the db25 connector on the pc side.  It will be the Cen36 connector with the wire clips  for retention on both ends of the cable.  I realize that normally this cable had a cen36 on one end and a db25 on the other end but not this one.  It has the cen36 connector on both ends.

[xavierblak]

Right. I should have noticed that. Is a PCI slot big enough for the centronics connector? I don't think I've ever seen them on a pc, I'm used to seeing them on the printer instead.

[Melvang]

yup I might have to just mod the pc side connector into the case.  No big deal though.  I think the connector will fit but to take the cover out you would have to take the wire clips off first.  Ill have to do some checking on that one though.
 

[Neebio]

Have you considered how many pins of the connector you'll be using for the +12v power/ground lines?  You'll probably want to use a couple for each, since the voltage and current you'll be putting through those pins might be quite a bit higher than they were originally designed for! Splitting the flow over a couple pins (and then recombining after the connector) will eliminate most risk.

Also, 3/4" of stainless in just the top and middle, and more (maybe?) to come for the bottom?  This thing is going to double as a bludgeoning weapon!  I like that...

[Melvang]

Have you considered how many pins of the connector you'll be using for the +12v power/ground lines?  You'll probably want to use a couple for each, since the voltage and current you'll be putting through those pins might be quite a bit higher than they were originally designed for! Splitting the flow over a couple pins (and then recombining after the connector) will eliminate most risk.

Also, 3/4" of stainless in just the top and middle, and more (maybe?) to come for the bottom?  This thing is going to double as a bludgeoning weapon!  I like that...

as far as power over these pins i don't think it is going to be an issue.  At most all I am going to be pushing is two 12" CCFL and two 4" CCFL's.  If you have seen the connector for the power switch that comes on the backplate for those it is absolutely SKIMPY.

[Neebio]

Have you considered how many pins of the connector you'll be using for the +12v power/ground lines?  You'll probably want to use a couple for each, since the voltage and current you'll be putting through those pins might be quite a bit higher than they were originally designed for! Splitting the flow over a couple pins (and then recombining after the connector) will eliminate most risk.

Also, 3/4" of stainless in just the top and middle, and more (maybe?) to come for the bottom?  This thing is going to double as a bludgeoning weapon!  I like that...

as far as power over these pins i don't think it is going to be an issue.  At most all I am going to be pushing is two 12" CCFL and two 4" CCFL's.  If you have seen the connector for the power switch that comes on the backplate for those it is absolutely SKIMPY.

Full edge lighting... nice

[Melvang]

Have you considered how many pins of the connector you'll be using for the +12v power/ground lines?  You'll probably want to use a couple for each, since the voltage and current you'll be putting through those pins might be quite a bit higher than they were originally designed for! Splitting the flow over a couple pins (and then recombining after the connector) will eliminate most risk.

Also, 3/4" of stainless in just the top and middle, and more (maybe?) to come for the bottom?  This thing is going to double as a bludgeoning weapon!  I like that...

as far as power over these pins i don't think it is going to be an issue.  At most all I am going to be pushing is two 12" CCFL and two 4" CCFL's.  If you have seen the connector for the power switch that comes on the backplate for those it is absolutely SKIMPY.

Full edge lighting... nice

yup and the bottom of the sides are going to "float" about 1/8" off the desk surface for FULL edge lighting.  The feet will be sitting inside the edges of the case.  I have some ideas floating around in my head for this as well.

[mkawa]

Right. I should have noticed that. Is a PCI slot big enough for the centronics connector? I don't think I've ever seen them on a pc, I'm used to seeing them on the printer instead.

yep, believe it or not some people used to put them on HBAs. right next to freaking dip switches. god i hated the scsi chain unique id system.

[Melvang]

Right. I should have noticed that. Is a PCI slot big enough for the centronics connector? I don't think I've ever seen them on a pc, I'm used to seeing them on the printer instead.

yep, believe it or not some people used to put them on HBAs. right next to freaking dip switches. god i hated the scsi chain unique id system.

What is an hba?  Also can anyone confirm if a centronics connector will fit onto a pci slot?  If I have to take the wire clips off to install that is not a problem.

If it won't fit I think what I can do is remove the two bottom pci covers and then remove the strip between them and make one cover to cover the entire gap.  This would be where I can install it here.

[Melvang]

This is the proposed layout.  If I can get confirmation of larger sized space bars from the Toxic set GB I will go as large of a space bar as I can.  SP does have molds up to 10x which is what I would love to shoot for.



And here is the proposed idea for the case without top cover



Edit.  Changing layout to a standard TKL layout ish.  See bottom of OP.

[CalmB4tehPwn]

That looks suspiciously like the calm depths GB color scheme, there melvang.

[Melvang]

it is but this keyboard is getting the toxic set

[CalmB4tehPwn]

You're right, Calm Depths might be a bit elegant for this beast.

[Melvang]

So this is what my proposed layout is going to be.  Details on the space bar may change.  But I was thinking of adding a couple pedals under my desk for control and alt instead of having them in the primary layer in my navigation cluster.  What do you guys think?  Keep in mind that I am a gamer 99% of the time for typing.  About the only other time I use modifiers is for the occasional copy paste.  Thoughts comments or suggestions?

Melvang

[CPTBadAss]

I still think you're crazy for not wanting to have proper modifiers on your keyboard .

[Melvang]

I still think you're crazy for not wanting to have proper modifiers on your keyboard .

Can I email you my plate design for checking for proper spacing and all that stuff?  Just have switch holes with stabilizer holes laid out.  Still debating on having the laser cutter do the holes for the mount to the case or if I want to do that myself.  Also debating on a logo to put in the plate.

[Melvang]

Well my savings and vacation funds finally dropped into my account so I will be on the hunt for some 1/2" thick stainless plate.  300 series prefered

[Melvang]

Well I had a bit of a chuckle when I asked 7bit over at deskthority permission to use a couple of his legends.

Re: Legend Usage
To: Rotti
Rotti wrote:
That was FAST. Thanks for this 7bit. It will probably be a while since one of the colors in this group buy is a custom color so I am going to way until this GB goes through to send in my order for the custom keys. My 6 key navigation block is going to use 1.5, 1, 1.5 keys. The 1.5's are going to be steped so I can use 1u legends on them and wanted something a bit out of the ordinary, since nothing else about this keyboard is going to be ordinary. About the only stock piece on this build is the Teensy controller. I even built a bad ass cable for this using Centronics 36 connectors.

Rotti.
They have stepped 1.5 units DCS keys?


I am Rotti on that site.

[Melvang]

Just got a call back from a contractor I have worked for in the past.  I am getting an 18"x18"x1/2" and an 8"x18"x1/4" piece of 304 stainless for $50.  All I have to do is drive the hour to pick it up.  WOOT.

[Melvang]

Currently finalizing details on sizing and attachment methods for the plate to the rest of the case.  If someone would be able/willing to look over my plate design to double check for proper spacing and alignment that would be great.  Mostly I am looking for verification for the stab locations.  I know I don't have spacebar locations yet but I am only going to have one and it will be the biggest one I will be able to get my hands on.

Also I have updated the OP with a finalized layout minus spacebar size.

[Melvang]

Added final top plate design pic to OP.  I will retain all source files until I am typing on this at which point I will release all files for open source. 

The one exception is the Teensy breakout board.  Those files are already available.

[OldDataHands]

I think you should get those ctrl, alt, mod pedals now and use them for a while to make sure that you will be happy without
mods - before you cut plates. My sister recently tried out footpedals and was not pleased.

[Melvang]

I think you should get those ctrl, alt, mod pedals now and use them for a while to make sure that you will be happy without
mods - before you cut plates. My sister recently tried out footpedals and was not pleased.

Thanks for the advice but I don't think I will actually need them.  In my head I am seeing that I should only need 1 or 2 keys actually setup as dual role.  Shift will stay in the same place, Ctrl will be on capslock since I don't really have that much of a use for it, and I can put Alt on the Tab since I think that would have the least impact on my typing with activating on key up.  I might have to put a function key on Enter or \.

[Melvang]

Added JPG's to OP showing my plate design with second plate just for the capslock.  The purpose of this is to be able to swap the location from center to off center stem without needing to remove the entire lot of switches to change the plate.

[HoffmanMyster]

Not that it needs to be said, but this is awesome.  Looking forward to some updates soon!

[Melvang]

I currently have my plate designs sent to The_Beast for quotes.  I am going to wait until the Toxic set goes to production to have them cut in the off chance that the space bar pack doesn't make the cut.  I am currently working on getting the top cover designed.  I have the bottom section pretty much figured out but I have some special stuff in store for the upper section of it that I will not be revealing until it is assembled.  After I work out details for the top cover then I will move onto designing the actual sides of the case.

[OverKill]

LOOK AT THAT SICK UPDATE

[Melvang]

Need to fix some interference issues now.

[Melvang]

I have submitted my entire package of parts to a local shop with laser abilities that actually works in conjunction with the paint shop that did the powder coating for the GH version of the Panavises.

[Melvang]

Well I got my quote back and found out I have the money for the parts.  Now to just straighten out some logistics around tolerances and price.

[CPTBadAss]

Haha, isn't that always the issue? How tight can my tolerances be without ruining my wallet?

[Melvang]

Haha, isn't that always the issue? How tight can my tolerances be without ruining my wallet?

That is the issue right now.  The guy I was talking to didn't sound to confident on what the tolerances are.  Though he did say +/-.005".  At this point I am looking to see if I can get those tolerances tightened up for a couple of the parts.  Namely the top switch plate and the caps lock plate.

Cpt, did you are the last image in the op with the mass properties in it?