Post by: LifeZ on Sat, 07 April 2018, 05:30:46
This group buy is for a LZ GH V2
Limited to 95 Units
Winkeyless(84) :
Winkey(87,86) :
IC thread
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93561.0
================================================
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
================================================
Specifications:
Top : Aluminum case
Bottom plate & Round Foot: BRASS(PVD COATING)
Switch plate : Aluminum(silver), Polycarbonate(Clear), Brass(PVD Coating), Carbon
ISO + ANSI
PCB:
Fully Programmable
Full LED backlighting
Full SMT(pre-soldered Device, Diodes, Resistors)
-------------------------------------------------
Case Colors:
SILVER / BLACK / GRAY / BLUE / Champegne Gold
Basic kit 1 set of include 1 pcb & 1 LZ BAG
-------------------------------------------------
-.Additional Parts
Extra PCB
Extra Switch plate
PCB Mount Cherry Genuine Stabz(1kit)
Acrylic Diffuser
-------------------------------------------------
Price
Basic kit : $397
(excluding paypal fee and shipping fee)
Shipping:
Different depending on Order Option (
Defult 1 set(Box) of weights : about 4.0kg
EMS shipping Price (1set) with Tracking number
Asia : $40
EU, Canada : $63
Usa : $75
-------------------------------------------------
'
L3 TKL (same LZ CLS, TX87)
The PCB is Designed/Developed by Leeku
The PCB is Programmed with JigOn firmware
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=2702787
-------------------------------------------------
Note.
Switch plate
It is some Burr.a little scratch It is common.
It is not a defective product.
Order deadline 2018-04-08 ~ 04-18
Payment deadline 2018-04-18 ~ 04-28
Production 20 ~ 24 weeks from Payment deadline
-------------------------------------------------
Order Here
-------------------------------------------------
Order List
-------------------------------------------------
Post by: Signature on Sun, 08 April 2018, 04:44:00
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 08 April 2018, 05:06:02
What color will the aluminum plate be?
Post by: ryptide11 on Sun, 08 April 2018, 05:42:26
Post by: poolside on Sun, 08 April 2018, 06:18:29
Are the plates compatible with the CLS TKL?
Post by: sitch on Sun, 08 April 2018, 06:22:50
Post by: yap68 on Sun, 08 April 2018, 06:27:53
Post by: LightningXI on Sun, 08 April 2018, 07:32:04
What does the angle of the board end up being after adding the bar?
Would also love color samples.
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Sun, 08 April 2018, 09:06:50
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 08 April 2018, 09:22:46
Post by: Hydrolithium on Sun, 08 April 2018, 09:26:48
Hope I made it in!
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 08 April 2018, 09:47:02
I'd still really like to know the color of the aluminium plates since we were not able to choose colors.
Post by: Puddsy on Sun, 08 April 2018, 09:53:40
Post by: beamingrobot on Sun, 08 April 2018, 09:57:30
Placed my order a few hours ago when I saw the thread go live.
I'd still really like to know the color of the aluminium plates since we were not able to choose colors.
It's listed in the OP:
Code: [Select]
Switch plate : Aluminum(silver)
Post by: Nas on Sun, 08 April 2018, 10:57:24
Post by: limitz on Sun, 08 April 2018, 11:02:38
Post by: theillumedpanda on Sun, 08 April 2018, 11:12:18
Is this the same colour of grey as LZ CLS?I‘d like to know that as well. Looks like a very nice keyboard, but I‘d love to see a few more pictures LZ!
Post by: aaron6301 on Sun, 08 April 2018, 11:47:07
Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
Post by: jb1830 on Sun, 08 April 2018, 12:39:36
Post by: hayt on Sun, 08 April 2018, 13:20:41
Post by: bminhz on Sun, 08 April 2018, 13:22:25
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 08 April 2018, 13:22:39
Oh, okay thanks.Placed my order a few hours ago when I saw the thread go live.
I'd still really like to know the color of the aluminium plates since we were not able to choose colors.
It's listed in the OP:Code: [Select]Switch plate : Aluminum(silver)
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:10:53
The GB thread went up yesterday, do these sell out that fast?
I'm relatively new here, which is why I ask.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:12:03
Is the order deadline a typo or is the deadline actually today?
The GB thread went up yesterday, do these sell out that fast?
I'm relatively new here, which is why I ask.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Yes they typically sell out rather fast
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:19:08
Damn, so I should assume it's all sold out?Is the order deadline a typo or is the deadline actually today?
The GB thread went up yesterday, do these sell out that fast?
I'm relatively new here, which is why I ask.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Yes they typically sell out rather fast
I don't see any mention of fcfs or raffle.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: xondat on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:28:07
Damn, so I should assume it's all sold out?Is the order deadline a typo or is the deadline actually today?
The GB thread went up yesterday, do these sell out that fast?
I'm relatively new here, which is why I ask.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Yes they typically sell out rather fast
I don't see any mention of fcfs or raffle.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
If the form is open, decent chance there are still spots. I personally would get 10% more in case people drop out, but everyone is different.
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:30:57
Sorry, you lost me at 10% more. What do you mean you'd get 10% more?Damn, so I should assume it's all sold out?Is the order deadline a typo or is the deadline actually today?
The GB thread went up yesterday, do these sell out that fast?
I'm relatively new here, which is why I ask.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Yes they typically sell out rather fast
I don't see any mention of fcfs or raffle.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
If the form is open, decent chance there are still spots. I personally would get 10% more in case people drop out, but everyone is different.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:34:15
Sorry, you lost me at 10% more. What do you mean you'd get 10% more?Damn, so I should assume it's all sold out?Is the order deadline a typo or is the deadline actually today?
The GB thread went up yesterday, do these sell out that fast?
I'm relatively new here, which is why I ask.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Yes they typically sell out rather fast
I don't see any mention of fcfs or raffle.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
If the form is open, decent chance there are still spots. I personally would get 10% more in case people drop out, but everyone is different.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
A waitlist essentially in case the people who won drop out
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:36:18
Oh, he meant it from the perspective of someone running the GB. Got it, thanks for the clarity everyone :)Sorry, you lost me at 10% more. What do you mean you'd get 10% more?Damn, so I should assume it's all sold out?Is the order deadline a typo or is the deadline actually today?
The GB thread went up yesterday, do these sell out that fast?
I'm relatively new here, which is why I ask.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Yes they typically sell out rather fast
I don't see any mention of fcfs or raffle.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
If the form is open, decent chance there are still spots. I personally would get 10% more in case people drop out, but everyone is different.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
A waitlist essentially in case the people who won drop out
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:38:48
Is the angle still adjustable by flipping the stand direction?
Really hoping it is. Like the V1.
Post by: iNViSiBiLiTi on Sun, 08 April 2018, 14:40:50
Blue :)
Are the plates compatible with the CLS TKL?
yes, I pmed him asking.
Post by: kevinzavier on Sun, 08 April 2018, 18:18:38
Post by: crtexcnndrm99 on Sun, 08 April 2018, 18:25:08
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:11:45
Awe Yeah! :)
What color will the aluminum plate be?
alu plate is only silver.
Post by: kevinzavier on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:29:38
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:35:41
Blue :)
Are the plates compatible with the CLS TKL?
Yes, plates compatible with the CLS TKL
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:36:31
FCFS or raffle?FCFS, but winkey is first-come-first-served
Winkey , limited to 20 units
Post by: nug on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:41:45
FCFS, but winkey is first-come-first-servedSo winkeyless is raffle? Or are both FCFS?
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:42:53
winkey is FCFS!FCFS, but winkey is first-come-first-servedSo winkeyless is raffle? Or are both FCFS?
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:45:26
[attach=1]
Blue
[attach=3]
Champegne Gold
[attach=2]
Post by: Jedi on Sun, 08 April 2018, 19:51:08
FCFS, but winkey is first-come-first-servedSo winkeyless is raffle? Or are both FCFS?
I think what LZ is saying is that there are 90 units but there are only 20 that are winkey and that the first 20 who ask for WinKey get it so if there are 99 people who joined and 29 wanted WinKey, the first 20 in the list got WinKey, the remaining 9 will get neither because the 9 extra persons chose WinKey. The next up to 70 Winkeyless buyers will get winkeyless keyboards and after that the groupbuy will close.
Remember LZ is in Korea and has to translate to English, so hope this makes sense to everybody asking. :thumb:
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 08 April 2018, 20:17:37
Post by: Lansky on Mon, 09 April 2018, 03:38:09
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:03:25
IC....
[attach=1]
lol
Some are in production.
I will change the number of winkey to 35 pieces. FCFS
Post by: poolside on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:07:15
Blue :)
Are the plates compatible with the CLS TKL?
Yes, plates compatible with the CLS TKL
Thanks, this is great.
Any chance for ALPS plates and ALPS PCBs?
Post by: Jhors2 on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:11:22
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:11:36
Alps plate is possible, but apls pcbs can't.....Blue :)
Are the plates compatible with the CLS TKL?
Yes, plates compatible with the CLS TKL
Thanks, this is great.
Any chance for ALPS plates and ALPS PCBs?
Post by: bminhz on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:12:31
Any estimate on when we will know if we got in or not?
second this. A list would be nice
Post by: wholypantalones on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:17:57
hummmmm...
IC....
(Attachment Link)
lol
Some are in production.
I will change the number of winkey to 35 pieces. FCFS
Don't think I'm safe any more.
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:27:38
Order check
Order check
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GJHRXvTsI_2A9ufeDpjdrPEDWgattMTfMBAhQvFLIBY/edit?usp=sharing (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GJHRXvTsI_2A9ufeDpjdrPEDWgattMTfMBAhQvFLIBY/edit?usp=sharing)
Post by: nug on Mon, 09 April 2018, 19:34:18
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Mon, 09 April 2018, 20:50:25
Thanks everyone for their help answering my earlier questions!
Went from Razer Blackwidow to Contra to Rama M60 and LZ GH. My wallet hates this forum, r/mk, and all the enablers out their. Too late to turn back now eh?
Thanks LZ!
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 09 April 2018, 21:04:31
Post by: Halverson on Mon, 09 April 2018, 21:37:12
Post by: hayt on Tue, 10 April 2018, 08:22:03
Is the angle still adjustable by flipping the stand direction?
Really hoping it is. Like the V1.
LZ can we confirm if the bar rotated will be able to change the angle?
Edit* Also, is there any option for a steel plate & bar in place of brass?
Post by: LifeZ on Tue, 10 April 2018, 21:28:54
Is the angle still adjustable by flipping the stand direction?
Really hoping it is. Like the V1.
LZ can we confirm if the bar rotated will be able to change the angle?
Edit* Also, is there any option for a steel plate & bar in place of brass?
LZ can we confirm if the bar rotated will be able to change the angle?
-> yes.
is there any option for a steel plate & bar in place of brass?
-> no.
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Tue, 10 April 2018, 21:32:58
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: wholypantalones on Wed, 11 April 2018, 00:17:35
Updated buyer list?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
At the end of the previous page?
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Wed, 11 April 2018, 00:26:45
Placed an order yesterday and didn't see the list update. Just want to make sure everything went through with the google doc, all is well, and I'm in good standing as a GB participant.Updated buyer list?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
At the end of the previous page?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: Puddsy on Wed, 11 April 2018, 00:46:16
Placed an order yesterday and didn't see the list update. Just want to make sure everything went through with the google doc, all is well, and I'm in good standing as a GB participant.Updated buyer list?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
At the end of the previous page?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
it's manually updated, give it 24 hours
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Wed, 11 April 2018, 01:00:11
I thought that might be the case. Thanks :)Placed an order yesterday and didn't see the list update. Just want to make sure everything went through with the google doc, all is well, and I'm in good standing as a GB participant.Updated buyer list?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
At the end of the previous page?
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
it's manually updated, give it 24 hours
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: CommonCurt on Wed, 11 April 2018, 01:08:52
Is the angle still adjustable by flipping the stand direction?
Really hoping it is. Like the V1.
LZ can we confirm if the bar rotated will be able to change the angle?
Edit* Also, is there any option for a steel plate & bar in place of brass?
LZ can we confirm if the bar rotated will be able to change the angle?
-> yes.
is there any option for a steel plate & bar in place of brass?
-> no.
So glad about the bar rotation being able to change the angle.
What are the two different angles it can be set at?
Same as original?
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/CurtisandCrystal/GH%20Pics%20For%20or%20From%20GeekHack/NozQ5Hu.png)
Post by: LifeZ on Wed, 11 April 2018, 01:54:55
around 7.4 to 9.5 deg.Is the angle still adjustable by flipping the stand direction?
Really hoping it is. Like the V1.
LZ can we confirm if the bar rotated will be able to change the angle?
Edit* Also, is there any option for a steel plate & bar in place of brass?
LZ can we confirm if the bar rotated will be able to change the angle?
-> yes.
is there any option for a steel plate & bar in place of brass?
-> no.
So glad about the bar rotation being able to change the angle.
What are the two different angles it can be set at?
Same as original?Show Image(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/CurtisandCrystal/GH%20Pics%20For%20or%20From%20GeekHack/NozQ5Hu.png)
Post by: CommonCurt on Wed, 11 April 2018, 19:40:27
Hey sorry if it's been mentioned before, but will the brass plate be PVD coated like the bottom of the case?
Post by: nug on Wed, 11 April 2018, 19:59:54
LZ,
Hey sorry if it's been mentioned before, but will the brass plate be PVD coated like the bottom of the case?
It says in the OP "Brass(PVD Coating)" :)
Post by: CommonCurt on Wed, 11 April 2018, 20:01:44
Thanks. I hate reading threads on my phone. I always seem to miss something.LZ,
Hey sorry if it's been mentioned before, but will the brass plate be PVD coated like the bottom of the case?
It says in the OP "Brass(PVD Coating)" :)
Post by: Nas on Thu, 12 April 2018, 00:55:29
Post by: LifeZ on Thu, 12 April 2018, 06:04:31
[attachimg=1]
Post by: dorf on Thu, 12 April 2018, 06:06:22
Post by: CommonCurt on Thu, 12 April 2018, 06:18:00
CNC runsHaven't been this excited in a while :)
(Attachment Link)
Post by: Helldrop on Thu, 12 April 2018, 07:36:36
CNC runs
(Attachment Link)
Faster than expected! Getting butterflies!
Post by: Velvet_Crowe on Fri, 13 April 2018, 14:24:13
I sent you two PMs. Please ignore the first one, I'd like to stay in the group buy.
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Sat, 14 April 2018, 10:17:35
Post by: aaron6301 on Sat, 14 April 2018, 10:33:23
Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 14 April 2018, 10:35:22
Post by: cgrums on Sat, 14 April 2018, 10:58:08
Post by: popkorn62 on Sat, 14 April 2018, 11:23:52
======•======
What I need to assist you: order # and/or ticket #
https://txkeyboards.com/en/support?view=support
Post by: hayt on Sat, 14 April 2018, 12:48:42
Post by: Waateva on Sat, 14 April 2018, 13:38:57
Post by: Lansky on Sat, 14 April 2018, 13:46:43
Post by: Velvet_Crowe on Sat, 14 April 2018, 14:43:27
Post by: poolside on Sat, 14 April 2018, 16:56:26
Alps plate is possible, but apls pcbs can't.....Blue :)
Are the plates compatible with the CLS TKL?
Yes, plates compatible with the CLS TKL
Thanks, this is great.
Any chance for ALPS plates and ALPS PCBs?
Would brass be used to make ALPS plates? Would they be the same price as the extra brass MX plates?
Post by: odd on Sat, 14 April 2018, 20:29:30
Post by: BishBashBosh on Sat, 14 April 2018, 20:38:50
Post by: LifeZ on Sat, 14 April 2018, 21:56:02
brass is only mx plate. can not make alps plate.Alps plate is possible, but apls pcbs can't.....Blue :)
Are the plates compatible with the CLS TKL?
Yes, plates compatible with the CLS TKL
Thanks, this is great.
Any chance for ALPS plates and ALPS PCBs?
Would brass be used to make ALPS plates? Would they be the same price as the extra brass MX plates?
Alps plate is only STS plate.
Post by: LifeZ on Sat, 14 April 2018, 21:58:58
I just paid mine. Is there any chance to change from winkey version to a winkeyless, I realized I made a mistake based on one being a FCFS so I got confused when I put the order in.okay, winkey to winkeyless. fixed.
can not change to WinKey any more.
Post by: eyedrop on Sat, 14 April 2018, 23:14:27
Post by: LifeZ on Sat, 14 April 2018, 23:16:46
What is the payment deadline for those that received an invoice?
payment deadline : april,28
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 16 April 2018, 01:30:42
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Mon, 16 April 2018, 14:20:16
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Post by: PavelPetel on Wed, 18 April 2018, 04:48:37
Post by: ryptide11 on Wed, 18 April 2018, 04:53:35
Post by: AuDiTH on Thu, 19 April 2018, 00:28:25
Post by: Nas on Thu, 19 April 2018, 13:05:55
Post by: wholypantalones on Fri, 20 April 2018, 08:41:34
Post by: odd on Sat, 21 April 2018, 12:22:14
I just paid mine. Is there any chance to change from winkey version to a winkeyless, I realized I made a mistake based on one being a FCFS so I got confused when I put the order in.okay, winkey to winkeyless. fixed.
can not change to WinKey any more.
Awesome, thank you. Also I thought I paid when I got the invoice but turns out I didn't. Not sure how that happened but I just checked my PayPal saw the invoice as unpaid and paid the invoice. Let me know if there are any issues since I'm a bit stumped on this, thanks again.
Post by: YisSerL on Thu, 26 April 2018, 15:46:19
Post by: nug on Thu, 26 April 2018, 16:57:36
Post by: Puddsy on Thu, 26 April 2018, 17:17:43
Would it be possible to use a different PCB in this case? I'm thinking of getting something like an LFK TKL with the USB-C daughter card if it can fit.
the cutout will only fit miniUSB, can tell by the pictures
any A.87 PCB should work though
Post by: LifeZ on Thu, 26 April 2018, 19:15:40
Would it be possible to use a different PCB in this case? I'm thinking of getting something like an LFK TKL with the USB-C daughter card if it can fit.
the cutout will only fit miniUSB, can tell by the pictures
any A.87 PCB should work though
can not use to a.87 pcb.
only, L3 TKL(LZ CLS, TX87 Include leeku pcb) and Nerd PCB
Post by: LifeZ on Thu, 26 April 2018, 19:16:45
Would it be possible to use a different PCB in this case? I'm thinking of getting something like an LFK TKL with the USB-C daughter card if it can fit.I don't have LFK TKL information.
Post by: Delirious on Thu, 26 April 2018, 20:39:37
Would it be possible to use a different PCB in this case? I'm thinking of getting something like an LFK TKL with the USB-C daughter card if it can fit.I don't have LFK TKL information.
Lfk pcb is OEM spacing, aka .5u gap between f-row and num-row. It’s not compatible with a87 footprint pcb.
Post by: mustcode on Fri, 27 April 2018, 03:58:07
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 30 April 2018, 08:05:50
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
Post by: aaron6301 on Mon, 30 April 2018, 08:19:06
Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
Post by: hayt on Mon, 30 April 2018, 08:20:18
ORDER CLOSE.
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
So excited :)
Post by: Lansky on Mon, 30 April 2018, 08:25:58
ORDER CLOSE.
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
\o/
Post by: ak_xf1re on Mon, 30 April 2018, 08:33:01
Post by: Helldrop on Mon, 30 April 2018, 08:54:21
ORDER CLOSE.
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
The best news ever. Super-excited!
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 30 April 2018, 09:00:31
Post by: oatmicro on Mon, 30 April 2018, 09:10:14
Post by: Nas on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:13:44
So hyped.
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:20:48
ORDER CLOSE.Any renders of LZ-SE MP?
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:21:24
http://lzlife.tistory.com/ORDER CLOSE.Any renders of LZ-SE MP?
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:24:12
Thanks, but I was meaning any new renders/samples that might show the sides & back.http://lzlife.tistory.com/ORDER CLOSE.Any renders of LZ-SE MP?
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:25:50
Ah yeah, the only thing on there is top and showing the back weight.Thanks, but I was meaning any new renders/samples that might show the sides & back.http://lzlife.tistory.com/ORDER CLOSE.Any renders of LZ-SE MP?
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:27:19
I should have specifically said "new" renders.Ah yeah, the only thing on there is top and showing the back weight.Thanks, but I was meaning any new renders/samples that might show the sides & back.http://lzlife.tistory.com/ORDER CLOSE.Any renders of LZ-SE MP?
Production NOW.
Participants in GH v2 GB will be given a priority in LZ SE MP GB. :thumb:
I hate typing on my phone ☺
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:29:47
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 30 April 2018, 19:30:55
The real question is, what is the LZ ghost? Anyone know?yeah lol
maybe acrylic keyboard?
Post by: wholypantalones on Mon, 30 April 2018, 20:24:00
Post by: LightningXI on Tue, 01 May 2018, 01:33:41
Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
Post by: Puddsy on Tue, 01 May 2018, 01:44:38
I'll have an eye out on progress for MP.
Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
:eyes:
Post by: AuDiTH on Sat, 05 May 2018, 23:08:40
Post by: mike52787 on Fri, 11 May 2018, 09:54:50
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Tue, 22 May 2018, 21:16:20
Post by: xondat on Tue, 22 May 2018, 21:29:02
LZ, or anyone else, can you comment on whether I can fit a split right shift? The pcb appears to have the spot for it, could I sneak a split right shift in without using a stab?
No sneaking needed, it does.
Post by: LifeZ on Tue, 22 May 2018, 21:38:17
LZ, or anyone else, can you comment on whether I can fit a split right shift? The pcb appears to have the spot for it, could I sneak a split right shift in without using a stab?Support split right n left shift n backspace.
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Tue, 22 May 2018, 21:39:11
Post by: Nas on Thu, 07 June 2018, 00:00:25
Post by: LifeZ on Thu, 07 June 2018, 01:34:46
Any progress LZ? :D
haha, I will update you next week. :cool:
Post by: Nas on Thu, 07 June 2018, 01:42:31
I know you must be busy so thank you for the reply :thumb:
Post by: 82d28a on Mon, 11 June 2018, 16:25:01
Thanks
Post by: Puddsy on Mon, 11 June 2018, 16:53:40
Hi, how can I change my delivery address?
Thanks
PM LZ, he's very responsive
Post by: 82d28a on Mon, 11 June 2018, 17:10:27
Hi, how can I change my delivery address?
Thanks
PM LZ, he's very responsive
Maybe he is busy, he hasn't responded to me.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: LifeZ on Tue, 12 June 2018, 00:36:21
1. CASE CNC - 65%
2. Brass feet - 80%
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Post by: CommonCurt on Tue, 12 June 2018, 00:54:11
Update, 06.12.2018Whoo boy : )
1. CASE CNC - 65%
2. Brass feet - 80%
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Post by: Lansky on Tue, 12 June 2018, 04:21:49
Update, 06.12.2018
1. CASE CNC - 65%
2. Brass feet - 80%
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Looking good! ;D
Post by: dorf on Tue, 12 June 2018, 04:26:33
Update, 06.12.2018
1. CASE CNC - 65%
2. Brass feet - 80%
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Yum yum!
Post by: DALExSNAIL on Tue, 12 June 2018, 06:37:12
Post by: mike52787 on Wed, 13 June 2018, 08:30:45
Post by: bball2 on Wed, 13 June 2018, 22:53:51
Post by: Jhors2 on Fri, 15 June 2018, 00:31:18
Post by: mike52787 on Fri, 15 June 2018, 08:33:58
I sent you a PM LZ.Me too, please respond whenever you have the time LZ. it's no rush.
Post by: cgrums on Sat, 23 June 2018, 23:51:55
Post by: cgrums on Wed, 27 June 2018, 09:51:33
I'm looking to let go of my spot. Grey WK with brass plate, switch films, extra PCB and stabs. PM me.
Spot taken, good luck to everybody else looking.
Post by: Nas on Thu, 12 July 2018, 04:13:30
Post by: CommonCurt on Wed, 18 July 2018, 00:12:55
Any updates LZ? ;DBeen wondering this myself.
Post by: LifeZ on Thu, 19 July 2018, 19:45:53
1. CASE CNC - 95%
2. Brass feet - 99%
3. Plate - 70%
4. PCB - 60%
5. Bag - 100%
and Primary anodizing test.
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Post by: CommonCurt on Fri, 20 July 2018, 01:50:48
Update, 07.21.2018
1. CASE CNC - 95%
2. Brass feet - 99%
3. Plate - 70%
4. PCB - 60%
5. Bag - 100%
and Primary anodizing test.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the update :)
Just saw the Dexter on your website. Will you be running a GB on here for it also?
Post by: wholypantalones on Fri, 20 July 2018, 04:59:22
Post by: dorf on Fri, 20 July 2018, 06:11:43
Hopefully those PCBs aren't coming from Leeku or it's going to be a while. Lol.
Wassup?
Update, 07.21.2018
1. CASE CNC - 95%
2. Brass feet - 99%
3. Plate - 70%
4. PCB - 60%
5. Bag - 100%
and Primary anodizing test.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Smooth!
Post by: Waateva on Fri, 20 July 2018, 08:05:01
Update, 07.21.2018
1. CASE CNC - 95%
2. Brass feet - 99%
3. Plate - 70%
4. PCB - 60%
5. Bag - 100%
and Primary anodizing test.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the update, can't wait to get it!
Post by: wholypantalones on Fri, 20 July 2018, 09:59:13
Hopefully those PCBs aren't coming from Leeku or it's going to be a while. Lol.Wassup?
Just a comment on how Leeku has become synonymous with not delivering products or taking forever to do it.
Post by: rly27 on Fri, 20 July 2018, 13:55:13
Post by: Puddsy on Mon, 23 July 2018, 22:46:10
Update, 07.21.2018
1. CASE CNC - 95%
2. Brass feet - 99%
3. Plate - 70%
4. PCB - 60%
5. Bag - 100%
and Primary anodizing test.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
i like that blue
good update
Post by: mike52787 on Tue, 07 August 2018, 07:21:50
Post by: Puddsy on Thu, 09 August 2018, 22:19:16
Any updates LZ?
he'll probably update once ano is done
Post by: Nas on Sat, 18 August 2018, 11:22:16
any progress LZ? :thumb:
Post by: Helldrop on Sun, 19 August 2018, 12:26:09
Maybe LZ’ll be back in a moment.
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 19 August 2018, 19:51:23
It was very busy in August and Korea hot summer... lol
The update was late.
Update, 08.20.2018
1. CASE CNC - done
2. Brass feet - done
3. Plate - done
4. PCB - 95% (Complete Production, Flashing F/W)
5. Bag - done
6. Accessories Sorting - done
The product inspection starts around the weekend.
shipped at the end of August or early September as planned. :cool:
Post by: hayt on Sun, 19 August 2018, 19:55:11
Hey,
It was very busy in August and Korea hot summer... lol
The update was late.
Update, 08.20.2018
1. CASE CNC - done
2. Brass feet - done
3. Plate - done
4. PCB - 95% (Complete Production, Flashing F/W)
5. Bag - done
6. Accessories Sorting - done
The product inspection starts around the weekend.
shipped at the end of August or early September as planned. :cool:
TY for update LZ can't wait
Post by: mike52787 on Sun, 19 August 2018, 20:08:27
Post by: bball2 on Sun, 19 August 2018, 20:17:15
Post by: Waateva on Mon, 20 August 2018, 09:21:53
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 20 August 2018, 23:06:41
Hey,Extremely excited, and a little nervous.
It was very busy in August and Korea hot summer... lol
The update was late.
Update, 08.20.2018
1. CASE CNC - done
2. Brass feet - done
3. Plate - done
4. PCB - 95% (Complete Production, Flashing F/W)
5. Bag - done
6. Accessories Sorting - done
The product inspection starts around the weekend.
shipped at the end of August or early September as planned. :cool:
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 20 August 2018, 23:59:15
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 27 August 2018, 21:05:45
Inspection and sorting starts this week.
About, delivery will start as early as two weeks later.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Mon, 27 August 2018, 21:29:23
My home is hell.Hype!
Inspection and sorting starts this week.
About, delivery will start as early as two weeks later.
(Attachment Link)
Great update, stoked to get mine.
Now to sit an wait patiently for LZ SE MP
Post by: Jedi on Mon, 27 August 2018, 22:21:33
Keep up the good work and soon all those boxes will be gone and your home will once again be paradise.
Post by: Helldrop on Tue, 28 August 2018, 05:39:52
Post by: Lansky on Tue, 28 August 2018, 05:45:24
Post by: CommonCurt on Wed, 29 August 2018, 02:27:07
My home is hell.
Inspection and sorting starts this week.
About, delivery will start as early as two weeks later.
(Attachment Link)
Will you be posting anymore pictures after you do the Inspections?
Post by: mike52787 on Fri, 31 August 2018, 15:24:25
Post by: LifeZ on Wed, 05 September 2018, 09:33:11
[attach=1]
Post by: Helldrop on Wed, 05 September 2018, 09:38:23
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
Ready to be stoked! :eek:
Post by: hayt on Wed, 05 September 2018, 09:39:29
Post by: Waateva on Wed, 05 September 2018, 10:36:00
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
But my switches aren't here and ready yet! :'(
Post by: Lansky on Wed, 05 September 2018, 10:42:20
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
Woooo, here we go! :cool:
Post by: jb1830 on Wed, 05 September 2018, 11:23:34
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
Awesome. Super excited for this!
Post by: Lansky on Wed, 05 September 2018, 11:37:41
But my switches aren't here and ready yet! :'(
What switches are you going to put in it?
Post by: Waateva on Wed, 05 September 2018, 11:42:50
But my switches aren't here and ready yet! :'(
What switches are you going to put in it?
Bought a 9009 for it's vintage Clears, which will be lubed, spring swapped, and maybe swapped to SMD tops.
Post by: wholypantalones on Wed, 05 September 2018, 11:53:11
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
Dang, now all my other boards gon collect dust.
Post by: Lansky on Wed, 05 September 2018, 12:15:00
But my switches aren't here and ready yet! :'(
What switches are you going to put in it?
Bought a 9009 for it's vintage Clears, which will be lubed, spring swapped, and maybe swapped to SMD tops.
Sounds sweet, my dude. :)
Post by: Waateva on Wed, 05 September 2018, 12:21:57
But my switches aren't here and ready yet! :'(
What switches are you going to put in it?
Bought a 9009 for it's vintage Clears, which will be lubed, spring swapped, and maybe swapped to SMD tops.
Sounds sweet, my dude. :)
Thanks, what about you?
Post by: Lansky on Wed, 05 September 2018, 12:58:55
But my switches aren't here and ready yet! :'(
What switches are you going to put in it?
Bought a 9009 for it's vintage Clears, which will be lubed, spring swapped, and maybe swapped to SMD tops.
Sounds sweet, my dude. :)
Thanks, what about you?
Either Zealios or retooled blacks. I'll be lubing and spring-swapping both.
Post by: bball2 on Wed, 05 September 2018, 14:17:58
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
So stoked! :thumb:
Post by: MajorKoos on Wed, 05 September 2018, 14:23:42
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
Queue the hype
Post by: Waateva on Wed, 05 September 2018, 14:49:59
But my switches aren't here and ready yet! :'(
What switches are you going to put in it?
Bought a 9009 for it's vintage Clears, which will be lubed, spring swapped, and maybe swapped to SMD tops.
Sounds sweet, my dude. :)
Thanks, what about you?
Either Zealios or retooled blacks. I'll be lubing and spring-swapping both.
Nice, hope they work out how you want!
Post by: AuDiTH on Wed, 05 September 2018, 21:39:14
Ready to ship. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
SO HYPED. Can't wait to see mine!
Post by: mike52787 on Thu, 06 September 2018, 17:34:35
Post by: foxmancore on Fri, 07 September 2018, 01:17:35
Post by: CommonCurt on Fri, 07 September 2018, 02:03:57
Post by: Nas on Fri, 07 September 2018, 02:34:14
Post by: AuDiTH on Fri, 07 September 2018, 03:13:29
Post by: Lansky on Fri, 07 September 2018, 04:02:44
Post by: duynguyenle on Fri, 07 September 2018, 04:06:59
Post by: LifeZ on Fri, 07 September 2018, 07:37:08
Post by: Lansky on Fri, 07 September 2018, 08:07:44
Post by: jb1830 on Fri, 07 September 2018, 20:19:47
All.....Update tracking number :thumb:
Excitement intensifies! Thanks LZ.
Post by: bball2 on Sat, 08 September 2018, 00:42:16
Post by: CommonCurt on Sat, 08 September 2018, 18:20:46
Let's see how long it gets stuck in customs.
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Sat, 08 September 2018, 18:34:27
Mine got to NY.
Let's see how long it gets stuck in customs.
Mines showing arrival time of Tuesday.
Post by: hayt on Sat, 08 September 2018, 18:38:25
Mine got to NY.
Let's see how long it gets stuck in customs.
Mines showing arrival time of Tuesday.
samesies
Post by: CommonCurt on Sat, 08 September 2018, 19:57:14
Yeah, mine says Tuesday also.Mine got to NY.
Let's see how long it gets stuck in customs.
Mines showing arrival time of Tuesday.
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 08 September 2018, 20:40:00
Post by: foxmancore on Sat, 08 September 2018, 22:31:58
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 09 September 2018, 00:30:16
[attach=1]
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 09 September 2018, 00:51:01
POTATO :DGood gawd : )
(Attachment Link)
That blue turned out nice.
Post by: OracleKev on Sun, 09 September 2018, 01:13:39
Post by: dallman5 on Sun, 09 September 2018, 13:32:22
POTATO :D
(Attachment Link)
Awe kinda sad I didn’t go with blue now!
On that note, if anybody wants to swap their blue for my black WKL let me know :)
Post by: trikoi00 on Sun, 09 September 2018, 18:55:21
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/9964c6bd4fdeba72be3f0a0504ad4386.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/68b813c28a612d7b2911280793fda8f7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/1d2009e304a8089ba15bf271ec08f900.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 09 September 2018, 18:59:46
Figure I show how Gold look likeShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/9964c6bd4fdeba72be3f0a0504ad4386.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/68b813c28a612d7b2911280793fda8f7.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/1d2009e304a8089ba15bf271ec08f900.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Gosh darn that's perdy!
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 09 September 2018, 19:16:50
Figure I show how Gold look likeAny issues with anodization (corners, etc.)?Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/9964c6bd4fdeba72be3f0a0504ad4386.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/68b813c28a612d7b2911280793fda8f7.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/1d2009e304a8089ba15bf271ec08f900.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: trikoi00 on Sun, 09 September 2018, 19:18:48
Its Perfect. Anodise surface is smooth. Even smoother than Lz s x h.Figure I show how Gold look likeAny issues with anodization (corners, etc.)?Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/9964c6bd4fdeba72be3f0a0504ad4386.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/68b813c28a612d7b2911280793fda8f7.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/1d2009e304a8089ba15bf271ec08f900.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 09 September 2018, 19:32:04
Cool. I have some kinda ano (I think) marks on the back of my silver CLS-s.Its Perfect. Anodise surface is smooth. Even smoother than Lz s x h.Figure I show how Gold look likeAny issues with anodization (corners, etc.)?Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/9964c6bd4fdeba72be3f0a0504ad4386.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/68b813c28a612d7b2911280793fda8f7.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/1d2009e304a8089ba15bf271ec08f900.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been waiting for years for a LZ-GH v2.
So I'm just praying there are no issues with my finish.
Post by: Sifo on Sun, 09 September 2018, 23:14:59
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 10 September 2018, 02:20:12
Wonder if it's going to show up early tomorrow?
Post by: Lansky on Mon, 10 September 2018, 03:13:08
Figure I show how Gold look likeShow Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/9964c6bd4fdeba72be3f0a0504ad4386.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/68b813c28a612d7b2911280793fda8f7.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/1d2009e304a8089ba15bf271ec08f900.jpg)
Man, that looks dope. Congrats! ;)
Mine just arrived at the WEST PALM BEACH DISTRIBUTION CENTER.
Wonder if it's going to show up early tomorrow?
Please post pics if it does. :-*
What color did you get?
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 10 September 2018, 03:42:59
Mine just arrived at the WEST PALM BEACH DISTRIBUTION CENTER.
Wonder if it's going to show up early tomorrow?
Please post pics if it does. :-*
What color did you get?
Hope I didn't jinx it :))
Okay, I will. I got a Grey winkeyless.
Post by: Lansky on Mon, 10 September 2018, 03:46:58
Mine just arrived at the WEST PALM BEACH DISTRIBUTION CENTER.
Wonder if it's going to show up early tomorrow?
Please post pics if it does. :-*
What color did you get?
Hope I didn't jinx it :))
Okay, I will. I got a Grey winkeyless.
Nice, waiting for a gray WK myself. :thumb:
Post by: wholypantalones on Mon, 10 September 2018, 11:03:58
Quote
Your item cleared United States Customs at 10:33 am on September 10, 2018
Nice.
Post by: nickheller on Mon, 10 September 2018, 11:19:57
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Mon, 10 September 2018, 11:29:43
Post by: Waateva on Mon, 10 September 2018, 11:58:48
Post by: Lansky on Mon, 10 September 2018, 12:05:38
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 12:13:39
Post by: Velvet_Crowe on Mon, 10 September 2018, 12:16:17
(https://i.imgur.com/UlSG3g9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bcF23pW.jpg)
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 12:31:41
(https://i.imgur.com/0V2JnBG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s9NBRE8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zKOwzH1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1QEH4SA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z5v747Q.jpg)
Here is a picture of it from my phone. Real color is somewhere in the middle of these two pics.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ftft0Dm.jpg)
Post by: aaron6301 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 12:34:16
Thanks for sharing your pictures everyone.
Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 10 September 2018, 12:43:38
I think they rang the doorbell and ran.
Post by: beerafffe1 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 16:05:32
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/5b6076f09436777999d7176bd8360c52.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/2bfb0f85c4af47e2ccc550a137cfb118.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/189c748f0e44013c11f28a83817d8782.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/83e1efbe713c971900f942ad0eec509f.jpg)
Sent from my G8441 using Tapatalk
Post by: Signature on Mon, 10 September 2018, 16:20:31
Post by: mike52787 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 16:42:27
Nooooooo! I missed the delivery.Me too :(
I think they rang the doorbell and ran.
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 16:48:17
Makes me a bit nostalgic to see the LZ-GH design again ;D ;D ;DYep :)
I was so excited to see this design come back I couldn't not get it. The V1 was kinda an endgame type board for me and I never ended up getting one so this works :P
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 10 September 2018, 17:11:55
Makes me a bit nostalgic to see the LZ-GH design again ;D ;D ;DYep :)
I was so excited to see this design come back I couldn't not get it. The V1 was kinda an endgame type board for me and I never ended up getting one so this works :P
Me too man!
Post by: trikoi00 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 17:59:26
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: bmilcs on Mon, 10 September 2018, 18:05:45
How many 60% boards do I need to buy for me to realize that I'm TKL for life?
Post by: hayt on Mon, 10 September 2018, 18:20:38
Can't wait to build it this weekend
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1872/44605256031_7f11ff4597_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aXBAAt)
LZ_GH_01 (https://flic.kr/p/2aXBAAt)
Post by: bball2 on Mon, 10 September 2018, 18:46:37
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 10 September 2018, 19:23:38
Nooooooo! I missed the delivery.Me too :(
I think they rang the doorbell and ran.
I dread every time I have something important shipped to me and it's through the USPS.
They almost lost my CLSs.
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 10 September 2018, 19:28:28
(https://i.imgur.com/T0eFaUg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3LGAsLh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4LCoGAl.jpg)
LZ what's the plan for replacement parts?
I have also PM'd you regarding this LZ.
Post by: CommonCurt on Mon, 10 September 2018, 19:45:06
Well I'm a bit bummed atm :'(Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/T0eFaUg.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/3LGAsLh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/4LCoGAl.jpg)
LZ what's the plan for replacement parts?
I have also PM'd you regarding this LZ.
Damn. Sorry to see that man.
Is it just the bottom?
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 10 September 2018, 19:46:38
Well I'm a bit bummed atm :'(Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/T0eFaUg.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/3LGAsLh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/4LCoGAl.jpg)
LZ what's the plan for replacement parts?
I have also PM'd you regarding this LZ.
Damn. Sorry to see that man.
Is it just the bottom?
Yeah it was a real gut punch considering I've really been looking forward to this board. It is just on the bottom. It wouldn't really bother me if it was on the inside but the marks are really noticeable
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 10 September 2018, 20:15:05
The pvd coating bothered me.
We used 30% of the entire schedule.
I will no longer coat the pvd.... :confused:
It protects the brass but it is difficult to work and causes scratches and stains.
lol....
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 10 September 2018, 20:37:23
Yo man,
The pvd coating bothered me.
We used 30% of the entire schedule.
I will no longer coat the pvd.... :confused:
It protects the brass but it is difficult to work and causes scratches and stains.
lol....
I mean I get little defects but these marks on my board are obvious and shouldn't have passed QC imo.
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 10 September 2018, 20:40:15
Yo man,
The pvd coating bothered me.
We used 30% of the entire schedule.
I will no longer coat the pvd.... :confused:
It protects the brass but it is difficult to work and causes scratches and stains.
lol....
I mean I get little defects but these marks on my board are obvious and shouldn't have passed QC imo.
Correct, i missed. waiting for me. haha.
Post by: iamtootallforthis on Mon, 10 September 2018, 21:06:04
Yo man,
The pvd coating bothered me.
We used 30% of the entire schedule.
I will no longer coat the pvd.... :confused:
It protects the brass but it is difficult to work and causes scratches and stains.
lol....
I mean I get little defects but these marks on my board are obvious and shouldn't have passed QC imo.
Correct, i missed. waiting for me. haha.
It happens. I just look forward to getting this replaced
Post by: OracleKev on Mon, 10 September 2018, 22:14:27
F ME. I can't believe I missed out on this.
How many 60% boards do I need to buy for me to realize that I'm TKL for life?
Same here. Duh.
It's never ending cycle TKL and other layout back and forth.
Post by: CommonCurt on Tue, 11 September 2018, 14:08:18
Post by: Lansky on Wed, 12 September 2018, 03:25:21
Post by: wholypantalones on Wed, 12 September 2018, 18:17:53
Finally.
Post by: CommonCurt on Thu, 13 September 2018, 00:50:14
From what I can see so far, my top looks good (I'll be gettin out the ole flashlight and giving it a thorough comb over).
The brass bottom looks good as well. I couldn't get a good picture, but there are some scratches on one side of the bar tho.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1876/44650224221_995813093d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2b2A556)LZ-GH V2 (https://flic.kr/p/2b2A556) by CommonCurt (https://www.flickr.com/photos/commoncurt/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1880/30779811228_fa5a08c3a4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NTUzwu)LZ-GH V2 (https://flic.kr/p/NTUzwu) by CommonCurt (https://www.flickr.com/photos/commoncurt/), on Flickr
Post by: AuDiTH on Thu, 13 September 2018, 03:16:32
https://i.imgur.com/GL0kxvK.jpg
I know it's not gonna show when I finish the build but I'm interested to know if it's possible.
Post by: CommonCurt on Thu, 13 September 2018, 09:00:02
already got hairline scratches on brass bottom :( Does anyone know how I can remove this?
https://i.imgur.com/GL0kxvK.jpg
I know it's not gonna show when I finish the build but I'm interested to know if it's possible.
From what I can see on my bar. It looks like the scratches/marks might be in the PVD coating and not on the brass itself?
I'd like to know if there is way to get them out also, but if they are in the coating I would assume there's not.
Post by: MajorKoos on Thu, 13 September 2018, 09:10:32
already got hairline scratches on brass bottom :( Does anyone know how I can remove this?
https://i.imgur.com/GL0kxvK.jpg
I know it's not gonna show when I finish the build but I'm interested to know if it's possible.
From what I can see on my bar. It looks like the scratches/marks might be in the PVD coating and not on the brass itself?
I'd like to know if there is way to get them out also, but if they are in the coating I would assume there's not.
If it really bugs you perhaps consider getting a home gold plating kit.
You can use the video Linus Tech Tips just did where they gold plated the heat spreader on an Intel 8086K for inspiration.
Post by: AuDiTH on Thu, 13 September 2018, 13:05:26
already got hairline scratches on brass bottom :( Does anyone know how I can remove this?
https://i.imgur.com/GL0kxvK.jpg
I know it's not gonna show when I finish the build but I'm interested to know if it's possible.
From what I can see on my bar. It looks like the scratches/marks might be in the PVD coating and not on the brass itself?
I'd like to know if there is way to get them out also, but if they are in the coating I would assume there's not.
If it really bugs you perhaps consider getting a home gold plating kit.
You can use the video Linus Tech Tips just did where they gold plated the heat spreader on an Intel 8086K for inspiration.
Oh if it's the coating I'll just leave it then. It doesn't bother me that much
Post by: mike52787 on Thu, 13 September 2018, 16:34:43
(https://i.imgur.com/POTndPA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NSjZQ1X.jpg)
Post by: dallman5 on Thu, 13 September 2018, 16:35:54
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Kjm9vfb.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/POTndPA.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/NSjZQ1X.jpg)
Ugh that blue is so good! Lovely pictures :)
Post by: popkorn62 on Thu, 13 September 2018, 17:34:23
Post by: wholypantalones on Thu, 13 September 2018, 17:34:41
Post by: Sifo on Thu, 13 September 2018, 18:35:50
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Kjm9vfb.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/POTndPA.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/NSjZQ1X.jpg)
nice
Post by: LightningXI on Fri, 14 September 2018, 00:33:53
Just received it today! Can’t wait to put it in my closet 🤣Pls. Hit a guy up if you won't use it lol
Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
Post by: dorf on Fri, 14 September 2018, 07:48:57
(https://i.imgur.com/pzC4IVk.jpg?1)
Post by: dorf on Fri, 14 September 2018, 12:06:53
It's an amazing keyboard, weighs in on 3.2 kg
(https://i.imgur.com/9grfu3W.jpg)
Post by: cuongcan2020 on Fri, 14 September 2018, 23:23:10
Post by: packman86 on Fri, 14 September 2018, 23:38:38
Looking for someone who can help me assemble this keyboard.
pleasebemyfriend does build services and is in US-CA, I think.
Post by: bball2 on Sun, 16 September 2018, 17:10:13
Post by: LightningXI on Sun, 16 September 2018, 17:12:30
The main space bar on both of my PCB's doesn't seem to be functioning, testing with tweezers there is no input registered on any of the multiple possible combinations (though the LSPACE and RSPACE pads all seem to be working). Is this a programming thing? I can jumper over to the RSPACE, but it seems odd that both the PCB's would have the same issue.
How funny -- haytorius had the same issue. Gonna ping him.
Post by: bball2 on Sun, 16 September 2018, 17:17:44
How funny -- haytorius had the same issue. Gonna ping him.
Got it sorted out, I think just an issue of how it was pre-programmed.
Downloaded the latest Jigon software from here: http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2702787&mid=board_sw
And changing the bottom row to lctrl lgui lalt space lalt none space none none did the trick, not sure what it was before, but that did the trick! :-)
Post by: hayt on Sun, 16 September 2018, 17:22:17
The main space bar on both of my PCB's doesn't seem to be functioning, testing with tweezers there is no input registered on any of the multiple possible combinations (though the LSPACE and RSPACE pads all seem to be working). Is this a programming thing? I can jumper over to the RSPACE, but it seems odd that both the PCB's would have the same issue.
How funny -- haytorius had the same issue. Gonna ping him.
Got it sorted out, I think just an issue of how it was pre-programmed.
Downloaded the latest Jigon software from here: http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2702787&mid=board_sw
And changing the bottom row to lctrl lgui lalt space lalt none space none none did the trick, not sure what it was before, but that did the trick! :-)
I'm having a similar issue where I can't get my spacebar to activate, whoever, downloading Jigon was not able to fix my issue. In fact, every time I try to "connect keyboard" in the Jigon software, the software just disappears from my screen.
Additionally, when I try to flash the latest firmware (or the reset) software I receive the following communication error:
[attachimg=1]
Also, not all of my RGBs are lighting up and my INS key spot is also not working.
Any advice is much appreciated, thanks!
Post by: bball2 on Sun, 16 September 2018, 17:39:36
Post by: hayt on Sun, 16 September 2018, 17:43:28
@hayt, I had the same issue, but when I loaded up the jigon software I was able to connect without having to do that flash thing first.
I wish this worked but I cannot get my keyboard to interface with the jigon software. Every time I go to keyboard > connect, the software simply disappears off of my screen.
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 16 September 2018, 18:17:42
I've never used this software before.
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Sun, 16 September 2018, 18:28:17
I had a similar issue with one of my two pcbs with not all rgbs lighting up. The top row of rgbs weren't working. The top row seemed to be connected electrically in a series configuration because I added a bit more solder to all the rgb pads and it worked fine after that. So my guess is that you have a cold joint somewhere.The main space bar on both of my PCB's doesn't seem to be functioning, testing with tweezers there is no input registered on any of the multiple possible combinations (though the LSPACE and RSPACE pads all seem to be working). Is this a programming thing? I can jumper over to the RSPACE, but it seems odd that both the PCB's would have the same issue.
How funny -- haytorius had the same issue. Gonna ping him.
Got it sorted out, I think just an issue of how it was pre-programmed.
Downloaded the latest Jigon software from here: http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2702787&mid=board_sw
And changing the bottom row to lctrl lgui lalt space lalt none space none none did the trick, not sure what it was before, but that did the trick! :-)
I'm having a similar issue where I can't get my spacebar to activate, whoever, downloading Jigon was not able to fix my issue. In fact, every time I try to "connect keyboard" in the Jigon software, the software just disappears from my screen.
Additionally, when I try to flash the latest firmware (or the reset) software I receive the following communication error:
[attachimg=1]
Also, not all of my RGBs are lighting up and my INS key spot is also not working.
Any advice is much appreciated, thanks!
I'm having similar issues with the middle spacebar not working, but that seems to be a software thing. Haven't gotten around to building yet, so hopefully when I do, the software thing will sort me out
Post by: poolside on Sun, 16 September 2018, 18:50:21
The main space bar on both of my PCB's doesn't seem to be functioning, testing with tweezers there is no input registered on any of the multiple possible combinations (though the LSPACE and RSPACE pads all seem to be working). Is this a programming thing? I can jumper over to the RSPACE, but it seems odd that both the PCB's would have the same issue.
How funny -- haytorius had the same issue. Gonna ping him.
Got it sorted out, I think just an issue of how it was pre-programmed.
Downloaded the latest Jigon software from here: http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2702787&mid=board_sw
And changing the bottom row to lctrl lgui lalt space lalt none space none none did the trick, not sure what it was before, but that did the trick! :-)
I'm having a similar issue where I can't get my spacebar to activate, whoever, downloading Jigon was not able to fix my issue. In fact, every time I try to "connect keyboard" in the Jigon software, the software just disappears from my screen.
Additionally, when I try to flash the latest firmware (or the reset) software I receive the following communication error:
[attachimg=1]
Also, not all of my RGBs are lighting up and my INS key spot is also not working.
Any advice is much appreciated, thanks!
This happened with both of my PCBs as well. Could not flash them with the reset, L3_170419 or L3_171209 firmware: "Error reading page size...".
I could still connect to the PCBs with JigOn and change the RGB settings for instance. Luckily, all RGB LEDs seemed to light up properly.
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 16 September 2018, 19:10:38
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
Here's a thread with a PDF of how to use the software and features.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=83950.0
Or my Google drive copy: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxj1uQZLldD7TmJwZmF2QjVMdVE/view?usp=drivesdk
Any more questions, feel free to ask and I'll try my best. Now I need to also test my PCB because I haven't as of yet..
Post by: hayt on Sun, 16 September 2018, 19:14:15
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
[attachimg=1]
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Post by: OracleKev on Sun, 16 September 2018, 19:25:13
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yeap, those are the latest.
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 16 September 2018, 19:29:58
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yes, it does matter. I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon.
You want to download L3_FW_RESET.zip. This is actually the 170419 firmware.
If that doesn't work, here's my local copy uploaded to drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Waza6LGTQuO7qHiHQrMtADCrIMcKNyKu/view?usp=sharing
And then JigOn_170419.zip (Key mapping GUI)
Unzip the firmware folder (L3_FW_RESET or JigOn_170419_firmware.zip) and click loadfw.bat and follow the command prompt. Firmware has been updated.
Unzip jiGon and follow the instructions in the above thread pdf or my uploaded copy to update the keymaps, fn layers and rgb leds.
If nothing works on your pcb and your rgb leds light up and keep spinning, you need to reflash the bootloader. Demonstration: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QotwB6m6zC7GtbMq8
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 16 September 2018, 19:50:32
Direct plug computer usb port.
Sometimes USB hubs and USB ports occur.
Post by: OracleKev on Sun, 16 September 2018, 20:27:59
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yes, it does matter. I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon.
You want to download L3_FW_RESET.zip. This is actually the 170419 firmware.
If that doesn't work, here's my local copy uploaded to drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Waza6LGTQuO7qHiHQrMtADCrIMcKNyKu/view?usp=sharing
And then JigOn_170419.zip (Key mapping GUI)
Unzip the firmware folder (L3_FW_RESET or JigOn_170419_firmware.zip) and click loadfw.bat and follow the command prompt. Firmware has been updated.
Unzip jiGon and follow the instructions in the above thread pdf or my uploaded copy to update the keymaps, fn layers and rgb leds.
If nothing works on your pcb and your rgb leds light up and keep spinning, you need to reflash the bootloader. Demonstration: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QotwB6m6zC7GtbMq8
Are you sure? AFAIK, with L3 the latest is supposed to be the greatest.
I have noticed that some boards with preloaded firmware fails to update successfully to the latest firmware.
They need to be reset with L3_FW_RESET first. That might be interpreted as firmware and JigOn supposed to be version matched.
If the firmware and JigOn need to be version matched, then there would be a lot of orphaned firmwares.
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 16 September 2018, 20:34:37
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yes, it does matter. I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon.
You want to download L3_FW_RESET.zip. This is actually the 170419 firmware.
If that doesn't work, here's my local copy uploaded to drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Waza6LGTQuO7qHiHQrMtADCrIMcKNyKu/view?usp=sharing
And then JigOn_170419.zip (Key mapping GUI)
Unzip the firmware folder (L3_FW_RESET or JigOn_170419_firmware.zip) and click loadfw.bat and follow the command prompt. Firmware has been updated.
Unzip jiGon and follow the instructions in the above thread pdf or my uploaded copy to update the keymaps, fn layers and rgb leds.
If nothing works on your pcb and your rgb leds light up and keep spinning, you need to reflash the bootloader. Demonstration: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QotwB6m6zC7GtbMq8
Are you sure? AFAIK, with L3 the latest is supposed to be the greatest.
I have noticed that some boards with preloaded firmware fails to update successfully to the latest firmware.
They need to be reset with L3_FW_RESET first. That might be interpreted as firmware and JigOn supposed to be version matched.
If the firmware and JigOn need to be version matched, then there would be a lot of orphaned firmwares.
Download the 171209 zip and the reset zip. Same files, hence firmware. The reset zip contains firmware and a cmd that resets the hex file iirc.
Also: I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon as I stated above.
Post by: OracleKev on Sun, 16 September 2018, 20:41:42
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yes, it does matter. I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon.
You want to download L3_FW_RESET.zip. This is actually the 170419 firmware.
If that doesn't work, here's my local copy uploaded to drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Waza6LGTQuO7qHiHQrMtADCrIMcKNyKu/view?usp=sharing
And then JigOn_170419.zip (Key mapping GUI)
Unzip the firmware folder (L3_FW_RESET or JigOn_170419_firmware.zip) and click loadfw.bat and follow the command prompt. Firmware has been updated.
Unzip jiGon and follow the instructions in the above thread pdf or my uploaded copy to update the keymaps, fn layers and rgb leds.
If nothing works on your pcb and your rgb leds light up and keep spinning, you need to reflash the bootloader. Demonstration: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QotwB6m6zC7GtbMq8
Are you sure? AFAIK, with L3 the latest is supposed to be the greatest.
I have noticed that some boards with preloaded firmware fails to update successfully to the latest firmware.
They need to be reset with L3_FW_RESET first. That might be interpreted as firmware and JigOn supposed to be version matched.
If the firmware and JigOn need to be version matched, then there would be a lot of orphaned firmwares.
Download the 171209 zip and the reset zip. Same files, hence firmware. The reset zip contains firmware and a cmd that resets the hex file iirc.
Also: I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon as I stated above.
I suppose the procedure you are describing is simple indeed when you are starting off. :thumb:
That said, I want to dispel the notion that firmware and JigOn versions need to be matched.
If that is the case, the latest firmware can not be used. Firmwares have been released more frequently than JigOn.
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 16 September 2018, 20:46:32
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yes, it does matter. I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon.
You want to download L3_FW_RESET.zip. This is actually the 170419 firmware.
If that doesn't work, here's my local copy uploaded to drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Waza6LGTQuO7qHiHQrMtADCrIMcKNyKu/view?usp=sharing
And then JigOn_170419.zip (Key mapping GUI)
Unzip the firmware folder (L3_FW_RESET or JigOn_170419_firmware.zip) and click loadfw.bat and follow the command prompt. Firmware has been updated.
Unzip jiGon and follow the instructions in the above thread pdf or my uploaded copy to update the keymaps, fn layers and rgb leds.
If nothing works on your pcb and your rgb leds light up and keep spinning, you need to reflash the bootloader. Demonstration: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QotwB6m6zC7GtbMq8
Are you sure? AFAIK, with L3 the latest is supposed to be the greatest.
I have noticed that some boards with preloaded firmware fails to update successfully to the latest firmware.
They need to be reset with L3_FW_RESET first. That might be interpreted as firmware and JigOn supposed to be version matched.
If the firmware and JigOn need to be version matched, then there would be a lot of orphaned firmwares.
Download the 171209 zip and the reset zip. Same files, hence firmware. The reset zip contains firmware and a cmd that resets the hex file iirc.
Also: I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon as I stated above.
I suppose the procedure you are describing is simple indeed when you are starting off. :thumb:
That said, I want to dispel the notion that firmware and JigOn versions need to be matched.
If that is the case, the latest firmware can not be used. Firmwares have been released more frequently than JigOn.
Dispel it all you want, I'm not going to argue with you about it. There have been issues outside of mine reported with using a different version of firmware than jiGon in many threads here.
I'm just trying to help people get thier keyboard working regardless.
Post by: OracleKev on Sun, 16 September 2018, 20:51:00
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yes, it does matter. I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon.
You want to download L3_FW_RESET.zip. This is actually the 170419 firmware.
If that doesn't work, here's my local copy uploaded to drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Waza6LGTQuO7qHiHQrMtADCrIMcKNyKu/view?usp=sharing
And then JigOn_170419.zip (Key mapping GUI)
Unzip the firmware folder (L3_FW_RESET or JigOn_170419_firmware.zip) and click loadfw.bat and follow the command prompt. Firmware has been updated.
Unzip jiGon and follow the instructions in the above thread pdf or my uploaded copy to update the keymaps, fn layers and rgb leds.
If nothing works on your pcb and your rgb leds light up and keep spinning, you need to reflash the bootloader. Demonstration: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QotwB6m6zC7GtbMq8
Are you sure? AFAIK, with L3 the latest is supposed to be the greatest.
I have noticed that some boards with preloaded firmware fails to update successfully to the latest firmware.
They need to be reset with L3_FW_RESET first. That might be interpreted as firmware and JigOn supposed to be version matched.
If the firmware and JigOn need to be version matched, then there would be a lot of orphaned firmwares.
Download the 171209 zip and the reset zip. Same files, hence firmware. The reset zip contains firmware and a cmd that resets the hex file iirc.
Also: I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon as I stated above.
I suppose the procedure you are describing is simple indeed when you are starting off. :thumb:
That said, I want to dispel the notion that firmware and JigOn versions need to be matched.
If that is the case, the latest firmware can not be used. Firmwares have been released more frequently than JigOn.
Dispel it all you want, I'm not going to argue with you about it. There have been issues outside of mine reported with using a different version of firmware than jiGon in many threads here.
I'm just trying to help people get thier keyboard working regardless.
Sure knock yourself out :thumb: Just don't spread wrong info. :p
Post by: trikoi00 on Sun, 16 September 2018, 23:21:21
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: MajorKoos on Mon, 17 September 2018, 09:23:40
communication error:
Direct plug computer usb port.
Sometimes USB hubs and USB ports occur.
Yes.
Whenever I see this I just change ports on my USB hub.
Happens with bootmapper client too.
Post by: hayt on Mon, 17 September 2018, 09:30:35
While I am still receiving that same communication error that I posted before, I switched to a new PC and was able to get the Jigon software to connect. So everything seems to be working now!
Post by: MajorKoos on Mon, 17 September 2018, 11:22:49
Thanks, All for your help!
While I am still receiving that same communication error that I posted before, I switched to a new PC and was able to get the Jigon software to connect. So everything seems to be working now!
Could it be you're missing the arduino drivers on that PC?
Post by: nug on Mon, 17 September 2018, 16:07:43
Post by: dorf on Tue, 18 September 2018, 09:53:44
Could it be you're missing the arduino drivers on that PC?
Is there anywhere to find a list of "good to know" when it comes to Leeku PCB and JigOn. I'm also moving from one computer to another, changing ports and suddenly it works sort of. I don't get the automatic visualization by pressing a button, I have to manually click on it and then assign what I want.
So far I've seen the recommendation of using same version of firmware as JigOn. If it works with different version it's luck, if not it's poop.
Arduino drivers? I've never had them installed. I did install them yesterday and tried but it behaved the same.
USB cable must or should be inserted directly to the motherboard?
How about using a virtual machine?
I don't reassign keys alot but when I do it would be nice to have it working. So if anyone have good info to share please do so. From reading various threads where GBs with Leeku PCBs have been included it's seems like alot of people have alot of problems.
The LZ-case is amazing but the issues with PCBs takes away some of the joy.
Post by: MajorKoos on Tue, 18 September 2018, 10:57:02
Could it be you're missing the arduino drivers on that PC?
Is there anywhere to find a list of "good to know" when it comes to Leeku PCB and JigOn. I'm also moving from one computer to another, changing ports and suddenly it works sort of. I don't get the automatic visualization by pressing a button, I have to manually click on it and then assign what I want.
So far I've seen the recommendation of using same version of firmware as JigOn. If it works with different version it's luck, if not it's poop.
Arduino drivers? I've never had them installed. I did install them yesterday and tried but it behaved the same.
USB cable must or should be inserted directly to the motherboard?
How about using a virtual machine?
I don't reassign keys alot but when I do it would be nice to have it working. So if anyone have good info to share please do so. From reading various threads where GBs with Leeku PCBs have been included it's seems like alot of people have alot of problems.
The LZ-case is amazing but the issues with PCBs takes away some of the joy.
Here's the manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v24vygvyl4mvqrm/AABUNcm0BDioYE5QbArje0Kba?dl=1
Keep the app and firmware versions in sync unless you feel like reading the changelog to figure out compatibility on your own.
The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools.
You can use those tools to update the firmware on your keyboard using the L3 hex file without needing to use the L3 software - useful if the app won't connect and you want to upgrade/downgrade the firmware.
VM's won't work - Windows only.
USB 3 hubs/ports can be problematic, and I suspect this accounts for >50% of the reported issues.
Sometimes when you choose the connect option in the software it wont connect - that's when you pick another USB port on your hub or PC (I've seen it with other firmware too).
ymmv
Post by: OracleKev on Tue, 18 September 2018, 20:21:11
When flashing (with loadfw.bat under L3_yymmdd.zip) or updating settings (with JigOn), make sure:
1) L3 board is directly connected to PC's USB
2) There is just one L3 board connected to the PC
If the board is in weird state (not recognized as "L3" device or does not work with the latest firmware update or JigOn)
1) Boot into bootloader (press/short ~ and connect USB, "HIDBOOT" device gets recognized)
2) Run loadfw.bat under L3_FW_RESET.zip
Occasionally, bootloader/firmware are blown due to static electricity or voltage spike from faulty components (especially RGB LEDs), MCU needs to be reprogrammed via ISP loader physically connected to the board.
I haven't seen this being done on GH, so it would be really handy to have someone local (familiar with this sort of things) come up to speed. If you need the connector (looks like this http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_CDST33&document_srl=3854117), make one or talk to someone on kbdlab. My guess is there are fair number of PCBs with blown bootloader/firmware floating around.
If MCU reprogramming doesn't fix things, most likely you are dealing with component failure. This is beyond typical DIY territory, so your best bet is to talk to the GB runner or local guru.
IMO, L3 boards and software are proven with years of track record. It's easy to solder and utilities are all self contained. There are idiosyncrasies like JigOn UI and limited hub/multi device support, but most people don't flash/update their keyboards often.
Post by: MajorKoos on Tue, 18 September 2018, 23:27:27
...
Occasionally, bootloader/firmware are blown due to static electricity or voltage spike from faulty components (especially RGB LEDs), MCU needs to be reprogrammed via ISP loader physically connected to the board.
I haven't seen this being done on GH, so it would be really handy to have someone local (familiar with this sort of things) come up to speed.
...
I corrupted the firmware on a L3 PCB within the first few days (messing around with LEDs) and had to reprogram the bootloader for it to be recognized by windows. There's a breakout on the PCB to program the MCU (it doesn't have native USB), and you can You can use something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9825
If you have a raspberry pi handy you can use it as an AVR programmer via the GPIO pins too - iirc I used avrdude.
Post by: OracleKev on Wed, 19 September 2018, 00:01:40
...
Occasionally, bootloader/firmware are blown due to static electricity or voltage spike from faulty components (especially RGB LEDs), MCU needs to be reprogrammed via ISP loader physically connected to the board.
I haven't seen this being done on GH, so it would be really handy to have someone local (familiar with this sort of things) come up to speed.
...
I corrupted the firmware on a L3 PCB within the first few days (messing around with LEDs) and had to reprogram the bootloader for it to be recognized by windows. There's a breakout on the PCB to program the MCU (it doesn't have native USB), and you can You can use something like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9825
If you have a raspberry pi handy you can use it as an AVR programmer via the GPIO pins too - iirc I used avrdude.
Nicely done! As long as you can program the MCU, there is no reason to be restricted to specific tools!
Post by: dorf on Wed, 19 September 2018, 01:31:18
Could it be you're missing the arduino drivers on that PC?
Is there anywhere to find a list of "good to know" when it comes to Leeku PCB and JigOn. I'm also moving from one computer to another, changing ports and suddenly it works sort of. I don't get the automatic visualization by pressing a button, I have to manually click on it and then assign what I want.
So far I've seen the recommendation of using same version of firmware as JigOn. If it works with different version it's luck, if not it's poop.
Arduino drivers? I've never had them installed. I did install them yesterday and tried but it behaved the same.
USB cable must or should be inserted directly to the motherboard?
How about using a virtual machine?
I don't reassign keys alot but when I do it would be nice to have it working. So if anyone have good info to share please do so. From reading various threads where GBs with Leeku PCBs have been included it's seems like alot of people have alot of problems.
The LZ-case is amazing but the issues with PCBs takes away some of the joy.
Here's the manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v24vygvyl4mvqrm/AABUNcm0BDioYE5QbArje0Kba?dl=1
Keep the app and firmware versions in sync unless you feel like reading the changelog to figure out compatibility on your own.
The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools.
You can use those tools to update the firmware on your keyboard using the L3 hex file without needing to use the L3 software - useful if the app won't connect and you want to upgrade/downgrade the firmware.
VM's won't work - Windows only.
USB 3 hubs/ports can be problematic, and I suspect this accounts for >50% of the reported issues.
Sometimes when you choose the connect option in the software it wont connect - that's when you pick another USB port on your hub or PC (I've seen it with other firmware too).
ymmv
L3 boards are easy to deal with when you are aware of just a few things.
When flashing (with loadfw.bat under L3_yymmdd.zip) or updating settings (with JigOn), make sure:
1) L3 board is directly connected to PC's USB
2) There is just one L3 board connected to the PC
If the board is in weird state (not recognized as "L3" device or does not work with the latest firmware update or JigOn)
1) Boot into bootloader (press/short ~ and connect USB, "HIDBOOT" device gets recognized)
2) Run loadfw.bat under L3_FW_RESET.zip
Occasionally, bootloader/firmware are blown due to static electricity or voltage spike from faulty components (especially RGB LEDs), MCU needs to be reprogrammed via ISP loader physically connected to the board.
I haven't seen this being done on GH, so it would be really handy to have someone local (familiar with this sort of things) come up to speed. If you need the connector (looks like this http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_CDST33&document_srl=3854117), make one or talk to someone on kbdlab. My guess is there are fair number of PCBs with blown bootloader/firmware floating around.
If MCU reprogramming doesn't fix things, most likely you are dealing with component failure. This is beyond typical DIY territory, so your best bet is to talk to the GB runner or local guru.
IMO, L3 boards and software are proven with years of track record. It's easy to solder and utilities are all self contained. There are idiosyncrasies like JigOn UI and limited hub/multi device support, but most people don't flash/update their keyboards often.
I didn't have time yesterday to sit down with this. On the other hand I'm not really having trouble with it either. I just want to reach a point where I feel I can reassign my keys on any computer, at any time.
1. Windows must be used. I have Windows 10 x64 and Windows 7 x64 and have had success on both. Does it matter which Windows version or x86/x64? No virtual environment.
2. Keep firmware and JigOn at same version. This leaves us at version 170419.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=4319637&sid=8eeb015b56e861f18eb781d3e8f1fe95
http://kbdlab.co.kr/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=4319636&sid=70c6a65c1bdab6fe858da44aab626fbc
3. Install arduino drivers. Setup script from QMK. I'm guessing that you mean msys2??
http://www.msys2.org/
4. Is there a way to see what version is flashed from factory? I guess using avrdude and boot the keyboard would give some info?
Thank you for helping me out and I think that others may also have benefit from this.
Post by: Nas on Wed, 19 September 2018, 06:04:50
Post by: wholypantalones on Wed, 19 September 2018, 06:59:06
The Firmware version needs to be the same as the JiGon version or you'll experience some issues connecting.
(Attachment Link)
Here are the latest versions of the Firmware and Jigon on the website. Does it matter that the numbers are not matching?
Yes, it does matter. I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon.
You want to download L3_FW_RESET.zip. This is actually the 170419 firmware.
If that doesn't work, here's my local copy uploaded to drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Waza6LGTQuO7qHiHQrMtADCrIMcKNyKu/view?usp=sharing
And then JigOn_170419.zip (Key mapping GUI)
Unzip the firmware folder (L3_FW_RESET or JigOn_170419_firmware.zip) and click loadfw.bat and follow the command prompt. Firmware has been updated.
Unzip jiGon and follow the instructions in the above thread pdf or my uploaded copy to update the keymaps, fn layers and rgb leds.
If nothing works on your pcb and your rgb leds light up and keep spinning, you need to reflash the bootloader. Demonstration: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QotwB6m6zC7GtbMq8
Are you sure? AFAIK, with L3 the latest is supposed to be the greatest.
I have noticed that some boards with preloaded firmware fails to update successfully to the latest firmware.
They need to be reset with L3_FW_RESET first. That might be interpreted as firmware and JigOn supposed to be version matched.
If the firmware and JigOn need to be version matched, then there would be a lot of orphaned firmwares.
Download the 171209 zip and the reset zip. Same files, hence firmware. The reset zip contains firmware and a cmd that resets the hex file iirc.
Also: I've had some issues using 171209 firmware with 170419 jiGon as I stated above.
I suppose the procedure you are describing is simple indeed when you are starting off. :thumb:
That said, I want to dispel the notion that firmware and JigOn versions need to be matched.
If that is the case, the latest firmware can not be used. Firmwares have been released more frequently than JigOn.
Dispel it all you want, I'm not going to argue with you about it. There have been issues outside of mine reported with using a different version of firmware than jiGon in many threads here.
I'm just trying to help people get thier keyboard working regardless.
Sure knock yourself out :thumb: Just don't spread wrong info. :p
Strange that I've seen a few others post about keeping the firmware and jigon at the same version now, must not be the wrong information. ;D
Post by: MajorKoos on Wed, 19 September 2018, 08:53:39
The "correct' answer is "it depends".
The app communicates with the keyboard via a HID API and sends control codes to put it into programming mode, pull the stored keymap from the eeprom, write a new one back, etc. It's also got bits for the LED's and RGBling. The config is stored on the keyboard and read into the app when you hit "connect".
It's totally possible to rev the app and firmware independently of each other as long as the communication protocol doesn't change and the keymap/config data stays the same. Fixing bugs, updating libraries, etc. are a good example of this and the reason you see the firmware version being incremented more often than the app. If the communications protocol or stored config change you can end up with the app not exposing the feature you want to configure or having it write data back into eeprom that the firmware doesn't recognize and bricking the PCB.
No-one's put together a compatibility matrix so there is a lot of FUD out there about which versions of the app and firmware work with each other. The challenge is that the MCU doesn't support native USB so if you screw up you may need to solder some header pins to the PCB and use an AVR programmer to recover the firmware. It's trivial if you know how and have the tools - otherwise you could apply too much voltage to the wrong pin, fry the MCU completely and get to experience the joys of surface mounting a new one.
If everything above made sense you're more than capable of figuring out what works and doesn't on your own - it's not rocket science. If you don't feel fluffy with the idea of soldering headers to the PCB and using an AVR programmer stick with the app/firmware combo recommended by LZ.
Post by: dorf on Wed, 19 September 2018, 11:40:04
it's not rocket science
Could it be you're missing the arduino drivers on that PC?
Is there anywhere to find a list of "good to know" when it comes to Leeku PCB and JigOn. I'm also moving from one computer to another, changing ports and suddenly it works sort of. I don't get the automatic visualization by pressing a button, I have to manually click on it and then assign what I want.
So far I've seen the recommendation of using same version of firmware as JigOn. If it works with different version it's luck, if not it's poop.
Arduino drivers? I've never had them installed. I did install them yesterday and tried but it behaved the same.
USB cable must or should be inserted directly to the motherboard?
How about using a virtual machine?
I don't reassign keys alot but when I do it would be nice to have it working. So if anyone have good info to share please do so. From reading various threads where GBs with Leeku PCBs have been included it's seems like alot of people have alot of problems.
The LZ-case is amazing but the issues with PCBs takes away some of the joy.
Here's the manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v24vygvyl4mvqrm/AABUNcm0BDioYE5QbArje0Kba?dl=1
Keep the app and firmware versions in sync unless you feel like reading the changelog to figure out compatibility on your own.
The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools.
You can use those tools to update the firmware on your keyboard using the L3 hex file without needing to use the L3 software - useful if the app won't connect and you want to upgrade/downgrade the firmware.
VM's won't work - Windows only.
USB 3 hubs/ports can be problematic, and I suspect this accounts for >50% of the reported issues.
Sometimes when you choose the connect option in the software it wont connect - that's when you pick another USB port on your hub or PC (I've seen it with other firmware too).
ymmvL3 boards are easy to deal with when you are aware of just a few things.
When flashing (with loadfw.bat under L3_yymmdd.zip) or updating settings (with JigOn), make sure:
1) L3 board is directly connected to PC's USB
2) There is just one L3 board connected to the PC
If the board is in weird state (not recognized as "L3" device or does not work with the latest firmware update or JigOn)
1) Boot into bootloader (press/short ~ and connect USB, "HIDBOOT" device gets recognized)
2) Run loadfw.bat under L3_FW_RESET.zip
Occasionally, bootloader/firmware are blown due to static electricity or voltage spike from faulty components (especially RGB LEDs), MCU needs to be reprogrammed via ISP loader physically connected to the board.
I haven't seen this being done on GH, so it would be really handy to have someone local (familiar with this sort of things) come up to speed. If you need the connector (looks like this http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_CDST33&document_srl=3854117), make one or talk to someone on kbdlab. My guess is there are fair number of PCBs with blown bootloader/firmware floating around.
If MCU reprogramming doesn't fix things, most likely you are dealing with component failure. This is beyond typical DIY territory, so your best bet is to talk to the GB runner or local guru.
IMO, L3 boards and software are proven with years of track record. It's easy to solder and utilities are all self contained. There are idiosyncrasies like JigOn UI and limited hub/multi device support, but most people don't flash/update their keyboards often.
I didn't have time yesterday to sit down with this. On the other hand I'm not really having trouble with it either. I just want to reach a point where I feel I can reassign my keys on any computer, at any time.
1. Windows must be used. I have Windows 10 x64 and Windows 7 x64 and have had success on both. Does it matter which Windows version or x86/x64? No virtual environment.
2. Keep firmware and JigOn at same version. This leaves us at version 170419.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=4319637&sid=8eeb015b56e861f18eb781d3e8f1fe95
http://kbdlab.co.kr/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=4319636&sid=70c6a65c1bdab6fe858da44aab626fbc
3. Install arduino drivers. Setup script from QMK. I'm guessing that you mean msys2??
http://www.msys2.org/
4. Is there a way to see what version is flashed from factory? I guess using avrdude and boot the keyboard would give some info?
Thank you for helping me out and I think that others may also have benefit from this.
Where can I find "The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools"?
Post by: MajorKoos on Wed, 19 September 2018, 12:19:54
Where can I find "The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools"?
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware
and for the curious - https://github.com/leeku11
Post by: dorf on Wed, 19 September 2018, 13:24:59
Where can I find "The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools"?
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware
and for the curious - https://github.com/leeku11
This is starting to get helpful.
Do we really need to install the whole build environment just to use JigOn?
Can we pinpoint the specific driver/config instead of bloating our computers?
Post by: MajorKoos on Wed, 19 September 2018, 14:34:15
Where can I find "The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools"?
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware
and for the curious - https://github.com/leeku11
This is starting to get helpful.
Do we really need to install the whole build environment just to use JigOn?
Can we pinpoint the specific driver/config instead of bloating our computers?
You don't need any additional tools or drivers to use JigOn - it communicates with the keyboard via the same HID protocol as your mouse so it's plug and play.
If you're not programming the MCU via the ISP header forget about the QMK tools for now - you don't need them.
I've got half a dozen jigon keyboards of various shapes running JigOn_170419 (because the PCB's follow a spec and store the settings in eeprom so they don't each need custom firmware). Sometimes I get the issue where the app won't connect, and when that happens I change ports on my hub (USB 3). I've had the same problem at times with QMK and bootmapperclient based keyboards too so I suspect it's more of a windows USB thing than a JigOn thing. Doesn't happen often enough for me to want to do anything about it.
Post by: dorf on Thu, 20 September 2018, 01:09:17
Where can I find "The QMK firmware includes a setup script to install all the common arduino drivers and firmware flashing tools"?
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware
and for the curious - https://github.com/leeku11
This is starting to get helpful.
Do we really need to install the whole build environment just to use JigOn?
Can we pinpoint the specific driver/config instead of bloating our computers?
You don't need any additional tools or drivers to use JigOn - it communicates with the keyboard via the same HID protocol as your mouse so it's plug and play.
If you're not programming the MCU via the ISP header forget about the QMK tools for now - you don't need them.
I've got half a dozen jigon keyboards of various shapes running JigOn_170419 (because the PCB's follow a spec and store the settings in eeprom so they don't each need custom firmware). Sometimes I get the issue where the app won't connect, and when that happens I change ports on my hub (USB 3). I've had the same problem at times with QMK and bootmapperclient based keyboards too so I suspect it's more of a windows USB thing than a JigOn thing. Doesn't happen often enough for me to want to do anything about it.
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.
Post by: OracleKev on Thu, 20 September 2018, 02:07:33
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.Did you try Keyboard | Connect (dialog box saying "Connected" should pop up)?
Post by: dorf on Thu, 20 September 2018, 02:29:01
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.Did you try Keyboard | Connect (dialog box saying "Connected" should pop up)?
Yes. Otherwise it’s not possible to reassign keys.
Post by: OracleKev on Thu, 20 September 2018, 02:32:15
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.Did you try Keyboard | Connect (dialog box saying "Connected" should pop up)?
Yes. Otherwise it’s not possible to reassign keys.
Actually that is not correct since you can update keyboard without being in “connected” state.
When in “connected” state, pressing a key on the keyboard does not highlight a button on JigOn UI?
Post by: dorf on Thu, 20 September 2018, 02:46:16
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.Did you try Keyboard | Connect (dialog box saying "Connected" should pop up)?
Yes. Otherwise it’s not possible to reassign keys.
Actually that is not correct since you can update keyboard without being in “connected” state.
When in “connected” state, pressing a key on the keyboard does not highlight a button on JigOn UI?
Ok, didn't know that. I've always been connected. But when I am it does not highlight automatically. I have to manually click on it.
Post by: OracleKev on Thu, 20 September 2018, 07:26:48
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.Did you try Keyboard | Connect (dialog box saying "Connected" should pop up)?
Yes. Otherwise it’s not possible to reassign keys.
Actually that is not correct since you can update keyboard without being in “connected” state.
When in “connected” state, pressing a key on the keyboard does not highlight a button on JigOn UI?
Ok, didn't know that. I've always been connected. But when I am it does not highlight automatically. I have to manually click on it.
Once you are in the connected state, can you put focus on another app like Notepad and confirm a key press enters pcb matrix sequence? e.g. "Esc" should output '[a-a]'
This confirms the keyboard is in the connected state.
If the keyboard does not enter the connected state even if JigOn reports "Connected"
One of the followings could be a cause: 1) L3 board firmware is not up to date 2) L3 board is not directly connected to PC 3) there are multiple L3 boards connected.
Post by: dorf on Thu, 20 September 2018, 13:35:25
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.Did you try Keyboard | Connect (dialog box saying "Connected" should pop up)?
Yes. Otherwise it’s not possible to reassign keys.
Actually that is not correct since you can update keyboard without being in “connected” state.
When in “connected” state, pressing a key on the keyboard does not highlight a button on JigOn UI?
Ok, didn't know that. I've always been connected. But when I am it does not highlight automatically. I have to manually click on it.
Once you are in the connected state, can you put focus on another app like Notepad and confirm a key press enters pcb matrix sequence? e.g. "Esc" should output '[a-a]'
This confirms the keyboard is in the connected state.
If the keyboard does not enter the connected state even if JigOn reports "Connected"
One of the followings could be a cause: 1) L3 board firmware is not up to date 2) L3 board is not directly connected to PC 3) there are multiple L3 boards connected.
So when I read this I could remember seeing the keyboard writing strange characters when connected before. I'm a swede so obviosly I use swedish keyboard. When connected I get "åc+b¨åc+c¨åc+d¨åc+e¨åc+f¨åc+g" when I write QWERTY. Switching over to english keyboard writing QWERTY i get "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" and automatic highlighting works! So lesson learned. Always use english keyboard when using JigOn.
Post by: dorf on Thu, 20 September 2018, 15:20:28
So how come I cannot get the automatic highlighting to work? I have to manually highlight the key I want to reassign.Did you try Keyboard | Connect (dialog box saying "Connected" should pop up)?
Yes. Otherwise it’s not possible to reassign keys.
Actually that is not correct since you can update keyboard without being in “connected” state.
When in “connected” state, pressing a key on the keyboard does not highlight a button on JigOn UI?
Ok, didn't know that. I've always been connected. But when I am it does not highlight automatically. I have to manually click on it.
Once you are in the connected state, can you put focus on another app like Notepad and confirm a key press enters pcb matrix sequence? e.g. "Esc" should output '[a-a]'
This confirms the keyboard is in the connected state.
If the keyboard does not enter the connected state even if JigOn reports "Connected"
One of the followings could be a cause: 1) L3 board firmware is not up to date 2) L3 board is not directly connected to PC 3) there are multiple L3 boards connected.
So when I read this I could remember seeing the keyboard writing strange characters when connected before. I'm a swede so obviosly I use swedish keyboard. When connected I get "åc+b¨åc+c¨åc+d¨åc+e¨åc+f¨åc+g" when I write QWERTY. Switching over to english keyboard writing QWERTY i get "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" and automatic highlighting works! So lesson learned. Always use english keyboard when using JigOn.
I have two more questions that I think needs clarification.
First, it's been mentioned that it's possible to flash l3.hex in other ways. How?
Second, I've seen alot of posts saying that PCB gets borked when leds are soldered. What's up with that? I've not done it and don't feel the need for it but anyways...
Post by: nug on Thu, 20 September 2018, 16:27:00
I have two more questions that I think needs clarification.As far as I know, there are two ways to flash the hex:
First, it's been mentioned that it's possible to flash l3.hex in other ways. How?
Second, I've seen alot of posts saying that PCB gets borked when leds are soldered. What's up with that? I've not done it and don't feel the need for it but anyways...
1) Via the bootloader, using L3_171209.zip from http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2702787&mid=board_sw (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2702787&mid=board_sw) OracleKev discussed this here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=95066.msg2660521#msg2660521 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=95066.msg2660521#msg2660521)
2) Or using an ISP flasher with L3_bootloader.zip from the same kbdlab link above.
Post by: MajorKoos on Fri, 21 September 2018, 09:20:02
At first, even though the keyboard worked in windows the app would not connect or show me the keymap.
Changing ports on the hub didn't work as usual.
I redownloaded the app and it connected fine.
I left the firmware stock.
Post by: Lansky on Sat, 22 September 2018, 11:44:15
(https://i.imgur.com/ofBB1EM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WNiL7Ms.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KjrkKf4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hxixNrp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AUCeX8h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sww3aLl.jpg)
Post by: dorf on Sat, 22 September 2018, 11:48:52
Thanks, All for your help!
While I am still receiving that same communication error that I posted before, I switched to a new PC and was able to get the Jigon software to connect. So everything seems to be working now!
So when you updated the keymap connected with JigOn this solved the issue with the spacebar? Did you have to do anything else?
Post by: hayt on Tue, 25 September 2018, 20:34:39
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/44198571284_30d45703bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2akFeou)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44005938705_14899d2596_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a3DWr8)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31045446818_6bfef3a68b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pio2Js)
Post by: HPE1000 on Tue, 25 September 2018, 23:07:33
Show Image
Show Image
Very happy!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/44198571284_30d45703bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2akFeou)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44005938705_14899d2596_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a3DWr8)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31045446818_6bfef3a68b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pio2Js)
Looks awesome! :thumb:
Post by: Lansky on Wed, 26 September 2018, 04:06:20
Show Image
Show Image
Very happy!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/44198571284_30d45703bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2akFeou)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44005938705_14899d2596_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a3DWr8)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31045446818_6bfef3a68b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pio2Js)
That looks really good. Can't wait to assemble mine. :)
Post by: MajorKoos on Wed, 26 September 2018, 08:10:10
I suspect it weighs more than the CLS.
Post by: Lansky on Thu, 27 September 2018, 04:54:17
It still surprises me how HEAVY it is.
I suspect it weighs more than the CLS.
I agree, every time I move it around I'm surprised by how heavy it is. When you look at it, it doesn't look THAT heavy. And I haven't even assembled mine yet. :)
Post by: Sshimosawa on Thu, 27 September 2018, 13:05:59
Post by: Etherealsound on Thu, 27 September 2018, 13:31:56
the heft threw me, too. its a beast. (Attachment Link)
That's a really nice keyset. Where are those mods from?
Post by: japanesehorrorwriter on Thu, 27 September 2018, 13:55:46
the heft threw me, too. its a beast. (Attachment Link)
That's a really nice keyset. Where are those mods from?
Its a mix: GMK Led Zepp alphas, Samurai Mods, maroon esc from oco.
Post by: japanesehorrorwriter on Thu, 27 September 2018, 16:06:17
Show Image
Show Image
Very happy!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/44198571284_30d45703bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2akFeou)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44005938705_14899d2596_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a3DWr8)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31045446818_6bfef3a68b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pio2Js)
What is that insanely cool desk pad you have here???
Post by: wholypantalones on Fri, 28 September 2018, 06:44:19
Show ImageShow ImageVery happy!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/44198571284_30d45703bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2akFeou)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44005938705_14899d2596_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a3DWr8)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31045446818_6bfef3a68b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pio2Js)
What is that insanely cool desk pad you have here???
Was kinda wondering that myself. :thumb:
Post by: hayt on Fri, 28 September 2018, 10:57:26
Show ImageShow ImageVery happy!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/44198571284_30d45703bd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2akFeou)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44005938705_14899d2596_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a3DWr8)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31045446818_6bfef3a68b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pio2Js)
What is that insanely cool desk pad you have here???
Was kinda wondering that myself. :thumb:
Kitty litter matt :)
Post by: MajorKoos on Fri, 28 September 2018, 11:10:52
bwah ha ha ha ha!
Bravo sir. Bravo.
Post by: Sshimosawa on Sat, 29 September 2018, 00:33:44
Post by: Helldrop on Thu, 04 October 2018, 01:25:19
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Post by: Lansky on Thu, 04 October 2018, 03:53:09
(Attachment Link)
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Post by: Helldrop on Thu, 04 October 2018, 04:43:18
(Attachment Link)
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
Post by: Lansky on Thu, 04 October 2018, 05:24:45
(Attachment Link)
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. :thumb:
Post by: CommonCurt on Thu, 04 October 2018, 06:08:48
(Attachment Link)Wow! That looks amazing.
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Post by: Lansky on Thu, 04 October 2018, 06:28:05
Wow! That looks amazing.
Was the case color red originally?
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
;)
Post by: CommonCurt on Thu, 04 October 2018, 06:32:35
Didn't see where you said it was originally grey.(Attachment Link)
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
Post by: radio_killah on Sat, 06 October 2018, 21:03:12
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 07 October 2018, 03:16:08
The color of the milky.
I will make order. About 5~7 unit.
Preorder ...
https://imgur.com/a/McJrXZJ
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 07 October 2018, 03:23:20
I have changed the color of the remaining quantity after GB finishing.That's awesome.
The color of the milky.
I will make order. About 5~7 unit.
Preorder ...
https://imgur.com/a/McJrXZJ
Is it powdercoated or cerikote?
Post by: LifeZ on Sun, 07 October 2018, 03:29:23
I have changed the color of the remaining quantity after GB finishing.That's awesome.
The color of the milky.
I will make order. About 5~7 unit.
Preorder ...
https://imgur.com/a/McJrXZJ
Is it powdercoated or cerikote?
It is powdercoated
Post by: MajorKoos on Sun, 07 October 2018, 06:05:06
I have changed the color of the remaining quantity after GB finishing.
The color of the milky.
I will make order. About 5~7 unit.
Preorder ...
https://imgur.com/a/McJrXZJ
Looks great :)
Post by: LightningXI on Sun, 07 October 2018, 08:28:01
I have changed the color of the remaining quantity after GB finishing.Oh man. I might be interested. Same cost?
The color of the milky.
I will make order. About 5~7 unit.
Preorder ...
https://imgur.com/a/McJrXZJ
Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
Post by: Helldrop on Sun, 07 October 2018, 09:47:14
I have changed the color of the remaining quantity after GB finishing.
The color of the milky.
I will make order. About 5~7 unit.
Preorder ...
https://imgur.com/a/McJrXZJ
Amazing! It seems a little brighter than cerakoted one.
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 07 October 2018, 10:21:43
Anyone looking to sell?
PM
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 08 October 2018, 02:19:48
all out
Post by: Lansky on Mon, 08 October 2018, 14:32:29
I'm not able to update or reset the firmware either, so I guess it's not actually connected. I've tried four different USB ports (half of them directly on the motherboard) and three different USB cables. No luck.
Any suggestions? :)
Post by: MajorKoos on Mon, 08 October 2018, 15:39:31
I'm having problems programming my PCB. I get the "Connected" pop-up in the JigOn software but it registers no keypresses there. It works fine in Windows.
I'm not able to update or reset the firmware either, so I guess it's not actually connected. I've tried four different USB ports (half of them directly on the motherboard) and three different USB cables. No luck.
Any suggestions? :)
Couple of things to check:
Is your OS set to English US?
Is it the only keyboard that's plugged in?
Is your phone plugged in?
If you download a fresh copy of the JigOn software, launch it and hit connect does it download the keymap or does everything stay gray?
If you connect and then switch to notepad and start typing what output do you get?
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 08 October 2018, 15:44:27
Post by: Lansky on Mon, 08 October 2018, 17:22:42
I'm having problems programming my PCB. I get the "Connected" pop-up in the JigOn software but it registers no keypresses there. It works fine in Windows.
I'm not able to update or reset the firmware either, so I guess it's not actually connected. I've tried four different USB ports (half of them directly on the motherboard) and three different USB cables. No luck.
Any suggestions? :)
Couple of things to check:
Is your OS set to English US?
Is it the only keyboard that's plugged in?
Is your phone plugged in?
If you download a fresh copy of the JigOn software, launch it and hit connect does it download the keymap or does everything stay gray?
If you connect and then switch to notepad and start typing what output do you get?
My OS is set to English US, yes.
It's the only board that's plugged in, my phone is not plugged in.
The JigOn software looks like this after connecting: https://i.imgur.com/zFZdSYo.png
Typing in Notepad gives me this output:
"åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g
So I guess that might be causing the issue. Not sure why it's showing up like that when my keyboard and OS is set to en-US.
EDIT: I just realized that I still had the Danish keyboard layout added in the language menu, apparently it wasn't enough to just switch to the en-US layout, I had to remove the Danish layout. Now it works! ;D
Post by: MajorKoos on Mon, 08 October 2018, 18:11:54
...
I still had the Danish keyboard layout added in the language menu, apparently it wasn't enough to just switch to the en-US layout, I had to remove the Danish layout. Now it works! ;D
I didn't know that was required either.
Thanks for sharing.
Post by: Lansky on Tue, 09 October 2018, 03:47:38
...
I still had the Danish keyboard layout added in the language menu, apparently it wasn't enough to just switch to the en-US layout, I had to remove the Danish layout. Now it works! ;D
I didn't know that was required either.
Thanks for sharing.
No problem, glad I could provide some useful information.
Appreciate the help!
Post by: wholypantalones on Sat, 13 October 2018, 09:38:31
I'm having problems programming my PCB. I get the "Connected" pop-up in the JigOn software but it registers no keypresses there. It works fine in Windows.
I'm not able to update or reset the firmware either, so I guess it's not actually connected. I've tried four different USB ports (half of them directly on the motherboard) and three different USB cables. No luck.
Any suggestions? :)
A little late, but I posted this a while back. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583
Post by: Helldrop on Sat, 20 October 2018, 05:19:13
(Attachment Link)
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. :thumb:
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Here are some pics.
Post by: CommonCurt on Sat, 20 October 2018, 13:34:40
Dat red with grey cerikote bottom looks great. Are you using a brass, or aluminum plate?(Attachment Link)
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Here are some pics.
Post by: Helldrop on Sat, 20 October 2018, 14:12:13
Post by: CommonCurt on Sat, 20 October 2018, 16:13:14
A brass plate. It's the same as yours.
I got a brass & aluminum plate for mine.
Was just wondering if you attempted to cerikote the plate also.
Post by: LifeZ on Sat, 20 October 2018, 23:10:25
(Attachment Link)Awesome :thumb:
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Here are some pics.
Post by: CommonCurt on Sat, 20 October 2018, 23:47:42
(Attachment Link)
Ready to build my GH V2!
The top was re-anodized and the bottom was cerakote-coated.
Very cool with the cerakoting. Would love some more pictures of the bottom. :)
What color did the case have before?
Of course. After finishing building this keeb, I’ll post more pics.
It used to be grey.
Thanks, can't wait to see more of it. :thumb:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Here are some pics.
One last question.
When you got it re-anodized. Did they try to remove some of the old ano first, or did they just re-ano over the grey like it was?
I would think they would have had to remove the PVD coating before Cerakoting the brass?
Post by: Helldrop on Sun, 21 October 2018, 00:56:06
Post by: CommonCurt on Sun, 21 October 2018, 01:22:05
I dunno exactly since I didn’t witness the process. As for re-anodizing, they conducted sanding or resurfacing work before re-anodizing in order to make the surface stuck well. This work seems essential for perfect anodizing. The cerakote need to do sanding, but I heard it’s certainly not essential but better if done.
Yeah, when I asked my local ANO shop the guy said that he basically just ruffs up the finish so the new ANO will stick.
I've really wanted to get a couple of my other kustoms re-anoed, but been nervous to because of the horror stories I've read about the new finish coming out blotchy, or uneven.
I just need to suck it up and go do it. If it turns out that bad I guess I could always just get the whole case cerakoted.
Post by: Helldrop on Sun, 21 October 2018, 01:50:56
I dunno exactly since I didn’t witness the process. As for re-anodizing, they conducted sanding or resurfacing work before re-anodizing in order to make the surface stuck well. This work seems essential for perfect anodizing. The cerakote need to do sanding, but I heard it’s certainly not essential but better if done.
Yeah, when I asked my local ANO shop the guy said that he basically just ruffs up the finish so the new ANO will stick.
I've really wanted to get a couple of my other kustoms re-anoed, but been nervous to because of the horror stories I've read about the new finish coming out blotchy, or uneven.
I just need to suck it up and go do it. If it turns out that bad I guess I could always just get the whole case cerakoted.
The re-anodizing always carries some risks like what you said. If it fails, the cerakote can be the best alternative. It’s possible to cerakote on the failed re-anodized surface, and has even less chance of failure than re-ano does. Gook luck with your challenge, man.
Post by: Lansky on Sun, 21 October 2018, 05:15:47
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Here are some pics.
Looks really nice. Almost makes me want to look into having the brass on my board coated too. :)
Post by: simon5858 on Thu, 25 October 2018, 12:03:39
Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?
Post by: jaymaikan on Thu, 25 October 2018, 12:24:47
I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.
Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?
Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?
Post by: simon5858 on Thu, 25 October 2018, 13:19:06
I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.
Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?
Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?
Thought that might have been it, but now after fiddling around in JigOn it seems that my keymap has gone back to default, where space for some reason is bound to FN. I can update RGB settings, but it wont update the keymap, and i can't update the firmware either, it just gives me a communications error, which seems to be quite common after reading a bit on the topic. I just don't know what to do. I'm locked in a keymap where space is not bound, which means the board is practically useless, and i can't flash it either...
Post by: wholypantalones on Thu, 25 October 2018, 14:44:13
I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.
Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?
Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?
Thought that might have been it, but now after fiddling around in JigOn it seems that my keymap has gone back to default, where space for some reason is bound to FN. I can update RGB settings, but it wont update the keymap, and i can't update the firmware either, it just gives me a communications error, which seems to be quite common after reading a bit on the topic. I just don't know what to do. I'm locked in a keymap where space is not bound, which means the board is practically useless, and i can't flash it either...
Is your usb cable plugged into a hub or directly into the computer?
Quote
Why am I getting a communication error with device?
Plug your USB cable directly into your computer instead of a USB hub.
Replug your usb and try flashing firmware again.
More here => https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583)
Post by: simon5858 on Fri, 26 October 2018, 08:35:28
I am having a problem, where my RGB LEDS are turned on whenever i power down my system, or set it to sleep mode. I have them to be off in the JigOn software, and the effect goes away if i unplug and replug the cable to the board.
Have anyone encountered this problem? And even better, have a fix for it?
Option in bios for motherboard to charge USB ports while computer is off/sleeping?
Thought that might have been it, but now after fiddling around in JigOn it seems that my keymap has gone back to default, where space for some reason is bound to FN. I can update RGB settings, but it wont update the keymap, and i can't update the firmware either, it just gives me a communications error, which seems to be quite common after reading a bit on the topic. I just don't know what to do. I'm locked in a keymap where space is not bound, which means the board is practically useless, and i can't flash it either...
Is your usb cable plugged into a hub or directly into the computer?QuoteWhy am I getting a communication error with device?
Plug your USB cable directly into your computer instead of a USB hub.
Replug your usb and try flashing firmware again.
More here => https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583)
I have now tried with 3 different cables, and tried all the ports on my PC. I am not using a hub. Same error every time: "Error reading page size: Communication error with device".
Read through the guides and saw OracleKev's advice to press "short (~)" to enter bootloader mode and then flash afterwards. I'm unable to get windows to recognize the PCB as a HIDBOOT device though. Have you had any succes with doing it that way?
UPDATE:
Changed input language to english and then plugged the pcb in while holding "short (~)". Thought i had entered bootloader mode, but device was still recognized as L3 and not HIDBOOT. I'm getting the same communications error when flashing, but now i am unable to connect using jigon. It simply closes when i'm pressing connect. The RGB's light up, but don't rotate, and i am unable to type on the board. Did i brick the PCB, and now have to have it reflashed with an ISP?
Post by: MajorKoos on Fri, 26 October 2018, 09:39:30
I'm having problems programming my PCB. I get the "Connected" pop-up in the JigOn software but it registers no keypresses there. It works fine in Windows.
I'm not able to update or reset the firmware either, so I guess it's not actually connected. I've tried four different USB ports (half of them directly on the motherboard) and three different USB cables. No luck.
Any suggestions? :)
Couple of things to check:
Is your OS set to English US?
Is it the only keyboard that's plugged in?
Is your phone plugged in?
If you download a fresh copy of the JigOn software, launch it and hit connect does it download the keymap or does everything stay gray?
If you connect and then switch to notepad and start typing what output do you get?
My OS is set to English US, yes.
It's the only board that's plugged in, my phone is not plugged in.
The JigOn software looks like this after connecting: https://i.imgur.com/zFZdSYo.png
Typing in Notepad gives me this output:
"åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g
So I guess that might be causing the issue. Not sure why it's showing up like that when my keyboard and OS is set to en-US.
EDIT: I just realized that I still had the Danish keyboard layout added in the language menu, apparently it wasn't enough to just switch to the en-US layout, I had to remove the Danish layout. Now it works! ;D
Perhaps this?
Post by: simon5858 on Fri, 26 October 2018, 10:32:01
Perhaps this?
Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.
Post by: MajorKoos on Fri, 26 October 2018, 10:53:37
Perhaps this?
Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.
It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.
From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise. If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty. What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom. Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.
So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?
Post by: simon5858 on Sat, 27 October 2018, 04:37:28
Perhaps this?
Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.
It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.
From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise. If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty. What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom. Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.
So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?
Okay, that is good news. Windows still recognize the board as "L3", and is not complaining about it not working correctly. That being said, the current situation is that i can't use the keyboard, or rather, it is not outputting anything. I do not know if this is due to the board being completely reset in JigOn so nothing is bound, or it doing something else. JigOn is now not responding either, and closes every time i try to connect.
When i was able to get it to connect to JigOn it would output ""åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g" or "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" depending on language settings in windows. So that was working fine i think. Now as to why JigOn is closing when i'm trying to connect now i do not know. I tried deleting my copy and redownloading it to see if i had messed something up, but it would still crash. I read that another user was able to get it to connect with JigOn on another PC, and that way get it to map correctly. I'm going to try that and then update.
UPDATE:
So this is rather weird. I connected it to my laptop to see if JigOn would crash when connecting, which it did. The weird part is that the keyboard IS outputting normal characters when connected, just really slow. I have to hold down the key for about a second before it will output a character. And every key is working, including spacebar, which i bound to something else than FN when the board would connect. So it seems that something has stuck, but it's still very iffy.
Furthermore three of the RGB LED's light up on the back. 2 in the top left hand corner and 1 in the top right hand corner. I do not know if this is a signal for some fault or if it's just the PCB acting up.
I tried an older version of JigOn and it's still crashing. Flashing also only yields a connection error, even on another PC.
Post by: mustcode on Sat, 27 October 2018, 11:00:04
edit: fix bad quote
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 27 October 2018, 11:14:08
Post by: CommonCurt on Sat, 27 October 2018, 11:19:25
Guess I should check my pcb soon since I might not build mine for a few months+1 same here.
Post by: 82d28a on Sat, 27 October 2018, 11:30:21
Post by: Signature on Sat, 27 October 2018, 11:31:54
Post by: dorf on Sat, 27 October 2018, 11:57:52
What version of JigOn are you all using?
170419
Post by: Puddsy on Sat, 27 October 2018, 12:03:26
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
Post by: dorf on Sat, 27 October 2018, 12:08:06
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?
Post by: Puddsy on Sat, 27 October 2018, 12:27:30
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?
this issue has been documented as far back as MIRA SE, but existed before then with far less prevalence
it's been known for a while that leeku PCBs aren't the best quality, but they get used in a lot of TKLs because of how easy they are to get in GB-size quantities
with the H87 and whatever that other new TKL pcb is, i suspect that we'll be seeing a lot less of the TX87 in the future
this isn't to say that the TX87 is bad, i actually really like it becauase jigon is a very intuitive (if slightly buggy) piece of software that's good for newer hobbyists, and it does what most people need it to do very well
Post by: dorf on Sat, 27 October 2018, 12:30:45
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?
this issue has been documented as far back as MIRA SE, but existed before then with far less prevalence
it's been known for a while that leeku PCBs aren't the best quality, but they get used in a lot of TKLs because of how easy they are to get in GB-size quantities
with the H87 and whatever that other new TKL pcb is, i suspect that we'll be seeing a lot less of the TX87 in the future
this isn't to say that the TX87 is bad, i actually really like it becauase jigon is a very intuitive (if slightly buggy) piece of software that's good for newer hobbyists (though QMK is far more powerful), and it does what 95% of people need it to do very well
Thank you. New TKL pcb? Link?
My hopes are up for the h87a.
Post by: hervuli on Sat, 27 October 2018, 14:17:09
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
Is this something that is acknowledged and do you know how far back it goes?
Don't know if it's documented per se, but I know that at this point I won't buy any board that uses a Leeku PCB unless I know there's an alternative that will fit; e.g. GON, H87, C3-LDN etc. I've had issues with Leeku PCBs in at least three separate boards (and I pretty strongly dislike JigOn but that's a separate issue).
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 27 October 2018, 14:53:58
Post by: Signature on Sat, 27 October 2018, 15:03:22
Speaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support :)
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 27 October 2018, 16:17:56
Awesome, thanks! Might do thatSpeaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support :)
Post by: Puddsy on Sat, 27 October 2018, 17:11:31
Awesome, thanks! Might do thatSpeaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support :)
Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something
Post by: HPE1000 on Sat, 27 October 2018, 19:08:45
That would be where I would get it lolAwesome, thanks! Might do thatSpeaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support :)
Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something
Post by: OracleKev on Sat, 27 October 2018, 20:16:00
Perhaps this?
Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.
It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.
From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise. If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty. What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom. Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.
So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?
Okay, that is good news. Windows still recognize the board as "L3", and is not complaining about it not working correctly. That being said, the current situation is that i can't use the keyboard, or rather, it is not outputting anything. I do not know if this is due to the board being completely reset in JigOn so nothing is bound, or it doing something else. JigOn is now not responding either, and closes every time i try to connect.
When i was able to get it to connect to JigOn it would output ""åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g" or "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" depending on language settings in windows. So that was working fine i think. Now as to why JigOn is closing when i'm trying to connect now i do not know. I tried deleting my copy and redownloading it to see if i had messed something up, but it would still crash. I read that another user was able to get it to connect with JigOn on another PC, and that way get it to map correctly. I'm going to try that and then update.
UPDATE:
So this is rather weird. I connected it to my laptop to see if JigOn would crash when connecting, which it did. The weird part is that the keyboard IS outputting normal characters when connected, just really slow. I have to hold down the key for about a second before it will output a character. And every key is working, including spacebar, which i bound to something else than FN when the board would connect. So it seems that something has stuck, but it's still very iffy.
Furthermore three of the RGB LED's light up on the back. 2 in the top left hand corner and 1 in the top right hand corner. I do not know if this is a signal for some fault or if it's just the PCB acting up.
I tried an older version of JigOn and it's still crashing. Flashing also only yields a connection error, even on another PC.
There has been reports like this here and there (flaky connection, firmware reset does not work).
Given frequency and types of users reporting, it doesn't sound like they are novice mistakes (multiple L3 boards, connected through USB hub, etc.).
My guess is somehow some MCUs were programmed wrong. My understanding is MCUs get prepped (pre-programmed) before they are supplied to SMT bin.
Someone needs to try reloading bootloader.
In the end, the PCB is pretty straightforward, consisting of off the shelf parts. I never heard of circuit prints gone wrong (this sort of basics are the strengths of Korean PCBs IMO) on Leeku PCBs. Even if you brick the PCB, replacing MCU and reprogramming it fixes it.
Post by: OracleKev on Sat, 27 October 2018, 20:21:08
That would be where I would get it lolAwesome, thanks! Might do thatSpeaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support :)
Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something
Here is another alternative (there should be others in a87 form factor with stabs facing the same way)
http://winkeyless.com/product/a-87b-pcb/
It's not listed on the English website, so you will have to message them.
Post by: 82d28a on Sat, 27 October 2018, 21:24:55
That would be where I would get it lolAwesome, thanks! Might do thatSpeaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support :)
Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something
Just curious if the north or south side Mini connection will fit the GH 2. I haven't checked mine yet. Based on what I read 1up only has the south side that will not fit LZ. I hope I am wrong, since it is nice to have options.
Post by: OracleKev on Sat, 27 October 2018, 22:21:39
That would be where I would get it lolAwesome, thanks! Might do thatSpeaking of GON, anyone know if a GON tkl pcb would be compatible?Yup! Atleast the NerD TKL V2.0 has LZ keyboard support :)
Where the heck you gonna get one? I guess 1up sells them but they're like $90 or something
Just curious if the north or south side Mini connection will fit the GH 2. I haven't checked mine yet. Based on what I read 1up only has the south side that will not fit LZ. I hope I am wrong, since it is nice to have options.
Top side. Bottom side typically for acryllic board.
Post by: HPE1000 on Sun, 28 October 2018, 09:09:21
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 28 October 2018, 09:50:03
remember to update the firmware before you do anything else
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
I currently have 5+ tkls with TKL87 L3 PCBS (white and black versions) and there's no issue that is plaguing anything that I've noticed over two years.
What seems to be the plague issue you speak of? It also has nothing to do with a TX87, a aluminum housing that kin designs and sells.
Post by: simon5858 on Sun, 28 October 2018, 10:02:31
Perhaps this?
Not that. I've already tried changing input language, and having english as the only input language. I could get JigOn to select the key pressed, but the layout i made would not be flashed on the board. No matter what i do i can't seem to communicate with the board. I've ordered an usbASP and hope to be able to flash the bootloader when i get it.
It windows can't detect it and it shows up as an unknown device then you need to reflash the bootloader.
If the keyboard is recognized as a keyboard or a HID device you don't because the bootloader is working and doing what it needs to - either enter flash mode or hand over to the keyboard firmware for it to do it's thing.
From your last update it sounds like the keymap has been reset to default (FN in stead of space), but it's working as a keyboard otherwise. If that's the case you shouldn't be trying to reflash firmware or bootloader as neither are faulty. What you need to do then is get Jigon working so you can update the keymap that's stored in the eeprom. Reflashing the firmware or bootloader don't touch the eeprom so it wouldn't accomplish anything anyway.
So it's down to figuring out why Jigon can't communicate with the PCB.
You say it can connect now and highlights keys in the UI when you press them, but won't update the keymap when you try writing it back?
When it's in a connected state, what output do you get when typing in notepad?
Okay, that is good news. Windows still recognize the board as "L3", and is not complaining about it not working correctly. That being said, the current situation is that i can't use the keyboard, or rather, it is not outputting anything. I do not know if this is due to the board being completely reset in JigOn so nothing is bound, or it doing something else. JigOn is now not responding either, and closes every time i try to connect.
When i was able to get it to connect to JigOn it would output ""åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+c¨åd+d¨åd+e¨åd+f¨åd+h¨åd+g" or "[c-b][c-c][c-d][c-e][c-f][c-g]" depending on language settings in windows. So that was working fine i think. Now as to why JigOn is closing when i'm trying to connect now i do not know. I tried deleting my copy and redownloading it to see if i had messed something up, but it would still crash. I read that another user was able to get it to connect with JigOn on another PC, and that way get it to map correctly. I'm going to try that and then update.
UPDATE:
So this is rather weird. I connected it to my laptop to see if JigOn would crash when connecting, which it did. The weird part is that the keyboard IS outputting normal characters when connected, just really slow. I have to hold down the key for about a second before it will output a character. And every key is working, including spacebar, which i bound to something else than FN when the board would connect. So it seems that something has stuck, but it's still very iffy.
Furthermore three of the RGB LED's light up on the back. 2 in the top left hand corner and 1 in the top right hand corner. I do not know if this is a signal for some fault or if it's just the PCB acting up.
I tried an older version of JigOn and it's still crashing. Flashing also only yields a connection error, even on another PC.
There has been reports like this here and there (flaky connection, firmware reset does not work).
Given frequency and types of users reporting, it doesn't sound like they are novice mistakes (multiple L3 boards, connected through USB hub, etc.).
My guess is somehow some MCUs were programmed wrong. My understanding is MCUs get prepped (pre-programmed) before they are supplied to SMT bin.
Someone needs to try reloading bootloader.
In the end, the PCB is pretty straightforward, consisting of off the shelf parts. I never heard of circuit prints gone wrong (this sort of basics are the strengths of Korean PCBs IMO) on Leeku PCBs. Even if you brick the PCB, replacing MCU and reprogramming it fixes it.
So you suggest that i try my hand at reloading the bootloader with an ISP flasher? I can't seem to get anything else to work. JigOn is crashing no matter what i try, and i keep getting the communications error when flashing the firmware via USB.
Post by: MajorKoos on Sun, 28 October 2018, 10:45:11
So you suggest that i try my hand at reloading the bootloader with an ISP flasher? I can't seem to get anything else to work. JigOn is crashing no matter what i try, and i keep getting the communications error when flashing the firmware via USB.
If you just want to flash firmware onto the keyboard you can use Atmel Flip to program the MCU.
It would be interesting to see if that works.
if it doesn't it will at least rule out the Jigon app and narrow this down a bit more.
I should have asked earlier - did you put LEDs in the switches too?
That's the only time I've ever had to reflash the bootloader on a L3 PCB.
It drew too much power and corrupted the firmware.
Post by: simon5858 on Sun, 28 October 2018, 10:54:25
Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.
I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.
I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.
I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.
What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.
Post by: Puddsy on Sun, 28 October 2018, 12:38:44
remember to update the firmware before you do anything else
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
I currently have 5+ tkls with TKL87 L3 PCBS (white and black versions) and there's no issue that is plaguing anything that I've noticed over two years.
What seems to be the plague issue you speak of? It also has nothing to do with a TX87, a aluminum housing that kin designs and sells.
If you go through all the TKL GB threads that use the PCB there are always a few people complaining of issues, and I've heard of more on slack.
Personally I've never had any problems with the TKL L3. It's not limited to any specific version as far as I can tell. Something to do with the voltage regulation chip.
Post by: MajorKoos on Sun, 28 October 2018, 13:33:03
FINAL UPDATE:
Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.
I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.
I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.
I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.
What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.
Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.
Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.
Post by: simon5858 on Sun, 28 October 2018, 13:53:33
FINAL UPDATE:
Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.
I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.
I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.
I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.
What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.
Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.
Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.
Honestly i am not sure that my problem was with the PCB's hardware as much as the JigOn software. My theory is that JigOn somehow managed to corrupt the USB drivers and itself and a wipe of both did the trick. To add to it all, when i finally managed to get my board back connected, the layout was very, very strange. I don't know what JigOn was doing, but it was not working as intended.
Post by: MajorKoos on Sun, 28 October 2018, 14:47:42
FINAL UPDATE:
Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.
I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.
I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.
I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.
What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.
Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.
Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.
Honestly i am not sure that my problem was with the PCB's hardware as much as the JigOn software. My theory is that JigOn somehow managed to corrupt the USB drivers and itself and a wipe of both did the trick. To add to it all, when i finally managed to get my board back connected, the layout was very, very strange. I don't know what JigOn was doing, but it was not working as intended.
Windows uses the same HID driver for your mouse so the driver itself was not corrupted.
It does however keep track of devices which were previously plugged in so that if you plug it back in any settings you configured will persist.
Sometimes those old entries can cause issues when plugging the device back in and the only recourse is to remove those old devices.
My money says that's what got borked.
I wonder if it has something to do with the language settings on PC at the time the keyboard was first connected so there was something cached in the registry Jigon couldn't deal with.
http://ilantz.com/2010/04/11/delete-old-removed-or-disconnected-device-drivers/
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/315539/device-manager-does-not-display-devices-that-are-not-connected
Post by: dorf on Sun, 28 October 2018, 14:54:15
FINAL UPDATE:
Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.
I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.
I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.
I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.
What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.
Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.
Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.
Honestly i am not sure that my problem was with the PCB's hardware as much as the JigOn software. My theory is that JigOn somehow managed to corrupt the USB drivers and itself and a wipe of both did the trick. To add to it all, when i finally managed to get my board back connected, the layout was very, very strange. I don't know what JigOn was doing, but it was not working as intended.
Windows uses the same HID driver for your mouse so the driver itself was not corrupted.
It does however keep track of devices which were previously plugged in so that if you plug it back in any settings you configured will persist.
Sometimes those old entries can cause issues when plugging the device back in and the only recourse is to remove those old devices.
My money says that's what got borked.
I wonder if it has something to do with the language settings on PC at the time the keyboard was first connected so there was something cached in the registry Jigon couldn't deal with.
http://ilantz.com/2010/04/11/delete-old-removed-or-disconnected-device-drivers/
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/315539/device-manager-does-not-display-devices-that-are-not-connected
+1 on this. As I said before I see more issues among non-english users.
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 28 October 2018, 16:06:19
remember to update the firmware before you do anything else
if the problem still persists it's probably the same hardware issue that's been plaguing TX87s for the last year or so
I currently have 5+ tkls with TKL87 L3 PCBS (white and black versions) and there's no issue that is plaguing anything that I've noticed over two years.
What seems to be the plague issue you speak of? It also has nothing to do with a TX87, a aluminum housing that kin designs and sells.
If you go through all the TKL GB threads that use the PCB there are always a few people complaining of issues, and I've heard of more on slack.
Personally I've never had any problems with the TKL L3. It's not limited to any specific version as far as I can tell. Something to do with the voltage regulation chip.
Most of it seems like user error or lack of information, aside from the whole chip thing. Never had a single problem with one of these PCBs except when I borked the bootloader on one trying to follow kins instructions on how to solder rgb LEDs over the arrow cluster.
Post by: OracleKev on Sun, 28 October 2018, 20:51:00
FINAL UPDATE:
Hello everyone. I was having a huge amount of issues with the L3 PCB and the JigOn software.
I was not in the original GB, and got the board already built. I do not know if the PCB was flashed before building and fiddling with the layout, so i can't say if that had any influence on my experiences. What i can say though is that i upon recieving the board was able to change layout no problem.
I started out having a problem where the LED's would light up when plugged in to my computer, which was turned off. I tried turning them off in JigOn, which did nothing to sort the problem out. After a couple of tries and a bit of fiddling with the software i was unable to use the board, and about 3 of the backside LED's was permanently turned on. I could not flash the firmware due to communications error and JigOn would crash when trying to connect. All this would not change when trying different USB ports and cables and even PC's.
I have now managed to get the board in a working condition though. What worked for me was to remove the device from windows and redownload JigOn 170419. Then i would open this newly downloaded version of JigOn and then connect the board to a USB2.0 port. After this i was able to turn off the LED's and even able to connect the board and change the layout. I have not tried to flash the firmware, but it works now and i'm scared of ruining it now, so i wont bother to try.
What went wrong i don't know, but it kind of sorted itself out. I hope my experiences can help someone else out with their problems.
Now that actually makes sense. My money says the entry for the USB device in the registry was locked or corrupted.
Deleting it from the device manager is likely what did the trick.
It's probably worth adding that tidbit the the Jigon thread.
Using in-switch LEDs would definitely give me pause - the voltage issue Puddsy mentioned.
That's how I corrupted the bootloader on my LZ Ergo.
RGB backlights seem OK though - less power draw.
I think this analysis (registry corruption fixed via device manager fiddling) is right on.
Also ditto on correlation between bootloader corruption and LEDs/RGBs related power flux. One incident I had was with RGB.
LEDs/RGBs components failure seems to be more frequent than before. No hard data on this, just based on anecdotal count of reports.
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Sun, 02 December 2018, 16:16:47
Post by: Puddsy on Sun, 02 December 2018, 16:29:59
Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
known issue on leeku pcbs
if you push hard it should work
pcbs are more durable than you'd think
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 02 December 2018, 17:07:18
Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
Apply liberal amounts of 3204 on the pegs when you doin the lube and slide those babies in there real nice like.
Post by: Puddsy on Sun, 02 December 2018, 17:16:54
Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
Apply liberal amounts of 3204 on the pegs when you doin the lube and slide those babies in there real nice like.
oh wow i wouldn't even think to do that
makes a lot of sense
Post by: oh_chesteroni on Sun, 02 December 2018, 17:32:29
Can't be wasting 3204 for that. I'll whip out the KY ;) thanks for the tips guys!Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
Apply liberal amounts of 3204 on the pegs when you doin the lube and slide those babies in there real nice like.
oh wow i wouldn't even think to do that
makes a lot of sense
Post by: Wongstongs on Mon, 03 December 2018, 10:26:23
Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
I straight up just squished the pegs on the switches with a pair of pliers
Post by: wholypantalones on Mon, 03 December 2018, 11:22:43
Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
I straight up just squished the pegs on the switches with a pair of pliers
So you made them oblong and serrated? Did it work?
Post by: Wongstongs on Mon, 03 December 2018, 11:55:56
Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
I straight up just squished the pegs on the switches with a pair of pliers
So you made them oblong and serrated? Did it work?
Yeah it worked really well actually. I squished once, then turned it 90 degrees and squished again. This was for Tealios.
Post by: wholypantalones on Mon, 03 December 2018, 13:08:31
Finally getting around to building my v2 today. I've noticed that the holes on the pcb for pcb mount switches are rather tight. This is my first leeku pcb, did anyone else have a similar issue? I'm just gonna file the holes slightly to fix the issue - I assume this is the best method, yes?
I straight up just squished the pegs on the switches with a pair of pliers
So you made them oblong and serrated? Did it work?
Yeah it worked really well actually. I squished once, then turned it 90 degrees and squished again. This was for Tealios.
Those little tealio bastards have big pegs. Mine is still sitting waiting for me to get the rest of my switches springs swapped, switch filmed and lubed. Hopefully by January..
Post by: Puddsy on Mon, 03 December 2018, 13:12:56
Post by: Lansky on Tue, 04 December 2018, 02:04:48
Post by: HPE1000 on Wed, 19 December 2018, 13:30:11
(https://i.imgur.com/0Gy7QPy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/INaqF3Z.jpg)
Post by: LightningXI on Wed, 19 December 2018, 14:02:55
Finally got mine put together today. Awesome keyboard. Thanks again LZ!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0Gy7QPy.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/INaqF3Z.jpg)
So gorgeous. Looks amazing.
Post by: Lansky on Wed, 19 December 2018, 14:59:38
Finally got mine put together today. Awesome keyboard. Thanks again LZ!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0Gy7QPy.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/INaqF3Z.jpg)
Very nice!
Post by: dorf on Wed, 19 December 2018, 15:15:54
Finally got mine put together today. Awesome keyboard. Thanks again LZ!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0Gy7QPy.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/INaqF3Z.jpg)
Looking good!
Post by: CommonCurt on Thu, 20 December 2018, 20:06:15
Finally got mine put together today. Awesome keyboard. Thanks again LZ!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0Gy7QPy.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/INaqF3Z.jpg)
Wow :thumb:
Love that color.
Post by: Moistgun on Sun, 30 December 2018, 20:13:09
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 30 December 2018, 20:29:04
Has anyone been able to reflash the bootloader that would be willing to help me out with a how to? I'm not having any luck and this keyboard is no good as a brick :-\
There's two posts linked at the bottom of this thread I put together I used to reflash the bootloader on a bricked PCB.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583
Post by: Wongstongs on Mon, 31 December 2018, 18:55:21
Typing test with tealios if anyone is interested. Space bar seems a bit loud, but other than that it sounds amazing.
Post by: Moistgun on Thu, 03 January 2019, 18:29:50
Has anyone been able to reflash the bootloader that would be willing to help me out with a how to? I'm not having any luck and this keyboard is no good as a brick :-\
There's two posts linked at the bottom of this thread I put together I used to reflash the bootloader on a bricked PCB.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583
thanks,
There's been a few people stating they did it with a teensy and this instruction guide
https://docs.qmk.fm/#/isp_flashing_guide
Since I had a Teensy laying around I figured I would give it a go, but kept getting invalid device signature errors, which I don't know what that means :))
I guess I will order a isp flasher from ebay and learn Korean in the mean time.
(guy I talked to about it who fixed his own and someone elses said that 4 people PMd him in the past month about bricked L3s)
Post by: japanesehorrorwriter on Sun, 06 January 2019, 20:46:26
Post by: pandemic123 on Mon, 21 January 2019, 03:46:06
Post by: LifeZ on Mon, 21 January 2019, 04:59:54
there is a pretty big design flaw for people who got the version with the diffuser, the brass bottom is not polished along the sides, normally the bottom is flush with the housing but in the case of the diffuser version, the sides of the brass bottom are exposed. on mine they look terrible, a pretty big oversight for such a pricey board with a reputable name behind it (LZ).
Yes, it is added in the middle of the project, Please look pretty. :cool:
Post by: wholypantalones on Mon, 21 January 2019, 05:16:10
Has anyone been able to reflash the bootloader that would be willing to help me out with a how to? I'm not having any luck and this keyboard is no good as a brick :-\
There's two posts linked at the bottom of this thread I put together I used to reflash the bootloader on a bricked PCB.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.msg2666583#msg2666583
thanks,
There's been a few people stating they did it with a teensy and this instruction guide
https://docs.qmk.fm/#/isp_flashing_guide
Since I had a Teensy laying around I figured I would give it a go, but kept getting invalid device signature errors, which I don't know what that means :))
I guess I will order a isp flasher from ebay and learn Korean in the mean time.
(guy I talked to about it who fixed his own and someone elses said that 4 people PMd him in the past month about bricked L3s)
Instead of learning Korean, Google translates the page for you..
Post by: pandemic123 on Fri, 25 January 2019, 01:19:26
for this price point and the famous name of Lz I am a bit shocked. overall the board has a lot of nice things I've gotta say but the bottom brass piece really kills the look. when you look it at from the side all you see is unpolished brass.
Post by: bujorc on Fri, 01 February 2019, 07:22:11
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 18 March 2019, 15:24:22
Post by: LightningXI on Mon, 18 March 2019, 15:24:58
If anyone bought a ton of plates and wants to part with one HMU :)Iirc tootall had a carbon fiber plate for sale. Forgot if half or full plate.
Post by: MajorKoos on Mon, 18 March 2019, 17:23:41
If anyone bought a ton of plates and wants to part with one HMU :)
Have you asked LZ if he has some spares?
(The CLS, MP and GHv2 use the same switch plate)
Post by: HPE1000 on Mon, 18 March 2019, 17:25:50
Oh I didn't know the MP uses the same plate, I might ask about it if that's the case. Thanks!If anyone bought a ton of plates and wants to part with one HMU :)
Have you asked LZ if he has some spares?
(The CLS, MP and GHv2 use the same switch plate)
Post by: ranonranonarat on Sat, 06 July 2019, 11:16:09
Post by: dorf on Sun, 07 July 2019, 12:35:54
Well, I hope someone finds this useful but I was working on the Leeku PCB today and then had some problems with it. The 3 LEDs would light up but none of the keys would register. Running Jigon and trying to connect the to it would cause Jigon to crash. Not sure why it worked but I went to Keyboard > Update > All and it seemed to solve the problem. I'm able to map keys through the Jigon GUI now. So putting this out here just in case someone runs into the same problem and might want to give this a try.
I've tried to put together a collection of experiences over at KT, https://www.keebtalk.com/t/leeku-pcbs/3683.
Post by: wholypantalones on Sun, 07 July 2019, 15:42:52
Well, I hope someone finds this useful but I was working on the Leeku PCB today and then had some problems with it. The 3 LEDs would light up but none of the keys would register. Running Jigon and trying to connect the to it would cause Jigon to crash. Not sure why it worked but I went to Keyboard > Update > All and it seemed to solve the problem. I'm able to map keys through the Jigon GUI now. So putting this out here just in case someone runs into the same problem and might want to give this a try.
I've tried to put together a collection of experiences over at KT, https://www.keebtalk.com/t/leeku-pcbs/3683.
Same same. Even linked to your keebplace post.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97623.0