Last fall I picked up a QFR brand new for $40CAD, with the idea of it being the perfect guinea pig for my first big keyboard project. After some thinking, I'm going to go for a bit of a minimalist retro look, with a creamy white case and cream/beige blank caps. Of course, I also need a programmable board and switch-top removal.
This will be my first build log, and my first big modding project.
Goals for this project:
- swap the stock controller for a FrostyFlake controller
- install a steel uTKL plate to allow for switch-top removal, and a superior feel compared to the stock plate
- change the board from Costar to Cherry stabs
- lube, sticker, spring swap, and maybe stem swap switches
- change LEDs
- paint the top case a vintage looking cream white
- use Gateron blank PBT Cherry profile caps in beige/cream.
- beige or chocolate brown custom USB cable
I swapped the stock controller for one of Bpiphany's awesome replacement controllers soon after I picked the board up, so that's done already. If you have a board that he has made a controller for, I highly recommend picking one up, they're sweet!
First off, I needed to de-solder all of the MX reds from the board, and swap the stock plate for the steel uTKL plate.
Tools used:
- Hakko FX888D, set to 750F
- Edsyn Soldapullt
- MG Chemicals 63/37 0.032" solder pocket pack
- cheap 60/40 solder for tinning
- Edsyn tweezers
- Hakko flush cutters
- precision flathead screwdriver
The start of de-soldering, and a picture of the tools used. At this point, I noticed how much longer it takes to melt what seems to be lead-free solder. About 2 seconds compared to 63/37 which seems to melt almost instantly.
After about three hours, de-soldering was completed. Really proud that I didn't scorch the board at all! Everything turned out really well. De-soldering was probably the biggest challenge for me in this project, but I seem to be improving.
A shot of the pads after I had finished de-soldering. I did manage to to scrape some of the trace mask off of the PCB in one spot, but everything else looks okay.
Completely back together again, with the new plate installed! One thing I found tricky was keeping the switches completely flat against the plate when I turned the board over to solder it. I had to de-solder a couple because they would unclip from the plate when the plate would flex a bit and end up being raised on one edge. The Cherry stabs were also pretty finicky, but they feel great now that they're in there correctly. Clipped Cherry stabs feel much better to me than Costar.
For the LEDs, I removed the stock red LEDs and replaced them with 2x3x4mm RGB LEDs I received as a freebie from Sprit. I honestly could not find LED resistors anywhere on the PCB (if anyone knows where they are, I wouldn't mind knowing), so I gave up and just put the LEDs in at the same resistance as the stock ones. They seem to be fine though, not overly bright or warm so I think they should be fine as is.
Typing on the board as I write this post, and it feels great. It has a lot more weight and solidity to it, and the sound is less hollow. No pinging either. Feels pretty similar to a Phantom. I'm still undecided what direction I'm going to go with the switches, but I think it'll end up with lubed and stickered 62g ergo clears, as the rest of boards are linear MX or buckling spring.
The next step in this project is painting the top case in Rustoleum Heirloom White, with Rustoleum primer and clear-coat. I'm hoping I can get a really nice finish, but I've never used spray paint before so we will see how that turns out.
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More to come in the future, after I finish studying Photoelectrics awesome keyboard painting guide!
