Razer Blackwidow double tapping problem

[Tokiloki]

Dear Geekhackers,

so this problem occured a pretty while ago with my Razer Blackwidow .

At one day while I was playing Sc2 my Blackwidow stopped registering the "4" key , well it registeres it but sometimes I cannot double tap with it which is pretty important in sc2 because of groupselections.

So is there any possibility of replacing that switch with another unimportant switch from the keyboard e.g. the Num lock or something else where you don't have to double tap

Or any other possibility of fixing this?

Thank you in advance.

[omgFiRE]

So is there any possibility of replacing that switch with another

Yes.

[Tokiloki]

If so , is there any guide of how doing it?

[omgFiRE]

If so , is there any guide of how doing it?

Start from here:
http://mightyohm.com/blog/2011/04/soldering-is-easy-comic-book/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mondalaci/sets/72157626562246038/

[Leslieann]

Since you need to doubletap, unless you care just slamming the key, I would highly recommend any switch other than blue, it's the worst switch Cherry makes for that. Something with a tactile feel, and is a one piece design so you can feel where the actuation/release point is can increase your double tap speed. Browns would be better and easy to find, but your best option would be clears, ergo clear or even mod your blues into Jailhouse Blues. This is exactly what pushed me off of blues.

[Hyde]

^ What she said.  Basically in short blue is the worst switch for double tapping, I'd recommend brown or red.

Otherwise I'd say test to see if it's only that key that has the issue, if yes then replace the switch.  If all the keys are like that then it's just mx blue.

[TheGlow]

This happened to me a back in June.
The 6 key double tapped for a few days and stopped.
but then my H key was double, triple hitting. Come last week it would sometimes not even register hits, so I opted to swap it with Scroll Lock.
All in all, fairly easy. I have some solder experience, but not enough that I have a desolder bulb/vacuum which added time to the process. Desolder wick wasn't working that well for me for this.
Also I normally use a 15watt iron for xbox360 work, but seemed to weak for this. A 40 watt worked a little better.
You can find a vid on youtube to disassemble and get to the board.
From there you heat up both the LED (if you have ultimate) and pull the LED out, then heat both the switch points and push the switch out.
Rinse and repeat. Since I couldnt remove all the solder it was a little harder when replacing one as I had to apply pressure and toggle the iron between the legs to shimmy it in.
Oddly it no longer seems to double/triple/drop presses while its in the scroll lock spot now.