What Keyboard Are You Using Now?

[fohat.digs]

buckling springs as discrete switches

When and if you ever take one apart, you will see that it is not any one thing and that the "switches" (mechanisms, perhaps, but not "switches") simply could not be discreet.

Indeed, it is the entirety of the thing that makes it what it is. An IBM Model F has 3 steel plates plus a circuit board that are all constantly held in various states of tension and compression and that is what makes it feel and sound "alive".

[rowdy]

buckling springs as discrete switches

When and if you ever take one apart, you will see that it is not any one thing and that the "switches" (mechanisms, perhaps, but not "switches") simply could not be discreet.

Indeed, it is the entirety of the thing that makes it what it is. An IBM Model F has 3 steel plates plus a circuit board that are all constantly held in various states of tension and compression and that is what makes it feel and sound "alive".

Not capacitive, but ...

[fohat.digs]

Fair enough, I have one of those too.

It would be possible to cobble something together into a keyboard by mounting a bunch of these on *something*, but it would be devoid of the essence of what makes ancient IBM iron so great.

And I am not talking about some kind of warm fuzzy nostalgia, I mean the actual feel (and, a characteristic even more important to some users, sound).

You have taken an M/F apart, would it be even remotely "the same"?
 
edit - and to be picky and technical, that thing is a mechanism and there is no switch in it at all

[rowdy]

Fair enough, I have one of those too.

It would be possible to cobble something together into a keyboard by mounting a bunch of these on *something*, but it would be devoid of the essence of what makes ancient IBM iron so great.

And I am not talking about some kind of warm fuzzy nostalgia, I mean the actual feel (and, a characteristic even more important to some users, sound).

You have taken an M/F apart, would it be even remotely "the same"?
 
edit - and to be picky and technical, that thing is a mechanism and there is no switch in it at all

A SPMT (single pole momentary throw) switch?  This one is from a M, so pressing it compresses the spring, flips the paddle, and would normally make an electrical contact.  Right?  I've never really thought about it, and also don't know if the paddle is included in these key chains.

But yes, it would lack the essence of a keyboard - like putting a row of MX switches on a desk and pressing them in sequence pretending it is a keyboard.

[fohat.digs]

This one is from a M, so pressing it compresses the spring, flips the paddle, and would normally make an electrical contact.  Right?

I am pretty sure that barrel came from a Model F, that was how Orihalcon made them.

In the case of the Model M, the pivot plate (aka paddle aka flipper) presses a mylar sheet sandwich and causes the top trace to physically contact the bottom trace through the hole in the center sheet. With the keyboard apart and/or with the barrels removed, you can press the top layer with your finger to make the contacts touch. Theoretically, you could type on the membranes themselves with the keys, caps, springs, and barrel plate all removed.

In the case of the Model F, the pivot plate is much larger and is made from a material with very specific electrical characteristics. As that piece pivots downward, it gently comes to rest above 2 capacitive sensors embedded in the PCB and bridges them, changing the capacitance. This change is detected and registers the stroke. There is no movement and thus no physical wear taking place in the sensing system, only in the mechanism above it.

[rowdy]

This one is from a M, so pressing it compresses the spring, flips the paddle, and would normally make an electrical contact.  Right?

I am pretty sure that barrel came from a Model F, that was how Orihalcon made them.

In the case of the Model M, the pivot plate (aka paddle aka flipper) presses a mylar sheet sandwich and causes the top trace to physically contact the bottom trace through the hole in the center sheet. With the keyboard apart and/or with the barrels removed, you can press the top layer with your finger to make the contacts touch. Theoretically, you could type on the membranes themselves with the keys, caps, springs, and barrel plate all removed.

In the case of the Model F, the pivot plate is much larger and is made from a material with very specific electrical characteristics. As that piece pivots downward, it gently comes to rest above 2 capacitive sensors embedded in the PCB and bridges them, changing the capacitance. This change is detected and registers the stroke. There is no movement and thus no physical wear taking place in the sensing system, only in the mechanism above it.

I cannot recall where or when I acquired this particular item, but it seems that you are correct.

I have disassembled one Model M (and bolt modded it, and nearly finished putting it back together), and you'd have to cut the plate to extract one barrel to make such a keyring.  This assembly does not look like it was cut, so more than likely it is from a Model F, yes.

My apologies

[livewirerc]

One of my three Rama keyboards in HHKB layout if I'm at home, or my HHKB BT if I'm on the move. I just built two of these within the past couple weeks so they're getting a lot of love, but the HHKB BT is my constant companion, and if I'm out of the house more often than not it's in my bag.

[_rubik]

One of my three Rama keyboards in HHKB layout if I'm at home, or my HHKB BT if I'm on the move. I just built two of these within the past couple weeks so they're getting a lot of love, but the HHKB BT is my constant companion, and if I'm out of the house more often than not it's in my bag.

I'm getting the sense that you like HHKB layouts and Rama  )

[Katlicious]

One of my three Rama keyboards in HHKB layout if I'm at home, or my HHKB BT if I'm on the move. I just built two of these within the past couple weeks so they're getting a lot of love, but the HHKB BT is my constant companion, and if I'm out of the house more often than not it's in my bag.

Love HHKB !

[rowdy]

One of my three Rama keyboards in HHKB layout if I'm at home, or my HHKB BT if I'm on the move. I just built two of these within the past couple weeks so they're getting a lot of love, but the HHKB BT is my constant companion, and if I'm out of the house more often than not it's in my bag.

Love HHKB !

 

[Leopard223]

Using a BM60 to try the new Akko Lavender purple switches, gotta say the kit is great, and the switches are just fantastic, spring weight is on the weaker side but the tactile bump is very noticable, and very clacky for those who like it.

[Madrobby]

Modern Dasher D60

[_rubik]

New keyboard day for me

• ai03 Meridian
• Alpacas, 205g0, TX 60g ss
• FR4 half plate
• R1 GMK Laser

[rowdy]

Modern Dasher D60 (Attachment Link)

That's a nice keyboard!

[hobby_grade]

First post, so hello! Here is a 40% build that I just finished, and the little bit of feedback that I have gotten has been negative of my aesthetic choices. What do you think?

[_rubik]

First post, so hello! Here is a 40% build that I just finished, and the little bit of feedback that I have gotten has been negative of my aesthetic choices. What do you think?

(Attachment Link)

Do what makes you happy. It doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. I'm always a fan of the Laser colorway fwiw

[Nerif]

Razer Deathstalker (chicklet rubber dome), but I am thinking about selling it and maybe buying an Apex 100 or Bloody b720 keyboard

Also I am using Logitech g710+ with cherry browns from time to time

[Hans_Luber]

I am about 7 years behind but I recently fell in love with the FC600C. I have been messing around with building keyboards for the past 5 or so years - nothing substantial. Have used a decent amount of switches. This little board just does it for me. 45g silent. I like the feel and I like the sound. Was it overpriced? Maybe. I don't really care. I have paid a lot more for a lot less.

[clankgy1]

When it became apparent that Rukia wasnt going to ship anytime soon (if ever), I went out and bought an AV3.  Details:

• Layout: Arisu (Alice w/arrows)
• Case Material: Acrylic
• Plate: POM
• Switches: H1 (filmed, lubed with 205g0)
• Stabs: Zeal (lubed with 205g0)
• Keycaps: GMK WoB
• Cable: Pexon double-sleeve

Board is basically done, other than I will be looking for blank spacebars to replace the OG fix.  Feel and sound are excellent, IV Works has an active community with an engaged creator.  Very happy with it.

Potato Pic:

[cryonic]

My DD. (Daily Driver)





KBDfans Bamboo Keeb
Custom Leather cover for transportation as well as a keyboard carpet
Carbon Fibre Plate (for lightness)
YD60MQ (QMK)
JWK v2 stabs (3u wire from KBDfans)
Alpacas lubed with film and 67g spring
DCS WYSE terminal Keycaps, retrobrited.
3U, 1.25U, ENTER: Cherry PBT.

layout using
HHKB (CTRL Capslockswap, 1.75 Backspace)
Minila (67keys, 3FNs)
(FN1 SpaceFN1 FN2)
Numpad on 2nd layer.

I thanked the community for encouraging self built. Learn too much, broke now. Thank you.

[9gel]

Zebrawood GH60 casing and wrist rest. Makerdiary m60 - so I can use HJKL as arrow keys. Kailh silent box browns. SA ASCII code caps.

[timw4mail]

Just received my Model 77 New Model F keyboard. It's the larger case style, ANSI layout, with PrintScreen/Insert/Delete/Etc. block and cursor keys in the numpad area. Now I'm just waiting on some more keycaps.

I've waited 5 years for this board, what's a few more for the front-printed keycaps?

[cest73]

Currently i sit regularly at three computers...

This is a EDC:
My choc based "orthDIY" i am exploring for the many options of QMK before i settle with a layout i will dye sub on the MBK caps


The other TKM-2021 that is undergoing dye subbing of the XDA keycaps on Matias silent click switches (ALPS stem) - daily driver on PC #3

[ollir_]

Have been using a Datacomp DFK-102 with blue Alps which I got few days ago.

The board and switches are in excellent shape - no friction, no binding, everything is nice and smooth.
I think the board hasn't seen too much use in its lifetime, it's not even yellowed anywhere. The left Ctrl key that IS yellowed, is from another board, because the original keycap was broken inside the slider. Prying the plastic out from the slider was easy, but the original keycap isn't usable anymore obviously.

Some keycaps had external legends drawn with a marker or something like that, and few had extra engraved legends, so I put on these Tai Hao Dolch caps on for the time being. I think they look decent on the board. If you view the image larger, you can actually see left of backspace an engraved Z-like symbol on it (the key is just \ |).

Anyway, it's a nice board. I already had Acer 6012 with transplanted blue Alps, but those switches are not in ideal condition; the difference is huge and pretty nicely demonstrated what a difference it makes having Alps switches in good condition.

[iaji]

top: my SO's keyboard. currently is not actively used because they're taking a semester off from the school. the keyboard uses gateron yellow and some random SA keycaps.
bottom: one of mine. this one uses gateron black and some SA from grab bag. is it usable? yes, i don't think i want to use other keyboards which have different layout.

[rowdy]

Have been using a Datacomp DFK-102 with blue Alps which I got few days ago.

The board and switches are in excellent shape - no friction, no binding, everything is nice and smooth.
I think the board hasn't seen too much use in its lifetime, it's not even yellowed anywhere. The left Ctrl key that IS yellowed, is from another board, because the original keycap was broken inside the slider. Prying the plastic out from the slider was easy, but the original keycap isn't usable anymore obviously.

Some keycaps had external legends drawn with a marker or something like that, and few had extra engraved legends, so I put on these Tai Hao Dolch caps on for the time being. I think they look decent on the board. If you view the image larger, you can actually see left of backspace an engraved Z-like symbol on it (the key is just \ |).

Anyway, it's a nice board. I already had Acer 6012 with transplanted blue Alps, but those switches are not in ideal condition; the difference is huge and pretty nicely demonstrated what a difference it makes having Alps switches in good condition.

Show Image

That is a nice looking keyboard :)

The Dolch contrasts very nicely with the beige case.

[cest73]

As of some time now I'm using two of my TKM 2021 siblings (one ANSI the other ISO) and on either place I'm test driving my newest planckDIY (the Ortholinear Chocolate Delight) im posting a picture of:


One of it's many addon features is the degrees glyph key

[6s9_Tw]

excited to share a bit of my joy here with this big keeb community.
awesome!
From where I'm from, it's a lonely hobby being a keyboard enthusiast. not many places to go to to share that excitement.
you know,  when you type on a real good keyboard, it's like ... music, percussion music, with rhythms and melodies. you dance through the your fingertips. those steps, skips, glides, and all, it's beyond just typing words. and yeah, if you want, it's really getting sick if one can really talk about crap like this when it is actually typing on the plastic board. ....

Here's my daily driver.

[Meletrix2021]

Aurora

[dafranko]

GMMK, lubed Glorious Pandas with 55g slow springs in the alphanumerics and the stock 67g springs in control keys and space.
Keys I'm more likely to hit by accident than on purpose are Gateron Greens so I can hear my mistake 

[ideus]

This layout fits my needs just quite well; imagine that it allows easy typing in English, Spanish, Italian, French, and German, pretty much painlessly. Most of the time, I write in Latex, some computational statistics in R and Python, plus the usual office stuff.

[GannyL]

I've Blackwidow & Logitech G915 TKL​. Using Blackwidow for my regular use.

[timw4mail]

This layout fits my needs just quite well; imagine that it allows easy typing in English, Spanish, Italian, French, and German, pretty much painlessly. Most of the time, I write in Latex, some computational statistics in R and Python, plus the usual office stuff.

Show Image

Why is your meta key upside down? For ease of location?

[boyjun]

7V With Lubed Lilac Linears + Full Aluminum Plate + GMK Taro

[ideus]

This layout fits my needs just quite well; imagine that it allows easy typing in English, Spanish, Italian, French, and German, pretty much painlessly. Most of the time, I write in Latex, some computational statistics in R and Python, plus the usual office stuff.

Show Image

Why is your meta key upside down? For ease of location?

Good catch! The meta is the FN-thumb-activated key, and having it upside down makes activating it more comfortable; the four keys above it works as arrows that are one-hand operated.

[Maledicted]

I'm finally giving the venerable Model M a chance. I spent 3 or 4 days straight using a 1989 manufacture M and for the last 3 or 4 I have been using a new Unicomp Mini M. This is the first Unicomp board I have ever had my hands on in person.

The original was too inconsistent in feel, the inconsistency in sound was entertaining. The Mini M, being brand new with no broken rivets (or 30 years worth of abuse), is much more predictable with each keystroke. Both are more muted than I would like in terms of sound, although I have heard multiple outside observers mention in the past that they prefer the sound of the M to the F when I have demonstrated them side by side. The Mini M seems to be lacking the characteristic twang of other buckling spring boards. It seems to me that the springs buckle lower in the Unicomp than on an original M, which buckle a touch higher than an F (probably more of a difference in cap design). The Unicomp and most Fs buckle virtually at the bottom of travel, which I have always loved. The Unicomp is scratchier than the OG M, neither of which compare to an F, but I do imagine the Unicomp needs some heavy wear to be a fair comparison. Both seem to have more of a tendency to want to bind than an F. I like a firm bottom out, and the M lacks that.

Both are stiffer than I would like for a buckling spring board ... though I seem to love typing on box navies. I still feel like I may not be using enough force to reliably actuate the switches even with the time spent trying to acclimatize, and I do make way more mistakes with an M than I normally would with other switch types. I may even be able to confidently say that I have had less difficulty acclimatizing to MX reds from stiff clickies than from other stiff clickies to membrane buckling spring. I think it is a general imbalance between the stiff spring weighting, the relatively light amount of tactility and the relatively low tactile event in the overall travel.



I took a file to the right Alt key. Works for me. Quality control seems good. The molds are obviously not perfect, but I don't care. The only glaring imperfections are on the bottom of the case, where you'll never see it. The plate isn't nearly as thick as an early M, or even a lot of cheap MX plates. That also seems just about irrelevant, especially since you're going to destroy the plastic rivets before you manage to damage the plate anyway. A little more flexibility there may even help prevent the rivets from breaking in the first place. The case isn't as thick or solid as an old IBM board, but it isn't unreasonably thin or creaky either (though I'm not picky) for the price. Seems like a good board for the membrane buckling spring crowd.

Does anyone recognize this?

Show Image

If someone knows what a Model F is, they'll probably at least assume it is something pretty uncommon/odd. Probably the best you could do for a stealth mode F though. Nice.

Have been using a Datacomp DFK-102 with blue Alps which I got few days ago.

That looks great. I have tried to snag a few of those. They always eluded me. I wish SKCM blue in good shape weren't like winning the lottery.

My DD. (Daily Driver)

Show Image

Show Image

Also great, that leather cover is an awesome touch. The Wyse caps fit right in.

Show Image

Zebrawood GH60 casing and wrist rest. Makerdiary m60 - so I can use HJKL as arrow keys. Kailh silent box browns. SA ASCII code caps.

Keyboards always look right at home in wood cases for some reason.

Modern Dasher D60

That's absolutely beautiful.

First post, so hello! Here is a 40% build that I just finished, and the little bit of feedback that I have gotten has been negative of my aesthetic choices. What do you think?

You made it your own, and it looks good to me. It doesn't matter how it looks to anyone else if you like it.

This is a EDC:
My choc based "orthDIY" i am exploring for the many options of QMK before i settle with a layout i will dye sub on the MBK caps

The other TKM-2021 that is undergoing dye subbing of the XDA keycaps on Matias silent click switches (ALPS stem) - daily driver on PC #3

Looking good. I wish there were more experimentation and options for both Choc and Matias switches.

When it became apparent that Rukia wasnt going to ship anytime soon (if ever), I went out and bought an AV3. 
Board is basically done, other than I will be looking for blank spacebars to replace the OG fix.  Feel and sound are excellent, IV Works has an active community with an engaged creator.  Very happy with it.

Potato Pic:

Show Image

Looks great. One of the few ergonomic designs I might not mind trying, and those contrasting colors are very sharp.

[kryshac]

[hobby_grade]

I'm back with some more stuff! I recently finished these two hand wired builds, and I am using the split board the most. 30% is hard to adapt to 

[Rob27shred]

Finished licking my wounds from the Rukia Rd.2 debacle & realized I still needed an Alice style board. Went with a E-white Meridian! POM plate, Durock V1 stabs (lubed with 205g0), Gateron milky top yellows stem swapped to Invyr PE stems (v1, b3)(lubed with 205g0) & spring swapped to 50g TX standard length springs (lubed with 105), then topped of with GMK Lux.

[Maledicted]

No idea if I could ever get into any of that ergo stuff, but all of those boards posted recently look awesome. 

[PixelPlays__]

Currently using a custom 60% built with Alps SKCM Oranges, and I love this board to death!

[grayboards]

 ʳᵃᶻᵉʳ ʷᶦᵗʰ ᵍʳᵉᵉⁿ ˢʷᶦᵗᶜʰᵉˢ

because my krytox hasnt come yet 
been waiting like 2 years to build my board because i live in south africa, and shipping is really annoying 

[Maledicted]

Currently using a custom 60% built with Alps SKCM Oranges, and I love this board to death!

Looks great.  That's one of the few popular Alps switches I think I have never even tried.

ʳᵃᶻᵉʳ ʷᶦᵗʰ ᵍʳᵉᵉⁿ ˢʷᶦᵗᶜʰᵉˢ

because my krytox hasnt come yet 
been waiting like 2 years to build my board because i live in south africa, and shipping is really annoying 

I used MX red and MX blue happily for years and years before I ever knew any better. What's wrong with waiting a little longer? Those Razer switches are made by Greetech or Kailh, and if I remember right, they both make some pretty bad clickies ... unfortunately. Even worse than Cherry.

[nyihtway81]

I've been using this for two years. Bought in Sept 2019. Still stock Gateron Red keys, lubed with PTFE, SuperMario themed XDA profile keycaps, Foam mod, and tape mod. The tape mod really makes a difference with the typing sound.

Just ordered a TM680 kit and Gateron Milky Yellow switches. That'd be a new project for next week. I'll come back later with the finished build.   

[treeleaf64]

Alps make me hungry for more, I must see how to get those again  I miss them

[fohat.digs]

Alps SKCM Oranges

That's one of the few popular Alps switches I think I have never even tried.

You should. They are my 2nd favorite behind blue.

[Maledicted]

Alps SKCM Oranges

That's one of the few popular Alps switches I think I have never even tried.

You should. They are my 2nd favorite behind blue.

You like them more than browns? I have some of those in an IBM medical terminal board, but I think they must need some cleaning (at a minimum).

I have had plenty of opportunities to pick up old Apple boards for cheap that had a good chance of containing oranges, but the layouts are usually terrible and I don't want to destroy a vintage board to harvest the switches.

Coincidentally, I just happened to switch over from that old Rosewill MX brown board I was test driving for a week to the Matias "quiet clicks" I have in the modified V80 I have posted here previously. Night and day. Even Matias tactiles are so much better in my opinion.

[Joxe]

I bought my first customizable mechanical keyboard from Drop. Its my DD at the moment and love every bit of it. It's actually what got me into the beginning phases of the hobby.

Black Drop Ctrl Keyboard
Halo True Switches (About to be lubed TF up)
White Skylit Keycaps that were sold on the side.

Bought all the switch modding tools I need. Next up buying the sodder and onto BUILDING!

[JP911]

Been using a FC660C for a good year now with stock domes, but recently swapped in 55g ones last week with a help of a friend - wow what a difference. Feels more "switch" like with a more pronounced on/off point. I think the stock typing experience is more smooth, but I like how tactile it feels now. I want to eventually try these domes with the silenced ring version.

[djuna_jr]

I'm using this bog standard DZ60 board in a pear flower wood case the most at the moment, with gateron silent yellows and a really nice feeling Apple II-style keycap set for extra nostalgia.