Orion V2 Kustom TKL Group Buy

[ctrlX]

Speaking of ruining PCBs... I believe I messed up also. I had to desolder a switch and it was a real m****r f****r to get out. After soldering a new switch in, it does not register key presses. LED on that switch works though. Could I have damaged something due to over heating during the desolder process? Is it the resistor or diode maybe? I am by no means any electronics expert and this is my first custom board. So I apologize for not knowing what is what on the PCB. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Do you have the ability to take a macro shot of the soldering done for the switch in question?

Here are two close-up shots of the switch. Taken with a Nikon 24-70 mm f/2.8 FX lens. All the residue makes it look awful... I have not done any cleaning yet. Shots are taken after I de-soldered the switch and soldered another switch in place. Right after that I ran the board through a switch tester and noticed it did not respond to key strokes. Then I wicked away some solder and re-applied some new solder in hope of solving the problem. Please note that the LED for that switch is not soldered, but I know it works after closing the circuit.



Soldering on the right is really bad. I really should redo that one (if not both).



Same switch but photographed from the other side.

So what do you guys reckon? Does the pictures show any obvious problems or am I looking at not having a functioning F9 key on my Orion V2? Any help and/or suggestions are of course greatly appreciated.

[Steezus]

You'll need to grab a multimeter and check your traces. You'll want to have the multimeter set on the continuity setting(sideways looking Wifi symbol), it should beep when you touch the two prongs together. You'll want to check right pin to diode and left pin to a neighboring switch's left pin. The neighboring switch needs to be along the the same traces, I can't tell from that picture but it may be on the left and right or up and down. You can even check other switches to see how the traces find out what where to get a beep from the continuity check.

[R1N3]

Had a blast building one of these with R1N3 today. Can't wait for his pics

Keyboard in question:

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Linears with an acrylic plate, now that's interesting. How are you liking it? Nice build though.

Tbh, from someone who slams 1,2,3,4,5,Q,W,E,R,T,A,S,D,F,G,Z,X,C,V and SPACE at least 8 hours a day, it's the dream

[appleonama]

You'll need to grab a multimeter and check your traces. You'll want to have the multimeter set on the continuity setting(sideways looking Wifi symbol), it should beep when you touch the two prongs together. You'll want to check right pin to diode and left pin to a neighboring switch's left pin. The neighboring switch needs to be along the the same traces, I can't tell from that picture but it may be on the left and right or up and down. You can even check other switches to see how the traces find out what where to get a beep from the continuity check.

adding to this. I'm assuming you are using zealios switches so maybe you have installed a bad switch. I heard they have chattering issues but I am not sure chattering stop switch registration. you should read about it more on the zealio group buy thread

[Steezus]

You'll need to grab a multimeter and check your traces. You'll want to have the multimeter set on the continuity setting(sideways looking Wifi symbol), it should beep when you touch the two prongs together. You'll want to check right pin to diode and left pin to a neighboring switch's left pin. The neighboring switch needs to be along the the same traces, I can't tell from that picture but it may be on the left and right or up and down. You can even check other switches to see how the traces find out what where to get a beep from the continuity check.

adding to this. I'm assuming you are using zealios switches so maybe you have installed a bad switch. I heard they have chattering issues but I am not sure chattering stop switch registration. you should read about it more on the zealio group buy thread

Chattering is basically early activation of the switch. Just by tapping the stem and not even compressing the spring will activate the switch if it chatters. The chattering issues were caused when one would apply heat for too long on a pin of the switch and melt the plastic housing which would slightly shift the leaf contact.

[ctrlX]

Just finished installing sip sockets and switches onto the PCB. Soldering still needs to be done. I also put keys in to get a feel of the board and my 67g Zealios. Really delightful. Zealios are wicked and the board is an awsome typing experience!  Although I still need to perform soldering I sat down to get used to the 02D software. Must admit I am rather confused. This is my first custom and I have not programmed any boards previously. May I ask the noob question what you guys use your layers for? Also, anyone interested in sharing configs? Would be awsome to have a Duck custom keyboard hex database on i.e. GitHub.

I really don't use the layer function. Admittedly I don't think I have a use for it but I kept function layer 4 from from default for the rgb control.

I use my function layer all the time, but that's on my 60%. As for my TKL, the only time I use it is for controlling the LEDs and accessing the numpad a la Realforce.

Switches are soldered and started playing around with the O2D KeyMapper. Had to backtrack a couple of posts and gathered enough information to grasp the concept of editing the layout using the software. So cheers for that!

So far I am only interested in controlling LEDs. Need to do some more testing tonight to make sure I am satisfied with my mapping. Pre-defined layouts are really good out of the box, so no need to alter the layout that much.

[ctrlX]

You'll need to grab a multimeter and check your traces. You'll want to have the multimeter set on the continuity setting(sideways looking Wifi symbol), it should beep when you touch the two prongs together. You'll want to check right pin to diode and left pin to a neighboring switch's left pin. The neighboring switch needs to be along the the same traces, I can't tell from that picture but it may be on the left and right or up and down. You can even check other switches to see how the traces find out what where to get a beep from the continuity check.

Went out yesterday and bought myself a multimeter. I must admit I didn't manage to find the source of the faulty switch. Actually it is not the switch that is the problem. I've tested with 3 different Zealio switches and the end result is the same. I must have screwed up something during the first de-soldering. Probably applied heat for too long. At first I thought I burned the diode connected to the switch. I tested it with my multimeter (set to diode-mode) and the multimeter displayed a current of roughly 0.5.

I then switched to continuity-mode and tried troubleshooting according to your instructions. The faulty switch is F9, so imagine having the keyboard infront of you facing you in the correct typing position. Then just flip the board so the back-side of the PCB is facing you. Here's the weird part...

I put one prong against the left switch pin and the other prong against the right side of the diode. While holding the prongs in this position I pressed the switch key and received a beep from the multimeter (see blue markings on image below). Doesn't that mean I've closed the circuit and the PCB should register a key press?



I must underline I am completely new to electronics and last time I held a multimeter in my hand was in high school when learning about the basic components, i.e. resistors, diodes etc.

EDIT:
I have spotted a potential cause of the problem. At closer inspection of the soldered right switch pin, a piece of the through hole pad on the PCB has fallen of or been ripped away. See the cyan marking in the image below. Could this be the explanation for having a non-working F9 key?

[appleonama]

http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=16411660020

opinion on these for the orion 

[omgar]

http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=16411660020

opinion on these for the orion 

Can't go wrong with some Classic Beige, IMO.

[appleonama]

http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=16411660020

opinion on these for the orion 

Can't go wrong with some Classic Beige, IMO.

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you're right I bought anyways :D

[appleonama]

man how I wish I got winkeyless version 

winkey has lost my interest

[E3E]

Winkey looks nice too! It seems that there was a 50/50 split between people who ordered winkey and winkeyless on the order forms too. They're both good!

[axtran]

Winkey looks nice too! It seems that there was a 50/50 split between people who ordered winkey and winkeyless on the order forms too. They're both good!

I dunno... 84-key is best...

[E3E]

Winkey looks nice too! It seems that there was a 50/50 split between people who ordered winkey and winkeyless on the order forms too. They're both good!

I dunno... 84-key is best...

Axy, don't you start raining on my 86 key parade! 

I do have duck blockers, but if I wanted to use them for Alps, I'd have to shave down the bottom that's supposed to go through the MX switch stem well cut-outs.

Winkey was actually less common for the Alps boards, but 50/50 split overall.

That said, if anyone with a black winkeyless layout is yearning for some winkeys, well... If you REALLY want a winkey top, I suppose I could trade mine.

[rainb1ood]

How does one acquire/purchase one of them duck blockers?

[appleonama]

How does one acquire/purchase one of them duck blockers?

this

[missalaire]

Still looking to buy a flat acrylic bottom if anyone's got one for sale.

[appleonama]

Someday I will finally finish my Orion V2 

first set up
-Fresh PCB from duck0013
-plastic plate from filphil
-65g krytox relubed zealios
-GMK hyperfuse
-420 Noct clack

[laguar]

Well, it took a lot longer than I hoped, but here it is.
In fitting with the celestial theme I am calling this build "red shift".  Reds with red o-rings (maybe ill drop these), to match the red top case and PCB.  Currently using Cherry98s from PBT4.

[appleonama]

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Well, it took a lot longer than I hoped, but here it is.
In fitting with the celestial theme I am calling this build "red shift".  Reds with red o-rings (maybe ill drop these), to match the red top case and PCB.  Currently using Cherry98s from PBT4.

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sweet man that looks great

you should've modded the switches with a heavier spring and clear tops 

[E3E]

sweet man that looks great

you should've modded the switches with a heavier spring and clear tops 

Clear tops dyed red, you mean! Well, stock Gateron tops would probably hold the color better.

EDIT: In all honesty though, I like the contrast of black and red on the plate and what not. I think it coordinates well. IMO, clear switch tops look best with clear and black switches.

[Geekmie]

I guess I should pop up now and then to ask for another round

[FrostyToast]

I guess I should pop up now and then to ask for another round

Orion V3 is already confirmed. Asking for a second round is a little unnecessary.

[Geekmie]

I guess I should pop up now and then to ask for another round

Orion V3 is already confirmed. Asking for a second round is a little unnecessary.

Ask for V3 then, LOL. Is there any link for V3 design?

[E3E]

It was just in a little teaser for the planned upcoming boards, but I wouldn't consider it set in stone as the Trinity Blackbird wasn't mentioned in the list, but here it is.

I don't think he has drawn up anything for the Orion v3 so soon though.

[Pemdas]

About to start work on my alps pcb and got a couple things I want to verify before starting.



For a 1.5x - 1x - 1.5x layout I would skip the diode that is not circled, correct?



Secondly I'm assuming the pads the arrows are pointing at are for the resistors for the notification LEDs. Which resistor am I supposed to use for them?
Also if I'm using switches with LEDs built in for the scroll/num/caps would I only bother with the top pads and forget the bottom pads?



And lastly do I have to worry about these at all?


I'm pretty sure I know the answers to most of these but I'm pretty nervous about working on it so I wanted to make sure.

Thanks in advance for any answers

[E3E]

About to start work on my alps pcb and got a couple things I want to verify before starting.

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For a 1.5x - 1x - 1.5x layout I would skip the diode that is not circled, correct?

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Secondly I'm assuming the pads the arrows are pointing at are for the resistors for the notification LEDs. Which resistor am I supposed to use for them?
Also if I'm using switches with LEDs built in for the scroll/num/caps would I only bother with the top pads and forget the bottom pads?

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And lastly do I have to worry about these at all?


I'm pretty sure I know the answers to most of these but I'm pretty nervous about working on it so I wanted to make sure.

Thanks in advance for any answers :thumb:

I don't believe you need to worry about the LED indicators near scroll lock and such as they are not compatible with the Orion v2. Only need to focus on the in-switch LEDs. :)

I might be mistaken, but I think you need to put diodes on all positions as they are part of the circuit. I would add the diodes there regardless.

As for the resistor value, Alienman82 recommended resistors of this value for the Orion v2 Alphas PCB, as that's what he heard from Leeku.

The bits in the last picture are nothing you need to worry about as far as I know. I'm pretty sure they are serial ports used for debugging and such. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming

[Pemdas]

I don't believe you need to worry about the LED indicators near scroll lock and such as they are not compatible with the Orion v2. Only need to focus on the in-switch LEDs.

I might be mistaken, but I think you need to put diodes on all positions as they are part of the circuit. I would add the diodes there regardless.

As for the resistor value, Alienman82 recommended resistors of this value for the Orion v2 Alphas PCB, as that's what he heard from Leeku.

The bits in the last picture are nothing you need to worry about as far as I know. I'm pretty sure they are serial ports used for debugging and such. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming

Awesome that clears everything up! Ordered the resistors, thanks so much for the info! 

Can't wait to get this all built up

[appleonama]

I need help guys! please!!

I am finally rebuilding my orion but I can't decide what switches to use on what plate.
I am building two orion pcbs this time no **** ups like before.

1 aluminum
1 plastic

I have 65g tactile zealios and 62g ergo MX grey with clear switch tops.

I was thinking zeal on plastic and mx grey on aluminum to keep an even grey color tone for aesthetics. opinions?

[E3E]

I need help guys! please!!

I am finally rebuilding my orion but I can't decide what switches to use on what plate.
I am building two orion pcbs this time no **** ups like before.

1 aluminum
1 plastic

I have 65g tactile zealios and 62g ergo MX grey with clear switch tops.

I was thinking zeal on plastic and mx grey on aluminum to keep an even grey color tone for aesthetics. opinions?

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I think you're heading down the right path. Sometimes contrast is better, but sometimes having a more uniform color palette is pleasant too. Sounds like it'll be a bit greyscale.

Nice to see the plate has come in, by the way.

How did you mess up the PCB last time, man?

[appleonama]

I need help guys! please!!

I am finally rebuilding my orion but I can't decide what switches to use on what plate.
I am building two orion pcbs this time no **** ups like before.

1 aluminum
1 plastic

I have 65g tactile zealios and 62g ergo MX grey with clear switch tops.

I was thinking zeal on plastic and mx grey on aluminum to keep an even grey color tone for aesthetics. opinions?

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I think you're heading down the right path. Sometimes contrast is better, but sometimes having a more uniform color palette is pleasant too. Sounds like it'll be a bit greyscale.

Nice to see the plate has come in, by the way.

How did you mess up the PCB last time, man?

I think I am going to go down this path. Purple on plastic and Grey on aluminum.
thanks so much man for the plate and pcb man <3 
The aluminum plate is beautiful and much better looking than steel IMO

I thought I ruined my first pcb while desoldering. However the pads on the pcb are extremely sensitive and I managed to lift 1/6 of a millimeter of the pad. That is an extremely tiny amount of pad which caused half of the boards leds to stop working. About 3 weeks ago I managed to fix the issue with help from truecustoms on kbdlab.
It has been a constant struggle not being able to use my orion v2  but today is the day.

[E3E]

I think I am going to go down this path. Purple on plastic and Grey on aluminum.
thanks so much man for the plate and pcb man <3 
The aluminum plate is beautiful and much better looking than steel IMO

I thought I ruined my first pcb by desoldering. However the pads on the pcb are extremely sensitive and I managed to lift 1/6 of a millimeter of the pad. That is an extremely tiny amount of pad which caused half of the boards leds to stop working. About 3 weeks ago I managed to fix the issue with help from truecustoms on kbdlab.
It's just a constant struggle not being able to use my orion v2  but today is the day.

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Yeah, I agree with you! I wish Alps plates came in more than just steel, myself. The sandblasted anodized surface of aluminum is just really pretty. I love the look.

Yeah, Duck PCBs have TERRIBLE pads, man. I went through absolute hell with my Octagon when I desoldered it, though I must admit, it was my first time ever working with a board like that, so I made tons of mistakes, but somehow, I managed to repair the board to work 100% again. Troubleshooting sometimes helps, but sometimes you get caught at a seeming dead end where you can't trace the problem or a particular component is fried and there's no way you'd be able to figure it out unless you had more in-depth electrical knowledge.

I'm just a hobbyist that gets lucky, haha.

Good luck with the aluminum build. That's the one I'm looking forward to more. The plastic plate is just kinda meh. I've built two Orions with plastic plates, and while I find them a bit novel, I would prefer something more sturdy.

I have to say, I have handled carbon fiber for my Alps Eagle builds, but that aluminum plate for the Orion v2 was also surprisingly light too. :D

[filphil]

Yeah I noticed that I found it easier to desolder duck's pcbs with a manual soldering pump.  When I used my hakko desoldering iron on a lightsaver pcb it tore it a new one and that was with lowish heat setting and extra rosin for some help. 

Not saying you can't get through a pcb without messing up a trace.  I found I had to relube my GH soldering pump because it was too heavily lubed in the first place.  Too much lube caused some sticktion after some desoldering.  After cleaning and light lubing of the soldering pump I got through without a hitch. 

[lootbag]

Man, you guys are giving me a scare and making me a little paranoid.
Planning to give my Duck Viper a big overhaul and using my Aoyue desoldering gun on all the switches and LEDs.
I did test the desoldering unit on a couple LEDs on the Duck PCB with no problems.
It would take me forever if I used the old wick or a manual pump.

[appleonama]

Yeah I noticed that I found it easier to desolder duck's pcbs with a manual soldering pump.  When I used my hakko desoldering iron on a lightsaver pcb it tore it a new one and that was with lowish heat setting and extra rosin for some help. 

Not saying you can't get through a pcb without messing up a trace.  I found I had to relube my GH soldering pump because it was too heavily lubed in the first place.  Too much lube caused some sticktion after some desoldering.  After cleaning and light lubing of the soldering pump I got through without a hitch.

I bought a desoldering station to work on my orion pcb but it was only sucking 3/4th's of the solder. It was disappointing that a 400 dollar machine couldn't do the work and I ended up returning it. Then I had to buy a manual pump the "ss-02" and that worked flawlessly but I needed the patience of a god. My desoldering was nearly flawless when I finished and I was so shocked that I somehow managed to f it up when I saw the dead smd led's

anyways thanks for the plastic plate fil 

[E3E]

Yeah I noticed that I found it easier to desolder duck's pcbs with a manual soldering pump.  When I used my hakko desoldering iron on a lightsaver pcb it tore it a new one and that was with lowish heat setting and extra rosin for some help. 

Not saying you can't get through a pcb without messing up a trace.  I found I had to relube my GH soldering pump because it was too heavily lubed in the first place.  Too much lube caused some sticktion after some desoldering.  After cleaning and light lubing of the soldering pump I got through without a hitch.

I was a bit of a novice then, only having worked on my multi-layer PCB Rapoo KX boards that were my introduction to the hobby, and really, because they were PITA multilayer PCBs, I bought a desoldering iron just for them, as I was doing switch swaps on them, and that included LEDs and all that fun stuff. Yeah, I guess I've always been passionate.

That said, again, I was a novice with the Octagon, but when I took the iron to the Duck Eagle PCB that was given to me by Deci for my hotswappable Alps project, I desoldered all of his switches using the desoldering iron with not a single lifted pad. There is certainly a technique to it, but I have to say, it's one of those things you feel more out of your intuition through experience than anything that can be described through words.

But do be careful, because these pads do curl up in the fetal position if too much heat gets to them.

I plan on taking a drill to my Leeku Alphas PCB (for the Orion v2) like I have with my hotswappable Alps Eagles. Hope nothing goes wrong.

Oh right, and like filphil expressed: flux is your friend. It makes for a lot more hassle-free and efficient soldering. Some people also swear by using lead alloy solder, but I prefer being a wimp and sticking with ROHS lead-free stuff. The lead-free stuff is always rosin core as well, but that's not enough sometimes. I hear lead solder works really well, but I just don't want to deal with that stuff.

[lootbag]

Yeah I noticed that I found it easier to desolder duck's pcbs with a manual soldering pump.  When I used my hakko desoldering iron on a lightsaver pcb it tore it a new one and that was with lowish heat setting and extra rosin for some help. 

Not saying you can't get through a pcb without messing up a trace.  I found I had to relube my GH soldering pump because it was too heavily lubed in the first place.  Too much lube caused some sticktion after some desoldering.  After cleaning and light lubing of the soldering pump I got through without a hitch.

I was a bit of a novice then, only having worked on my multi-layer PCB Rapoo KX boards that were my introduction to the hobby, and really, because they were PITA multilayer PCBs, I bought a desoldering iron just for them, as I was doing switch swaps on them, and that included LEDs and all that fun stuff. Yeah, I guess I've always been passionate.

That said, again, I was a novice with the Octagon, but when I took the iron to the Duck Eagle PCB that was given to me by Deci for my hotswappable Alps project, I desoldered all of his switches using the desoldering iron with not a single lifted pad. There is certainly a technique to it, but I have to say, it's one of those things you feel more out of your intuition through experience than anything that can be described through words.

But do be careful, because these pads do curl up in the fetal position if too much heat gets to them.

I plan on taking a drill to my Leeku Alphas PCB (for the Orion v2) like I have with my hotswappable Alps Eagles. Hope nothing goes wrong.

Oh right, and like filphil expressed: flux is your friend. It makes for a lot more hassle-free and efficient soldering. Some people also swear by using lead alloy solder, but I prefer being a wimp and sticking with ROHS lead-free stuff. The lead-free stuff is always rosin core as well, but that's not enough sometimes. I hear lead solder works really well, but I just don't want to deal with that stuff.

I guess it really is a "feel" thing and can vary from person to person (equipment to equipment)
Jumped right in after a plethora of YouTube videos.
But it was still nerve wracking doing my first desoldering job on an expensive Duck Viper.

Swapped in the smallest tip, set the temp to 350, made contact (gun to LED), felt the solder melt after literally a second, pulled the trigger.
Had to use small needle nose pliers to pull the LEDs out with a bit of force, not too much.
Did not even use flux or add any solder to the existing joints.
Everything went smoothly, hopefully because of the very little contact time between gun and pads.

[appleonama]

just finished the orion with plastic plate

hmm I am not sure how I feel about it. It feels flimsy and cheap .... especially with these jt keycaps. Only if I had my hyperfuse set......! ctrl alt excuses 

I am sad now I was expecting a better feel maybe it is the caps.

Well now I wait for my shipment of mx greys and I will mod them with 62g gold spring and gateron clear tops.

[yicaoyimu]

just finished the orion with plastic plate

hmm I am not sure how I feel about it. It feels flimsy and cheap .... especially with these jt keycaps. Only if I had my hyperfuse set......! ctrl alt excuses 

I am sad now I was expecting a better feel maybe it is the caps.

Well now I wait for my shipment of mx greys and I will mod them with 62g gold spring and gateron clear tops.

Plastic plate gives me the worst typing experience I ever had.



Grey switches on aluminum (steel) plate is exactly what I did with Orion v1 BTW.

[appleonama]

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just finished the orion with plastic plate

hmm I am not sure how I feel about it. It feels flimsy and cheap .... especially with these jt keycaps. Only if I had my hyperfuse set......! ctrl alt excuses 

I am sad now I was expecting a better feel maybe it is the caps.

Well now I wait for my shipment of mx greys and I will mod them with 62g gold spring and gateron clear tops.

Plastic plate gives me the worst typing experience I ever had.

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Grey switches on aluminum (steel) plate is exactly what I did with Orion v1 BTW.

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Typing on the plastic plate is slowy growing on me. The major issue with the mushy feel at first was the led's. They kept clashing with the jtk keycaps which are a bit thicker than the GMK keycaps. Once I removed the led's typing on the board feels so much more natural. It definitely does feel like typing on pcb mounted switches I feel the pronounced tactility. It is a much more interesting feeling than typing steel. I think I really like it now lol

[rainb1ood]

I didn't like the plastic plate as well, its like it makes the wobble on zealios more pronounced lol

And yes same with me, it feels like typing on a PCB mounted board

[appleonama]

I didn't like the plastic plate as well, its like it makes the wobble on zealios more pronounced lol

what do you mean wobble?

[appleonama]

love the clear bottom 

[rainb1ood]

When you move the keys as if its a trackpoint, it wobbles a lot vs Cherry switches.

I didn't like the plastic plate as well, its like it makes the wobble on zealios more pronounced lol

what do you mean wobble?

[appleonama]

When you move the keys as if its a trackpoint, it wobbles a lot vs Cherry switches.

I didn't like the plastic plate as well, its like it makes the wobble on zealios more pronounced lol

what do you mean wobble?

ehh I just checked it is only a tiny bit compare to my board with mx clears

[appleonama]

its official the plastic plate grew on me I am in love now 

[filphil]

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its official the plastic plate grew on me I am in love now  :p

Glad you ended up liking the plastic.

When I was actively testing I thought this:

can anyone explain the difference in feel between the 3 plates? Does the acrylic plate have less of a 'ping'?

If you're familiar with pcb mount or gons polycarbonate plate I would say it reminds me of those. Probably closer to the former actually. I opted for plastic over aluminum and steel for my board.

After typing on plastic for a while I thought I'd give the aluminum a longer test run and I still miss the gentle feel plastic gives over the metal plates.  I WILL COME BACK TO THE PLASTIC WHEN MY ZEALIOS COME IN. 

[ctrlX]

My first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.

While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out...  Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.

Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.

The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. 

I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.









Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!

[ramnes]

My first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.

While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out...  Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.

Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.

The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. 

I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.

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Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Congrats!

[ika]

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its official the plastic plate grew on me I am in love now  :p

Glad you ended up liking the plastic.

When I was actively testing I thought this:

can anyone explain the difference in feel between the 3 plates? Does the acrylic plate have less of a 'ping'?

If you're familiar with pcb mount or gons polycarbonate plate I would say it reminds me of those. Probably closer to the former actually. I opted for plastic over aluminum and steel for my board.

After typing on plastic for a while I thought I'd give the aluminum a longer test run and I still miss the gentle feel plastic gives over the metal plates.  I WILL COME BACK TO THE PLASTIC WHEN MY ZEALIOS COME IN. 

For what it's worth, I hated Zealios on acrylic. I'm typing on Zealios/alu plate now and it's a much more enjoyable experience. I do like the feel of scratchy cherry switches on acrylic, though. Maybe I'm just weird.