Orion V2 Kustom TKL Group Buy

[appleonama]

More

My first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.

While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out...  Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.

Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.

The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. 

I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!

nice board man! only issue is that iso layout 

[ctrlX]

More

My first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.

While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out...  Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.

Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.

The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. 

I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!

nice board man! only issue is that iso layout 

Hehe, cheers! Being from EU I'm more used to ISO layout. I like ANSI also and got really used to it after 3 years of studying in Australia. I did however have a problem with two big-ass-shifts on ANSI.  I also find coding easier on that layout, but not for typing.

[frostylove]

My first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.

While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out...  Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.

Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.

The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. 

I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!

This one REALLY rocks

[E3E]

Hotswappable Alps Orion v2 with Alps SKCM Blue + SKCL Brown for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock with green LEDs. Dyed AT101 PBT caps. I tried dyeing two sample spacebars, but they warped easily and just came out an ugly brown, so I used Krylon Fusion on the space bar. Waiting for the paint to fully cure in a week before I mount it. I just set up up for these photos.

Oh right, I used Duplicolor Metalcast "Smoke" to darken the stainless steel plate:




So here's the board:






My Orion v2 possesses the power of levitation!




Here you can clearly see the holtite sockets used for the hotswap mod. I'm not sure how I feel about this bottom as it makes the board feel like nothing more than a top bezel with feet, lol.




Stealthy in the background with my first Duck in the foreground. :3

I wanted the Alphas to be a lighter greyish black, and they technically are, but I think I left them in a wee bit too long. Now it looks like I just have a BoB stealth board, which is pretty cool. I have IBM 5140 caps I could use for a piano white and black look and SGI caps I could use if I want to redo the lighter keys in that grey color I was thinking of.

What do you guys thing? Good as is?

It's been one hell of a week. The hotswap mod and this build has drained the hell out of me. 

[bocahgundul]

OMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led 

[E3E]

OMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led 

Thanks man, that definitely makes me happy to hear. This build has been soooo stressful, hahaha.

Yep, I think I'll either turn them off or make them a solid color or something. I haven't even programmed the firmware. I just wanted to finally finish this one, haha.

[bocahgundul]

OMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led 

Thanks man, that definitely makes me happy to hear. This build has been soooo stressful, hahaha.

Yep, I think I'll either turn them off or make them a solid color or something. I haven't even programmed the firmware. I just wanted to finally finish this one, haha.

Solid white color! and its gonna be a dankest board ever

[E3E]

OMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led 

Thanks man, that definitely makes me happy to hear. This build has been soooo stressful, hahaha.

Yep, I think I'll either turn them off or make them a solid color or something. I haven't even programmed the firmware. I just wanted to finally finish this one, haha.

Solid white color! and its gonna be a dankest board ever

Oh, white? Good idea! That wasn't even on my mind.

[FLFisherman]

Hotswappable Alps Orion v2 with Alps SKCM Blue + SKCL Brown for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock with green LEDs. Dyed AT101 PBT caps. I tried dyeing two sample spacebars, but they warped easily and just came out an ugly brown, so I used Krylon Fusion on the space bar. Waiting for the paint to fully cure in a week before I mount it. I just set up up for these photos.

Oh right, I used Duplicolor Metalcast "Smoke" to darken the stainless steel plate:

Show Image

Show Image

So here's the board:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

My Orion v2 possesses the power of levitation!

Show Image

Show Image

Here you can clearly see the holtite sockets used for the hotswap mod. I'm not sure how I feel about this bottom as it makes the board feel like nothing more than a top bezel with feet, lol.

Show Image

Stealthy in the background with my first Duck in the foreground. :3

I wanted the Alphas to be a lighter greyish black, and they technically are, but I think I left them in a wee bit too long. Now it looks like I just have a BoB stealth board, which is pretty cool. I have IBM 5140 caps I could use for a piano white and black look and SGI caps I could use if I want to redo the lighter keys in that grey color I was thinking of.

What do you guys thing? Good as is?

It's been one hell of a week. The hotswap mod and this build has drained the hell out of me. 

It's said that you can always improve on what you have. However, I honestly don't see how here.

[E3E]

It's said that you can always improve on what you have. However, I honestly don't see how here.

Thanks, FL. I think it's just a bit of all the frustration from the past weekend this took to build getting to me. Like, I was working on it from day into the early morning each day, so I'm really spent. I never thought I could get so stressed out from a keyboard build.

I need to work on the Lightpad next. Cool thing since it's black too, so it'll match perfectly. Then after that I think I'm taking a break, haha.

[FLFisherman]

It's said that you can always improve on what you have. However, I honestly don't see how here.

Thanks, FL. I think it's just a bit of all the frustration from the past weekend this took to build getting to me. Like, I was working on it from day into the early morning each day, so I'm really spent. I never thought I could get so stressed out from a keyboard build.

I need to work on the Lightpad next. Cool thing since it's black too, so it'll match perfectly. Then after that I think I'm taking a break, haha.

Always looking forward to what awesome keyboard you're making/modifying next. 

I have got to try changing up one of my keyboards, if only to take it apart and put it back together again. Looks like a fun pasttime.

[bocahgundul]

OMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led 

Thanks man, that definitely makes me happy to hear. This build has been soooo stressful, hahaha.

Yep, I think I'll either turn them off or make them a solid color or something. I haven't even programmed the firmware. I just wanted to finally finish this one, haha.

Solid white color! and its gonna be a dankest board ever

Oh, white? Good idea! That wasn't even on my mind.

Yep white goes perfectly with blacks
or green, green is perfect too

[Pemdas]

Hotswappable Alps Orion v2 with Alps SKCM Blue + SKCL Brown for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock with green LEDs. Dyed AT101 PBT caps. I tried dyeing two sample spacebars, but they warped easily and just came out an ugly brown, so I used Krylon Fusion on the space bar. Waiting for the paint to fully cure in a week before I mount it. I just set up up for these photos.

Oh right, I used Duplicolor Metalcast "Smoke" to darken the stainless steel plate:

Show Image

Show Image

So here's the board:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

My Orion v2 possesses the power of levitation!

Show Image

Show Image

Here you can clearly see the holtite sockets used for the hotswap mod. I'm not sure how I feel about this bottom as it makes the board feel like nothing more than a top bezel with feet, lol.

Show Image

Stealthy in the background with my first Duck in the foreground. :3

I wanted the Alphas to be a lighter greyish black, and they technically are, but I think I left them in a wee bit too long. Now it looks like I just have a BoB stealth board, which is pretty cool. I have IBM 5140 caps I could use for a piano white and black look and SGI caps I could use if I want to redo the lighter keys in that grey color I was thinking of.

What do you guys thing? Good as is?

It's been one hell of a week. The hotswap mod and this build has drained the hell out of me. 

Oh man best Orion v2 so far! Hotswappable switches is such a cool feature, definitely worth the work you put in imo The dye job on the caps look fantastic too.

The painted plate is sweet too, I saw it on a couple other builds as well but totally forgot when I put mine together I'll definitely have to keep it in mind for my next build. It's a really nice touch!

[rainb1ood]

Amazing work as usual E3E!

I love the minimalist look of the final product and hotswappable alps too!

[chilldude_22]

Hotswappable Alps Orion v2 with Alps SKCM Blue + SKCL Brown for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock with green LEDs. Dyed AT101 PBT caps. I tried dyeing two sample spacebars, but they warped easily and just came out an ugly brown, so I used Krylon Fusion on the space bar. Waiting for the paint to fully cure in a week before I mount it. I just set up up for these photos.

Oh right, I used Duplicolor Metalcast "Smoke" to darken the stainless steel plate:

Show Image

Show Image

So here's the board:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

My Orion v2 possesses the power of levitation!

Show Image

Show Image

Here you can clearly see the holtite sockets used for the hotswap mod. I'm not sure how I feel about this bottom as it makes the board feel like nothing more than a top bezel with feet, lol.

Show Image

Stealthy in the background with my first Duck in the foreground. :3

I wanted the Alphas to be a lighter greyish black, and they technically are, but I think I left them in a wee bit too long. Now it looks like I just have a BoB stealth board, which is pretty cool. I have IBM 5140 caps I could use for a piano white and black look and SGI caps I could use if I want to redo the lighter keys in that grey color I was thinking of.

What do you guys thing? Good as is?

It's been one hell of a week. The hotswap mod and this build has drained the hell out of me. 

You've done it again! Brilliant work. Incredible board.

[ika]

I think this is a long shot but does anyone have a spare alu plate/pcb combo, or would like to trade for my steel plate with lubed 62g MX clears and gold stabs? Would like to grab an unbuilt combo but wouldn't mind if it's built with 62/65g zealios.

[E3E]

I'm doubting this, but would anyone happen to have a brass weight for the Orion v2 they wouldn't mind passing along? That's one of the last things I'd like for my build. I'm generally toning down my investment in the keyboard hobby a bit as it is. Just want to get the weight and then a case for the other Eagle I have and then I'm going to take a break on everything but taking assembly requests.

It's too much sometimes!

Anyway, if anyone would happen to have a brass weight for the aluminum bottom of the Orion v2 and wouldn't mind selling it, please let me know!



Really liking the look of the "dynamic duo" as I call them. No more Jukebox or Cherry MX for my Lightpad now, haha.

[E3E]

Oh man best Orion v2 so far! Hotswappable switches is such a cool feature, definitely worth the work you put in imo The dye job on the caps look fantastic too.

The painted plate is sweet too, I saw it on a couple other builds as well but totally forgot when I put mine together I'll definitely have to keep it in mind for my next build. It's a really nice touch!

Oh man, I missed your post earlier! Thanks man, that means a lot to me since the job was so stressful. PART of my reasoning of all the hotswap modding I do is so I can get more out of my boards and really feel like I have an endgame instead of, well... needing to buy more boards and justifying it by saying I want to build one with switch A or B or C, haha. I don't think I'll be swapping the blues out of the Orion v2 any time soon though.

I have a little aluminum carrying case I bought for my Octagon (which ended up getting its own custom case ) that fits the Orion v2 well, so that's where it'll be stored for now, haha. How are you liking your own Alps v2?

Do you think it'll be your daily driver, or are you going to switch back to the MX PCB and plate?

You've done it again! Brilliant work. Incredible board.

Amazing work as usual E3E!

I love the minimalist look of the final product and hotswappable alps too!

Thanks again, guys. I didn't have many options when it came to owning an Alps Orion v2; I feel lucky that I even had the opportunity since not many people ordered one. Black was never a color I really thought about having on a custom, but I ended up with a black Lightpad because it's what was available (I wanted silver), and then ended up withe a black Orion v2, which just so happens to really work well with the Lightpad, so it turned out just amazing in the end.

I usually like flashy builds with vibrant colors, but my first little keyboard build, with the Rapoo KX as a base, was blacked out, and so this is like... that reborn. Blacked out minimalist stealth looks are nice in their own way.

I know, that Rapoo KX pic is so lame. )

[ctrlX]

I'm doubting this, but would anyone happen to have a brass weight for the Orion v2 they wouldn't mind passing along? That's one of the last things I'd like for my build. I'm generally toning down my investment in the keyboard hobby a bit as it is. Just want to get the weight and then a case for the other Eagle I have and then I'm going to take a break on everything but taking assembly requests.

It's too much sometimes!

Anyway, if anyone would happen to have a brass weight for the aluminum bottom of the Orion v2 and wouldn't mind selling it, please let me know!

Show Image

Really liking the look of the "dynamic duo" as I call them. :P No more Jukebox or Cherry MX for my Lightpad now, haha.

Really nice work there. Looks great! Makes me think of the Lockheed F-117 Nighthawk  ;)

[ctrlX]

Has anyone successfully removed the top housing using the clippers method on soldered switches on the Orion with steel plate?

Noticed the other day that 2 of my switches have a very subtle "springy" sound. I want to pop the top off and see what is going on inside. Maybe add some extra lube and/or change the springs. As soon as I tried taking the top off the plastic started to bend and would have eventually cracked if more force was applied. The top was nowhere near of coming off.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

P.S. Switches are Zealios, which are known to be a bit more sensitive.

[ika]

Has anyone successfully removed the top housing using the clippers method on soldered switches on the Orion with steel plate?

Noticed the other day that 2 of my switches have a very subtle "springy" sound. I want to pop the top off and see what is going on inside. Maybe add some extra lube and/or change the springs. As soon as I tried taking the top off the plastic started to bend and would have eventually cracked if more force was applied. The top was nowhere near of coming off.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

P.S. Switches are Zealios, which are known to be a bit more sensitive.

You have to desolder. The plate doesn't support switch top removal.

[ctrlX]

Has anyone successfully removed the top housing using the clippers method on soldered switches on the Orion with steel plate?

Noticed the other day that 2 of my switches have a very subtle "springy" sound. I want to pop the top off and see what is going on inside. Maybe add some extra lube and/or change the springs. As soon as I tried taking the top off the plastic started to bend and would have eventually cracked if more force was applied. The top was nowhere near of coming off.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

P.S. Switches are Zealios, which are known to be a bit more sensitive.

You have to desolder. The plate doesn't support switch top removal.

Ah, I see. Thanks for the info.

[FrostyToast]

Super late addition to the question of plate materials for alps.
There are a couple of areas in which we can explain this: through production logistics and principles of alps switches.

Now, production is simple: less options, less cost. Since alps isn't very popular to begin with, having only one plate option is the only viable route.
Now here's a wall of text to give you a little alps crash course.

Alps also have an issue with its mounting method; it's ****. Alps switches MUST have a plate to mount to otherwise there is zero stability due to he fact that alps switches were never designed for pcb mounting; unlike MX switches which can attach to the pcb via extra legs.
This would mean that all stability would have to rely on the integrity of the plate which requires two things: distinctive mounting cutouts and a strong material.
Plates for alps cannot offer multiple layout configurations because that would imply crossover between mounting cutouts resulting in the switch not having anything to mount to on on or more sides. Unlike MX switches alps cannot compensate by also attaching itself to another component like the pcb.
Sturdiness is the other issue and is the main reason why alps plates are almost always steel. Though other materials, especially when looking at tactile switches, see benefits in acoustics and tactility, a soft material such as plastic would fail to mount the switch properly and would result in a very unsatisfactory feel and questionable integrity. Additionally, even aluminum in comparison to steel is considered quite soft and will fail to provide the most satisfactory security for mounting. Stainless steel on the other hand is the most accessible strong material out there and is the prime candidate to offer stability for misting alps switches.


TLDR: Alps switches have trash design and require a stainless steel plate to be mounted properly.

[E3E]

Super late addition to the question of plate materials for alps.
There are a couple of areas in which we can explain this: through production logistics and principles of alps switches.

Now, production is simple: less options, less cost. Since alps isn't very popular to begin with, having only one plate option is the only viable route.
Now here's a wall of text to give you a little alps crash course.

Alps also have an issue with its mounting method; it's ****. Alps switches MUST have a plate to mount to otherwise there is zero stability due to he fact that alps switches were never designed for pcb mounting; unlike MX switches which can attach to the pcb via extra legs.
This would mean that all stability would have to rely on the integrity of the plate which requires two things: distinctive mounting cutouts and a strong material.
Plates for alps cannot offer multiple layout configurations because that would imply crossover between mounting cutouts resulting in the switch not having anything to mount to on on or more sides. Unlike MX switches alps cannot compensate by also attaching itself to another component like the pcb.
Sturdiness is the other issue and is the main reason why alps plates are almost always steel. Though other materials, especially when looking at tactile switches, see benefits in acoustics and tactility, a soft material such as plastic would fail to mount the switch properly and would result in a very unsatisfactory feel and questionable integrity. Additionally, even aluminum in comparison to steel is considered quite soft and will fail to provide the most satisfactory security for mounting. Stainless steel on the other hand is the most accessible strong material out there and is the prime candidate to offer stability for misting alps switches.


TLDR: Alps switches have trash design and require a stainless steel plate to be mounted properly.

I don't even remember when this question was asked, but I don't agree that Alps needs a stainless steel plate, let alone one made of metal at all. There were plenty of Alps boards back in the day that used plastic plates. The crappiness factor of plastic is something I've seen a lot of people using plastic plates on their Orion v2s express though and that's for MX.

I use a carbon fiber universal plate with Cherry stabs on my Hammer Alps (Eagle)  build and it doesn't have any issues. I'd say aluminum would be just fine with Alps and universal cut outs would not be a huge obstacle as long as at least two sides are supported; that's just from my experience. I used LeandreN's plate for the two Eagles I built with Alps switches since the notches just happen to support Alps switch mounting very well. They are not THAT sensitive. I'm even using PCB mounted switches on my Lightpad until the plate I'm having made for it comes in since I've hotswap modded it for Alps as well and wanted it to at least look complete until the plate arrives.

They aren't that trash, now. 

[FrostyToast]

I would be more concerned for how such boards would stand the test of time.
I have alps board where several switches have become loose to the point where I could probably pull them straight out with my fingers. In fact, I had a friend who did that with every single switch of the board so effortlessly so as to not damage the switches in any significant way.

[E3E]

I would be more concerned for how such boards would stand the test of time.
I have alps board where several switches have become loose to the point where I could probably pull them straight out with my fingers. In fact, I had a friend who did that with every single switch of the board so effortlessly so as to not damage the switches in any significant way.

You mean even while they were soldered in? I've seen some Alps boards with poor soldering jobs where the contact pins separated from the pads before, so that seems likely, but I've only seen that on poor quality boards like Focus FK2001s.

As far as my modded builds, they are hotswappable so they are meant to be pulled out of their sockets. Except pulling them straight out with your fingers is practically impossible. The combination of a plate and the sockets makes it absolutely brutal to do without a tool. They have been holding up pretty well for the past couple of months of use and haven't had any issues even with some switch swaps and layout changes put in.

In your case, it seems like a combination of the plate retaining "wings" becoming flattened and the contacts breaking off of the pads on the PCB, which is just ridiculous, haha. On Alps Electric branded PCBs, I've mainly seen only quality solder jobs. Daewoo (Leading Edge) and Zenith as well. I think some of the Taiwanese companiese, not all of them,but some, had really low standards of quality.

[appleonama]

So I think I received an unprogrammed orion v2 pcb from duck lol

I don't know what to do  )

edit: the pcb is always on flip mode

[rainb1ood]

Did you try the --force option?

[appleonama]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

[E3E]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

[appleonama]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

[aznairjordan]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know

[appleonama]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know

yes please I will appreciate! please and thank you

[appleonama]

hi duck0113! I see you lurking lol 

[aznairjordan]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know

yes please I will appreciate! please and thank you

this is from filphil:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0

The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.



It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!

[appleonama]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know

yes please I will appreciate! please and thank you

this is from filphil:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0

The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.



It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!

ahh aright its similar to this guide

http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docx

maybe I have to do all the same steps with this new pcb.

my other orion pcb works completely fine but this new one as shown is always on flip mode.

[aznairjordan]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know

yes please I will appreciate! please and thank you

this is from filphil:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0

The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.



It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!

ahh aright its similar to this guide

http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docx

maybe I have to do all the same steps with this new pcb.

my other orion pcb works completely fine but this new one as shown is always on flip mode.

I did it that way at first and it was working for my until I did something weird and thought I bricked it. Followed the guide I linked you and it was perfect

[appleonama]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know

yes please I will appreciate! please and thank you

this is from filphil:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0

The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.



It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!

ahh aright its similar to this guide

http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docx

maybe I have to do all the same steps with this new pcb.

my other orion pcb works completely fine but this new one as shown is always on flip mode.

I did it that way at first and it was working for my until I did something weird and thought I bricked it. Followed the guide I linked you and it was perfect

Got it to work bro thanks!
I didn't follow the link but I started to mess around with the atmel flip program. The chip was blank so all I had to do was load the flip file into the chip. After that the board could be programmed with 02d time to build my aluminum orion!

[aznairjordan]

Did you try the --force option?

doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end

Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?

yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL 

Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know

yes please I will appreciate! please and thank you

this is from filphil:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0

The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.



It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!

ahh aright its similar to this guide

http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docx

maybe I have to do all the same steps with this new pcb.

my other orion pcb works completely fine but this new one as shown is always on flip mode.

I did it that way at first and it was working for my until I did something weird and thought I bricked it. Followed the guide I linked you and it was perfect

Got it to work bro thanks!
I didn't follow the link but I started to mess around with the atmel flip program. The chip was blank so all I had to do was load the flip file into the chip. After that the board could be programmed with 02d time to build my aluminum orion!

Glad you got it to work was a huge relief to me when I got the board to work so I'm happy if I was in any way helpful to you too!

[E3E]

I really wanted a weight for my Orion v2:







I did this all by hand with a dremel because I'm crazy (and cheap).

I still have to polish it, and I'm waiting for brass screws, but yep.

[naasfu]

I really wanted a weight for my Orion v2:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

I did this all by hand with a dremel because I'm crazy (and cheap).

I still have to polish it, and I'm waiting for brass screws, but yep.

can confirm, E3E is crazy. 

that's really cool though. :)  are you also thinking of engraving something on it?

[E3E]

can confirm, E3E is crazy. 

that's really cool though.   are you also thinking of engraving something on it?

Thanks man!

I might eventually! If I did it myself, I'd have to practice a bit before I dare take the plunge, haha.

This is pretty awesome though! It bumped the weight up from 5 lbs 15 oz to 7 lbs 8 oz. Super cool!

[Pemdas]

I really wanted a weight for my Orion v2:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

I did this all by hand with a dremel because I'm crazy (and cheap).

I still have to polish it, and I'm waiting for brass screws, but yep.

Oh man I might have to give this a shot.

Did you just buy a brass block and shape it yourself?  :eek:

Very cool  :thumb: :thumb:

[E3E]

Oh man I might have to give this a shot.

Did you just buy a brass block and shape it yourself? 

Very cool 

I'd go for it if I were you! Drilling the screw holes was the trickiest part (keep spraying down the part with a lubricant, it helps a ton). Cutting the .75~ inches from the width needed to make it fit was also very tedious.

It isn't perfect, but I think it still looks great! Just waiting for those brass screws now.

I used copper, since, if I couldn't get an official brass weight from Korea, I figured I'd do one better and use copper since it's heavier. The brass screws should add some weight too, haha.

I used a 12 x 4 x 1/8" plate. The recess is only 1/10th of an inch thick, but 1/8th works just fine. 

Yeah, I did it all by hand. I had no idea what the CNC would cost, so I decided to just do it myself. It's hardly ever going to be seen anyway, since it's under the top, but I tried to do it as carefully as possible.

If CNC wouldn't cost much, then it wouldn't be too expensive to just have it done somewhere since the copper plate only cost $24.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281290504531?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is what I bought.

If you want the traditional brass look, this should work~

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-SHEET-11ga-4-x-12-x-1-8-THICK-/301743434556?hash=item46414f6b3c:g:v9QAAOSwu4BVw~wq

Oh yeah, how's your Alps Orion v2, man? Have you decided on keeping the Alps plate in the board, or do you prefer Cherry? I'm super curious to hear if we have another Alps fan here. You used Alps SKCL Green, right? Lovely switch.

[aznairjordan]

Oh man I might have to give this a shot.

Did you just buy a brass block and shape it yourself? 

Very cool 

I'd go for it if I were you! Drilling the screw holes was the trickiest part (keep spraying down the part with a lubricant, it helps a ton). Cutting the .75~ inches from the width needed to make it fit was also very tedious.

It isn't perfect, but I think it still looks great! Just waiting for those brass screws now.

I used copper, since, if I couldn't get an official brass weight from Korea, I figured I'd do one better and use copper since it's heavier. The brass screws should add some weight too, haha.

I used a 12 x 4 x 1/8" plate. The recess is only 1/10th of an inch thick, but 1/8th works just fine. 

Yeah, I did it all by hand. I had no idea what the CNC would cost, so I decided to just do it myself. It's hardly ever going to be seen anyway, since it's under the top, but I tried to do it as carefully as possible.

If CNC wouldn't cost much, then it wouldn't be too expensive to just have it done somewhere since the copper plate only cost $24.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281290504531?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is what I bought.

If you want the traditional brass look, this should work~

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-SHEET-11ga-4-x-12-x-1-8-THICK-/301743434556?hash=item46414f6b3c:g:v9QAAOSwu4BVw~wq

Oh yeah, how's your Alps Orion v2, man? Have you decided on keeping the Alps plate in the board, or do you prefer Cherry? I'm super curious to hear if we have another Alps fan here. You used Alps SKCL Green, right? Lovely switch.

... Can I commission you to make one for me too?!?!?

[Pemdas]

Oh man I might have to give this a shot.

Did you just buy a brass block and shape it yourself? 

Very cool 

I'd go for it if I were you! Drilling the screw holes was the trickiest part (keep spraying down the part with a lubricant, it helps a ton). Cutting the .75~ inches from the width needed to make it fit was also very tedious.

It isn't perfect, but I think it still looks great! Just waiting for those brass screws now.

I used copper, since, if I couldn't get an official brass weight from Korea, I figured I'd do one better and use copper since it's heavier. The brass screws should add some weight too, haha.

I used a 12 x 4 x 1/8" plate. The recess is only 1/10th of an inch thick, but 1/8th works just fine. 

Yeah, I did it all by hand. I had no idea what the CNC would cost, so I decided to just do it myself. It's hardly ever going to be seen anyway, since it's under the top, but I tried to do it as carefully as possible.

If CNC wouldn't cost much, then it wouldn't be too expensive to just have it done somewhere since the copper plate only cost $24.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281290504531?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is what I bought.

If you want the traditional brass look, this should work~

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-SHEET-11ga-4-x-12-x-1-8-THICK-/301743434556?hash=item46414f6b3c:g:v9QAAOSwu4BVw~wq

Oh yeah, how's your Alps Orion v2, man? Have you decided on keeping the Alps plate in the board, or do you prefer Cherry? I'm super curious to hear if we have another Alps fan here. You used Alps SKCL Green, right? Lovely switch.

Thanks for the links, ordered one of the copper sheets! You're an inspiration E3E 

It's crazy how much weight such a thin plate adds to the board! I've got to dig up my dremel from somewhere in the garage now....

And as far as liking alps over cherry, I could never choose a favorite between Cherry/Alps/Topre!  They all feel great in their own way and are different enough to justify keeping all of them around. I don't think I could choose one as objectively better than the rest. I usually change keyboards multiple times a day cause I love the feel of changing switches so much. But for what it's worth I'm pretty sure I'm going to keep my Orion v2 as an alps board just because of how unique and awesome it is! I do really miss my pretty mx keycaps though

[ramnes]

Awesome stuff, E3E!

Would anyone be interested in a small GB for an alternative anodized Orion v2 plate, with cutouts that allow switch opening?

[filphil]

If you're looking to get some machining done you can follow these dimensions provided by duck.  Thickness isn't provided but there is actually a lot of space between the pcb and housing bottom so it can be fairly thick. 



At one point in time I was planning on getting a few made but my source has been infinitely busy with other projects.  Plus my interest in keyboards has taken a dive so the  motivation just isn't there.

The plate adds a noticeable amount of weight.  It's a real treat. 

[appleonama]

so this is my near complete orion

just need sherry to replace my less than key and alt. maybe my 8 and l for the blue smudges

[omgar]

so this is my near complete orion

just need sherry to replace my less than key and alt. maybe my 8 and l for the blue smudges

Show Image

Looks fantastic!