I have been having Logitech z2300 for some time now, probably for the past 6 years if I'm correct. First pair the speakers started to make crackling noise, was under time frame of warranty so they sent me another one, that one had same problem so I end up buying another set because in all honesty I was happy with the set up. Here I'm 2-3 years later and one of the speakers started having the same issues... If I stand correct that's usually a problem of the satellites detaching from the base and probably I will need to reset them and glue them back, either is that or wiring needs to be de solder and solder back, I don't know what's the issue but probably is the first one I mentioned.
I could make my life 100 times easier and just get z623 or the sp2500 2.1 setups and call it a day and not having to deal with anything extra, just plug,play and enjoy.... but I would like to try something different, and I'm not that experienced when comes to converting regular subwoofer and speakers to PC, its easy if you have to hook them up with whatever receiver is popular today with the home entertainment.
So what I would like to do is probably have similar setup like the z2300 but stand alone and hopefully I have less problems with longevity of the stand alone subwoofer and speakers since I would guess they should be little more durable perhaps?
Anyways I understand that this an audiophile site and people will jump into recommending some setup $1000 or more, thanks but I'm not interested in that, I was pretty happy with the z2300 but I don't mind paying little bit more for better quality longevity wise and sound experience wise. So I did some research and mainly I'm looking into the price range of Pioneers,JBL,Polk etc etc etc. They all have decent reviews and it all came to matter of looks, in my taste JBL look most attractive, I'm sure here on this site people would debate that LOL.
Ok here is what I have in mind of buying and if someone has a better recommendation for a brand that has better reputation quality wise, then please chime in.
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011
Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Amplifier2.1 channel: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA...60_SR160%2C160_ ( the Amp is rated 40W per channel for the speakers while the speakers are rated both at 125W, the subwoofer channel is rated 68W and while the subwoofer itself is rated at 300W) - not sure if this matters but I wrote it here in case if people are lazy to read the links descriptions I provided for the peripherals.
I don't know if this matters but this is the sound card I have in my PC: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271003( the sound card on the back has 5.1 channel inputs + some usb connections I guess not sure if that helps with the setup I want to go or if it matter at all.... like I said above I have only used the typical PC 2.1 plug and play setup)
So please any input is appreciated specially regarding the Amplifier 2.1, the speakers, the subwoofer.... etc etc etc
I have been having Logitech z2300 for some time now, probably for the past 6 years if I'm correct. First pair the speakers started to make crackling noise, was under time frame of warranty so they sent me another one, that one had same problem so I end up buying another set because in all honesty I was happy with the set up. Here I'm 2-3 years later and one of the speakers started having the same issues... If I stand correct that's usually a problem of the satellites detaching from the base and probably I will need to reset them and glue them back, either is that or wiring needs to be de solder and solder back, I don't know what's the issue but probably is the first one I mentioned.
I could make my life 100 times easier and just get z623 or the sp2500 2.1 setups and call it a day and not having to deal with anything extra, just plug,play and enjoy.... but I would like to try something different, and I'm not that experienced when comes to converting regular subwoofer and speakers to PC, its easy if you have to hook them up with whatever receiver is popular today with the home entertainment.
So what I would like to do is probably have similar setup like the z2300 but stand alone and hopefully I have less problems with longevity of the stand alone subwoofer and speakers since I would guess they should be little more durable perhaps?
Anyways I understand that this an audiophile site and people will jump into recommending some setup $1000 or more, thanks but I'm not interested in that, I was pretty happy with the z2300 but I don't mind paying little bit more for better quality longevity wise and sound experience wise. So I did some research and mainly I'm looking into the price range of Pioneers,JBL,Polk etc etc etc. They all have decent reviews and it all came to matter of looks, in my taste JBL look most attractive, I'm sure here on this site people would debate that LOL.
Ok here is what I have in mind of buying and if someone has a better recommendation for a brand that has better reputation quality wise, then please chime in.
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011
Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Amplifier2.1 channel: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA...60_SR160%2C160_ ( the Amp is rated 40W per channel for the speakers while the speakers are rated both at 125W, the subwoofer channel is rated 68W and while the subwoofer itself is rated at 300W) - not sure if this matters but I wrote it here in case if people are lazy to read the links descriptions I provided for the peripherals.
I don't know if this matters but this is the sound card I have in my PC: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271003( the sound card on the back has 5.1 channel inputs + some usb connections I guess not sure if that helps with the setup I want to go or if it matter at all.... like I said above I have only used the typical PC 2.1 plug and play setup)
So please any input is appreciated specially regarding the Amplifier 2.1, the speakers, the subwoofer.... etc etc etc
Have you ever heard of BIC Venturi speakers? Something like the BICDV62SIB bookshelf speakers?
They are excellent monitors and you can get the V1020 (10") or V1220 (12") powered subwoofer.
As far as an amplifier is concerned, you might want to look into a good one. Perhaps looking into a nice Yamaha amplifier or reciever (used or new) would do the trick. It doesn't have to be too powerful, 40W-100W per channel is more than sufficient for that, because the subwoofer has it's own amplifier.
The JBL speakers are nice, but I am serious when I tell you the Venturis are the very best deal for the money. Your ears won't be disappointed.
Thanks for the input, I'm sort of set for the speakers and sub due to the amount of feedback left, popularity and first and most the looks department, I like how they look. So by what you saying regarding the Amplifier I don't need 2.1 channel, just a decent Yamaha 2.0 channel because the subwoofer has its own amplifier? Just trying to put my head around connecting the subwoofer to the Amp and the amp has only 2 channels, cause head count wise I have 3 peripherals that I want to hook up to 2 channels amp...
Any ways here is the Yamaha that should be good but kind of the size of it does not agree too much with my desk space http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?keywords=Yamaha%20amplifier&qid=1445191596&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I guess also will need the RCA to 3.5mm splitter cable right? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
The Yamaha seems to be awesome but size is the killer here for me :( Can you recommend another Amplifier in smaller size factor that's good?
If you're gonna buy a reciever, it's a good plan but the wrong executiion. Don't buy new. Stereo kit depreciates in a way that makes new GPUs look like T-bills.
Go to a few thrift shops, and there's a solid chance you'll find a fairly competent reciever that's a few years old, priced somewhere between $15 and $50. I've gotten a couple decent 2000-era 5.1 recievers out of thrift shops, and for your needs you don't even need that.
Pyle gets mixed reviews on Amazon, while this one gets much better ones and looks more simple than the Pyle http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1445194381&sr=1-2&keywords=Topping+TP20+mkII
Prices are about the same for example this Pyle one looks decked out but the reviews are little bit shady http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PTA4-2x120-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B003NVN1PY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1445194806&sr=1-1&keywords=pyle+120w+amplifier
So you think none of these will do me as good as the Yamaha, price difference is is only +$60 for the Yamaha, but that's not the issue, the issue is more the size factor and I don't see Yamaha making smaller ones, it the height of the Yamaha was around 4-1/2 inches then it wouldn't be a problem cause would of fit between my shelf and the desk table.... I think I'm screwed haha
Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.
You need something with optical out (toslink)
I don't even want to us HDMI audio
My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.
I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards, they're simply not designed for audio.
The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate DAC+amp.
I paid good bucks for that sound card so I don't have to use the mobo sound card. So far this is what looks to be on my list and if I'm missing anything that I need to include on the order please let me know, would hate to have to run to Best Buy as last minute notice....
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011
Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
RCA to 3.5mm split cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
As far as the speaker sound quality goes, I saw a video of the MAudio compared to the JBL, and while the MAudio being triple the price more than the JBL the difference was minimal in quality, but I think big role for me plays the overall look of the JBL components.
thanks the 7 year warranty might change my mind, where are they made?
yea I know that
yea I know that
dude is this how the FH-65B sound on their own? no Subwoofer? OMG!
EDIT: WOOOOW no subwoofer needed with these bad boys, so strong and yet sound is clear and no distortion, but they have such a nice boom/bass to them. Now ok, I'm excited now LOL Question is Will the Yamaha be enough to drive these 2 bad boys? That's me considering that later down the road if I upgrade to the subwoofer, mainly the sub feeds itself cause it has amplifier in it. So I would assume that the 100W rated Yamaha is ok for these 2 even those these 2 are rated 330W each, I mean I saw a video on you tube from a dude that was rocking these 2 with mini amplifier, but since now considering I don't need the subwoofer then space for the Amplifier is no longer an issue :)
Wow what a sound coming out from them, worth every penny at $90 each, every penny!
No I had no doubt at all considering is the same house making them both models, the reason why I'm looking at the 65B is because of the design. yes they cost almost double but the looks its what attracts me the most, and now the sound wow, for starters I don't even need the subwoofer, not sure if I ever will need it lol. Im going to look around for vids how the venture sounds, but these ones I love their looks!
EDIT: wait you said you had them for 10 years, any repairs done to them?
wow dude the Venturi are the same as the as the 65B quality sound and same quality bass, I couldn't even tell if there was much power wise difference even though the 65B is rated at 330W.... I will need to google them both and look for bunch of pictures because at this point its only about the looks and nothing else, since I don't need the subwoofer the price don't matter paying more for the 65B. But a little more picture googleing and I should be making my decision.
Someone on another forum recommended these speakers http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Powered-Book-Shelf-Speakers/dp/B005OA3BSY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445228021&sr=8-1&keywords=a5+speakers, but they are around $400 for pair, they probably are good and they are self powered, but from what I have heard BIC sounds awesome,good warranty and you just told me you have been using them for 10 years headache free, at this point BIC is a no brainer to me, and I appreciate introducing me to them and much appreciate the videos you posted :)
I liked the Logitech, but after 2 years of usage the satellites are crackling, might be just needed to glue down the speaker but who knows, they did good job and I have spent around $250 for 2 sets of Z2300 in 5-6 years time ( not including they sent me one set as a replacement because it was still under warranty, so that makes it 3 sets in 5-6 years). I think I'm ready to spend $300 for something that will last me 10 years or more and I will enjoy more music,movies and gaming.
thanks dude, don't matter now which model I choose, all I know is you posting that video after using B.I.C brand for almost 20 years, at this point don't matter which model I choose, only matters that I'm choosing the B.I.C brand. Making my choice between them both will be only which one appeals more looks wise. Thank a lot dude :)
Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.
You need something with optical out (toslink)
I don't even want to us HDMI audio
My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.
I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards, they're simply not designed for audio.
The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate DAC+amp.
He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!
Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.
You need something with optical out (toslink)
I don't even want to us HDMI audio
My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.
I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards, they're simply not designed for audio.
The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate DAC+amp.
He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!
NO, he CAN NOT..
unless he's running it on a low power PC, doesn't matter how good the sound card is, STILL noisy.
Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.
You need something with optical out (toslink)
I don't even want to us HDMI audio
My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.
I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards, they're simply not designed for audio.
The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate DAC+amp.
He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!
NO, he CAN NOT..
unless he's running it on a low power PC, doesn't matter how good the sound card is, STILL noisy.
That Yamaha receiver doesn't have a subwoofer out, only two 100W outs. I think the JBL ES20's and the Yamaha R-S201 is a reasonable combination (and you really don't need a subwoofer with good two or three way cabinets), but a pair of FH65's would be even better. The FH65's are much more sensitive, so you don't need to give as much power to get them really pumping and the clarity and dynamic range are very good.Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.
You need something with optical out (toslink)
I don't even want to us HDMI audio
My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.
I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards, they're simply not designed for audio.
The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate DAC+amp.
He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!
NO, he CAN NOT..
unless he's running it on a low power PC, doesn't matter how good the sound card is, STILL noisy.
You can't assume his rig behaves the same as yours... If the card has good shielding, good supply components and decent buffers it can give clean audio out.
Of course it's a lot easier to get a clean signal from an external DAC, especially with an electrically isolated system (optical link).
With that in mind, you'd get the best audio from a receiver that has an optical in (using a TOSLINK optical out from your soundcard) and a good internal DAC. The Yamaha doesn't seem to have this, but you can find very nice stereo receivers that do second hand for good prices.
IMHO, I think you'll be fine with RCA's from your Claro Plus+ to the Yamaha. A good amp and speakers will make the noise more noticable if it is there, though. Point is, you've already paid for a sound card with good DAC's and opamps, be shame not to make use of it.
Ok let me get this straight so I can have it little clear in my head regarding the cable connections. Lets assume that none of the bookshelf speakers come with any wires nor the subwoofer, although I would think the Sub should come with red and white RCA Cable that are attached together correct?
Im lost when it comes to this.... So here is the main question since I want to go 2.1 set up....
Step 1: Red and black wire from RIGHT speaker to red and black connection of the subwoofer RIGHT speaker section.
Step 2: Red and black wire from LEFT speaker to red and black connection of the subwoofer LEFT speaker section.
Step 3: Subwoofer "To receiver" section RCA red and black RIGHT to red and white Amplifier LINE 1? ( red-red, white-black?)
Step 4: Subwoofer "To receiver" section RCA red and black LEFT to red and white Amplifier LINE 1? ( red-red, white-black?)
Step 5: ?????????????
If I got things so far right the only thing left from the sub is the Line in, and from the amplifier the CD section which I guess it does nor concern me... then left is line 3 with REC and PB section? So WTF... then from where I connect the split RCA to 3.5mm from the Amplifier to the PC Auxilary port???? Oh men this is messed up and confusing. Makes me wanna just back out on the whole upgrade, I have looked on the internet and not 1 straight answer regarding how to hook passive speakers with amplified sub to amplifier to PC. Not 1 straight answer step by step....!!!!!!!!!!
I will post pictures of both the amplifier and the back of the subwoofer and I have few more questions.
1. L+R (white and red wire) from Amplifier to Subwoofer Amplifier Section (like in the sub picture)
2. L+R (white and red wire) from Subwoofer HI-Fi speaker section to the Speakers itself
3. From where on the Amplifier do I run the RCA-3.5mm split cable that goes to the PC sound card Aux port? There are 5 options, CD, Line 1, Line 2, Line 3 PB , Line 3 REC???? Which one? lol
Question:
The Dayton speakers are rated at 6 ohm, but I read up under Q&A at parts express that some people said Yamaha recommends 8 ohm speakers. Will this be a problem?
I will post pictures of both the amplifier and the back of the subwoofer and I have few more questions.
1. L+R (white and red wire) from Amplifier to Subwoofer Amplifier Section (like in the sub picture)
2. L+R (white and red wire) from Subwoofer HI-Fi speaker section to the Speakers itself
3. From where on the Amplifier do I run the RCA-3.5mm split cable that goes to the PC sound card Aux port? There are 5 options, CD, Line 1, Line 2, Line 3 PB , Line 3 REC???? Which one? lol
Question:
The Dayton speakers are rated at 6 ohm, but I read up under Q&A at parts express that some people said Yamaha recommends 8 ohm speakers. Will this be a problem?
Just use CD or Line 1 for the RCA jack.
I am presuming it is a Dayton Sub? There is no problem with running it inline with your speakers.
You'll be fine.
Im really leaning towards this set up after thinking little bit more about my desk space, wanted to go big with $200 BIC speakers and later down the road add the FH-12 BIC subwoofer, but now that I reconsidered desk space and keeping my hearing in decent shape I'm leaning towards this set up and gets good reviews, and the speakers sound really good after watching some youtube videos, not changing the Yamaha receiver though.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651
https://www.parts-express.com/yamaha-r-s201-stereo-receiver-100-watts-per-channel--312-208
I'm keeping faithful to whatever you guys said about the amplifier, Yamaha or nothing... you guys said even if other receivers that are small in size get good reviews they don't tend to last more than 1-2 years, so yes I rather pay more for the Yamaha and looks by the reviews the Dayton speakers get praised a lot and the 8" sub gets lots of praise too for smaller setup such Desktops or small living rooms Entertainment centers. Also Dayton gives 5 years warranty and price is not bad at all..... I know there is much better out there but this is for a desk setup and the room is the typical 12x12 room size...
If I would of gone with the BIC America big boys I might of regretted it.Yamaha recommends 8ohm speakers for the Amplifier, The Dayton are 6 ohm, will that be a problem?
Any ways if we can go back to topic, the whole connection Speakers>Subwoofer>Amplifier>PC is little confusing to me, SnowDog can you shed some light please, thanks.
Im really leaning towards this set up after thinking little bit more about my desk space, wanted to go big with $200 BIC speakers and later down the road add the FH-12 BIC subwoofer, but now that I reconsidered desk space and keeping my hearing in decent shape I'm leaning towards this set up and gets good reviews, and the speakers sound really good after watching some youtube videos, not changing the Yamaha receiver though.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651
https://www.parts-express.com/yamaha-r-s201-stereo-receiver-100-watts-per-channel--312-208
I'm keeping faithful to whatever you guys said about the amplifier, Yamaha or nothing... you guys said even if other receivers that are small in size get good reviews they don't tend to last more than 1-2 years, so yes I rather pay more for the Yamaha and looks by the reviews the Dayton speakers get praised a lot and the 8" sub gets lots of praise too for smaller setup such Desktops or small living rooms Entertainment centers. Also Dayton gives 5 years warranty and price is not bad at all..... I know there is much better out there but this is for a desk setup and the room is the typical 12x12 room size...
If I would of gone with the BIC America big boys I might of regretted it.Yamaha recommends 8ohm speakers for the Amplifier, The Dayton are 6 ohm, will that be a problem?
Any ways if we can go back to topic, the whole connection Speakers>Subwoofer>Amplifier>PC is little confusing to me, SnowDog can you shed some light please, thanks.
Okay... The Daytons are less sensitive than the FH65's and lower power rated. So they'll be quieter at a given power than the FH65s and thus need to be driven harder, but they can't handle as much. They're rated at less than half the max output of the Yamaha, so there's a much higher chance of damaging them if you (or someone else) pushes the volume a bit.
The FH65's are a better match, power-wise, to the Yamaha and are more efficient.
Cabinet / driver impedence is a very "dynamic" thing. It changes with frequency and temperature, but will be somewhere around the quoted figure most of the time. 6ohm cabinets will work fine with the Yamaha, but it may run just a tad hotter than with 8 ohm cabs.
If space really is the deciding factor for you, though, I would rather get these than the Daytons: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Speakers/Pioneer+Speakers/SP-BS22-LR
With this sub: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Speakers/Pioneer+Speakers/SW-8MK2
Better all round in terms of audio quality, similar sensitivity and power handling and not all that much more expensive. For the sub connections, you hook them in parallel to the speakers. So speaker out from the Yamaha goes to the speaker and sub for both channels.
If your budget is really limited then the Daytons are fine, but if you can afford it I'd go for the Pioneers or even better, the FH65's. With the FH65's I really don't think you'd even need the sub, either.
Establishing credentials for being qualified to advise:MoreI actually run a slightly overpowered system for my music... A fEARful 15/6/1 with Eminence 3015LF, eighteensound 6ND410 mid, XD125 horn and my own design crossovers, driven by a Crown XLS1500. Busy building the second for stereo. Originally built for my bass guitar, but with the intention of being able to play full-range content and it does it beautifully. Also designed and built my own tube preamp for it, using 6SL7 tubes.
Anyways I went and purchased the Yamaha & the BIC FH-65
Anyways I went and purchased the Yamaha & the BIC FH-65
Awesome!
Anyways I went and purchased the Yamaha & the BIC FH-65
Awesome!
+1. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Should also be nice and easy to set up. A good, accurate setup like this, from a good sound card with nice DACs and opamps really makes a difference to how you experience audio. With lossless audio source files you can hear EVERYTHING.
The JBL LSR line is quite good. It is a lot better than any other setup in its price range that I have heard.
I use a pair of LSR305 matched with a LSR310S. Highly recommended. ^-^
Ive found the best thing you can do for PC sound is to forget it has onboard sound entirely (And definitely don't get an aftermarket soundcard) and get a USB DAC. This only works for 2.1 but if thats all you need then a decent USB DAC/Amp is the way to go.
I have never seen a soundcard since the end of the PCI days that managed to isolate itself enough from the rest of the PC's power to not hear a hum in the background when using analogue out. The hum will usually rise and fall with the soundcards power draw.
If you need 5.1/7.1 then the optical out should be fine, it comes close to bypassing the card entirely and uses the DAC on the amp.
Pretty much what using a digital out from your soundcard would do, except it completely eliminates the need for built in sound, you could disable it in bios and remove the driver.
In either setup you would be using an external DAC (Digital to Analogue Converter) instead of relying on the soundcard itself to do that, which is where it usually picks up interference from your other components.
Its possible it has all been bad luck though. Its easy enough to test, run a graphic intensive test/game with its sound off and listen close to the speakers/headphones with it cranked up, if you hear pure silence then your fine, if you hear background noise that rises and lowers with the graphical load then you probably want to use a external DAC.
I don't remember this happening for my old PCI cards, but I don't know if it was because something about that interface was better for soundcards, or if it was because it was the only thing using it, since Video was AGP.
Pretty much what using a digital out from your soundcard would do, except it completely eliminates the need for built in sound, you could disable it in bios and remove the driver.
In either setup you would be using an external DAC (Digital to Analogue Converter) instead of relying on the soundcard itself to do that, which is where it usually picks up interference from your other components.
Its possible it has all been bad luck though. Its easy enough to test, run a graphic intensive test/game with its sound off and listen close to the speakers/headphones with it cranked up, if you hear pure silence then your fine, if you hear background noise that rises and lowers with the graphical load then you probably want to use a external DAC.
I don't remember this happening for my old PCI cards, but I don't know if it was because something about that interface was better for soundcards, or if it was because it was the only thing using it, since Video was AGP.
seems that you have better knowledge than I do when it comes to sound peripherals, Before I build my first PC I had bought a PC from a website where they put them together for you and I noticed that specially in game the onboard sound sometimes tend to be glitch and sort of mess up with the game experience. So after I sold that PC and I ended up building my own I decided to go with whatever SC has best reviews and recommendations.
Turned out that the HT|Omega Claro + had the most and the best reviews from all brands out there, yes even put ASUS high end cards to shame, on top of it for my luck it was on sale while I was researching so it went from 200 to 100 for period of time for 24 hrs, so I bought it. I have never experienced any problems with it, here is the link of the SC http://www.htomega.com/claroplus.html, read up the specs and tell me what you think in genereal about it, another sale for me on that card that it used only Japanese capacitors.
I will do the test that you said, but problem is it turned out that the Yamaha amplifier is on its way and the speakers are on back order... bummer... I will give them a week and see if they can get them in stock, if not ill cancel the order, get them from else where and then I can do the testing. Shame I already received the spool wire, the RCA to 3.5mm Y cable, Yami is on its way but speakers are on back order.... and their site said they had more then 10 in stock...
Pretty much what using a digital out from your soundcard would do, except it completely eliminates the need for built in sound, you could disable it in bios and remove the driver.
In either setup you would be using an external DAC (Digital to Analogue Converter) instead of relying on the soundcard itself to do that, which is where it usually picks up interference from your other components.
Its possible it has all been bad luck though. Its easy enough to test, run a graphic intensive test/game with its sound off and listen close to the speakers/headphones with it cranked up, if you hear pure silence then your fine, if you hear background noise that rises and lowers with the graphical load then you probably want to use a external DAC.
I don't remember this happening for my old PCI cards, but I don't know if it was because something about that interface was better for soundcards, or if it was because it was the only thing using it, since Video was AGP.
seems that you have better knowledge than I do when it comes to sound peripherals, Before I build my first PC I had bought a PC from a website where they put them together for you and I noticed that specially in game the onboard sound sometimes tend to be glitch and sort of mess up with the game experience. So after I sold that PC and I ended up building my own I decided to go with whatever SC has best reviews and recommendations.
Turned out that the HT|Omega Claro + had the most and the best reviews from all brands out there, yes even put ASUS high end cards to shame, on top of it for my luck it was on sale while I was researching so it went from 200 to 100 for period of time for 24 hrs, so I bought it. I have never experienced any problems with it, here is the link of the SC http://www.htomega.com/claroplus.html, read up the specs and tell me what you think in genereal about it, another sale for me on that card that it used only Japanese capacitors.
I will do the test that you said, but problem is it turned out that the Yamaha amplifier is on its way and the speakers are on back order... bummer... I will give them a week and see if they can get them in stock, if not ill cancel the order, get them from else where and then I can do the testing. Shame I already received the spool wire, the RCA to 3.5mm Y cable, Yami is on its way but speakers are on back order.... and their site said they had more then 10 in stock...
Hang in there! You'll be just fine as long as you stick with your plan.
Ok so I received everything and everything is set up, love the way it sounds, way wayyyyy better than the Logitech Z2300 I had before. It will take a while till I break in the speakers cause I don't have much time to use them but considering how they sound from the get go, I'm impressed. I actually got a chance the weekend to play them back to back at best buy pinning them against $500 PSB,Klipsch and NHT bookshelf speakers and they were on par, I noticed no difference in sound quality. The only difference is that the BIC is $300 cheaper and offers 3-4 years longer warranty vs the Klipsch, PSB and NHT....
Here is a picture where one is with the cover and the other one is without, as far as size goes use your imagination, PS the monitor in between the speakers is 27" lol
I paid good bucks for that sound card so I don't have to use the mobo sound card. So far this is what looks to be on my list and if I'm missing anything that I need to include on the order please let me know, would hate to have to run to Best Buy as last minute notice....
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011
Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
RCA to 3.5mm split cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
As far as the speaker sound quality goes, I saw a video of the MAudio compared to the JBL, and while the MAudio being triple the price more than the JBL the difference was minimal in quality, but I think big role for me plays the overall look of the JBL components.
Your speaker links don't work. I am supposing you are saying the JBL ES-20 bookshelf speakers with the JBL ES150PBK subwoofer. And my suggestion was the BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB with the V1020 or V1220 subwoofer.
Let's see: JBL ES-20's are 104.95 for the pair
BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB are 131.73 for the pair.
Subwoofer: JBL ES150PBK subwoofer is 139.95 with a 10" woofer
BIC V1020 is 163.09 with a 10" woofer.
So the price difference is $244.90 for the JBL speaker system and $294.82 for the Venturi system.
Difference: $49.92
Almost $50 price difference. The Venturi system is about $50 more, but infinitely better sounding.
What's even nicer is the fact that you can get the bookshelf speakers standalone, and they sound astounding on their own. The subwoofer can come later! I am that serious!
Of course if aesthetics are what you decided on, you have already made your choice.
Edit: You might find a better deal if you look around.
The Venturis outperform most speakers costing more than double the price. But this is my opinion, and you can look at reviews and audiophile sites all over the internet, and decide for yourself.
If I didn't believe in the Venturi's I wouldn't recommend them! Especially with a 7-year warranty!
I paid good bucks for that sound card so I don't have to use the mobo sound card. So far this is what looks to be on my list and if I'm missing anything that I need to include on the order please let me know, would hate to have to run to Best Buy as last minute notice....
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011
Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
RCA to 3.5mm split cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
As far as the speaker sound quality goes, I saw a video of the MAudio compared to the JBL, and while the MAudio being triple the price more than the JBL the difference was minimal in quality, but I think big role for me plays the overall look of the JBL components.
Your speaker links don't work. I am supposing you are saying the JBL ES-20 bookshelf speakers with the JBL ES150PBK subwoofer. And my suggestion was the BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB with the V1020 or V1220 subwoofer.
Let's see: JBL ES-20's are 104.95 for the pair
BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB are 131.73 for the pair.
Subwoofer: JBL ES150PBK subwoofer is 139.95 with a 10" woofer
BIC V1020 is 163.09 with a 10" woofer.
So the price difference is $244.90 for the JBL speaker system and $294.82 for the Venturi system.
Difference: $49.92
Almost $50 price difference. The Venturi system is about $50 more, but infinitely better sounding.
What's even nicer is the fact that you can get the bookshelf speakers standalone, and they sound astounding on their own. The subwoofer can come later! I am that serious!
Of course if aesthetics are what you decided on, you have already made your choice.
Edit: You might find a better deal if you look around.
The Venturis outperform most speakers costing more than double the price. But this is my opinion, and you can look at reviews and audiophile sites all over the internet, and decide for yourself.
If I didn't believe in the Venturi's I wouldn't recommend them! Especially with a 7-year warranty!
forgive me.. I am a total noob at this. I bought the venturi speakers you recommended but now I don't know how I'm supposed to connect it to my computer. Do I need to buy an amplifier just to be able to use them? What cables do I need to get started?
forgive me.. I am a total noob at this. I bought the venturi speakers you recommended but now I don't know how I'm supposed to connect it to my computer. Do I need to buy an amplifier just to be able to use them? What cables do I need to get started?
forgive me.. I am a total noob at this. I bought the venturi speakers you recommended but now I don't know how I'm supposed to connect it to my computer. Do I need to buy an amplifier just to be able to use them? What cables do I need to get started?
Yes you will need a separate amplifier for the speakers. You could find a nice amplifier used as Badwrench suggested, or get a new amplifier. I'd still recommend a Yamaha, but there are a wide variety of used amplifiers that will do the job nicely. (Like the Pioneer in the list...)
Heck, you can even go to the Goodwill or Salvation Army (or any thrift store), and find a good deal on an amplifier. If you do this, ask about their return policy. Most thrift shops give you a 7 day exchange.
You will also need a 3.5 mm stereo jack to RCA adapter. That will go from your computer to your amplifier.
That's about it.
I paid good bucks for that sound card so I don't have to use the mobo sound card. So far this is what looks to be on my list and if I'm missing anything that I need to include on the order please let me know, would hate to have to run to Best Buy as last minute notice....
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011
Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
RCA to 3.5mm split cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
As far as the speaker sound quality goes, I saw a video of the MAudio compared to the JBL, and while the MAudio being triple the price more than the JBL the difference was minimal in quality, but I think big role for me plays the overall look of the JBL components.
Your speaker links don't work. I am supposing you are saying the JBL ES-20 bookshelf speakers with the JBL ES150PBK subwoofer. And my suggestion was the BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB with the V1020 or V1220 subwoofer.
Let's see: JBL ES-20's are 104.95 for the pair
BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB are 131.73 for the pair.
Subwoofer: JBL ES150PBK subwoofer is 139.95 with a 10" woofer
BIC V1020 is 163.09 with a 10" woofer.
So the price difference is $244.90 for the JBL speaker system and $294.82 for the Venturi system.
Difference: $49.92
Almost $50 price difference. The Venturi system is about $50 more, but infinitely better sounding.
What's even nicer is the fact that you can get the bookshelf speakers standalone, and they sound astounding on their own. The subwoofer can come later! I am that serious!
Of course if aesthetics are what you decided on, you have already made your choice.
Edit: You might find a better deal if you look around.
The Venturis outperform most speakers costing more than double the price. But this is my opinion, and you can look at reviews and audiophile sites all over the internet, and decide for yourself.
If I didn't believe in the Venturi's I wouldn't recommend them! Especially with a 7-year warranty!
forgive me.. I am a total noob at this. I bought the venturi speakers you recommended but now I don't know how I'm supposed to connect it to my computer. Do I need to buy an amplifier just to be able to use them? What cables do I need to get started?
Yeah, you will need an amplifier to run them. You could go cheap with a Lepai 2020A+ (http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447125213&sr=8-2&keywords=amplifier), or for a full home audio receiver/amp. Check CL for receivers. There are ton of people letting go of their non-HDMI units for cheap. Note that the Lepai will not allow you to add a sub in the future as it is only 2 channel.
Quick scan of your area:
$20 Pioneer VSX511 (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/ele/5296861841.html) - actually a very good receiver and a smoking deal @ $20.
$50 Yamaha HTR-5100 (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ele/5290950189.html) - older unit, but still very solid.
$40 Sony STR-DE345 (http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/ele/5306289584.html) - also older, but very good for a basic 2.1 system with plenty of power.
forgive me.. I am a total noob at this. I bought the venturi speakers you recommended but now I don't know how I'm supposed to connect it to my computer. Do I need to buy an amplifier just to be able to use them? What cables do I need to get started?
Yes you will need a separate amplifier for the speakers. You could find a nice amplifier used as Badwrench suggested, or get a new amplifier. I'd still recommend a Yamaha, but there are a wide variety of used amplifiers that will do the job nicely. (Like the Pioneer in the list...)
Heck, you can even go to the Goodwill or Salvation Army (or any thrift store), and find a good deal on an amplifier. If you do this, ask about their return policy. Most thrift shops give you a 7 day exchange.
You will also need a 3.5 mm stereo jack to RCA adapter. That will go from your computer to your amplifier.
That's about it.
I paid good bucks for that sound card so I don't have to use the mobo sound card. So far this is what looks to be on my list and if I'm missing anything that I need to include on the order please let me know, would hate to have to run to Best Buy as last minute notice....
Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011
Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
RCA to 3.5mm split cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
As far as the speaker sound quality goes, I saw a video of the MAudio compared to the JBL, and while the MAudio being triple the price more than the JBL the difference was minimal in quality, but I think big role for me plays the overall look of the JBL components.
Your speaker links don't work. I am supposing you are saying the JBL ES-20 bookshelf speakers with the JBL ES150PBK subwoofer. And my suggestion was the BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB with the V1020 or V1220 subwoofer.
Let's see: JBL ES-20's are 104.95 for the pair
BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB are 131.73 for the pair.
Subwoofer: JBL ES150PBK subwoofer is 139.95 with a 10" woofer
BIC V1020 is 163.09 with a 10" woofer.
So the price difference is $244.90 for the JBL speaker system and $294.82 for the Venturi system.
Difference: $49.92
Almost $50 price difference. The Venturi system is about $50 more, but infinitely better sounding.
What's even nicer is the fact that you can get the bookshelf speakers standalone, and they sound astounding on their own. The subwoofer can come later! I am that serious!
Of course if aesthetics are what you decided on, you have already made your choice.
Edit: You might find a better deal if you look around.
The Venturis outperform most speakers costing more than double the price. But this is my opinion, and you can look at reviews and audiophile sites all over the internet, and decide for yourself.
If I didn't believe in the Venturi's I wouldn't recommend them! Especially with a 7-year warranty!
forgive me.. I am a total noob at this. I bought the venturi speakers you recommended but now I don't know how I'm supposed to connect it to my computer. Do I need to buy an amplifier just to be able to use them? What cables do I need to get started?
I'm just getting into speakers in general, I have a pair of HD598s that I usually use for music :) How much would you suggest me saving up before looking into buying a new amplifier? Are there general brands that I could look for in thrift shops (Pioneer or otherwise)?
I got the 3.5 mm to RCA and some speaker wire so I think I'm set for now! Just have to see about upgrading the amp when I try out the lepai 2020a+
I'm just getting into speakers in general, I have a pair of HD598s that I usually use for music :) How much would you suggest me saving up before looking into buying a new amplifier? Are there general brands that I could look for in thrift shops (Pioneer or otherwise)?
I got the 3.5 mm to RCA and some speaker wire so I think I'm set for now! Just have to see about upgrading the amp when I try out the lepai 2020a+
Well, if you are going new, you can figure to spend from around $100+ on up! It really depends on what you're getting.
However, if you do find one second-hand, you could probably find something from around $20 to $60 or so. If you stick with a good name-brand amplifier, you should be just fine.
Yamaha, Sony, JVC, Technics, Denon, Kenwood, Pioneer, Marantz, MCS Series, etc etc.... There are quite a few and the main thing you want to be sure of is that it works!
There are quite a few "outdated" amplifiers that actually outperform a lot of new amplifiers.
I'm just getting into speakers in general, I have a pair of HD598s that I usually use for music :) How much would you suggest me saving up before looking into buying a new amplifier? Are there general brands that I could look for in thrift shops (Pioneer or otherwise)?
I got the 3.5 mm to RCA and some speaker wire so I think I'm set for now! Just have to see about upgrading the amp when I try out the lepai 2020a+
Well, if you are going new, you can figure to spend from around $100+ on up! It really depends on what you're getting.
However, if you do find one second-hand, you could probably find something from around $20 to $60 or so. If you stick with a good name-brand amplifier, you should be just fine.
Yamaha, Sony, JVC, Technics, Denon, Kenwood, Pioneer, Marantz, MCS Series, etc etc.... There are quite a few and the main thing you want to be sure of is that it works!
There are quite a few "outdated" amplifiers that actually outperform a lot of new amplifiers.
sorry to be derailing the thread to ask my own questions.. If this is not okay, let me know and I can take it to PMs.
I found these on craigslist. Would they be good options?
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5304664450.html
Technics SA-EX140
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5301402477.html
Denon AVR810
Both of those are a bit on the old side. I would try to find something with optical in so that you can run a single optical cable and get true separation.
This is a killer receiver - it can even do a second zone. Denon AVR-2805 for $50 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5306404776.html)
This is also a great one: Yamaha Rx-V657 for $45 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5304766253.html)
I am in Vista if you want to hear the difference between the 2 setups (I have the lepai in the garage with some 5" bookshelf speakers and a sony receiver with digital in to some 5.5" bookshelf speakers and an 8" energy sub).
Oh, missed that on the denon, was a quickie search. On the Sony, he said to bring a converter as he cant t plug it in at home. Not sure why, but still pretty easy to test if you meet at starbucks or some place similar. I was just doing a search for a max of $50 and looking for the units that support optical input.Both of those are a bit on the old side. I would try to find something with optical in so that you can run a single optical cable and get true separation.
This is a killer receiver - it can even do a second zone. Denon AVR-2805 for $50 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5306404776.html)
This is also a great one: Yamaha Rx-V657 for $45 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5304766253.html)
I am in Vista if you want to hear the difference between the 2 setups (I have the lepai in the garage with some 5" bookshelf speakers and a sony receiver with digital in to some 5.5" bookshelf speakers and an 8" energy sub).
The Denon AVR listing might say $50 but the seller is actually asking $125 for it.
The Yamaha says they cannot test? What? Maybe there is something broken on that one.
Both of those are a bit on the old side. I would try to find something with optical in so that you can run a single optical cable and get true separation.
This is a killer receiver - it can even do a second zone. Denon AVR-2805 for $50 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5306404776.html)
This is also a great one: Yamaha Rx-V657 for $45 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5304766253.html)
I am in Vista if you want to hear the difference between the 2 setups (I have the lepai in the garage with some 5" bookshelf speakers and a sony receiver with digital in to some 5.5" bookshelf speakers and an 8" energy sub).
The Denon AVR listing might say $50 but the seller is actually asking $125 for it.
The Yamaha says they cannot test? What? Maybe there is something broken on that one.
I'm just getting into speakers in general, I have a pair of HD598s that I usually use for music :) How much would you suggest me saving up before looking into buying a new amplifier? Are there general brands that I could look for in thrift shops (Pioneer or otherwise)?
I got the 3.5 mm to RCA and some speaker wire so I think I'm set for now! Just have to see about upgrading the amp when I try out the lepai 2020a+
Well, if you are going new, you can figure to spend from around $100+ on up! It really depends on what you're getting.
However, if you do find one second-hand, you could probably find something from around $20 to $60 or so. If you stick with a good name-brand amplifier, you should be just fine.
Yamaha, Sony, JVC, Technics, Denon, Kenwood, Pioneer, Marantz, MCS Series, etc etc.... There are quite a few and the main thing you want to be sure of is that it works!
There are quite a few "outdated" amplifiers that actually outperform a lot of new amplifiers.
sorry to be derailing the thread to ask my own questions.. If this is not okay, let me know and I can take it to PMs.
I found these on craigslist. Would they be good options?
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5304664450.html
Technics SA-EX140
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5301402477.html
Denon AVR810
Both of those are a bit on the old side. I would try to find something with optical in so that you can run a single optical cable and get true separation.
This is a killer receiver - it can even do a second zone. Denon AVR-2805 for $50 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5306404776.html)
This is also a great one: Yamaha Rx-V657 for $45 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5304766253.html)
I am in Vista if you want to hear the difference between the 2 setups (I have the lepai in the garage with some 5" bookshelf speakers and a sony receiver with digital in to some 5.5" bookshelf speakers and an 8" energy sub).
I'm just getting into speakers in general, I have a pair of HD598s that I usually use for music :) How much would you suggest me saving up before looking into buying a new amplifier? Are there general brands that I could look for in thrift shops (Pioneer or otherwise)?
I got the 3.5 mm to RCA and some speaker wire so I think I'm set for now! Just have to see about upgrading the amp when I try out the lepai 2020a+
Well, if you are going new, you can figure to spend from around $100+ on up! It really depends on what you're getting.
However, if you do find one second-hand, you could probably find something from around $20 to $60 or so. If you stick with a good name-brand amplifier, you should be just fine.
Yamaha, Sony, JVC, Technics, Denon, Kenwood, Pioneer, Marantz, MCS Series, etc etc.... There are quite a few and the main thing you want to be sure of is that it works!
There are quite a few "outdated" amplifiers that actually outperform a lot of new amplifiers.
sorry to be derailing the thread to ask my own questions.. If this is not okay, let me know and I can take it to PMs.
I found these on craigslist. Would they be good options?
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5304664450.html
Technics SA-EX140
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5301402477.html
Denon AVR810
Both of those are a bit on the old side. I would try to find something with optical in so that you can run a single optical cable and get true separation.
This is a killer receiver - it can even do a second zone. Denon AVR-2805 for $50 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5306404776.html)
This is also a great one: Yamaha Rx-V657 for $45 (https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/5304766253.html)
I am in Vista if you want to hear the difference between the 2 setups (I have the lepai in the garage with some 5" bookshelf speakers and a sony receiver with digital in to some 5.5" bookshelf speakers and an 8" energy sub).
oh whatt
I didn't know there were mech users so close to where I live. It seems like they are usually closer to the LA area. I got the lepai coming in on thursday so I can test it out but yeah I'd be down to see what your set up is. How much did your sony receiver set up cost including the speakers and sub?