[GB] LZ CLS (Classic TKL) : Finished

[mech0nly]

Looking forward for next GB and RIP wallet

[rustywok]

I have a sneaking suspicion I just decided on my next two board buys. To have the complete CLS series would be something.
This has been my first custom board GB. I'm in maybe 4 or 5 other GBs and this is the only one that even came close to the original timeline. I've been in jobs much like what running a GB must be like. A million details, a dozen different people wanting your ear. And it never really changes. Ever. It's a sort of controlled anarchy, this creative stuff. Thanks LZ! I've been taking photos of a mockup with the LZ-CLS and some keysets of mine before I have to pack everything up for the next month.

[Fnzzy]

Looks like you need to refill your wallets FAST since those boards are all supposed to come this year.

[kconfire]

LZ-CLS is one of the two GBs I participated in (and I would rather not disclose the name of the other GB. ) and it looks like it would be delivered much sooner than the other one I participated and dropped out because the another one was just taking forever.
I noticed in the photos of those whom have received their LZ-CLS and they look stunning, just like what I expected from the initial hype!

Also, I am a die-hard fan of HHKB layout, or 60%, so to speak, and will definitely participate in CLSs.
I am just glad that the next CLS series in the line is not the CLSs because I would really like to take a little break before dumping money on keyboards I love again. <3

If LZ CLSs GB is to start after November, that would be perfect and I will be ready to grab a few in different colors now that I've seen how amazing all these colors look.
Maybe if we have colors in addition to Silver, Gray, and Black, like Red in LZ-ST, and other one or two exotic colors, that would be even better, too!

Thanks LZ for all of your efforts, and I look forward to buy more of your master pieces in the years to come!
Appreciate the update and I love how you have the road map for your plans- it helps all of us to plan better and what kind of food we will be eating for the next few months 

[CMYK]

Dear members of GeekHack,

Thanks all for joining the Group Buy for the LZ-CLS.

Before I start, I would like to inform everyone that I do not speak English as well as I do in Korean, and that I have been relying on Google Translator for the most part of translations.
It is my hope that I have been conveying my meaning and thoughts to you appropriately and that I was communicative throughout the different stages of the Group Buy.

To begin, I have run a number of Group Buys in the past but this particular Group Buy has proven to be the most challenging one as of yet.

I was a sole person responsible for running the Group Buy making critical decisions- but unfortunately met with some roadblocks such as drastic personal work load increase, and an issue with my PayPal account to list a few.

As for the PayPal issue, my account was put on hold due to a sudden increase of PayPal balance, and is still on hold as I speak.

Therefore, I had to find an additional monetary resource which delayed the timeline for this Group Buy.

Aside from an issue with PayPal, I also ran into a problem with the color Gray as sample tests I have run with the color all failed to meet my standards.  Purchasing a new color for the Gray further delayed the timeline for this Group Buy on top of the PayPal issue.

My sincere apologies to everyone who participated in this Group Buy for any inconvenience the delay may have caused.

To make up for the time lost with unexpected issues during the Group Buy timeline, I wanted to give extra attention to details- I included a cloth with my logo and replaced boxes with a keyboard bag in spite of additional cost involved in bundling them as parts of the LZ-CLS.  I really tried best in my ability to provide you with a most complete package for the LZ-CLS, and I hope you will find your LZ-CLS package to be well-thought out and planned.  However, lots of options can be confusing- if you have any missing parts on your order, please send me a PM for an assistance.

I lost some of my credibility with an incident unintentionally a while ago, but I am doing my best to regain your trust.  I really appreciate all of you who believed in me and helped me with a positive energy.

Going back to the LZ-CLS, it is a TKL layout I have not introduced since LZ-FE.

My next project will be CLSm which will support 75% layout, and it will be the 2nd series of CLS.
Following CLSm, my 3rd project with CLS series will be CLSs which will support 60% layout.  And yes, you will see a support for HHKB as well.

Before I close, I want to disclose that I am directly involved with every aspect of the Group Buy and have been getting supports from my wife and my brother as well as KIN.
Thank you all for reading.

P.S – Please excuse minor scratches and dents.
I will continue to put my efforts to provide you with higher standards.
Made in KOREA

I'm happy for those that are satisfied, but Is there no way to fix any of these issues?  I feel like the CLS doesn't compare to your previous boards like the Finale, and RE that I have seen in person.  As it is right now, I wish I never joined the GB.

[kokokoy]

Dear members of GeekHack,

Thanks all for joining the Group Buy for the LZ-CLS.

My sincere apologies to everyone who participated in this Group Buy for any inconvenience the delay may have caused.

On my end don't think there were a need for an apology but appreciate it. Sorry to hear the issues you had on this but as far as me being a participant, this was a very smooth GB.

The grey is stunning btw.

Anyway thanks again LZ.

[Elrick]

I'm happy for those that are satisfied, but Is there no way to fix any of these issues?  I feel like the CLS doesn't compare to your previous boards like the Finale, and RE that I have seen in person.  As it is right now, I wish I never joined the GB.

So you've already received the CLS in person?

Please show us via pictures that proves your point with this discussion.

[renzpwns]

Love seeing more 75% GBs. Most likely in on this one. 

[digi]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

[Goon]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

I got one ding on it isnt as bad as yours though.

[Puddsy]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

That looks like adhesive residue, not an anodizing defect. Might be the picture, but have you tried rubbing it off?

I'm happy for those that are satisfied, but Is there no way to fix any of these issues?  I feel like the CLS doesn't compare to your previous boards like the Finale, and RE that I have seen in person.  As it is right now, I wish I never joined the GB.

So you've already received the CLS in person?

Please show us via pictures that proves your point with this discussion.

Agreed. Please back up your point with pictures.

EVERY GB is gonna have a few boards with slight defects. ****, even 356CL had some issues (you ever looked at the bottom of one?), DGEs are infamous for the messed up anodizing on the sides.

From what I've seen of everyone's pictures, the boards are all free of major defects you'll see in day-to-day use. A ding or defect on the back or bottom is nothing to get ultra worried about.

I think people have just become more cognizant of this problem because of the mech27 and x60. Anyone remember how LZ used to ship boards? Remember all those SEs (or was it GH?) with the obliterated corners?

Not that you shouldn't get upset with issues, but I think people are overreacting a bit to incredibly minor defects.

[ricyuyc]

I received mind couple days ago but just no time to unpack and check until this evening.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The kit is really awesome and I love it so much, the tone differences of grey arn't hard to be noticed however,
also the edges finishing of the switch plate could be done better.

[digi]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

That looks like adhesive residue, not an anodizing defect. Might be the picture, but have you tried rubbing it off?

I pm'd LifeZ about it, he said to try some WD40 to wipe it off. I let it soak for a few minutes and gave it a pretty firm rub with some blue shop paper towels but it won't come off. I'm scared to try anything more drastic in fear of scratching it..

I might try some Goo Gone and see if I get better results. I'll report back.

[CommonCurt]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

Awe yeah, that sucks.

I have like a slight weird anodization spot above where the Pause/Break key goes. It's not a scratch/dent. The color is just lighter, and it's only visible in certain light, and angle.


And then this. Which looks to be around the same spot as yours.  Again, only visible in certain light, and angle.  I didn't notice it until I pulled the flashlight out.
I don't feel them when I run my nail over them. So I don't think they are scratches.

[Dreamre]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

That looks like adhesive residue, not an anodizing defect. Might be the picture, but have you tried rubbing it off?

I pm'd LifeZ about it, he said to try some WD40 to wipe it off. I let it soak for a few minutes and gave it a pretty firm rub with some blue shop paper towels but it won't come off. I'm scared to try anything more drastic in fear of scratching it..

I might try some Goo Gone and see if I get better results. I'll report back.

Do NOT use oven cleaner...it'll strip the colour! If light chemicals do not remove it, I would suggest against using anything abrasive.

[digi]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

Awe yeah, that sucks.

I have like a slight weird anodization spot above where the Pause/Break key goes. It's not a scratch/dent. The color is just lighter, and it's only visible in certain light, and angle.

Show Image

And then this. Which looks to be around the same spot as yours.  Again, only visible in certain light, and angle.  I didn't notice it until I pulled the flashlight out.
I don't feel them when I run my nail over them. So I don't think they are scratches.

Show Image

Odd, we have it exactly in the same place. I wonder what it's from? Did you get yours off yet? I'm going to try an eraser (as advised from LZ) or Goo Gone when I get home this evening.

[CommonCurt]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

Awe yeah, that sucks.

I have like a slight weird anodization spot above where the Pause/Break key goes. It's not a scratch/dent. The color is just lighter, and it's only visible in certain light, and angle.

Show Image

And then this. Which looks to be around the same spot as yours.  Again, only visible in certain light, and angle.  I didn't notice it until I pulled the flashlight out.
I don't feel them when I run my nail over them. So I don't think they are scratches.

Show Image

Odd, we have it exactly in the same place. I wonder what it's from? Did you get yours off yet? I'm going to try an eraser (as advised from LZ) or Goo Gone when I get home this evening.

I've only tried to wipe it off. Might try the eraser idea.

[yicaoyimu]

Going back to the LZ-CLS, it is a TKL layout I have not introduced since LZ-FE.

Hmm.. Pretty sure LZ Iron man and LZ-RE are both TKL that came after FE.

I lost some of my credibility with an incident unintentionally a while ago

You mean getting banned from GH for working with Druger? I don't think any reasonable people could blame you for what he did.

[Fnzzy]

Okay I am done with my build but I am running into a couple of issues with the programming. JigOn doesn't want to connect to my board and while trying to flash the firmware I keep getting the communication error regardless of which USB port I am using. Can anyone help me out?

Edit: I am also getting the windows error "USB device not recognised" and I have to re-plug it like 10 times to get it recognised.

Edit 2: Seems like the USB device error was a thing with my USB hub only. I also managed to program the board on a laptop with a resolution that was too small for JigOn Hope I don't need to make any changes soon.

[avid]

Gray and black are slightly different color up and down.
Gray made a new color purchase.
But it is not perfect. I am so worried about whether to exclude the gray color in the next GB. stress...HAaaaaaa

I really hope grey is offered in the future. Please don't exclude grey since it's a gorgeous colors. Very happy with mine. Yes, it has small difference, but i would still get the same color again.

[digi]

Gray and black are slightly different color up and down.
Gray made a new color purchase.
But it is not perfect. I am so worried about whether to exclude the gray color in the next GB. stress...HAaaaaaa

I really hope grey is offered in the future. Please don't exclude grey since it's a gorgeous colors. Very happy with mine. Yes, it has small difference, but i would still get the same color again.

I agree. I just want to get this damn smudge off and I'll be 100% happy with it!

[aaron6301]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

Awe yeah, that sucks.

I have like a slight weird anodization spot above where the Pause/Break key goes. It's not a scratch/dent. The color is just lighter, and it's only visible in certain light, and angle.

Show Image

And then this. Which looks to be around the same spot as yours.  Again, only visible in certain light, and angle.  I didn't notice it until I pulled the flashlight out.
I don't feel them when I run my nail over them. So I don't think they are scratches.

Show Image

Odd, we have it exactly in the same place. I wonder what it's from? Did you get yours off yet? I'm going to try an eraser (as advised from LZ) or Goo Gone when I get home this evening.

I've only tried to wipe it off. Might try the eraser idea.

You could try using https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4. I've used it on some of my more expensive 1911's with great success for surface marks such as brass kisses.

[Puddsy]

Gray and black are slightly different color up and down.
Gray made a new color purchase.
But it is not perfect. I am so worried about whether to exclude the gray color in the next GB. stress...HAaaaaaa

I really hope grey is offered in the future. Please don't exclude grey since it's a gorgeous colors. Very happy with mine. Yes, it has small difference, but i would still get the same color again.

I agree. I just want to get this damn smudge off and I'll be 100% happy with it!

LZ actually makes a decent point here.

Dark grey is a VERY hard color to get right consistently. I'd rather he take the eungsam (OTD) approach, and offer silver, black, and one or two other colors (i.e. pink and blue).

[avid]

Out of curiosity, why is dark grey harder then other colors?

[Puddsy]

Out of curiosity, why is dark grey harder then other colors?

I'll give the quick explanation. I'm also not an expert, so please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

Basically certain alloys of aluminum take anodization better than other alloys. 6061, the kind (most likely, LZ hasn't said what alloy he used) used in this GB is a "NON-AQ" alloy. Non-AQ is the AAC (Aluminum Anodizers Council, learn more at http://www.anodizing.org/?) designation for alloys that aren't good at taking anodization.

More info about which alloys are good for what:



The thing that makes dark grey hard specifically, is that to get it right, you basically have to anodize the object black, but not too black. It stresses the aluminum out, and can cause discoloration.

Now, you might be wondering, "Puddsy, why doesn't every GB run in 6063?" Well, funny you should ask that. MIRA SE (I was confused with the OMIRA, the Chinese one, but the principle still applies) is being run in 6063, but if you look at the lunar grey color (Dark grey with a green hue), you'll see that it's not perfectly dark grey. Every alloy adds a bit of a hue from the non-aluminum metals that are mixed in. 6061 adds a dark grey hue. 6063 adds a green hue. Also, because 6063 is an AQ-type, it's more expensive than 6061, so the overhead costs are smaller.

Hopefully that makes some semblance of sense. 

[avid]

Great explanation! Very informative.

So that explains why we see different shades of colors such as blue-grey, green-grey etc.

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

[Puddsy]

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

1) I'm actually incorrect, I got a very nice PM about it. It's not because of stresses on the metal, it's because it's a "chaotic electrobonding process," and there's no "canned" grey color like with cerakote. You're basically forcing the aluminum to be dark grey, and inconsistencies just show up more often in that color.

Cerakote would be a better way of getting boards the color we want. There are more color options, it's more durable, it's more consistent, and it's cheaper. They have free samples in the US on their website, if you're interested

2) Neither did I, but here we are.

[LifeZ]

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

1) I'm actually incorrect, I got a very nice PM about it. It's not because of stresses on the metal, it's because it's a "chaotic electrobonding process," and there's no "canned" grey color like with cerakote. You're basically forcing the aluminum to be dark grey, and inconsistencies just show up more often in that color.

Cerakote would be a better way of getting boards the color we want. There are more color options, it's more durable, it's more consistent, and it's cheaper. They have free samples in the US on their website, if you're interested

2) Neither did I, but here we are.

That's right,
I am always stressed by anodizing
All moderators will be the same.   

[LifeZ]

Hello all,

I received a number of PMs regarding several issues.

I just wanted to say that not everyone will have a same set of standards, and there may be areas where I might have missed.

I will determine an extent as to what will be considered normal, and what will be considered not normal, or defective.

I will address issues and provide replacements in some cases as needed, but please understand that the availability of replacement parts is very limited as I only have a handful of Top & Bottom cases.

I can and will try my best to fix defective parts if you would like, but I cannot guarantee the result is going to be perfect.

For a few cases, I will process a partial refund or a full refund, and I will stay on GeekHack.

Thanks all 

[Puddsy]

Hello all,

I received a number of PMs regarding several issues.

I just wanted to say that not everyone will have a same set of standards, and there may be areas where I might have missed.

I will determine an extent as to what will be considered normal, and what will be considered not normal, or defective.

I will address issues and provide replacements in some cases as needed, but please understand that the availability of replacement parts is very limited as I only have a handful of Top & Bottom cases.

I can and will try my best to fix defective parts if you would like, but I cannot guarantee the result is going to be perfect.

For a few cases, I will process a partial refund or a full refund, and I will stay on GeekHack.

Thanks all 

Thanks LZ.

[Fnzzy]

Thanks for the GB LZ! I am using the board right now and it's absolutely stunning! A few hiccups on the way but that's to be expected.

Bonus props for running a GB with google translate being your main tool of communication.

[ninjadoc]

Okay I am done with my build but I am running into a couple of issues with the programming. JigOn doesn't want to connect to my board and while trying to flash the firmware I keep getting the communication error regardless of which USB port I am using. Can anyone help me out?

Edit: I am also getting the windows error "USB device not recognised" and I have to re-plug it like 10 times to get it recognised.

Edit 2: Seems like the USB device error was a thing with my USB hub only. I also managed to program the board on a laptop with a resolution that was too small for JigOn Hope I don't need to make any changes soon.

Always connect directly to your PC and use a USB 2 port if available.

[ninjadoc]

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

1) I'm actually incorrect, I got a very nice PM about it. It's not because of stresses on the metal, it's because it's a "chaotic electrobonding process," and there's no "canned" grey color like with cerakote. You're basically forcing the aluminum to be dark grey, and inconsistencies just show up more often in that color.

Cerakote would be a better way of getting boards the color we want. There are more color options, it's more durable, it's more consistent, and it's cheaper. They have free samples in the US on their website, if you're interested

2) Neither did I, but here we are.

I tried cerakote with an eye of offering it as an option for the Mira. The shop tried 5 times and could not get a consistent color. If the board has been anodized more than once it can be an issue. Sandblasting will cause streaks when cerakote is applied. Not as simple as it sounds.

[Puddsy]

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

1) I'm actually incorrect, I got a very nice PM about it. It's not because of stresses on the metal, it's because it's a "chaotic electrobonding process," and there's no "canned" grey color like with cerakote. You're basically forcing the aluminum to be dark grey, and inconsistencies just show up more often in that color.

Cerakote would be a better way of getting boards the color we want. There are more color options, it's more durable, it's more consistent, and it's cheaper. They have free samples in the US on their website, if you're interested

2) Neither did I, but here we are.

I tried cerakote with an eye of offering it as an option for the Mira. The shop tried 5 times and could not get a consistent color. If the board has been anodized more than once it can be an issue. Sandblasting will cause streaks when cerakote is applied. Not as simple as it sounds.

All types of cerakote are not created equal, the one that should be used is this stuff, according to the shop up by my college.

In fairness, I don't have a ton of experience with cerakote.

[Kafka]

Following CLSm, my 3rd project with CLS series will be CLSs which will support 60% layout.  And yes, you will see a support for HHKB as well.

Any chance for wkl blockers on the 60? I feel like HHKB layout is just so overdone in the community right now...

[CommonCurt]

Following CLSm, my 3rd project with CLS series will be CLSs which will support 60% layout.  And yes, you will see a support for HHKB as well.

Any chance for wkl blockers on the 60? I feel like HHKB layout is just so overdone in the community right now...

+1 Blockers option would be cool.

[kconfire]

Following CLSm, my 3rd project with CLS series will be CLSs which will support 60% layout.  And yes, you will see a support for HHKB as well.

Any chance for wkl blockers on the 60? I feel like HHKB layout is just so overdone in the community right now...

No, I like HHKB layout what are you talking about? 

[odd]

My First LZ.

http://imgur.com/a/cykV6


Came out perfect. I am just waiting for a couple things before i can build it. This weekend is going to be awesome

[Elrick]

Following CLSm, my 3rd project with CLS series will be CLSs which will support 60% layout.  And yes, you will see a support for HHKB as well.

Any chance for wkl blockers on the 60? I feel like HHKB layout is just so overdone in the community right now...

No, I like HHKB layout what are you talking about? 

Take this perverted individual down into the basement, for some serious TKL conversion therapy    .

[kconfire]

Following CLSm, my 3rd project with CLS series will be CLSs which will support 60% layout.  And yes, you will see a support for HHKB as well.

Any chance for wkl blockers on the 60? I feel like HHKB layout is just so overdone in the community right now...

No, I like HHKB layout what are you talking about? 

Take this perverted individual down into the basement, for some serious TKL conversion therapy    .

Call me perverted, but I am about to be the owner of Black Viper v2, Silver Viper v2, and an Acrylic Viper v2! lol
Depending on my financial situation I will also be buying all color combination of CLSs.

HHKB is life :-)

[Fnzzy]

buy me one too bra thanccs bb

[digi]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

Awe yeah, that sucks.

I have like a slight weird anodization spot above where the Pause/Break key goes. It's not a scratch/dent. The color is just lighter, and it's only visible in certain light, and angle.

Show Image

And then this. Which looks to be around the same spot as yours.  Again, only visible in certain light, and angle.  I didn't notice it until I pulled the flashlight out.
I don't feel them when I run my nail over them. So I don't think they are scratches.

Show Image

Did you find a way to get those smudges off the anodizing? I'm still waiting on LZ to respond about how to remove it.

[CommonCurt]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

Awe yeah, that sucks.

I have like a slight weird anodization spot above where the Pause/Break key goes. It's not a scratch/dent. The color is just lighter, and it's only visible in certain light, and angle.

Show Image

And then this. Which looks to be around the same spot as yours.  Again, only visible in certain light, and angle.  I didn't notice it until I pulled the flashlight out.
I don't feel them when I run my nail over them. So I don't think they are scratches.

Show Image

Did you find a way to get those smudges off the anodizing? I'm still waiting on LZ to respond about how to remove it.

No. I tried an eraser, and lightly used a Magic Eraser. Nothing got it off.
I'm pretty positive it's not a adhesive residue.

[digi]

Excitement turned into tears.. anyone else have marks like this on their case??

Show Image

Awe yeah, that sucks.

I have like a slight weird anodization spot above where the Pause/Break key goes. It's not a scratch/dent. The color is just lighter, and it's only visible in certain light, and angle.

Show Image

And then this. Which looks to be around the same spot as yours.  Again, only visible in certain light, and angle.  I didn't notice it until I pulled the flashlight out.
I don't feel them when I run my nail over them. So I don't think they are scratches.

Show Image

Did you find a way to get those smudges off the anodizing? I'm still waiting on LZ to respond about how to remove it.

No. I tried an eraser, and lightly used a Magic Eraser. Nothing got it off.
I'm pretty positive it's not a adhesive residue.

I agree. I let some Goo Gone sit on it for 30 minutes and wiped it with a paper towel and no change. I also tried warm water and some light dish soap. It's definitely not residue.

Has to be something during the anodizing/manufacturing process because we have it in the same spot.

[avid]

In future GB, is engraved (brass) weights something thats on the table?

Would love a LZ engraved brass weight and id happily pay extra for it.

[WiNloSt]

Hi, I just finished my first custom keyboard, but could I ask some stupid question?

What are these for? I guess the rubber pad should be place around the bottom of the PCB, but I'm not sure what's the other two are.

[xondat]

Hi, I just finished my first custom keyboard, but could I ask some stupid question?

What are these for? I guess the rubber pad should be place around the bottom of the PCB, but I'm not sure what's the other two are.

They look like replacement diodes/resistors for the PCB.

[kawasaki161]

Hi, I just finished my first custom keyboard, but could I ask some stupid question?

What are these for? I guess the rubber pad should be place around the bottom of the PCB, but I'm not sure what's the other two are.

Rubber pads go under the case and the other things are just diodes and resistors in case one goes bad or you knock one off the PCB by accident.
I think these extra resistors/diodes are a nice touch, I got some with my TX87 and they've saved my ass twice already (though for different boards).

[WiNloSt]

Thank you both.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

[LifeZ]

Hi, I just finished my first custom keyboard, but could I ask some stupid question?

What are these for? I guess the rubber pad should be place around the bottom of the PCB, but I'm not sure what's the other two are.

It is a extra resistors/diodes!!