[GB] LZ CLS (Classic TKL) : Finished

[loud_asian]

Still working on this but its getting close to where I pull out the real camera and get some money shots...

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There are better options

What tactile switches are better options in your opinion? Skcm Browns are pretty much the best I know.

Personally I think panda clears are the best tactiles. Not really a fan of tactile ALPS at all.

It's all subjective, really.

55g topre is the best tactile imo. Nothing "pops" quite like it.

[OfTheWild]

I havent tried the "panda clear" - i'm guessing cherry clear stem in an invyr shell? I have pandas at work. They're ok. I swapped out my clears for MOD-M's and I definitely like them better. I have a 55g topre realforce 104 and a 55g topre hhkb... both are nice as well.

[Puddsy]

I havent tried the "panda clear" - i'm guessing cherry clear stem in an invyr shell? I have pandas at work. They're ok. I swapped out my clears for MOD-M's and I definitely like them better. I have a 55g topre realforce 104 and a 55g topre hhkb... both are nice as well.

Not quite

Panda clears are MX clears with MX black springs. Bsun panda clears are the same, but in the Bsun/invyr housing.

[Kafka]

I havent tried the "panda clear" - i'm guessing cherry clear stem in an invyr shell? I have pandas at work. They're ok. I swapped out my clears for MOD-M's and I definitely like them better. I have a 55g topre realforce 104 and a 55g topre hhkb... both are nice as well.

Not quite

Panda clears are MX clears with MX black springs. Bsun panda clears are the same, but in the Bsun/invyr housing.

'Panda clear' is an old term

[yicaoyimu]

[WiNloSt]

Hey guys after a very busy week. I now have time to disassemble my LZCLS. So that I can show you the problem with my PCB's connector. I have attach a bunch of images of the connector. And also a video demonstrating the problem.

I don't think it has anything to do with the USB connector's soldered joint. Those seems solid, at least to me. But I suspect it has something to do with the connector itself. Maybe the contact where it touch with a cable come loose. This is my speculation. But what do you guys think? Is the connector broken and if I replace it with a new one will the problem be solved?

Thanks a lot!!!

video here (more details in the video description)

[MkLovin]

55G Lubed Silents/GMK Dolch x CST L-Trac

[Cocopah]

Hey guys after a very busy week. I now have time to disassemble my LZCLS. So that I can show you the problem with my PCB's connector. I have attach a bunch of images of the connector. And also a video demonstrating the problem.

I don't think it has anything to do with the USB connector's soldered joint. Those seems solid, at least to me. But I suspect it has something to do with the connector itself. Maybe the contact where it touch with a cable come loose. This is my speculation. But what do you guys think? Is the connector broken and if I replace it with a new one will the problem be solved?

Thanks a lot!!!

video here (more details in the video description)

It looks like the middle pin is bent down.

[avid]

55G Lubed Silents/GMK Dolch x CST L-Trac

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Beautiful. Dolch looks so good on this. What's the yellow trackball? I know they offer black/red/blue but never seen yellow.

[MkLovin]

55G Lubed Silents/GMK Dolch x CST L-Trac

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Beautiful. Dolch looks so good on this. What's the yellow trackball? I know they offer black/red/blue but never seen yellow.

Thanks!  It's just a black CST L-Trac but I got a pool ball off of someone a while back.  Really enjoying it.  Thanks for the kind words!

[WiNloSt]

Hey guys after a very busy week. I now have time to disassemble my LZCLS. So that I can show you the problem with my PCB's connector. I have attach a bunch of images of the connector. And also a video demonstrating the problem.

I don't think it has anything to do with the USB connector's soldered joint. Those seems solid, at least to me. But I suspect it has something to do with the connector itself. Maybe the contact where it touch with a cable come loose. This is my speculation. But what do you guys think? Is the connector broken and if I replace it with a new one will the problem be solved?

Thanks a lot!!!

video here (more details in the video description)

It looks like the middle pin is bent down.

Thanks for the reply. I have to inspect that again and I swear there's no bent pin. If you look closely all 5 pins area exactly the same height. But there're 4 slits behind the 2 pins from each side letting some light through creating an illusion that those pins looks higher than the one in the middle which made the middle one looks broken.

BTW I DM LZ and he told me that looks like a damaged connector and I probably have to find a new one. I actually planned to get a new connector and solder it myself with my little experience in soldering. I read somewhere that I need to use flux so that those 5 little solder joints, where the connector connect with the PCB, won't join each others. Is that the right way to do it?

[Cocopah]

Hey guys after a very busy week. I now have time to disassemble my LZCLS. So that I can show you the problem with my PCB's connector. I have attach a bunch of images of the connector. And also a video demonstrating the problem.

I don't think it has anything to do with the USB connector's soldered joint. Those seems solid, at least to me. But I suspect it has something to do with the connector itself. Maybe the contact where it touch with a cable come loose. This is my speculation. But what do you guys think? Is the connector broken and if I replace it with a new one will the problem be solved?

Thanks a lot!!!

video here (more details in the video description)

It looks like the middle pin is bent down.

Thanks for the reply. I have to inspect that again and I swear there's no bent pin. If you look closely all 5 pins area exactly the same height. But there're 4 slits behind the 2 pins from each side letting some light through creating an illusion that those pins looks higher than the one in the middle which made the middle one looks broken.

BTW I DM LZ and he told me that looks like a damaged connector and I probably have to find a new one. I actually planned to get a new connector and solder it myself with my little experience in soldering. I read somewhere that I need to use flux so that those 5 little solder joints, where the connector connect with the PCB, won't join each others. Is that the right way to do it?

Yes that's correct, you'll also probably want to get some solder wick and solder sucker as well to remove the connector. There should be 2 legs that go through the PCB.  You will need to desolder those from the back side. If you remove all the solder the connector should come right off. Use the flux when soldering the new connector. You can gently slide the iron over the pins and the flux should pull the solder to them.

[WiNloSt]

Hey guys after a very busy week. I now have time to disassemble my LZCLS. So that I can show you the problem with my PCB's connector. I have attach a bunch of images of the connector. And also a video demonstrating the problem.

I don't think it has anything to do with the USB connector's soldered joint. Those seems solid, at least to me. But I suspect it has something to do with the connector itself. Maybe the contact where it touch with a cable come loose. This is my speculation. But what do you guys think? Is the connector broken and if I replace it with a new one will the problem be solved?

Thanks a lot!!!

video here (more details in the video description)

It looks like the middle pin is bent down.

Thanks for the reply. I have to inspect that again and I swear there's no bent pin. If you look closely all 5 pins area exactly the same height. But there're 4 slits behind the 2 pins from each side letting some light through creating an illusion that those pins looks higher than the one in the middle which made the middle one looks broken.

BTW I DM LZ and he told me that looks like a damaged connector and I probably have to find a new one. I actually planned to get a new connector and solder it myself with my little experience in soldering. I read somewhere that I need to use flux so that those 5 little solder joints, where the connector connect with the PCB, won't join each others. Is that the right way to do it?

Yes that's correct, you'll also probably want to get some solder wick and solder sucker as well to remove the connector. There should be 2 legs that go through the PCB.  You will need to desolder those from the back side. If you remove all the solder the connector should come right off. Use the flux when soldering the new connector. You can gently slide the iron over the pins and the flux should pull the solder to them.

Thanks again!!! I'll update again when i get my hands on a connector replacement.

I really hope i will be able to revive my LZCLS.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

[OfTheWild]

If it was me, I would try to just reflow the joints first. If its disconnecting like that it could just be a cold joint or crack you cant see. I dont see any issues with the photos you have though - the active pins on your female side look ok? I know you've tried another cable, so i'll just guess that its got an internal crack or a cold solder or something we cant see. Good luck!

[CommonCurt]

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

1) I'm actually incorrect, I got a very nice PM about it. It's not because of stresses on the metal, it's because it's a "chaotic electrobonding process," and there's no "canned" grey color like with cerakote. You're basically forcing the aluminum to be dark grey, and inconsistencies just show up more often in that color.

Cerakote would be a better way of getting boards the color we want. There are more color options, it's more durable, it's more consistent, and it's cheaper. They have free samples in the US on their website, if you're interested

2) Neither did I, but here we are.

I tried cerakote with an eye of offering it as an option for the Mira. The shop tried 5 times and could not get a consistent color. If the board has been anodized more than once it can be an issue. Sandblasting will cause streaks when cerakote is applied. Not as simple as it sounds.

All types of cerakote are not created equal, the one that should be used is this stuff, according to the shop up by my college.

In fairness, I don't have a ton of experience with cerakote.

After talking to the Cerakote place by my house.  The guy said what they do when Cerakoting anodized aluminum is beadblast it just a little bit to slightly ruff up the surface (not try to get all of the Ano off) so the Cerakote can adhere to the anodization. 
He said this is how they do it without leaving streaks.
I'll be taking one of my other cheap cases to him soon and see how it actually turns out.

[megaforce]

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

1) I'm actually incorrect, I got a very nice PM about it. It's not because of stresses on the metal, it's because it's a "chaotic electrobonding process," and there's no "canned" grey color like with cerakote. You're basically forcing the aluminum to be dark grey, and inconsistencies just show up more often in that color.

Cerakote would be a better way of getting boards the color we want. There are more color options, it's more durable, it's more consistent, and it's cheaper. They have free samples in the US on their website, if you're interested

2) Neither did I, but here we are.

I tried cerakote with an eye of offering it as an option for the Mira. The shop tried 5 times and could not get a consistent color. If the board has been anodized more than once it can be an issue. Sandblasting will cause streaks when cerakote is applied. Not as simple as it sounds.

All types of cerakote are not created equal, the one that should be used is this stuff, according to the shop up by my college.

In fairness, I don't have a ton of experience with cerakote.

After talking to the Cerakote place by my house.  The guy said what they do when Cerakoting anodized aluminum is beadblast it just a little bit to slightly ruff up the surface (not try to get all of the Ano off) so the Cerakote can adhere to the anodization. 
He said this is how they do it without leaving streaks.
I'll be taking one of my other cheap cases to him soon and see how it actually turns out.

I cerakoted my TX-84. Brunt bronze top, cobalt bottom.



You don't need to strip the anodizing.

I'll try to get better photos in the afternoon.

[mech0nly]

Just realized my keyboard is pinging. I used old mx brown on alu plate. Not sure its from case, internals, or switches. Though i haven't tried filling inside case with dampening materials.
I opened the board, leaving only the internals, knock it from "cls" logo and i hear pinging noise traveling from knock point to opposite area (caps lock).

I will try filling the case with dampening material first and report later.
If the ping persists, i think i'll make PC plate.

[CommonCurt]

When getting small variations in color, id assume that is not because the top- and bottom cases are being ran in separate batches but rather that the aluminum react different to the stress?

Never thought i'd be interested in aluminum anodization.

1) I'm actually incorrect, I got a very nice PM about it. It's not because of stresses on the metal, it's because it's a "chaotic electrobonding process," and there's no "canned" grey color like with cerakote. You're basically forcing the aluminum to be dark grey, and inconsistencies just show up more often in that color.

Cerakote would be a better way of getting boards the color we want. There are more color options, it's more durable, it's more consistent, and it's cheaper. They have free samples in the US on their website, if you're interested

2) Neither did I, but here we are.

I tried cerakote with an eye of offering it as an option for the Mira. The shop tried 5 times and could not get a consistent color. If the board has been anodized more than once it can be an issue. Sandblasting will cause streaks when cerakote is applied. Not as simple as it sounds.

All types of cerakote are not created equal, the one that should be used is this stuff, according to the shop up by my college.

In fairness, I don't have a ton of experience with cerakote.

After talking to the Cerakote place by my house.  The guy said what they do when Cerakoting anodized aluminum is beadblast it just a little bit to slightly ruff up the surface (not try to get all of the Ano off) so the Cerakote can adhere to the anodization. 
He said this is how they do it without leaving streaks.
I'll be taking one of my other cheap cases to him soon and see how it actually turns out.

I cerakoted my TX-84. Brunt bronze top, cobalt bottom.

Show Image

You don't need to strip the anodizing.

I'll try to get better photos in the afternoon.

Yeah, I would definitely like to see some more pictures.  Did you Cerakote it yourself?

The guy at the shop close to me said that they just bead blast it just a tiny bit to ruff up the anodized surface.

[WiNloSt]

If it was me, I would try to just reflow the joints first. If its disconnecting like that it could just be a cold joint or crack you cant see. I dont see any issues with the photos you have though - the active pins on your female side look ok? I know you've tried another cable, so i'll just guess that its got an internal crack or a cold solder or something we cant see. Good luck!

Man I never thought of that, you know what I just did what you said. And my PCB is back to life plugged in the cable no disconnection or whatnot. Thanks a lot mate!!!

Damn it started to getting disconnection again. I'll see what I can do about it.

Edit: So after having the USB plugged in for a while it will stop working, not sure what's the deal with it. But after every time I solder the connector again it worked just fine.

[WiNloSt]

Hmmmmmmm, I tried to desolder the USB connector and one of the metal pad that, to me, should stays on the PCB came right off is that normal  .
I'm freaking out right now, not sure if I just broke the PCB or not.

[DanielT]

Hmmmmmmm, I tried to desolder the USB connector and one of the metal pad that, to me, should stays on the PCB came right off is that normal  .
I'm freaking out right now, not sure if I just broke the PCB or not.

In theory even that can be solved, try and follow the trace from that pad and see if you can't do some jumper wire thing. It's not nice but it works. I don't have this board so I can't check and tell you exactly where to do it, but I did it in the past on other PCB's .

[WiNloSt]

Hmmmmmmm, I tried to desolder the USB connector and one of the metal pad that, to me, should stays on the PCB came right off is that normal  .
I'm freaking out right now, not sure if I just broke the PCB or not.

In theory even that can be solved, try and follow the trace from that pad and see if you can't do some jumper wire thing. It's not nice but it works. I don't have this board so I can't check and tell you exactly where to do it, but I did it in the past on other PCB's .

I look carefully but there's no trace from the top PCB side to that pad. But I found this image from a Google search not sure if that means anything

I'm trying to convince myself that that pin doesn't need to be connected. T-T

[WiNloSt]

Just to update on my progress. I did only wire the left 4 pins and the keyboard seems to work. I'm not sure what causes the disconnection but I'll monitor it while I leave it plugged in for a while and see how it goes.

Sorry for a bunch of comments but I was really freaked out.

[airs]

Have you tried reflashing the firmware?

[WiNloSt]

Have you tried reflashing the firmware?

Yep I just flashed a new firmware this evening, same firmware I flashed before though. However, it will work fine for a while, but after a couple of minutes the underlight will stop and Windows will notify that the device is not recognized. So I leave that for another big while and then test again. And it failed again after a couple of minutes. I must admit I have absolutely no idea what causes this issue. But I hope a new USB connector will fix it. My order haven't been shipped though. This might take some time.

[kawasaki161]

Have you tried reflashing the firmware?

Yep I just flashed a new firmware this evening, same firmware I flashed before though. However, it will work fine for a while, but after a couple of minutes the underlight will stop and Windows will notify that the device is not recognized. So I leave that for another big while and then test again. And it failed again after a couple of minutes. I must admit I have absolutely no idea what causes this issue. But I hope a new USB connector will fix it. My order haven't been shipped though. This might take some time.

Just in case you are still on the edge about pin 4, it's not necessary at all.
While we are at the topic of it stopping to recognize the device... have you tried it on a different machine? One way or another, please report back after you changed the connector.

[airs]

All else fails you can just get a new pcb from Leeku.

[Puddsy]

All else fails you can just get a new pcb from Leeku.

Get one from Kin instead... Leeku delegated most of the PCB stuff to him anyway, and he doesn't take 3 months to reply

[airs]

All else fails you can just get a new pcb from Leeku.

Get one from Kin instead... Leeku delegated most of the PCB stuff to him anyway, and he doesn't take 3 months to reply

Oh, right. Good call!

[WiNloSt]

I tried plugging in with another computer and it doesn't drop a connection now. Not sure what happened with my main PC, it would work for some time then stop working.

And thank you everyone for pointing out many useful info 

[mech0nly]

Has anyone had issues with pinging? I tried dampening materials. It feels less hollow and more solid now, but the pinging still there (even by only knocking the keyboard).

Is it caused by alu plate?
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[airs]

Tried Kaihl Box Whites in Alu plate last night with damping material - had a ton of ping so I'll be swapping them out for something else, maybe ergo clears?

[mech0nly]

Tried Kaihl Box Whites in Alu plate last night with damping material - had a ton of ping so I'll be swapping them out for something else, maybe ergo clears?

Ergo clears sounds good
I'm using old mx browns though.

[Puddsy]

Try spring swapping/lubing if you're getting ping.

[airs]

Try spring swapping/lubing if you're getting ping.

Thought about that but aren't the Box switches a PITA to open?

Btw here's what Box whites look like on gray CLS:

[Puddsy]

BOX switches are a PITA to open, and you can't swap the springs.

[techfresh]

BOX switches are a PITA to open, and you can't swap the springs.

I spent around 4 hours lubing my box blacks last night. I got through 40. Definitely need to figure out a better system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kconfire]

Try spring swapping/lubing if you're getting ping.

Thought about that but aren't the Box switches a PITA to open?

Btw here's what Box whites look like on gray CLS:

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Do they feel better than regular cherry mx stems?
I'm assuming they do if you're spending tons of hours on them.

Please post a video for a sound!  

[mech0nly]

My switches were spring swapped and lubed. there is a spare switch that also tuned, i hear no pinging from it.

Here i attached a sound test. (Please adjust volume to high in order to notice it)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BywAzvthhJ0kYTdjZ3gtU2Y1aTQ

So i think Polycarbonate Half-plate for CLS sounds kinda cool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[zaerst]

Finally put this together. Here are some quick nudes!
Grey WKL + 67g zeals + clipped lubed stabs + diffuser

[Elrick]

Try spring swapping/lubing if you're getting ping.

Thought about that but aren't the Box switches a PITA to open?

Btw here's what Box whites look like on gray CLS:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

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They're BEAUTIFUL    .

I want these installed on my CLSm Model.

[Puddsy]

Finally put this together. Here are some quick nudes!
Grey WKL + 67g zeals + clipped lubed stabs + diffuser

WOW it looks way better without the diffuser

but not bad with it either

[avid]

Great looking case! What caps are you putting on it?

[WiNloSt]

So guys. Sad news. I just replaced the USB connector and my keyboard behaved exactly the same as it did before changing the connector. (

I will test more on weekends but I think my PCB is probably break somewhere.

[Puddsy]

So guys. Sad news. I just replaced the USB connector and my keyboard behaved exactly the same as it did before changing the connector. (

I will test more on weekends but I think my PCB is probably break somewhere.

bother kin or LZ to send you a new one

[techfresh]

Any more polycarbonate plates for sale?


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[mech0nly]

Any more polycarbonate plates for sale?


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Not existed yet, afaik. Also need it though.

[pr0ximity]

My switches were spring swapped and lubed. there is a spare switch that also tuned, i hear no pinging from it.

Here i attached a sound test. (Please adjust volume to high in order to notice it)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BywAzvthhJ0kYTdjZ3gtU2Y1aTQ

So i think Polycarbonate Half-plate for CLS sounds kinda cool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you lube the ends of the springs? In my experience that's the only thing that does anything to reduce ping, and it has always eliminated it entirely for me.

I'm skeptical that a different plate would reduce ping, but you're welcome to try. Polycarb is the best plate material anyway 

[avid]

What switches do you guys use polycarb with?

[Puddsy]

What switches do you guys use polycarb with?

i recommend vintage blacks