ErgoDox - Custom split ergo keyboard.

[SpAmRaY]

I was asleep on the last quick drop. I guess i will have to wait another 1-2 months for another drop.

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More suffering on this laptop scissor switch keyboard

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quick drop?

you don't use quickdrop? where have you been?

[Pacifist]

I was asleep on the last quick drop. I guess i will have to wait another 1-2 months for another drop.

Show Image

More suffering on this laptop scissor switch keyboard

Show Image

quick drop?

you don't use quickdrop? where have you been?

I don't know where i have been
i must see this

[domoaligato]

The switches are PCB mounted on mine and several others that I've seen. I don't know if a plate mounted version exists or if there are plans for it though. Someone more knowledgeable should answer that.

Thanks for the help. I'm thinking of making a dirt cheap ergodox case out of legos lying around and not missing out on a plate makes the incentive higher

That would be something to see! There's a thread with Lego Poker cases people made around here somewhere you can look at for inspiration. Can't seem to find it.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40251.0

[jdc0589]

Does anyone have a reliable source for the standard acrylic cases? Doesn't look like anyone sells them on their own reliably, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
I can get them custom cut from the cad files, but I'm sure that would wind up costing a lot more...

I know know shapeways has the 3d printed version, and I honestly may end up going that route for simplicity (though I might only order the tops and make my own bottoms from acrylic, which seems fairly easy). Just looking for options.

[jalli]

I would also really like to know if there is a good place to source them, I just asked a similar question in the IC for Proper ErgoDOX case thread and listed the options I know of to source ErgoDOX cases.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47408.msg1160289#msg1160289

Does anyone have a reliable source for the standard acrylic cases? Doesn't look like anyone sells them on their own reliably, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
I can get them custom cut from the cad files, but I'm sure that would wind up costing a lot more...

[jdc0589]

Hmm, good to know. I'm checking out Ponoko now, supposedly they have a 2d laser cutting service.

Edit: except their website sucks and it just spins for minutes when trying to add a design....

I would also really like to know if there is a good place to source them, I just asked a similar question in the IC for Proper ErgoDOX case thread and listed the options I know of to source ErgoDOX cases.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47408.msg1160289#msg1160289

Does anyone have a reliable source for the standard acrylic cases? Doesn't look like anyone sells them on their own reliably, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
I can get them custom cut from the cad files, but I'm sure that would wind up costing a lot more...

[jaymatter]

Progress report on the back-light work.

• I'm successfully reading and writing to the LM3549 LED Driver via I2C, currently working on building out a library to make all the functions easily available.
• For some reason the green diode won't light up, everything measures fine, voltages are good, no shorts, it does require higher voltages than the others to drive it, I'll figure it out later.
• I'm dealing with some resonance issues with the inductor, there is an annoying hum at some intensities when it's powering LEDs.
• The through holes for the fibers are a bit to tight, I'll change them to allow more clearance.
• I've also been thinking about the effectiveness issues with the light pipe, I'm wondering if I can turn it into an inside out mirror by "silvering" it like a mirror, hence any light that would otherwise escape should be reflected until cough by the light pipe/fibers.
• I think the design could also use some mechanical holes to hold down the fibers

This project looks really awesome. Can't wait to see where it goes!

[yakitysax]

In theory, I should be able to hook up a multicolored RGB LED as part of those 3 circuits and mod the keyboard firmware to set it to arbitrary colors, right? That sounds more fun than just 3 separate LEDs. :-)

This idea is cool! 
I just order a few RGB LEDs, will test and see how it worked

I was previously unaware of RGB LEDs, and thought that I would be able to at most represent 8 states with the 3 LEDs (2^3) without resorting to something like morse code, however with these I will be able to represent k^3 states, where k is the number of unique colors each LED can display, very cool!

[plainbriny]

RGB led has 4 pins, therefore you can use 1 RGB led in place of the 3 leds without much modification of the circuit. Each signal will now control one color.



If you only use on/off states, there will still be 2^3 color combinations. It's like you use 3 individual leds, each with a different color.

In theory, I should be able to hook up a multicolored RGB LED as part of those 3 circuits and mod the keyboard firmware to set it to arbitrary colors, right? That sounds more fun than just 3 separate LEDs. :-)

This idea is cool! 
I just order a few RGB LEDs, will test and see how it worked

I was previously unaware of RGB LEDs, and thought that I would be able to at most represent 8 states with the 3 LEDs (2^3) without resorting to something like morse code, however with these I will be able to represent k^3 states, where k is the number of unique colors each LED can display, very cool!

[plainbriny]

Wired one RGB LED to my ErgoDox, it works, but still need to modify the firmware to fully exploit its functions.

It would take too much effort to desolder the original leds and resistors, so I cut one end of the resistors and connected the led pins

It's ugly but works. 

I scraped the back side of the PCB and connected the ground pin there.


The blue light is on... Now, what can I do with the RGB led?


Video showing ErgoDox booting with TMK firmware installed
https://plus.google.com/106952917630137220583/posts/TV2paRH4cDo

In theory, I should be able to hook up a multicolored RGB LED as part of those 3 circuits and mod the keyboard firmware to set it to arbitrary colors, right? That sounds more fun than just 3 separate LEDs. :-)

This idea is cool! 
I just order a few RGB LEDs, will test and see how it worked

[fisofo]

You likely delivered a crippling static blow to the teensy.

time to cough up $20 and replace it.

Yeah, I suppose you are right, just strange it works fine through a USB hub. I went and ordered a new one... I'm just not looking forward to the desoldering; I've got solder wick and it never works like I want it to. Maybe I'll try a pump this time.

Looking for a bit more advice here: I tested the new teensy and confirmed USB works as expected, but before I solder it in, I want to make sure I don't go and shock that one too. I've been trying a few things, and I've found:

1. I bought an anti-static pad to sit under the keyboard, but it doesn't seem to help if I happen to touch the keyboard first.
2. I thought the problem might be that the USB components are so close to the top aluminum layer, so I put some electrical tape between them, but it still zaps it (I'm testing with the semi-functional old chip)
3. clipping alligator clips to it and a section of metal on my desk that goes to the floor seems to re-route the shock away from the chip, but it's a bit of a pain in the neck.

Anyone found other solutions to this issue that are perhaps more elegant? I don't want to give up the aluminum because of this issue...

Thanks!

[Zustiur]

I've just finished assembling my ergodox. Only 3 keys seem to be failing; s, f, and end, so I'm pretty happy with that considering how little I've done with electronics in the past.

I have a dumb question though (to which I'm sure I know the answer, but I'd rather ask and be completely sure): The teensy that I got with the package already had its legs attached, and they're too long to fit into the case properly. Is there any harm in me cutting them short (near to where the solder is)?

Edit
Nevermind. I found the answer in the video that I was working from. Cutting the legs short is fine.

[OldDataHands]

Looking for a bit more advice here: I tested the new teensy and confirmed USB works as expected, but before I solder it in, I want to make sure I don't go and shock that one too.

Have a read through the materials linked to from here:
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=340899

They are:
http://www.ecse.rpi.edu/~schubert/Course-Teaching-modules/A041-Human-body-model-and-electrostatic-discharge-ESD.pdf
http://www-tcad.stanford.edu/tcad/pubs/theses/sbeebe.pdf
http://www.nxp.com/documents/application_note/AN10753.pdf

Some SWAGs on my part:

Perhaps you can make a high-resistance (500kOhm?) connection to from the plate to GND,
as well as a capacitive connection with a small value (perhaps 4.7nF) 0805 cap.
The capacitance will drop the peak voltage, pass the pulse through to GND,
the resistor will drain the charge away.
Maybe you can put one of their fancy ESD diodes into play as a way to ensure that your
discharge goes to gnd...

Maybe you can turn on the humidifier!

[plainbriny]

Looking for a bit more advice here: I tested the new teensy and confirmed USB works as expected, but before I solder it in, I want to make sure I don't go and shock that one too.

Have a read through the materials linked to from here:
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=340899

They are:
http://www.ecse.rpi.edu/~schubert/Course-Teaching-modules/A041-Human-body-model-and-electrostatic-discharge-ESD.pdf
http://www-tcad.stanford.edu/tcad/pubs/theses/sbeebe.pdf
http://www.nxp.com/documents/application_note/AN10753.pdf

Some SWAGs on my part:

Perhaps you can make a high-resistance (500kOhm?) connection to from the plate to GND,
as well as a capacitive connection with a small value (perhaps 4.7nF) 0805 cap.
The capacitance will drop the peak voltage, pass the pulse through to GND,
the resistor will drain the charge away.
Maybe you can put one of their fancy ESD diodes into play as a way to ensure that your
discharge goes to gnd...

Maybe you can turn on the humidier!

How about static eliminator keychain?
http://www.lordbenex.com/benex/products_3.php?product_id=1265439966&area_idtt=1260782691&area_namett=Keychain&area_id=1265437738&area_name=Key%20Chain

This keychain flashes while there're statics remain. You may rip the components and connect to the case.
Below is a video showing the keychain in action:
http://attach2.mobile01.com/videoplayer.swf?d=201012&v=1420249-22eb38306b95822622cf4f8d31ec69f9

[fisofo]

Looking for a bit more advice here: I tested the new teensy and confirmed USB works as expected, but before I solder it in, I want to make sure I don't go and shock that one too.

Have a read through the materials linked to from here:
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=340899

They are:
http://www.ecse.rpi.edu/~schubert/Course-Teaching-modules/A041-Human-body-model-and-electrostatic-discharge-ESD.pdf
http://www-tcad.stanford.edu/tcad/pubs/theses/sbeebe.pdf
http://www.nxp.com/documents/application_note/AN10753.pdf

Some SWAGs on my part:

Perhaps you can make a high-resistance (500kOhm?) connection to from the plate to GND,
as well as a capacitive connection with a small value (perhaps 4.7nF) 0805 cap.
The capacitance will drop the peak voltage, pass the pulse through to GND,
the resistor will drain the charge away.
Maybe you can put one of their fancy ESD diodes into play as a way to ensure that your
discharge goes to gnd...

Maybe you can turn on the humidier!

I had to look up "SWAG", that is a fantastic acronym

Thanks for the help ODH! I like the idea of the "fancy" ESD (and a humidifier is not an option currently), so I'm ordering a few from digikey to try out. This PDF makes it pretty clear how to wire it too:
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/Electronics_Technical/Application_Guides/Littelfuse_ESD_System_Level_Guide.pdf

So, I guess I'll report back on how that goes... only trouble now will be to figure out how to solder it since I don't have pads for it. I'll probably just have to hack it with wires instead.

[TheHydroMule]

Is the teensy 3.0 usable for an ergodox? I've got a friend that works with electronics and said he'll give me one if I need it. So I would think about ordering a PCB and the other components, depending on if that is usable or not. Also can I just use the left side without using the right side of the ergodox?

[AKmalamute]

Is the teensy 3.0 usable for an ergodox? [...] Also can I just use the left side without using the right side of the ergodox?

No, because the breakout board is of a different configuration, logic chip differences notwithstanding (the 3.0 is an ARM or something -- it's been discussed elsewhere) so it wouldn't actually fit into the PCB.

I think it's the reverse ... the RH side has the uC (Teensy 2.0) and that's what talks to the PC. The left side has an I/O expander but no way to talk to the PC so you can disconnect the left side and the right running.

There are folks however, that have put the teensy on the left so they could experiment with making a one-handed gaming "tenkey" of macros for gaming or what have you. That too has been discussed elsewhere. In 'keyboards' I think.

[TheHydroMule]

Alright thanks I'll have a look around

[darkfire32]

Don't know if anyone else has had this problem or if this was reported ago but I have a problem with the ergodox code that massdrop gave. Whenever I press the 7 key on the keyboard it spits out "8-0=8-9=08-" instead of seven. I've circumventing this through using a numpad layer. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Thanks.

[ic07]

Don't know if anyone else has had this problem or if this was reported ago but I have a problem with the ergodox code that massdrop gave. Whenever I press the 7 key on the keyboard it spits out "8-0=8-9=08-" instead of seven. I've circumventing this through using a numpad layer. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Thanks.

You could try this old build of rev-1 if you like.  If the behavior persists, it's most likely a hardware problem.

[darkfire32]

Don't know if anyone else has had this problem or if this was reported ago but I have a problem with the ergodox code that massdrop gave. Whenever I press the 7 key on the keyboard it spits out "8-0=8-9=08-" instead of seven. I've circumventing this through using a numpad layer. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Thanks.

You could try this old build of rev-1 if you like.  If the behavior persists, it's most likely a hardware problem.

I tried the old build but it didn't work. I have noticed now that if I turn on number lock then my 7 key types out 09=8-=. I guess I'll just keep number lock turned off, not like there's a number pad to this keyboard. But because it is acting this way, I don't know if it is a hardware problem. I should also say that my 7 key is at the position of the numlock key on the old build but I'm using a different layout from the massdrop customizer, don't know if that would cause a problem.

[ic07]

Don't know if anyone else has had this problem or if this was reported ago but I have a problem with the ergodox code that massdrop gave. Whenever I press the 7 key on the keyboard it spits out "8-0=8-9=08-" instead of seven. I've circumventing this through using a numpad layer. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Thanks.

You could try this old build of rev-1 if you like.  If the behavior persists, it's most likely a hardware problem.

I tried the old build but it didn't work. I have noticed now that if I turn on number lock then my 7 key types out 09=8-=. I guess I'll just keep number lock turned off, not like there's a number pad to this keyboard. But because it is acting this way, I don't know if it is a hardware problem. I should also say that my 7 key is at the position of the numlock key on the old build but I'm using a different layout from the massdrop customizer, don't know if that would cause a problem.

No, the different layouts shouldn't be causing any problems at all -- and the fact that the old build of the firmware doesn't fix the problem confirms it.  Every once in a while someone posts with a single key generating multiple key presses (which would naturally type different things depending on whether the number pad or any other layer was active).  It always ends up being a short somewhere... I forget if it's more commonly between keys, or between pins on the Teensy.  I'd suggest breaking out the multimeter and poking around a bit -- or, if it's easier, skipping that and just reflowing *all* suspicious joints.  Hope you can get it working .

[zflamewing]

I've become interested in the Ergodox and after some poking around it looks like I can get everything I'd need to make one minus the case for under $150.00.  I'm still searching for a reasonably priced plate and case but so far it's looking like the set from safeway for 200 is about all I'm finding unless I wait for the next massdrop GB.  Does anyone have any other suggestions?  I'd prefer something in the full hand design ideally, but I'm not too picky thus far.

[tp4tissue]

Looking for a bit more advice here: I tested the new teensy and confirmed USB works as expected, but before I solder it in, I want to make sure I don't go and shock that one too.

Have a read through the materials linked to from here:
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=340899

They are:
http://www.ecse.rpi.edu/~schubert/Course-Teaching-modules/A041-Human-body-model-and-electrostatic-discharge-ESD.pdf
http://www-tcad.stanford.edu/tcad/pubs/theses/sbeebe.pdf
http://www.nxp.com/documents/application_note/AN10753.pdf

Some SWAGs on my part:

Perhaps you can make a high-resistance (500kOhm?) connection to from the plate to GND,
as well as a capacitive connection with a small value (perhaps 4.7nF) 0805 cap.
The capacitance will drop the peak voltage, pass the pulse through to GND,
the resistor will drain the charge away.
Maybe you can put one of their fancy ESD diodes into play as a way to ensure that your
discharge goes to gnd...

Maybe you can turn on the humidier!

would this be reliable without soldering to the aluminum.. as in you just sand a portion of the bottom side, take off some of the anodization, and tape some wires to it..

As I recall to bond to aluminum you'd need that high heat flux and a torch ...  that might warp the thin aluminum plates or discolor it?

[ic07]

I've become interested in the Ergodox and after some poking around it looks like I can get everything I'd need to make one minus the case for under $150.00.  I'm still searching for a reasonably priced plate and case but so far it's looking like the set from safeway for 200 is about all I'm finding unless I wait for the next massdrop GB.  Does anyone have any other suggestions?  I'd prefer something in the full hand design ideally, but I'm not too picky thus far.

Personally, I'd wait till the next massdrop buy if you really want a case.  Alternately, you might be able to find someone willing to laser cut a single litster style case for you for a little less than the 3D printed case costs (or perhaps not, I'm really not sure).  If you might be able to do without the case (with PCB mounted switches) I'd definitely give that option some thought.  I've been using my causeless prototype (with yoga mat underneath for stability and to protect my desk) for probably a year or two now, and it's still working great .

[jdc0589]

I would also really like to know if there is a good place to source them, I just asked a similar question in the IC for Proper ErgoDOX case thread and listed the options I know of to source ErgoDOX cases.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47408.msg1160289#msg1160289

Does anyone have a reliable source for the standard acrylic cases? Doesn't look like anyone sells them on their own reliably, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
I can get them custom cut from the cad files, but I'm sure that would wind up costing a lot more...

FYI, I ended up getting my case done by Craig at laser-4-u.com
It came out perfect, but was a bit expensive ($90 including material). That said, it sounded like subsequent cases could be done for ~$50 each. Turnaround time was one day, so that was nice.

[ic07]

@jdc0589:
Good to know that acrylic cases can be had for a fairly reasonable price.  Back during the first run when Massdrop was letting people special order only pieces of kits (which I fully took advantage of ), the cost-to-customer for an acrylic case seemed to be around $80.

@everyone:
Rounded the corners of my acrylic case today, if anyone's interested!  Courtesy of my Dad's tools and experience .  It may seem like a little mod, but it makes a huge difference.

[zflamewing]

I would also really like to know if there is a good place to source them, I just asked a similar question in the IC for Proper ErgoDOX case thread and listed the options I know of to source ErgoDOX cases.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47408.msg1160289#msg1160289

Does anyone have a reliable source for the standard acrylic cases? Doesn't look like anyone sells them on their own reliably, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
I can get them custom cut from the cad files, but I'm sure that would wind up costing a lot more...

FYI, I ended up getting my case done by Craig at laser-4-u.com
It came out perfect, but was a bit expensive ($90 including material). That said, it sounded like subsequent cases could be done for ~$50 each. Turnaround time was one day, so that was nice.

Was that the classic or the full hand?  Shapeways wants close to 200 or a bit more for the basic 3D printed case Dox designed.

90 sounds better than 200 but if a few us went in and could drop the price further that might be something to consider.

[jdc0589]

I would also really like to know if there is a good place to source them, I just asked a similar question in the IC for Proper ErgoDOX case thread and listed the options I know of to source ErgoDOX cases.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47408.msg1160289#msg1160289

Does anyone have a reliable source for the standard acrylic cases? Doesn't look like anyone sells them on their own reliably, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
I can get them custom cut from the cad files, but I'm sure that would wind up costing a lot more...

FYI, I ended up getting my case done by Craig at laser-4-u.com
It came out perfect, but was a bit expensive ($90 including material). That said, it sounded like subsequent cases could be done for ~$50 each. Turnaround time was one day, so that was nice.

Was that the classic or the full hand?  Shapeways wants close to 200 or a bit more for the basic 3D printed case Dox designed.

90 sounds better than 200 but if a few us went in and could drop the price further that might be something to consider.

Classic. I'm going to make some adjustable risers at some point, which will be a lot easier with the smaller footprint of the classic design.
Hell, unless I was just quoted special prices for some reason, I bet we could get it under $50. I told them I might need two, and was told the second one would only be $50 if I wanted it (they factor set up cost or something in to the first one). I decided against ordering two right off though since I was unsure if I would really even like the ergodox (I love the **** out it though).

On an unrelated note, does anyone have an idea why I cant get [L0] , clear layer stack, to work? All the other layer manipulation bindings work fine, but L0 does nothing. I'm using the massdrop configuration tool; haven't had issues with any of the other button functions.

[tp4tissue]

@jdc0589:
Good to know that acrylic cases can be had for a fairly reasonable price.  Back during the first run when Massdrop was letting people special order only pieces of kits (which I fully took advantage of ), the cost-to-customer for an acrylic case seemed to be around $80.

@everyone:
Rounded the corners of my acrylic case today, if anyone's interested!  Courtesy of my Dad's tools and experience .  It may seem like a little mod, but it makes a huge difference.

(Attachment Link)

so fancy..

[balanar]

Hi all, got a question here.

Currently Litster's ErgoDox Classic case comprises of the following parts:

Layer 1 Top       - 3mm
Layer 2 Spacer  - 5mm
Layer 3 Plate     - 5mm
Layer 4 Spacer  - 5mm
Layer 5 Bottom  - 3mm

What would I need to take note of if I were to replace the 3 5mm pieces of acrylic with 5 3mm pieces? Would anyone here be willing to create the .dxf files required if changes in the design are necessary?

I am looking into getting acrylic cases made with different colours but planning to run very few numbers at first. 5mm costs more than 3mm so using only the latter is one way to bring costs down. I don't have access to my own ErgoDox at the moment hence the question here.

[MOZ]

Hi all, got a question here.

Currently Litster's ErgoDox Classic case comprises of the following parts:

Layer 1 Top       - 3mm
Layer 2 Spacer  - 5mm
Layer 3 Plate     - 5mm
Layer 4 Spacer  - 5mm
Layer 5 Bottom  - 3mm

What would I need to take note of if I were to replace the 3 5mm pieces of acrylic with 5 3mm pieces? Would anyone here be willing to create the .dxf files required if changes in the design are necessary?

I am looking into getting acrylic cases made with different colours but planning to run very few numbers at first. 5mm costs more than 3mm so using only the latter is one way to bring costs down. I don't have access to my own ErgoDox at the moment hence the question here.

I recently got a case cut in 3mm sheets and this is how it must be:
Layer 1 Top
Layer 2 Spacer
Layer 2 Spacer*
Layer 3 Plate*
Layer 4 Spacer
Layer 4 Spacer
Layer 4 Spacer (Depending on exact thickness of the acrylic sheet)
Layer 5 Bottom

I know it is ~3mm thicker than the litster case, however since you need atleast 8.5mm clearance from the top of the switch to the bottom and many at times, the acrylic sheet for 3mm vary from 2.7-3.3, it can be very tight with only two "Layer 4 Spacer", thus you might need 3.

You will need two "Layer 2 Spacer" above the plate for the Teensy.

Layers marked with * need notches where the connectors go. This notch is already present on Layer 3, but you will have to edit it for Layer 2.

[balanar]

Hi all, got a question here.

Currently Litster's ErgoDox Classic case comprises of the following parts:

Layer 1 Top       - 3mm
Layer 2 Spacer  - 5mm
Layer 3 Plate     - 5mm
Layer 4 Spacer  - 5mm
Layer 5 Bottom  - 3mm

What would I need to take note of if I were to replace the 3 5mm pieces of acrylic with 5 3mm pieces? Would anyone here be willing to create the .dxf files required if changes in the design are necessary?

I am looking into getting acrylic cases made with different colours but planning to run very few numbers at first. 5mm costs more than 3mm so using only the latter is one way to bring costs down. I don't have access to my own ErgoDox at the moment hence the question here.

I recently got a case cut in 3mm sheets and this is how it must be:
Layer 1 Top
Layer 2 Spacer
Layer 2 Spacer*
Layer 3 Plate*
Layer 4 Spacer
Layer 4 Spacer
Layer 4 Spacer (Depending on exact thickness of the acrylic sheet)
Layer 5 Bottom

I know it is ~3mm thicker than the litster case, however since you need atleast 8.5mm clearance from the top of the switch to the bottom and many at times, the acrylic sheet for 3mm vary from 2.7-3.3, it can be very tight with only two "Layer 4 Spacer", thus you might need 3.

You will need two "Layer 2 Spacer" above the plate for the Teensy.

Layers marked with * need notches where the connectors go. This notch is already present on Layer 3, but you will have to edit it for Layer 2.

Thank you for your reply MOZ!

So please correct me if I missed out anything but in essence, for a case purely made out of 3 layers to work, I will need another 'layer 2 spacer' with no changes except to add in the notches for the connectors similar to those that exist on layer 3.

This in itself should be fine unless the tolerances vary as you mentioned. In that scenario, I should have another layer 4 spacer.

Any other changes required at all? Would you be open to sharing the .dxf file for the 'updated' layer 2 spacer with notches that you used?

[MOZ]

For a case purely made out of 3mm layers to work, you will need:
Another 'Layer 2 Spacer' with no changes except to add in the notches for the connectors similar to those that exist on layer 3.
Another 'Layer 4 Spacer' with no changes at all
Another 'Layer 4 Spacer' if there is variance in tolerance as I had mentioned

Besides getting the 5 layers cutout as is.

Let me find the edit file and post it.

[balanar]

That would be absolutely fantastic! Thanks MOZ!

[MerelyRey]

Got my first set of custom ErgoDOX RGB Backlit PCBs, as can be expected there were a couple of bugs/issues.

[...]

And here is a link to an updated OSHPark project with the issues fixed, I still don't recommend anyone order this thing until it's tested and verified.
http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/xx7D5F59

Thank you jalli for the great work,

quite interested I am looking at the development of a backlit version. From my perspective we now have a good prototype. However I see two issues which may get tackled with the next version:
- From my experience, most keyboards with backlit cherry keys have the keys installed in a way that the LED is on top. This is done because most (or all?) keycaps that are partially transparent have this "window" also on top. In the ErgoDOX PCBs the keys need to get placed rotated resulting in having the LEDs in the bottom. The brightness would be insufficient in the case of partially transparent keycaps. I know it would mean a substantial effort, but we should aim at a layout where all keys are consistent in the ideal rotation.
- Some prefer a different key layout for the thumb pad. In my case I would like to use SX1:5 and SX1:6 for single keys and use SX0:3 (and the spot over SX0:2) for the space bar. Unfortunately SX1:5 and SX1:6 do not support LEDs. Would be nice if this also would be possible.

Lets continue the good progress.

so long
Rey

[MOZ]

Just wanted to give a heads up, I'm starting work on an ErgoDox with:
- Correct PCB mount stabs
- Alps + MX switch support
- LED backlit
- Onboard SMD components, so no need for a Teensy.
- Keeping the same form factor, so current cases can be used.

Other suggestions welcome.

[clickclack123]

Just wanted to give a heads up, I'm starting work on an ErgoDox with:
- Correct PCB mount stabs
- Alps + MX switch support
- LED backlit
- Onboard SMD components, so no need for a Teensy.
- Keeping the same form factor, so current cases can be used.

Other suggestions welcome.

Sounds great!

In a post on DT (today  ), czarek said that  ergodox works with ALPS already. He posted a pic as well:

[thadood]

I feel out of the loop - what's the current status of the firmware? I haven't touched the firmware since I put together my round 3 one. I'd like to have media keys and whatnot!

[ic07]

I feel out of the loop - what's the current status of the firmware? I haven't touched the firmware since I put together my round 3 one. I'd like to have media keys and whatnot!

Rev-1 on github supports a few media keys (thanks to judas cleric). Also, cub-uanic ported hasu's firmware to the ergodox a while ago. Rev-2 still doesn't have media keys, but it may in the future

https://github.com/benblazak/ergodox-firmware/blob/master/readme.md

[nerdhack]

Hey, I'm done assembling my ergodox, and have come upon the "left side not working" issue. I read to some threads and followed people's debugging advice, but it's still not working for me. Here's what I've tried:

- Checked all solder joints on connectors, resistors, and IO boards
- Measured VCC across the board, also to the left side, 5v all around
- Checked for continuity between connector pads, all good
- My diodes are correctly oriented on both sides

I'm starting to think "bad IO controller", but I wouldn't know how to verify that. Anything else I should be looking at? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks

[OldDataHands]

There've been several reports of bad TRRS cables. Don't forget each joint on the teensy headers...

[nerdhack]

There've been several reports of bad TRRS cables. Don't forget each joint on the teensy headers...

As stated above, I've tested continuity across both boards on all 4 pads. This would only be true if I connected the cable between the boards, right? So I'm ruling out a bad cable.

I also checked the joints on the teensy, especially PD0 and PD1 as stated in another thread.

EDIT: Just figured out something is odd with the right hand side. All the columns are shifted 1 to the right, so on the right hand the rightmost column "doesn't exist" and the leftmost column the middle row is sending a [ character. If this can help to diagnose my case...

[ic07]

I think it might be time for pics, especially of each controller.  Is the teensy placed where it should be?

[tp4tissue]

does the regular dox pcb work with alps switches?

where do people buy the alps switches?

[AKmalamute]

does the regular dox pcb work with alps switches?

where do people buy the alps switches?

The answer you want is no, but there's a post on DT by Czarek to which I replied. Did you know you can set those switches neatly into holes on the PCB, and they even line up?  Don't get your hopes up, though. That isn't helpful.

I bought my switches from 7bit, of DT fame, but MK has them too, and I bet matias' site sells their own switches to boot.

 Or you can try ebait ... find a board cheap, desolder it, re-solder those salmons or whatever, elsewhere.

[daerid]

Just wanted to give a heads up, I'm starting work on an ErgoDox with:
- Correct PCB mount stabs
- Alps + MX switch support
- LED backlit
- Onboard SMD components, so no need for a Teensy.
- Keeping the same form factor, so current cases can be used.

Other suggestions welcome.

Sounds great!

In a post on DT (today  ), czarek said that  ergodox works with ALPS already. He posted a pic as well:

(Attachment Link)

Oh.... my.....

oh my oh my oh my....

I know what I'm doing with my next ErgoDox :-O

[AKmalamute]

Oh.... my.....

oh my oh my oh my....

Guys ... guys. It won't work. The switches fit because the 'dox uses a single, flippable PCB. They're going into the same pin.

THE SAME PIN

So you could, as I said over there, do this ... but your kbd would have columns, but no rows. Or possibly the reverse I'm not sure but ... aquakeys would fail this arrangement promptly and soundly.

No compatibility. Collect the pieces of your mind, and kindly reassemble them. Now.

[tp4tissue]

Oh.... my.....

oh my oh my oh my....

Guys ... guys. It won't work. The switches fit because the 'dox uses a single, flippable PCB. They're going into the same pin.

THE SAME PIN

So you could, as I said over there, do this ... but your kbd would have columns, but no rows. Or possibly the reverse I'm not sure but ... aquakeys would fail this arrangement promptly and soundly.

No compatibility. Collect the pieces of your mind, and kindly reassemble them. Now.

What do you mean same pin,, it looks like different pins to me?

[yasuo]

Above MX,bottom Matias, i think so...CMIIW