GON's KeyboardWorks - Questions and Answers

[Yazzz]

Does anyone know if a Poker II PCB will fit  the GON NS NerD Crystal 60? Without much modding if possible.

I forget, does the Poker 2 have the dip switches on the bottom?

Yea, it has a set of 4 dipswitches on the bottom

So it will work?

[metafour]

Has anyone received a parts only order from GON recently? If so, what did you order and how long until you received it?

I know he's been taking a while to get assembly orders out and I want to know how that's affected just parts before I decide to place an order.

[xybre]

After 7 months I got an email from GON's automated system claiming my order is in processing. I assume that's a good thing. I'd be great to have the keyboard I ordered and not have to put in a complaint with the payment processor before the time limit is up (9 months). Looking forward to having a fully-programmable keyboard finally.

[mattycee]

After 7 months I got an email from GON's automated system claiming my order is in processing. I assume that's a good thing. I'd be great to have the keyboard I ordered and not have to put in a complaint with the payment processor before the time limit is up (9 months). Looking forward to having a fully-programmable keyboard finally.

yea go ask that guy that was complaining about gon. His username is radio_killah or soemthing in the previous page. He just got his gon and now he's gone from this thread 

[henz]

After 7 months I got an email from GON's automated system claiming my order is in processing. I assume that's a good thing. I'd be great to have the keyboard I ordered and not have to put in a complaint with the payment processor before the time limit is up (9 months). Looking forward to having a fully-programmable keyboard finally.

Got the same mail on Friday, i got about 600 $ worth
Of parts ordered in november and december in joint shipment. Our boards are coming !

[ceflame]

I got the email that my order is processing on Saturday as well. Order from January 18 for acrylic case and 2 bare PCBs and other parts.

[pasph]

I have 2 GON'S, he has many years of perfect kb work on his shoulders and has sold so many kbs everywhere, you can't go wrong with him.

[pichu23]

Mine still shows up as "Preparation in progress" since January. Hoping everything will go smoothly for you guys.
This board is gonna be my project when I get back home to Malaysia this summer, really can't wait for it.

[archer]

Hey GON, ygpm! 

[katushkin]

Hey GON, ygpm! 

He is a lot more active on Skype as he is so busy recently.

You may remain frustrated if you rely on PMs to try and contact him.

[Hiroyuki]

I got an email from him the other day after commenting on my order on his page - he said he had all the parts in stock, just had to send my case for anodizing, so the things should be shipped in about two weeks (i ordered the parts in February) so seems that he is getting orders out faster now than in the last few months 

[Lpwl]

^ this.

I ordered a NS NerD TKL case less than a month ago and paid the invoice only 10 days ago.

GON prepared my order, combined it with another one (some parts and the limited DTA award stamped PCB - ordered in December) and he gave me a voucher for saved shipping cost.

All my items were shipped yesterday.

Five star service !

[Slaine777]

Ok, silly newbie question.  The in switch LED option are the LEDs located in the recess on the switches under the keycaps and the side LED is the lighting in the polycarbonate mid, correct?  What is the on PCB backlighting? 

[Evo_Spec]

Ok, silly newbie question.

1. The in switch LED option are the LEDs located in the recess on the switches under the keycaps
2. the side LED is the lighting in the polycarbonate mid, correct? 
3. What is the on PCB backlighting? 

1. Yes the in-switch LED's are just for the recessed LED spot on the switches.
2/3. Side LED's should be the same as PCB backlighting where the LED's are used to light the polycarbonate layer.

http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/manuals/129-nerd-side-ledsmd-led-soldering.html

[Evo_Spec]

I actually have a question here, i'm pretty sure i know the answer but i'm just looking for some confirmation.

I'm supposed to break this piece off right?


Also i don't have a picture of it atm but the acrylic case at the USB opening has a very thin piece connecting the whole ring (2nd piece from bottom separating plate from bottom piece)
I'm supposed to break that off as well right? If no one understands what i mean then i'll just take a picture.

[Slaine777]

Awesome, thank you.

[Joey Quinn]

I actually have a question here, i'm pretty sure i know the answer but i'm just looking for some confirmation.

I'm supposed to break this piece off right?
(Attachment Link)

Also i don't have a picture of it atm but the acrylic case at the USB opening has a very thin piece connecting the whole ring (2nd piece from bottom separating plate from bottom piece)
I'm supposed to break that off as well right? If no one understands what i mean then i'll just take a picture.

PCB yes, case idk

[ceflame]

I remember breaking the USB part off on accident, so maybe yes. Does the connector fit if the part is still there?

[Evo_Spec]

I actually have a question here, i'm pretty sure i know the answer but i'm just looking for some confirmation.

I'm supposed to break this piece off right?
(Attachment Link)

Also i don't have a picture of it atm but the acrylic case at the USB opening has a very thin piece connecting the whole ring (2nd piece from bottom separating plate from bottom piece)
I'm supposed to break that off as well right? If no one understands what i mean then i'll just take a picture.

PCB yes, case idk

Thanks. I'm going to assume that the PCB just floats there being held in by the solder from the switches?
Also the plate it too thick for the switches to click in, do I need to glue them or something? Or is being soldered to the PCB going to be enough?

I remember breaking the USB part off on accident, so maybe yes. Does the connector fit if the part is still there?

You know, I never tried but now that I think about that, it totally wouldn't fit with that part there.
It's probably just for shipping purposes or something even though GON ships the cases assembled.

[sethk_]

I actually have a question here, i'm pretty sure i know the answer but i'm just looking for some confirmation.

I'm supposed to break this piece off right?
(Attachment Link)

Also i don't have a picture of it atm but the acrylic case at the USB opening has a very thin piece connecting the whole ring (2nd piece from bottom separating plate from bottom piece)
I'm supposed to break that off as well right? If no one understands what i mean then i'll just take a picture.

PCB yes, case idk

Thanks. I'm going to assume that the PCB just floats there being held in by the solder from the switches?
Also the plate it too thick for the switches to click in, do I need to glue them or something? Or is being soldered to the PCB going to be enough?

I remember breaking the USB part off on accident, so maybe yes. Does the connector fit if the part is still there?

You know, I never tried but now that I think about that, it totally wouldn't fit with that part there.
It's probably just for shipping purposes or something even though GON ships the cases assembled.

Soldering them is good enough, but they shouldn't fall out of the plate, they should still need some force to pop out.

[Evo_Spec]

Soldering them is good enough, but they shouldn't fall out of the plate, they should still need some force to pop out.

They fit in snug and don't move around, like I could probably turn it upside down without the switches falling out but it just doesn't seem right lol. If you guys say that's how it is and that it's alright then I'll just go with that lol.
Thanks.

[sethk_]

Soldering them is good enough, but they shouldn't fall out of the plate, they should still need some force to pop out.

They fit in snug and don't move around, like I could probably turn it upside down without the switches falling out but it just doesn't seem right lol. If you guys say that's how it is and that it's alright then I'll just go with that lol.
Thanks.

Thats how my b.face was, snug, and didn't fall out, but didn't snap in. Are you using plate or PCB mount switches? Because I also used PCB mount switches, so they would also snap into the board.

[Evo_Spec]

Soldering them is good enough, but they shouldn't fall out of the plate, they should still need some force to pop out.

They fit in snug and don't move around, like I could probably turn it upside down without the switches falling out but it just doesn't seem right lol. If you guys say that's how it is and that it's alright then I'll just go with that lol.
Thanks.

Thats how my b.face was, snug, and didn't fall out, but didn't snap in. Are you using plate or PCB mount switches? Because I also used PCB mount switches, so they would also snap into the board.

I'm using red plate mounted switches that I harvested from my K95 when I swapped blue ones in.

[sethk_]

Soldering them is good enough, but they shouldn't fall out of the plate, they should still need some force to pop out.

They fit in snug and don't move around, like I could probably turn it upside down without the switches falling out but it just doesn't seem right lol. If you guys say that's how it is and that it's alright then I'll just go with that lol.
Thanks.

Thats how my b.face was, snug, and didn't fall out, but didn't snap in. Are you using plate or PCB mount switches? Because I also used PCB mount switches, so they would also snap into the board.

I'm using red plate mounted switches that I harvested from my K95 when I swapped blue ones in.

That should be fine, as long as they don't fall out

[Evo_Spec]

Soldering them is good enough, but they shouldn't fall out of the plate, they should still need some force to pop out.

They fit in snug and don't move around, like I could probably turn it upside down without the switches falling out but it just doesn't seem right lol. If you guys say that's how it is and that it's alright then I'll just go with that lol.
Thanks.

Thats how my b.face was, snug, and didn't fall out, but didn't snap in. Are you using plate or PCB mount switches? Because I also used PCB mount switches, so they would also snap into the board.

I'm using red plate mounted switches that I harvested from my K95 when I swapped blue ones in.

That should be fine, as long as they don't fall out

I might still use electrical tape or something to make it super snug if I feel uncomfortable with it lol.

[Hiroyuki]

Is it possible to open the switches on a GON NS NerD 108 case without desoldering the switches first?

[Sifo]

Is it possible to open the switches on a GON NS NerD 108 case without desoldering the switches first?

No, not possible on any NS design from GON.

[Hiroyuki]

Is it possible to open the switches on a GON NS NerD 108 case without desoldering the switches first?

No, not possible on any NS design from GON.

Thanks for the super-quick answer
Ok, then I'll have to mod the switches before I solder them in ^^

[FoC_Tow]

I'm about to order a Nerd60 PCB and NS Crystal Case and I have a couple of questions...

First of all which resistors would I use for for On-PCB SMD LED backlighting?

The parts need list under manuals says '13. Resistors for LEDs - 470R for Backlight LEDs(In-Switch or On-PCB), 133R/150R for Side LEDs'.
But I'm confused since On-PCB uses the same SMD LEDs like the Side ones, so shouldn't it be 133R/150R same as those? Is the base voltage different?

Are both of these bottom row layouts supported by the NS Crystal Case? Are there other options?

More

I realized in Lastpilot's Crystal TKL Build Log he mentions he reached out to GON for matching polycarbonate screws.

More

'Screws: If you've ever seen a GON keyboard, you will know why having matching flathead screws is important. The entire design is almost dependent on it. So I wanted mine to match. I wanted them to look seamless. I needed flathead polycorbonate flathead screws. I searched for days. They were not easy to find. Metric, flathead and polycarb? Go fish. Luckily knowing GON and his superb customer service, I reached out to him. He made it happen. Thanks GON.'

Has anyone else asked GON about polycarb screws? Whats the recommended way to contact GON, should I just shoot him a PM about this? 

[henz]

I'm about to order a Nerd60 PCB and NS Crystal Case and I have a couple of questions...

First of all which resistors would I use for for On-PCB SMD LED backlighting?

The parts need list under manuals says '13. Resistors for LEDs - 470R for Backlight LEDs(In-Switch or On-PCB), 133R/150R for Side LEDs'.
But I'm confused since On-PCB uses the same SMD LEDs like the Side ones, so shouldn't it be 133R/150R same as those? Is the base voltage different?

Are both of these bottom row layouts supported by the NS Crystal Case? Are there other options?

More

Show Image

Show Image

I realized in Lastpilot's Crystal TKL Build Log he mentions he reached out to GON for matching polycarbonate screws.

More

'Screws: If you've ever seen a GON keyboard, you will know why having matching flathead screws is important. The entire design is almost dependent on it. So I wanted mine to match. I wanted them to look seamless. I needed flathead polycorbonate flathead screws. I searched for days. They were not easy to find. Metric, flathead and polycarb? Go fish. Luckily knowing GON and his superb customer service, I reached out to him. He made it happen. Thanks GON.'

Has anyone else asked GON about polycarb screws? Whats the recommended way to contact GON, should I just shoot him a PM about this? 

here is a crash course:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/

what you are calculating is resitance for a single led, different colors have different voltages and forward currents, so if you want to use the side leds on the on board leds(plateless build im guessing) then you need the same resistors as you would use on the side led.

[FoC_Tow]

here is a crash course:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/

what you are calculating is resitance for a single led, different colors have different voltages and forward currents, so if you want to use the side leds on the on board leds(plateless build im guessing) then you need the same resistors as you would use on the side led.

Thx for the answer henz!

I've calculated resistors before, but my problem/confusion is more based on the seemingly conflicting information given on GONs website.
I guess it would all make sense tho if the supply voltage for side LEDs is different from the backlight ones, and you could actually calculate that the same way but I'm confused by the given information.

The specs for resistors on GONs website mention:

For NerD Side LEDs of 3V(Green, Blue, Purplish Blue, Pink, White) - 133 Ohm Recommended
For NerD Side LEDs of 2V(Red, Orange, Gold(Yellow)) - 133 or 150 Ohm Recommended

For NerD Switch Backlight LEDs of 2V/3V - 470 Ohm Recommended

So both LED types seem to require the same voltage 2/3V, however the Side LEDs use less ohm which I guess means the supplied Voltage is less for the Side LEDs.
Which would also explain why not to use the same resistors as for the side LEDs when you use the same SMD LEDs for backlighting as stated in GONs parts list...


I actually just did the math and the numbers seem to work out very well so I guess this is the reason. So for example:

Side LED: 2V SMD-LED, 150 Ohm resistor, (20mA) -> supplied V seems to be about 5V
Backlight: 2V LED, 470 Ohm resistor, (20mA) -> supplied V seems to be about 12V

So I guess you would actually use the default 470 Ohm for regular and on-pcb backlight, even tho the same smd LEDs use 150 Ohm when used as side LEDs.
Its pretty much just as described on GONs website but different supplied V confused me a lot... xD

[henz]

here is a crash course:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/

what you are calculating is resitance for a single led, different colors have different voltages and forward currents, so if you want to use the side leds on the on board leds(plateless build im guessing) then you need the same resistors as you would use on the side led.

Thx for the answer henz!

I've calculated resistors before, but my problem/confusion is more based on the seemingly conflicting information given on GONs website.
I guess it would all make sense tho if the supply voltage for side LEDs is different from the backlight ones, and you could actually calculate that the same way but I'm confused by the given information.

The specs for resistors on GONs website mention:

For NerD Side LEDs of 3V(Green, Blue, Purplish Blue, Pink, White) - 133 Ohm Recommended
For NerD Side LEDs of 2V(Red, Orange, Gold(Yellow)) - 133 or 150 Ohm Recommended

For NerD Switch Backlight LEDs of 2V/3V - 470 Ohm Recommended

So both LED types seem to require the same voltage 2/3V, however the Side LEDs use less ohm which I guess means the supplied Voltage is less for the Side LEDs.
Which would also explain why not to use the same resistors as for the side LEDs when you use the same SMD LEDs for backlighting as stated in GONs parts list...


I actually just did the math and the numbers seem to work out very well so I guess this is the reason. So for example:

Side LED: 2V SMD-LED, 150 Ohm resistor, (20mA) -> supplied V seems to be about 5V
Backlight: 2V LED, 470 Ohm resistor, (20mA) -> supplied V seems to be about 12V

So I guess you would actually use the default 470 Ohm for regular and on-pcb backlight, even tho the same smd LEDs use 150 Ohm when used as side LEDs.
Its pretty much just as described on GONs website but different supplied V confused me a lot... xD

ah i had no idea it was not the same voltage(Need to bring out my multimeter more), as usb original voltage is 5v,I guessed i just assumed that the in switch leds had lower forward current and/or voltage. But then if its 12v then you need atleast 3v/20ma leds to match the 470 resistors. or 2v/20ma with 560

[FoC_Tow]

Is there any way to buy polycarbonate screws for your keyboards? I can't find any M3x12mm ones anywhere! Maybe there is better availability in S. Korea?

Maybe something like this?

Show Image

Yes I can get them in Korea.(But what I can buy is not - but +)
But they are expensive, and are not sold in small qty.
100 pcs of them are sold at about $20(including domestic shipping and tax in Korea).

So if I proxy them for you, your cost will be about $22(including transaction fee) + shipping.

I have the same question regarding polycarbonate screws GON.
(After seeing how amazing Lastpilot's Crystal with polycarb screws looks its hard to imagine using anything else)  =D

Is it still possible to order these from you, are they still available?
When I place my order for a crystal, can i just specify 'plus 100 polycarb screws' in the notes for example?

I can't wait to finally order, but this has been holding me back since I tried to avoid shipping twice... =)

[Evo_Spec]

Is there any way to buy polycarbonate screws for your keyboards? I can't find any M3x12mm ones anywhere! Maybe there is better availability in S. Korea?

Maybe something like this?

Show Image

Yes I can get them in Korea.(But what I can buy is not - but +)
But they are expensive, and are not sold in small qty.
100 pcs of them are sold at about $20(including domestic shipping and tax in Korea).

So if I proxy them for you, your cost will be about $22(including transaction fee) + shipping.

I have the same question regarding polycarbonate screws GON.
(After seeing how amazing Lastpilot's Crystal with polycarb screws looks its hard to imagine using anything else)  =D

Is it still possible to order these from you, are they still available?
When I place my order for a crystal, can i just specify 'plus 100 polycarb screws' in the notes for example?

I can't wait to finally order, but this has been holding me back since I tried to avoid shipping twice... =)

After looking at this, have you asked Last to see if he maybe has the other 90-something extra screws that he could sell? lol

[gravenshard]

Is there any way to buy polycarbonate screws for your keyboards? I can't find any M3x12mm ones anywhere! Maybe there is better availability in S. Korea?

Maybe something like this?

Show Image

Yes I can get them in Korea.(But what I can buy is not - but +)
But they are expensive, and are not sold in small qty.
100 pcs of them are sold at about $20(including domestic shipping and tax in Korea).

So if I proxy them for you, your cost will be about $22(including transaction fee) + shipping.

I have the same question regarding polycarbonate screws GON.
(After seeing how amazing Lastpilot's Crystal with polycarb screws looks its hard to imagine using anything else)  =D

Is it still possible to order these from you, are they still available?
When I place my order for a crystal, can i just specify 'plus 100 polycarb screws' in the notes for example?

I can't wait to finally order, but this has been holding me back since I tried to avoid shipping twice... =)

After looking at this, have you asked Last to see if he maybe has the other 90-something extra screws that he could sell? lol

Yeah go ask lastpilot, he sold me some last month.

[FoC_Tow]

After looking at this, have you asked Last to see if he maybe has the other 90-something extra screws that he could sell? lol

Yeah go ask lastpilot, he sold me some last month.

Thx a lot for the help guys! 
Last actually reached out to me yesterday and offered some of his screws! Thx so much again Last! 

I had already send my order to GON tho, asking for screws in the comments, and just got an interesting reply that kinda raised new questions... xD

GON mentioned:
'As for polycarb screws, they are a little bit short... so you have to take care when fastening with them... This is why I don't sell them.
(If you need them I can get you as I did for Lastpilot. Don;t worry. ) $25 will be added for 100pcs of PC bolts.'

In the meantime, I also found a German shop specialized on synthetic screws which happens to have polycarb screws.

They have countersunk M3 pc screws in up to 25mm length, so I'm wondering if they would actually work even better and what the recommended length for a Crystal NS Case would be?
(They have 10.8 - 12.8 - 15 - 18 - 20 and 25mm lenghts for example...)
Does anyone know what the standard length of the metal screws would be?

[Lpwl]

After looking at this, have you asked Last to see if he maybe has the other 90-something extra screws that he could sell? lol

Yeah go ask lastpilot, he sold me some last month.

Thx a lot for the help guys! 
Last actually reached out to me yesterday and offered some of his screws! Thx so much again Last! 

I had already send my order to GON tho, asking for screws in the comments, and just got an interesting reply that kinda raised new questions... xD

GON mentioned:
'As for polycarb screws, they are a little bit short... so you have to take care when fastening with them... This is why I don't sell them.
(If you need them I can get you as I did for Lastpilot. Don;t worry. ) $25 will be added for 100pcs of PC bolts.'

In the meantime, I also found a German shop specialized on synthetic screws which happens to have polycarb screws.

They have countersunk M3 pc screws in up to 25mm length, so I'm wondering if they would actually work even better and what the recommended length for a Crystal NS Case would be?
(They have 10.8 - 12.8 - 15 - 18 - 20 and 25mm lenghts for example...)
Does anyone know what the standard length of the metal screws would be?

From GON's website and my own observation with my NS case (not a NS Crystal one) :



12mm should be the right lenght.

[litesung]

Does Gon offer an option for Cherry Stabilizers for a HHKB configuration?  I'm having trouble finding images to compare the SpaceBar switch position, and which one is usually used on most keyboards

[Azumia]

I think I screwed something up when I ordered.

This is the keyboard I ordered - The NS NerD TKL.

I ordered this acrylic case as well; This and this was the look I was going for. In that second link, the guy says that what he has is the acrylic housing.

However, the screws don't line up and it's pretty obvious that I somehow made a mistake (or I'm a giant idiot, I'm not sure which) because the acrylic case I received is not compatible with my NerD TKL.

Did I order the wrong one?

[ceflame]

I think I screwed something up when I ordered.

This is the keyboard I ordered - The NS NerD TKL.

I ordered this acrylic case as well; This and this was the look I was going for. In that second link, the guy says that what he has is the acrylic housing.

However, the screws don't line up and it's pretty obvious that I somehow made a mistake (or I'm a giant idiot, I'm not sure which) because the acrylic case I received is not compatible with my NerD TKL.

Did I order the wrong one?

Hey, that second link is mine! Post some pictures of what you received so we can see.

[ceflame]

I think I understand you now. You ordered a completed/soldered NerD TKL from GON right?

You can't swap over the pcb/metal plate from the NS Nerd TKL over to the acrylic housing AFAIK. To use the acrylic housing, you need to assemble the PCB using the acrylic plate.
 
You probably need to buy another NerD TKL PCB to use the acrylic housing, or you would have to desolder all the switches from the NS Housing top plate/pcb and redo it using the acrylic plate.

[Azumia]

I think I understand you now. You ordered a completed/soldered NerD TKL from GON right?

You can't swap over the pcb/metal plate from the NS Nerd TKL over to the acrylic housing AFAIK. To use the acrylic housing, you need to assemble the PCB using the acrylic plate.
 
You probably need to buy another NerD TKL PCB to use the acrylic housing, or you would have to desolder all the switches from the NS Housing top plate/pcb and redo it using the acrylic plate.

Yeah, I did order it fully assembled. :<

I couldn't tell from any of the pictures I found; I thought it was similar to a Poker II case where you could just swap them around however you wanted. I'm super happy with my new keyboard, but I wish I had known so I didn't waste the money on an acrylic case I wouldn't be able to use. D:

[azhdar]

is there a place on the website to preview the housing colors?
also I don't under the "Anodizing type" what does it changes?

[yobinad]

Here is a link with information about aluminium anodizing

[azhdar]

Yeah but I mean what is he anodizing?

[Joey Quinn]

is there a place on the website to preview the housing colors?
also I don't under the "Anodizing type" what does it changes?

There are two choices for anodizing, hard and soft. Hard anodizing is a grey to dark grey depending on the aluminum alloy you are using, it's also a much harder coating which means it's more scratch resistant. Soft anodizing allows you to choose colors but because it's softer it's easier to scratch. If you want grey choose hard and if you want a color choose soft. There is an album of the colors somewhere but I don't know where.

[azhdar]

is there a place on the website to preview the housing colors?
also I don't under the "Anodizing type" what does it changes?

There are two choices for anodizing, hard and soft. Hard anodizing is a grey to dark grey depending on the aluminum alloy you are using, it's also a much harder coating which means it's more scratch resistant. Soft anodizing allows you to choose colors but because it's softer it's easier to scratch. If you want grey choose hard and if you want a color choose soft. There is an album of the colors somewhere but I don't know where.

Alway assumed the case were acrylic now I get it, thanks Joey.

[FoC_Tow]

From GON's website and my own observation with my NS case (not a NS Crystal one) :

Show Image

12mm should be the right lenght.

Much Thanks Lpwl!  :)

Can you tell if there is still a little extra room left? I could order 10.8 or 12.8mm but im scared I might have to sand them all down to fit... xD

is there a place on the website to preview the housing colors?
also I don't under the "Anodizing type" what does it changes?

There are two choices for anodizing, hard and soft. Hard anodizing is a grey to dark grey depending on the aluminum alloy you are using, it's also a much harder coating which means it's more scratch resistant. Soft anodizing allows you to choose colors but because it's softer it's easier to scratch. If you want grey choose hard and if you want a color choose soft. There is an album of the colors somewhere but I don't know where.

Alway assumed the case were acrylic now I get it, thanks Joey.

On acrylic cases you can usually select the color of all acrylic Layers,
on NS cases you can choose the type (and color for soft) of alu top and bottom anodizing,
and for the Crystal you can only choose the bolt/screw anodizing color since the case is always frosted/clear. (polycarbonate)  =)

[Lpwl]

From GON's website and my own observation with my NS case (not a NS Crystal one) :

Show Image

12mm should be the right lenght.

Much Thanks Lpwl!  :)

Can you tell if there is still a little extra room left? I could order 10.8 or 12.8mm but im scared I might have to sand them all down to fit... xD

is there a place on the website to preview the housing colors?
also I don't under the "Anodizing type" what does it changes?

There are two choices for anodizing, hard and soft. Hard anodizing is a grey to dark grey depending on the aluminum alloy you are using, it's also a much harder coating which means it's more scratch resistant. Soft anodizing allows you to choose colors but because it's softer it's easier to scratch. If you want grey choose hard and if you want a color choose soft. There is an album of the colors somewhere but I don't know where.

Alway assumed the case were acrylic now I get it, thanks Joey.

On acrylic cases you can usually select the color of all acrylic Layers,
on NS cases you can choose the type (and color for soft) of alu top and bottom anodizing,
and for the Crystal you can only choose the bolt/screw anodizing color since the case is always frosted/clear. (polycarbonate)  =)

No room left, sadly nop !

[FoC_Tow]

No room left, sadly nop !

Thx for checking Lpwl! =)