I recommended this board to my aunt years ago as a cheap way to get into mechanical keyboards. It looks like variants of it are still available on Amazon for less than $40 shipped in the continental U.S.
I obviously liked it in no small part due to it being a Corsair K70 knockoff. The entire board is surprisingly light for how thick the aluminum plate is, at least when compared to a real K70. It also flexes more than I would expect from a similar board, but it still barely flexes at all which I would say is admirable for such a dirt cheap keyboard. Flex is not something I care about at all, but I know some do. The cable is not removable, but it seems to be of acceptable quality and stress relief for just about any price point. It is definitely thicker than most cheap boards, thicker than the removable cable included with the Fnatic Mini Streak that I have nearby that retails for about $100 (given that the Fnatic has Cherry switches and the Eagletech has Outemu blues).
I was surprised to find that the boards come with decent ABS double shots.
The main reason for my having decided to post this is in case anyone has one of these bargain bin Chinesium boards that has failed in some way and wants to take a crack at fixing it. For my aunt's board, the t key stopped registering at all within about a year of use and it sat around somewhere unused for a while as a result. I find it likely that others have had a similar problem. I have done a quick edit of an ugly shot of the top of the board to highlight where all of the necessary screws are in red. One of them is, unfortunately, beneath the metal logo on the plate ... just like a Corsair. It won't be easy removing it without marring the plate, logo, or both. I didn't have an ideal flathead handy so this one has a nick in both now. Once you've gotten them all, the bottom of the casing will separate without the use of any force. I didn't get a picture, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that the cable was attached to the PCB via an easily-removable JST connector and not soldered directly to the PCB.
I didn't get any shots of the switch legs/pads before I started messing with them, but the solder on one of them did look a little drier than the rest of them. I tried removing whatever cheap solder was used from both legs of the t switch and the pad for the leg that looked dry fell right off. The other one cleaned right up and I was able to apply fresh solder without issue. Maybe the factory applied too much heat, or force, or the PCB is just cheap. Whatever the case is, that pad was useless and must have been the cause of the failure. I did the usual lazy method of soldering some scrap wire to the good pad and shorted it to nearby pads until I found the closest one that would give me an output of t, removed my test wire, soldered a jumper wire and all was well once more.
It still seems like a pretty good value to me for a cheap board if you like clicky switches, especially if you're either handy with a soldering iron or want to become so. Outemu blues are just about tied for me with Gateron for best MX/clone clicky. Their cheap/base linears and tactiles suck though.
