Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP) (Read 3497026 times)

Erisie · « **Reply #16650 on:** Sat, 14 November 2020, 21:08:53 »

A friend of mine recently bolt-modded my old Model M. The old barrel frame was broken, so we ordered a new one from Unicomp. Some keys on the ZXC row (X, B and sometimes N) are registering two keypresses from time to time.

What's causing this behaviour? Overtight bolts? Faulty membrane? Broken hammer springs? I also replaced the controller board for a new one.

fohat.digs · « **Reply #16651 on:** Sat, 14 November 2020, 21:14:30 »

Quote from: Erisie on Sat, 14 November 2020, 21:08:53

Overtight bolts?

That would be my first guess. You have replaced small shafts of soft plastic with steel. I never tighten more than "barely finger tight" because you only need to re-create the original state, not exceed it.

Alga · « **Reply #16652 on:** Tue, 17 November 2020, 05:58:54 »

Can some clear for me the difference between EC and MX?

I was looking at this https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109635.0;topicseen and there is EC all over the place.

I am confused because there is specific EC plate and PCB but from the housing of the switches the contacts seem the same.

user 18 · « **Reply #16653 on:** Tue, 17 November 2020, 18:38:10 »

Quote from: Alga on Tue, 17 November 2020, 05:58:54

Can some clear for me the difference between EC and MX?

I was looking at this https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109635.0;topicseen and there is EC all over the place.

I am confused because there is specific EC plate and PCB but from the housing of the switches the contacts seem the same.

From what I've read, the difference is not in the physical arrangement of the switch pins, but in how the controller reads out the matrix. MX & compatible switches make an electrical connection between two contacts when the switch is actuated, but the EC switches don't ever bring the two contacts together. Instead, depressing the switch moves two parallel plates closer together, changing the capacitance of the circuit (more similar to how Topre switches work electrically). I'd guess that you could physically replace a MX switch with an EC switch without trouble, until you actually wanted a keypress to register.

Getting the keys to work would require more a complex controller and firmware than a standard MX or compatible switch, since capacitive sensing of an EC switch would require analog reads, configuration of thresholds, etc., while MX-compatible switches use simpler digital logic and the controller's standard logic thresholds. It might be possible to replace the controller on a MX-compatible board with a capacitive one, but things like trace layout can have more of an impact.

You may be interested in the info in this thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94239.0

Madrossi9 · « **Reply #16654 on:** Mon, 23 November 2020, 22:04:02 »

Whick one would you buy? (Quality wise)
Keychron K8 aluminum hot swappable/ Gateron browns / new PTB keycaps

Or

GMMK Glorious hot swappable board / Glorious Panda switch / Glorious Aura key cap (PBT, pudding)

Or

DUCKY ONE 2 RGB

Same price around A$200

Thanks

Jaratic · « **Reply #16655 on:** Tue, 24 November 2020, 01:57:26 »

What are the different types of hotswap sockets available? (like the Gateron, Kalih sockets) And what are the switches that support those hotswap sockets?

w2312 · « **Reply #16656 on:** Thu, 26 November 2020, 23:50:35 »

Is there any difference in quality between the translucent keycaps(pudding) from KBDfabs and the aura keycaps from GMMK?

SmoothFaces · « **Reply #16657 on:** Sun, 29 November 2020, 19:04:53 »

Thank you so much for all this answers. Really helps

retoid · « **Reply #16658 on:** Thu, 03 December 2020, 11:33:50 »

Would anyone happen to know of any DSA caps I could get in darker colors to replace these two ALT and CTRL keycaps on the Leopold FC980M?
I've got some DSA Dolch Double Shot keys coming but they do not include these sizes.

user 18 · « **Reply #16659 on:** Thu, 03 December 2020, 12:20:50 »

Quote from: retoid on Thu, 03 December 2020, 11:33:50

Would anyone happen to know of any DSA caps I could get in darker colors to replace these two ALT and CTRL keycaps on the Leopold FC980M?
I've got some DSA Dolch Double Shot keys coming but they do not include these sizes.

Show Image

SP sells single DSA caps in a wide variety of colours, you may be able to find a match: https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-1-space-pack-of-10/
E: can also order dyesub singles: https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-individual-keys-sublimated/

retoid · « **Reply #16660 on:** Thu, 03 December 2020, 12:31:59 »

Quote from: user 18 on Thu, 03 December 2020, 12:20:50

Quote from: retoid on Thu, 03 December 2020, 11:33:50
Would anyone happen to know of any DSA caps I could get in darker colors to replace these two ALT and CTRL keycaps on the Leopold FC980M?
I've got some DSA Dolch Double Shot keys coming but they do not include these sizes.

Show Image

SP sells single DSA caps in a wide variety of colours, you may be able to find a match: https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-1-space-pack-of-10/
E: can also order dyesub singles: https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-individual-keys-sublimated/

Awesome! Thank you so much, that should be perfect.

Urthor · « **Reply #16661 on:** Wed, 09 December 2020, 03:53:10 »

Anyone know about repairing water damage on a 2011 Realforce/Topre PCB?

I dumped a whole bunch of water on mine and the capacitor for the 5 and F4 keys are not responding, despite stripping the board down to the PCB and no obvious residue.

Whether using the spring or my finger the contacts refuse to register. I haven't used any electrical cleaner or alcohol yet and I still have the option of waiting a week for the board to dry out and pray.

but if anyone knows any other tricks for fixing water damage in integrated circuits I'd really appreciate it.

https://i.imgur.com/cAIhr.jpg for reference this is what a Topre switch looks like w/o the dome.

spunc1 · « **Reply #16662 on:** Tue, 15 December 2020, 07:05:35 »

I'm trying to find something as close to Smith and Rune Iron165 as possible. That board is absolutely gorgeous and I cannot stop thinking about it. I don't have $2200 to drop on it at mechmarket either so I'll have to find a middle ground, but it's hard to find.

https://cannonkeys.com/products/gb-smith-rune-iron165-keyboard

hwood34 · « **Reply #16663 on:** Sun, 20 December 2020, 02:38:35 »

you have to use the diffuser/gasket with the TX1800 v2 case right? I like the v1 look without one far more.

KeyRelic · « **Reply #16664 on:** Thu, 24 December 2020, 10:33:38 »

Are Novelties keys in GMK GB sets also double shot?

Learis · « **Reply #16665 on:** Tue, 29 December 2020, 23:09:59 »

I just noticed that some keysets release with this random "B" key that is in the same row as the spacebar. What is that meant for?

Edit: Nevermind, it seems to just be an extra B key for those split keyboard layouts, makes sense.

LightningXI · « **Reply #16666 on:** Thu, 31 December 2020, 07:10:57 »

Quote from: KeyRelic on Thu, 24 December 2020, 10:33:38

Are Novelties keys in GMK GB sets also double shot?

Normally, yes, if they're indeed only two color.

Faill · « **Reply #16667 on:** Mon, 04 January 2021, 00:19:17 »

I want to build a keyboard but I use the numpad on my keyboard all the time. I was wondering if there is a way to build a high quality keyboard while also having a numpad. Are there any nice cases/pcbs for full sized keyboards? What about for numpads?

yqqdrasil · « **Reply #16668 on:** Mon, 04 January 2021, 08:46:18 »

Is desoldering in-switch LEDs and resoldering them a bad idea? I know it's possible but I'm assuming it's not best practice as the wires are clipped & I might solder +/- in the wrong orientation or maybe for some other reason I can't think of at the moment.

ab042896 · « **Reply #16669 on:** Wed, 06 January 2021, 22:33:52 »

Quote from: yqqdrasil on Mon, 04 January 2021, 08:46:18

Is desoldering in-switch LEDs and resoldering them a bad idea? I know it's possible but I'm assuming it's not best practice as the wires are clipped & I might solder +/- in the wrong orientation or maybe for some other reason I can't think of at the moment.

I would say it depends how close they are clipped to the surface of the PCB. Also depending on the LED, you might be able to detect orientation by looking through the lens at the anvil and post arrangement (the opposite ends of the cathode and anode "wires" that are located within the LED's lens).
Another option entirely is to simply purchase new LEDs to replace your old ones. There are several LED form factors that are compatible with MX switches, and they can run as little as a 10 cents a piece to as little as couple cents per piece, especially if you source them through Digikey, Mouser, etc.

ab042896 · « **Reply #16670 on:** Wed, 06 January 2021, 22:38:32 »

Do R5 cherry profile spacebars exist in any capacity?

I like R5 but R4 spacebars look silly next to an otherwise completely R5 row of keycaps IMO

ideus · « **Reply #16671 on:** Wed, 06 January 2021, 23:38:11 »

Quote from: ab042896 on Wed, 06 January 2021, 22:38:32

Do R5 cherry profile spacebars exist in any capacity?

I like R5 but R4 spacebars look silly next to an otherwise completely R5 row of keycaps IMO

I have some OG Cherry sets that have R5 bottom row and the profile of their space bars are the same as other sets with R4 bottom row mods. Based on that, I may conclude that there is no such thing as an R5 space bar design.

Learis · « **Reply #16672 on:** Wed, 06 January 2021, 23:43:30 »

I'm about to get some durock silent switches in. Is it safe to lube the dampening pads or should I be meticulous in avoiding them? Also, I had a small amount of tribosys 3204 and Krytox 205g0 left so I decided to mix both into one new concoction. I didn't bother to think whether some chemical reaction between the two would ruin them in some way. Is it safe to do this or does it ruin the lubricant?

LightningXI · « **Reply #16673 on:** Thu, 07 January 2021, 09:11:33 »

Quote from: ideus on Wed, 06 January 2021, 23:38:11

Quote from: ab042896 on Wed, 06 January 2021, 22:38:32
Do R5 cherry profile spacebars exist in any capacity?

I like R5 but R4 spacebars look silly next to an otherwise completely R5 row of keycaps IMO

I have some OG Cherry sets that have R5 bottom row and the profile of their space bars are the same as other sets with R4 bottom row mods. Based on that, I may conclude that there is no such thing as an R5 space bar design.

This is correct. There's no specific profile for spacebars. Spacebars are simply just their own kind of convex keys.

yqqdrasil · « **Reply #16674 on:** Thu, 07 January 2021, 13:23:33 »

Quote from: ab042896 on Wed, 06 January 2021, 22:33:52

Quote from: yqqdrasil on Mon, 04 January 2021, 08:46:18
Is desoldering in-switch LEDs and resoldering them a bad idea? I know it's possible but I'm assuming it's not best practice as the wires are clipped & I might solder +/- in the wrong orientation or maybe for some other reason I can't think of at the moment.
I would say it depends how close they are clipped to the surface of the PCB. Also depending on the LED, you might be able to detect orientation by looking through the lens at the anvil and post arrangement (the opposite ends of the cathode and anode "wires" that are located within the LED's lens).
Another option entirely is to simply purchase new LEDs to replace your old ones. There are several LED form factors that are compatible with MX switches, and they can run as little as a 10 cents a piece to as little as couple cents per piece, especially if you source them through Digikey, Mouser, etc.

Thanks, the board currently has 2x3x4 box type LEDs (according to the FAQ). I know theres issues with different LED sizes and clearance from certain keycap profiles, if I were to buy new LEDs should I buy the same box type ones? I didn't seem to have any issue with OEM/Cherry caps using the 2x3x4 ones my Terminus 2 came with.

I guess these might work:
https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-100pcs-colors-Emitting-Assorted/dp/B01AUI4W0U/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=2x3x4%2BBlue%2BLED&qid=1610047215&sr=8-2&th=1

chordsplitter · « **Reply #16675 on:** Fri, 08 January 2021, 06:01:43 »

2 questions:

what combo of plate/case material/keycap profile/switches would get me a super deep sound out of my keyboard?
Are there any cases similar to the S7 elephant that I can acquire? (chunky bezels)

Neprawdda · « **Reply #16676 on:** Mon, 11 January 2021, 11:44:47 »

Good day. I want to make my own cable. But I don't know what it's called. To buy.
And if anyone knows in advance thanks, where you can buy it.

kalzu · « **Reply #16677 on:** Wed, 13 January 2021, 02:03:00 »

Hi,

I'm going to be building Ergodone. I just seem unable to find any build guides on it. So any information about it would be highly appreciated.

First and foremost, have I understanded correctly that I should use 5V Pro Micro?

Thanks,
-K

paashaas · « **Reply #16678 on:** Thu, 14 January 2021, 04:36:49 »

I am searching where I can, but I cannot find 80% 87 key keyboard case.
I am new so I am searching for a relative cheap one, where can I possibly find these?

noverbeck80 · « **Reply #16679 on:** Mon, 18 January 2021, 05:45:12 »

I have a B.face PCB and case that I'd like to deconstruct and put in another case. I don't care for the sandwich design. Does anyone know if the PCB is standard 60% and compatible with most plates and cases? Most likely looking at the KBDFans TOFU

whezil · « **Reply #16680 on:** Mon, 18 January 2021, 06:01:53 »

Has anyone ever tried to make a full metal(aluminium/brass etc) switch either by using molds or CNC and been successful?

user 18 · « **Reply #16681 on:** Mon, 18 January 2021, 17:51:16 »

Quote from: whezil on Mon, 18 January 2021, 06:01:53

Has anyone ever tried to make a full metal(aluminium/brass etc) switch either by using molds or CNC and been successful?

You mean where the stem, housing, and everything are all metal? I can't see how that would work electrically, at the very least you would need some insulating material between two pieces that are supposed to make contact, or change capacitance, or however you want such a switch to trigger.

whezil · « **Reply #16682 on:** Mon, 18 January 2021, 23:54:40 »

Quote from: user 18 on Mon, 18 January 2021, 17:51:16

Quote from: whezil on Mon, 18 January 2021, 06:01:53
Has anyone ever tried to make a full metal(aluminium/brass etc) switch either by using molds or CNC and been successful?

You mean where the stem, housing, and everything are all metal? I can't see how that would work electrically, at the very least you would need some insulating material between two pieces that are supposed to make contact, or change capacitance, or however you want such a switch to trigger.

Yep, everything. In particular I meant a mechanical switch. If any part were to be made out of aluminium and further anodized then that part would not conduct electricity. So in principle you could replicate an entire switch.

Millbean · « **Reply #16683 on:** Sat, 23 January 2021, 12:47:11 »

For my next board I want to do a stepped caps lock and put in an LED indicator to show when caps is on or off. I have seen a Wildcat video where he kind of does this but it’s not explained at all. In video it looks like he takes little Mill max sockets and solders those to the caps lock position on the board and then puts the switch on the board. He then puts the LED legs through the little slot on the switch and into those mill max sockets on the board.

Questions:

1.   Are these positions on the PCB that support through hole LEDS (like Caps lock, scroll lock, etc.) already set up and working when they ship the board to me? Meaning, can I just solder a LED to this position and it will automatically work when toggled on and off?
2.   If its not already set up by the manufacturer what do I have to do to get it working and can I use VIA to do this.
3.   On LED, one leg is longer than the other. Which leg goes in which hole. I don’t have a PCB in front of my but I think I remember that one of the LED through holes is in the shape of a square and the other is a circle. Do I put the longer leg through the square hole and the shorter one through the circle? I just don’t know which leg is positive or negative.
4.   If I cannot use VIA then I assume the only thing to do is use regular QMK and how would I go about programming the LED

My first board was the Drop Alt and honestly QMK just looked like a headache so every board I got after that I made sure used VIA so I didn’t have to mess with Hex files and flashing boards and all that other crap. Some clear information, or some knowledgeable help on this topic would be greatly appreciated. Or if you know of a good YouTube video to point me to that would help too. Thanks in advance.

Cash · « **Reply #16684 on:** Wed, 27 January 2021, 19:49:52 »

I am having some difficulty finding some full sized custom mechs.

Could anybody help if they know of any? Thanks

jact · « **Reply #16685 on:** Fri, 19 February 2021, 21:46:31 »

Hi I am looking for a place where I can buy a board with all the different switches to see which one sounds good and I like. And if I do buy the switches do they ever come out with new ones?

Abhorrent Cell · « **Reply #16686 on:** Wed, 24 February 2021, 23:36:09 »

Quote from: jact on Fri, 19 February 2021, 21:46:31

Hi I am looking for a place where I can buy a board with all the different switches to see which one sounds good and I like. And if I do buy the switches do they ever come out with new ones?

Best bet is likely to get a sampler from various manufacturers. Such as Zeal or Kailh or gateron. To my understanding though, a lot of switches aren't available in sample packs and tend to be one-off group-buy-only type of things. And even group-buys for the same switch tend to have variations.

Abhorrent Cell · « **Reply #16687 on:** Wed, 24 February 2021, 23:37:26 »

Can anyone recommend me a wood keyboard case maker? I hit up lxkhn on r/mm as well as woodkeys.click and neither got back to me. Trying to get a wood case for Southpaw 65.

Thanks!

thebossbaby39 · « **Reply #16688 on:** Thu, 25 February 2021, 08:40:30 »

I currently have a Varmilo TKL keyboard (Varmilo EC Switch Sea Melody) which I'd like to swap out the PCB. The reason is that I'd like to keep the case and keycaps but change the switches.

Unfortunately the PCB used for the EC switches are incompatible with MX switches so I can't just desolder it.

Does anyone know if there are any PCBs that are compatible with the Varmilo TKL cases? Or how I can work around this?

Mynome · « **Reply #16689 on:** Thu, 25 February 2021, 16:53:58 »

I will lube a switch with a pretty generous amount of lube and it still sounds somewhat scratchy when held up to my ear. I'm new to lubing switches, so i dunno if im doing something wrong, lol.

Leopard223 · « **Reply #16690 on:** Thu, 25 February 2021, 20:47:07 »

Quote from: Mynome on Thu, 25 February 2021, 16:53:58

I will lube a switch with a pretty generous amount of lube and it still sounds somewhat scratchy when held up to my ear. I'm new to lubing switches, so i dunno if im doing something wrong, lol.

Well it still make contact with the housing/leaf so there will be sound, should sound smoother.

As long as the switch is smoother then you're fine.

dmi · « **Reply #16691 on:** Fri, 26 February 2021, 19:03:40 »

I consider to purchase R2 from Japanese website.

Are there any differences compare to US keyboard (except layout)?

AJPlus · « **Reply #16692 on:** Mon, 08 March 2021, 08:00:13 »

Not sure if I'm using the thread right, but I'm pretty new and was thinking of using kbd fans tofu kit, would you say that's a good starting point or should I suck it up and buy a soldering iron

AJ

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #16693 on:** Tue, 09 March 2021, 02:05:43 »

Quote from: AJPlus on Mon, 08 March 2021, 08:00:13

Not sure if I'm using the thread right, but I'm pretty new and was thinking of using kbd fans tofu kit, would you say that's a good starting point or should I suck it up and buy a soldering iron

AJ

If you're planning on trying a few different switches hotswap is the way to go, if you know what you want get a soldering iron. Soldering keyboard switches is an easy first project, desoldering them is where it can go wrong.

Protato · « **Reply #16694 on:** Thu, 11 March 2021, 11:57:12 »

Seems like a dumb question, but for the life of me I can't figure this out. How do I change my signature to include a clickable picture of for example:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109342.0, or https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=111516 ?

Never really used forums for anything and I feel like asking a question like this clearly shows that.
Thank you in advance.

retoid · « **Reply #16695 on:** Thu, 11 March 2021, 13:13:28 »

Quote from: Protato on Thu, 11 March 2021, 11:57:12

Seems like a dumb question, but for the life of me I can't figure this out. How do I change my signature to include a clickable picture of for example:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109342.0, or https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=111516 ?

Never really used forums for anything and I feel like asking a question like this clearly shows that.
Thank you in advance.

Click on Profile, Summary. Then click Modify Profile. Forum Profile. Scroll down a bit and you will see Signature: This is where you can add information/pics/links in your signature.

Protato · « **Reply #16696 on:** Fri, 12 March 2021, 08:38:50 »

Quote from: retoid on Thu, 11 March 2021, 13:13:28

Quote from: Protato on Thu, 11 March 2021, 11:57:12
Seems like a dumb question, but for the life of me I can't figure this out. How do I change my signature to include a clickable picture of for example:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109342.0, or https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=111516 ?

Never really used forums for anything and I feel like asking a question like this clearly shows that.
Thank you in advance.

Click on Profile, Summary. Then click Modify Profile. Forum Profile. Scroll down a bit and you will see Signature: This is where you can add information/pics/links in your signature.

I've gotten to that part, but for some reason still can't attach a picture.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #16697 on:** Fri, 12 March 2021, 10:04:01 »

Quote from: Protato on Fri, 12 March 2021, 08:38:50

Quote from: retoid on Thu, 11 March 2021, 13:13:28
Quote from: Protato on Thu, 11 March 2021, 11:57:12
Seems like a dumb question, but for the life of me I can't figure this out. How do I change my signature to include a clickable picture of for example:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109342.0, or https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=111516 ?

Never really used forums for anything and I feel like asking a question like this clearly shows that.
Thank you in advance.

Click on Profile, Summary. Then click Modify Profile. Forum Profile. Scroll down a bit and you will see Signature: This is where you can add information/pics/links in your signature.

I've gotten to that part, but for some reason still can't attach a picture.

This is correct - you can't attach a picture there. You could attatch one to a reply in this thread then right click it and 'copy [whatever your browser says that's like address]' then in your signature box you put [ img]paste address here[/img] without the space after the first [ and it will appear.

AJPlus · « **Reply #16698 on:** Mon, 15 March 2021, 13:57:59 »

Trying to set up my first group buy, what's the best resource to get me started?

Spookie · « **Reply #16699 on:** Sat, 03 April 2021, 04:03:30 »

Is there an 8000 Hz polling rate keyboard pcb?


120/100g linear Zealio R1 GMK Hyperfuse 'Split everything' perfection	MX Clear SA Hack'd by Geeks EasyAVR mod

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Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP) (Read 3497026 times)