The Slanck. What could go wrong using the plate as a wire?

[jal]

Really like this project, congrats on it.

I have trouble believing that there have been 3034 reads and nobody's suggested renaming it The Stank.

[cribbit]

Really like this project, congrats on it.

I have trouble believing that there have been 3034 reads and nobody's suggested renaming it The Stank.

Thanks!

Now I'm thinking of making a butt shaped layout...

[Griftrix]

Hello!

I am currently trying to solve my RGB backlight problem as well.  The most promising thing I've found is this http://www.instructables.com/id/Charliecube-Charlieplexed-4x4x4-RGB-LED-cube/

That's 16 pins to control 64 RGB LEDs.  We just have to rearrange it to be not a cube shape.  I personally only need 62 RGB LEDs for my keyboard layout, and I'm sure you need considerably less.  The trick to lighting LEDs that are behind the other ones that you normally can't access seems to be turning them on and off really fast in concert .  I'm still learning this stuff, so I don't know what I'm doing yet.  EE is not a skill I have yet.  I'd love to solve this one.

-Griftrix

[cribbit]

Hello!

I am currently trying to solve my RGB backlight problem as well.  The most promising thing I've found is this http://www.instructables.com/id/Charliecube-Charlieplexed-4x4x4-RGB-LED-cube/

That's 16 pins to control 64 RGB LEDs.  We just have to rearrange it to be not a cube shape.  I personally only need 62 RGB LEDs for my keyboard layout, and I'm sure you need considerably less.  The trick to lighting LEDs that are behind the other ones that you normally can't access seems to be turning them on and off really fast in concert .  I'm still learning this stuff, so I don't know what I'm doing yet.  EE is not a skill I have yet.  I'd love to solve this one.

-Griftrix

Nice find!

I'm definitely hoping to get back into trying to solve the RGB problem, especially for being able to do it with a teensy/pro micro + breadboard since not everyone has access to PCB options. It also meshes well with my next project of focusing on infinity mirrors.

[switchnollie]

Nice one

Looks like a lot of effort was put into this.

[jowe]

Indeed - this looks awesome! And thanks for the insight into different cutting and fabrication machines & processes.

Looking forward to your next chunk of free time & update!

[cribbit]

I did another copy of the 60% version, this time with even prettier wiring.

Moving on to revisiting the chunk of metal case!

First question - What's the smallest board that can be a controller?

[cribbit]

So I've got a bigass chunk of metal for my plate



and a wiring plan



The controller will end up going in the empty space on the left.

In order for the chunk of metal to just sit flat on the desk I'll need to cut channels in the metal with a dremel. Not too bad but I want to minimize the number of cuts I have to make. I also want to avoid having overlapping channels, which means routing the column tracebacks (from end of col to the controller) along the top and bottom edges. With 12 proper columns that means 6 wires each in top/bottom.

The issue is the outside pair of keys, namely the one far from the controller. If I want to get that key all the way back to the controller then I need to add yet another long traceback wire.

What I was thinking was to instead just connect that pin to the case, and the case to the two switches.

Is this really dumb? I think it should work. Nothing else in the circuitry should be touching the case and the case will be on a wooden desk.

[regack]

I really just have no idea, but I don't imagine the signal getting through there very well.  You could just make the first and last columns have 5 keys each. 


edit: I was also going to suggest maybe using small gauge magnet wire for your interconnects, so you don't have to grind away as much with the dremel.

[cribbit]

I really just have no idea, but I don't imagine the signal getting through there very well.  You could just make the first and last columns have 5 keys each. 


edit: I was also going to suggest maybe using small gauge magnet wire for your interconnects, so you don't have to grind away as much with the dremel.

I only have 4 rows, can't make a 5 long col.

I'm already going to use ridiculously thin wire.

[regack]

I really just have no idea, but I don't imagine the signal getting through there very well.  You could just make the first and last columns have 5 keys each. 


edit: I was also going to suggest maybe using small gauge magnet wire for your interconnects, so you don't have to grind away as much with the dremel.

I only have 4 rows, can't make a 5 long col.

I'm already going to use ridiculously thin wire.

Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking...  sorry. 

How about making 13 columns, with the lines following a kind of J pattern or a ( pattern, and either the last or first column with only 2 keys?

I guess that would suck for cutting notches with the dremel as well.  I'm just randomly throwing out ideas, sorry, I still don't know about your actual question of wiring it to the plate itself. 

I'd say just... it right now just as a test, using a teensy or something, with keys in those two locations.  Worst case is... well... it doesn't work.  I don't think it'll fry anything.

[cribbit]

I really just have no idea, but I don't imagine the signal getting through there very well.  You could just make the first and last columns have 5 keys each. 


edit: I was also going to suggest maybe using small gauge magnet wire for your interconnects, so you don't have to grind away as much with the dremel.

I only have 4 rows, can't make a 5 long col.

I'm already going to use ridiculously thin wire.

Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking...  sorry. 

How about making 13 columns, with the lines following a kind of J pattern or a ( pattern, and either the last or first column with only 2 keys?

I guess that would suck for cutting notches with the dremel as well.  I'm just randomly throwing out ideas, sorry, I still don't know about your actual question of wiring it to the plate itself. 

I'd say just... it right now just as a test, using a teensy or something, with keys in those two locations.  Worst case is... well... it doesn't work.  I don't think it'll fry anything.

Haha I've done similar brain farts!

I've considered doing columns that weren't straight lines. The issue is as you said, the channels that are then cut are worse.

At this point I want do do the case-as-a-wire just to see if I can, since nothing jumps out at me as making it impossible.

[cribbit]

The current wiring plan is to try to use the colorful wire from the nice 60% build for the rows/cols and then some 46ga enameled wire for the tracebacks (connecting rows/cols back to the controller).

The colorful wiring is too thick to put multiple strands next to eachother in the tracebacks. Luckily the rows and cols never have to cross while over the plate, only while over the switch. Thus their channels can be at the same depth.

I am still thinking about whether I'll need some sort of glue or resin to hold the traceback wires in. I'm hoping that I can make "bridges" over the traceback channel - use a cutting wheel to make 1-2" of channel, then a 1mm gap before continuing the channel, and using a ball end bit to make a hole under the gap.

I will also need to be very careful that no areas of wire get stripped from being put into the channels.

Controller is being shipped in a month, wire should be here soon. I'm getting excited!

[regack]

Can you put up a mini-review/impressions of the controller once you get it?   

[ErgoMacros]

(a little late to this discussion)

I think using the case to replace a single wire should be fine... low voltage and amps. Lower resistance than your body so no "desire" for the electricity to flow through you.

Might not get it UL approved, and in an abundance of caution I wouldn't take into the bath.

 

This is a very cool looking project. Very creative.

[dorkvader]

(a little late to this discussion)

I think using the case to replace a single wire should be fine... low voltage and amps. Lower resistance than your body so no "desire" for the electricity to flow through you.

Might not get it UL approved, and in an abundance of caution I wouldn't take into the bath.

 

This is a very cool looking project. Very creative.

Using the case as a ground connection is fine, using it as a signal is not. While it's not inherently dangerous (the strobe from the microcontroller is very low current: not going to hurt anything) touching it will likely mess up the sensing, especially if you're grounded. Touching it in the winter with static will also mess up the sensing.

So I expect it to work, but be finicky especially when you touch it.

You'll also not be shielded anymore, so it'll be more susceptible to interference (and emit more as well) but in practice with completely open keyboards it's fine. So no UL or FCC Cert, but that won't be an issue.