GLWR(estoration)
I like these threads, they're generally interesting, although you should pimp it out. Solid gold body, 16" alloys, underskirt lighting.
It is a shame that both boards are missing Left Shift. That will be a bit harder to find than standard keys.
You should bolt-mod and pimp out one of the boards, and leave the other one dead-stock for compare and contrast.
Nice work so far.
Thanks for posting up the detailed photos and info, this could come in handy some day!!
Last weekend (13..14-Jul-2013) I decided to clean the keycaps, not having a 5.5mm socket driver and thus unable to open either case.
It was a simple matter of removing the keycaps:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/48QhOk7.jpg)
Digging out the denture tablets:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xavsPvL.jpg)
The keyboards were actually fairly clean - almost no dust on the black plate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eQqhOSs.jpg)
Soak the keycaps in hot (not boiling) water with 3 denture tablets:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hAt9OsO.jpg)
Until the water turns clear:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hejvR9x.jpg)
(although for the second keyboard, the water actually turned brown)
Then leave hte keycaps on a sheet of newspaper or similar to dry:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kcSmi3K.jpg)
The results were surprisingly good, although there is no photo due to bad light (been raining most of the day).
I did discover that one space bar had lost one of the clips that holds the stabiliser bar on - so a space bar is added to the list of keycaps I need to get.
Having tried an old NEC mechanical keyboard, MX blue, black and red, and recently Topre in the form of a HHKB 2 Pro, I was wondering about buckling spring. The opportunity arose to acquire two Model M keyboards in reasonably clean condition, albeit with some missing keycaps and neither with a cable, and in unknown operational condition.
They were found, bid, won and collected in the same day, all for $31 plus a few minutes or my time to pick them up.
The first one, the older of the two, was born 02-Mar-1993. It is a 51G8572 with a detachable cable (which someone detached and lost), and is PS/2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dODngLe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8aZzdjJ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/K4vAxS5.jpg)
And the younger one, by two years, from 29-Nov-1995. THis one is a 52G9658, has a non-detachable cable (which someone has detached anyway with a pair of wire cutters), and is also PS/2.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CKRM0Wr.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g62vRsb.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FbsAdA2.jpg)
The following posts will probably detail my efforts to see if they work, replace the missing bits, and actually put them to use.
It is more a record for myself, to keep all the information in one place, but might be of interest or information to someone else.
How did the legends disappear? :-\
I feel like a complete noob, oh wait, I am one.
It is a shame that both boards are missing Left Shift. That will be a bit harder to find than standard keys.
Watching this thread with interest :D. Have you ordered replacement keys yet?
Someone also found a "broken" Model M on eBay in Australia which I might try to get to harvest the key caps, although knowing me I would try to fix that one too, then still need more key caps for the one I have.
That's the number one problem with collecting Model M's
Nice work rowdy! :thumb:
Requirements:
- time
- money
- keycaps
- USB adapter
- coloured underlay, preferably yellow
With the USB controller and underlay available from Phosphorglow, and caps available from Unicomp, the only part you have to do yourself is the bolt mod. I actually prefer the screw method instead of bolts. I have a drill press, which is infinitely easier than trying to drill straight holes by hand. If you can borrow some time on someone's drill press I would highly recommend it.
I found that a local fastener supplier was my best bet for screws. This is almost certainly going to be the case for you down under.
Time: 6+ hours first time, half that with experience
Money: $80+ = $30 base set caps + $20 extra caps + $20 Teensy + $10 hardware (mail order from China)
Keycaps: included above - a full regular Model M set is required, plus well over a dozen extra keys
USB: Soarer's Teensy is the easy reliable way, there are cheaper ways to go
underlay(?): if you mean the barrel plate, that is easy to paint.
I would stuff each chimney with paper from behind, so that I could paint the flat surfaces nice and heavy without risking gumming up the action of the stems.
Unicomp sells blank 122 sets, but I wanted printed. I'm not sure if they sell a full printed pearl and pebble set (plus the few extra keys required due to the ANSI mod).
Phosphorglow makes an underlay sheet that fits over the barrel plate.
There are drill (press) stands into which you attach your existing hand drill which are less expensive, but not as sturdy or accurate, as a proper drill press.
Unicomp sells a complete printed Model M keycap set for $30, a fraction of the price of the pieces bought individually. To that you need to add another F1-F-10, and F-13-F24, plus 1 more for whatever you plan to have in the center arrow position. Be mindful of the alternating colors of the function key set, you can either match the upper row to the lower row, alternate with it, or have them all the same.
It did not occur to me that you could simply lay down a background sheet! That would be easy with a hole punch.
Alternatively I might look at getting a Dremel or similar.
As for keycaps, if I can get hold of a set of original M122 keycaps that would be perfect.
I quickly gave up and went to ebay.
Went for the screw mod method myself and purchased "100 Pcs Stainless Steel Hex Socket Knurled Cap Head Bolts Screws M2x6mm Black" from welcomebuy (http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/wellcomebuy?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) ($6.41 free post ~3wk wait) without running around is a bit hard to beat.
Just a different way of doing the same thing. It appealed to me because I considered it to be more discrete and as they are replacing plastic pins, I don't believe there to be enough tension to warrant a screw and nut. Either way it's more about what you feel happy doing.I quickly gave up and went to ebay.
Went for the screw mod method myself and purchased "100 Pcs Stainless Steel Hex Socket Knurled Cap Head Bolts Screws M2x6mm Black" from welcomebuy (http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/wellcomebuy?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) ($6.41 free post ~3wk wait) without running around is a bit hard to beat.
Bookmarked, thanks :)
Although I'm yet to be convinced of the benefits of screw-modding in contradistinction to bolt-modding.
These don't look very screw-like to my unpracticed eye, I was imagining something like self-tapping screws. What size hole did you drill for them?
I used these cheapies from China. They got here in just under 3 weeks, presumably shipping to Oz would be faster but maybe not.
Some people talk about "poor quality" Chinese hardware, but, hell, you are replacing decades-old plastic with steel so there should be a large margin of error in there ....
I like using nuts and "bolts" (machine screws, of course) because I feel like I have a lot more control with the nuts. I have found that a 1/16" drill bit (living in the Empire measurements) works perfectly with M2 screws but a 1.5mm bit is probably OK (marginally smaller). The 1/16" hole is just slightly undersized and a straight machine screw will cut its way in beautifully and snugly. I usually press a small Philips head screwdriver to the head of the hole to flare it out just slightly to accept the beginning of the screw. Self-tappers in that size range are weird and lame.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251634690247?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=550538684398&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251634690247?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=550538684398&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Any idea how many bolts would be needed for an M122?
Most sellers, including this above one, seem to sell in packs of 50.
Also the time for them to arrive doesn't matter - based on the amount of free time I've had recently it will take me more than three weeks to disassemble the keyboard, clean it, and drill all the holes.
and not sure what to put on the extra key above the numpad Enter
Looking for a Teensy for my Model M 122 conversion. I'll probably end up mounting it inside the case with a USB port on the back somewhere.
Anyway, which Teensy?
I can get a Teensy++ 2.0 for AUD$50.67 - https://littlebirdelectronics.com.au/collections/teensy/products/teensy-2-0
Or a Pro Micro ATmega32U4 from eBay for about AUD$5 - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/140972980117?hash=item20d2a4f795:g:MTwAAOSw241YfeGn
Suggestions welcome :)
Also how do you program it? Most Model M/F USB conversions note that a Teensy is involved, but most don't give any specifics about what and how.
Also how do you program it? Most Model M/F USB conversions note that a Teensy is involved, but most don't give any specifics about what and how.
No return (beyond the point of).
No return (beyond the point of).
Whoa! You left the stems in when you separated the layers.
That is messy. Taking stems in and out is a pain, but it is necessary. If you have problems with re-assembly, all the stems will have to come off and go back with each iteration.
I've seen a link somewhere but can't find it now - how do you remove the legs from the upper part of the case? They have metal springs and I don't want them to rust when I give the case a bath too.
I've seen a link somewhere but can't find it now - how do you remove the legs from the upper part of the case? They have metal springs and I don't want them to rust when I give the case a bath too.
There are a few parts, and if you push the plastic towards the outside you can get the inside of the spring out of the groove that holds it in place and pull it out of the way. Then you can push the long plastic part out. It takes a lot of effort and you may fear that you are breaking it. Not quite as bad as opening an AT, however.
I recommend taking a few photos, the pieces are hard to get back in the right configuration. Both sets are the same, but they have to go back in mirror image right and left. The sleeves and tubes have a flat side that only goes one way.
Thanks for that
Thanks for that
Wait - maybe the long axles with the discs on the end are different and off-center. You can only make it work one way, anyway.
I gave it a bit of a pinch and a bit of a push yesterday, but nothing wanted to move. I'll inspect it more closely tonight.
Do you mean the key stems from the barrel plate?Ignore that, I was back a page with what I was replying to.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for that
Wait - maybe the long axles with the discs on the end are different and off-center. You can only make it work one way, anyway.
Still need to make some sort of frame to support it while I am putting it back together.
Still need to make some sort of frame to support it while I am putting it back together.
A few pieces of scrap wood and some nails can make the job a lot easier.
Hehehehe
another reason for to go screw mod
except one or two where the bolts didn't line up 100% with the holes in the metal plate
But ... someone forgot to put the little rubber tubes back in the sides of the barrel plate before putting all the other bits back on. Are they critical?
There does seem to be a very slight variation across some parts of the board, like the side edges and top, but overall it seems quite good.
And to find replacement keycaps for the ones that are missing, which are a few more than I originally thought.
Ooo, how did I miss this thread?! Impatiently waiting for more 122 photos :)
There does seem to be a very slight variation across some parts of the board, like the side edges and top, but overall it seems quite good.
And to find replacement keycaps for the ones that are missing, which are a few more than I originally thought.
With a bolt mod you have the option of "tuning" by tightening various areas to different compressions. The front edge is difficult if you are using nuts and you might have to clip off some of the ridges. Regardless, I always populate that front (space bar) line, but many people don't. Otherwise, remember that compressing the center of the line of curvature will tend to open up the far edges, so maybe loosen the center areas while tightening the edges - possibly the opposite of what seemed intuitive at first.
An ANSI conversion takes at least a half dozen caps, and if you replace the navigation cluster and left function keys it can easily be 2 dozen or more. For US customers, a full Model M set of caps from Unicomp (@$30) is about as cheap and easy as simply filling in the gaps a la carte, but for you literally all the way around the world, the shipping probably makes that prohibitive.
A logical and/or cheap person knows that he can only use one keyboard at a time, so you could just swap in the keys in question from another Model M which is not in use, and spend $0 additional.
I also acquired a left Shift, but not an ANSI Enter. The ,, and .. keys on the terminal keyboard need to be replaced with the more conventional ,< and .>, and [{ ]} \| are also different sized and absent from my collection.
I noticed that the front of the case didn't close properly any more, most likely due to the bolts sticking through further as the plastic is thinner along the front lip of the barrel plate.
I also acquired a left Shift, but not an ANSI Enter. The ,, and .. keys on the terminal keyboard need to be replaced with the more conventional ,< and .>, and [{ ]} \| are also different sized and absent from my collection.
I noticed that the front of the case didn't close properly any more, most likely due to the bolts sticking through further as the plastic is thinner along the front lip of the barrel plate.
ANSI Enter and \| are usually the hardest to find, along with Left Shift and Control.
You can use a Dremel to grind deeper the depressions on the inside bottom of the case to gain another mm or so of clearance for the screws.
a vintage item,
a vintage item,
After you get into the Model F, you realize that a Model M is a mostly plastic, modern-ish keyboard rather than a "vintage item" ....
You are almost there! 35/95 INSIDE? OMG Do you at least have fans to keep the air moving?
A few of those caps look like they came off of a Wheelwriter typewriter. Too bad those aren't a better source for the rest.
Also too bad you are literally all the way on the other side of the world, I have a couple of those sockets that I showed in my outboard converter box guide, but you can buy them off ebay from China far cheaper than the postage that it would take me to mail them to you.
Great work on the Model F! This is inspiring me to get out my own Model F and reburb it.
Sorry, this is a Model M.
I wish I had a Model F, but they are quite difficult to find down here.
Sorry, this is a Model M.
I wish I had a Model F, but they are quite difficult to find down here.
Whoops! Apologies for the typo.
The ones closer to the ideal size were metal - harder to make holes in.
The ones closer to the ideal size were metal - harder to make holes in.
I have had good success with the metal ones. They are aluminum and quite easy to drill, plus they look and feel better.
Plastic ones tend to crack when you make larger holes in them.