Rowdy's Model M refurbishment

[rowdy]

Having tried an old NEC mechanical keyboard, MX blue, black and red, and recently Topre in the form of a HHKB 2 Pro, I was wondering about buckling spring.  The opportunity arose to acquire two Model M keyboards in reasonably clean condition, albeit with some missing keycaps and neither with a cable, and in unknown operational condition.

They were found, bid, won and collected in the same day, all for $31 plus a few minutes or my time to pick them up.

The first one, the older of the two, was born 02-Mar-1993.  It is a 51G8572 with a detachable cable (which someone detached and lost), and is PS/2.







And the younger one, by two years, from 29-Nov-1995.  THis one is a 52G9658, has a non-detachable cable (which someone has detached anyway with a pair of wire cutters), and is also PS/2.







The following posts will probably detail my efforts to see if they work, replace the missing bits, and actually put them to use.

It is more a record for myself, to keep all the information in one place, but might be of interest or information to someone else.

[Tym]

GLWR(estoration)

I like these threads, they're generally interesting, although you should pimp it out. Solid gold body, 16" alloys, underskirt lighting.

[rowdy]

Last weekend (13..14-Jul-2013) I decided to clean the keycaps, not having a 5.5mm socket driver and thus unable to open either case.

It was a simple matter of removing the keycaps:



Digging out the denture tablets:



The keyboards were actually fairly clean - almost no dust on the black plate:



Soak the keycaps in hot (not boiling) water with 3 denture tablets:



Until the water turns clear:



(although for the second keyboard, the water actually turned brown)

Then leave hte keycaps on a sheet of newspaper or similar to dry:



The results were surprisingly good, although there is no photo due to bad light (been raining most of the day).

I did discover that one space bar had lost one of the clips that holds the stabiliser bar on - so a space bar is added to the list of keycaps I need to get.

[rowdy]

GLWR(estoration)

I like these threads, they're generally interesting, although you should pimp it out. Solid gold body, 16" alloys, underskirt lighting.

Thanks for that!

Never mind about the gold body, or even gold plating, I'm just hoping to save up for some replacement keycaps and a cable or two

[rowdy]

Neither keyboard has a cable.  One has an SDL socket, so I'll probably get one of orihalcon's SDL/USB cables.

The other one has about 5cm remaining of a snipped non-detachable cable.  The plan is to replace that cable with one salvaged from an old rubber dome keyboard.

Unfortunately none of my sockets were small enough to fit in the holes in the back of the Model M, and the ones that were small enough to fit were to small to actually fit over the screw head.  Off to eBay again.

Well, this evening my 5.5mm socket driver from China arrived!



With the right tool it only took a few minutes to separate the case halves and extract what is left of the cable.



Earlier in the week I salvaged this cable from an old rubber dome keyboard.  It already has not only a ferrite bead, but a ground connector too!  It's also beige!



Now it is just a case of finding pinouts for both connectors (some information has already been found), and cutting and soldering the two together.

[fohat.digs]

It is a shame that both boards are missing Left Shift. That will be a bit harder to find than standard keys.

You should bolt-mod and pimp out one of the boards, and leave the other one dead-stock for compare and contrast.

Nice work so far.

[SpAmRaY]

Thanks for posting up the detailed photos and info, this could come in handy some day!!

[rowdy]

It is a shame that both boards are missing Left Shift. That will be a bit harder to find than standard keys.

You should bolt-mod and pimp out one of the boards, and leave the other one dead-stock for compare and contrast.

Nice work so far.

At this stage I don't know if either of them works.  The plan is to do as little as possible until I know they actually work, then go from there.

The way is pretty clear to remaking the PS/2 cable, but I'll have to dig an old computer out of retirement to test it in the absence of a PS/2 to USB adaptor.

It's nearly $50 for me to get a SDL/USB cable - that will probably come after the keycaps, once I find out whether the cabled M works.

Thanks for posting up the detailed photos and info, this could come in handy some day!!

I hope so!

If there's anything in particular anyone you like to see a picture of, let me know and I'll try to oblige.

[MOZ]

Last weekend (13..14-Jul-2013) I decided to clean the keycaps, not having a 5.5mm socket driver and thus unable to open either case.

It was a simple matter of removing the keycaps:

Show Image

Digging out the denture tablets:

Show Image

The keyboards were actually fairly clean - almost no dust on the black plate:

Show Image

Soak the keycaps in hot (not boiling) water with 3 denture tablets:

Show Image

Until the water turns clear:

Show Image

(although for the second keyboard, the water actually turned brown)

Then leave hte keycaps on a sheet of newspaper or similar to dry:

Show Image

The results were surprisingly good, although there is no photo due to bad light (been raining most of the day).

I did discover that one space bar had lost one of the clips that holds the stabiliser bar on - so a space bar is added to the list of keycaps I need to get.

Having tried an old NEC mechanical keyboard, MX blue, black and red, and recently Topre in the form of a HHKB 2 Pro, I was wondering about buckling spring.  The opportunity arose to acquire two Model M keyboards in reasonably clean condition, albeit with some missing keycaps and neither with a cable, and in unknown operational condition.

They were found, bid, won and collected in the same day, all for $31 plus a few minutes or my time to pick them up.

The first one, the older of the two, was born 02-Mar-1993.  It is a 51G8572 with a detachable cable (which someone detached and lost), and is PS/2.

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

And the younger one, by two years, from 29-Nov-1995.  THis one is a 52G9658, has a non-detachable cable (which someone has detached anyway with a pair of wire cutters), and is also PS/2.

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

The following posts will probably detail my efforts to see if they work, replace the missing bits, and actually put them to use.

It is more a record for myself, to keep all the information in one place, but might be of interest or information to someone else.

How did the legends disappear? 

[rowdy]

How did the legends disappear? 

The legends did not actually disappear.

Older buckling spring keycaps come in two parts - the stem that fits into the hole on the keyboard and connects to the spring, and a cover with the legend printed on it.

There's quite a good picture illustrating it here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45327.msg949831#msg949831

Newer buckling spring keycaps are one piece i.e. removing the keycap will take the entire stem with it.

[rowdy]

Forgot to mention, I found these rattling around inside the case when I opened it.  Wonder how much I could get if I sold them on eBay?



Candidate for a bolt mod?  Perhaps.  Once the operational state is confirmed.

[MOZ]

I feel like a complete noob, oh wait, I am one.

[rowdy]

Mainly from here and here, I have come up with the following:

PS/2:
    yellow = pin 5 = clock
    red = pin 1 = data
    green = pin 4 = +5V
    white = pin 3 = ground

IBM 4 pin connector:
    red = clock
    yellow = data
    black = +5V
    white = ground

So I should be able to connect (PS/2 to IBM) yellow to red, red to yellow, green to black and white to white.

White is the same, red/yellow are swapped - a standard would be nice.  Although the nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.

I have also dug the old soldering iron out, and the solder,

Now whether to just join the ends of the wires together (I never quite got the hang of doing that), or use a teeny tiny section of breadboard instead?  Breadboard easier, but splicing neater (with heat shrink tubing, I should dig that out too).



Or I could just be lazy and tin the end of the wire from the IBM plug, insert them into the respective sockets in the PS/2 socket and wrap some tape around it.

[rowdy]

I feel like a complete noob, oh wait, I am one.

Not at all!

The Model M is different to most modern keyboards in that respect.  I did not know this either, until I actually got my Model Ms and had to start learning about them.

[rowdy]

It is a shame that both boards are missing Left Shift. That will be a bit harder to find than standard keys.

Another thought about this - I could get the RGB modifiers from Unicomp - problem solved!

With the RGB modifiers, I would just be missing the Caps Lock to make a single full set of keycaps.

Next update: I have confirmed the pinouts summarised above from two different online sources (although I don't know if the two online sources just copied each other).

Next is to warm the old soldering iron up.

[rowdy]

Yesterday was apparently the coldest July day Melbourne had experienced since 2006, or something like that.  Last night was cold, this morning was about 5 degrees.  It seemed an appropriate time to start soldering.

First up was to tin the wires on what is left of the IBM plug (tinning, for those unfamiliar with it, is the process of applying a little solder to the bare end of the wire.  This serves to stop the wire from fraying while soldering it to something else, and to help the solder flow onto the wire later on):



Then to extract the connectors from the keyboard end of the PS/2 cable, so I could snip the wires as close to the connector as possible:



Then a bit more tinning:



Next up was to connect bare wire ends, REMEMBERING to put the heat shrink tubing on FIRST (I remembered this time, but I have forgotten in the past, and it is so annoying to have to undo a good joint just to put the tubing on):



Not too bad - one down, three to go:



All done:



Then to slide the heat shrink tubing over the joins and shrink it (weird stuff, I still can't get used to it):



Now instead of just having the cable sticking directly out the back of the case, a grommet is needed.  Why not reuse the one that was there before?  The 5cm or so of wires that remained slid quite easily out of it, but the plastic (actually felt more like rubber) insulation seemed to be glued into the IBM grommet - kind of expected as it is supposed to stop the cable from being pulled out, which would pull the wires out of the connector inside the keyboard.  Nevertheless, with a bit of encouragement - out it came:



The IBM cable was flattish, the new cable is round, so a little snip with a knife and some deft drilling of the inside of the grommet was required, after which it was a reasonable fit:



By the way I cannot recommend getting one of these strongly enough, either that or grow an extra pair of arms:



It fits, with the case top on it should hold it sufficiently firmly.  I am not one to pull keyboard cables wantonly:



Everything screwed in, time to put the case top back on:



Next up is to find an old computer with a PS/2 port and see if the Model M actually works.  As it is nearly lunch time, that might have to be a job for next weekend.

[rowdy]

Of course the question everyone is asking is: does it work?

The fact that you can read this post is a testimony to the fact that yes!  It works!!!

I have transferred what keycaps I can from the other Model M to this one, plugged it in to my old games machine, booted (three times - first time it hung during bootup, not a good sign, but it turned ot to be a loose video connection, second time was when I plugged the network cable in, third bootup is still operating).

I do miss the left Shift key - guess what?  I don't use the right Shift much, but hadn't realised it.  Now I have a keyboard without left Shift I realise how much I miss it.

So ... so far so good.  Now to find that keyboard test program, install it, and see what it thinks.

I have noticed that some of the keys in the middle row seem a bit "loose", whereas ones like W and E seem really tight, meaning that WE have more of a short tick sound, whereas much of the rest of the keyboard is more of a tock sound.  Perhaps this is a result of the rivets which have fallen off.

What do I think of it?  It feels really nice - like blues, a bit stiffer, with a more solid feel to it, and definitely more noise, especially from the space bar.  I'm makine more typing mistakes, but that is maybe partly due to the missing left Shift (so I am constantly shifting finger attention to the right side of the keyboard), and also due to the fact that the keyboard is balanced on the edge of the desk.

But the classic pearl/pebble look, the size and the sound is just so fantastic!!!

Thank you everyone who has offered assistance and encouragement in this thread and elsewhere.

There is more to go though.  There is the second Model M to go (which might just need an SDL/USB cable to get it going), plus a set or two of keycaps, plus maybe a bolt mod to one or both.

[strafe]

Watching this thread with interest .  Have you ordered replacement keys yet?

[rowdy]

Watching this thread with interest .  Have you ordered replacement keys yet?

Not yet.

The first one works (left Shift and Caps Lock are unknown).

The second one is missing a SDL cable, and I just ordered a SDL/USB cable.  It should arrive in a couple of weeks.

Then I can find out if the second Model M works, which will let me know how many keycap sets I need.

[rowdy]

Damnit, I just lost that whole post.  Stupid Chrome wouldn't post, as happens some times, and I thought I copied the text, but obviously not >:|

So ... today I got this SDL to USB cable from orihalcon:



Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to play with the first (call it the PS/2) Model M as it is connected to an old computer that I have to separately start up to use, as opposed to my Mac which is on all the time (and is USB only).

Now I have the SDL to USB cable, I can hopefully try the second (call it the USB) Model M on the Mac (maybe on the old computer first in case it short circuits something) and see if it works.

Then I will know if I need one or two sets of keycaps.

[rowdy]

So I powered on the old test PC this evening and let it warm up while I had dinner.

Then I tried AquaKeyTest on the PS/2 Model M - every key worked (Caps Lock and Left Shift are unknown as there are no keys on there, just bare springs).

Next I connected the new SDL to USB cable to the USB Model M and connected it.  Windows went through the new hardware setup, and ... it worked!

So I transferred the missing keycaps from the PS/2 Model M to the USB one, including the stems for Caps Lock and left Shift (without either of those keys present), and tried AquaKeyTest again - all worked!

So I connected the USB Model M to my Mac, and it went through its new keyboard routine.  Then I swapped Ctrl and Win around (not that there is a Win key, so no Option key), and it works!

Typing this on the Model M, connected to the Mac.  It is huge compared to the HHKB - need to rearrange the desk, but that might be a job for after the house move.

Also this one feels tighter than the other one - the PS/2 Model M seems a bit more rattly, whereas the keys on the USB Model M seem stiffer and more precise.  Perhaps more of the rivets are intact - I haven't opened this one up yet to see.

Typing on this is actually quite nice, although several times noisier than the Ducky with MX blues.  It is also a very satisfying feeling

[rowdy]

It's not much of an update, but I have found the few odd key caps needed to complete the first Model M, plus I have some PS/2 to USB adaptors on the way (again - let's hope these ones don't stop off for an indefinite holiday on the way).

Someone also found a "broken" Model M on eBay in Australia which I might try to get to harvest the key caps, although knowing me I would try to fix that one too, then still need more key caps for the one I have.

Using the Model M with SDL to USb adaptor on the Mac and it hasn't missed a beat.  Only once or twice I have missed having an Option key (Alt is mapped as Command).

[Elrick]

Someone also found a "broken" Model M on eBay in Australia which I might try to get to harvest the key caps, although knowing me I would try to fix that one too, then still need more key caps for the one I have.

That's the number one problem with collecting Model M's you always feel you can harvest the parts from one to fix the other then you decide to fix BOTH of them.  Been there, done that,  ............unfortunately.

They are like classic cars that are getting harder and harder to find and when you get an extra one, I couldn't rip it apart and start cannibalizing it for the other keyboard.  I was stuck with a few non working Model-M's.  Maybe one day I'll start fixing one to see how it works.

[fohat.digs]

That's the number one problem with collecting Model M's

In my opinion, the number one problem with collecting Model Ms is that there are certain crucial pieces that tend to be missing or broken, while you accumulate a surplus of the less desirable items.

Collecting cheaper terminal boards exacerbates that problem.

[rowdy]

I missed the Model M on eBay - even though I sniped it someone else bid slightly higher.  I did not want to bid more than it would cost me to get a set of keycaps from Unicomp, so I am ok with that.

What did arrive today was the Caps Lock, left Shift and space bar from flynn!  Thanks flynn - extremely well packaged, and no damage whatsoever









This has allowed me to complete the first of the Model M, which I have been using on my Mac for the last few weeks without a single problem (apart from not being able to wake the Mac from sleep by pressing a key, but it is simple to just click the mouse), and only occasionally missing the Option key.

Next up is to get a full set of keycaps from Unicomp to complete the other Model M, and then take one of them in to work.

[rowdy]

Necroing my own thread, because

So here I posted about receiving one of Cindy's used SSKs.

This one is used, as expected, but very dirty, which seems to be a common trait amongst others who received similar keyboards from the same batch.

It does include all keycaps, although about 5 are two piece, the rest are single piece.  Curiously it has an assortment of Ctrl and Alt keys on it, one piece and two piece, and different legends.  I no complain - all keycaps are there

Anyway this one needs a good clean.  and it was rattling slightly when I unpacked it.

I opened the case, and found this inside:



A quick look at the barrel plate confirms dirt level 8:





A few loose rivets occupied the lower half of the case, and rubbing my hand across the metal plate liberated a few more from their place of rest;



Keycap removal revealed the few two piece keycaps, but also a lot more dust and dirt, plus maybe a couple of small liquid spills:





Keycap cleaning was the first order of the day:





Soaked in warm water and three denture tablets (as above), then individually lightly scrubbed with an old toothbrush and rinsed in clean, cool water.  Then spread out on some old newspaper to dry.







It seems a bolt mod will be inevitable at some stage, but I lack tools (specifically a slow speed drill and something to hold it steady).  I would prefer to practice my first bolt mod on something less expensive, such as the second of my original full size Model M keyboards.

But for now I aim to clean the barrel plate as best I can, put the keycaps back on, and just use it.

[rowdy]

Cleaning done!

The keycaps cleaned up nearly perfectly, as usual.

The case even cleanup very well, including most of the texta on the bottom gone!

Still not 100% perfectly clean, but about as good as it's going to get without fully disassembling and bolt modding it, which I didn't want to do just yet.





Unfortunately the Shift keys and Enter still stick when pushed down.  That definitely needs to be fixed before the keyboard can be used.

ALl keys are one piece except these:



And an interesting assortment of legends on Ctrl and Alt:





All in all it came out looking pretty good, and the crack in the case doesn't seem to affect stability:

[infiniti]

Nice work rowdy!

[rowdy]

Nice work rowdy!

Thanks

[DamnDan]

Wow Rowdy that is magnificent work! It's good to see a person taking care of older keyboards

For the missing parts of case you should try the old japanese method of repair with gold




Would be kewl to see old japanese art applied to old IBM keyboard

[rowdy]

These do tend to clean up very well!

Thanks

[rowdy]

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

)

I have acquired, from fanpeople (thanks!), a Model M 122 terminal keyboard dated 01-Jun-1988.  It is minus the top half of most of the keycaps, but otherwise is complete and in good condition.  All keys click equally.

The ultimate aim is:

• convert to ANSI
• bolt mod (more or less required as part of the ANSI conversion)
• install keycaps, preferably pearl and pebble
• thoroughly clean
• install some sort of USB adapter

Having seen Snowdog993's similar keyboard, lightly touched by Phorphorglow, that is the sort of thing I am aiming for.

Requirements:

• time
• money
• keycaps
• USB adapter
• coloured underlay, preferably yellow

[njbair]

With the USB controller and underlay available from Phosphorglow, and caps available from Unicomp, the only part you have to do yourself is the bolt mod. I actually prefer the screw method instead of bolts. I have a drill press, which is infinitely easier than trying to drill straight holes by hand. If you can borrow some time on someone's drill press I would highly recommend it.

I found that a local fastener supplier was my best bet for screws. This is almost certainly going to be the case for you down under.

[fohat.digs]

Requirements:

• time
• money
• keycaps
• USB adapter
• coloured underlay, preferably yellow

Time: 6+ hours first time, half that with experience

Money: $80+ = $30 base set caps + $20 extra caps + $20 Teensy + $10 hardware (mail order from China)

Keycaps: included above - a full regular Model M set is required, plus well over a dozen extra keys

USB: Soarer's Teensy is the easy reliable way, there are cheaper ways to go

underlay(?): if you mean the barrel plate, that is easy to paint.

I would stuff each chimney with paper from behind, so that I could paint the flat surfaces nice and heavy without risking gumming up the action of the stems.

[rowdy]

With the USB controller and underlay available from Phosphorglow, and caps available from Unicomp, the only part you have to do yourself is the bolt mod. I actually prefer the screw method instead of bolts. I have a drill press, which is infinitely easier than trying to drill straight holes by hand. If you can borrow some time on someone's drill press I would highly recommend it.

I found that a local fastener supplier was my best bet for screws. This is almost certainly going to be the case for you down under.

Someone here was looking at a mini drill press a while back.  Can't find the thread now - they were going to post a review of it if they bought it.  it was relatively cheap too.  Apart from that, I don't think I know anyone who has one.  I have a few other things that might benefit from a drill press over time, so purchasing a small one would not be out of the question (once funds are available).

Time: 6+ hours first time, half that with experience

Money: $80+ = $30 base set caps + $20 extra caps + $20 Teensy + $10 hardware (mail order from China)

Keycaps: included above - a full regular Model M set is required, plus well over a dozen extra keys

USB: Soarer's Teensy is the easy reliable way, there are cheaper ways to go

underlay(?): if you mean the barrel plate, that is easy to paint.

I would stuff each chimney with paper from behind, so that I could paint the flat surfaces nice and heavy without risking gumming up the action of the stems.

Thank you for that valuable feedback   Several of your threads are bookmarked for reference!

Money is US$, converted to Aussie dollars kinda sucks at the moment.

Unicomp sells blank 122 sets, but I wanted printed.  I'm not sure if they sell a full printed pearl and pebble set (plus the few extra keys required due to the ANSI mod).

Phosphorglow makes an underlay sheet that fits over the barrel plate.  Snowdog linked to it in the post I linked above.

[fohat.digs]

Unicomp sells blank 122 sets, but I wanted printed.  I'm not sure if they sell a full printed pearl and pebble set (plus the few extra keys required due to the ANSI mod).

Phosphorglow makes an underlay sheet that fits over the barrel plate. 

There are drill (press) stands into which you attach your existing hand drill which are less expensive, but not as sturdy or accurate, as a proper drill press.

Unicomp sells a complete printed Model M keycap set for $30, a fraction of the price of the pieces bought individually. To that you need to add another F1-F-10, and F-13-F24, plus 1 more for whatever you plan to have in the center arrow position. Be mindful of the alternating colors of the function key set, you can either match the upper row to the lower row, alternate with it, or have them all the same.

It did not occur to me that you could simply lay down a background sheet! That would be easy with a hole punch.

[rowdy]

There are drill (press) stands into which you attach your existing hand drill which are less expensive, but not as sturdy or accurate, as a proper drill press.

Unicomp sells a complete printed Model M keycap set for $30, a fraction of the price of the pieces bought individually. To that you need to add another F1-F-10, and F-13-F24, plus 1 more for whatever you plan to have in the center arrow position. Be mindful of the alternating colors of the function key set, you can either match the upper row to the lower row, alternate with it, or have them all the same.

It did not occur to me that you could simply lay down a background sheet! That would be easy with a hole punch.

A simple stand would probably suit me best as I have a drill already.  Alternatively I might look at getting a Dremel or similar.

As for keycaps, if I can get hold of a set of original M122 keycaps that would be perfect.  Actually I understand fanpeople bought this keyboard originally for the keycaps )  He was kind enough to include the stems with the board, which has also prevented any spring damage during shipping.

Phosphorglow's sheets are pre-punched, but with an appropriate hole punch I guess you could make your own!

[fohat.digs]

Alternatively I might look at getting a Dremel or similar.

As for keycaps, if I can get hold of a set of original M122 keycaps that would be perfect. 

A "pistol" shaped drill would be the wrong tool here. You can't hold it "right" because you tend to end up behind it.
I put on my strongest reading glasses (the big ones, for safety, too), hold the Dremel in both hands, and get in very close.

The 122-key terminal set will still have the ISO-style Enter, 1x Backslash, short Left Shift, and probably no 2x "+" on the numpad. And anything bigger than 2x will need a stabilizer insert, too.

[rowdy]

Fortunately I have a couple of spare inserts, as well as a couple of spare springs and flippers (just in case).

[rowdy]

I have acquired a collection of Model M keycaps (thanks, again, fanpeople!), and spent an entertaining evening yesterday sorting them.

My other half would say differently, but I enjoyed myself.

I finally got around to opening the M122 too, and found that the M122 controller board has different ribbon cable connectors than a standard Model M, so I can't just swap PCBs.

I also discovered that at least half the rivets have fallen off

Having reviewed numerous bolt-modding tutorials (including one from fohat.digs), the only question I have is what bolts to use if purchasing them in Australia, as pretty much every link to suitable bolts is somewhere in the US, which is a bit awkward.

Has anyone found a good source of bolts for sale in Australia (or even eBay) suitable for bolt-modding a Model M?

[invariance]

I quickly gave up and went to ebay.
Went for the screw mod method myself and purchased "100 Pcs Stainless Steel Hex Socket Knurled Cap Head Bolts Screws M2x6mm Black" from welcomebuy ($6.41 free post ~3wk wait) without running around is a bit hard to beat.

[rowdy]

I quickly gave up and went to ebay.
Went for the screw mod method myself and purchased "100 Pcs Stainless Steel Hex Socket Knurled Cap Head Bolts Screws M2x6mm Black" from welcomebuy ($6.41 free post ~3wk wait) without running around is a bit hard to beat.

Bookmarked, thanks

Although I'm yet to be convinced of the benefits of screw-modding in contradistinction to bolt-modding.

These don't look very screw-like to my unpracticed eye, I was imagining something like self-tapping screws.  What size hole did you drill for them?

[rowdy]

Also YAY! I've got PF1 through PF24!

They'd probably be the most difficult to source separately, but they are all there.  Now I just have to find out which keys are supposed to be on the 10 to the left, the keys above the arrow cluster, and if there should be anything special on the numeric keypad.

[invariance]

I quickly gave up and went to ebay.
Went for the screw mod method myself and purchased "100 Pcs Stainless Steel Hex Socket Knurled Cap Head Bolts Screws M2x6mm Black" from welcomebuy ($6.41 free post ~3wk wait) without running around is a bit hard to beat.

Bookmarked, thanks

Although I'm yet to be convinced of the benefits of screw-modding in contradistinction to bolt-modding.

These don't look very screw-like to my unpracticed eye, I was imagining something like self-tapping screws.  What size hole did you drill for them?

Just a different way of doing the same thing.  It appealed to me because I considered it to be more discrete and as they are replacing plastic pins, I don't believe there to be enough tension to warrant a screw and nut.  Either way it's more about what you feel happy doing.
I can't remember what drill bit I used but I remember starting with a 1mm as a pilot hole and moving up to a 1.2 or 1.5mm.

[fohat.digs]

I used these cheapies from China. They got here in just under 3 weeks, presumably shipping to Oz would be faster but maybe not.

Some people talk about "poor quality" Chinese hardware, but, hell, you are replacing decades-old plastic with steel so there should be a large margin of error in there ....

I like using nuts and "bolts" (machine screws, of course) because I feel like I have a lot more control with the nuts. I have found that a 1/16" drill bit (living in the Empire measurements) works perfectly with M2 screws but a 1.5mm bit is probably OK (marginally smaller). The 1/16" hole is just slightly undersized and a straight machine screw will cut its way in beautifully and snugly. I usually press a small Philips head screwdriver to the head of the hole to flare it out just slightly to accept the beginning of the screw. Self-tappers in that size range are weird and lame.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251634690247?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=550538684398&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[rowdy]

I used these cheapies from China. They got here in just under 3 weeks, presumably shipping to Oz would be faster but maybe not.

Some people talk about "poor quality" Chinese hardware, but, hell, you are replacing decades-old plastic with steel so there should be a large margin of error in there ....

I like using nuts and "bolts" (machine screws, of course) because I feel like I have a lot more control with the nuts. I have found that a 1/16" drill bit (living in the Empire measurements) works perfectly with M2 screws but a 1.5mm bit is probably OK (marginally smaller). The 1/16" hole is just slightly undersized and a straight machine screw will cut its way in beautifully and snugly. I usually press a small Philips head screwdriver to the head of the hole to flare it out just slightly to accept the beginning of the screw. Self-tappers in that size range are weird and lame.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251634690247?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=550538684398&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

More good ideas - thanks

Any idea how many bolts would be needed for an M122?

Most sellers, including this above one, seem to sell in packs of 50.

Also the time for them to arrive doesn't matter - based on the amount of free time I've had recently it will take me more than three weeks to disassemble the keyboard, clean it, and drill all the holes.

Edit: In the plate picture on the following page I counted around 70 black dots, which I equated to plastic rivets.  So a pack of 100 M2*8 bolts/nuts would be required?

http://www.justblair.co.uk/computers/224-restoring-an-ibm-model-m-1394324-terminal-keyboard.html

[fohat.digs]

Any idea how many bolts would be needed for an M122?

Most sellers, including this above one, seem to sell in packs of 50.

Also the time for them to arrive doesn't matter - based on the amount of free time I've had recently it will take me more than three weeks to disassemble the keyboard, clean it, and drill all the holes.

Somewhere in the neighborhood of 60, but 50 would easily be enough. Make sure that every general area is secure, particularly under Enter and Space bar, etc, but you can skip a few where they are close together (I am thinking that some of the center rows (longitudinally) are probably over-populated) if the perimeter is secure. On the other hand, another pack of those tiny things is not exactly going to break the bank!

I would also recommend a pack of chisel blades for your Xacto knife. Use one to shave off all the "mushroom heads" when you cut it apart, which will wreck that one. Then use a fresh one to make clean, level, flat-topped "mesa" tops on the protruding shafts. Chisel tips are nice to have around in general, anyway.

Cleaning is easy. This and the first task will not take over half an hour each. There is seldom any rust but sanding and painting takes time since paint has to cure.

Drilling the holes also does not take much actual time, but is nerve-wracking because you have to be careful and get it right. Don't do it at night after a drink, you need steady hands and fresh eyes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Excel-Blade-17-Small-Chisel-3-8-5pk-Same-as-X-Acto-217-20017-/162351145374?hash=item25cce1e19e:g:818AAOSw44BYcqUM

[rowdy]

It was too f*** off hot last night (35C outside, 31C inside) to do much except sort a bit more through the keycaps.

I've completed the main section (alphas, numerics, modifiers) except space.  I have a space bar but missing a stabiliser bar.  I might have a stabiliser bar in a box somewhere - need to dig it out when the weather cools down a bit.

The numpad is mostly complete, except what keys to put where the /*- keys would normally go.  Most pics I've seen of an M122 have a "space" key on the top right of the numpad, but I don't have one of those keycaps.  I guess I can customise the codes sent by teh keys and just put standard numpad keycaps on there.

The 10 keys to the left - no idea.  Every M122 I've seen has something different on there.  Hoping that they can be mapped in a Teensy (for example), what kinds of things are people using these for?  Probably Esc on the top left - there is no Esc in the usual position on this keyboard.

Also what do people use the key in the middle of the arrow cluster for?  I'm guessing it was "home" or something on a terminal, but on a PC/Mac?

[fohat.digs]

I use the left function keys more than the top ones, so I keep both sets. Except for the bottom 2 on the left: I re-map F9 to F11 because that is one that I actually use, and re-map F10 to Windows.

I build the right end in the standard ANSI way except that I replace NumLock (which is always on from BIOS, of course) with Escape (where it should  have been anyway).

The top-most row has F13 as another Escape, F14 as calculator, F15 as NumLock (in case it ever got turned on by accident), F16-F19 are still waiting, F20 is Print Screen, and F21-F24 are my media keys.

I use the center arrow as another down arrow, so that muscle memory for the inverted-T will stay intact.

[rowdy]

I'll probably end up primarily using this on a Mac, so some functions will be a little different.

Overall I'll likely go for compatibility with a standard Model M 101 layout.

I grew up on keyboards without function keys, seem to have completely skipped the XT/AT keyboards with the 10 function keys on the left, and then started using keyboards with the 12 function keys across the top, so I'm far more used to those.

That's an excellent idea about the arrow cluster - I'd noticed that if differed in shape to the conventional arrow cluster (diamond vs. inverted T).

[rowdy]

The space bar stabiliser has been located and applied to the space bar, and the space bar fitted to the keyboard.

I am missing a proper numpad "-" (got one, but the "-' has smaller text aligned top left instead of larger text positioned left centre).

Haven't got a 1x "+" for teh numpad either, and not sure what to put on the extra key above the numpad Enter, although I might convert those two into one large "+" key later on.

And my other half bought me a packet of ziplock sandwich bags to store keycaps in.  Wasn't that sweet of her Although I suspect it was just to stop me from taking all the bags our daughter needs for her school lunches

Edit: Nuts and bolts ordered.

[invariance]

and not sure what to put on the extra key above the numpad Enter

Quite a few pics have this blank, my Wyse board has that as a comma.
What about relengendable caps, eg for the left function keys?  Then you could assign them to macros in the teensy and legend them accordingly.

[rowdy]

Looking for a Teensy for my Model M 122 conversion.  I'll probably end up mounting it inside the case with a USB port on the back somewhere.

Anyway, which Teensy?

I can get a Teensy++ 2.0 for AUD$50.67 - https://littlebirdelectronics.com.au/collections/teensy/products/teensy-2-0

Or a Pro Micro ATmega32U4 from eBay for about AUD$5 - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/140972980117?hash=item20d2a4f795:g:MTwAAOSw241YfeGn

Suggestions welcome

Also how do you program it?  Most Model M/F USB conversions note that a Teensy is involved, but most don't give any specifics about what and how.

[jjanssen1]

Looking for a Teensy for my Model M 122 conversion.  I'll probably end up mounting it inside the case with a USB port on the back somewhere.

Anyway, which Teensy?

I can get a Teensy++ 2.0 for AUD$50.67 - https://littlebirdelectronics.com.au/collections/teensy/products/teensy-2-0

Or a Pro Micro ATmega32U4 from eBay for about AUD$5 - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/140972980117?hash=item20d2a4f795:g:MTwAAOSw241YfeGn

Suggestions welcome

Also how do you program it?  Most Model M/F USB conversions note that a Teensy is involved, but most don't give any specifics about what and how.

I have bought arduino's before from here: https://www.robotgear.com.au/Category.aspx/Category/41-Microcontrollers-and-IO-Boards

Looks like you can get an official Arduino micro for $41.95 AUD


-Joshua

[jjanssen1]

Also how do you program it?  Most Model M/F USB conversions note that a Teensy is involved, but most don't give any specifics about what and how.

Hasu also has some good converters available for model M's: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=27272.0 & https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard (in the projects section)

Hope this helps 

-Joshua

[fohat.digs]

Using the Teensy 2.0 (without any of the pluses) is what Soarer's work revolved around, and with pjrc's firmware it works with no fuss.

Otherwise, people seem to like this:

https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/how-to-use-a-pro-micro-as-a-cheap-controller-converter-like-soarer-s-t8448.html?hilit=using%20pro%20micro%20teensy

[rowdy]

My 52G9658 has always felt like the nicest Model M keyboard I have used.  Having the socket driver out to disassemble the M122, I thought I'd take the back off it and see what condition it was like inside.

This keyboard is the second one at the start of this thread.

Inside was almost spotless.  There was one (1) missing rivet.  It also has a speaker!  No wonder this one feels really crisp - a benchmark for all my other Model M keyboards.

[rowdy]

No return (beyond the point of).

[fohat.digs]

No return (beyond the point of).

Whoa! You left the stems in when you separated the layers.

That is messy. Taking stems in and out is a pain, but it is necessary. If you have problems with re-assembly, all the stems will have to come off and go back with each iteration.

[rowdy]

No return (beyond the point of).

Whoa! You left the stems in when you separated the layers.

That is messy. Taking stems in and out is a pain, but it is necessary. If you have problems with re-assembly, all the stems will have to come off and go back with each iteration.

Yes, my mistake.

I did that 'cause I was disassembling it on my lap and didn't want to risk damaging the springs.  Still need to make some sort of frame to support it while I am putting it back together.

Everything has been removed now to facilitate giving the barrel plate a bath.

I've seen a link somewhere but can't find it now - how do you remove the legs from the upper part of the case?  They have metal springs and I don't want them to rust when I give the case a bath too.

[fohat.digs]

I've seen a link somewhere but can't find it now - how do you remove the legs from the upper part of the case?  They have metal springs and I don't want them to rust when I give the case a bath too.

There are a few parts, and if you push the plastic towards the outside you can get the inside of the spring out of the groove that holds it in place and pull it out of the way. Then you can push the long plastic part out. It takes a lot of effort and you may fear that you are breaking it. Not quite as bad as opening an AT, however.

I recommend taking a few photos, the pieces are hard to get back in the right configuration. Both sets are the same, but they have to go back in mirror image right and left. The sleeves and tubes have a flat side that only goes one way.

[rowdy]

I've seen a link somewhere but can't find it now - how do you remove the legs from the upper part of the case?  They have metal springs and I don't want them to rust when I give the case a bath too.

There are a few parts, and if you push the plastic towards the outside you can get the inside of the spring out of the groove that holds it in place and pull it out of the way. Then you can push the long plastic part out. It takes a lot of effort and you may fear that you are breaking it. Not quite as bad as opening an AT, however.

I recommend taking a few photos, the pieces are hard to get back in the right configuration. Both sets are the same, but they have to go back in mirror image right and left. The sleeves and tubes have a flat side that only goes one way.

Great!

Thanks for that

[fohat.digs]

Thanks for that

Wait - maybe the long axles with the discs on the end are different and off-center. You can only make it work one way, anyway.

[rowdy]

Thanks for that

Wait - maybe the long axles with the discs on the end are different and off-center. You can only make it work one way, anyway.

I gave it a bit of a pinch and a bit of a push yesterday, but nothing wanted to move.  I'll inspect it more closely tonight.

[fohat.digs]

I gave it a bit of a pinch and a bit of a push yesterday, but nothing wanted to move.  I'll inspect it more closely tonight.

It's a force fit, you will be able to see how it works after you separate all the pieces.

I recommend putting the fingers of both hands on the outside of the case and pushing the end of the axle straight outwards (sidewards) with both thumbs. The legs have holes and the axle passes through them. If you are strong you can probably do it one-handed, but you may get better control with 2.

[invariance]

Do you mean the key stems from the barrel plate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[invariance]

Do you mean the key stems from the barrel plate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ignore that, I was back a page with what I was replying to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rowdy]

Thanks for that

Wait - maybe the long axles with the discs on the end are different and off-center. You can only make it work one way, anyway.

Legs removed with relative ease - thank you for the excellent description.

The long axles have three flat sides (two with plastic clips on them) and one rounded side.  It is that which determines which side of the keyboard they go on.  One side has the rounded edge facing the front of the keyboard, the other side the rounded side faces the rear.  And yes, once you pull them apart it is MUCH easier to see how they fit together.

Once I realised that I wasn't going to break it, I pushed with one thumb while holding the other hand outside the case in case something flew off (I do have fairly strong fingers).

The first spring I tried to remove before fully removing the axle, and it did its spring thing and ended up half way across the room.

The second one I removed the axle first, then just lifted the leg and spring out together - much easier.

Also the heat much have been affecting me more than I realised when I sorted the keycaps out, and I had half one piece and half two piece.  That is rationalised now, with nearly all the keycaps being 2 piece.

[fohat.digs]

Still need to make some sort of frame to support it while I am putting it back together.

A few pieces of scrap wood and some nails can make the job a lot easier.

[rowdy]

Still need to make some sort of frame to support it while I am putting it back together.

A few pieces of scrap wood and some nails can make the job a lot easier.

Inside dimensions appreciated

I also like the ones that Phosphorglow uses, but they would take far longer to make.

[rowdy]

Here's a picture of the axle thingy - you can see the three flattish sides and the one curved side.



1/16" drill bit, you say?  Guess which one I seem to have lost in the distant past ...

[rowdy]

Progress report.

Everything is disassembled ready for a bath.  Still need to dig the old baby bath out and clean it though.  I washed one of my SSKs in it - a perfect size.

AFAIK all holes are drilled.  Most of them turned out not too bad.  Still waiting for nuts and bolts to arrive from China - shipping estimate is they will arrive late March or early April.  Hopefully a bit earlier than that.

Keycaps soaking.  Still need to sort out ANSI replacements for the few non-ANSI keys on the M122 (e.g. L-Shift, Enter, backslash).  Still haven't quite decided what to make the left 10 function keys - blank keycaps are on standby.

Pro Micro ordered (from China) - apparently 3 to 4 weeks to arrive.







Thank you to everyone for the help provided so far

[rowdy]

Afternoon update.

The case and barrel plate have been given a bath.  Did I go a bit overboard with the candles?



The case seemed to enjoy the bath anyway, and both case and barrel plate turned out quite well.  All the black texta marks came off the case quite nicely.



Keycaps soaked, scrubbed, and now drying.

[rowdy]

Bolty bits have arrived (sorry, no pic yet, the USB port on my computer has died and it needs to be rebooted to re-enable it), and are in the process of being inserted into the new holes in the barrel plate.

Keycaps are thoroughly dried, but the barrel plate has accumulated a tin layer of dust in the weeks it has been lying around.  Nothing that a quick brush over won't remove.

Still waiting for the Pro Micro.  Still need to find an ANSI Enter key.

[rowdy]

How do you get the nuts on?!?!?!?!

The front row, near the space bar, were easy as there is a thinner plastic lip so the bolts go through a little bit further.

But the rest of them have < 1mm thread protruding above the plate, and it's not quite enough for the nuts to fix on.

Even pinching the metal plate and barrel plate together doesn't help - < 1mm bolt is available for nut application.

[fohat.digs]

If you are using 8mm machine screws there is just barely enough to engage the nut.

I recommend that you use both hands and push/screw the head from one side (with a small screwdriver) while pushing and seating the nut from the other side. Generally, by pushing from both sides simultaneously, I am able to get washers on about 2/3 of them and the other 1/3 will only (barely) accept the nut.

Lately, I have ordered 9mm (or even 10mm) screws in addition to 8mm, and used the 8mm at the bottom (space bar) side and switched over to the longer ones for the upper part, where there is more clearance from the bottom case shell.

[invariance]

Hehehehe
another reason for to go screw mod

[rowdy]

Hehehehe
another reason for to go screw mod

I'm starting to wonder about that.

The nuts are 3.7mm but the bolt heads are only 3.4mm - they might be too small and slip through the holes in the metal plate.

I did notice that Phosphorglow did a screw mod, inserting the screws from underneath the barrel plate.

[fohat.digs]

I have always used Sandy55's method and screwed through the top (face) side and added the nuts on the back (bottom) side. Standard M2 nuts will not fit through the plate holes but I prefer to use washers whenever I can. 8mm screws are long enough but sometimes you have to push to get the plates pressed together and the threads exposed as much as possible.

I don't do "screw mods" but I have done screw repairs, and I always use washers in that case.

[rowdy]

Pro Micros have arrived.  They are Chinese 5V ones with J1 NOT bridged (needs to be bridged, as described here and here).

Nuts finally applied (except one or two where the bolts didn't line up 100% with the holes in the metal plate).

But ... someone forgot to put the little rubber tubes back in the sides of the barrel plate before putting all the other bits back on.  Are they critical?  Will there be problems if they are missing?  Although I'd rather not take all the nuts off again, if I'm going to have problems down the road I'll do it now rather than later.

[fohat.digs]

except one or two where the bolts didn't line up 100% with the holes in the metal plate

But ... someone forgot to put the little rubber tubes back in the sides of the barrel plate before putting all the other bits back on.  Are they critical?

Those tubes are nice but not critical. I forget them more often than I remember them.

With the rest of the assembly back together, you can often get those crooked screws in by backing them out and then forcefully screwing them in the direction they need to go.  Unless your hole is way out of plumb.

[rowdy]

All the keycaps (or stems, where keycaps are missing due to ANSI conversion) have gone back on, and I'm quite relieved to discovered that all of them still click.

There does seem to be a very slight variation across some parts of the board, like the side edges and top, but overall it seems quite good.

Next up is probably to get the Pro Micro flashed and installed inside the keyboard.

And to find replacement keycaps for the ones that are missing, which are a few more than I originally thought.

[xtrafrood]

Ooo, how did I miss this thread?! Impatiently waiting for more 122 photos

[fohat.digs]

There does seem to be a very slight variation across some parts of the board, like the side edges and top, but overall it seems quite good.

And to find replacement keycaps for the ones that are missing, which are a few more than I originally thought.

With a bolt mod you have the option of "tuning" by tightening various areas to different compressions. The front edge is difficult if you are using nuts and you might have to clip off some of the ridges. Regardless, I always populate that front (space bar) line, but many people don't. Otherwise, remember that compressing the center of the line of curvature will tend to open up the far edges, so maybe loosen the center areas while tightening the edges - possibly the opposite of what seemed intuitive at first.

An ANSI conversion takes at least a half dozen caps, and if you replace the navigation cluster and left function keys it can easily be 2 dozen or more. For US customers, a full Model M set of caps from Unicomp (@$30) is about as cheap and easy as simply filling in the gaps a la carte, but for you literally all the way around the world, the shipping probably makes that prohibitive.

A logical and/or cheap person knows that he can only use one keyboard at a time, so you could just swap in the keys in question from another Model M which is not in use, and spend $0 additional.

[rowdy]

Ooo, how did I miss this thread?! Impatiently waiting for more 122 photos

I've got some somewhere, I had USB problems so couldn't empty the camera for a while.

[rowdy]

There does seem to be a very slight variation across some parts of the board, like the side edges and top, but overall it seems quite good.

And to find replacement keycaps for the ones that are missing, which are a few more than I originally thought.

With a bolt mod you have the option of "tuning" by tightening various areas to different compressions. The front edge is difficult if you are using nuts and you might have to clip off some of the ridges. Regardless, I always populate that front (space bar) line, but many people don't. Otherwise, remember that compressing the center of the line of curvature will tend to open up the far edges, so maybe loosen the center areas while tightening the edges - possibly the opposite of what seemed intuitive at first.

An ANSI conversion takes at least a half dozen caps, and if you replace the navigation cluster and left function keys it can easily be 2 dozen or more. For US customers, a full Model M set of caps from Unicomp (@$30) is about as cheap and easy as simply filling in the gaps a la carte, but for you literally all the way around the world, the shipping probably makes that prohibitive.

A logical and/or cheap person knows that he can only use one keyboard at a time, so you could just swap in the keys in question from another Model M which is not in use, and spend $0 additional.

I acquired a mid-sized box of Model M keycaps from various keyboards, including at least one M122.  Thus I have PF1 to PF24

I also acquired a left Shift, but not an ANSI Enter.  The ,, and .. keys on the terminal keyboard need to be replaced with the more conventional ,< and .>, and [{ ]} \| are also different sized and absent from my collection.

I have considered ordering from Unicomp, but shipping price (and currency conversion) almost makes it more expensive for a set of keycaps than it did for the entire keyboard and large keycap collection I have amassed so far.  I have a local option to explore, hopefully, although I haven't had any response from them yet.

I noticed that the front of the case didn't close properly any more, most likely due to the bolts sticking through further as the plastic is thinner along the front lip of the barrel plate.  I had thought about snipping the end of the bolts off, hadn't got around to it yet.

[fohat.digs]

I also acquired a left Shift, but not an ANSI Enter.  The ,, and .. keys on the terminal keyboard need to be replaced with the more conventional ,< and .>, and [{ ]} \| are also different sized and absent from my collection.

I noticed that the front of the case didn't close properly any more, most likely due to the bolts sticking through further as the plastic is thinner along the front lip of the barrel plate.

ANSI Enter and \| are usually the hardest to find, along with Left Shift and Control.

You can use a Dremel to grind deeper the depressions on the inside bottom of the case to gain another mm or so of clearance for the screws.

[rowdy]

I also acquired a left Shift, but not an ANSI Enter.  The ,, and .. keys on the terminal keyboard need to be replaced with the more conventional ,< and .>, and [{ ]} \| are also different sized and absent from my collection.

I noticed that the front of the case didn't close properly any more, most likely due to the bolts sticking through further as the plastic is thinner along the front lip of the barrel plate.

ANSI Enter and \| are usually the hardest to find, along with Left Shift and Control.

You can use a Dremel to grind deeper the depressions on the inside bottom of the case to gain another mm or so of clearance for the screws.

For something so big, it's surprising that there's so little clearance under most of the plate.

[invariance]

What about filing the screw head and nut slightly?  Maybe do a dry assembly but use something on the case where the screw and nut touches to work out the proud points to file down, eg blutac, a thin film of silicon thermal grease, any other suggestions.....
Personally would try to avoid grinding anything on a vintage item, sorry Fogarty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fohat.digs]

a vintage item,

After you get into the Model F, you realize that a Model M is a mostly plastic, modern-ish keyboard rather than a "vintage item" ....

[rowdy]

a vintage item,

After you get into the Model F, you realize that a Model M is a mostly plastic, modern-ish keyboard rather than a "vintage item" ....

I am yet to get a Model F, and thus prefer not to grind any of my keyboards.

Also congratulations on 7000 (helpful, informative, friendly, constructive) posts!

[rowdy]

Long overdue, but the 2018 keyboard plans thread reminded me about.

I fsck up a couple of minor things that probably wouldn't have affected operation of the keyboard, but I would have known about it with every click.

So I removed the nuts, disassembled the layers again, corrected both issues, put the layers back together, and reinstalled the nuts.

Next up is tightening the nuts to get a consistent feel across the board.

Still looking for replacement keycaps, and still need to install and program the Pro Micro, although I'm leaning towards an external solution that would be usable for several keyboards (if not all at once).

[rowdy]

It was f**k off hot 41℃ today (106℉) and reached 35℃ (95℉) inside, but I still managed to get the keycaps on, trimmed down a couple of bolts near the edges that were stopping the case from closing, reattached the controller board, and put what keycaps I have back on.

Now it looks like a keyboard again.

Still to do:

1. Find and install the remaining keycaps.
2. Construct external converter box using Pro Micro (need to order sockets and wires for that).
3. Program said Pro Micro.

[fohat.digs]

You are almost there! 35/95 INSIDE? OMG Do you at least have fans to keep the air moving?

A few of those caps look like they came off of a Wheelwriter typewriter. Too bad those aren't a better source for the rest.

Also too bad you are literally all the way on the other side of the world, I have a couple of those sockets that I showed in my outboard converter box guide, but you can buy them off ebay from China far cheaper than the postage that it would take me to mail them to you.

[rowdy]

You are almost there! 35/95 INSIDE? OMG Do you at least have fans to keep the air moving?

A few of those caps look like they came off of a Wheelwriter typewriter. Too bad those aren't a better source for the rest.

Also too bad you are literally all the way on the other side of the world, I have a couple of those sockets that I showed in my outboard converter box guide, but you can buy them off ebay from China far cheaper than the postage that it would take me to mail them to you.

Yes, a fan was blowing the hot air around.  Fortunately a cool change arrived at around 6pm, but it was still around 30°C (86°F) inside at bed time.

The keyboard itself came with no keycaps, but I later got a box of random keycaps from the same source.  This is the best fit pick from that collection.

My eBay search-fu seems to have failed me - the closest 5 pin 240° DIN socket I could find it from the UK:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIN-5-Pin-240-Socket-Panel-Mount-MIDI-Data-Audio-Cable-1st-CLASS-POST/291657901251

If anyone has a link to something cheaper (ha!) or closer to Australia, it would be appreciated

Unless I can get away with a 6 pin socket - looks like the 5 pin socket but with an extra hole in the middle:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/6-pin-din-panel-socket/p/PS0354

[fohat.digs]

Our air conditioner broke a few summers ago during a heat wave and it was 35/95 in my bedroom at midnight! That was seriously bad.

The 6-hole sockets work fine, that is what I have always used. Extra holes are meaningless unless something accesses them, unlike extra pins which can interfere.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58941.msg1348717#msg1348717

[ZayaCaps]

Great work on the Model F! This is inspiring me to get out my own Model F and reburb it.

[rowdy]

Great work on the Model F! This is inspiring me to get out my own Model F and reburb it.

Sorry, this is a Model M.

I wish I had a Model F, but they are quite difficult to find down here.

[ZayaCaps]

Sorry, this is a Model M.

I wish I had a Model F, but they are quite difficult to find down here.

Whoops! Apologies for the typo.

[rowdy]

Sorry, this is a Model M.

I wish I had a Model F, but they are quite difficult to find down here.

Whoops! Apologies for the typo.

No worries

[rowdy]

Some parts have been obtained.

Not as much choice in the jiffy boxes as I'd hoped.  The ones closer to the ideal size were metal - harder to make holes in.  Otherwise too small or way too big.

[rowdy]

Holes have been made and sockety things successfully test-fitted.  Then I ran into a few distractions and ran out of time to do anything else.

[fohat.digs]

The ones closer to the ideal size were metal - harder to make holes in. 

I have had good success with the metal ones. They are aluminum and quite easy to drill, plus they look and feel better.

Plastic ones tend to crack when you make larger holes in them.

[rowdy]

The ones closer to the ideal size were metal - harder to make holes in. 

I have had good success with the metal ones. They are aluminum and quite easy to drill, plus they look and feel better.

Plastic ones tend to crack when you make larger holes in them.

I have limited tools available.

Back in the day I made a few projects that I put into plastic cases with a modicum of success, so I followed the same route with this.

So far so good ...

[rowdy]

No real progress the last few days.

There were a couple of hot days, a couple of warm days, and the last few days have been cool (around 20 degrees) with some rain, which is much more preferable.

As I am going back to work tomorrow (Monday), I was trying to get some last minute things done, which took up most of the time.

However planning has proceeded, and I wondered about soldering the headers onto my ProMicro, gathering some wires with 1x sockets on the end and soldering the bare end to the back of the DIN socket, and simply plugging the other end into the ProMicro headers.

That way the components would be reusable.

This may become relevant if I wanted to internalise the ProMicro, as I could simply use female-female jumper cables to connect the pins on the M122 controller board directly to the ProMicro.

On another note, I disconnected the DIP switch so I could wash the case, but now that I come to reconnect it I have discovered that there are more pins on the controller PCB than sockets on the DIP switch plug.  A few searches proved fruitless.  Does anyone know which side of the PCB plug the DIP switches are supposed to be connected to?

[fohat.digs]

I think that would work fine in principle, although it might not be very pretty ....

I have taken an old IDE cable and cut off a block of plastic with the last 6 sockets and their accompanying wires. That has proven easier than worrying with 6 individual wires flopping around.

But when I know that I am never looking back, I just cut the end off the original cable and use it directly since it has 1 blocked hole, is properly color-coded, and is guaranteed to fit properly.

[rowdy]

Using an old IDE cable is a great idea!

I have a box full of them (along with old floppy drive cables and various SCSI cables).

I try to make things reusable if possible, to save costs and because it is difficult to get some things down here.  Mind you with online auction sites and such it is getting easier, even if it does take 3 weeks or so for things to arrive.