So there is no big enough hole for a full-size USB jack? Bummer. Maybe a mini USB connector would be small enough.
You could also make a USB rat tail instead of a long fixed cable, i.e., a very short cable looking out of the case with some USB connector at its end. I wouldn't solder that cable directly to the controller, but connect it to 4 jumper pins (otherwise you couldn't remove the controller from the keyboard anymore).
Yeah, the cord is not detachable on them, so there's no spot for a jack of any kind. Just a small round hole that the cord goes through.
Hole is 5mm wide, L-R as in this photo. It's approximately that in height also. Top is flat, remainder is rounded (like a 'U' with a line across the top).
A mini jack would presumably fit (if not, drilling out the hole wider would make it fit) but the layout in the case would make it kind of not so good. Good point about a pin header, though I would in fact still be able to remove it from the keyboard (the cord would just come with it).
As Specter_57 mentioned already, it doesn't really matter whether they are 20k or 22k. I'll change them to 22k in the schematic because those are in the E12 series, thus more common. A compact part such as Mouser's 71-CSC09A01-22K would save you quite some space.
Please forget the old design with diodes and 74HC164 register. It requires a different firmware, which I have removed from the source tree already. I guess no one has ever built this circuit anyway, so there's no point to support it any longer.
With regards to the Mouser part you suggested, I don't actually know how to use one, nor can I visualize how to fit it into the circuit.
Alright, no diodes and no 74HC164 (I've already bought 74HC165s, just wasn't sure on the diodes, if they'd make a difference).
Kishy.
Your 122key terminal board...turn it over, look at the back.
On the right-hand side, toward the top of the board, you will see a small rectangular opening with (in my three boards) a plastic tab, which can easily be removed...or left in place and used to mount the connector.
You can mount your socket inside at this point...maybe have to do some small amount of mechanical work inside, but that is a possible location.
When the boards feet are up, should be no problem with angling issues.
Consider using "Shapelock" or "Friendly Plastic" for the mechanical mounting work if not using that plug I mentioned above.
Just a thought.
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Spec 57
.end
Aha, but you see, there's no clearance under the keyboard to run a cord or have the connector sticking out. It's not physically possible to use the keyboard in the raised position (that is, with the feet lowered) because it makes it both a) not fit in my desk and b) very uncomfortable to use.
To show what you mean to people who don't know, it's the small pop-out panel visible here:
Good thinking of course, but not feasible here:
ShapeLock...website looks Unicompy, but wow, that's a neat concept!
I would, ultimately, be OK with having a normal 'B' socket on the controller board, connecting a normal 'B' cable to it, then closing up the keyboard with that inside...if anything, the presence of the molded plug on the cable would act as a strain relief against the case. Either that or some sort of pin connector, but I do already have the USB sockets on their way to me so I'll just do that I think.