[DONE] Modifying the G80-11900 layout...with a dremel

[infiniti]

Done!  Pictures here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62638.msg1477324#msg1477324

Typing video: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62638.msg1486651#msg1486651


Drilling Guides Revision 2.0 (2014-09-17) -- Print on 8.5" x 13" paper
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JPG:  Drilling Guide REV2.0 8.5x13.jpg (1083.9 kB. 1901x3346 - viewed 1357 times.)
PDF:  Drilling Guide REV2.0 8.5x13.pdf (396.31 kB - downloaded 1056 times.)

The G80-11900 has grown on me but the bottom row (1-1-1-6-1-1-1-1) and 2u right shift makes it difficult to find a replacement set of caps.

Have dremel, will mod!

I've decided to modify the PCB:

• redo the bottom row as 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1.5
• split 2.25u left shift to 1.25u shift and 1u win key
• split odd 2u right shift to 2x 1u -- probably win key and context key, haven't decided of I'll keep one as right shift

I'm still in the process of dremeling the PCB.  When done, the switches will be fixed to the board and rewired.





Test fitting with Bro Set:

[infiniti]

Progress so far:





Taking a break.  Snack attack.

Then the 1.5 mods on the right hand side.

[ApocalypseMaow]

what... so awesome!

[infiniti]

Done making new holes in the PCB.

Test:





Time to fine-tune the spacing before epoxying the switches in place.

Edit: fixed the pictures

[berserkfan]

Looks very good; I could really learn a thing or two from you!

That said, I think what's more important is that you show us how you fixed the internals. Hand wiring seems straightforward (if not that easy to do for noobs like me), but presumably you identified which spots on the keyboard matrix/ controller to solder to, and that information would be extremely helpful to many people who want to mod their 11900s.

[infiniti]

Looks very good; I could really learn a thing or two from you!

That said, I think what's more important is that you show us how you fixed the internals. Hand wiring seems straightforward (if not that easy to do for noobs like me), but presumably you identified which spots on the keyboard matrix/ controller to solder to, and that information would be extremely helpful to many people who want to mod their 11900s.

TAKE PICTURES OF YOUR PCB BEFORE YOU MOD IT.

I realized this after I started making holes in the PCB so noting what is wired where has taken me a while to trace.

I found a pic or a 11900 PCB online...but it's different.

Anyway, I think (and hope) I noted it right.  I'll double check before soldering.

I just labeled the pin positions with letters (A to A, B to B, etc.).





Ignore the excessively large hole haha

[SpAmRaY]

Awesome job as always. Thanks for sharing and thanks for not being happy with the status quo and doing something about it!

[CPTBadAss]

I love this mod, can't wait to see more pictures of Bob's new home!

[dorkvader]

This topic at DT also has some good info
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/iso-to-ansi-t155.html

Excellent mod! I eagerly await the continuation.

[RabRhee]

This is my kind of mod, very nice! It is about time these PCBs learned they are there for our benefit, not the other way round.

[infiniti]

Awesome job as always. Thanks for sharing and thanks for not being happy with the status quo and doing something about it!

Thanks Ray!  This is testament to how badly I want to purdy keycaps on this baby!

== == == == ==

I love this mod, can't wait to see more pictures of Bob's new home!

Bob can't go near the Bro Set...it's guarded by Barney (yes it's 'coz he's purple).



== == == == ==

This topic at DT also has some good info
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/iso-to-ansi-t155.html

Excellent mod! I eagerly await the continuation.

Dang I should have made a jig!  I was using paper printouts.

I'd hate to disappoint you but the backend of this isn't going to be as clean as that but it will be fully functional (definitely) with properly spaced and aligned key caps (I'm about 95% certain about this).

== == == == ==

This is my kind of mod, very nice! It is about time these PCBs learned they are there for our benefit, not the other way round.

Have dremel, will mod!

[HoffmanMyster]

Very cool work! I like this a lot.

[berserkfan]

Hello Infiniti

I am being forced to be thick skinned and ask on your thread. I think you have the ability to help me a bit.

See, on my thread http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62693.0 I have a Deck Legend with a problem. Some keys are dead.

Since Deck has kindly offered schematics online, I can identify the column 18 on the keyboard matrix and the pin 37 on the keyboard controller.

But I have no idea how to fix this problem in practical terms. Also I don't know where pin 37 actually is because keyboard controller has no helpful markings.

Am I supposed to run a bridge somewhere? Right now the only thing I can think of, is to reflow the solder because that is within my abilties.

[infiniti]

I'll take a look when I get to a computer.

== == == == ==

Anyway, I've been looking at that conversion thread on DT and I'm thinking of making a jig, epoxying the current holes I've made, and starting over.

It might be more difficult to permanently epoxy the switches in place to the board.

[infiniti]

So, I have the epoxy and drill bits.  I don't have a drill press so we will see how things go with a dremel.

I'm currently making the drilling templates in CorelDraw.

Want to see what happens when you think hot glue is a good idea?

WARNING: THE CRAP WITHIN MAY OFFEND SOME USERS.

More

YOU WERE WARNED




I feel so ashamed of this.

[berserkfan]

OK, you do have to be ashamed. It's worse than anything I have ever produced in my clumsy career. 

But then again, you were doing something much more ambitious... can't quite criticize.

[IvanIvanovich]

You could have saved a lot of trouble if you would have found yourself

G80-11802LPAJA

[infiniti]

I've finished the drilling guide (and a box of my kid's cookies shh).

I'll upload it once I've had the chance to double check it in the morning.

They fit!  Guides are in the OP.


== == == == ==

OK, you do have to be ashamed. It's worse than anything I have ever produced in my clumsy career. 

But then again, you were doing something much more ambitious... can't quite criticize.

I once attempted to mold a space bar and cast one from acrylic resin...I don't speak of that day.


== == == == ==

You could have saved a lot of trouble if you would have found yourself

Show Image

G80-11802LPAJA

True but then my idle hands would need something else to do. :p

[Neebio]

Owning a couple of these myself and knowing the joys of the layout, you sir are a champion.  Curious though, did you make a Round 5 order? I've wanted a nice set of caps for my 11900 since I got it and finally broke and ordered a customized set of Round 5 for it.  I figured it would be the only group buy that would properly cater to the layout... too bad I joined too late to get actual 1u mods for the bottom... but I managed

[infiniti]

Owning a couple of these myself and knowing the joys of the layout, you sir are a champion.  Curious though, did you make a Round 5 order? I've wanted a nice set of caps for my 11900 since I got it and finally broke and ordered a customized set of Round 5 for it.  I figured it would be the only group buy that would properly cater to the layout... too bad I joined too late to get actual 1u mods for the bottom... but I managed

Yeah...the layout made getting caps difficult.  Strangely, the offset switch in the 6u spacebar lines up for the 7u conversion so that's less drilling for me. *phew*

Nope, I didn't join R5.  I too wanted a set and was REALLY close to grabbing a Granite set but hesitated because of the DSA profile.

I had a Bro Set and played with the idea of adapting the 11900 for it...and here we are!

[infiniti]

The drilling guide is good and now in the OP.

The epoxy has been set and is curing.  I'm just waiting for it to harden a bit more before cleaning off more residue.





Other things I'm planning:
- covering the front of the PCB with vinyl to mask the epoxy-filled holes
- rewiring the F row to preserve the two-tone blocks as:
      F1   F3   F5   F7   F9    F11
      F2   F4   F6   F8   F10  F12

            or

      F1   F2   F5   F6   F9    F10
      F3   F4   F7   F8   F11  F12

[Neebio]

Carbon Fiber Vinyl!

[infiniti]

The drilling guide needs a bit of adjustment so I took it down for the moment.

Drilling guides are fixed and should line up properly now.

== == == == == == ==

Carbon Fiber Vinyl!

Dude...thanks for reminding me of that!  I still have some left over from a previous project.

[infiniti]

Done drilling!









Test fit is OK!



Alignment is OK...the angle just makes it look wonky.  The shift needs a wee bit of fine tuning.


To Do:
- find the vinyl, lay the vinyl, and poke holes though it
- transfer wiring notes for the new switch positions
- figure out the wiring for the F row to make it:
      F1   F3   F5   F7   F9    F11
      F2   F4   F6   F8   F10  F12

[dorkvader]

Is this the keycon board?

Awesome use for it if so.

[infiniti]

Is this the keycon board?

Awesome use for it if so.

Yes sir it is!


== == == == == ==

Been working on tracing the F row for remapping.  So far, this is what I've done:


I'll review it again in the morning.

I tested some of the faux carbon fiber sticker on one switch and it's OK...the poking of holes is time consuming though.  As such, I drew out a mask with rectangular cutouts for the bottom of the switch (including PCB mounting pegs, pins, etc.).  I figure the rectangular cutouts would be more forgiving during installation.



Edit: grammar...need to sleep.

[infiniti]

I decided to cut the vinyl sticker myself since DIY is my middle name.











I've soldered all the switches in place and hot glued the base of the new switch positions.

I'll review all the wiring diagrams after dinner.

Oh and what wire should I be using?  Can I use wires from a CAT5 cable?

[dorkvader]

Oh and what wire should I be using?  Can I use wires from a CAT5 cable?

That will work.

[Neebio]

The Vinyl looks great infiniti, I know on a 11900 you don't see much of the PCB through they keys anyways, but that will be sure to add some class to the board! (also dat carbon fiber cred)

Cat5 cable should be just fine.  The wires in a keyboard are carrying max 5V at a max of 500mA, definitely the realm of operation of Cat5 cable.

[CPTBadAss]

If you painted that epoxy the color of the PCB, I don't think I could tell this was a mod. Thanks for continuing to update this thread with your pictures. I'm really enjoying this mod .

I'm just bummed Bob won't be able to hang out there. Poor fella.

[dorkvader]

The Vinyl looks great infiniti, I know on a 11900 you don't see much of the PCB through they keys anyways, but that will be sure to add some class to the board! (also dat carbon fiber cred)

Cat5 cable should be just fine.  The wires in a keyboard are carrying max 5V at a max of 500mA, definitely the realm of operation of Cat5 cable.

Will almost certainly be carrying less. KB matrix scan current is just about negligeable since it only has to check for continuity (I think). Cat5 cable has had a long history of use as cheap hook-up wire for small signal stuff. DIY audio guys even use it sometimes for input wiring (as a twisted pair) for DIY amps and things. Myself, I would probably prefer coax (twisted pairs have high capacitance, which can affect amp oscillation in some cases)

Anyway, long story short: cat5 cable will work fine.

[infiniti]

Nice.  I have excess CAT5 cable here. )

I'll wire up the new switch positions and test for functionality before I hack the F row.

Don't worry about Bob...he has some adventures coming up.

[infiniti]

So far, so good.  I've got all the new switch positions wired and everything works!

Time to hack the F row!

[dorkvader]

what does that paper say?

[infiniti]

what does that paper say?

It's some masking tape of notes from tracing what connects to where.  No space to write near the pins.

Anyway. I ran out of time today...I began cutting traces with a blade...then it occurred to me to use a dremel.  I'll do that soon. )

[berserkfan]

wait, how do you cut traces with a dremel? It's like impossible to be so precise. What setting did you use, and what attachment?

If you're wondering, I am also thinking about laying down my own traces. I have a Deck Legend that is not fully working. Only ONE column of keys is not responding. And I can't figure out where the trace is broken. So I am thinking of using wire. but If I could do something professional like laying down a trace, I'd be happy to do it; I just don't know how so I am looking at your thread every day to learn.

[Neebio]

wait, how do you cut traces with a dremel? It's like impossible to be so precise. What setting did you use, and what attachment?

If you're wondering, I am also thinking about laying down my own traces. I have a Deck Legend that is not fully working. Only ONE column of keys is not responding. And I can't figure out where the trace is broken. So I am thinking of using wire. but If I could do something professional like laying down a trace, I'd be happy to do it; I just don't know how so I am looking at your thread every day to learn.

You'd cut them very carefully, probably with a pointed bit like this one: http://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=118

To sever the trace, you only need to remove the copper from the surface of the pcb, so you don't need to cut deep into the pcb at all.  Using a pointed cutter and making a small thin slit into the pcb pretty effectively ensures that the trace is severed completely.

I'm not sure how you would lay new trace onto an existing pcb.  Best to just direct wire the new parts, as seen in infiniti's pictures.

[infiniti]

Yup, I cut the traces using a dremel and a small bit.  The idea is to get through the masking and then the copper while not digging to deep into the PCB.

Soldering time!

Workstation:


Love notes:


Bundle of snakes:


DONE!

Everything works and I'm typing on it now! *rawr*

I've taken some proper pictures and will post them after editing.

[Hzza]

Really nice mod, I tried doing something similar to my Raptor a couple of months ago (change the left hand mods from 3x1u keys to 2x1.5u). It had to go on hold whilst I moved house but you've inspired me to pick it up again.

I cheated a little with my version though, I used an old G80-1800 PCB I had laying around as my cutting template for the new mods .

[infiniti]

PICTURES!!!!!

Specs:

More

- SWITCHES

Lock Keys (i.e. Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, Num Lock) -- blue stem with clear spring Space Bar -- linear gray with stock spring Escape and Pause/Break -- black stem with clear spring Stabilized Keys (Backspace, Enter, NumPad +, NumPad 0, NumPad Enter) -- black stem with black spring Fist Keys (left is Menu and right is right shift) -- clear stem with clear spring (fist bump...get it? )) All others -- black stem with 55g gold spring

- LUBE

50-50 mix of Krytox GPL 206 grease and Krytox VPF 1506 oil used on all switches excluding the lock keys (i.e. Caps Lock, Scroll Lock, and Num Lock) as the lubricant may inhibit the switch’s click mechanism

- STABILIZERS

PCB-mount, clipped, and lubed

- SWITCH STICKERS

Metallic Silver

- OTHERS

Lower case housing dampened with 0.8mm rubber tape Modified Bottom Row from 1-1-1-6-1-1-1-1 to 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1.5 Modified 2.25u Left Shift to 1.25u Left Shift and 1u Windows Key Modified the 2u Right Shift to 1u Menu and 1u Right Shift Modified the F Cluster to preserve the two-tone color theme       from       F1   F2   F3   F4   F5    F6       F7   F8   F9   F10 F11  F12       to       F1   F3   F5   F7   F9    F11       F2   F4   F6   F8   F10  F12

Oh...the Bro Fist^TM keycaps...have clears stems so that when I press them...they bump back!



And more epicness on the flip side:




Edit: fixed the specs.
Edit2: Reuploaded image(s). RIP Dropbox Public Folder.

[CPTBadAss]

Worst mod, Bob's not on it. Instead you've got some silly purple bot

Just kidding, great job! I'd love to see a typing video. But thank you for all the pictures, a great guide for later projects .

[infiniti]

Worst mod, Bob's not on it. Instead you've got some silly purple bot

Just kidding, great job! I'd love to see a typing video. But thank you for all the pictures, a great guide for later projects .

So...I finally got around to taking a typing video

[azhdar]

Very sick Keyboard , congrats .

[xorian]

The epoxy has been set and is curing.  I'm just waiting for it to harden a bit more before cleaning off more residue.

(Attachment Link)

Thanks for documenting your mod.  I'm thinking of doing something similar to some G80s I have which have a mostly ANSI layout but with an ISO enter:

https://i.imgur.com/k4h1IC0.jpg

I'd really rather have the standard ANSI enter key and the backslash/pipe key in the right place.  I had been trying to come up with a way to do this when I found your thread, and this looks like a better idea than anything I had come up with.

I do have just one question though: what kind of epoxy did you use to fill the holes in the PCB?  There seem to be quite a few products out there which might work, but if you've found one that works for the exact project I'm thinking of on an almost identical PCB I'd love to know what it is.

[infiniti]

The epoxy has been set and is curing.  I'm just waiting for it to harden a bit more before cleaning off more residue.

(Attachment Link)

Thanks for documenting your mod.  I'm thinking of doing something similar to some G80s I have which have a mostly ANSI layout but with an ISO enter:

https://i.imgur.com/k4h1IC0.jpg

I'd really rather have the standard ANSI enter key and the backslash/pipe key in the right place.  I had been trying to come up with a way to do this when I found your thread, and this looks like a better idea than anything I had come up with.

I do have just one question though: what kind of epoxy did you use to fill the holes in the PCB?  There seem to be quite a few products out there which might work, but if you've found one that works for the exact project I'm thinking of on an almost identical PCB I'd love to know what it is.

You're welcome!

I originally wanted to use loctite two-part epoxy because of the convenient dispenser but it wasn't readily available where I shop:



I ended up using a locally-manufactured all purpose two-part epoxy that cures in a pink color and was available in abundance and very affordable:



I've since bought some clear epoxy but I haven't had the opportunity to try it out yet.