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Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together. Show Image
Building my first board tomorrow or tuesday, 488(?) solder points. Thanks for all the help from this thread, I think I am ready.
Quote from: stancato9 on Sun, 27 April 2014, 12:25:50Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together. Show ImageI'm pretty sure that's just dirt. See that "lip" on the tip? I think that is what holds it together.
I've come to the conclusion that it is unfixable. The lip just started falling apart and was very soft. Thanks for the help though!
I'm contemplating on purchasing this one:http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57532.0Is it recommended for a beginner to mid desoldering? How about it's quality? I was kinda tired of using cheap soldapullt which have end up me destroying the pcb for too much heat applied.
Quote from: jorgenslee on Sun, 27 April 2014, 23:11:03I'm contemplating on purchasing this one:http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57532.0Is it recommended for a beginner to mid desoldering? How about it's quality? I was kinda tired of using cheap soldapullt which have end up me destroying the pcb for too much heat applied. If you apply too much heat that is not the fault auf your sodapullt?
Yeah I guess, but the cheap one I tried sometimes failed in the first try resulting to many attempts on sucking the solder. In the end too much heat is applied.
Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...
Quote from: BlueBär on Mon, 28 April 2014, 04:47:31Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...Usually in 300-350C. that's the recommended temps right?
If your first attempt to suck the solder up fails - re fill the hole, and then heat it until you see the solder drop into the hole, then try again, but this second time, before you use the solderpult, try to just heat for a little longer.
Quote from: jorgenslee on Mon, 28 April 2014, 06:33:27Quote from: BlueBär on Mon, 28 April 2014, 04:47:31Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...Usually in 300-350C. that's the recommended temps right?Yeah fine - I normally leave my station on 350 for 60/40 solder. If your first attempt to suck the solder up fails - re fill the hole, and then heat it until you see the solder drop into the hole, then try again, but this second time, before you use the solderpult, try to just heat for a little longer. Heat doesn't really kill stuff (I know it does, but it doesn't really for us building keyboards) but it's more about having too much load and a bad thermal interface ie. heating the wrong bit, or just having an iron with loads of watts. I tend to do all my soldering with a 35w iron, as I use leaded solder - desoldering I have a 70w vacuum powered station so I can easily desolder stock boards that have ROHS solder.
Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?It has never had an LED installed in that switch.I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.
Quote from: stancato9 on Tue, 29 April 2014, 11:16:06Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?It has never had an LED installed in that switch.I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.I think other members already faced and had a resolution for this.You can use search function for further information.For example:http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48803.0Show Image
Quote from: stancato9 on Tue, 29 April 2014, 11:16:06Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?It has never had an LED installed in that switch.I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.Thanks BlueBar, I have tried mutiple LEDs and redone the soldering job. I have also removed all solder and put the leads in without soldering and bent them around. Even when it does come on, it's extremely dim in comparison to the same white LEDs I have on the other swithces.Maybe the soldering or the LED is bad? Try soldering in a new one.
Thanks BlueBar, I have tried mutiple LEDs and redone the soldering job. I have also removed all solder and put the leads in without soldering and bent them around. Even when it does come on, it's extremely dim in comparison to the same white LEDs I have on the other swithces.
The reason you cannot add an led to it is because the left windows key also functions as caps lock(I think) if you use a dip switch. This is normal, although it should have had an led inside of it to begin with.Source: I just added leds to my poker last night
If I take this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C5HUI8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A136TEY25G8OA7put on back of fan, will it be a solder fume sucker?
Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).
why does my samurai sound like Japanese Batman?
Quote from: minho on Wed, 30 April 2014, 21:54:05Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).This might not be the most productive advice, but it's certainly exactly what I did when I lived in the dorms.I just used my soldering iron. My roommate and I were both EE and needed to solder, so we just did. We also used a toaster and a hot plate though, so we weren't exactly model dorm tenants. On the flip side, however, our dorm also flooded with sewage, so the dorm wasn't exactly a model...dorm...either.
Anyway, that's the best advice I can offer.
Quote from: HoffmanMyster on Wed, 30 April 2014, 22:25:56Quote from: minho on Wed, 30 April 2014, 21:54:05Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).This might not be the most productive advice, but it's certainly exactly what I did when I lived in the dorms.I just used my soldering iron. My roommate and I were both EE and needed to solder, so we just did. We also used a toaster and a hot plate though, so we weren't exactly model dorm tenants. On the flip side, however, our dorm also flooded with sewage, so the dorm wasn't exactly a model...dorm...either.So basically just solder in secret and hope my roommate is chill?QuoteAnyway, that's the best advice I can offer.Yea, I suppose this question has too many other variables to it to be answered that adequately. I was just hoping for some clever ideas of places to solder or something. It was mostly a desperation/panic post after the thought occurred to me today
Could I use this to clean flux from PCBs?Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner: http://www.cyclo.com/C87.htmlSafety Data Sheet: http://cyclo.com/MSDS/SDS/C87_SDS.pdf
Quote from: infiniti on Fri, 02 May 2014, 03:21:44Could I use this to clean flux from PCBs?Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner: http://www.cyclo.com/C87.htmlSafety Data Sheet: http://cyclo.com/MSDS/SDS/C87_SDS.pdfI'm not sure about that but I'm pretty sure this MG Chemical 824 Isopropyl Alcohol will work perfectlyhttp://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaners/electronic-cleaners/isopropyl-alcohol-824/Edit: After checking, I think the Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner is for cleaning the contact points, so I don't think it works for flux cleaning purposehttp://www.cyclo.com/PDF/pis/ENG/C87_ENG.pdf"Removes soil and other contaminants from electrical and electronic parts"
I see. Can I use 70% isopropyl alcohol?
Quote from: infiniti on Fri, 02 May 2014, 07:46:31I see. Can I use 70% isopropyl alcohol?If you already had it, you can try it. If you didn't, you should go for 99% because I think 70% isopropyl alcohol (+30% water) is very weak for cleaning flux residue. That doesn't count the fact that there is 30% of water left on the surface after cleaning. That's why 99% isopropyl alcohol is recommended.
Tried a little on one part of the PCB and a soft toothbrush. It got some out but is it normal that the PCB feels a bit tacky/sticky after?
Quote from: infiniti on Fri, 02 May 2014, 08:09:15Tried a little on one part of the PCB and a soft toothbrush. It got some out but is it normal that the PCB feels a bit tacky/sticky after?It should be dry and clean. If it is still sticky, the residue is still there. You should apply stronger dis-solvent.
chemtronics makes a flux residue remover...
whoops, the one i use is actually an MG chem product: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/flux-removers/flux-remover-for-pc-boards-4140/extremely volatile, don't advise having it shipped. MG chem products can be picked up at fry's or industrial chemical supply houses.
1. I wish to make a backlit keyboard using the Sprit 60% PCB. What size LEDs should I use, and what type of resistor? Is there any type of LED I should stay away from?2. Also are there any issues in trying to create a backlit keyboard with the Sprit PCB that you guys may know of? (For ex. I think the bottom left Ctrl button on the Poker doesn't support backlighting?)
I need some help about making a backlit keyboard - I got some advice from the Sprit Model 1 group buy thread but I figured I'd the rest of my questions here to stop derailing that thread, and because this is a thread intended for soldering help.I wish to make a backlit keyboard using the Sprit 60% PCB. What size LEDs should I use, and what type of resistor? Is there any type of LED I should stay away from?Also are there any issues in trying to create a backlit keyboard with the Sprit PCB that you guys may know of? (For ex. I think the bottom left Ctrl button on the Poker doesn't support backlighting?)Also, am I correct in that regular diodes do not need resistor? What type of diode is typically used on a keyboard?