CMoy Amplifier

[PointyFox]

But I have the 80s? And I think they're comfortable and I like the soundstage? Sorry we have different opinions but I'm not sure your opinion is justified by saying "are well known" and acting like you're some high-flung audiophile. I'll agree to disagree. ^__^

I've compared the SR80 to many other headphones that I was in possession of at the same time.  Here is a list of the headphones I've compared: Sennheiser HD600 + Stefan AudioArt Equinox, Sennheiser HD650, Denon D2000, Beyerdynamic DT990 Premium 600 ohm, Beyerdynamic DT880 Premium 600 ohm, AKG K702, Bose Triport AE 1, Panasonic RP HT355, Stax SR Lambda Pro, Grado SR-60i, Grado SR-80i,  ViSang R02.

Check this out, it's a detailed review of most of the top headphones.  I agree 100% with the observations made about headphones I've listened to:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/634201/battle-of-the-flagships-57-headphones-compared-update-ultimate-ears-uerm-added-4-14-13

[CPTBadAss]

Oooo, knowledge bombs. See, we should've started off like this

[thegunner100]

Grados are still amazing for rock and metal, even if they don't stand up to the technicalities and dynamics of higher-end headphones. People don't buy grados looking for the best sound quality. And besides... grados are better than most of the crap that's being sold in stores nowadays.

[PointyFox]

SR80i though has very good performance for its price. 
For open-back headphones for:
0-$60 I recommend Koss PortaPro
$60-200 I recommend Grado SR80i
$200-600 I recommend Sennheiser HD600
$600+ I haven't personally tried, but my top choice based on what I've read/heard are the Stax SR-009 which is like $10-15k with amp.

I love the transparent-ness of the upper-end Stax electrostatics.  The first time I put one on, I thought there were speakers playing at 10 feet around me.  Doesn't sound like it's coming from the headphones at all, the way the sound waves are positioned.

[PointyFox]

Grados are still amazing for rock and metal, even if they don't stand up to the technicalities and dynamics of higher-end headphones. People don't buy grados looking for the best sound quality. And besides... grados are better than most of the crap that's being sold in stores nowadays.

True.  Though I do like good imaging, even for rock and metal.  I tend to only listen to the better recorded stuff.  Most rock/metal sounds like mud anyway, which is fine for Grado's lack of imaging.  The brightness also helps the muddiness sound a bit better as well. 

[thegunner100]

Those are very general recommendations though. Most of the population seems to like headphones that are warm and smooth. Then there are others like me who prefer the neutral, maybe slightly bright headphones. Then there are bassheads out there that want to shatter their skulls with bass.

I could add a few headphones that may suit other people for each of those catagories.

[CPTBadAss]

I'd be interested in both "warm and smooth" and "neutral". Skull-shattering bass isn't up my alley. And I wub my metal ^__^.

[thegunner100]

Budget? Do you have an amp? What do you use to play your music (source)? Open or closed (open headphones generally sound better if you're listening in a quiet environment)?

[CPTBadAss]

Budget: ~$200
Amp: CMoy Soon^TM
Source: My computer with with soundcard listed in the OP
Open

[PointyFox]

Those are very general recommendations though. Most of the population seems to like headphones that are warm and smooth. Then there are others like me who prefer the neutral, maybe slightly bright headphones. Then there are bassheads out there that want to shatter their skulls with bass.

I could add a few headphones that may suit other people for each of those catagories.

Everyone prefers neutral headphones.  If they don't, they haven't heard good headphones.  A basshead going from beats headphones to HD650 for instance would appreciate how much better the bass sounds and would no longer be a basshead.  Besides, they're not a real basshead if they're listening to headphones anyway.  They can still listen to bass-heavy songs.  They just won't be muddy sounding.

[dndlmx]

Grado are well known for their terrible price to performance ratio after the SR80s.

I'll keep this in mind. I've got some Alessandro MS-1, from what I understand they're basically SR80. I read they're good "bang for buck", at least in $100 tier. I'm not exactly an audiophile. And I've never shopped in the advanced tiers for Grado, or any headphone brand for that matter.

[thegunner100]

I can say for sure that not everyone prefers neutral headphones. How do you explain the people who like LCD2s and 3s? The Audez'es are definitely not neutral, yet they're loved by so many people. Many of the TOTL CIEMs are definitely not neutral, but they're more popular than the CIEMs tuned to be neutral. Well I don't want to generalize bassheads, but I think bassheads consider themselves bassheads even though they listen to headphones. Some people appreciate the quantity over quality. It's good to have choices, isn't it?

Anyways, CPTBadAss,

ATH-AD700 - $100 - Spacious, open headphones. Fairly neutral, bass-light. Would probably be great for orchestral or instrumental music. Never heard it myself, so I can't say for sure. The headphones and pads are huge though, so it might not fit everyone

AKG K701/K702/Q701 - Slightly less than $200 if you buy used - Kind of similiar sound signature to the AD700, but slightly brighter and has better dynamics. Has velour pads, so they're very comfortable in that respect. The bumps on the headband might be uncomfortable though.

Hifiman HE-300 - Currently $100 @ J&R and out of stock, but you can still place an order - Warm and smooth sound signature with rolled off treble. Stock cable is microphonic though.

HD 598 - Can be found for less than $200 used - Mid centric, slightly bright. Low on bass impact.

DT 880/600 ohm - There's one on head-fi for $200 right now - Neutral, slightly bright. Best used with tube amps but might be driven fine with your cmoy. Extremely comfortable. Probably the most detailed out of everything here, along with the AKGs. They're fairly "fast", so they'll be great for metal along with the brightness.

Grado SR225i - $200 - An improvement over the sr80i but 2x the price. These will satisfy your metal cravings.

If we take into consideration closed headphones, then we can add:

dt770/80 ohm, ATH-A700X, and possibly a few others that I can't think of atm.

I hope that helps!

[CPTBadAss]

Thanks for the recommendations thegunner. I'll have to head back to my local headphone shop soon and check some of those headphones out.

[TheProfosist]

I recently picked up AIAIAI TMA-1's they caught my eye based on their style and build quality as I was leaving a store (youll never guess where). I was passively looking for a more portable pair of headphones than my MDR-V6's for some time, you know something a bit smaller and a bit more durable. The TMA-1s far exceeded my expectations in both reguards and have great sound which surprised me because of where I found them. They do have a more pleasing sound than the V6's as well, which when on the go I seem to prefer. Anyways I really love them and theres kinda a fun story as to how I found and acquired them. I do have one problem though their impeadence is much too low for my DAC, the MDR-V6's had the same problem here also. I know I didnt buy them for this use but it would be nice to be able to use them here as well.



On a side not do NOT buy the studio version currently its basically the same headphone with different over the earcups. Which normally wouldnt be a bad thing except the better cups they ship with the regualrly fail and come apart even on the revised versions and since the original is a DJ headphone they wouldnt be considered flat. They are supposedly coming out with a revised studio version soonish, which will have different flatter sounding drivers and fixed earcups which im eagarly awaiting. I do hope though that the impeadance is higher so I can actually use it with my DAC which I dont see why they wouldnt/couldnt do since their going to use new/different drivers.

[CPTBadAss]

Can you explain what a DAC is? I've heard it mentioned a lot but I'm not fully understanding what it is.

[mkawa]

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42650.0

"a DAC" usually refers to an ic that takes digital signals and then decodes them and extrapolates them into a analog signals. basically think square waves into the DAC IC and sinus waves out. this is often accomplished via a resistor ladder and the complexity and tolerances of the resistor ladder within the litho determines how accurate the IC Is. further, there are annoying aliasing effects happening all over the place that makes ICs of this type quite annoying to implement and gives them nasty side-effects like ringing etc.

[thegunner100]

TheProfosist, do you mean your amp or music player? Usually you don't plug your headphones directly into a dac because it has very high output impedance (way more than suitable for any headphones). They are 32ohm so they're fairly low impedance, but not as low as IEMs. How is the impedance affecting your sound? Usually if the output impedance of your amp is too high for your headphones, your headphones will lose control of the bass. For balanced armature drivers, this will also affect the treble. Another thing would be that if your headphone impedance is low, then it will get loud very quickly, and that could be a problem with amps that have high gain. Also, low impedance or sensitive headphones are more prone to hiss or high floor noise due to the high gain as well. There are impedance adapters that you can use to increase the resistance. It'll lower the volume of your headphones but in return it will reduce the floor noise and hissing, but it can also slightly change the sound signature as well.

As a general rule, you want the impedance of your headphones to be at least 8x the output impedance of your amp. So if the output impedance of your amp is 10ohms, then you'll want to use headphones that have atleast 80ohms. Solid state amps generally have low output impedances (<1ohm) suitable for most headphones whereas tube amps have high output impedances suitable for high impedance headphones (250ohm or higher)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300453295797?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ETYMOTIC-ER4P-TO-ER4S-RESISTOR-ADAPTOR-3-5MM-PLUG-/290372905689?pt=US_MP3_Player_Cables_Adapters&hash=item439b92ead9

 A DAC is a digital to analog converter. It converts your digital music (0s and 1s) into an analog (electrical) signal that can be processed and amplified by an amplifier. Motherboards have built-in DACs, sound cards are DACs and sometimes amplifiers, your phone has a DAC, and portable music players have a DAC. Usually a DAC refers to an external dedicated DAC. Getting a better dac will improve the sound quality that you get out of your headphones, but headphones always comes first for sound quality, then an amp, then a DAC. This is probably the cheapest, quality dac that you could buy:

http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=83

Edit: Like mkawa said, a poorly implemented DAC will introduce hitter, distortion, etc.

Otherwise if you go up to $100, the Schiit Modi is a great dac that is amazing until you reach the $400+ range. Even then, you're better off upgrading your headphones or amp before a dac. Also take a look into the Schiit magni if you want a budget amp. It is also $100 and makes a great combo with the Modi. It has high enough enough output power to drive most headphones adequately. I have a Schiit
Asgard 2 coming in next week, which I have high expectations of.

http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14

[TheProfosist]

Well I think what I have now, ASUS Essence One, is a DAC+headphone amp in one or something, though I also use it to output to my Adam A5X's via XLR. Anyone have any idea on the impeadance issue? I know the highest Essence one has a switch for IEMs which would probably accomplish what I need but I could only get the lowest essence one, which besides that switch the only difference in the oamps.

EDIT: the issue I have using the MDR-V6's and TMA-1's with the essence one is that the volume levels go like this: click one=nothing, click two=fairly quiet, click there=loud, click four=quite loud, click five=very loud, anything above that for me is uncomfortable for extended listening. BTW im not ever through a quarter turn yet...

[thegunner100]

Well I think what I have now, ASUS Essence One, is a DAC+headphone amp in one or something, though I also use it to output to my Adam A5X's via XLR. Anyone have any idea on the impeadance issue? I know the highest Essence one has a switch for IEMs which would probably accomplish what I need but I could only get the lowest essence one, which besides that switch the only difference in the oamps.

The Asus Essence One has an output impedance of 10, which is way too high for the AIAIAI TMA-1 and MDR-V6.

[TheProfosist]

Well I think what I have now, ASUS Essence One, is a DAC+headphone amp in one or something, though I also use it to output to my Adam A5X's via XLR. Anyone have any idea on the impeadance issue? I know the highest Essence one has a switch for IEMs which would probably accomplish what I need but I could only get the lowest essence one, which besides that switch the only difference in the oamps.

The Asus Essence One has an output impedance of 10, which is way too high for the AIAIAI TMA-1 and MDR-V6.

yep
I did an update above with the specific problem in my previous post but your just way too nquick for me on mu phone.

I know the essence one muse has a switch on it for IEMs would this work for me and solve my problems? If so I wonder what or how its implemented. They also have a new external dac coming out which is lowere end that has a switch in it for lower impeadance headphones so I guess they realised not everyone has 600ohm headphones.

[jwaz]

I'm thinking about building an O2 and picking up either a DT-880, HE-400 or maybe HD-600s (all different sounds from what I've read)


Any thoughts on these or the amp?

[thegunner100]

The IEM switch will most likely lower the gain of the amp's output. It should solve your volume problem, give it a try!

[CPTBadAss]

I'd also like to know more about the O2. I've heard its the "proper" or upgraded version of the CMoy but I know little about it.

[TheProfosist]

I'm thinking about building an O2 and picking up either a DT-880, HE-400 or maybe HD-600s (all different sounds from what I've heard but they sound intriguing)


Any thoughts on these or the amp?

couldnt really tell you as ive never used a portable style amp. Stuff ive had has randged from highend soundblaster audigy, x-fi and what not to a Roland Edirol FA-66 I still have around, though it sees limited use since its firwire and thats actually quite uncommon on newer PCs. I also have a Focusrite Scarlette 2i4 which replaced the FA-66 for a short time since Roland said there werent going to make Win8 drivers, evertually they did so they must have gotten enough requests for it. Soon after that happened though I got my Essence One which is a huge step up. I wouldnt recommend the Scarlette 2i4 really unless that it you need something like that that is quite portable as it runs off a single USB port. Also unless your using ASIO it only runs as high as 16bit for some reason using the general windows driver (I didnt know this when I bought it) and all the inputs and outputs show up as one input and one output in windows, their all on accessible using the ASIO driver in a compatible program. The main reason I picked up the 2i4 was it was cheapish, did what I needed, and had Win8 support.

[TheProfosist]

The IEM switch will most likely lower the gain of the amp's output. It should solve your volume problem, give it a try!

I dont have the iem switch as its only on the muse edition of the essence one (stupid ikr) and i have the lowest model. I didnt think this was going to be a problem as I could just upgrade the oamps later when I had the monies.

[thegunner100]

The IEM switch will most likely lower the gain of the amp's output. It should solve your volume problem, give it a try!

I dont have the iem switch as its only on the muse edition of the essence one (stupid ikr) and i have the lowest model. I didnt think this was going to be a problem as I could just upgrade the oamps later when I had the monies.

Ahh okay. Your best bet would be looking into the impedance adapters that I linked above. They're fairly inexpensive and they work very well. I have a 200ohm adapter for my gr07s.

[thegunner100]

The O2 is a nice amp for its price. People have said that it's very neutral and will drive most headphones that you throw at it. Its main competitor is the schiit magni, which is only $100 and the two sound practically the same.

Like you said, the DT-880, HE-400, HD-600 all sound very different, but will be driven by either the O2 or the Magni. The dt880/600 I've personally owned and loved; they're very comfortable and have a neutral but slightly bright sound signature. They will work well with pretty much every genre except for bass-heavy music. Personally I think they have the best price/performance out of the three. The HE-400 i've only tried in a store with my headstage arrow and sansa fuze, but they're fairly comfortable with the velour pads and I liked what I heard through my portable setup. Im sure i'd like it more if I tried it with my home setup. They're said to be slightly bright, with silky smooth mids and bass. The HD600 i've never really got to try at all except at a very noisy store, with their equipment; but they're amazing from what i've read.

If you can try the three out before you buy, then definitely do that and pick the one with the sound signature that works for you.

[TheProfosist]

...I thought the O2 was a portable one shows how little I know or really care to know.

[thegunner100]

Its more transportable than portable. I wouldnt want to strap a O2 to my DAP.

[jwaz]

gunner have you seen any good threads on headphones specific to exp metal/ drone doom/ shoegaze/ etc? I'd like to start there and see what I can find.

[TheProfosist]

The IEM switch will most likely lower the gain of the amp's output. It should solve your volume problem, give it a try!

I dont have the iem switch as its only on the muse edition of the essence one (stupid ikr) and i have the lowest model. I didnt think this was going to be a problem as I could just upgrade the oamps later when I had the monies.

Ahh okay. Your best bet would be looking into the impedance adapters that I linked above. They're fairly inexpensive and they work very well. I have a 200ohm adapter for my gr07s.

What size adapter would you recommend for my 32ohm headphones as it looks like the new studios will still be 32ohm as they were just announced here http://goo.gl/pQku9 which if their the overall improvement they said/say that it will be/is.

[thegunner100]

I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.

[TheProfosist]

I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.

so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC.  I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.

[swagpiratex]

I think that every manufacturer puts out a model that has a couple of strong points at each price range, so it's hard to recommend just one to everyone.

Given that OP listens to rock, I would rec the SR-80's, which he already has. I own the AD700/SR-80's/DT770s because they all serve a different purpose.  (Soundstage/Midrange/Bass, respectively).

[thegunner100]

I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.

so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC.  I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.

The best one will be the adapter. Else you'd have to make your own or get someone else to.
http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor-Cable-Inch/dp/B001DK1ZVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368738275&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+adapter

Or did you mean 6.35mm male to 3.5mm female? I think these are fine tbh but of course having a 6.35mm termination and then some cable length before 3.5mm female would be nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-Gold-Plated-Plug-Audio-Jack-Male-1-4-6-35mm-to-1-8-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-/160881574088?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item25754a00c8

Edit: wrong link for the grado adapter.

[PointyFox]

I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.

so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC.  I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.

The best one will be the grado extension cable. Else you'd have to make your own or get someone else to.
http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Extension-Cable-4-57m-Headphone/dp/B0006DPNNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368644349&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+extension

Or did you mean 6.35mm male to 3.5mm female? I think these are fine tbh but of course having a 6.35mm termination and then some cable length before 3.5mm female would be nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-Gold-Plated-Plug-Audio-Jack-Male-1-4-6-35mm-to-1-8-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-/160881574088?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item25754a00c8

Rip off.  A decent $2 cable will pass the same signal.  That's why we use $5 leads for $50,000 electronics testing equipment.  If you feel like increasing the resistance, add a $0.10 resistor.

I'm thinking about building an O2 and picking up either a DT-880, HE-400 or maybe HD-600s (all different sounds from what I've heard but they sound intriguing)


Any thoughts on these or the amp?

couldnt really tell you as ive never used a portable style amp. Stuff ive had has randged from highend soundblaster audigy, x-fi and what not to a Roland Edirol FA-66 I still have around, though it sees limited use since its firwire and thats actually quite uncommon on newer PCs. I also have a Focusrite Scarlette 2i4 which replaced the FA-66 for a short time since Roland said there werent going to make Win8 drivers, evertually they did so they must have gotten enough requests for it. Soon after that happened though I got my Essence One which is a huge step up. I wouldnt recommend the Scarlette 2i4 really unless that it you need something like that that is quite portable as it runs off a single USB port. Also unless your using ASIO it only runs as high as 16bit for some reason using the general windows driver (I didnt know this when I bought it) and all the inputs and outputs show up as one input and one output in windows, their all on accessible using the ASIO driver in a compatible program. The main reason I picked up the 2i4 was it was cheapish, did what I needed, and had Win8 support.

The HD600 is both more comfortable and neutral than the DT880, with MUCH better bass impact.  DT880 + percussion was weak like these guys who hurt their wrists using rubber domes and MX Black keys.  I haven't heard the HE-500, apparently it's the best headphone out there in terms of price/performance, the HD600 coming in 2nd place, and the DT880 coming in 4th. 

[thegunner100]

May we know where we can get a $.10 resistor? And instructions on how to implement this resistor? The impedance adapter is useful for those who don't have the knowledge in DIY. At least it's not as outrageous as headphone cables and interconnects. I don't mean to scam anyone, I'm just giving a possible solution to a problem.

Neutral depends on what your reference is. The HD600 is warm with veiled trebles while the dt880 is light on bass while being bright. Whatever.

[SmallFry]

Resistors are DIRT cheap, just FYI. They're less than a penny, IIRC at Digikey/Mouser. Not worth the shipping unless you buy at least 75+.

[TheProfosist]

I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.

so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC.  I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.

The best one will be the grado extension cable. Else you'd have to make your own or get someone else to.
http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Extension-Cable-4-57m-Headphone/dp/B0006DPNNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368644349&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+extension

Or did you mean 6.35mm male to 3.5mm female? I think these are fine tbh but of course having a 6.35mm termination and then some cable length before 3.5mm female would be nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-Gold-Plated-Plug-Audio-Jack-Male-1-4-6-35mm-to-1-8-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-/160881574088?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item25754a00c8

cries so no ones makes any guess im going to have to solder up some of my own. I found a guide for the impedance adapter using resistors http://goo.gl/OQmfm now i just need to fimd somewhere to get dome nice cable and ends. did you want me to make you anything thegunner?

[TheProfosist]

Ran into a small problem I have 0 idea where I would even start to look to find highend "audiophile grade" DIY parts as I havnt tinkered with that sort of thing yet. Anyone here have any idea?

[mkawa]

crap all sounds the same for the most part. in terms of resistors, vishay 1%s are easier to match and may have measurably less noise if you have incredibly precise test equipment and edge up against their current limits, but meh. there are actually big measurable difference in capacitors in the signal path, but most reasonable audio amplifiers (and in particular the textbook cmoy or jung multiloop) only has DC coupling capacitors, and the common wima polyesters widely available via mouser and digikey sound fine. no need for fancy auricaps or whatever. for power supply reservoir capacitors, nichicons are fine. i mean seriously, there's no noise to suppress out of a battery, even the beefiest of opas isn't going to draw that much current with the craziest dynamic and lowest impedance phones you can think of.

[TheProfosist]

crap all sounds the same for the most part. in terms of resistors, vishay 1%s are easier to match and may have measurably less noise if you have incredibly precise test equipment and edge up against their current limits, but meh. there are actually big measurable difference in capacitors in the signal path, but most reasonable audio amplifiers (and in particular the textbook cmoy or jung multiloop) only has DC coupling capacitors, and the common wima polyesters widely available via mouser and digikey sound fine. no need for fancy auricaps or whatever. for power supply reservoir capacitors, nichicons are fine. i mean seriously, there's no noise to suppress out of a battery, even the beefiest of opas isn't going to draw that much current with the craziest dynamic and lowest impedance phones you can think of.

were you answering me? cause im just making 2 cables im more looking for wire, connectors, and sleeving currently...

[mkawa]

what?e

[thegunner100]

Brian of BTG-Audio sells some of the wires that he uses  to make his own cables. They're very nice quality; I had my vsonic gr07 re-cabled by him with the clear copper wire. Otherwise I don't really know of any other wires.

He has a very nice picture of plugs that people like to use. The brands are Furutech, Viablue, Oyaide, and Neutrik (cheapest). Again, I don't really know a good source for these but at least it'll give you an idea of what to look for.

I am actually very interested in getting a lightweight 6.35mm male to 3.5mm female extension cable made. I just love how the 6.35mm Oyaide jack looks xD.

[TheProfosist]

what?e

I know im totally off topic in this thread but one thing lead to another and yea...

but im looking to make an impedance adapter so my TMA-1's and MDR-V6's work properly with my ASUS Essence One 1/4in to 1/4in (pigtail style) and make some 1/4in to 3.5mm pgtails, should probably start a new thread shouldnt I...

[mkawa]

wires and plugs have no audible effect or measurable effect, sorry.


** unless they're just straight up broken. that's why people go 1/4" or neutrik locking over 3.5mm. 3.5mm jacks just break constantly. SO MANY BROKEN PLUGS AKSJDLAKDJALKJSDASD

[thegunner100]

Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.

Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x

[TheProfosist]

wires and plugs have no audible effect or measurable effect, sorry.


** unless they're just straight up broken. that's why people go 1/4" or neutrik locking over 3.5mm. 3.5mm jacks just break constantly. SO MANY BROKEN PLUGS AKSJDLAKDJALKJSDASD

thus why i put audiophile grade in quotes. I dont think its a bad thing that i want to use nice wire, connectors, and sleeving. O i forgot nice heatshrink as well

Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.

Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x

hmm well the last 2 fit together as I need the DIY parts to make the impedance adapter I need because they dont offer what im looking for. O and I also need that for my headphone recommendation? I dont know how we got off the Cmoy topic, hope it wasnt me (probably was).

[PointyFox]

Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.

Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x

Ain't nobody got money for ergonomic plugs and cables.

[TheProfosist]

Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.

Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x

Ain't nobody got money for ergonomic plugs and cables.

ergonomic im just looking for idk really really nice and possibly over kill for the heck of it since theyll be my first cable like this and their just short pigtails.