TriC 80 at Originative

[pixelpusher]

https://www.originativeco.com/products/tric-80?variant=31754345424

Just trying to figure out what this is or where it originated from.  Is this an originative project, or are they helping out another group buy?  I kinda need one... It's kinda awesome.

You can lock/delete this thread if a GB page shows up on here.

[Mechboards]

Timeline:

Group Buy - March 6
Finish Group Buy - March 17
Send Payment - March 24
Production Finish - May 26
Send out all orders - June 9

I'm unsure if they are producing it or paying for a production run.

[justinmtype]

https://www.originativeco.com/products/tric-80?variant=31754345424

Just trying to figure out what this is or where it originated from.  Is this an originative project, or are they helping out another group buy?  I kinda need one... It's kinda awesome.

You can lock/delete this thread if a GB page shows up on here.

Looks like an update:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5xdsum/comment/dehlke5

[Puddsy]

i think the tric boards are made by someone outside originative (meaning they're just in the middle)

not sure tho

[Arallu]

They are also on taobao, same guy that sold the Tric60 in China - https://world.taobao.com/item/543070106999.htm

[rioc]

sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...

this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?

pic for reference:


(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering)

[pixelpusher]

sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...

this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?

pic for reference:

Show Image

(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)

They have to add up to 15, so check the math.  I wouldn't count on anything working out perfectly until you get some keycaps on switches and place them in the holes.  I don't see any documentation online showing what layouts the bottom row supports. Just laying the caps won't show you that. 

[rioc]

sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...

this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?

pic for reference:

Show Image

(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)

They have to add up to 15, so check the math.  I wouldn't count on anything working out perfectly until you get some keycaps on switches and place them in the holes.  I don't see any documentation online showing what layouts the bottom row supports. Just laying the caps won't show you that.

yeah, I know... I was hoping someone had already built his/hers to tell... oh well, I'll have to be patient then

[pixelpusher]

sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...

this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?

pic for reference:

Show Image

(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)

They have to add up to 15, so check the math.  I wouldn't count on anything working out perfectly until you get some keycaps on switches and place them in the holes.  I don't see any documentation online showing what layouts the bottom row supports. Just laying the caps won't show you that.

yeah, I know... I was hoping someone had already built his/hers to tell... oh well, I'll have to be patient then

Haven't seen many of these built with blockers at all.  I'll be interested to see what you come up with.  I really liked this board but didn't have money at the time to buy one.

[rioc]

sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...

this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?

pic for reference:

Show Image

(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)

They have to add up to 15, so check the math.  I wouldn't count on anything working out perfectly until you get some keycaps on switches and place them in the holes.  I don't see any documentation online showing what layouts the bottom row supports. Just laying the caps won't show you that.

yeah, I know... I was hoping someone had already built his/hers to tell... oh well, I'll have to be patient then

Haven't seen many of these built with blockers at all.  I'll be interested to see what you come up with.  I really liked this board but didn't have money at the time to buy one.

Now I'm regretting I didn't get the 6.25U hammer carbon spacebar... I did the math with the mounting holes: the only lautet I can do is 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25
I was hoping to get a 7u spacebar in there. Might put penumbra on it after all... Carbon just seemed like a good match with the hexagons, but oh well

Sent from my DREA100 using Tapatalk

[SamirD]

Lovely collection rioc!  I'm sure this one will be as awesome as the others you have once you're done with it. 

[odd]

rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.

I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though 

[rioc]

rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.

I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though 

Hi there, couldn't get the side LEDs working either... I think the strips are the same and are just mounted vice-versa, but when I put them on, the keyboard doesn't get recognised anymore, so I took them back off until someone figures it out and tells us (it's a shame).

anyway, this is how it looks at the moment:

[SamirD]

Wow!  Quite lovely! 

How's it feel?

[rioc]

Wow!  Quite lovely! 

How's it feel?

Gorgeous, popped some assorted vintage blacks in there. Went through about 150-200 switches to find those most smooth and consistent

Sent from my DREA100 using Tapatalk

[SamirD]

That's awesome.  Did you have to solder the switches each time or did you make it so you can remove them without soldering?

[Puddsy]

That's awesome.  Did you have to solder the switches each time or did you make it so you can remove them without soldering?

usually pretty easy to tell when they're loose in the hand, but depends on who you are and how you like to work on keyboards

[rioc]

That's awesome.  Did you have to solder the switches each time or did you make it so you can remove them without soldering?

Well the switches I assorted single by hand before I soldered them.

And yeah, I thought of using Holtites to make it hot swappable, but the fit wasn't tight enough for my taste so soldered them in.

Sent from my DREA100 using Tapatalk

[odd]

rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.

I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though 

Hi there, couldn't get the side LEDs working either... I think the strips are the same and are just mounted vice-versa, but when I put them on, the keyboard doesn't get recognised anymore, so I took them back off until someone figures it out and tells us (it's a shame).

anyway, this is how it looks at the moment:

Show Image

That's exactly the same thing that happens to me. The reason why I think there are 2 Right hand ones is because they both have a "R" stamped on them, plus tracing the data/ground/io there is no loop so both cannot be used anyway.  :(

[Vloshko]

rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.

I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though 

Hi there, couldn't get the side LEDs working either... I think the strips are the same and are just mounted vice-versa, but when I put them on, the keyboard doesn't get recognised anymore, so I took them back off until someone figures it out and tells us (it's a shame).

anyway, this is how it looks at the moment:

Show Image

Ever figure out those side LED's? I'm about to start a build.

[rioc]

rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.

I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though 

Hi there, couldn't get the side LEDs working either... I think the strips are the same and are just mounted vice-versa, but when I put them on, the keyboard doesn't get recognised anymore, so I took them back off until someone figures it out and tells us (it's a shame).

anyway, this is how it looks at the moment:

Show Image

Ever figure out those side LED's? I'm about to start a build.

Unfortunately not... Same to you if you find out ;)

Sent from my DREA100 using Tapatalk

[ander]

Yikes, though—$425 U.S. (plus shipping, I assume) for a keyboard made in Korea for probably around $50? Isn't that a bit exploitative? I mean, you could buy two RealForces for that.

Are you sure you guys aren't falling victim to premium pricing, a kind of psychological manipulation some vendors use to create the impression that products are extra-good just because they cost so much? I'm just saying.

[Puddsy]

Yikes, though—$425 U.S. (plus shipping, I assume) for a keyboard made in Korea for probably around $50? Isn't that a bit exploitative? I mean, you could buy two RealForces for that.

Are you sure you guys aren't falling victim to premium pricing, a kind of psychological manipulation some vendors use to create the impression that products are extra-good just because they cost so much? I'm just saying.

Have you ever gotten a quote from a manufacturer? It's about $250 for a full TKL (depending on manufacturer), plus PCB ($40-50), plate ($20-30), and shipping costs. Then, add a margin on top of that to cover incidental costs, and you're easily at $400.

[Vloshko]

That's exactly the same thing that happens to me. The reason why I think there are 2 Right hand ones is because they both have a "R" stamped on them, plus tracing the data/ground/io there is no loop so both cannot be used anyway. 

Interesting, mine both have an "L" stamped on them, want to trade? lol

[odd]

Anyone get 2 "L" and want to trade one of my "R"

[rioc]

Anyone get 2 "L" and want to trade one of my "R"

sry, already traded my second R for Vloshko's second L

[RyuDragoon]

Sorry to necro this thread but it's important to state that you need to SOLDER the LED strip to the board for it to work.

[Vloshko]

Sorry to necro this thread but it's important to state that you need to SOLDER the LED strip to the board for it to work.

Thank you
However, we are aware of that already. Don't worry you aren't necroing the thread.

Best pic I can manage at this time of what the "L" marked one looks like on both sides prior to soldering: https://imgur.com/a/7vaZ1

[rioc]

Sorry to necro this thread but it's important to state that you need to SOLDER the LED strip to the board for it to work.

Thank you
However, we are aware of that already. Don't worry you aren't necroing the thread.

Best pic I can manage at this time of what the "L" marked one looks like on both sides prior to soldering: https://imgur.com/a/7vaZ1

yeah and this is the "R" right side: https://i.imgur.com/HVrKAnj.jpg
if you solder on two L or two R the board just shortcuts its circuit and it won't be recognised as a device anymore

[itskuroi]

Super necro post, but mine recently arrived after ordering at Originative and was wondering if you guys had an issue with missing screws?

I'm missing the screws to attach the PCB for the USB hub to to the bottom of the board, as well as screws to attach the acrylic to the side piece, and rubber feet.

Board looks great, but I can't really make it haha.

[rioc]

Super necro post, but mine recently arrived after ordering at Originative and was wondering if you guys had an issue with missing screws?

I'm missing the screws to attach the PCB for the USB hub to to the bottom of the board, as well as screws to attach the acrylic to the side piece, and rubber feet.

Board looks great, but I can't really make it haha.

yeah, the screws for the USB hub were missing on mine too as were the rubber feet. But I think the side pieces are just held in place by sliding them into the gap... (?)

[itskuroi]

Ah, how did you end up attaching the PCB to the USB Hub? I have no idea what the screw dimensions for this are lol.

[rioc]

Ah, how did you end up attaching the PCB to the USB Hub? I have no idea what the screw dimensions for this are lol.

well, with the hub-pcb attached to the main one with the flex-cable, the hub sits more or less stable in the bottom part without fixating it. But I did use some double-sided sticky foam in the end to secure it a bit better

[odd]

I'm still looking for a "R" LED strip if anyone get's doubles and wants to swap for a "L"

[itskuroi]

Ah, how did you end up attaching the PCB to the USB Hub? I have no idea what the screw dimensions for this are lol.

well, with the hub-pcb attached to the main one with the flex-cable, the hub sits more or less stable in the bottom part without fixating it. But I did use some double-sided sticky foam in the end to secure it a bit better

Sherry figured it out and it turns out it uses 60% screws, the one that attaches the PCB to the case.

[rioc]

Ah, how did you end up attaching the PCB to the USB Hub? I have no idea what the screw dimensions for this are lol.

well, with the hub-pcb attached to the main one with the flex-cable, the hub sits more or less stable in the bottom part without fixating it. But I did use some double-sided sticky foam in the end to secure it a bit better

Sherry figured it out and it turns out it uses 60% screws, the one that attaches the PCB to the case.

ah that's neat... should still have a few of those laying around