Believe me, I went through hell when I desoldered my Octagon's switches because they had short-legged SIP sockets that were very difficult to desolder even with ample solder and a desoldering iron. ChipQuik was the best way to remove those kinds of SIP sockets for me. Especially since the melt temp is lower than the housing's melting point.
Anyway, I went through having to fix SMD RGB LEDs that went out, replacing diodes, and repairing pads and traces. It was hell, but I was determined not to let my baby, my first korean custom, be a $400 brick. I kept at it and ended up fixing it perfectly.
I can say I'm 90% sure I can fix your PCB if you'd trust me to work on it. If not, that's alright! I know I'm not very well known around here and my reputation doesn't precede me, haha. The PCBs are dual-layered as far as I know and even if a through hole or pad is completely ripped, I have ways of restoring the connection. That's what it seems it might be in your case.
Here ya go:
http://i.imgur.com/1IrcwUZ.jpg
The 7 key is to the left of the screw hole
edit: also tried a few different switches in the slot, so it shouldn't be an issue with teh switch itself
plug it in, take a pair of tweezers, and try to jump the connection, like you would for anything else. The only thing I could guess is that the switch is bad.
tried to jump it with a spare wire, every key registers except the 7
whose my best bet in the USA to possibly fix it?
I do soldering services, but not repairs what do you think you might have done? is there something wrong with the diode?
no idea its probably something I did when desoldering the old switches. The only thing I can think of is that I ripped out the internal part of the pad by not removing all of the solder