geekhack
geekhack Community => Other Geeky Stuff => Topic started by: tp4tissue on Wed, 16 March 2016, 20:04:52
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WARNING Don't Do It.. ! (http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/hehe-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862507)
Not worth it... time consuming... very hard to cut well...
Just swallow the $15 for the hyperglides
But, if despite the warning, you're gonna do it anyway.. cuz, you're hard like that..
Then.... a roll of teflon from Ebay, shipped from China is $15, half meter x half meter
Theoretically this will be enough material for mouse feet for the rest of your life..
I'd recommend 1mm thick feet for most mice, to reduce lift-off distance.
You probably want to get at least 0.5mm because the typical 3m double sided tape is thinner than the stuff they use on regular mousefeet, which is a sort of padded material..
It's quite difficult cut the teflon into the shape of mouse feet.. In the factory, they're Punched using a metal puncher..
During your attempt, DO NOT, use a scissor.. after you trace it out, use a Sharp knife.
After you cut them out, and they're gonna be ****ty in appearance vs the original no matter how careful you are..
You need to Chamfer the sides to get them smooth. you can either use your nails or another semi-hard object..
IN THE VERY END, they're quite smooth, functionally indistinguishable, really as good as the name brand stuff, The only difference, they're ugly.. And I'd assume many people won't be able to swallow that pill..
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tp, why didn't you just get a new mouse at this point
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tp, why didn't you just get a new mouse at this point
Because... science!
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Well,. the WMO is a historic mouse...
It pretty much does everything a modern gaming mouse does,
it just has a few less buttons..
it's got 1000 hz and no prediction
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…and there's IMO with a couple of extra buttons as well.
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…and there's IMO with a couple of extra buttons as well.
it actually only has 1 extra button, because the other side button is almost completely useless as it's so easily clicked by mistake.. hahahahaha.
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Never had that problem, and neither did any other user, that I know, of that mouse over the last ~15 years, that we've had it at home.
tp4, aren't you a bit clumsy?
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Never had that problem, and neither did any other user, that I know, of that mouse over the last ~15 years, that we've had it at home.
tp4, aren't you a bit clumsy?
what problem?
the mouse feet ?
I believe the WMO stock mouse feet is not teflon, it's a smooth hard plastic.. Once it wears down a bit, it's not nearly as smooth as teflon, because the edges don't round out like teflon does.
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Accidentally clicking the other side button.
The mouse feet are too small IME (even on mice, that copy the same design, such as CM Storm Alcor).
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These are pretty good, cheap as **** as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111087506993?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=410181055117&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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These are pretty good, cheap as **** as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111087506993?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=410181055117&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
well.... i mean..
The mouse sells for like $7 on ebay.. So... hahahahha... that's pretty xpensive in relative terms.. (http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/hehe-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862507)
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Accidentally clicking the other side button.
The mouse feet are too small IME (even on mice, that copy the same design, such as CM Storm Alcor).
I find that it's not that the feet are too small, it's that they're too thin.
I am currently using the 1mm I cut out.. and it's very very smooth, much smoother than the stock.
However, I'd imagine if you're a heavy handed palm gripper, one who puts alot of downward force on the mouse, the feet may indeed be too small..
I use finger tip side grip.
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IN THE VERY END, they're quite smooth, functionally indistinguishable, really as good as the name brand stuff, The only difference, they're ugly.. And I'd assume many people won't be able to swallow that pill..
Considering they're on the underside, I think it's a pretty easy pill to swallow.
With all that extra material, have you considered experimenting with other shapes/larger skate surfaces?
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IN THE VERY END, they're quite smooth, functionally indistinguishable, really as good as the name brand stuff, The only difference, they're ugly.. And I'd assume many people won't be able to swallow that pill..
Considering they're on the underside, I think it's a pretty easy pill to swallow.
With all that extra material, have you considered experimenting with other shapes/larger skate surfaces?
Well... Here's how I see it..
The less surface is in contact with the pad, the less the friction.
Increasing the teflon surface is not to reduce friction, increased surface is done to reduce the mouse's Roll and Pitch...
Since I myself am a high-sensitivity , finger tip user.. I do not exert much downward pressure, and I don't move the mouse hard and far enough to generate much roll and pitch..
So, FOR ME, I feel it is ideal to reduce the contact surface.
But if you're a low sensitivity, or a palm gripper, or both, Then surely more surface would be beneficial..
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I've lost mouse feet before, and the mouse tends to stop working properly.
I've never been bothered enough to make new foots.
After reading this, I can't see myself making new foots, especially when I have a box pf spare mouses.
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IN THE VERY END, they're quite smooth, functionally indistinguishable, really as good as the name brand stuff, The only difference, they're ugly.. And I'd assume many people won't be able to swallow that pill..
Considering they're on the underside, I think it's a pretty easy pill to swallow.
With all that extra material, have you considered experimenting with other shapes/larger skate surfaces?
Well... Here's how I see it..
The less surface is in contact with the pad, the less the friction.
Increasing the teflon surface is not to reduce friction, increased surface is done to reduce the mouse's Roll and Pitch...
Since I myself am a high-sensitivity , finger tip user.. I do not exert much downward pressure, and I don't move the mouse hard and far enough to generate much roll and pitch..
So, FOR ME, I feel it is ideal to reduce the contact surface.
But if you're a low sensitivity, or a palm gripper, or both, Then surely more surface would be beneficial..
To my understanding of friction physics (F = μ mg), surface area is completely independent of total friction. This is due to a larger surface area distributing it's weight better. So for example something with twice the surface area will only exert half as much force per square inch, making it exactly the same amount of friction as something with half the surface area exerting twice the force per square inch. This relationship only breaks down once you get to surface areas small enough to dig into one another (a blade for example).
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IN THE VERY END, they're quite smooth, functionally indistinguishable, really as good as the name brand stuff, The only difference, they're ugly.. And I'd assume many people won't be able to swallow that pill..
Considering they're on the underside, I think it's a pretty easy pill to swallow.
With all that extra material, have you considered experimenting with other shapes/larger skate surfaces?
Well... Here's how I see it..
The less surface is in contact with the pad, the less the friction.
Increasing the teflon surface is not to reduce friction, increased surface is done to reduce the mouse's Roll and Pitch...
Since I myself am a high-sensitivity , finger tip user.. I do not exert much downward pressure, and I don't move the mouse hard and far enough to generate much roll and pitch..
So, FOR ME, I feel it is ideal to reduce the contact surface.
But if you're a low sensitivity, or a palm gripper, or both, Then surely more surface would be beneficial..
To my understanding of friction physics (F = μ mg), surface area is completely independent of total friction. This is due to a larger surface area distributing it's weight better. So for example something with twice the surface area will only exert half as much force per square inch, making it exactly the same amount of friction as something with half the surface area exerting twice the force per square inch. This relationship only breaks down once you get to surface areas small enough to dig into one another (a blade for example).
(http://img.emoticonplus.com/nKcQg.gif)
Naw, Dawg, You're thinking of the simplified model of friction.
Overall, if you want to argue the mechanical side.. yea.. it's good enough, and you're correct ..
However, the reality is a gamble..
Every instance of friction is unique and potentially incalculable...
There's a possibility that more surface means the same amount of friction, there is a possibility that more surface means less amount of friction, there is the possibility that more surface is an equal amount of friction..
We have no ways to perfectly determine the above 3 questions..
Therefore, if I look elsewhere... Fundamentally, I can compute and have a greater possibility of knowing the friction of small surface area..... whereas when that area increases the possibility is less.. (as i run out of computational power)
Now, you're going to say, well, the truth may be, that you have 0 possibility of computing either of the areas..
Sigh............ you see why this becomes a gamble..
So, I must make a decision based on inaccurate approximation no matter how deep I go..
I choose to end it at the first round of potentialities.
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my third attempt actually turned out pretty amazing! because i used a sharpening steel to polish the feet.. lol!
scissors -> sandpaper -> sharpening steel
without the polishing, i think it's not worth it at all. my first two attempts were done without the polishing, and they were terrible to use on a cloth surface.
all the imperfections will be felt while moving the mouse over a cloth surface. it feels gross.
the non-smooth shape also just increases friction. especially since i'm a low-mid sens gamer and often find myself applying more downward pressure during swipes..
but yeah, you're better off just buying hyperglides. especially since (i think) they also take custom orders if you give them the dimensions.
though, i now have the materials and somewhat of a technique down, so i'll just continue to make my own.
and i've tried other brands like tiger gaming, hotline gaming, corepad, etc.. i don't know what kind of material they use, but they all just suck compared to actual ptfe / teflon.
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Or you can buy a 1"x12" piece of UHMW with adhesive back already applied for about a dollar + shipping from mcmaster carr. Can be cut with regular scissors, longer wear and less friction then teflon.
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Or you can buy a 1"x12" piece of UHMW with adhesive back already applied for about a dollar + shipping from mcmaster carr. Can be cut with regular scissors, longer wear and less friction then teflon.
This would still require polishing though.
And the point here is, the labor involved makes the hyperglide a better buy.
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Or you can buy a 1"x12" piece of UHMW with adhesive back already applied for about a dollar + shipping from mcmaster carr. Can be cut with regular scissors, longer wear and less friction then teflon.
This would still require polishing though.
And the point here is, the labor involved makes the hyperglide a better buy.
I can assure you that the uhmw does not require polishing. Maybe knock the corners off the edges, but that can be done in seconds with a razor blade, exacto knife, or sharp steak knife. UHMW has 15 times the abrasion resistance of carbon steel, good luck polishing better then what the factory gives you.
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Or you can buy a 1"x12" piece of UHMW with adhesive back already applied for about a dollar + shipping from mcmaster carr. Can be cut with regular scissors, longer wear and less friction then teflon.
This would still require polishing though.
And the point here is, the labor involved makes the hyperglide a better buy.
I can assure you that the uhmw does not require polishing. Maybe knock the corners off the edges, but that can be done in seconds with a razor blade, exacto knife, or sharp steak knife. UHMW has 15 times the abrasion resistance of carbon steel, good luck polishing better then what the factory gives you.
mouse feet are usually round and have odd corners.. It's very hard to cut these shapes well with a knife/ scissor..
and the EDGE of the cut matters, because it digs into cloth pads.
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Or you can buy a 1"x12" piece of UHMW with adhesive back already applied for about a dollar + shipping from mcmaster carr. Can be cut with regular scissors, longer wear and less friction then teflon.
This would still require polishing though.
And the point here is, the labor involved makes the hyperglide a better buy.
I can assure you that the uhmw does not require polishing. Maybe knock the corners off the edges, but that can be done in seconds with a razor blade, exacto knife, or sharp steak knife. UHMW has 15 times the abrasion resistance of carbon steel, good luck polishing better then what the factory gives you.
mouse feet are usually round and have odd corners.. It's very hard to cut these shapes well with a knife/ scissor..
and the EDGE of the cut matters, because it digs into cloth pads.
You can get adhesive backed UHMW in 1/32" thick, this will cut with any walmart grade metal blade scissors. Even curves. Might take a littlw practice, but you can order this 1" wide cut to length per foot for $.85 per foot. Much cheaper than what you listed at ebay, and a longer lasting material with lower friction than Teflon,