I wanted to make a short walkthrough on my build of this keyboard.
I promised a few people I would write it up.
I hope it might help a few people just starting out on making a custom board.
For this build I wanted to make my own sixty% using light tactile switches, while trying out a HHKB-
similar layout. At the same time, I was terrible at touch typing, so this would be a chance for me to force learn using pbt blank caps.
I decided to buy Gateron browns from
Originative for a pretty great price.
These switches felt a bit strange from the blues I had before, but I quickly got used to them. The only gripe I have with gaterons is the sip sockets are tighter than they are in Cherry switches and take more time to align.
For the plate I used an aluminum universal one from Leandren. He told me it was one of a kind
I sourced the PCB, Case, and Stabilizers from China
I made sure to clip the stabilizers because all the cool kids do it.
I missed that part in the images, but you can find the info on the web.
I started to place some of the switches in the PCB through the plate so that everything was aligned before I began soldering.
And I filled in all the spots.
I wanted to try out Cherry clears at the same time since I enjoy tactile switches, so
a friend on Geekhack gave me enough to use for those special keys. (shift, delete, return, space, esc.) *I left out the backspace, so I need to de and resolder in a clear.
Finished all the soldering.
Note that I did all the LED soldering joints also for the sip sockets.
In case you didn't know, Sip sockets are a little probe that allows you to change out the LEDs whenever you want, without having to solder them in and out.
I cleaned up all that amber discoloration with a toothbrush and 99% Alcohol
Lights on Lights on
Lights on Lights off
*Cringe related note*
I have since gotten a correct profile 1.75 for that right shift, made my own correct profile right function key, flipped those super keys rightside up, and gotten rid of that windowed capslock.
Cool effect from a yellow LED through a BadNews Glacier blue blank
Last sexy shot. #subjective
I used a 15 dollar soldering iron from Microcenter for this build along with a sponge for cleaning.
Leaded solder from Amazon.
This is only half the battle.
Now you get to program it.
I initially did this with TMK using Kairyu's toolkit.
First off you need to build out your layouts using the keyboard layout editor
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/
When you are done, you need to copy the raw data, one layer at a time into the super easy TMK Keymap generator here
http://www.enjoyclick.org/tkg/You want to make sure you select the right board, that would be the GH60 RevCHN 2nd party.
You can increase your layer count as you need.
Youve got your layers pasted in.
Set our Fn0 to trigger only momentarily, and have fn#s set up to trigger backlighting options
Set up the default backlighting behaviors.
When you have all the data entered and settings selected, just click to download your .eep file.
You need to get the toolkit to setup and program your board now. you can find it at
https://github.com/kairyu/tkg-toolkitDownload that zip folder and extract it all.
Assuming you are using windows, update the drivers for the board controller by using the zadig.exe file and clicking the buttons.
Once that is done your ready to program.
In the windows folder, run the setup file. select the options "2", "N", "1" and press any key.
Finally you drag the Keymap.eep file from earlier and drop it ONTO the reflash.bat file.
That will run it and say it is waiting for bootloader.
When it says this, press the button on the back.
It should program the board while showing you the process on the screen.
Press any key and you are done! You might need to use a second keyboard to press a key at the end of the reflash, because the 60 satan might be unresponsive at first.
Thanks for reading, and let me know if I missed something!
