Something I've been wondering is what replacement tips should I get for the Hakko FX-888?
Not a fan of soldering wick, I like suckers more.
The best:
http://www.amazon.com/Edsyn-Deluxe-Soldapullt-DS017LS-Static-Safe/dp/B0019V5HRA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1366945331&sr=8-17&keywords=solder+sucker
Cheap solder wick is like cheap hookers, they look nice until they don't suck. Nice wick is VERY good at sufficient temperatures. I prefer it to a sucker, but you can't just wash a roll of wick out like you can a solder sucker
Not a fan of soldering wick, I like suckers more.
The best:
http://www.amazon.com/Edsyn-Deluxe-Soldapullt-DS017LS-Static-Safe/dp/B0019V5HRA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1366945331&sr=8-17&keywords=solder+sucker
Yeah... well, I made it up the other day, though I'm sure someone has said it before me. Still funny. :))Cheap solder wick is like cheap hookers, they look nice until they don't suck. Nice wick is VERY good at sufficient temperatures. I prefer it to a sucker, but you can't just wash a roll of wick out like you can a solder sucker
Man, you love that joke :p
Gupgup
I don't know if I'd consider the Aoyue 'baller'.. Nice list otherwise though :)
cheap hookers, they look nice until they don't suck.Something tells me you're not too aware of how hookers work...
I don't know if I'd consider the Aoyue 'baller'.. Nice list otherwise though :)
It was an easy descriptor of price. Is it worthwhile?
I don't know if I'd consider the Aoyue 'baller'.. Nice list otherwise though :)
It was an easy descriptor of price. Is it worthwhile?
I've used that model specifically not too long ago. I feel that the weller wes51 performs much better. The the 968 is actually a budget/entry level setup for rework stations.
I would pick eutectic solder instead. I might include flux in that list as well, and I would move most of what you have put under required to recommended.
Aoyue in general is well priced for what it offers, but it's not really a high end brand, especially that model you linked. I have a Aoyue rework station, but a higher end one. A hakko or weller with similar features would be in the thousand $ range.
Also, no one took note of eutectic solder. Why do you keep using 60/40? Perhaps there is a reason I have missed there?
If you want to buy an Edsyn Soldapullt for desoldering, please buy it direct from Edsyn. Their customer service phone number is 818-989-2324. Their customer service reps are very friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful. They will also usually quote you a lower price than what is listed on their web site (www.edsyn.com). The DS017 is the one I bought from them.the silverstat deluxe st least isnt a knock off someone contacted edsyn and they said they brand if for them.
I have a hunch that some of the "Soldapullt" tools sold by Techni Tool through Amazon are knockoffs. Also, I know Amazon is convenient, but they are evil. Don't buy from Amazon, buy direct!
63/37=60/40 solder.Also, no one took note of eutectic solder. Why do you keep using 60/40? Perhaps there is a reason I have missed there?
I use 63/37 Kester "44" now. I used to use 60/40, but now I know better. :)
4% silver solder>62/36/2>63/37>60/4063/37=60/40 solder.Also, no one took note of eutectic solder. Why do you keep using 60/40? Perhaps there is a reason I have missed there?
I use 63/37 Kester "44" now. I used to use 60/40, but now I know better. :)
Also, no one took note of eutectic solder. Why do you keep using 60/40? Perhaps there is a reason I have missed there?
this is right up my alley. Looking to do some small electronics work this summer. better believe i've got this thread on notify
Related note, how bad for you IS solder smoke? I'm sort of planning on getting set up in an attic becuase it's otherwise unused (sort of like alone time) but there are no windows, and running any sort of venting would require crawling through the rafters which really isn't my cup of tea. Is it possible to use lead free solder and not worry about the fumes, or is there some sort of air purifier that I could invest in that would clean the crap out of the air as I work? Maybe a mask?
http://www.thebgawarehouse.com/Aoyue-486-ESD-safe-Benchtop-Solder-Smoke-Absorber?ref=lexity&_vs=google&_vm=productsearch&adtype=pla&gclid=CL2Zl6uW6bYCFQVV4AodKjYAPg I'll put this here tentatively for discussions for now.
I'm surprised no one mentioned flux yet. There are several types: Rosin, water soluble, an no-clean. Just get the no-clean stuff because it's volatile and the excess just evaporate after a certain time. The other fluxes should be cleaned because they're corrosive to the contact points. And if you're going to clean flux, use isopropyl alcohol (99% if you can find it, available on amazon). I use SRA no-clean flux pen.
tjcaustin, maybe list SRA in the OP. It's a go-to place for all soldering products, and they have a lot of in-house stuff.
http://sra-solder.com/
http://sra-solder.com/product.php?xProd=7040 (http://sra-solder.com/product.php?xProd=7040)
This one? Thanks for the quick reply bud.
I seldom use it, not recommended, but it works.
Related note, how bad for you IS solder smoke? I'm sort of planning on getting set up in an attic becuase it's otherwise unused (sort of like alone time) but there are no windows, and running any sort of venting would require crawling through the rafters which really isn't my cup of tea. Is it possible to use lead free solder and not worry about the fumes, or is there some sort of air purifier that I could invest in that would clean the crap out of the air as I work? Maybe a mask?
I use plumbers flux when I really need flux. Otherwise I just don't use flux.
Hm, to build a manly table out of wood, sweat and blood or buy a plastic folding table like I use for my bedroom desk...Make one yourself. I built one in like 2-3 hours out of wood and used an MDF sheet as a top. Sturdiest desk I have ever owned and only cost about £30. + It's huge
This is a question that you all should answer here.
Hm, to build a manly table out of wood, sweat and blood or buy a plastic folding table like I use for my bedroom desk...Make one yourself. I built one in like 2-3 hours out of wood and used an MDF sheet as a top. Sturdiest desk I have ever owned and only cost about £30. + It's huge
This is a question that you all should answer here.
Hm, to build a manly table out of wood, sweat and blood or buy a plastic folding table like I use for my bedroom desk...Make one yourself. I built one in like 2-3 hours out of wood and used an MDF sheet as a top. Sturdiest desk I have ever owned and only cost about £30. + It's huge
This is a question that you all should answer here.
That's exactly what I'm planning (I have a "scrap" piece of 3cm MDF that's a little over 1 sq meter).
Sweet. How're you planning to do the frame?Hm, to build a manly table out of wood, sweat and blood or buy a plastic folding table like I use for my bedroom desk...Make one yourself. I built one in like 2-3 hours out of wood and used an MDF sheet as a top. Sturdiest desk I have ever owned and only cost about £30. + It's huge
This is a question that you all should answer here.
That's exactly what I'm planning (I have a "scrap" piece of 3cm MDF that's a little over 1 sq meter).
Sweet. How're you planning to do the frame?Hm, to build a manly table out of wood, sweat and blood or buy a plastic folding table like I use for my bedroom desk...Make one yourself. I built one in like 2-3 hours out of wood and used an MDF sheet as a top. Sturdiest desk I have ever owned and only cost about £30. + It's huge
This is a question that you all should answer here.
That's exactly what I'm planning (I have a "scrap" piece of 3cm MDF that's a little over 1 sq meter).
Leaded solder used to give me ridiculous headaches if I didn't use the vents in the room after like 15 minutes. I would HIGHLY recommend you don't solder in an enclosed space until you figure out how to ventilate the area. I think Kawa posted how to make some cheap fume sucker/blow/fan things made out of cheapo Walmart fans and ducting. Let me go see if I can find it...or maybe Smallfry will see this post and link it.
If you want to buy an Edsyn Soldapullt for desoldering, please buy it direct from Edsyn. Their customer service phone number is 818-989-2324. Their customer service reps are very friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful. They will also usually quote you a lower price than what is listed on their web site (www.edsyn.com). The DS017 is the one I bought from them.
I have a hunch that some of the "Soldapullt" tools sold by Techni Tool through Amazon are knockoffs. Also, I know Amazon is convenient, but they are evil. Don't buy from Amazon, buy direct!
Might I suggest throwing a multimeter on the OP as well? for a lot of DIY projects if you're dealing with soldering, you might have to know power flow too.
Because flames make everything cooler...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-FX888-Digital-Soldering-Station-W-Flame-Decals-RC-Slot-Racers-/171029853721
Because flames make everythingcoolerfaster...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-FX888-Digital-Soldering-Station-W-Flame-Decals-RC-Slot-Racers-/171029853721Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-FX888-Digital-Soldering-Station-W-Flame-Decals-RC-Slot-Racers-/00/s/ODgxWDE2MDA=/z/3S8AAOxyJs5RZFSp/$T2eC16NHJHYE9nzpcw03BRZFSozog!~~60_57.JPG)
I do not see any cutters mentioned yet and thought this might help others
Xcelite 170M General Purpose Shearcutter, Diagonal, Flush Jaw, 5" Length, 3/4" Jaw length, Red Grip
http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-170M-General-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B0002BBZIS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367433764&sr=8-1&keywords=xcelite+170m
I couldn't find the branded decals yet for the Hakko FX-888, but I did find some for the Hakko 936 (or it's clone, the Yihua 936).
Purchase 936 decals (only blue available) here: http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=70,289&PID=4564&Page=1 $17.37 + tax
HobbyKing has the Yihua 936: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_USA_Warehouse_.html $16.51 + $13.11 shippingMoreShow Image(http://www.hakkousa.com/AHPDirect/images/936-skins2.jpg)
They have the decals for the solder holder - http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?PID=5027&Page=1
NASA soldering requirements - good for everyone: http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/601%20General%20Requirements.html
The test socket that is included can be used when measuring resistors and capacitors, both SMD and leaded components. It can also be used for transistor test, but not on this DMM model. Including this type of test socket is much safer than making extra holes in the meter for test connections.
Note: This socket uses the mAuA terminal, instead of the COM terminal, i.e. it requires that the meter supports this.
could someone suggest a flux pen? I know there are alot of different types of flux and wanted to make sure I didn't get the wrong kind.
If anyone is interested in a quality soldering station, but you can't really afford more than $50 for an iron, some used Hakko 936 soldering bases with iron holders just popped up on eBay for $25 plus shipping each. There are 6 left as of now, since I bought 2 of them. This is the discontinued predecessor to the Hakko FX-888, which is also now discontinued, replaced by the Hakko FX-888D. You will need to purchase a Hakko 907 soldering iron to go with it, which you can get for $9 shipped.
You could get the Weller WLC100 soldering station brand new for about the same price, but the WLC100 doesn't have an actual temp control, it only varies the wattage to the iron.
Hakko 936 base (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281102057599) $25 + shipping
Hakko 907 iron (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251077570894) $8.99 + FS
BTW, I setup my soldering station over the weekend.(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/8695426887_5e601d361c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mashby/8695426887/)
Ready To Solder (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mashby/8695426887/) by Michael Ashby (http://www.flickr.com/people/mashby/), on Flickr
could someone suggest a flux pen? I know there are alot of different types of flux and wanted to make sure I didn't get the wrong kind.
BTW, I setup my soldering station over the weekend.(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/8695426887_5e601d361c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mashby/8695426887/)
Ready To Solder (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mashby/8695426887/) by Michael Ashby (http://www.flickr.com/people/mashby/), on Flickr
BTW, I setup my soldering station over the weekend.(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/8695426887_5e601d361c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mashby/8695426887/)
Ready To Solder (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mashby/8695426887/) by Michael Ashby (http://www.flickr.com/people/mashby/), on Flickr
I know that's not my youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ_2GxeR4Es#t=9s) on your notebook's screen...
I just noticed that diskman in the background. Way to rep it old school.
LOL! I was wondering if anyone was going to catch that. I totally forgot that thing was still around. The funniest part was that there was a disc in it -- the soundtrack from Hackers (http://www.amazon.com/Hackers/dp/B000005OMF). ROTFLMAO!
KATE
What the hell are you doing?
DADE
It's cool, I'm just looking.
KATE
It's too much machine for you.
DADE
Yeah?
Dade starts working furiously on it.
KATE
I hope you don't screw like you type.
Ha! I was just about to post this:QuoteKATE
What the hell are you doing?
DADE
It's cool, I'm just looking.
KATE
It's too much machine for you.
DADE
Yeah?
Dade starts working furiously on it.
KATE
I hope you don't screw like you type.
LOL! I was wondering if anyone was going to catch that. I totally forgot that thing was still around. The funniest part was that there was a disc in it -- the soundtrack from Hackers (http://www.amazon.com/Hackers/dp/B000005OMF). ROTFLMAO!At least it's not a cassette player or records. Now those are ancient
so looking at some Kester no clean flux solder whats better 245, 275, or 285
Good thread.
No one has mentioned all of the little hand tools that make a complicated soldering job so much easier. Mine are at work, so I'll add them tomorrow.
Also, heat guns are worth getting quality to make heat shrink shrink instead of melt or burn. And continuity testers, which used to be built into every DMM, but now are a hard to find extra item. But again, they make some jobs (e.g. testing a hard-wired keyboard matrix) so much easier.
Finally, somewhere on the bench should be a variable power supply. Most circuits eventually need electricity, and having a source for 1.5, 3.3, 5, 7, 12v, etc. is totally handy.
A window is good, too. Mmmm, lead smoke...
- Ron I samwisekoi
standard 63/37 have rosin as flux, which leaves a residue after you solder. No-clean has a different type of flux. Just get the normal rosin-core one and leave the flux on there. It doesn't really damage keyboards.
So I'm considering getting a Honeywell HPA-050 for an alternative take on filtering solder fumes. There are papers (http://annhyg.oxfordjournals.org/content/42/8/511.abstract?maxtoshow=&HITS=10&hits=10&RESULTFORMAT=1&andorexacttitle=and&andorexacttitleabs=and&fulltext=lead+oxide+fumes&andorexactfulltext=and&searchid=1&FIRSTINDEX=0&sortspec=relevance&fdate=1/1/1844&tdate=6/30/2007&resourcetype=HWCIT) which suggest that filtration of flux smoke and such are not sufficient with just a regular carbon filter, and that a combination of activated carbon and 99.97+ HEPA is needed.
Professional units do exactly that, but cost $ludicrous. I'm thinking that placing such a desktop filter a few inches away from the soldering area will work just as well, though. If anyone else knows of an approach that combines the two types of filtering in a compact format (DIY or othewise) on the cheap, speak up!
Fan. Window. Keep children away. Done.
My makeshift soldering station :p
My makeshift soldering station :p
until a swich pops off in a weird angle and you will never find it again :)
FX-888 is discontinued. FX-888D is the replacement. Although, you might still be able to find some new old stock 888's somewhere.
FX-888 is discontinued. FX-888D is the replacement. Although, you might still be able to find some new old stock 888's somewhere.
That's what i'm saying, in the OP he states the link is for the 888D, but it links to an ebay listing for the 888.
Is the Weller WES51 still in production? I thought it had also been replaced by a digital version, the WESD51.
Most places where your going to get a good price only sell the pound as they mostly do sell to individuals. If you want I can sell you some off my roll.
SHAMELESS SELF-PLUG:
High quality soldering gear available here at a bargain price ;) (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43174.0)
Just ordered a Hakko FX-888D. Seems like a solid machine, despite looking a bit like a toy.
SHAMELESS SELF-PLUG:
High quality soldering gear available here at a bargain price ;) (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43174.0)
^
Just ordered a Hakko FX-888D. Seems like a solid machine, despite looking a bit like a toy.
AMG!SHAMELESS SELF-PLUG:
High quality soldering gear available here at a bargain price ;) (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43174.0)
^
For someone who has never ever even attempted soldering and just wants to get started what do you all recommend as far as initial equipment?
So I ordered a "Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station" from amazon and it came in a box that was taped shut.Appears to be used. I'd wait for another conformation though.
When I took of the tip, it looked like there was some evidence of usage. Can anyone confirm if this is normal for a brand new iron?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
For someone who has never ever even attempted soldering and just wants to get started what do you all recommend as far as initial equipment?
For someone who has never ever even attempted soldering and just wants to get started what do you all recommend as far as initial equipment?
That's, like, the entire point of this thread dude. OP!!
For someone who has never ever even attempted soldering and just wants to get started what do you all recommend as far as initial equipment?
Me, personally, I'd say a simple 25 watt Weller with a pencil tip, some good rosin-core solder, a sponge and an old VCR. Maybe a de-soldering bulb too. Then get some copper wire and maybe some resistors and start soldering stuff together and melting it apart. Your goal is to make the solder flow like silver without touching it directly with the iron.
Get a little bit of solder on the iron, then touch it to the wire. Then touch the solder to the wire. At first your solder joints wil be blobby, ugly, and grey. That is a cold solder joint and you have to melt it away and try again.
This will go on for a while until suddenly you will see the solder flow like a living thing into the spot where you want it. That is your first good solder joint, and it is really satisfying. Keep practicing until they always look like that.
Then toss that starter gear into a tool chest and go buy some nice gear. But go learn with a good-enough little 25 watt Weller.
- Ron I samwisekoi
For someone who has never ever even attempted soldering and just wants to get started what do you all recommend as far as initial equipment?
Me, personally, I'd say a simple 25 watt Weller with a pencil tip, some good rosin-core solder, a sponge and an old VCR. Maybe a de-soldering bulb too. Then get some copper wire and maybe some resistors and start soldering stuff together and melting it apart. Your goal is to make the solder flow like silver without touching it directly with the iron.
Get a little bit of solder on the iron, then touch it to the wire. Then touch the solder to the wire. At first your solder joints wil be blobby, ugly, and grey. That is a cold solder joint and you have to melt it away and try again.
This will go on for a while until suddenly you will see the solder flow like a living thing into the spot where you want it. That is your first good solder joint, and it is really satisfying. Keep practicing until they always look like that.
Then toss that starter gear into a tool chest and go buy some nice gear. But go learn with a good-enough little 25 watt Weller.
- Ron I samwisekoi
For someone who has never ever even attempted soldering and just wants to get started what do you all recommend as far as initial equipment?
Me, personally, I'd say a simple 25 watt Weller with a pencil tip, some good rosin-core solder, a sponge and an old VCR. Maybe a de-soldering bulb too. Then get some copper wire and maybe some resistors and start soldering stuff together and melting it apart. Your goal is to make the solder flow like silver without touching it directly with the iron.
Get a little bit of solder on the iron, then touch it to the wire. Then touch the solder to the wire. At first your solder joints wil be blobby, ugly, and grey. That is a cold solder joint and you have to melt it away and try again.
This will go on for a while until suddenly you will see the solder flow like a living thing into the spot where you want it. That is your first good solder joint, and it is really satisfying. Keep practicing until they always look like that.
Then toss that starter gear into a tool chest and go buy some nice gear. But go learn with a good-enough little 25 watt Weller.
- Ron I samwisekoi
Forget the dusty old VCR. Build a GH60!
I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,
but is the WLC100 a good start?
I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,
but is the WLC100 a good start?
Yes, but you could spend like $30 bucks more and have a hakko instead
I got 2 from amazon that had beat up boxes and burn marks...sent them both back
Trying the Hakko 888D (on order)
I just started soldering and I have the WLC 100. I've had an easy time soldering with it. You may want to get an Edsyn Desoldering Pump because it made my desoldering effortless.
Sounds like i should wait until summer, so i will have a job and can pay for the hakko. Thanks for the advice
Are weller and hakko tips different?
I need to get myself some 99% isopropyl. I have 75% from the grocery, but I can only use it very carefully with qtips
At ~$56 best bang for your buck is the UNI-T UT61E DMM. Just make sure you clean the leads with alcohol when you receive it.
Some reviews show it overshoots but others don't, it could be fixed on newer revisions?
It is one of the best DC and AC DMM that also has TRUE RMS.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT61E-AC-DC-Modern-Digital-Multimeter-gl-/251267628025?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80b7bbf9
It has nice feature that tests smd components and resistors with ease .Show Image(http://lygte-info.dk/pic/UNI-T/UT61E/DSC_1413.jpg)Show Image(http://lygte-info.dk/pic/UNI-T/UT61E/DSC_1428.jpg)QuoteThe test socket that is included can be used when measuring resistors and capacitors, both SMD and leaded components. It can also be used for transistor test, but not on this DMM model. Including this type of test socket is much safer than making extra holes in the meter for test connections.
Note: This socket uses the mAuA terminal, instead of the COM terminal, i.e. it requires that the meter supports this.
Some reviews.More
That would hold water if not for every review of the meter I have posted, while admitting it's a rebranded MASTECH, saying that it's a fine multimeter with good accuracy, range and durability.
Oh and "it competes well with 100+ DMMs", too.
That would hold water if not for every review of the meter I have posted, while admitting it's a rebranded MASTECH, saying that it's a fine multimeter with good accuracy, range and durability.
Oh and "it competes well with 100+ DMMs", too.
Hahahaha, that brought tears to my eyes, I needed that laugh. Thanks.
Listen, you can be ****ty somewhere else, I don't really care. But the fact remains that every time you brought up that other DMM, I looked into and compared the two and found nothing tangible for the usage that would justify the price difference.
Call it whatever you want, just call it that somewhere else and stop ****ting in my thread.
I think it was more the fact that you laughed at what tjcaustin said, Thechemist. It shows very little respect for what tjcaustin is doing in this thread, and it contributes nothing to the conversation other than to show that you are another person to claim that his own research is the only research.
The DMM that has been suggested is fine. The one you suggested is also fine.
I suggest that we go back to the serious business of the keyboards and solder now.
At ~$56 best bang for your buck is the UNI-T UT61E DMM. Just make sure you clean the leads with alcohol when you receive it.
Some reviews show it overshoots but others don't, it could be fixed on newer revisions?
It is one of the best DC and AC DMM that also has TRUE RMS.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT61E-AC-DC-Modern-Digital-Multimeter-gl-/251267628025?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80b7bbf9
It has nice feature that tests smd components and resistors with ease .Show Image(http://lygte-info.dk/pic/UNI-T/UT61E/DSC_1413.jpg)Show Image(http://lygte-info.dk/pic/UNI-T/UT61E/DSC_1428.jpg)QuoteThe test socket that is included can be used when measuring resistors and capacitors, both SMD and leaded components. It can also be used for transistor test, but not on this DMM model. Including this type of test socket is much safer than making extra holes in the meter for test connections.
Note: This socket uses the mAuA terminal, instead of the COM terminal, i.e. it requires that the meter supports this.
Some reviews.More
That Sinometer is junk a cheap rebrand ( can't calibrate and not very accurate ), I was doing research on which is the best DMM to buy and the one i posted earlier is the best bang for your buck and not that much more than that junky meter.
I need to get myself some 99% isopropyl. I have 75% from the grocery, but I can only use it very carefully with qtips
Anything 91% and above is great since it has <10% of water ( and dries cleaner ) and the 91% is more accessible than the 99%. You can visit your local drugs store and see if you can score some 99% and if you live in the states you can get one here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-NEW-99-Isopropyl-Rubbing-Alcohol-16-oz-PINT-EXP-09-2015-/140929545956?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d00e36e4) and save some gas money.
Edit:
I also suggest taking off that rebranded DMM from OP, i wouldn't suggest that meter since it isn't accurate and the quality isn't much better than the $20 DMMs out there. Sure it has some features but it isn't a good entry point DMM.
This meter would be considered a much better suggestion and competes with $100+ DMMs out there.At ~$56 best bang for your buck is the UNI-T UT61E DMM. Just make sure you clean the leads with alcohol when you receive it.
Some reviews show it overshoots but others don't, it could be fixed on newer revisions?
It is one of the best DC and AC DMM that also has TRUE RMS.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT61E-AC-DC-Modern-Digital-Multimeter-gl-/251267628025?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80b7bbf9
It has nice feature that tests smd components and resistors with ease .Show Image(http://lygte-info.dk/pic/UNI-T/UT61E/DSC_1413.jpg)Show Image(http://lygte-info.dk/pic/UNI-T/UT61E/DSC_1428.jpg)QuoteThe test socket that is included can be used when measuring resistors and capacitors, both SMD and leaded components. It can also be used for transistor test, but not on this DMM model. Including this type of test socket is much safer than making extra holes in the meter for test connections.
Note: This socket uses the mAuA terminal, instead of the COM terminal, i.e. it requires that the meter supports this.
Some reviews.More
I guess this is communist Russia time or better yet China :)) where information is a no-no.
I'll just leave this here for others to read since I assume, I still have that right and maybe next time post some proper reviews. That meter might be good at a $20 price point but not when it is in the price range of the meter i suggested and trust me i have done my research and can back it up.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/good-budgetish-multimeter/
Well, come on then, you had the balls to get that far. Call me stupid, *******.
I would think the one that is clearly acting like he doesn't know what the phrase "reading comprehension" means shouldn't be talking down about someone else's intelligence.
Especially since it's based off of some rather bold assumptions that I didn't research your suggestion three (3) separate times and made the same judgement call that the additional umph was worth muddling the choices. I feel like I just said this, too...
So again, go be ****ty elsewhere.
I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,
but is the WLC100 a good start?
Yes, but you could spend like $30 bucks more and have a hakko instead
which hakko should i be looking for?
which hakko should i be looking for?
888D - mine should come today.
which hakko should i be looking for?
888D - mine should come today.
which hakko should i be looking for?
888D - mine should come today.
the WLC100 is like ~$30
the 888D is like ~$90
am i looking at the wrong 888D?
I want to start to solder...laugh at me and all,
but is the WLC100 a good start?
Yes, but you could spend like $30 bucks more and have a hakko instead
which hakko should i be looking for?
So is there some debate on the digital versus analog and proper temperature control? I was just reading some reviews on both and it seemed like some prefer one over the other but I wasn't sure if that was a personal preference or an actual real world use issue.
So is there some debate on the digital versus analog and proper temperature control? I was just reading some reviews on both and it seemed like some prefer one over the other but I wasn't sure if that was a personal preference or an actual real world use issue.
That's what i'm concerned about. It seems like the actual adjustment is the issue, as the 888D only has 2 buttons, making precision temperatures hard to pinpoint. It also (ironically) apparently doesn't show you the actual temperature (like an oven) but rather just the target temp, which would be a huge plus on a digital iron.
At the moment i'm thinking of going with the manual weller, it looks like less of a toy, and it's 'MURICAN
What technique do you guys use for freeing bent pins that are soldered on in between the pin and the PCB?
Just hold the tip on the leg until the solder underneath melts?
after desoldering a WYSE terminal board today, I really want to know why they bent the pins on some of the switch legs. It's annoying.
Ahh, so that's what you meant in the soldering thread. :) I couldn't quite get what you were asking. Yeah, just remove the solder from the joint. Then, to remove the switch from the PCB/plate, put the tip of a phillips head screwdriver on the little nub where the switch pokes out of the PCB, and push...hard! It will pop right out of there.
I use my teeth.
looking to make an exhaust pipe for my solder work, thinking one of those wire and paper ducts and a 120 mm fan would work fine, eh? Just set it up to pull air and stick it out the window?
You guys figure any hardware store should have that paper ducts? Is it a good idea to use that or is there something else I should consider?
looking to make an exhaust pipe for my solder work, thinking one of those wire and paper ducts and a 120 mm fan would work fine, eh? Just set it up to pull air and stick it out the window?
You guys figure any hardware store should have that paper ducts? Is it a good idea to use that or is there something else I should consider?
I ordered a Hakko FX-888 (analog) from vendor linked by OP, and received a digital instead. ;D
*This* one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIGITAL-THERMOMETER-SOLDERING-IRON-TESTER-Hakko-FG-100-new-/330917638576?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0c3a71b0
a single type K thermometer lead costs more than that ebay product. sorry, not legit :(
Does anyone have any experience with the Weller WLC100? I am considering buying it but I'm worried about the fact it does not have a temperature control but rather 1-5 levels instead. Any thoughts?
Does anyone have any experience with the Weller WLC100? I am considering buying it but I'm worried about the fact it does not have a temperature control but rather 1-5 levels instead. Any thoughts?
I personally wouldn't recommend it, but it is better than an unregulated cheapo iron.
If you're looking for something cheap, get this: Yihua 936 (https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=19240) from HobbyKing.
I bought one for testing purposes, but there is a breakdown of it here:
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I prefer the analogue myself but I just picked one up but it seems I have to do an unexpected repair to it, so I have a question for you all how do they expect you to repair your soldering iron when the fix requires you to desolder and solder something?
Another soldering iron.
I prefer the analogue myself but I just picked one up but it seems I have to do an unexpected repair to it, so I have a question for you all how do they expect you to repair your soldering iron when the fix requires you to desolder and solder something?
You just picked one up, but it already needs a repair? I would RMA it under warranty. Or you could use another soldering iron, like metalliqaz said. :)
dang man, I already placed my full order from PE (I did end up caving and buying the roll of solder) now i'm finding that I could have saved like 25 bucks ordering from a couple of different stores. I guess it pays to price check.
Does anyone have any experience with the Weller WLC100? I am considering buying it but I'm worried about the fact it does not have a temperature control but rather 1-5 levels instead. Any thoughts?had one for years, did not like. bad temp recovery, takes forever to heat up, etc. etc.
Does anyone have any experience with the Weller WLC100? I am considering buying it but I'm worried about the fact it does not have a temperature control but rather 1-5 levels instead. Any thoughts?had one for years, did not like. bad temp recovery, takes forever to heat up, etc. etc.
Does anyone have any experience with the Weller WLC100? I am considering buying it but I'm worried about the fact it does not have a temperature control but rather 1-5 levels instead. Any thoughts?had one for years, did not like. bad temp recovery, takes forever to heat up, etc. etc.
It heats up within a minute if you pre-heat on level 5, then drop it down to level 3 to use for soldering. I just finished soldering my QFR today and only had to heat it up at the start of the process.
Just fired up my 888D for the first time...works like a dream.
Dropped 3 diodes on my phantom. Got a couple left to go :)
Does anyone have any experience with the Weller WLC100? I am considering buying it but I'm worried about the fact it does not have a temperature control but rather 1-5 levels instead. Any thoughts?had one for years, did not like. bad temp recovery, takes forever to heat up, etc. etc.
It heats up within a minute if you pre-heat on level 5, then drop it down to level 3 to use for soldering. I just finished soldering my QFR today and only had to heat it up at the start of the process.
Just fired up my 888D for the first time...works like a dream.
Dropped 3 diodes on my phantom. Got a couple left to go :)
Depending on the size of diodes, I recommend this tip (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ORB8GK/ref=oh_details_o04_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I was able to easily do 0603 size components with it. Maybe it's a little smaller than ideal for phantom diodes though... I just find the included standard tip huge for most keyboard work. I originally got this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00762AGTA/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the super small stuff, but it was TOO small... it seemed to loose heat too fast at the end, even at full temp.
That said, there are so many hakko tips... if anyone has recommendations for keyboard work, I'd love to know!
Well, that second tip I linked was 0.2mm... so 0.8mm certainly isn't the smallest. But really, it's too small to do anything with that I've come across. And I doubt many people are doing stuff smaller than 0603 by hand anyway. (I'm talking about SMT...)
also, hakko's brass ball tip cleaners are freaking awesome. sponges suck
Also people the wire sponge is to clean your tip not to put it in the back of your stand let your iron sit in to well its in the stand >.>
basically the 888 i just bought used has the wire sponge where you tip of the iron ends up when you place the iron in the stand and the hear completely wrecked the wire sponge and who knows what it did to that tip I just changed it when I got it because it looked very worn to me and i use a different size anyway.
... yes you're not supposed to have the metal sponge in the rear compartment. :-X
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43796.msg900769#msg900769
Nifty smd soldering video from GON.
Why isn't this a sticky?
HAH! ebay. honestly, i think you got yourself a deal right there. iron is flawless and power source looks well loved -- probably well taken care of. just scrub the crap out of that holder and pick up a http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Solder-Cleaning-Sponge/dp/B000B6344M and you're good to go.
wiha makes the best small electronics hand tools in the world imo. snap on makes the best large mechanicals hand tools and compressor tools.
Why isn't this a sticky?
Why isn't this a sticky?
Because it's a niche skill within a niche hobby. Stickies tend to be more general.
Why isn't this a sticky?
Because it's a niche skill within a niche hobby. Stickies tend to be more general.
Because lubing switches is totes mainstream, right?
Whereas soldering, no one does that besides hardline keyboard modders
Because lubing switches is totes mainstream, right?
Whereas soldering, no one does that besides hardline keyboard modders
Because lubing switches is totes mainstream, right?
Whereas soldering, no one does that besides hardline keyboard modders
Yea you're right, not sure why that lubing thread is a sticky. It actually takes desoldering and soldering skill first before you can lube. Maybe PM a mod to take that lube thread off and replace with this thread.
Because lubing switches is totes mainstream, right?
Whereas soldering, no one does that besides hardline keyboard modders
Yea you're right, not sure why that lubing thread is a sticky. It actually takes desoldering and soldering skill first before you can lube. Maybe PM a mod to take that lube thread off and replace with this thread.
Sticky them both? i mean you can lube without opening up the switches but its no where near as effective.
Because lubing switches is totes mainstream, right?
Whereas soldering, no one does that besides hardline keyboard modders
Yea you're right, not sure why that lubing thread is a sticky. It actually takes desoldering and soldering skill first before you can lube. Maybe PM a mod to take that lube thread off and replace with this thread.
Sticky them both? i mean you can lube without opening up the switches but its no where near as effective.
I mean you can remove a plate without desoldering but its no where near as effective.
@anyone with experience on solder wicks: what width of a solder wick should I be looking at? Also how long should I be getting? (Should last me at least 10 keyboards of desoldering lol)
I gotta order online even for these (mainly due to my work schedules), so it would be best if I can get a set that would last me for abit..
@anyone with experience on solder wicks: what width of a solder wick should I be looking at? Also how long should I be getting? (Should last me at least 10 keyboards of desoldering lol)
I gotta order online even for these (mainly due to my work schedules), so it would be best if I can get a set that would last me for abit..
I am got some 2mm width wicks.
Seems like most, if not all of them are 1.5meters. I would say get 3-4 rolls. Try to also use a desoldering pump.
Using wicks exclusively might be a waste of resources.
Farnell/element14 has some for $3-$4 USD a roll.
Make sure the ones you get are laced with flux. The ones without are almost useless. Adding flux works but its a ton of mess to clean, and not as effective.
I got the Edsyn soldasip "lead free" . Not sure what are the difference between these and normal ones except that they are more suited for Pb free solder I guess. I chose it because it comes with rosin flux.
Previously was using chemtronics wick with no clean flux but my solder wires have rosin flux. So, while cleaning the rosin flux, the no clean ones came off as well and made a lot of sticky mess. A beginner mistake.
Hope this helps.
Mmm, how do you tell if they are laced with flux or not?
Mmm, how do you tell if they are laced with flux or not?
Check the datasheet or the msds.
The msds will tell you what kind of chemical it contains.
the Simple questions, simple answers has officially reached epic sticky statusFTFY.
this has officially reached epic sticky status
for the record, wfd, you pushed it right over the edge and dropped it into the seven seas of sticky
mmm, between the 60$ WLC100, and the hakko 888 for 160$.. is there alot of difference?:P
I have a number of keyboards that I would need to solder (some desolder first) but still wondering if I would need something so expensive mm. Is it a worthwhile investment to get the better one?:P
mmm, between the 60$ WLC100, and the hakko 888 for 160$.. is there alot of difference?:P
I have a number of keyboards that I would need to solder (some desolder first) but still wondering if I would need something so expensive mm. Is it a worthwhile investment to get the better one?:P
I just picked up a Hakko 888D for $87 shipped?
Does a soldapullt need to be broken in? I just got one today, but it takes 2-5 times of pushing the plunger to get it to lock. Every other soldapullt I've used it push once and lock....maybe add more solder first to the joint?
Does a soldapullt need to be broken in? I just got one today, but it takes 2-5 times of pushing the plunger to get it to lock. Every other soldapullt I've used it push once and lock....maybe add more solder first to the joint?
Does a soldapullt need to be broken in? I just got one today, but it takes 2-5 times of pushing the plunger to get it to lock. Every other soldapullt I've used it push once and lock....maybe add more solder first to the joint?
Nope, it's not it's sucking ability I'm worried about, it's the tool itself. Every other soldapullt I've used, I depress the plunger once and it locks, ready to suck. On the one I got today, it seems to be 2-5 depressions before locking. However, now that I've cycled it, it seems like it's getting better,
Does a soldapullt need to be broken in? I just got one today, but it takes 2-5 times of pushing the plunger to get it to lock. Every other soldapullt I've used it push once and lock....maybe add more solder first to the joint?
Nope, it's not it's sucking ability I'm worried about, it's the tool itself. Every other soldapullt I've used, I depress the plunger once and it locks, ready to suck. On the one I got today, it seems to be 2-5 depressions before locking. However, now that I've cycled it, it seems like it's getting better,
Did you get this from Amazon, or follow my advice and order direct from Edsyn?
Does a soldapullt need to be broken in? I just got one today, but it takes 2-5 times of pushing the plunger to get it to lock. Every other soldapullt I've used it push once and lock....maybe add more solder first to the joint?
Nope, it's not it's sucking ability I'm worried about, it's the tool itself. Every other soldapullt I've used, I depress the plunger once and it locks, ready to suck. On the one I got today, it seems to be 2-5 depressions before locking. However, now that I've cycled it, it seems like it's getting better,
Did you get this from Amazon, or follow my advice and order direct from Edsyn?
Bought from ebay. A couple hundred cycles, and it's now locking on almost ever depression. So it must have needed to be broke in
mmm, between the 60$ WLC100, and the hakko 888 for 160$.. is there alot of difference?:P
I have a number of keyboards that I would need to solder (some desolder first) but still wondering if I would need something so expensive mm. Is it a worthwhile investment to get the better one?:P
If you poke around the IRC, Parak occasionally has good deals on irons he finds on eBay.hmm... iv actually been thinking about idling irc more, to get to know people. Guess this is just more incentive.
Ah, okay. Well, Edsyn's customer support is excellent, if you have any more problems with it.
mmm, between the 60$ WLC100, and the hakko 888 for 160$.. is there alot of difference?:P
I have a number of keyboards that I would need to solder (some desolder first) but still wondering if I would need something so expensive mm. Is it a worthwhile investment to get the better one?:P
The WLC100 is decent, but from what I hear the Hakko is miles ahead. Where are you buying these? I just picked up a Hakko 888D for $87 shipped?
*Thanks esoomenona
mmm, between the 60$ WLC100, and the hakko 888 for 160$.. is there alot of difference?:P
I have a number of keyboards that I would need to solder (some desolder first) but still wondering if I would need something so expensive mm. Is it a worthwhile investment to get the better one?:P
The WLC100 is decent, but from what I hear the Hakko is miles ahead. Where are you buying these? I just picked up a Hakko 888D for $87 shipped?
*Thanks esoomenona
unfortunately I'm in Singapore D: almost all the soldering stations are pretty expensive here ):
Well, I'll have...two GH60s, tutu, kmac happy to assemble.. (plus one poker to desolder + solder to add a plate..). mmm Not exactly that tight on cash now but still hope to get my moneys worth nevetheless :P
does the hakko help to make up with being a noob on soldering?:P I'll be worried about burning stuff up since I'll be doing it for the first time lol.
Not mine. Had it repaired for a customer.Wow, cool stuff. How old is it? I see they manufactured them for a few years.
Simpson 260-8P
folks with 888ds, i just got mine and i noticed that they made the the worst UI choice ever in that CALIBRATING the temperature and SETTING the temperature are almost exactly the same procedure, except that one of them requires pressing the enter button for ONE second (temp set) and the other for TWO seconds (calibration)
FACEPALM
folks with 888ds, i just got mine and i noticed that they made the the worst UI choice ever in that CALIBRATING the temperature and SETTING the temperature are almost exactly the same procedure, except that one of them requires pressing the enter button for ONE second (temp set) and the other for TWO seconds (calibration)
FACEPALM
makes me feel a bit better about going for the analog dial weller now.
folks with 888ds, i just got mine and i noticed that they made the the worst UI choice ever in that CALIBRATING the temperature and SETTING the temperature are almost exactly the same procedure, except that one of them requires pressing the enter button for ONE second (temp set) and the other for TWO seconds (calibration)
FACEPALM
you can tell which mode you're in by the temp display. if it has two dots at the bottom, you're setting the calibration, not the temperature. if it doesn't have two dots, you're setting the temperature. note that there is no "reset to factory" if you do mistakenly recalibrate. it may be possible to wipe the nvram or whatever it keeps the offset in, but i haven't gotten to that part of the manual yet.
my advice: search for amico thermometer on amazon and get a very cheap type K thermometer (25$) in case you need to recalibrate the regulator after mistakenly calibrating it instead of changing the regulator temperature. make sure the type K probe and thermometer you buy goes up to at least 250 deg C.
anything that can read up to 200C and is accurate to within 2C there it is about as accurate as the regulator, so you're good. honestly, the factory calibration probably isn't all that accurate as it is. a cheap IR thermometer placed really close to the tip will probably work fine to get it back within the ballpark (and about as accurate as the dial would have been).
also remember that anything that actually measures tip temperature is going to be more accurate than the factory calibration or wherever the regular has wandered since it left the factory. ideally you want a contact probe because the built up oxidization and tin or lack thereof can wildly change the temperature at the joint. but really, just remember that you're always guessing with materials and thermo (heisenberg or something)
Oh man, I forgot that my buddy has a IR thermometer, I'll borrow that and check to make sure I didn't mess up my calibration.
Oh man, I forgot that my buddy has a IR thermometer, I'll borrow that and check to make sure I didn't mess up my calibration.
I don't think IR gun will be food for measuring tip temps. The readout is an average temp over a certain area, and the area it measures depends the distance away from the object. The tip is too small to point an IR gun at it.
How large is the knife tip? I wouldn't imagine any soldering tip is large enough to measure with IR guns. These are more for measuring an area, not a single point, even though the gun has an aiming laser that shoots at a single point. You can try though, but I wouldn't trust accuracy doing this way because you'll pick up temps from the surrounding area as well.
Did you say Heisenberg?Show Image(http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20110817002356/breakingbad/images/e/ea/Season_4_-_Heisenberg.jpg)
contrary to popular belief, paul krugman did some really good work in this prior to globalization becoming a buzzword, and deserves the nobel as much as anyone else with a nobel -- it wasn't just political..
Here is the teardown of the FX888D from Taobaolooks unsurprisingly like the same unit. good to know there's a cheaper source IN asia
Comparison to a FX888D from other sources
http://runawaybrainz.blogspot.com/2013/03/hakko-fx-888d-solder-station-hi-res.htmlMoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/s5i1zKo.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nPCkx5a.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P2oeOdG.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ztAkliX.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/00dRI0y.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/j00XDgL.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ufYXUZH.jpg)
The white A87 ps2avr? You might want to try and program it first before you install the plate in case any of the components don't work or needs reflow. You won't be able to take them off once the plate is on. I'm stuck at the programming phase before I can put on the plate.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44504.0
Btw, when you said SMD resistors, I hope those are diodes instead, which is what the switches need. Unless you mean resistors for a backlit keyboard.
DUDES! GREAT NEWS!
I've made a huge mistake. the process for TEMPERATURE CHANGE is to hold the ENTER button for 1 second.
The process for TEMPERATURE CALIBRATION is to hold the UP button for 2 seconds. phew!!!
ok, now the bad news. i tossed an older tip on my iron and then took an extremely accurate thermistor and stuck it on the tinned and brass-brushed tip. it was 20 degrees off the regulator thermistor. i then calibrated and ta-da! melted solder. this is cool for me because i have an extremely accurate contact thermometer that is rated up to 400C, but may not work for you if you plan on buying the 888d and then blindly trusting the number on the front.
So I can't seem to find a proper manual for my Weller WES51 other than the 4 pages of toilet paper that comes in the box. Is that seriously it, or does somebody know better?
Got it! Quick question though (sorry if its been covered): what temp is the best for soldering this thing?
Thanks for everyone's tips in this thread!
euctetic = eutectic.
:))
Thanks for everyone's spelling tips in this thread!
Got it! Quick question though (sorry if its been covered): what temp is the best for soldering this thing?
I use 350 for Lead solder, and 450 for lead free.
That's in celcius by the way.
Try not to mix the tips used for Lead and lead-free solder.
I used to do everything on 5 on the weller WLC, now that I can control temps I use around 550F. It's a little bit hotter than alaricljs uses, but I find it a bit faster than if I'd use a lower temp.
I used to do everything on 5 on the weller WLC, now that I can control temps I use around 550F. It's a little bit hotter than alaricljs uses, but I find it a bit faster than if I'd use a lower temp.
I run like 650...
I used to do everything on 5 on the weller WLC, now that I can control temps I use around 550F. It's a little bit hotter than alaricljs uses, but I find it a bit faster than if I'd use a lower temp.
I run like 650...
I would have figured that you used 850F for everything
You caught me, I just plug the iron directly into a 110v plug and let the metal glow.
How do you guys like the 888D? I ended up grabbing the non-digital version (888) which I found for sale in a few places. I thought the analog control might be easier to use than the digital...I just got my 888D last week. Never soldered before in my life and within an hour of practicing on an old telephone with through hole components I was confident enough to mod my poker. It works very well, heats up extremely fast and is a solid machine. My only complaint is the lack of a decent manual but MKAWA posted a link to one in the living soldering thread. I recommend this iron. The price is pretty great too.
How do you guys like the 888D? I ended up grabbing the non-digital version (888) which I found for sale in a few places. I thought the analog control might be easier to use than the digital...
it's really not that hard to change the temperature either. Sure it's not as fast as turning a dial but you could change it to any temperature in about 7 seconds.How do you guys like the 888D? I ended up grabbing the non-digital version (888) which I found for sale in a few places. I thought the analog control might be easier to use than the digital...
I have used more expensive ones friends have had and I love the 888D. Doesn't mean I wouldn't get a more expensive one if I did specific things but the size of the 888 makes it easy to keep on your desk unlike bigger sones where you end up putting them up because they are pretty big.
@YoungMichael88, THe 888D couldn't be easier to use. It starts up to 750 and you can easily adjust it but if you are using leaded solder thats what you want 9-10. maybe if you are doing something with drastic temp changes consistently it might be better to have a dial but I don't see this as a concern for those buying the 888.
So the 888 is nice and fancy, but the OP asked about decent. By which I think he means good, not fancy.
I think this standard is met by a Weller W60 with a couple of tips for medium to x-large work and a Weller 15W (red handled version) for delicate work. And some good multi-core 60/40 solder (I like Ersin .050). The PH60 is an excellent stand for the big iron.
With that pair of relatively inexpensive irons you can solder anything from 28g wire (tiny) up to 00 monster cable. And the W60 will last decades.
I like to think of it as the Model F of soldering irons. My W60 is certainly older than my Model F or any of my Model M keyboards.
Now if only I could get a Stomberg-Carlson VOIP phone for my desk...
- Ron | samwisekoiShow Image(http://www.samwisekoi.com/pixelart/M.png)
I'd rather have a set of good screwdrivers than a multi-driver with interchangeable bits, for example. So for me, having a #0, #1, and #2 Phillips head is the same as having a 60W and a 15W iron on my bench.wiha for the drivers, and these are consumables by the way. i like having a steady supply of the standard wiha 000,00,0,1 small style drivers as well as a steady supply of the reversible and extendible drive-loc IV 1 + 2 bits and a reversible and extendible system 4 drive-loc 00 + 0
Sooth on the Nikon - I have a D (not a D-x or D-xx, the D). The addon light sensor needs to be rebuilt, but the body is nigh-indestructible (a hair of brass is showing here and there through the chrome and black layers).hundred bucks.
How do you guys clean the soldapult?you may have to disassemble it and clean the pump by hand. edsyn also sells replacement parts if your vacuum unit is unsalvageable for some reason (solder contaminating the gasket or something). i would personally start with a solvent to get rid of any rosin that might be causing the thing to stick, then pump it by hand a few times then disassemble and take a look.
It clogs up pretty quickly after desoldering a few keyboards.
I tried to clean as best as I can, but it seems that I no longer get that round piece of solder whenever I cock it in place.
Instead, it is just flakes of solder now.
wcass, try one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UCODIA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got the recommended desoldering iron from RadioShack so far. Almost got my first switch out last night (but there's a skinny filament of solder left inside one of the holes, so waiting for other tools to arrive.
Ordered these from Amazon for my 2 Filco TKL projects :)
- Weller WLC100 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Aoyue Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner with Brass (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C789EU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - 0.6 oz cuts x 2
- MG Chemicals 400 Series #3 Fine Braid Super Wick with RMA Flux, 5' Length x 0.075" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VX6O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
And of course my Prime ran out a couple days ago, so slow shipping... But when it all gets here, I'll start desoldering in earnest! Still need to get a tip tinner--probably at RadioShack on my way home from work today. Do you think the stock Weller WLC100 tip is sufficiently narrow if I'm careful, or do I need to get a smaller one?
Thanks for everyone's tips in this thread!
Cool, yeah, I'd read the threads and read Amazon / google results for comments on my choices, and they seemed to be solid. I like that you can buy smaller cuts of quality solder and braid from Amazon. It should all arrive today, and I'll see how much solder is actually in those sections. Might need to add one or two more cuts before my Prime membership runs out :) I also ordered a Used Like New soldering iron (from Amazon Warehouse Deals) to save a few dollars.
From what I understand, you want to tin the tip every few minutes. And a separate tip tinner is not required--just use your solder line.
you will actually be able to see the oxidization form on the tip. a tinned tip without oxidization is shiny silver. as it oxidizes it will change color (usually to something nasty and brownish). just toss more solder and flux on. the flux will eat through the oxidization and the solder will form a thin coat over the surface. this coating stays pretty much constant thickness as long as you wipe the excess off or use it to make joints.
for the fumes, my diy fume extractor cookbook is here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40060.msg791820#msg791820
i'll append some of my newer LARGE PRIORITY BOX designs (ahahahahah).
but seriously, i'm actually going to make some proper ones now that i've found a good cheap source of carbon.
I've got the recommended desoldering iron from RadioShack so far. Almost got my first switch out last night (but there's a skinny filament of solder left inside one of the holes, so waiting for other tools to arrive.
Ordered these from Amazon for my 2 Filco TKL projects :)
- Weller WLC100 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Aoyue Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner with Brass (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C789EU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - 0.6 oz cuts x 2
- MG Chemicals 400 Series #3 Fine Braid Super Wick with RMA Flux, 5' Length x 0.075" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VX6O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
And of course my Prime ran out a couple days ago, so slow shipping... But when it all gets here, I'll start desoldering in earnest! Still need to get a tip tinner--probably at RadioShack on my way home from work today. Do you think the stock Weller WLC100 tip is sufficiently narrow if I'm careful, or do I need to get a smaller one?
Thanks for everyone's tips in this thread!
I just noticed the wick you chose has flux in it. That means the board would need to be cleaned after using it, correct? Would something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-400-NS-Series-Desoldering/dp/B00424MWHO/ref=pd_luc_sim_01_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1
be a better option? Or do wicks with flux perform better?
1) ROSIN flux is acidic and can eat away at things if you don't clean it. hence the invention of no-clean flux, which is inert.
2) flux is a dialectric. if you have uncleaned flux inside of a lot of joints then the joints can carry non-trivial amounts of capacitance, which can **** with your circuit. ideally you should actually reflow if this is the case, but cleaning the flux turns those into easier to see air gaps, so you KNOW you need to reflow
3) solder paste is just ground up solder and flux. it has a shelf life, because flux has a shelf life iirc. it's useful in situations where you want to apply flux and solder to only one end of very small joints, ie some smt work. otherwise, it doesn't tend to be very helpful.
Thanks. In that light, maybe I will consider getting a desoldering pump instead of a wick.
the industrial SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR units are largely made to extract money from factories and labs that need to get ISO certified. they do the job, because if they didn't you couldn't get certification, but they're usually overkill and SO SO EXPENSIVEMorefiltration 101 (abbrev):
self-contained filtering of gases and liquids consist of exactly two components. 1) a pump. 2) a filter. it is exactly that simple. pumps are pumps. in gases we typically use axial fans or centrifugal blowers/turbines. in liquids, we do exactly the same thing but with more torque :)). filters come in exactly two varieties: chemical and mechanical.
an example of a mechanical filter is a paper HEPA filter. HEPA N is a standard that says that a filter media (the paper), when put in some exact laboratory situation with a blower, will act as a particle diameter low pass filter with efficiency N. that is, at least N percent of the low-diameter particles will stop at the filter, the rest can go through. this is measured over some period of time in an airtight chamber, with a specification blower, i believe, but feel free to correct me on that.
hence, mechanical filters physical block particulates above a certain effective diameter with a certain efficiency.
note that there is no standardized testing committee that certifies hepa filters THAT I KNOW OF. i imagine there is some authorized set of ISO testers. i don't really know and don't own a factory so i don't care.
a chemical filter is a medium which _neutralizes_ airborne chemical compounds via some kind of reaction (hereafter rx). the rx is open, the bandwidth of compounds is open, and the meaning of neutralize is open. i am not familiar with any standards that apply to this action.
however, typically, the kinds of things that people worry about (that are bad for one's lungs to breathe) are organic compounds, because our lungs aren't very good at dealing with those for reasons i don't particularly care to understand (probably because we're made of carbon so they stick to our little oxygen absorber thingamajigs). by definition, an organic compound which can be vaporized and become airborne is called a volatile organic compound (VOC). recall that organic compounds are all compounds that contain the element carbon. hence, what we are worried about is airborne contaminants which have carbon somewhere in their chemical construction. hence, we've come up with a fantastic way to neutralize them. we produce more carbon, negatively charge it, and give it lots of surface area, and then pass the air over it. ta-da! some poor charcoal has taken the blow and had to become attached to this nasty compound instead of our lungs. NEUTRALIZED *****. there is a standard for this, because it's actually incredibly effective, and there are tons of organic compounds which are very nasty carcinogens. also lung cancer ****ing sucks, it grows quickly and kills you in the most painful possible way.
another type of chemical filter is a silver mesh. for reasons i can't remember at all, silver does nasty things to cell walls, so if you're a small enough airborn micro-organism and your cell wall is of a garden variety (tuberculosis and many other microorgs have weird hardened cell membranes), contact with the silver might kill you. again, no standardized testing really.
SOLDER FUMES:
are all fumes from the flux burning. the metal in the solder is very heavy and we don't solder at high enough temperatures to vaporize it (like 900K). rosin flux burns to a remarkably harmless compound which i can't remember at all, but is picked up most effectively by a chemical filter. hence, i'm going out now to buy 40lbs of ionized charcoal pellets. BYE EVERYONE!
nice to have both if you don't have a dedicated electromechanical unit like the hakko 808. i don't desolder a lot so i'm good with just an edsyn soldapullt classic and a couple widths of rosin wick, but ymmv. easy to clean solder off. get ****-grade iso alcohol from the drug store. costs a buck. find an old toothbrush - free. scrub board with toothbrush and alcohol. done
Thanks. In that light, maybe I will consider getting a desoldering pump instead of a wick.
FWIW, I have a desoldering bulb like what WFD uses in his Ergo-Clear mod video. I have had zero luck with getting the pumps (Soldapults) to work. I find the bulbs and the wicks to work better than the pumps.
And I used to work at an internship where I soldered/desoldered daily for hours.
Anybody try the hakko bit multipacks found on ebay that come from china?
the industrial SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR units are largely made to extract money from factories and labs that need to get ISO certified. they do the job, because if they didn't you couldn't get certification, but they're usually overkill and SO SO EXPENSIVE
the industrial SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR units are largely made to extract money from factories and labs that need to get ISO certified. they do the job, because if they didn't you couldn't get certification, but they're usually overkill and SO SO EXPENSIVE
Yep, definitely overkill and expensive. But while activated charcoal by itself is sufficient, there is research that suggests that a HEPA postfilter can offer some additional benefit (and wouldn't hurt anyway). The foam type activated charcoal is definitely useless:
link (http://annhyg.oxfordjournals.org/content/42/8/511.abstract?maxtoshow=&HITS=10&hits=10&RESULTFORMAT=1&andorexacttitle=and&andorexacttitleabs=and&fulltext=lead+oxide+fumes&andorexactfulltext=and&searchid=1&FIRSTINDEX=0&sortspec=relevance&fdate=1/1/1844&tdate=6/30/2007&resourcetype=HWCIT)
Note that as per this (http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg248.pdf) flux fumes can definitely be harmful. But as per the link above, the ability to effectively draw them away from your face is just as important as its ability to filter.assuming you're in a sufficiently aerated space. i happen to not be actually, so i be filling garbage bags full of carbon.
These finally arrived, and I successfully desoldered Filco LEDs, which were a pain due to the tiny solder-filled holes. But that braid was quite nice. I had to put some solder onto the soldering iron tip, and then press the tip against the braid. Cleaned up the PCB with alcohol afterwards--nice and clean. Was very satisfying! I ordered another 5' section of the braid and yet another cut of the solder--just in case.
- Weller WLC100 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Aoyue Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner with Brass (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C789EU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - 0.6 oz cuts x 2
- MG Chemicals 400 Series #3 Fine Braid Super Wick with RMA Flux, 5' Length x 0.075" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VX6O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
These finally arrived, and I successfully desoldered Filco LEDs, which were a pain due to the tiny solder-filled holes. But that braid was quite nice. I had to put some solder onto the soldering iron tip, and then press the tip against the braid. Cleaned up the PCB with alcohol afterwards--nice and clean. Was very satisfying! I ordered another 5' section of the braid and yet another cut of the solder--just in case.
- Weller WLC100 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Aoyue Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner with Brass (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C789EU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - 0.6 oz cuts x 2
- MG Chemicals 400 Series #3 Fine Braid Super Wick with RMA Flux, 5' Length x 0.075" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VX6O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I've got everything for my ergo-Clear mod now, just need to wait for the new steel universal TKL plates to start shipping... Hope that won't be a terribly long wait.
never solder when you're tired.
This is probably the wrong place for this, but I'm planning on buying a soldering iron and the requirements soon to replace switches on my QFR.
What would I need without going overboard on price? I'm looking to spend a little under $100 for everything.
I'm currently looking at the WLC100 and the desoldering bulb from RadioShack, but the solder and whatever else I need is where I'm lost.
Thanks!
This is probably the wrong place for this, but I'm planning on buying a soldering iron and the requirements soon to replace switches on my QFR.
What would I need without going overboard on price? I'm looking to spend a little under $100 for everything.
I'm currently looking at the WLC100 and the desoldering bulb from RadioShack, but the solder and whatever else I need is where I'm lost.
Thanks!
Check out the stuff I got: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg933875#msg933875
Plus I also got the desoldering iron from RadioShack. The total was WELL below $100, and it's been working well so far.
Awesome! I'll definitely look into buying these soon, the pricing for all of that is perfect.This is probably the wrong place for this, but I'm planning on buying a soldering iron and the requirements soon to replace switches on my QFR.
What would I need without going overboard on price? I'm looking to spend a little under $100 for everything.
I'm currently looking at the WLC100 and the desoldering bulb from RadioShack, but the solder and whatever else I need is where I'm lost.
Thanks!
Check out the stuff I got: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg933875#msg933875
Plus I also got the desoldering iron from RadioShack. The total was WELL below $100, and it's been working well so far.
I bought a $4 pair of steel super fine tweezers
Should I feel bad?
I bought a $4 pair of steel super fine tweezers
Should I feel bad?
Nope, you should be stocked that they were only $4.
Titanium is naturally non-magnetic I think, which is nice, and quite non-corrosive. And the ones I have serrated grips, and ridges on the grip section.well you don't point them at eyes unless you really dislike the people you're point at. yeesh!
You don't need the very pointiest tweezers if you aren't going to do very small stuff. I think mine are perfect for the 0603s I usually do with them. Needle point ones bend easy and poke you in the eyes...
mmm, quick question: what setting should I be using the WLC100 at? I remember seeing this somewhere but can't seem to find it anymore D:
Picked up a cheap soldering iron and some tools to get my skills back up to scratch after a 10 year break. Realising just how useless the $15 irons from hardware stores really are, it's been a pain in the neck de-soldering all the switches on my M0115. Will be investing in an FX888 next week along with a pack of 200 switches from Matias for my first custom ;D
I got these a while back and they have worked fine:especially with modern no-clean, you can never have too much flux (that stuff is such crap...). it would be too hard to get flux-free solder to flow onto a joint, as oxidization is pretty much instantaneous and the solder needs to bond to the metal under the oxidized layer.
http://dx.com/p/lodestar-anti-static-tweezer-tilted-pointy-tip-7042
http://dx.com/p/lodestar-professional-anti-static-tweezers-pointy-tip-7000
Cheapo chinese stuff but they always have free international shipping and their stuff usually works good enough.
Does anyone have any recommendations regarding amount of flux in the solder? What is suitable for PCB work, larger cables, SMD etc? Is it ever recommended that you use flux-free solder and apply it yourself or not at all? Most solder I have seen are in the 1.2% to 2% interval.
Edit: I have never bothered enough to care about which solder I use as I have never encountered it buut I figured I might as well try to get the most suitable.
I have a sort of related question to soldering..
Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?
I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.
I have a sort of related question to soldering..
Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?
I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.
Do you mean:Show Image(https://griotsgarage.scene7.com/is/image/GriotsGarage/37850?$detail$)?
take random credit/debit/phone/gift cards.
that would be the cheapest tool you need to open cases.
I have a sort of related question to soldering..
Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?
I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.
I've had great success opening Filcos with an "iPod repair tool."Show Image(http://www.powerbookmedic.com/xcart1/images/D/ipod-tool.gif)
I've had great success opening Filcos with an "iPod repair tool."MoreShow Image(http://www.powerbookmedic.com/xcart1/images/D/ipod-tool.gif)
the ones that ifixit sells are exactly the ones in my post above. they are available for about an order of magnitude less money directly from HK or mainland china with relatively low MOQ
I have a sort of related question to soldering..
Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?
I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.
I have a sort of related question to soldering..
Does anyone know what the plastic looking tools are called that pry stuff apart (keyboards so I can solder them?) without breaking the clips?
I've had to use a plastic puddy knife to take a laptop apart, looking for something more professional for the next time.
I got this white plastic tool that was made specifically to remove the top case from Cooler Master, which works like a thing smooth wedge.
If I want to just desolder switches and re solder new switches all I need is an iron, solder and wick right? Why does everyone keep buying de soldering irons? Is wick not sufficient enough?
If I want to just desolder switches and re solder new switches all I need is an iron, solder and wick right? Why does everyone keep buying de soldering irons? Is wick not sufficient enough?
I hate wicks, suckers a better IMO
Ok, I did something stupid and pulled out one of the copper rings around the PCB holes that gets soldered to a switch pin. Is this fixable in any way? The silver metal ring around the back of the PCB, connecting to traces, is still there and fine.
That's the problem--I have a desoldering pump/tool from Radioshack. I got all the solder pools out fine, but some of the switches have tiny filaments of solder remaining. That's where I've had to add solder and maneuver with a braid, because the pump won't get those out. And they are not very visible either--have to look in carefully, and if the switches don't come out easily but look like they should, that's where those tiny filaments are :(
I've just been adding solder to all thinly-connected pins now and using desoldering braid. Reliably good result. Not a fan of the Radioshack sucker tool now =/ Much neater with a braid, and I wouldn't have had to desolder each difficult switch twice.
It seems okay in theory, except that it left 2/3rds of my switches unremovable. I even heated the pins for a while before using the suction bulb =/ The holes looked neat, but then it would turn out that there was still a thin filament of solder left somewhere inside. Seems like it's partially a Filco-related annoyance too, as not all PCBs have those copper shafts all the way through to the other side, to trap solder.
How do you wiggle the switch while heating the pins, by the way? It seems like a 3-hand job... Unless you clamp the PCB+plate in some vertical position. Would definitely be nice to not have to refill solder + use desoldering braid on everything--it's been a very slow process, sometimes I have to repeat it 2 or 3 times.
FWIW, the singe-sided MJ-1 I desoldered had no such problems.
Ok guys, thanks so much for the help / support! I got most of the switches out now--a handful to go. I did end up just heating up the stubborn pins and pushing on the switch from the other side with a flat screwdriver. That pops them right out :D
Oh yes, forgot to mention, this is what happened to my desoldering tool from Radio Shack after one day of use (more precisely after a few hours of intermittent use):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IOZk4S0.jpg)
I made sure to squeeze the bulb a few times after every switch to get all the solder out as much as possible. Apparently the tip was not made to last at all. Good thing it only cost me $5, and perhaps I can squeeze another PCB's worth of desoldering out of it, but I have my doubts!
Hrm, I should try that... I think I tossed the packaging though :( I got it to mod 2 Filco TKL keyboards, and it's dying after 1.
How do you use those syringe-like pumps? You pull with your left hand, while heating a pin with a soldering iron with your right hand?
How do you use those syringe-like pumps? You pull with your left hand, while heating a pin with a soldering iron with your right hand?
Pumps are good for removing large amounts of solder. Through hole plating makes the job a lot harder. The old single sided Filco PCBs are a breeze compared to newer ones. Braid is good for getting the last remaining solder off, and for SMD parts. It doesn't completely remove all solder completely either, parts are still often stuck somewhere...
Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.
Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.
I got a 1.2 chisel, another 1.6 (the one its comes with), and a 3.2, in case I need to do something big down the road.
For me, I feel like the 1.2 is small enough for SMD, anything smaller seems like it would just be like a needle point.
Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.
I got a question for your guys. I was in the process of building a really custom cable for my secret project and bumped the tip of the iron on the insulation of the wire. Now I have burnt on insulation on one side of the tip. Any suggestions to get it off without removing the nickel plating? I have already tried the brass sponge type tip cleaner and tinning the crap out of the tip with mounds of solder but i can't seem to cut through it.heat then use a bronze fibered brush
HELP PLEASE.
Melvang
Has anyone used a butane soldering iron? I have been looking at them and I'm curious if thereuseless. they're for joining copper pipes in plumbing
is a general preference when it comes to computer use.
Has anyone used a butane soldering iron? I have been looking at them and I'm curious if thereuseless. they're for joining copper pipes in plumbing
is a general preference when it comes to computer use.
Has anyone used a butane soldering iron? I have been looking at them and I'm curious if thereuseless. they're for joining copper pipes in plumbing
is a general preference when it comes to computer use.
Not quite true... https://www.google.se/search?q=butane+soldering+pen&tbm=isch&biw=1700&bih=956
Very high effect, no temperature control. Only good for electronics in a pinch.
What's the best way to remove LEDs?
This is sort of soldering and keyboard-related... Filco USB cables: does anyone know what is that paper-like stuff under the rubber outer insulation? Just spliced a cable, going to see if I can sleeve it and solder it back together. Some sort of an anti-static material? Unsure if it's going to cause problems to have a section without it.
Thank you--and since you possibly know about cables then, do you know what this thing is called?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Htd8IEt.jpg)
(the "stopper"-like addon to make the cable sit tightly inside the case hole).
Thanks for the tips guys.
The Hakko 888 comes stock with D16 I think. So for just basic switch work I should get a D24? I don't think I'll ever need a D12/needle size.
Any recommendations on which solder wire to get? What's easier, desolder pump or desoldering wick?
Thank you--and since you possibly know about cables then, do you know what this thing is called?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Htd8IEt.jpg)
(the "stopper"-like addon to make the cable sit tightly inside the case hole).
Thank you, JD! I'm going to stop by my local RadioShack today to get a new tip.
By the way, how long do the SoldaPult tools last? I might be getting a used one from someone for a good price, but I don't know if it's a bad idea.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DS-017-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-Removal-Remover-Tool-Blue-L-/181056125691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a27c93afb (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DS-017-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-Removal-Remover-Tool-Blue-L-/181056125691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a27c93afb)
So I'm guessing this listing is a fake, considering the price and it doesn't say Soldapullt but does use the model number?
my current roll, which will probably last until i die, btw, is 1lb of 0.025"
Wear eye protection and long pants; and never solder when you're tired.or naked... I have only burned my self soldering in my boxers lol. well not really i have also burned myself with clothes on and trying to grab the iron to low
pffff, I ONLY solder naked.Wear eye protection and long pants; and never solder when you're tired.or naked... I have only burned my self soldering in my boxers lol. well not really i have also burned myself with clothes on and trying to grab the iron to low
Don't buy the cheapest sodomy iron you can find, and practice on old motherboards...
Wear eye protection
Are the Alvin cutting mats good to use?the alvin cutting mats are great for cutting (i have a few well used ones, and they're brilliant) but they're completely nonconductive so they don't help with esd. also, they melt (ask me how i know ;))
Anyone have knowledge / experience with proper cleaning [and possibly lubrication] of switch housing metal parts--like the leaf and such? I need to clean some old switches, and will probably be using a CRC QD Electronics Cleaner to remove any oxidation initially (as it's cheap for a larger amount), but I'm wondering if lubrication is also going to be good in this case for longer-term corrosion and rust prevention. Like say Deoxit has a formula that leave a greasy residue (plastic-safe). CRC also makes a separate product (CRC 2-26 Multipurpose Lubricant) that could be applied after cleaning. From what I've been googling, people say that cleaning contacts with no-residue cleaners is great, but on moving parts it's good to leave some film of conditioning substances.my favorite deoxidizer is MG chem's electrosolve. it's pretty insane. it's also terrible for you. CAIG (the deoxit guys) also sell a deoxidizer that i have heard good things about it. if it _weren't_ switch components, i would say just use a brass brush, but i wouldn't risk an abrasive or pressure on a switch crosspoint.
What do you think--excessive for MX Switches? And moreover, could interact with Krytox lube somehow if used on the front slider parts? I only took one year of chemistry, so I don't know the proper answer :)
Picture of what I'm talking about:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mdCDns4.jpg)
i wear gloves when working with solvents, non-inert chemicals (like aforementioned electrosolve) and when i'm about to burn myself (usually what happens is i put my hand somewhere, burn myself, swear and then go put some nitrile gloves on). a 400pk is like 10 bucks at costco, and not giving yourself 3rd degree burns is worth 10 bucks.
Whenever I am working with powered cutting or drilling tools of any size i wear safety glasses that meat ANSI z87.1 specs and hearing protectionthis is something i totally should do but don't.
depends on how clumsy you are and how you like to solder. i use 63/37 0.025 diam and it would probably take me anywhere about 6in? of solder, but that's with board prep and all kinds of weird stuff. personally what i did when i was a youngun was just buy a bunch of different varieties, a small pack each (oz or two by weight and then bought a gigantor roll of the one i liked the most. in my case it was a kester 63/37, but somehow i ended up losing that and ended up with an alphacore 63/37 i also like fine
*shrug*
Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
Go watch some youtube videos
Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
Go watch some youtube videos
No u.
Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
Go watch some youtube videos
No u.
That's what I did ;D
Teensy plus hardwired matrix keyboard
Teensy plus hardwired matrix keyboard
We'll see how keen I am on doing more keyboard work after I'm done with the eDox.
But more ontopic questions; I'm assuming that I'll want 0,56mm and 0,7mm solder since that's what's closest to the ones recommended(I live in a strange place called metric-land), but should I get some finer solder if I can?
Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
Go watch some youtube videos
No u.
That's what I did ;D
Currently in the process of doing so, I'll admit that I didn't really think about watching videos when I made the first post >_>
Gonna go pick up some more soldering gear tomorrow, I found out that I'd missed a few things the first time around.
Also, since the soldering gear isn't cheap I'd like to get more use out of it than an eDox and the occasional repair job; any suggestions for other soldering projects?
Well, I rewired some headphones, An xbox 360 fightstick, my mouse cord.
Things that I actually needed to fix to get to work again lol
Stuff is here. gonna attempt to desolder an old white alps board tomorrow. :) wish me luck
Stuff is here. gonna attempt to desolder an old white alps board tomorrow. :) wish me luck
Good luck! An Alps project sounds like fun! I'm dreading desoldering my second Filco, which needs to happen soon, but it should go smoother now after my lessons from the first one.
Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
Stuff is here. gonna attempt to desolder an old white alps board tomorrow. :) wish me luck
Good luck! An Alps project sounds like fun! I'm dreading desoldering my second Filco, which needs to happen soon, but it should go smoother now after my lessons from the first one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200942287295
i happent o like the hakko sponge shape
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-A1559-Solder-Cleaning-Sponge/dp/B004P3IXUC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373638334&sr=8-2&keywords=hakko+sponge
i've also seen them at fry's for appx the same price minus ship
Where can I find chisel tips for the yihua 936 hakko knockoff? Preferrably within the uk/eu.
Where can I find chisel tips for the yihua 936 hakko knockoff? Preferrably within the uk/eu.
I think the hakko 936 tips should work. Have you checked on ebay?
But hopefully someone can confirm that first.
'For either the Hakko or the Yihua 936, soldering iron assembly’s and tips are very low cost and available on e-bay.'
Thanks for confirmation. I thought hakko tips would be compatible.. just wanted to check. What size of chisel tip would you recommend for keyboard soldering?
Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.
I use the d24 (2,4 mm chisel) for most trough-hole stuff...
More contact area than the d16 (better heat transfer) but not too big (like the d32).
Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
I also think you should watch some videos, visual learning really is the way to go here!
Anyway, if you are really looking for a quick simple writeup, here is what I do...
- For switch or LED soldering I use a 2,4mm chisel tip
- Also I use leaded rosin core solder with 1mm diameter
- Make sure components sit flush against the PCB and pins sit right
- Set the temperature of the station to 300-350 degree Celsius and wait for heatup
- Make sure your solder tip is clean, if not clean it (repeat that periodically in the process)
- Put the tip in between pad and pin and feed a small amount of solder in the gap between tip an pin for better heat transfer
- Feed solder from the other side into the gap between pin and pad (enough that you get a solid cone shape bonding) and remove tip
- The two steps above should be done fast and finished when the molten solder completely stops smoking (then the flux is used up)
- Inspect the solder spots... You want a shiny uninterrupted cone shape which contacts the whole pad, best use a magnifying glass for that
- If there seems to be something wrong with the spot, desolder -> clean -> redo, or apply some flux (you can get it seperately) and let the spot reflow by heating it up again
i don't know about the ebay tips because frankly i'd rather have a single tip that lasts 12 years than 12 tips that give me inconsistent heat transfer for one year each.
also because genuine tips are cheap.
i have one of the smaller needle points i never use, a d16, d32 (for big ****), and some other crap i never use. the d16 is pretty much going to be your go-to tip for almost everything except for joints that need a lot of power. the small tips like the d12 or the needle points are only really useful in situations where you need to be really careful about how much power you're putting into the joint. not that this doesn't include most SMD ICs, because you'll want enough surface area to be able to do a quick wipe downwards across the pins. a needle tip won't allow you to do that, but can be useful for really fine rework.
for wires or big components i break out the d32. the 888d has enough power to make quick work of those if you give it the surface area.
I'm torn between the Soldapullt and the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb for an entry level desoldering tool. I personally like the Radio Shack tool better, but it does fatigue your hand after a long session. And the Soldapullt is a high quality tool that I still use when I don't want to break out the Hakko 808 for whatever reason.
second time ever using the iron, spent 3 hours today, desoldered every switch in my poker, thinking i would need to do that to remove the plate, and swap out some stems. turns out i didn't ( :)) ) but it was great practice. desoldering is really, really tedious, but really rewarding and satisfying. took 4 mx whites i had, and put them in the right corner of my poker, aka the arrow cluster. the resoldered everything back on and everything worked. Really productive day, and feels great. very happy to be soldering.
second time ever using the iron, spent 3 hours today, desoldered every switch in my poker, thinking i would need to do that to remove the plate, and swap out some stems. turns out i didn't ( :)) ) but it was great practice. desoldering is really, really tedious, but really rewarding and satisfying. took 4 mx whites i had, and put them in the right corner of my poker, aka the arrow cluster. the resoldered everything back on and everything worked. Really productive day, and feels great. very happy to be soldering.
Radioshack desoldering iron is much nicer and faster if you were using braid.
second time ever using the iron, spent 3 hours today, desoldered every switch in my poker, thinking i would need to do that to remove the plate, and swap out some stems. turns out i didn't ( :)) ) but it was great practice. desoldering is really, really tedious, but really rewarding and satisfying. took 4 mx whites i had, and put them in the right corner of my poker, aka the arrow cluster. the resoldered everything back on and everything worked. Really productive day, and feels great. very happy to be soldering.
Radioshack desoldering iron is much nicer and faster if you were using braid.
apparently it's preference...I'm digging this soldapullt for now
Today went very wellI want to see pictures of your joints. I want to see how much you've improved :))
i have a good grip on what actually is supposed to happen, and how to do it.
Tried to mess around with the alps board, but i was having trouble, so i (carefully) got my pure pcb and successfully desoldered/resoldered a few switches and LEDs.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/991rCiH.jpg)
then i swapped a blue stem and spring on the esc, which is pretty sweet imo :D
First time having a clicky switch on a keyboard of mine...feelsgoodbro
My padawan is learning quickly. ;D
I want to see pictures of your joints. I want to see how much you've improved :))
Finished my first keyboard soldering project today!
before cleaning off the flux:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F87XlVf.jpg)
Everything works well, woot! Thans to everyone who's contributed to this thread with information :)
It says Filco on it
another thing is that, there is no rasin core solder available, apparently only lead free solder is allowed in Europe. Flux is also banned, so I have to get them from China or UK.
feels like a drug dealer ordering a flux pen from the UK preying it wont get confiscated at the custom, lol :))
oh sorry, i wasnt sure if i wrote what i meant, :-X just that everywhere i go to buy solder, they are all lead free solder, and cannot find flux pen anywhere in Switzerland, then read somewhere that lead isnt allowed anymore or something, but i managed to get a flux pen from the UK which worked like a charm.
just need to work on sucking out soler as I seem to have such a big problem with it.
by the way, what can you use to clean off flux on the PCBs?
isopropyl, isnt it the same as nail polish remover? can i use that instead?
another thing, is it necessary to actually clean the flux off? what if I cant or dont bother??
Well my Yihua just arrived. I haven't used it yet but I must say for a $15 station the quality & feel of it is really good. It might be a knockoff but it doesn't feel like it.Team Yihua!
Well my Yihua just arrived. I haven't used it yet but I must say for a $15 station the quality & feel of it is really good. It might be a knockoff but it doesn't feel like it.
Well my Yihua just arrived. I haven't used it yet but I must say for a $15 station the quality & feel of it is really good. It might be a knockoff but it doesn't feel like it.
Well my Yihua just arrived. I haven't used it yet but I must say for a $15 station the quality & feel of it is really good. It might be a knockoff but it doesn't feel like it.
Where'd ya get it? I could use a cheap variable temp station :D
Well my Yihua just arrived. I haven't used it yet but I must say for a $15 station the quality & feel of it is really good. It might be a knockoff but it doesn't feel like it.
Where'd ya get it? I could use a cheap variable temp station :D
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_USA_Warehouse_.html
Thanks JD :)
Thanks JD :)
You're welcome. It's my vision to see a Yihua on every bench. :P
Thanks JD :)
You're welcome. It's my vision to see a Yihua on every bench. :P
Shipping is as much as the iron :p Before I snag this one, is there a better Yihua around $40 that I'd be better off with or is this one just fine?
Thanks JD :)
You're welcome. It's my vision to see a Yihua on every bench. :P
Shipping is as much as the iron :p Before I snag this one, is there a better Yihua around $40 that I'd be better off with or is this one just fine?
Yes, it's around $30 shipped, as I have said before, but it is worth the $30.
This is the best option you're going to get for that price. There is a gap between this and the used genuine Hakko 936, which normally go for about $75 shipped. If you are looking for a bargain setup, go with the Yihua 936. If you can afford a bit more for a starter kit, go with a used Hakko 936, or a new Hakko 888 or Weller WES51.
Got any experience with the Weller WLC100? That one can be had for $40 shipped off Amazon.
I don't have any hesitation recommending the Yihua over the Weller WLC-100, though.
Got any experience with the Weller WLC100? That one can be had for $40 shipped off Amazon.
You will note that I deliberately excluded the WLC100 from my recommendations above. I personally wish the WLC100 would go off in a corner somewhere and die. The WLC100 has no real temperature control, only a variable setting of 1-5. There is no way to know what temp your iron is set at, unless you have an expensive thermal meter, which I'm assuming buyers of a $40 soldering station won't have.I don't have any hesitation recommending the Yihua over the Weller WLC-100, though.
If you are thinking that the WLC100 must be better because it is $40, over the Yihua 936 which is $15, you are mistaken. The Yihua is almost identical to the Hakko 936 (discontinued), which was a $100 station.
Here is a teardown video comparing the Yihua to the Hakko:
Yes, and I'm not trying to catch you on your words, but WFD uses WLC100 in his ergo-Clear mod video, and a lot of people refer to that video for information, myself included. WLC100 was listed in the recommended irons section in the first post here as well. It's worked very well for me so far, I've done a full board with it. It did not cost $15, but I got it for $36, which wasn't too bad.
But people who come in here browsing and read very polar opinions might well be put off or confused, when some people recommend a product and others call it a piece of crap. Fact is, a high percent of people visiting this thread for information will want a budget iron to do a board or two at most and then something very occasional. In that case, getting the best of the best (always subjective) might not be the goal anyway. There's the "good enough" range that corresponds to a certain dollar range. WLC100 is certainly good enough for $36 or so that you can get it from Amazon as used-like-new (and sometimes brand new, price fluctuates).
In general, it's less helpful to throw around extreme opinions than to constructively compare and say that THIS iron could do more (or less) than THAT iron for this much dollar difference for THESE different uses.
P.S.: I'd like to recommend this solder: very cheap for good-size cuts and worked really well. After a full keyboard, I'm not through with one of these by far... I got 2 extra rolls, which turned out to be entirely unnecessary.
www.cnn.com/2013/07/17/tech/paypal-error/index.html?hpt=hp_t3
That's if you can't find Kester 44 cheaply. Can get different diameters (thinner and thicker) but that's the one I got. Their desoldering braid with flux is also useful and comes in cheap small sections.
I also want to want to hype the Edsyn Soldapullt (solder sucker) because it's a great product. It works awesomely well and is sturdy. It is a bit expensive getting it directly for edsyn because of the shipping, but if you can get a buddy to buy one too and combine your shipping that might help.
You could also order a bunch of wick from Edsyn.
But people who come in here browsing and read very polar opinions might well be put off or confused, when some people recommend a product and others call it a piece of crap. Fact is, a high percent of people visiting this thread for information will want a budget iron to do a board or two at most and then something very occasional. In that case, getting the best of the best (always subjective) might not be the goal anyway. There's the "good enough" range that corresponds to a certain dollar range. WLC100 is certainly good enough for $36 or so that you can get it from Amazon as used-like-new (and sometimes brand new, price fluctuates).Yeah but the Yihua is cheaper and, according to what others have said, is better too. So because of those two things the Yihua might be a better purchase for newbies looking to get a new iron.
But people who come in here browsing and read very polar opinions might well be put off or confused, when some people recommend a product and others call it a piece of crap. Fact is, a high percent of people visiting this thread for information will want a budget iron to do a board or two at most and then something very occasional. In that case, getting the best of the best (always subjective) might not be the goal anyway. There's the "good enough" range that corresponds to a certain dollar range. WLC100 is certainly good enough for $36 or so that you can get it from Amazon as used-like-new (and sometimes brand new, price fluctuates).Yeah but the Yihua is cheaper and, according to what others have said, is better too. So because of those two things the Yihua might be a better purchase for newbies looking to get a new iron.
I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the weller. I'm sure it is, as you've said, good enough, but if you can get a better iron for cheaper.. Why not?
So get the Yihua?This seems to be what everyone has been saying. I haven't used mine as I don't have solder yet, but this thing does not have the feel of a budget iron, and I think it's well worth the $15+shipping.
The Weller station I used and loved was the Weller WES51D. That being said, the Hakko 936 I've been using has been amazing.
I've also been having trouble with the desoldering bulb and wick so I guess it's time to try my nemesis...the Soldapult. The bulb tips aren't fine enough to desolder some things like LEDs. I'm mad because I was defending the bulb so hard and it's let me down multiples times now. :(
The Weller station I used and loved was the Weller WES51D. That being said, the Hakko 936 I've been using has been amazing.
I've also been having trouble with the desoldering bulb and wick so I guess it's time to try my nemesis...the Soldapult. The bulb tips aren't fine enough to desolder some things like LEDs. I'm mad because I was defending the bulb so hard and it's let me down multiples times now. :(
You want to know how you make moves with this, son? Hakko 808. BAM!
If you want some Kester 44, it's hard to beat this roll of 0.020" solder for ~$21 shipped (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111120618298).
I would love an fx-808. I just HATE desoldering. I hope I never have to do it again (but I will)The Weller station I used and loved was the Weller WES51D. That being said, the Hakko 936 I've been using has been amazing.
I've also been having trouble with the desoldering bulb and wick so I guess it's time to try my nemesis...the Soldapult. The bulb tips aren't fine enough to desolder some things like LEDs. I'm mad because I was defending the bulb so hard and it's let me down multiples times now. :(
You want to know how you make moves with this, son? Hakko 808. BAM!
It was expensive and I don't use it often, but GD, I love my fx-808
If you want some Kester 44, it's hard to beat this roll of 0.020" solder for ~$21 shipped (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111120618298).
What about this Kester 44 for $16 shipped? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-rosin-core-solder/231017972833?_trksid=p2047675.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D13%26meid%3D9150890075728499624%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D1014%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D231004163506%26=) ;D
If you want some Kester 44, it's hard to beat this roll of 0.020" solder for ~$21 shipped (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111120618298).
What about this Kester 44 for $16 shipped? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-rosin-core-solder/231017972833?_trksid=p2047675.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D13%26meid%3D9150890075728499624%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D1014%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D231004163506%26=) ;D
Got one thanks! The guy relists more after you buy them. I asked about condition, and he says it's good, he's had no complaints from his buyers about it.
The Weller station I used and loved was the Weller WES51D. That being said, the Hakko 936 I've been using has been amazing.
I've also been having trouble with the desoldering bulb and wick so I guess it's time to try my nemesis...the Soldapult. The bulb tips aren't fine enough to desolder some things like LEDs. I'm mad because I was defending the bulb so hard and it's let me down multiples times now. :(
You want to know how you make moves with this, son? Hakko 808. BAM!
If you want some Kester 44, it's hard to beat this roll of 0.020" solder for ~$21 shipped (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111120618298).What about this Kester 44 for $16 shipped? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-rosin-core-solder/231017972833?_trksid=p2047675.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D13%26meid%3D9150890075728499624%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D1014%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D231004163506%26=) ;D
Got one thanks! The guy relists more after you buy them. I asked about condition, and he says it's good, he's had no complaints from his buyers about it.
What makes this stuff so good? I mean I'm looking to get it since it's a damn pound of solder for only $16. But whats so good about Kester 44?
If you want some Kester 44, it's hard to beat this roll of 0.020" solder for ~$21 shipped (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111120618298).
What about this Kester 44 for $16 shipped? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-rosin-core-solder/231017972833?_trksid=p2047675.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D13%26meid%3D9150890075728499624%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D1014%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D231004163506%26=) ;D
Got one thanks! The guy relists more after you buy them. I asked about condition, and he says it's good, he's had no complaints from his buyers about it.
i did in fact mention it earlier, but it can't be given enough kudos. it's awesome. for 7 bucks it's completely unbeatable.
also, interesting fact i learned about kester solders from poking around some datasheets: kester solder actually has a shelf life. 2-3 years for thin rosin cores. for serious. so get the newest run of 44 that you can find.
mg chems sells two varieties of flux cleaner, one that's plastics safe and one that's not. i've found that either solution and a nylon brush will clean ANYTHING
kester solder's shelf life can't be lengthened by sealing. it's from date of manufacture, period. sealing oxygen out will help with the oxidization problem that WFD mentioned, but i believe what's actually happening is that the kester fluxes are so active that they slowly eat through the solder. that's bad, and there's nothing you can really do about it except for not buy old solder.
that said, it's 16 bucks, and if it turns out to be bad, you can always buy a new roll of alpha, mg chem, newer kester, whatever. rosin flux solder is still alive and well in the states and being manufactured for hobbyist use, just not kester 44. however, there was never anything magic about kester 44, it was just really nice flux. those other companies i mentioned make nice flux too, and frankly, once you have your technique down, you can even solder good joints with *shudder* no clean and lead free.
mg chems sells two varieties of flux cleaner, one that's plastics safe and one that's not. i've found that either solution and a nylon brush will clean ANYTHING
kester solder's shelf life can't be lengthened by sealing. it's from date of manufacture, period. sealing oxygen out will help with the oxidization problem that WFD mentioned, but i believe what's actually happening is that the kester fluxes are so active that they slowly eat through the solder. that's bad, and there's nothing you can really do about it except for not buy old solder.
that said, it's 16 bucks, and if it turns out to be bad, you can always buy a new roll of alpha, mg chem, newer kester, whatever. rosin flux solder is still alive and well in the states and being manufactured for hobbyist use, just not kester 44. however, there was never anything magic about kester 44, it was just really nice flux. those other companies i mentioned make nice flux too, and frankly, once you have your technique down, you can even solder good joints with *shudder* no clean and lead free.
So the idea of a 2-3 year shelf life only applies to the kester 44? OR all solder?
Is it a better idea to buy solder in small amounts then? I don't see myself using much at all.
mg chems sells two varieties of flux cleaner, one that's plastics safe and one that's not. i've found that either solution and a nylon brush will clean ANYTHING
kester solder's shelf life can't be lengthened by sealing. it's from date of manufacture, period. sealing oxygen out will help with the oxidization problem that WFD mentioned, but i believe what's actually happening is that the kester fluxes are so active that they slowly eat through the solder. that's bad, and there's nothing you can really do about it except for not buy old solder.
that said, it's 16 bucks, and if it turns out to be bad, you can always buy a new roll of alpha, mg chem, newer kester, whatever. rosin flux solder is still alive and well in the states and being manufactured for hobbyist use, just not kester 44. however, there was never anything magic about kester 44, it was just really nice flux. those other companies i mentioned make nice flux too, and frankly, once you have your technique down, you can even solder good joints with *shudder* no clean and lead free.
Anyone used this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-30W-Soldering-Irons-SOLDER-SUCKER-DESOLDERING-PUMP-tips-/141013644464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d51174b0Looks dangerous lol.
Anyone used this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-30W-Soldering-Irons-SOLDER-SUCKER-DESOLDERING-PUMP-tips-/141013644464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d51174b0Looks dangerous lol.
Anyone used this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-30W-Soldering-Irons-SOLDER-SUCKER-DESOLDERING-PUMP-tips-/141013644464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d51174b0Looks dangerous lol.
just from my quick look it appears to be only 220VAC not 120 for US use
all electronics solder has flux in it. the shelf life is due to the flux not the metal alloy. the metal alloy can oxidize, but an external source of flux can make short work of the oxidization on the solder as well as the oxidization on the joint.mg chems sells two varieties of flux cleaner, one that's plastics safe and one that's not. i've found that either solution and a nylon brush will clean ANYTHING
kester solder's shelf life can't be lengthened by sealing. it's from date of manufacture, period. sealing oxygen out will help with the oxidization problem that WFD mentioned, but i believe what's actually happening is that the kester fluxes are so active that they slowly eat through the solder. that's bad, and there's nothing you can really do about it except for not buy old solder.
that said, it's 16 bucks, and if it turns out to be bad, you can always buy a new roll of alpha, mg chem, newer kester, whatever. rosin flux solder is still alive and well in the states and being manufactured for hobbyist use, just not kester 44. however, there was never anything magic about kester 44, it was just really nice flux. those other companies i mentioned make nice flux too, and frankly, once you have your technique down, you can even solder good joints with *shudder* no clean and lead free.
So the idea of a 2-3 year shelf life only applies to the kester 44? OR all solder?
Is it a better idea to buy solder in small amounts then? I don't see myself using much at all.
it's all solder and especially solder with flux in them.
Got this station.
I actually read through all 24 pages last night and it seems that people didn't have too many problems picking up soldering, more of the desoldering that was the problem. Makes me kinda confident in trying to pick it up and try to make my own 62g clears board. Lubing looks a bit tedious though; I'll have to look more into that later.
I found desoldering to be quite easy, the only trouble I had was when using the wick didn't work properly and I had to use a sucker, which ended up spewing bits solder everywhere.
Just repaired a pair of headphones that broke on me recently, one of the wires hadn't been properly soldered so I had to solder it back on. Went fairly smooth, the biggest problem was that I had to do it with the can pretty much assembled, so I had to open the can as much as I could and get the iron and solder in the crack. I did nick the plastic a bit, but it's barely noticeable so I'm not too fussed, specially since I'm going to replace them soon-ish anyway.
ok now i'm super curious. someone buy one of these and report back!
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374592266&sr=8-1&keywords=aoyue+474a%2B%2B
looks like it's basically a hakko 474, with all the extra suction that implies. replace the tip, chamber and all the filters with the hakko parts. it should come in at about the same price as an 808 but have about 2-3x more suction
ok now i'm super curious. someone buy one of these and report back!
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374592266&sr=8-1&keywords=aoyue+474a%2B%2B
looks like it's basically a hakko 474, with all the extra suction that implies. replace the tip, chamber and all the filters with the hakko parts. it should come in at about the same price as an 808 but have about 2-3x more suction
ok now i'm super curious. someone buy one of these and report back!
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374592266&sr=8-1&keywords=aoyue+474a%2B%2B
looks like it's basically a hakko 474, with all the extra suction that implies. replace the tip, chamber and all the filters with the hakko parts. it should come in at about the same price as an 808 but have about 2-3x more suction
This link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UDBGSQ/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=) has it for $99.
This link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UDBGSQ/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=) has it for $99.
And $92 for shipping :eek:
This link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UDBGSQ/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=) has it for $99.
And $92 for shipping :eek:
Totally missed that! :eek:
nevermind....
Out of my ignorance, I saw you posted you bought some stuff for your soldering station....what are the brushes for??
Out of my ignorance, I saw you posted you bought some stuff for your soldering station....what are the brushes for??
Lubing switches. I bought Sax True Flow Masters Finest Red Sable Brushes (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042SZ0CE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i04?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
Goot pump desoldering also good? :D is $10
I couldn't get Soldapullt to work with Filco PCBs. The solder goes very deep, through the holes in the PCB to the opposite side, and RadioShack iron and the like seem to be ideal. Not sure how others use Soldapullt to desolder switches from Filcos, but mine wasn't getting enough of the solder out (I think it was cooling off quickly by the time I'd get the suction tip over the hole completely.
I couldn't get Soldapullt to work with Filco PCBs. The solder goes very deep, through the holes in the PCB to the opposite side, and RadioShack iron and the like seem to be ideal. Not sure how others use Soldapullt to desolder switches from Filcos, but mine wasn't getting enough of the solder out (I think it was cooling off quickly by the time I'd get the suction tip over the hole completely.
Are you sure that you're fully heating the joint? Also, the speed and distance at which you suck the solder matters. I have the tip of the pump on the PCB really close to the joint at which I'm desoldering. Once the joint is fully heated, I move the pump closer or even over the joint, forming a seal around it and then hit the button activating the pump.
I don't always get all of the solder, but it works quite well
I think today im going to put all my whites into my poker...i want to be able to see if i will even like whites for my gh60...if i dont, then i need to grab like 130 mx blacks soon lol
might as well :))I think today im going to put all my whites into my poker...i want to be able to see if i will even like whites for my gh60...if i dont, then i need to grab like 130 mx blacks soon lol
You might as well get some of those 'old' blacks from whiskytango they are dirt cheap!!
Where's a good place to get new tips for a 936 and what's a decent tip for switch soldering? If the stock tip will do just fine then I'll stick with it as I haven't ordered my 936 yet.
Where's a good place to get new tips for a 936 and what's a decent tip for switch soldering? If the stock tip will do just fine then I'll stick with it as I haven't ordered my 936 yet.
Thanks for confirmation. I thought hakko tips would be compatible.. just wanted to check. What size of chisel tip would you recommend for keyboard soldering?
Here is some discussion from the other day on that topic!!
Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.
I use the d24 (2,4 mm chisel) for most trough-hole stuff...
More contact area than the d16 (better heat transfer) but not too big (like the d32).Just picked up some soldering gear for when my r3 eDox kit gets here, and I have minimal prior experience with soldering so I was wondering if there's a quick list of do's and don'ts when soldering that I should be aware of, besides the obvious.
Also, will a chisel tip work better for keyboard soldering than a round tip?
I also think you should watch some videos, visual learning really is the way to go here!
Anyway, if you are really looking for a quick simple writeup, here is what I do...
- For switch or LED soldering I use a 2,4mm chisel tip
- Also I use leaded rosin core solder with 1mm diameter
- Make sure components sit flush against the PCB and pins sit right
- Set the temperature of the station to 300-350 degree Celsius and wait for heatup
- Make sure your solder tip is clean, if not clean it (repeat that periodically in the process)
- Put the tip in between pad and pin and feed a small amount of solder in the gap between tip an pin for better heat transfer
- Feed solder from the other side into the gap between pin and pad (enough that you get a solid cone shape bonding) and remove tip
- The two steps above should be done fast and finished when the molten solder completely stops smoking (then the flux is used up)
- Inspect the solder spots... You want a shiny uninterrupted cone shape which contacts the whole pad, best use a magnifying glass for that
- If there seems to be something wrong with the spot, desolder -> clean -> redo, or apply some flux (you can get it seperately) and let the spot reflow by heating it up againi don't know about the ebay tips because frankly i'd rather have a single tip that lasts 12 years than 12 tips that give me inconsistent heat transfer for one year each.
also because genuine tips are cheap.
i have one of the smaller needle points i never use, a d16, d32 (for big ****), and some other crap i never use. the d16 is pretty much going to be your go-to tip for almost everything except for joints that need a lot of power. the small tips like the d12 or the needle points are only really useful in situations where you need to be really careful about how much power you're putting into the joint. not that this doesn't include most SMD ICs, because you'll want enough surface area to be able to do a quick wipe downwards across the pins. a needle tip won't allow you to do that, but can be useful for really fine rework.
for wires or big components i break out the d32. the 888d has enough power to make quick work of those if you give it the surface area.
Thought I'd share this while I'm here. 1lb spool of 63/37 Kester 44 only $21.80 and shipping isn't outrageous like the other site. http://www.all-spec.com/products/KW4410.html
Thought I'd share this while I'm here. 1lb spool of 63/37 Kester 44 only $21.80 and shipping isn't outrageous like the other site. http://www.all-spec.com/products/KW4410.html
Looks like they charge you a fee if your order is below $25 though.
I'm seriously contemplating just getting the FX888, a 1lb spool of kester 44, and a soldapullt for $120 shipped from this place right now.
I'm seriously contemplating just getting the FX888, a 1lb spool of kester 44, and a soldapullt for $120 shipped from this place right now.
Probably can't go wrong with that setup. I don't know about that site, but those products are solid.
The desoldering iron I linked earlier, has been tested and is working beautifully, this is so much better than a braid, so much faster and so much cleaner.
The desoldering iron I linked earlier, has been tested and is working beautifully, this is so much better than a braid, so much faster and so much cleaner.
Awesome. Glad it's working good for you. Although, with shipping, the cheapest I could find them in the US was like $20 on eBay. You can get a genuine Soldapullt direct from Edsyn for that.
The desoldering iron I linked earlier, has been tested and is working beautifully, this is so much better than a braid, so much faster and so much cleaner.
Awesome. Glad it's working good for you. Although, with shipping, the cheapest I could find them in the US was like $20 on eBay. You can get a genuine Soldapullt direct from Edsyn for that.
Soldapullt's tip isn't heated, unlike the one I linked and purchased, the advantage being, you don't have to worry about timing as such, melt and push the button. However I can't comment on suction power as I have never used a Soldapullt.
As far as application goes for me, it has worked quite well so far.
Oh, sorry. For some reason I thought you were talking about the Goot GS-108. Too many desoldering discussions going on at once, I guess. :)
The desoldering iron I linked earlier, has been tested and is working beautifully, this is so much better than a braid, so much faster and so much cleaner.nice!! keep us updated on how it holds up over time. this is often the trick with things that create and attempt to hold vacuum ;)
no idea, but for 4 bucks, i don't think i'd care either ;)
Alright, maybe someone can help me with this issue I've just run into. I have soldering experience, so I think I know what I'm doing, but maybe I'm missing something.Try putting some flux on it with a flux pen or brush on type, that should make the solder stick and flow on it.
I'm soldering wires to very old and possibly oxidized connections. This is a piece of equipment from the '60s.
So what's happening is that firstly the piece of metal I'm soldering to is taking a really long time to heat up, which is expected because it's a rather large piece (not a small lead like you'd expect to see today). That's fine. But then once I heat it up I can't get solder to flow to it, or get wicked away from the iron onto it. Is that due to oxidation? I tried cleaning the metal with alcohol (all I've got for cleaning at the moment). Any suggestions? The wire gets nice and solder-covered, and I can stick it through and get it "stuck" through the metal piece, but it's certainly not physically connected to the metal in any sturdy way. I need help! :)
Thanks in advance for any help!
Alright, maybe someone can help me with this issue I've just run into. I have soldering experience, so I think I know what I'm doing, but maybe I'm missing something.sometimes flux just isn't enough and you need steel wool or a stainless steel brush. oxidization is a *****!
I'm soldering wires to very old and possibly oxidized connections. This is a piece of equipment from the '60s.
So what's happening is that firstly the piece of metal I'm soldering to is taking a really long time to heat up, which is expected because it's a rather large piece (not a small lead like you'd expect to see today). That's fine. But then once I heat it up I can't get solder to flow to it, or get wicked away from the iron onto it. Is that due to oxidation? I tried cleaning the metal with alcohol (all I've got for cleaning at the moment). Any suggestions? The wire gets nice and solder-covered, and I can stick it through and get it "stuck" through the metal piece, but it's certainly not physically connected to the metal in any sturdy way. I need help! :)
Thanks in advance for any help!
I'm soldering wires to very old and possibly oxidized connections. This is a piece of equipment from the '60s.
Solder won't bind to stuff that are heavily oxidized or corroded. If it's really bad, first try some physical abrasion, then use flux. RA flux works best, but must be cleaned off after soldering, otherwise it'll cause corrosion over time. The no-clean type works ok too.
Flux is magic :)
sometimes flux just isn't enough and you need steel wool or a stainless steel brush. oxidization is a *****!
Try putting some flux on it with a flux pen or brush on type, that should make the solder stick and flow on it.
also keep in mind that there's more than one way to heat things. there is contact and there is LAMINAR FLOW OF VERY HOT FLUIDS. basically, take a huge effing hot air gun and heat those oxidated suckers up, then take something really abrasive and abrade the **** out of it while it's hot.Sand blaster? ^-^
keep in mind you need to leave the PCB and components intact...
DO IT AND TAKE PICS!!
Thought I'd share this while I'm here. 1lb spool of 63/37 Kester 44 only $21.80 and shipping isn't outrageous like the other site. http://www.all-spec.com/products/KW4410.html
Thought I'd share this while I'm here. 1lb spool of 63/37 Kester 44 only $21.80 and shipping isn't outrageous like the other site. http://www.all-spec.com/products/KW4410.html
here is the .20 version also
http://www.all-spec.com/products/Soldering_and_Rework%7CSolder_and_Soldering_Chemicals%7CSOL-0C/KW4400.html
i will be completely amazed if you manage to get through more than a single lb of solder in your lifetime.
i will be completely amazed if you manage to get through more than a single lb of solder in your lifetime.
i will be completely amazed if you manage to get through more than a single lb of solder in your lifetime.
Hell, I use solder errday and I'm not sure I'll need much more than an LB.
That's why I ordered 4oz of .020" instead of getting a pound. It was around the same price per oz as a 1 pound roll of it and since I knew I wasn't going to be soldering a ton, it just made more sense to do that.
That's why I ordered 4oz of .020" instead of getting a pound. It was around the same price per oz as a 1 pound roll of it and since I knew I wasn't going to be soldering a ton, it just made more sense to do that.
In retrospect I should've probably saved the money and went with that. No way I'm gonna use all of that. Plus I'll be away at school. Guess I'm bringing my iron with me :D
That's why I ordered 4oz of .020" instead of getting a pound. It was around the same price per oz as a 1 pound roll of it and since I knew I wasn't going to be soldering a ton, it just made more sense to do that.
Found a solder similar to the Kester 44. There is much less of but at a similar price per ounce since I doubt anyone is really going to need 1lbs of solder for keyboards. And it's .020" thick so it should be thin enough in diameter for SMD work
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SMDSW.020_4ozvirtualkey63560000virtualkey910-SMDSW.0204OZ
that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ
that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ
That second link isn't a bad deal. If you want some good solder in a compact size I'd do it. I love those little tube packs for soldering. Though, ~$8 for 3/4 Oz is mad expensive. You can get a pound, which is almost 20x more for about 3x that price.
that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ
That second link isn't a bad deal. If you want some good solder in a compact size I'd do it. I love those little tube packs for soldering. Though, ~$8 for 3/4 Oz is mad expensive. You can get a pound, which is almost 20x more for about 3x that price.
Considering that you can get 4 oz for around $12 in my link, it is mad expensive
that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ
That second link isn't a bad deal. If you want some good solder in a compact size I'd do it. I love those little tube packs for soldering. Though, ~$8 for 3/4 Oz is mad expensive. You can get a pound, which is almost 20x more for about 3x that price.
Considering that you can get 4 oz for around $12 in my link, it is mad expensive
Ignoring price what about the actual solder :P
that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ
That second link isn't a bad deal. If you want some good solder in a compact size I'd do it. I love those little tube packs for soldering. Though, ~$8 for 3/4 Oz is mad expensive. You can get a pound, which is almost 20x more for about 3x that price.
Considering that you can get 4 oz for around $12 in my link, it is mad expensive
Ignoring price what about the actual solder :P
And then you can get 16oz for $22 in my link. This is just a vicious cycle. Soon someone will find a 10lb spool for $200.
As for Ray, the solder is Kester 44, it's the same as we've been posting so I presume it'll be just fine :)
that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ
That second link isn't a bad deal. If you want some good solder in a compact size I'd do it. I love those little tube packs for soldering. Though, ~$8 for 3/4 Oz is mad expensive. You can get a pound, which is almost 20x more for about 3x that price.
Considering that you can get 4 oz for around $12 in my link, it is mad expensive
Ignoring price what about the actual solder :P
And then you can get 16oz for $22 in my link. This is just a vicious cycle. Soon someone will find a 10lb spool for $200.
As for Ray, the solder is Kester 44, it's the same as we've been posting so I presume it'll be just fine :)
ALL ABOARD THE QUOTE TRAIN!!
Get 1lb and be done for life.
I had no option here in India, as only one shop in 800 shops in our electronics market had 63/37 solder, that too non-Kester-44. Minimum amount was 1lb for $9
[/quote
With those pocket packs like M&G chemicals 0.6oz 63/37 .032 I was able to solder my Phantom and a couple of usb connectors. I would rather buy the small ones so its fresh, they are only a couple bucks a pack
my god. i've actually used every single one of those (although not in those sizes). i've never liked 60/40, but it has its uses in certain applications. the basic idea is that they are all high quality solders. MG chem, alpha metals, chemtronics, and kester all make FANTASTIC products. i may hate no-clean for hobbyist use, but even their no clean is extremely good given the constraints (all of them). choose based on flux type, solder diameter, price, alloy and quantity. you will be hard pressed to find a quantifiable difference between any of those manufacturers' comparable products in hobbyist use.that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ
so I may have broken my soldering iron after a total of 5 minutes. I took it out and wanted to just use the hakko tip I bought and apparently it didnt fit over the heating element?(not sure if thats what it is) and the white part cracked/broke. Oh and it still doesnt fit with part of it cracked off since the cover part wont screw on afterwards.
I haven't tested it yet, but any idea how bad this is? Wasn't sure if this meant it was unsafe to use or wont heat the tip properly now.
the yihau 936so I may have broken my soldering iron after a total of 5 minutes. I took it out and wanted to just use the hakko tip I bought and apparently it didnt fit over the heating element?(not sure if thats what it is) and the white part cracked/broke. Oh and it still doesnt fit with part of it cracked off since the cover part wont screw on afterwards.
I haven't tested it yet, but any idea how bad this is? Wasn't sure if this meant it was unsafe to use or wont heat the tip properly now.
What kinda iron was it again? And that looks pretty serious bud. :(
my god. i've actually used every single one of those (although not in those sizes). i've never liked 60/40, but it has its uses in certain applications. the basic idea is that they are all high quality solders. MG chem, alpha metals, chemtronics, and kester all make FANTASTIC products. i may hate no-clean for hobbyist use, but even their no clean is extremely good given the constraints (all of them). choose based on flux type, solder diameter, price, alloy and quantity. you will be hard pressed to find a quantifiable difference between any of those manufacturers' comparable products in hobbyist use.that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK)
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ)
my god. i've actually used every single one of those (although not in those sizes). i've never liked 60/40, but it has its uses in certain applications. the basic idea is that they are all high quality solders. MG chem, alpha metals, chemtronics, and kester all make FANTASTIC products. i may hate no-clean for hobbyist use, but even their no clean is extremely good given the constraints (all of them). choose based on flux type, solder diameter, price, alloy and quantity. you will be hard pressed to find a quantifiable difference between any of those manufacturers' comparable products in hobbyist use.that solder has no-clean flux. what we like about kester 44 is the fact that it has a very active (ie, very corroside) RA rosin flux. chip quik might still make a good RA rosin core solder though. i'm pretty MG chem still does, and their rosin is top notch.
edit: note that the major difference between no-clean and rosin flux is that no-clean is _not_ very active. hence, you don't have to clean it off the board after you solder. this is quite if you're processing 1 MILLION PCBs per minute, but if you're soldering like one a week you want the rosin.
If I wanted to get solder in small amounts would any of the following be worthwhile? I know were beating a dead horse...but I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge slowly ;)
Kester 63/37 .031 Solder,Rosin Core #44, 20 ft, NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/111098191441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" Dispense-Pak
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152828428?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
or perhaps these
MG Chemicals 4880 Series, Sn63/Pb37 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 0.6 oz Pocket Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK)
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ)
So for a noob soldering on keyboards would any of those 4 listed be a 'better' choice?
Kester Pocket Pack Solder 60/40 0.031 0.50 oz. Tube
*sigh* I tested it and I think the crack ****ed with the sensor, so it looks like I'm ordering a soldering iron from amazon and wont get it till friday. I have class all day tomorrow anyway :\ but still.
*sigh* I tested it and I think the crack ****ed with the sensor, so it looks like I'm ordering a soldering iron from amazon and wont get it till friday. I have class all day tomorrow anyway :\ but still.
Yeah, that ceramic part is fairly integral, too. Gotta make sure your tips are the right ones for your device, bruh.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ORB8J2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
says backwards compatible with 900m which google shows https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.html
which lists the 936, but o well. It's too late now.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ORB8J2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
says backwards compatible with 900m which google shows https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.html
which lists the 936, but o well. It's too late now.
Sucks about the element, I found a post that says the Hakko or Yihua 936 used the same tip, but its quite possible either it was erroneous or Yihua changed the design since then. :/ There are replacement elements around if that is what broke, but that may be chasing more stress rather than going for a new iron, especially if other things are different sizes / ratings between the two.
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Replacement-Heating-Element-Soldering/dp/B00CQMHNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375311670&sr=1-1&keywords=936+heating+element
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ORB8J2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
says backwards compatible with 900m which google shows https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.html
which lists the 936, but o well. It's too late now.
Sucks about the element, I found a post that says the Hakko or Yihua 936 used the same tip, but its quite possible either it was erroneous or Yihua changed the design since then. :/ There are replacement elements around if that is what broke, but that may be chasing more stress rather than going for a new iron, especially if other things are different sizes / ratings between the two.
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Replacement-Heating-Element-Soldering/dp/B00CQMHNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375311670&sr=1-1&keywords=936+heating+element
Yeah I think I would still need to desolder the old element+solder a new one, not to mention wait 3-4 weeks for it to come in. So I just bit the bullet and bought a new soldering iron so I can go ahead and do my soldering this weekend.
I was just going to buy an aoyue station from amazon and get it here by friday.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ORB8J2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
says backwards compatible with 900m which google shows https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.html
which lists the 936, but o well. It's too late now.
Sucks about the element, I found a post that says the Hakko or Yihua 936 used the same tip, but its quite possible either it was erroneous or Yihua changed the design since then. :/ There are replacement elements around if that is what broke, but that may be chasing more stress rather than going for a new iron, especially if other things are different sizes / ratings between the two.
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Replacement-Heating-Element-Soldering/dp/B00CQMHNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375311670&sr=1-1&keywords=936+heating+element
Yeah I think I would still need to desolder the old element+solder a new one, not to mention wait 3-4 weeks for it to come in. So I just bit the bullet and bought a new soldering iron so I can go ahead and do my soldering this weekend.
I'm assuming you mean the plug in part and not the whole station, right?
If I'm remembering jdcarpe right, you should have been able to get a true hakko wand at that point, which means no question that hakko 900 tips fit.
I was just going to buy an aoyue station from amazon and get it here by friday.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ORB8J2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
says backwards compatible with 900m which google shows https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.html
which lists the 936, but o well. It's too late now.
Sucks about the element, I found a post that says the Hakko or Yihua 936 used the same tip, but its quite possible either it was erroneous or Yihua changed the design since then. :/ There are replacement elements around if that is what broke, but that may be chasing more stress rather than going for a new iron, especially if other things are different sizes / ratings between the two.
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Replacement-Heating-Element-Soldering/dp/B00CQMHNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375311670&sr=1-1&keywords=936+heating+element
Yeah I think I would still need to desolder the old element+solder a new one, not to mention wait 3-4 weeks for it to come in. So I just bit the bullet and bought a new soldering iron so I can go ahead and do my soldering this weekend.
I'm assuming you mean the plug in part and not the whole station, right?
If I'm remembering jdcarpe right, you should have been able to get a true hakko wand at that point, which means no question that hakko 900 tips fit.
Oh wow, the wands are a lot more expensive than I realized XD Carry onYeah I think they were between $10-20 and would take until at the very least monday (ebay) to get here. I'd rather just get a new station and have it here friday.
Oh wow, the wands are a lot more expensive than I realized XD Carry onYeah I think they were between $10-20 and would take until at the very least monday (ebay) to get here. I'd rather just get a new station and have it here friday.
Oh wow, the wands are a lot more expensive than I realized XD Carry onYeah I think they were between $10-20 and would take until at the very least monday (ebay) to get here. I'd rather just get a new station and have it here friday.
I was looking up the hakko ones through amazon, they're closer to $100
Oh wow, the wands are a lot more expensive than I realized XD Carry onYeah I think they were between $10-20 and would take until at the very least monday (ebay) to get here. I'd rather just get a new station and have it here friday.
FX888, Soldapullt, and Kester 44 came in yesterday. This iron, omg. Coming from a Home Depot Weller 15w for small electronics work, and a Weller 110/140W Gun for car audio, this thing is outstanding. I was only able to use it for a few minutes late last night, so I took apart a broken LED flashlight and desoldered the 3 LEDs in less than a minute. I'm gonna have a fun time with this bad boy :)
FX888, Soldapullt, and Kester 44 came in yesterday. This iron, omg. Coming from a Home Depot Weller 15w for small electronics work, and a Weller 110/140W Gun for car audio, this thing is outstanding. I was only able to use it for a few minutes late last night, so I took apart a broken LED flashlight and desoldered the 3 LEDs in less than a minute. I'm gonna have a fun time with this bad boy :)
thats my gear son. **** yea. kester 44, Hakko fx888d, and Edsyn Deluxe Soldapullt are my jam. be sure to have a nice light and something to help hold your project.
our setups are premo, but i am still looking for a descent helping hand setup. the cheap one i bought on amazon sucks toe nails. one thing no one told me when i got into soldering is that you need 3-4 hands for everything you want to do outside of keyboards (which are really easy to work with). also do yourself a favor and stay away from SMD work. that shiz sucks.
I regret not buying the FX-888D, but it's over $200 here, so a bit hard to justify. But if I should somehow find a buyer for my current iron(hah, as if), or it breaks, I'll probably get the FX-888D.
I regret not buying the FX-888D, but it's over $200 here, so a bit hard to justify. But if I should somehow find a buyer for my current iron(hah, as if), or it breaks, I'll probably get the FX-888D.
Could you benefit from someone purchasing it here and mailing it to you?
who was it that broke a heating element? replacement parts are easily available. however, you will have to buy genuine hakko (not a terrible thing). call up the hakko folks in your country and ask a replacement heating element for a hakko 936. while you're at it, pick up some tips that are the right size (hakko is pushing the T series tips now for the 888(d) series. these tips do NOT fit the older 936s.
sweet! you don't have to buy genuine hakko: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=936+heating+element&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A936+heating+element
of course, you will need to solder the new heating element onto the iron. this is surprisingly easy. twist the wire joints together by hand and put your iron together. MAKE SURE that you've run enough cable that the solder joints are not inside the solder pen (this will make more sense once you get everything apart). the soldering pencil will heat up with the hand twisted electrical connections. OK, you're ready! now solder the joints and shrink your heatshrink or wrap your joints with good quality electrical tape (nowadays this stuff is fiberglass and not rubber by the way).
vun: when it comes down to it, a well soldered joint is a well soldered joint. alaricjls built probably hundreds of keyboards with the weller wlc-100, which is a station that i hate with a passion that could ignite a thousand suns. however, his technique is good and hence his joints are good. to my knowledge, he's never had a single failure in the field.Oh, it's not that; I know the station is good as I've got a friend who has one who's done loads of soldering with it, LEDs, controllers, that sorta stuff. I just think the Hakko looks smoother and it would make me feel far more confident in my equipment at least. And it'd be easier to get more tips should I want that, afaik there are only two different tips available for mine, so if I'd want a larger wedge for easier desoldering of large joints/components I'm SOL.
Currently lowpoly wiring my custom board, kill me. On a lighter note the soldering station I picked up off eBay is pretty awesome for a $40 job. It's a rebadge of the Sparkfun station if anyone is interested.
Currently lowpoly wiring my custom board, kill me. On a lighter note the soldering station I picked up off eBay is pretty awesome for a $40 job. It's a rebadge of the Sparkfun station if anyone is interested.
Nice! How's it going? Seems like you're not enjoying it?
I'm getting there, SLOWLY. I probably could have got it done a lot quicker but I wound up wrapping the diodes around their own length of wire and then heatshrunk in between each pin. Time consuming as hell but with both the columns and rows insulated looks a lot cleaner and will make shorts pretty much impossible. Got all the rows done and I've just started the columns, they're going a lot quicker though so I should have it ready to go sometime tomorrow!
I just want to warn everyone DO NOT USE A SOLDAPULLT COPY!!!!
I was using one made by 'draper' and it kept on jamming & failing to desolder the joint.. In the end it resulted in the pad getting broken. I now think that particular switch spot on the pcb may be permanently broken.
Also, it wasn't my technique. I've desoldered full boards before and I know how to do it. I also cleaned it out multiple times once it started jamming. It's also fairly new.
Maybe this is why I messed up 3 pads and a trace on my Phantom during my desoldering operation. Used a combination of a solder sucker and the desoldering iron both radio shack brand.The problem with mine was that it simply wouldn't suck up all the solder. I had to repeat it again and again, until it reached a point where the pad was screwed up and it couldn't be fixed.
Any chance we can get some tip suggestions in the OP at least for sizes? I am looking to replace the tip on my Weller and not sure what size I want to get. I know I want to go a bit smaller but not sure how much.
Any chance we can get some tip suggestions in the OP at least for sizes? I am looking to replace the tip on my Weller and not sure what size I want to get. I know I want to go a bit smaller but not sure how much.
Well, even though my desoldering pump failed and ****ed up a pad I did take a few pictures of my solder joints while I was at it. What do you guys think?
(http://i.imgur.com/deWp8r5.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/deWp8r5.jpg)
Maybe this is why I messed up 3 pads and a trace on my Phantom during my desoldering operation. Used a combination of a solder sucker and the desoldering iron both radio shack brand.The problem with mine was that it simply wouldn't suck up all the solder. I had to repeat it again and again, until it reached a point where the pad was screwed up and it couldn't be fixed.
Any chance we can get some tip suggestions in the OP at least for sizes? I am looking to replace the tip on my Weller and not sure what size I want to get. I know I want to go a bit smaller but not sure how much.
Well, even though my desoldering pump failed and ****ed up a pad I did take a few pictures of my solder joints while I was at it. What do you guys think?
(http://i.imgur.com/deWp8r5.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/deWp8r5.jpg)
One of the worst joints I've seen
jk. Are you fishing for compliments? That's a good joint in regards to how much solder applied, and even heat flow.
I was looking at this (http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/assembled-ergodox-t6255.html) and yeah.... kinda looks like too little solder. Is there any reason to solder the Edox like that? Sorry if this is a dumb question but you know a thing or two about soldering.
One of the worst joints I've seenFor once I wasn't fishing for compliments :)) Just wanted to get some feedback on my joints to see if they were ok. Thanks :)
jk. Are you fishing for compliments? That's a good joint in regards to how much solder applied, and even heat flow.
I was looking at this (http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/assembled-ergodox-t6255.html) and yeah.... kinda looks like too little solder. Is there any reason to solder the Edox like that? Sorry if this is a dumb question but you know a thing or two about soldering.
That guy you linked used too much solder for the diodes, and not enough solder for the switch pins. There should be solder coming out of the hole. There is a higher risk of cold joints when you don't put enough solder (especially the very bottom right hole in the pic). Most of the time, you only really need an electrical connection, but specifically ergo-doxes need a fully complete solder joint because it's all the mechanical support that switch has. The acrylic plate does nothing to actually lock down the switch.
That is a bulk price of 5 units or more plus shipping from overseas if I read that site correctly.
So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?
Oh.. that's cool. Anyway, I might as well pick up some wick anyway, especially if edsyn make good stuff.So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?
I think if you call they wave the $25 minimum.
So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?
I think if you call they wave the $25 minimum.
So, I'm about to buy an OG soldapullt, but they have a $25 minimum. I figure picking up some wick while I'm at it couldn't hurt.. Is edsyn wick any good, if so which of their wicks would you guys recommend?
I think if you call they wave the $25 minimum.
That's nice of them. I never knew that!
so today i swapped most of the clear switches from my poker, and put in mx whites i recieved from a GB. i think this is the 4th time i have taken apart my poker completely and put it back together, but this time i was putting in new switches. it's quickest i have done it so far too, at 1 hour and 45 minutes. the mx whites feel great, the first clicky switches i am ever trying too. they are really cool and nice and tactile. i also couldn't bare the OEM caps i was using on my poker, so i broke down and put on the GMK doubleshots i bought back in May (i had told myself i was saving them for my main gh60). they feel *amazing* and i think they are gonna stay on my poker. i can say that my joints are getting much better and i'm doing a better job overall, and it keeps on getting better everytime i sit down and play with my poker.
They're like what blues should be.
Any suggestions for heat setting on my Weller with a 1.6mm tip?
what kind of iron is it? is it a station or a stand-alone pencil? not getting hot with a pencil indicates heater failure. if it's a station it could either be the power supply or the heater. sometimes cheaper to replace the heater (on a high quality iron) than the entire iron.
What model Weller do you have? Can you adjust it to an actual temperature or do you have the Weller that has heat levels 1-5?It is the WLC100 so just 1-5 settings. With the wider factory tip I was using about 3.75 but I can give 3-3.5 a try.
If you can set it to an actual temperature, I usually run my iron around 650 - 700 F.
What model Weller do you have? Can you adjust it to an actual temperature or do you have the Weller that has heat levels 1-5?It is the WLC100 so just 1-5 settings. With the wider factory tip I was using about 3.75 but I can give 3-3.5 a try.
If you can set it to an actual temperature, I usually run my iron around 650 - 700 F.
So today I tried to desolder MX switches with LEDs from a board and out ~50 desolderings, all of the solder points still contained some solder. I used a
http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17537-Desoldering-Pump-Anti-Static/dp/B003E48EQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376440377&sr=8-4&keywords=solder+sucker (http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17537-Desoldering-Pump-Anti-Static/dp/B003E48EQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376440377&sr=8-4&keywords=solder+sucker)
which I think doesn't have enough suction. Any recommendations for something else? How is the Soldapult compared to it?
So today I tried to desolder MX switches with LEDs from a board and out ~50 desolderings, all of the solder points still contained some solder. I used a
http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17537-Desoldering-Pump-Anti-Static/dp/B003E48EQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376440377&sr=8-4&keywords=solder+sucker (http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17537-Desoldering-Pump-Anti-Static/dp/B003E48EQ6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376440377&sr=8-4&keywords=solder+sucker)
which I think doesn't have enough suction. Any recommendations for something else? How is the Soldapult compared to it?
In those cases, I would prop up the switch gently with a flat head screwdriver on the plate side with one hand and heat up still attached pins with the soldering iron with the other. Eventually the switch will pop out, and if you are gentle and careful, it's an easy and safe process. It was annoying, but I had to do that for a lot of switches between 2 Filco PCBs (those damn through-hole copper inserts and solder going all the way to the other side).
In those cases, I would prop up the switch gently with a flat head screwdriver on the plate side with one hand and heat up still attached pins with the soldering iron with the other. Eventually the switch will pop out, and if you are gentle and careful, it's an easy and safe process. It was annoying, but I had to do that for a lot of switches between 2 Filco PCBs (those damn through-hole copper inserts and solder going all the way to the other side).
In those cases, I would prop up the switch gently with a flat head screwdriver on the plate side with one hand and heat up still attached pins with the soldering iron with the other. Eventually the switch will pop out, and if you are gentle and careful, it's an easy and safe process. It was annoying, but I had to do that for a lot of switches between 2 Filco PCBs (those damn through-hole copper inserts and solder going all the way to the other side).
In those cases, I would prop up the switch gently with a flat head screwdriver on the plate side with one hand and heat up still attached pins with the soldering iron with the other. Eventually the switch will pop out, and if you are gentle and careful, it's an easy and safe process. It was annoying, but I had to do that for a lot of switches between 2 Filco PCBs (those damn through-hole copper inserts and solder going all the way to the other side).
They have LEDs attached, so it's not that simple :(
I'll try the RadioShack thing.
I didn't really have any trouble using my soldapullt even on the led'ed switches. But that was a QFR and apparently those are cake. I just added new solder to each joint before desoldering. Sounds like a pain but the few times I tried without it, I had trouble melting the old solder. ==
I didn't really have any trouble using my soldapullt even on the led'ed switches. But that was a QFR and apparently those are cake. I just added new solder to each joint before desoldering. Sounds like a pain but the few times I tried without it, I had trouble melting the old solder. ==
Sounds about right. The QFR really is cake compared to Filco. Filco, you definitely have to add some solder to help it melt and suck up.
I like your avatar Xenderwind :D I've had multiple Asuka avatars in the past on this forum :D
Xender I keep thinking you're Vesper now since your avatar is practically the same as his old one.
God damn it guys can you please pick an anime that isn't Evangelion, I think there's at least 10 Evangelion avatars on this forum already.. :))
I didn't really have any trouble using my soldapullt even on the led'ed switches. But that was a QFR and apparently those are cake. I just added new solder to each joint before desoldering. Sounds like a pain but the few times I tried without it, I had trouble melting the old solder. ==
Sounds about right. The QFR really is cake compared to Filco. Filco, you definitely have to add some solder to help it melt and suck up.
I like your avatar Xenderwind :D I've had multiple Asuka avatars in the past on this forum :D
:D I usually notice who is posting by their avatars so I wasn't sure if I wanted to change mine, but I saw a lot of other people doing it recently so I didn't feel too bad.
But back on topic. Couldn't you try removing the leds first and then the switches? I don't know how other boards are but my led's were just through the holes in the top of the switch housing.
Xender I keep thinking you're Vesper now since your avatar is practically the same as his old one.
God damn it guys can you please pick an anime that isn't Evangelion, I think there's at least 10 Evangelion avatars on this forum already.. :))
Xender I keep thinking you're Vesper now since your avatar is practically the same as his old one.
God damn it guys can you please pick an anime that isn't Evangelion, I think there's at least 10 Evangelion avatars on this forum already.. :))
I hope you're happy. I also thought about stealing your avatar for a couple hours.
I hope you're happy.Very :))
You called? :-*:))
I'm having a problem desoldering Cherry MX plate mount switches. It seems that when they soldered the board (Poker 2), the solder went very high up on the pins. I'm using the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb now and it can't seem to melt the solder high up on the pins. Also, it takes quite a bit of force to push the desoldered switches out. Is this normal?
I'm having a problem desoldering Cherry MX plate mount switches. It seems that when they soldered the board (Poker 2), the solder went very high up on the pins. I'm using the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb now and it can't seem to melt the solder high up on the pins. Also, it takes quite a bit of force to push the desoldered switches out. Is this normal?
For the board and what you're using, yes.
Desoldering a poker and that desoldering tool made me hate humanity.
I'm having a problem desoldering Cherry MX plate mount switches. It seems that when they soldered the board (Poker 2), the solder went very high up on the pins. I'm using the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb now and it can't seem to melt the solder high up on the pins. Also, it takes quite a bit of force to push the desoldered switches out. Is this normal?
For the board and what you're using, yes.
Desoldering a poker and that desoldering tool made me hate humanity.
Are there any better options before I go insane?
:blank:
the aoyue and 808 will definitely be competing for suction. the aoyue is cool because no one's purchased one yet and in theory is has a ton more space for vacuum pump and is easier to handle, with the station-pencil design. also it's parts-compatible with the very very good hakko 474, which was literally the step above the 808 in the hakko line for like 10 years
aoyue 474a++!!!
Don't tempt me!
aoyue 474a++!!!
Do we have links to a great deal on this by any chance? I didn't find anything posted previously in the thread so far, but maybe I missed it.
aoyue 474a++!!!
Do we have links to a great deal on this by any chance? I didn't find anything posted previously in the thread so far, but maybe I missed it.
aoyue 474a++!!!
Do we have links to a great deal on this by any chance? I didn't find anything posted previously in the thread so far, but maybe I missed it.
Looks like it's $99 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Desoldering-Station/dp/B001UDBGSQ (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Desoldering-Station/dp/B001UDBGSQ)
aoyue 474a++!!!
Do we have links to a great deal on this by any chance? I didn't find anything posted previously in the thread so far, but maybe I missed it.
Looks like it's $99 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Desoldering-Station/dp/B001UDBGSQ (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Desoldering-Station/dp/B001UDBGSQ)
http://assets0.ordienetworks.com/images/GifGuide/michael_scott/The-Office-gifs-the-office-14948948-240-196.gifDon't tempt me!
Do it!
Also, if your new name is going to be MOZ, you have to change your avatar to something similar to this:Show Image(http://blogs2.startribune.com/blogs/randball/files/2008/05/schur.jpg)
Michael Schur as character "Mose Schrute" from the American TV series, "The Office."
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
Hmmm...I will keep that one in mind for when I finally purchase...thanks!
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
Hmmm...I will keep that one in mind for when I finally purchase...thanks!
Someone is selling an FX888D w/ Kester 44 and an FX808 in the classifieds, $115 and $140 respectively.
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
Hmmm...I will keep that one in mind for when I finally purchase...thanks!
Someone is selling an FX888D w/ Kester 44 and an FX808 in the classifieds, $115 and $140 respectively.
I know that 808 so tempting.....
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
Hmmm...I will keep that one in mind for when I finally purchase...thanks!
Someone is selling an FX888D w/ Kester 44 and an FX808 in the classifieds, $115 and $140 respectively.
I know that 808 so tempting.....
Do it! You won't regret. :)
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
Hmmm...I will keep that one in mind for when I finally purchase...thanks!
Someone is selling an FX888D w/ Kester 44 and an FX808 in the classifieds, $115 and $140 respectively.
I know that 808 so tempting.....
Do it! You won't regret. :)
well I know 'someday' I'm going to end up desoldering a backlit board and then it would come in handy!
I've got all this stuff I'm 'going' to do 'someday'.....right now it all sits in boxes.
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
Hmmm...I will keep that one in mind for when I finally purchase...thanks!
Someone is selling an FX888D w/ Kester 44 and an FX808 in the classifieds, $115 and $140 respectively.
yeah ......about that....shipping on that one is $92
this one
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC (http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-474A-Digital-Desoldering-Station/dp/B00ABJ4AEC)
comes out to ~$148 shipped
but both are sold by third parties
Hmmm...I will keep that one in mind for when I finally purchase...thanks!
Someone is selling an FX888D w/ Kester 44 and an FX808 in the classifieds, $115 and $140 respectively.
I know that 808 so tempting.....
Do it! You won't regret. :)
well I know 'someday' I'm going to end up desoldering a backlit board and then it would come in handy!
I've got all this stuff I'm 'going' to do 'someday'.....right now it all sits in boxes.
You and me both, brother. You and me both.
If there's one thing being in the Boyscouts for a few years taught me, it was "Be Prepared" And when you're prepared, always have the best possible thing to use for said occasion :))
If there's one thing being in the Boyscouts for a few years taught me, it was "Be Prepared" And when you're prepared, always have the best possible thing to use for said occasion :))
QFT!
If there's one thing being in the Boyscouts for a few years taught me, it was "Be Prepared" And when you're prepared, always have the best possible thing to use for said occasion :))
QFT!
What is this QFT?
If there's one thing being in the Boyscouts for a few years taught me, it was "Be Prepared" And when you're prepared, always have the best possible thing to use for said occasion :))
QFT!
What is this QFT?
Quoted For Truth. :D
I'm having a problem desoldering Cherry MX plate mount switches. It seems that when they soldered the board (Poker 2), the solder went very high up on the pins. I'm using the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb now and it can't seem to melt the solder high up on the pins. Also, it takes quite a bit of force to push the desoldered switches out. Is this normal?
I'm having a problem desoldering Cherry MX plate mount switches. It seems that when they soldered the board (Poker 2), the solder went very high up on the pins. I'm using the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb now and it can't seem to melt the solder high up on the pins. Also, it takes quite a bit of force to push the desoldered switches out. Is this normal?
Is your iron hot enough to melt Pb-free solder?
I'm having a problem desoldering Cherry MX plate mount switches. It seems that when they soldered the board (Poker 2), the solder went very high up on the pins. I'm using the Radio Shack desoldering iron with bulb now and it can't seem to melt the solder high up on the pins. Also, it takes quite a bit of force to push the desoldered switches out. Is this normal?
Is your iron hot enough to melt Pb-free solder?
Yes.
Also, I just bought a Hakko 808 kit from eBay. I hope it works :P
I'm on the lookout for a cheap station, and i can't get my hands on the recommended ones. I did some digging and found some, but i don't know if they're any good. Do anyone know something about this (http://www.conradelektronik.dk/KOMPAKT-LODDESTATION-BASETECHZD-99---48-W.htm?websale7=conrad-dk&pi=588415&Ctx={ver%2F7%2Fver}{st%2F3ec%2Fst}{cmd%2F0%2Fcmd}{m%2Fwebsale%2Fm}{s%2Fconrad-dk%2Fs}{l%2F02-aa%2Fl}{sf%2F%3Cs1%3Eloddestation%3C%2Fs1%3E%2Fsf}{p1%2F57533aec61131da5cd241d7dccbf1c7d%2Fp1}{md5%2Fbc43e768e9fb095f9e003029b1535cc6%2Fmd5}) and this (http://www.conradelektronik.dk/BASETECH-KOMPAKT-LODDESTATIONJLT-13-230-V%2fAC-EFFEKT-40-W-TEMPERATUROMR%c5DE-150---420-%b0C.htm?websale7=conrad-dk&pi=588437&Ctx=%7Bver%2F7%2Fver%7D%7Bst%2F3ec%2Fst%7D%7Bcmd%2F0%2Fcmd%7D%7Bm%2Fwebsale%2Fm%7D%7Bs%2Fconrad-dk%2Fs%7D%7Bl%2F02-aa%2Fl%7D%7Bsf%2F%3Cs1%3Eloddestation%3C%2Fs1%3E%2Fsf%7D%7Bp1%2F57533aec61131da5cd241d7dccbf1c7d%2Fp1%7D%7Bmd5%2Fbc43e768e9fb095f9e003029b1535cc6%2Fmd5%7D) station?
They look like WLC-100 clones, I'd recommend taking a look at this (http://www.biltema.dk/da/Vaerktoj/Svejsning-og-lodning/Loddevarktoj/Loddestation-19727/). It's the one I have, I haven't used it all that much but it's been brilliant so far, and I have a friend who does a bunch of small electronics soldering with his. Bit more pricey than the ones you linked, but worth it I'd say.
what name of this tool, it seems for desolderingShow Image(http://www.lowpoly.com/keyboard/m0110/m0110_060.jpg)
That owned lowpoly
what name of this tool, it seems for desolderingShow Image(http://www.lowpoly.com/keyboard/m0110/m0110_060.jpg)
That owned lowpoly
Gonna get into soldering soon :) just need to save for a while to be able to get the stuff I need to solder properly :)
Gonna get into soldering soon :) just need to save for a while to be able to get the stuff I need to solder properly :)Practice on some old electronic stuff (everybody's got some) that you wont worry about ruining. Watch some how to videos, WFD has some good ones. Good tools help but developing you skills is most important, and that takes practice.
Gonna get into soldering soon :) just need to save for a while to be able to get the stuff I need to solder properly :)Practice on some old electronic stuff (everybody's got some) that you wont worry about ruining. Watch some how to videos, WFD has some good ones. Good tools help but developing you skills is most important, and that takes practice.
what name of this tool, it seems for desolderingShow Image(http://www.atslab.com/images/calibrations/slideshow-img-on-class-pages/calibration-hand-tools.jpg)
:))
I've watched his part 1 and 2 on soldering, its quite helpful :)Gonna get into soldering soon :) just need to save for a while to be able to get the stuff I need to solder properly :)Practice on some old electronic stuff (everybody's got some) that you wont worry about ruining. Watch some how to videos, WFD has some good ones. Good tools help but developing you skills is most important, and that takes practice.
I found the EEVBlog videos to be incredibly helpful for learning the basics of soldering, although his videos are aimed at aspiring engineers so just keep in mind that you can get away with cheaper soldering gear for basic soldering.
And if you learn how to solder well with a cheap iron, imagine how much easier it will be when you get proper equipment! :D
And if you learn how to solder well with a cheap iron, imagine how much easier it will be when you get proper equipment! :D
I know a bunch of labour guys working at my uncle's electronics factory and they all use $3 cheap irons, and they use it like pros, I can only imagine what they would do with proper equipment, wield it like a sword.
And if you learn how to solder well with a cheap iron, imagine how much easier it will be when you get proper equipment! :D
I know a bunch of labour guys working at my uncle's electronics factory and they all use $3 cheap irons, and they use it like pros, I can only imagine what they would do with proper equipment, wield it like a sword.
They'd break it. :)
what name of this tool, it seems for desoldering:)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :))Show Image(http://www.atslab.com/images/calibrations/slideshow-img-on-class-pages/calibration-hand-tools.jpg)
:))
what name of this tool, it seems for desolderingShow Image(http://www.atslab.com/images/calibrations/slideshow-img-on-class-pages/calibration-hand-tools.jpg)
:))
what name of this tool, it seems for desolderingShow Image(http://www.atslab.com/images/calibrations/slideshow-img-on-class-pages/calibration-hand-tools.jpg)
:))
That's what you use to pop the switches out of the plate. ;)
How do you apply flux to PCB pad? With syringe, brush or pen? Post pic of your equipment and your experience!i use a small luer lock squeeze bottle with a 27ga needle. even then, if i just heat up the needle a little with the iron, the flux will flow to the point where i just kind of direct the flow and it covers everything i point the needle at. this is with MG Chem rosin flux. I buy big bulk bottles of the stuff and then fill my applicator bottle with the needle. this is also for thru-hole components. i think a fine brush or just plain old solder paste would be better if i were doing smt
I had used this brush with risk of spill out of bottle flux, but I'm happy with BON pen now :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VtHnxV9l.jpg)
Does anyone know how to fix the pad?
Got the Hakko 808 desoldering gun. It made short work of everything. Still had to press a bit to get the switches to pop out though, but nothing was too stubborn. It did however lift a pad off the board :C , but at least it was a double sided board.
Does anyone know how to fix the pad?
i use a small luer lock squeeze bottle with a 27ga needle. even then, if i just heat up the needle a little with the iron, the flux will flow to the point where i just kind of direct the flow and it covers everything i point the needle at. this is with MG Chem rosin flux. I buy big bulk bottles of the stuff and then fill my applicator bottle with the needle. this is also for thru-hole components. i think a fine brush or just plain old solder paste would be better if i were doing smt
Below is a closeup shot of the pad that I pulled off of my Poker. The keys that are affected are the - [ and '
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/9570448155_77b9350598_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/compactkey/9570448155/)
yes.
if you still doubt yourself you can plug the keyboard in and test it with a paperclip or something as a bridge.
yes.
if you still doubt yourself you can plug the keyboard in and test it with a paperclip or something as a bridge.
Thanks gnubag.
So I'm guessing I need to solder a wire to the respective pin on each switch. Or at least to the pin on the missing pad and then I could solder the wire to the pad on the undamaged switch?
yah isn't that an unnecessary pad?
Poker Mod Resource
==================
2013/01/02
Key Matrix pins
---------------
These key events are observed with xev command on Xorg/Linux.
PCB says "Fn Keyboard Rev 1.2". Column pins are active low and Row pins are input with pull-up.
R\C|7 8 9 10 15 16 23 24 25 26 27 28 36
---+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 |z x c v m , . (P6) Fn (9) (8) (?) RCtrl
4 |(*1) (*2) (*3) b n (X) App (P7) (1) (PgUp) / (RAlt) (4)
5 |` (F1) (F2) 5 6 = (F8) (P4) (6) (PgDn) - (?) LCtrl
6 |1 2 3 4 7 8 9 (Left) (X) (X) 0 (*4) (F5)
43 |q w e r u i o (Right) (X) (5) p (SclLk) (Pause)
44 |Tab (CapLk) (F3) t y ] (F7) LShift (3) LWin [ (?) (7)
45 |a s d f j k l RShift Rwin (4) ; (?) (6)
46 |(Esc) (,) (F4) g h (F6) (X) (Down) (2) (0) ' LAlt (5)
( ): not real keys
(X): no key event
(?): unclear(media key?)
*1: Muhenkan
*2: Henkan-Mode
*3: Hiragana-katakana
*4: ScreenShot event?
LED pins and resistors
----------------------
Esc: 13(active low), R15(1.5KOhm)
CapsLock: 17(active low), R8(1.5KOhm)
Spc, Arrows: 14(active low), R13(1.5KOhm) for 4 LEDs
DIP switche pins
----------------
Turning switch on makes line pull down to ground.
SW1: 47(input with pull-up)
SW2: 30(input with pull-up)
SW3: 1(input with pull-up)
SW4: 2(input with pull-up)
pic of back of board tehre?yah isn't that an unnecessary pad?
You tell me.
Those three keys don't work and that's the only thing I've seen that could be causing it. Diodes check out, switches are good. :-\
pic of back of board tehre?
pic of back of board tehre?
It seems there is bad connection between 0 and - key on mashby's Poker. It should be patched with short wire there.
EDIT: I was confused and missed context of conversation. Ignore me.
SW99 pad was clearly damaged and lost conection between SW99(-) and SW113(0). I missed completely.
BTW, does anyone in the MN area have a hakko 888 I could borrow for a day or two so I could try it out before buying? :)
OHBOYOHBOYOHBOYBTW, does anyone in the MN area have a hakko 888 I could borrow for a day or two so I could try it out before buying? :)
Rarar: I will be in mpls is a week and I will have a 888D. PM me if you're interested in trying it. :D
yah i see it now. that's a completely ridiculous design. but ok whatever. i would actually dig into the top layer to expose some copper and then use either a gigantic glob of solder or some conductive epoxy to bridge between the pin/pad that still exists and the trace that should just be attached to it with a via.
HOFF, MAN OF MYSTERY has your back broOHBOYOHBOYOHBOYBTW, does anyone in the MN area have a hakko 888 I could borrow for a day or two so I could try it out before buying? :)
Rarar: I will be in mpls is a week and I will have a 888D. PM me if you're interested in trying it. :D
I would have tried buying it from Ebay already if it weren't for the shipping fees which cost roughly the same as the item. That and the possibility that the customs fee is larger than normal. It is still about half the price of the only source I have found locally, EVEN WITH CROSS-POND SHIPPING AND 25% CUSTOMS FEE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT. I find this unreasonable- All my hopes currently go to Germany as they usually keep their **** together.
Grrr, I should have bought bulk last time mumble muble /grudge
Holy crap you guys. Hakko 808 desoldering gun has changed my life. Seriously, this thing is absolutely amazing...desolder pads in literally 2 seconds, super clean and smooth. Wow. I'm so happy right now.
Holy crap you guys. Hakko 808 desoldering gun has changed my life. Seriously, this thing is absolutely amazing...desolder pads in literally 2 seconds, super clean and smooth. Wow. I'm so happy right now.
Same, though I ran out of things to desolder. :c
Or you can rent those out :D
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a soldering gun / station for my phantom keyboard. I know that almost everyone suggests Weller WLC100, but it is not as easy to find in the UK.
I just found this one: DURATOOL 1296771 Soldering Station (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1737234) + some goodies.
What are your thoughts on this one? Is it a good alternative to Weller WLC100? They look quite similar to me in terms of specs, but since this is my first buy I thought I should ask your opinion.
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a soldering gun / station for my phantom keyboard. I know that almost everyone suggests Weller WLC100, but it is not as easy to find in the UK.
I just found this one: DURATOOL 1296771 Soldering Station (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1737234) + some goodies.
What are your thoughts on this one? Is it a good alternative to Weller WLC100? They look quite similar to me in terms of specs, but since this is my first buy I thought I should ask your opinion.
Not many people actually recommend the Weller WLC-100. The Weller WES(D)-51 is a nice tool, and for the people who already own a WLC-100 that is fine - I'm not knocking your selection, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone looking to purchase a new station.
I know after shipping and VAT, this will be more expensive, but I would recommend this Hakko FX-888D (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171115482359), which is about the same price.
Or you could look for a Yihua 936 from China, like this one (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300921032126).
Maybe you can find a used Hakko 936 somewhere near you? Also, Aoyue 936/937 are worth checking into.
Does the wattage of a soldering iron matter?
go with the D. the D is calibratable and has a more accurate temperature regulator. you will not be pushing the buttons enough for their construction to matter.thanks! I will go with the 888D. :D and it is cheaper than the 888
I use chisel tip since it lets me get more contact area on what I'm soldering, though I'd imagine conical would allow me to solder very small things more easily.if it compare to screwdriver tip, which one heat up the object faster?(switch, diode, something like that)
I use chisel tip since it lets me get more contact area on what I'm soldering, though I'd imagine conical would allow me to solder very small things more easily.if it compare to screwdriver tip, which one heat up the object faster?(switch, diode, something like that)
Alright I'm thinking of getting a Hakko 888 soldering kit. What tips should I get with it? I'll buy everything from amazon btw.
I use the d24 (2,4 mm chisel) for most trough-hole stuff...
More contact area than the d16 (better heat transfer) but not too big (like the d32).
I also think you should watch some videos, visual learning really is the way to go here!
Anyway, if you are really looking for a quick simple writeup, here is what I do...
- For switch or LED soldering I use a 2,4mm chisel tip
- Also I use leaded rosin core solder with 1mm diameter
- Make sure components sit flush against the PCB and pins sit right
- Set the temperature of the station to 300-350 degree Celsius and wait for heatup
- Make sure your solder tip is clean, if not clean it (repeat that periodically in the process)
- Put the tip in between pad and pin and feed a small amount of solder in the gap between tip an pin for better heat transfer
- Feed solder from the other side into the gap between pin and pad (enough that you get a solid cone shape bonding) and remove tip
- The two steps above should be done fast and finished when the molten solder completely stops smoking (then the flux is used up)
- Inspect the solder spots... You want a shiny uninterrupted cone shape which contacts the whole pad, best use a magnifying glass for that
- If there seems to be something wrong with the spot, desolder -> clean -> redo, or apply some flux (you can get it seperately) and let the spot reflow by heating it up again
also it deserves mentioning again: BUY ONE OF THESE:
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multipower-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378643068&sr=8-1&keywords=magnifying+visor
there are two more tips i keep around for special usage: first, the wedge tip that is flat on one side and rounded on the other (basically like a half chisel). these are slightly better for smd wipe soldering than chisels. second, i keep a long pointy tip around when literally nothing else will fit into the space around the joint. but 99% of the tip i have either an 8mm, 16mm, 24mm, or 32mm hakko chisel on (the t18-dxx where xx is the width of the chisel surface).
those would be GIGANTIC chisels.
there are two more tips i keep around for special usage: first, the wedge tip that is flat on one side and rounded on the other (basically like a half chisel). these are slightly better for smd wipe soldering than chisels. second, i keep a long pointy tip around when literally nothing else will fit into the space around the joint. but 99% of the tip i have either an 8mm, 16mm, 24mm, or 32mm hakko chisel on (the t18-dxx where xx is the width of the chisel surface).
Just in case anyone reads that in the future and are confused, he meant 0.8mm; 1.6mm; 2.4mm and 3.2mm.
there are two more tips i keep around for special usage: first, the wedge tip that is flat on one side and rounded on the other (basically like a half chisel). these are slightly better for smd wipe soldering than chisels. second, i keep a long pointy tip around when literally nothing else will fit into the space around the joint. but 99% of the tip i have either an 8mm, 16mm, 24mm, or 32mm hakko chisel on (the t18-dxx where xx is the width of the chisel surface).
Just in case anyone reads that in the future and are confused, he meant 0.8mm; 1.6mm; 2.4mm and 3.2mm.
My mental image of kawa wielding a 32mm soldering tip like a sword is now ruined :(
if it helps any, the welder cathode and anode at 32mm diameter copper chromium so i'm still going to do that, just at 1100C and not 350C ;)
i would take a picture but i can't find them (seriously) on my bench right now
Chisel tips make better contact with the solder pads on the PCB, which heats them up faster. Soldering small stuff is more about adding a small enough amount of solder than anything else. The solder flows where it is supposed to go anyway. Chisel tips also usually have a pretty pointy corner if you want something smaller. I am able to do most tasks with my 2mm chisel tip, but my most used one is a 1.2mm chisel tip. No matter how small the tip is it's always an improvement if it is chisel shaped rather than with a rounded conical shape.
Chisel tips are different though. They should have a sharp straight edge, and flat sides. Like this
(Attachment Link)
not like this
(Attachment Link)
You want to get into that corner as far as possible
(Attachment Link)
Chisel tips make better contact with the solder pads on the PCB, which heats them up faster. Soldering small stuff is more about adding a small enough amount of solder than anything else. The solder flows where it is supposed to go anyway. Chisel tips also usually have a pretty pointy corner if you want something smaller. I am able to do most tasks with my 2mm chisel tip, but my most used one is a 1.2mm chisel tip. No matter how small the tip is it's always an improvement if it is chisel shaped rather than with a rounded conical shape.
Chisel tips are different though. They should have a sharp straight edge, and flat sides. Like this
(Attachment Link)
not like this
(Attachment Link)
You want to get into that corner as far as possible
(Attachment Link)
why not the second one?
I use petrol and find it cleans much better than 99% IPA.
i use a branded flux remover. it's either made by mg chem or chemtronics, but it's frickin effective. it's basically every organic solvent at once. they skip the solvents that will destroy the pcb itself, but that's it.When I ran out of flux remover I tried some R/C car Nitro cleaner and it worked better than the MG chemicals stuff I normally use. I may use this stuff from now on.
I use petrol and find it cleans much better than 99% IPA.
As in gasoline? Phew, I don't think I could stand the smell.
I use petrol and find it cleans much better than 99% IPA.
I use petrol and find it cleans much better than 99% IPA.
But doesn't it leave residue by itself (in difference to IPA which fully evaporates, which is the reason they use it for optic equipment I guess)?
why not the second one?
I usually cheat a little when soldering through hole. I start of by melting the solder wire against the iron to get the heat transfer going. After that I continue feeding the solder directly onto the contact surfaces.
e) Place the soldering iron tip on the connection at the point of maximum thermal mass.
f) Create a heat (solder) bridge by applying flux-cored solder to the junction of the pad, the lead, and the
iron tip (Figure 7-33).
i have a lb of solder that i can divvy up right now as a test to see how people like NOS vs old stock kester 44
i have a lb of solder that i can divvy up right now as a test to see how people like NOS vs old stock kester 44
I'll be building a handwired keyboard...is that a good test subject? Or are you looking for people doing PCB stuff?
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
^this...
How much would it cost to send one to Canada? :rolleyes:
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
Fry's does online ordering/shipping.
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
Fry's does online ordering/shipping.
Shipping: Available In-Store Only :(
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
Fry's does online ordering/shipping.
Shipping: Available In-Store Only :(
Where you live?
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
Fry's does online ordering/shipping.
Shipping: Available In-Store Only :(
Where you live?
middle of nowhere between st louis, chicago, nashville and indianopolis :p
you have my address ;) ccng haha
Frys has the Hakko 888D on sale this week for $69.99 which is a good deal if you have a Frys near you. I have the older 888 and its a great solder station for the price range.
That's a really good deal. Too bad I've never even seen a fry's store ::)
Fry's does online ordering/shipping.
Shipping: Available In-Store Only :(
Where you live?
middle of nowhere between st louis, chicago, nashville and indianopolis :p
you have my address ;) ccng haha
Doesn't mean I memorized it
Make it worth my while to get one and mail it to you.
Hey guys, I'm looking to get a soldering iron as I may do some DIY boards in the future. The only concern I have is that I don't know how much soldering I will be doing in the future, so I'm unsure on whether or not I should spend a lot of money on an iron just to have it laying around doing nothing. How good are the budget irons? I noticed that the Yihua 936 here (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24790) is basically a clone of the Hakko 936, but the price of $15.34 has me pretty skeptical. Do you think it would be worth it to go for something like the Hakko FX-888D (I found it online at a Canadian retailer for $110 shipped), or should I go for something cheaper?I have the Yihua. Nothing special, but it does the job quite well. Far better than anything with a price anywhere near $20.
Hey guys, I'm looking to get a soldering iron as I may do some DIY boards in the future. The only concern I have is that I don't know how much soldering I will be doing in the future, so I'm unsure on whether or not I should spend a lot of money on an iron just to have it laying around doing nothing. How good are the budget irons? I noticed that the Yihua 936 here (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24790) is basically a clone of the Hakko 936, but the price of $15.34 has me pretty skeptical. Do you think it would be worth it to go for something like the Hakko FX-888D (I found it online at a Canadian retailer for $110 shipped), or should I go for something cheaper?I have the Yihua. Nothing special, but it does the job quite well. Far better than anything with a price anywhere near $20.
The Yihua 936 will run me about ~$45. Would it be worth it to go up $65 and get a Hakko FX-888D, or should I use that saved money for things like a fume extractor, solder, extra tips, etc.? For ~$45 would there be any better alternatives, or is the Yihua 936 the king of budget?Hey guys, I'm looking to get a soldering iron as I may do some DIY boards in the future. The only concern I have is that I don't know how much soldering I will be doing in the future, so I'm unsure on whether or not I should spend a lot of money on an iron just to have it laying around doing nothing. How good are the budget irons? I noticed that the Yihua 936 here (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24790) is basically a clone of the Hakko 936, but the price of $15.34 has me pretty skeptical. Do you think it would be worth it to go for something like the Hakko FX-888D (I found it online at a Canadian retailer for $110 shipped), or should I go for something cheaper?I have the Yihua. Nothing special, but it does the job quite well. Far better than anything with a price anywhere near $20.
I don't own one, but I've used one a few times. It's quite solidly built, and heats up fast. I recommend it if you're on a budget.
The Yihua 936 will run me about ~$45. Would it be worth it to go up $65 and get a Hakko FX-888D, or should I use that saved money for things like a fume extractor, solder, extra tips, etc.? For ~$45 would there be any better alternatives, or is the Yihua 936 the king of budget?Hey guys, I'm looking to get a soldering iron as I may do some DIY boards in the future. The only concern I have is that I don't know how much soldering I will be doing in the future, so I'm unsure on whether or not I should spend a lot of money on an iron just to have it laying around doing nothing. How good are the budget irons? I noticed that the Yihua 936 here (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24790) is basically a clone of the Hakko 936, but the price of $15.34 has me pretty skeptical. Do you think it would be worth it to go for something like the Hakko FX-888D (I found it online at a Canadian retailer for $110 shipped), or should I go for something cheaper?I have the Yihua. Nothing special, but it does the job quite well. Far better than anything with a price anywhere near $20.
I don't own one, but I've used one a few times. It's quite solidly built, and heats up fast. I recommend it if you're on a budget.
So I am in the process of building a custom detachable cable for a keyboard project and have a question. On a standard USB cable does the wire wrap for shielding really need to be soldered to the shroud of the plug for the USB to function? Or does it even need to be soldered to the shroud at all?
If it does any suggestions if the shielding on mine won't take solder? I can get it hot enough to melt the solder on the wire itself but it just beads up and runs off with none sticking to the wire.
Melvang
The Yihua 936 will run me about ~$45. Would it be worth it to go up $65 and get a Hakko FX-888D, or should I use that saved money for things like a fume extractor, solder, extra tips, etc.? For ~$45 would there be any better alternatives, or is the Yihua 936 the king of budget?Hey guys, I'm looking to get a soldering iron as I may do some DIY boards in the future. The only concern I have is that I don't know how much soldering I will be doing in the future, so I'm unsure on whether or not I should spend a lot of money on an iron just to have it laying around doing nothing. How good are the budget irons? I noticed that the Yihua 936 here (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24790) is basically a clone of the Hakko 936, but the price of $15.34 has me pretty skeptical. Do you think it would be worth it to go for something like the Hakko FX-888D (I found it online at a Canadian retailer for $110 shipped), or should I go for something cheaper?I have the Yihua. Nothing special, but it does the job quite well. Far better than anything with a price anywhere near $20.
I don't own one, but I've used one a few times. It's quite solidly built, and heats up fast. I recommend it if you're on a budget.
another thing you find when you're constantly breaking tools is that THEY COST YOU EXTRA TIME. you have a tool and a job. you need to accomplish the job, so you use the tool, it breaks you swear, YOUR JOB IS STILL NOT DONE. eff! buy another cheap one and the cycle repeats. buy tools to last.
another thing you find when you're constantly breaking tools is that THEY COST YOU EXTRA TIME. you have a tool and a job. you need to accomplish the job, so you use the tool, it breaks you swear, YOUR JOB IS STILL NOT DONE. eff! buy another cheap one and the cycle repeats. buy tools to last.
Not only that, but some tools which break while you use them can destroy the object you are working on.
For my money, the Yihua 936 is the best soldering station you can get for $50 or less. Above that, you might as well spring for the Hakko FX-888D ($90), or a used Hakko 936 ($75).
The Yihua is definitely a "deal" at $15 plus shipping (also $15), so the total shipped to the US has always been $30. I still think it's far better than the Weller WLC-100, which typically runs $50.
absolutely. one reason why i don't use big machines ;) that one i'm leaving to you melvang ;)another thing you find when you're constantly breaking tools is that THEY COST YOU EXTRA TIME. you have a tool and a job. you need to accomplish the job, so you use the tool, it breaks you swear, YOUR JOB IS STILL NOT DONE. eff! buy another cheap one and the cycle repeats. buy tools to last.
Not only that, but some tools which break while you use them can destroy the object you are working on.
on top of the possibility of damage to yourself. I don't care what you are doing, no job is worth a finger.
yah, the yihua's are surprisingly good because they clones the hakko 936/937 (a good design) and then spent the next 15 years refining their clone. that said, hakko completely changed the game with the 888d. it's a sea change in affordable hobbyist stations. hell, look at the specs. its temp regulator is more accurate than the one in the 951, 203, 204, etc.For my money, the Yihua 936 is the best soldering station you can get for $50 or less. Above that, you might as well spring for the Hakko FX-888D ($90), or a used Hakko 936 ($75).
The Yihua is definitely a "deal" at $15 plus shipping (also $15), so the total shipped to the US has always been $30. I still think it's far better than the Weller WLC-100, which typically runs $50.
I'm very pleased so far with the Aoyue 937+ I bought via Amazon; $61 shipped. Digital heat settings, heats up fast, hold temperature well, comes with spare element, and takes the same tips as Hakko.
absolutely. one reason why i don't use big machines ;) that one i'm leaving to you melvang ;)another thing you find when you're constantly breaking tools is that THEY COST YOU EXTRA TIME. you have a tool and a job. you need to accomplish the job, so you use the tool, it breaks you swear, YOUR JOB IS STILL NOT DONE. eff! buy another cheap one and the cycle repeats. buy tools to last.
Not only that, but some tools which break while you use them can destroy the object you are working on.
on top of the possibility of damage to yourself. I don't care what you are doing, no job is worth a finger.
absolutely. one reason why i don't use big machines ;) that one i'm leaving to you melvang ;)another thing you find when you're constantly breaking tools is that THEY COST YOU EXTRA TIME. you have a tool and a job. you need to accomplish the job, so you use the tool, it breaks you swear, YOUR JOB IS STILL NOT DONE. eff! buy another cheap one and the cycle repeats. buy tools to last.
Not only that, but some tools which break while you use them can destroy the object you are working on.
on top of the possibility of damage to yourself. I don't care what you are doing, no job is worth a finger.
Don't worry mkawa, stay in the truck. I think the worst tool we have on the job as far as the possibility of losing a finger or that sort of thing is the Hy-torq. Basically is is a hydraulic powered ratchet that depending on the setup can be capable of exerting over 25,000 lb/ft of torque on a nut. Runs at up to 10,000 psi on mineral oil. The biggest danger with these is the 10kpsi. Even aside from the fact that fluid at that pressure can literally cut you in half or take your hand off at the wrist but with that oil if it gets injected into you for whatever reason it WILL cause gangrene. Not a "can" or a "possibility" it is a WILL and anywhere that oil has come into contact with internal tissue has to be flayed open and left open until completely healed.
sorry for getting off topic but the point is still the same. Cheap tools are not worth the risk of damage to any of the following, the tool itself, the equipment you are working on, or yourself.
that makes me equally sad. i hope he comes back and reads the whole thread.
if not, we have the keepers to summarize this kind of information now. the keepers is something i've been trying to get going for 6 months now, and i'm overjoyed that we now have a team that can collect and curate this kind fo information.
that makes me equally sad. i hope he comes back and reads the whole thread.I'll make it my personal mission to make sure every 15 year old in the world knows that they can solder with the cheapest iron on the market. After all, that's what i did last year (coincidentally when i was 15)
if not, we have the keepers to summarize this kind of information now. the keepers is something i've been trying to get going for 6 months now, and i'm overjoyed that we now have a team that can collect and curate this kind fo information.
Right now, my main concern with shelling out a reasonable amount of money on the FX-888D, is that I am unsure how much soldering I'll be doing in the future. From what I can see, I MAY do an ErgoDox, and I MAY do a Phantom, but neither are for sure. I might just do one and then never solder another thing in my life. That's really the only reason I'm considering buying a Yihua.Just get the yihua if you're having to think this hard about it. The hakko is amazing, it's a gamechanger. But for this kind of stuff you don't need a gamechanger. You just need a good, solid soldering station - the yihua is that, and at a very good price too.
that makes me equally sad. i hope he comes back and reads the whole thread.
if not, we have the keepers to summarize this kind of information now. the keepers is something i've been trying to get going for 6 months now, and i'm overjoyed that we now have a team that can collect and curate this kind fo information.
Woah, I didn't mean to rustle any jimmies.
I just saw a kid give up on trying soldering somewhere yesterday because someone told him you can't do it with cheap stuff. That made me sad. :(
Woah, I didn't mean to rustle any jimmies.
I just saw a kid give up on trying soldering somewhere yesterday because someone told him you can't do it with cheap stuff. That made me sad. :(
I am using a Weller WLC100 and it works great for basic assembly.
I'll make it my personal mission to make sure every 15 year old in the world knows that they can solder with the cheapest iron on the market. After all, that's what i did last year (coincidentally when i was 15)
Just get the yihua if you're having to think this hard about it. The hakko is amazing, it's a gamechanger. But for this kind of stuff you don't need a gamechanger. You just need a good, solid soldering station - the yihua is that, and at a very good price too.
another thing you find when you're constantly breaking tools is that THEY COST YOU EXTRA TIME. you have a tool and a job. you need to accomplish the job, so you use the tool, it breaks you swear, YOUR JOB IS STILL NOT DONE. eff! buy another cheap one and the cycle repeats. buy tools to last.
Woah, I didn't mean to rustle any jimmies.
I just saw a kid give up on trying soldering somewhere yesterday because someone told him you can't do it with cheap stuff. That made me sad. :(
I am using a Weller WLC100 and it works great for basic assembly.
everyone i point to this forum figures it out pretty quickly. i think it's best left unsaid :))that makes me equally sad. i hope he comes back and reads the whole thread.
if not, we have the keepers to summarize this kind of information now. the keepers is something i've been trying to get going for 6 months now, and i'm overjoyed that we now have a team that can collect and curate this kind fo information.
Can we just go ahead and change that GH slogan to "We're all insane."? :))
everyone i point to this forum figures it out pretty quickly. i think it's best left unsaid :))that makes me equally sad. i hope he comes back and reads the whole thread.
if not, we have the keepers to summarize this kind of information now. the keepers is something i've been trying to get going for 6 months now, and i'm overjoyed that we now have a team that can collect and curate this kind fo information.
Can we just go ahead and change that GH slogan to "We're all insane."? :))
I really hope this thread is not what discouraged someone from attempting their project, even if all they could afford was a $15 RadioShack soldering pencil.
...
The thing is, for $30 shipped, the Yihua is far and away better than trying to learn to solder with only a pencil iron.
I really hope this thread is not what discouraged someone from attempting their project, even if all they could afford was a $15 RadioShack soldering pencil.
...
The thing is, for $30 shipped, the Yihua is far and away better than trying to learn to solder with only a pencil iron.
It wasn't this thread, but it was people sounding like people in this thread.
Also its $45 shipped for me...which sucks. :(
But don't buy one, pixel5. You should have a gift from me arriving to your address in a couple weeks. It usually takes that long for them to get it packed and shipped, then via ground to your door. Anyway, it's the least I can do for a fellow TTU alum.
But don't buy one, pixel5. You should have a gift from me arriving to your address in a couple weeks. It usually takes that long for them to get it packed and shipped, then via ground to your door. Anyway, it's the least I can do for a fellow TTU alum.
/me grumbles that he had to pay jdcarpe for his 936 and all he got was a messed up KMAC
:P
Well, a PEBKAC error is a little better than an ID-10/T error.
A+ JD
get the yihua locally. since it's very much made in china to be exported everywhere hakko tries to market anything, they're pretty much everywhere.
For anyone debating on spending the $10 or so for getting a slightly smaller tip. I went from a stock 3.2mm tip on my weller to a 1.6mm tip and it feels like a fine scalpel through butter compared to the 3.2 felt like doing brain surgery with a pipewrench.
A+ JD
get the yihua locally. since it's very much made in china to be exported everywhere hakko tries to market anything, they're pretty much everywhere.
I am actually having a hard time finding it anywhere except for HK and Ebay actually, let alone Canada.
:thumb:
A+ JD
get the yihua locally. since it's very much made in china to be exported everywhere hakko tries to market anything, they're pretty much everywhere.
I am actually having a hard time finding it anywhere except for HK and Ebay actually, let alone Canada.
This was the best Ebay deal I found for Canada, it beats the terrible HobbyKing shipping:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/231006695127?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
There are plenty on Taobao too, if you want to use an agent. Don't know if they are US plug though.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10329568946&ali_trackid=2:mm_29163901_0_0:1378901372_6k3_1596254088&spm=2014.21073621.1.0
Desoldering my Nixdorf PCB with a Soldapullt right now.
All I can say is.. The Soldapullt is AMAZING at this. Far, far better than the ****ty knock-off I had before.
:thumb:
I have a piston-based solder vacuum. Is it significantly better than those?http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=DS017
Desoldering my Nixdorf PCB with a Soldapullt right now.you're going to freak when you use my massively upgraded soldapullts then :))
All I can say is.. The Soldapullt is AMAZING at this. Far, far better than the ****ty knock-off I had before.
:thumb:
you're going to freak when you use my massively upgraded soldapullts then :))Lubed with krytox and using a korean spring? :))
ps, i should be talking to edsyn today. we _will_ be getting a GH edition soldapullt. the question is what form it will take :)
Desoldering my Nixdorf PCB with a Soldapullt right now.you're going to freak when you use my massively upgraded soldapullts then :))
All I can say is.. The Soldapullt is AMAZING at this. Far, far better than the ****ty knock-off I had before.
:thumb:
ps, i should be talking to edsyn today. we _will_ be getting a GH edition soldapullt. the question is what form it will take :)
stock spring, but yes, there is a fair amount of fluorine involved.Sounds great man! It's mega awesome that geekhack(geekhack ITSELF, not the community like with GBs) is starting to work with companies.
let's just say that i can hold a vacuum on my ds017 for as long as i have the patience to block the nozzle ;)
also, all that crap on the barrel about no solvents no heat? yah, that's all meaningless with my changes :)
the lube and adapters cost 2$ to ship domestically. no need to wait on those. the rest of it will cost more to ship and you may want to batch that, but if you want lube and switches please just order them now ;)
i'm less busy right now ordering-wise, and i may have to change prices AGAIN (ugh) once the storefront goes up
Hi,
To people located in Europe (Luxemburg/France/Belgium/Germany area), where do you buy your soldering products?
I can't find the HAKKO FX-888D anywhere, and the prices on amazon are just ridiculous. For example, a Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen is $8.75 on amazon.com and €45 on amazon.de or amazon.fr. Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder is $41.58 on amazon.com and £133.36 on amazon.co.uk :(
Thanks
http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-HAKKO-FX-888D-ESD-Safe-Soldering-Station-Soldering-Iron-/151109825604?pt=DE_Haus_Garten_Heimwerker_Elektrowerkzeuge&var=&hash=item232ed8f444
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=kester+951&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dkester%2B951%26_arr%3D1
FX-888D and listings for the Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen.
Due to legal requirements in some countries, access to this article was unfortunately locked. We have blocked your access to this article since we are obliged to restrict access to objectionable articles. It does happen that we make access lock offers, although the respective offer does not violate the law. This is due to technical limitations. We would like you to apologize for any resulting inconvenience and hope that you will find other interesting items on eBay.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-HAKKO-FX-888D-ESD-Safe-Soldering-Station-Soldering-Iron-/151109825604?pt=DE_Haus_Garten_Heimwerker_Elektrowerkzeuge&var=&hash=item232ed8f444
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=kester+951&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dkester%2B951%26_arr%3D1
FX-888D and listings for the Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen.
I'm afraid it's not that easy. Here is what I get (google translated):Quote from: amazon.deDue to legal requirements in some countries, access to this article was unfortunately locked. We have blocked your access to this article since we are obliged to restrict access to objectionable articles. It does happen that we make access lock offers, although the respective offer does not violate the law. This is due to technical limitations. We would like you to apologize for any resulting inconvenience and hope that you will find other interesting items on eBay.
Luxemburg, but I often go to Belgium.
Luxemburg, but I often go to Belgium.
http://www.benl.ebay.be/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=hakko+fx-888&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.benl.ebay.be%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dhakko%2Bfx-888%26_arr%3D1
yes?
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-FX888D-Soldering-Station-Replaces-936-12-FX888-Solder-Station-/171115482359?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d7470cf7Luxemburg, but I often go to Belgium.
http://www.benl.ebay.be/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=hakko+fx-888&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.benl.ebay.be%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dhakko%2Bfx-888%26_arr%3D1
yes?
Yes of course, but you have to add international shipping, VAT and customs taxes.
I would have to pay $91.34 + $25.18 (shipping) + $29.38 (taxes) = $145.9
What do you think about this (http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/language/EN/info/p6316_AOYUE-968A--Repairing-Hot-Air-Station-Soldering-Iron-with-Smoke-Absorber.html)? Is it as good as the Hakko recommended in this thread?
I would have to pay $91.34 + $25.18 (shipping) + $29.38 (taxes) = $145.9
What do you think about this (http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/language/EN/info/p6316_AOYUE-968A--Repairing-Hot-Air-Station-Soldering-Iron-with-Smoke-Absorber.html)? Is it as good as the Hakko recommended in this thread?
How much is it? It's recommended in this thread as well, so I assume it's pretty good. I don't have any personal experiences with it so I couldn't tell you.
I would have to pay $91.34 + $25.18 (shipping) + $29.38 (taxes) = $145.9
What do you think about this (http://shop.wiltec.info/product_info.php/language/EN/info/p6316_AOYUE-968A--Repairing-Hot-Air-Station-Soldering-Iron-with-Smoke-Absorber.html)? Is it as good as the Hakko recommended in this thread?
How much is it? It's recommended in this thread as well, so I assume it's pretty good. I don't have any personal experiences with it so I couldn't tell you.
€150.59 + €5-12 shipping, maybe a better alternative given that I'd have to pay almost the same price for the hakko.
lit is the only one who has really written extensively about the aoyue and his conclusion is that you should get a dedicated hot air, iron and whatever unit instead. he never uses anything but the iron, and it's a pretty so-so iron.
the smoke absorber is largely useless (although he did say he liked it), it doesn't really do much to absorb the smoke, it just disperses it away from you. see my DIY smoke absorber thread to see why. a reasonable absorption unit needs at least 5lbs of activated charcoal, regularly changed, and a fan that moves enough air to actually draw the smoke away from your station. you also want low velocity and maximum pressure through the actual charcoal, which needs to be granulated ionized carbon and not just "carbon impregnated filter medium". the latter is completely worthless.
I just bought a Helping hands + magnifying glass + LED light + iron holder combo on amazon. My project is getting closer and closer to takeoff. GET HYPE.
i currently have two large FRB based boxes with two different venting patterns. each large FRB holds about 10lbs of charcoal. i suspect i'll change the charcoal at about the 6-8 month mark. but i have not only solder fumes but abs vapors from the printer and solvent vapors so ymmv. activated charcoal is also washable. soaking it in warm water with a mild detergent will actually start unclogging granules, which will hold aromatic crap again once unclogged. that said, a lot of rinsing is involved, and at the price i get my charcoal at (1$/lb), i don't really care enough to wash anything.lit is the only one who has really written extensively about the aoyue and his conclusion is that you should get a dedicated hot air, iron and whatever unit instead. he never uses anything but the iron, and it's a pretty so-so iron.
the smoke absorber is largely useless (although he did say he liked it), it doesn't really do much to absorb the smoke, it just disperses it away from you. see my DIY smoke absorber thread to see why. a reasonable absorption unit needs at least 5lbs of activated charcoal, regularly changed, and a fan that moves enough air to actually draw the smoke away from your station. you also want low velocity and maximum pressure through the actual charcoal, which needs to be granulated ionized carbon and not just "carbon impregnated filter medium". the latter is completely worthless.
Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll buy the hakko then, or a Weller station if I can find an affordable one.
I had a look at your DIY smoke absorber. Really nice and easy to build. Question: how often do you replace the activated charcoal?
I just bought a Helping hands + magnifying glass + LED light + iron holder combo on amazon. My project is getting closer and closer to takeoff. GET HYPE.
yaayyay! What project is it?
Are soldering guns bad for working with keyboards? I found a Weller 8200pk and am wondering how good it would work for soldering diodes and switches. I feel like maybe 100/140W may be too high for electronic work.
[/quote
Soldering guns would be the worst thing you could use. I would not use one at all on keyboards or any electronics.
Are soldering guns bad for working with keyboards? I found a Weller 8200pk and am wondering how good it would work for soldering diodes and switches. I feel like maybe 100/140W may be too high for electronic work.Alright, guess I'll be on the lookout for a soldering iron again.
[/quote
Soldering guns would be the worst thing you could use. I would not use one at all on keyboards or any electronics.
I use soldering guns all the time for electronics. Just not things with PCBs though. Just point to point.I see, I was hoping I would be able to use it for PCB work, but doesn't seem like that's possible.
Anyone can get a FX888 from a reputable Taobao reseller. 220V-240V version.
They cost $80 before shipping + Agent fees + shipping.
Are those legit hakkos? or are they just clones?
Anyone can get a FX888 from a reputable Taobao reseller. 220V-240V version.
They cost $80 before shipping + Agent fees + shipping.
Are those legit hakkos? or are they just clones?
I just got this awesome multimeter at goodwill for $0.99. Works perfectly!Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8355692/phone/IMG_20130914_110346.jpg)
I just got this awesome multimeter at goodwill for $0.99. Works perfectly!Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8355692/phone/IMG_20130914_110346.jpg)
You got a great deal on that $3 multimeter.
Edit: StrikeEagleCC What aircraft is that in your avatar?
I'm guessing it's an F-15E Strike Eagle. And that he's a crew chief for said aircraft. :)Yup, I was. I don't turn wrenches on it anymore though. Regardless of opinions about it's usage, it's one incredible machine.
So I am trying to solder some wires onto a connector that has solder cups on the one side of things. Any suggestions for getting the wires down into the cups for a good connection?
A couple of the wires are a little large for them. Can I just split off a couple of the strands and cut so they fit down in a bit better? I do have a "helping hands" for holding the connector but I still don't have 7 hands for everything.
I'm guessing it's an F-15E Strike Eagle. And that he's a crew chief for said aircraft. :)
what i would do with this kind of connector is actually mechanically secure the wire to the cup while soldering. take an alligator clip or clip on heatsink and secure the end of the stripped bit of wire to the upper end of the solder cup. then, solder as normal with the cup and wire secured in a work holder (and as everyone knows my favorite work holders are the panavise line). once your soldering is done, as long as you didn't heat the retaining part (the clippy bit) to joint temp, it will come right off, because it's not part of hte joint.I'm guessing it's an F-15E Strike Eagle. And that he's a crew chief for said aircraft. :)Yup, I was. I don't turn wrenches on it anymore though. Regardless of opinions about it's usage, it's one incredible machine.So I am trying to solder some wires onto a connector that has solder cups on the one side of things. Any suggestions for getting the wires down into the cups for a good connection?
A couple of the wires are a little large for them. Can I just split off a couple of the strands and cut so they fit down in a bit better? I do have a "helping hands" for holding the connector but I still don't have 7 hands for everything.
Solder cups are a little tricky to begin with, but you'll soon get the hang of them. They can easily be done with 2 regular hands and your helping hands.
1. Measure, strip, and tin the end of your wire. You should strip enough of the wire so that when the wire is bottomed out in the cup, there is some clearance between the start of the insulation and the top of the cup (about one wire diameter's worth).
[attach=1]
2. Take a length of solder, fold it in half once or twice to increase it's thickness, and twist it to form a multi-strand wire. Snip a bit of this off and drop it into the solder cup.
[attach=2]
3. Then, lay your iron's chisel tip against the outside of the cup until the solder melts. While the solder is molten, insert your pre-tinned wire at an angle. in one movement, straighten the wire and force it down into the cup. Try to keep the wire in contact with the highest point of the cup wall (this only applies if you're using cups that have a milled edge).
[attach=3]
The trick to all of this is to estimate the correct amount of solder so that it fills the cup completely but does not overflow. It's better to start with too little solder, because it's easier to add more than to clean up the mess that happens when it spills over.
If your wires are too large for the cup, then ideally, you should get different wires or cups. If that is not an option, I suppose you could clip a few strands to get it to fit. Be aware however, that by doing this, you will decrease the strength of the wire below that of even the now smaller portion. In many home projects, this is not an issue, but just keep in mind that it will be more prone to failure from flexing and vibration than if you had just used a smaller wire.
what i would do with this kind of connector is actually mechanically secure the wire to the cup while soldering. take an alligator clip or clip on heatsink and secure the end of the stripped bit of wire to the upper end of the solder cup. then, solder as normal with the cup and wire secured in a work holder (and as everyone knows my favorite work holders are the panavise line). once your soldering is done, as long as you didn't heat the retaining part (the clippy bit) to joint temp, it will come right off, because it's not part of hte joint.
odd. i've never seen a solder cup before actually, so i'll take your word on it. where are these connections common?
wow, this is crazy. an entire class of joint i know nothing about. so these cups are actually supposed to hold enough solder and have enough surface area that the solder joint is both mechanical and electrical retainer? _woah_.
kester 44 RA is a completely different product from the 285 series RMA flux cored wire and i don't see 283 in the catalogue. kester flux cored solders have a shelf life of 2-3 years from date of manufacture.
The numbers are just indicative of the kind of flux in the core - make sure that you pick the right alloy as well, 60/40 or 63/37, etc. RA vs RMA is a bit debatable - generally RMA is sufficient for most applications and doesn't eat away at tips as much while leaving less residue, but RA is a bit more user friendly.RMA doesn't eat away at tips because it doesn't eat away at much at all :P. RA is much preferable for the newbie hobbyist. 7 year old RMA is going to be that much less effective.
For a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
I'm thinking you have to make it to the end to see the discount? I looked at other Hakko items, and they don't show any price increase, so the discount is probably added at the end.
I'm thinking you have to make it to the end to see the discount? I looked at other Hakko items, and they don't show any price increase, so the discount is probably added at the end.
I added it to cart, viewed cart, and the discount was shown right away. Also has the option to estimate shipping costs.
I'm thinking you have to make it to the end to see the discount? I looked at other Hakko items, and they don't show any price increase, so the discount is probably added at the end.
I added it to cart, viewed cart, and the discount was shown right away. Also has the option to estimate shipping costs.
Yep, that worked. Also, a Hakko 808 for a little over $150. Good deal?
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.
So for those with 808 experience is it worth it to get the holder? What about getting extra nozzles, valves, cleaning pins, etc?
So for those with 808 experience is it worth it to get the holder? What about getting extra nozzles, valves, cleaning pins, etc?
I wish I'd spent the money on the holder and I keep 2 - 4 nozzles at hand at all times. Also, look into something that can switch the gun off/on as it doesn't have a switch for the heater.
unless you need to do a lot of desoldering, save your money and get a (GH EDITION YAAAAA) soldapullt.
also, i may be totally alone here, but the brass tip cleaner just don't get the job does like sponges do when you're tinning.
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
Shows up as $91.35 and then like $35 shipping for me. Maybe it's because I'm in Canada, I don't know.I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
Oh gawd... This deal is so good... I wonder if they'll have this deal up for another week!!!... this or the $30 Yihua 936 :)) ;asoijg;owijg;owajgo;wjig;aoije Either way, I'll need to replace my broken one by the end of the month.
Shows up as $91.35 and then like $35 shipping for me. Maybe it's because I'm in Canada, I don't know.I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
Oh gawd... This deal is so good... I wonder if they'll have this deal up for another week!!!... this or the $30 Yihua 936 :)) ;asoijg;owijg;owajgo;wjig;aoije Either way, I'll need to replace my broken one by the end of the month.
Shows up as $91.35 and then like $35 shipping for me. Maybe it's because I'm in Canada, I don't know.I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
Oh gawd... This deal is so good... I wonder if they'll have this deal up for another week!!!... this or the $30 Yihua 936 :)) ;asoijg;owijg;owajgo;wjig;aoije Either way, I'll need to replace my broken one by the end of the month.
My wife and I have been sharing an office since we moved into this house, but I'm starting to get into soldering and the like so I'm in need of another desk, a shelf, and more room... so she has agreed to give me my own office in the house (since she doesn't use this one very often anyway). MAN CAVE INCOMING!
My wife and I have been sharing an office since we moved into this house, but I'm starting to get into soldering and the like so I'm in need of another desk, a shelf, and more room... so she has agreed to give me my own office in the house (since she doesn't use this one very often anyway). MAN CAVE INCOMING!
Be real man. Build your own desk.
There's a build in this thread for one in fact.
I really hope this thread is not what discouraged someone from attempting their project, even if all they could afford was a $15 RadioShack soldering pencil.
...
The thing is, for $30 shipped, the Yihua is far and away better than trying to learn to solder with only a pencil iron.
It wasn't this thread, but it was people sounding like people in this thread.
Also its $45 shipped for me...which sucks. :(
Hmm, I wonder if you didn't choose the USA Warehouse location at HobbyKing.com. It only showed $27.33 shipped via UPS for me.
But don't buy one, pixel5. You should have a gift from me arriving to your address in a couple weeks. It usually takes that long for them to get it packed and shipped, then via ground to your door. Anyway, it's the least I can do for a fellow TTU alum.
I really hope this thread is not what discouraged someone from attempting their project, even if all they could afford was a $15 RadioShack soldering pencil.
...
The thing is, for $30 shipped, the Yihua is far and away better than trying to learn to solder with only a pencil iron.
It wasn't this thread, but it was people sounding like people in this thread.
Also its $45 shipped for me...which sucks. :(
Hmm, I wonder if you didn't choose the USA Warehouse location at HobbyKing.com. It only showed $27.33 shipped via UPS for me.
But don't buy one, pixel5. You should have a gift from me arriving to your address in a couple weeks. It usually takes that long for them to get it packed and shipped, then via ground to your door. Anyway, it's the least I can do for a fellow TTU alum.
Dude I didn't even see this post until right now, I get to my house after work today and I see a box on my porch and i'm like ..."What?".
I start searching my Wells Fargo online account for purchases. I DONT EVEN DRINK I KNOW I DIDNT MAKE A DRUNK PURCHASE?! I started searching back through this thread and sure enough. Shows how much I pay attention. Was freaking out man.
Thanks for an awesome birthday gift, JDcarpe. You shouldn't have, but you rock.
EDIT: I look like a total jerk, it looks like I just ignored his post 8 days ago. I have the be the most oblivious person on the planet.
yep, throw the hakko tips on. the fake tips are junk!
yep, throw the hakko tips on. the fake tips are junk!
In what way are they junk? I'm not an expert on this stuff quite yet. If I need to solder before I get a new tip in, is the stock one just completely unusable?
My soldapullt was kinda hurting my palm after using it for a long time so I added some sugru. Feels much nicer now.ooooooooooh, that's nice. thinking...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jnut8yc.jpg)
yep, throw the hakko tips on. the fake tips are junk!
In what way are they junk? I'm not an expert on this stuff quite yet. If I need to solder before I get a new tip in, is the stock one just completely unusable?
I got that exact same table from Costco for $35. Works really nicely and it was a lot bigger than I expected.My wife and I have been sharing an office since we moved into this house, but I'm starting to get into soldering and the like so I'm in need of another desk, a shelf, and more room... so she has agreed to give me my own office in the house (since she doesn't use this one very often anyway). MAN CAVE INCOMING!
Be real man. Build your own desk.
There's a build in this thread for one in fact.
I was recently thinking about building my own. But i had to put mine to trash sooner than expected and decided to use my folding table from costco temporarily. Then I realised that this foldable table was exactly the same dimension as the one I wanted to build, and foldable and cheap and solid. I decided to just keep this one for my setup and buy a new one! 46$ for the "almost perfect" table is damn nice. Not the most pretty, but damn it!
(Attachment Link)
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
For the other Canadians that would have been interesting to get this soldering station but considered the shipping too much, well I contacted their support today (after I got a mail from their sales cause I had left my cart with something in it) and they should come back to me tomorrow if they find a cheaper way to send it. I will post the answer tomorrow! "crossing fingers" that they manage to find something more interesting than 35$!
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
For the other Canadians that would have been interesting to get this soldering station but considered the shipping too much, well I contacted their support today (after I got a mail from their sales cause I had left my cart with something in it) and they should come back to me tomorrow if they find a cheaper way to send it. I will post the answer tomorrow! "crossing fingers" that they manage to find something more interesting than 35$!
Just got the answer that 35$ is the cheapest option for the station.
So for those with 808 experience is it worth it to get the holder? What about getting extra nozzles, valves, cleaning pins, etc?
I wish I'd spent the money on the holder and I keep 2 - 4 nozzles at hand at all times. Also, look into something that can switch the gun off/on as it doesn't have a switch for the heater.
What holder do you recommend?
I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
For the other Canadians that would have been interesting to get this soldering station but considered the shipping too much, well I contacted their support today (after I got a mail from their sales cause I had left my cart with something in it) and they should come back to me tomorrow if they find a cheaper way to send it. I will post the answer tomorrow! "crossing fingers" that they manage to find something more interesting than 35$!
Just got the answer that 35$ is the cheapest option for the station.
Yeah, the days of cheap international shipping from the US are definitely over.
I guess the USPS has never heard of NAFTA. :P
If you are interested, I know of a place selling the FX888D for $110 shipped inside Canada.I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
For the other Canadians that would have been interesting to get this soldering station but considered the shipping too much, well I contacted their support today (after I got a mail from their sales cause I had left my cart with something in it) and they should come back to me tomorrow if they find a cheaper way to send it. I will post the answer tomorrow! "crossing fingers" that they manage to find something more interesting than 35$!
Just got the answer that 35$ is the cheapest option for the station.
Yeah, the days of cheap international shipping from the US are definitely over.
I guess the USPS has never heard of NAFTA. :P
Yea, sadly, they were over just by the time I discovered buying online...
On another note, The B+D sales "automatically" sent me a mail giving me a 5% rebate because my order was still in the cart and I had not bought it yet. I might pull the trigger even with 35$ shipping since anyway it's still the best option to get one. If one of you is interested in one, try to put it in your cart and leave it there for a few days! :cool:
If you are interested, I know of a place selling the FX888D for $110 shipped inside Canada.I don't know if this belongs here on in Great Finds, but this is specific to soldering, so I'll post it here.
From B+D Enterprises:QuoteFor a limited time, we're giving away a free Hakko Waterless Tip Cleaner (item 599B - retail value $9.47) with every order over $25. Don't forget, we're also having a sale of 15% off all Hakko items for a few more days as well. Well, isn't that a coincidence?
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station (http://www.bdent.com/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
$77.65 plus shipping for a Hakko FX-888D and a 599B waterless tip cleaner. I've purchased from B+D before, and I can recommend them without reservation.Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/x/fx888d_bdentinc.jpg)Show Image(http://www.bdent.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/c/screen_shot_2013-08-08_at_1.35.08_pm.png)
For the other Canadians that would have been interesting to get this soldering station but considered the shipping too much, well I contacted their support today (after I got a mail from their sales cause I had left my cart with something in it) and they should come back to me tomorrow if they find a cheaper way to send it. I will post the answer tomorrow! "crossing fingers" that they manage to find something more interesting than 35$!
Just got the answer that 35$ is the cheapest option for the station.
Yeah, the days of cheap international shipping from the US are definitely over.
I guess the USPS has never heard of NAFTA. :P
Yea, sadly, they were over just by the time I discovered buying online...
On another note, The B+D sales "automatically" sent me a mail giving me a 5% rebate because my order was still in the cart and I had not bought it yet. I might pull the trigger even with 35$ shipping since anyway it's still the best option to get one. If one of you is interested in one, try to put it in your cart and leave it there for a few days! :cool:
I was curious about a rough cost/benefit analysis for the Hakko desoldering gun.
a. Let's say that the going rate to desolder a full-size keyboard is around $20 - excluding shipping costs. [I'm basing this on GH listers posting rates of $40 to swap switches...]
b. B+D Enterprises has the Hakko 808 (Kit P) for $152.13 (after discounts, and I think free shipping is an option)
So is it a reasonable assumption that if I eventually desolder a total of eight keyboards, at that point it will become cheaper to buy a Hakko 808 than to pay someone to do this for me? Or is my math completely off?
wow, another 5%? methinks someone overstocked on hakko goods ;)
wow, another 5%? methinks someone overstocked on hakko goods ;)
The biggest decision is do i stay with the 888 or go all in for the 888d.
wow, another 5%? methinks someone overstocked on hakko goods ;)
I got the D cheaper than the normal one, so I got the D.
binge, the 808 fits quick well in the 633. it is, of course, very bulky at the rear, but the front slots in perfectly.
Hakko FX888D Digital Soldering Station $91.35
Hakko 7-SA Tweezer $5.17
Hakko 808-KIT/P Desoldering Kit $178.98
Hakko 599B-02 Waterless Tip Cleaner $0.00
Subtotal $275.50
Discount (Free 599B with any order over $25, 15% off all Hakko Products) -$41.33
Shipping & Handling (International Shipping - International Flat Rate) $54.95
Tax $0.00
Grand Total $289.12
But they don't have the Hakko 900M-T-1.6D tips jdcarpe recommended :(
But they don't have the Hakko 900M-T-1.6D tips jdcarpe recommended :(
I only recommend those for the Yihua 936. :)
For a Hakko FX-888D, you want T18-D16 tips. (which I also think they don't have lol)
Btw, this B+D support is super nice. They answered my 3 mails in the last 2 days with some nice customer service!
That tip that jd recommended to me shipped today. Can't wait. I need to attempt to fix my left control on my poker now that i've got more experience soldering. I probably need to pick up some flux.
Is there anything at radio shack worth getting?
That tip that jd recommended to me shipped today. Can't wait. I need to attempt to fix my left control on my poker now that i've got more experience soldering. I probably need to pick up some flux.
Is there anything at radio shack worth getting?
Panavise and a Brass Tip Cleaner.
But they don't have the Hakko 900M-T-1.6D tips jdcarpe recommended :(
I only recommend those for the Yihua 936. :)
For a Hakko FX-888D, you want T18-D16 tips. (which I also think they don't have lol)
If both tips are compatible with both soldering stations, may I ask why is one tip better for the first station and the other one better for the second station?
They aren't compatible with both. The Yihua 936 is a clone of the Hakko 936, which is a totally different animal than the FX-888D.
The Hakko 936 uses a Hakko 907 iron, and 900M-T-xxx tips.
The Hakko FX-888D uses a Hakko FX-8801 iron, and T18-xxx tips.
Well, I finally pulled the trigger on the Hakko 888D. And cutters and flux remover and a cable, why not!
At least, that's a long term investment (gotta justify it someway).
Btw, this B+D support is super nice. They answered my 3 mails in the last 2 days with some nice customer service!
Edit: And now I REALLY need to put my hands on a GH60 pcb!
Well, I finally pulled the trigger on the Hakko 888D. And cutters and flux remover and a cable, why not!
At least, that's a long term investment (gotta justify it someway).
Btw, this B+D support is super nice. They answered my 3 mails in the last 2 days with some nice customer service!
Edit: And now I REALLY need to put my hands on a GH60 pcb!
Looks like the B+D Hako sale is over. I got a reminder that I'd left stuff in my shopping cart, logged in to see that the Hakko 808 listed with free solder scrubber, but no discount (or 5% discount coupon...). Guess I waited too long! (There was a note that I could save 13% if I ordered 200 units... :eek: )
Their list price for the Hakko 808 is now within a couple of bucks of Amazon's price, and I get free 2-day shipping on Amazon, so that's probably the route I'll take.
unless you plan on desoldering a LOT, i would recommend just going with a soldapullt. they're effective and an order of magnitude less money.
unless you plan on desoldering a LOT, i would recommend just going with a soldapullt. they're effective and an order of magnitude less money.
But I want to desolder EVERYTHING :eek:
unless you plan on desoldering a LOT, i would recommend just going with a soldapullt. they're effective and an order of magnitude less money.
But I want to desolder EVERYTHING :eek:
If you get an 808, you WILL desolder everything.
To be honest, I love my 808, but it's a pain to drag that huge gun out for just a few joints, and I end up using the Soldapullt. :)
Got that new tip in today. Wow, what a difference. Glad I got it.
Desoldered 6 fullsize boards with a cheap desoldering iron designed like the soldapult but with an iron tip that melts the solder.
Someone want to save me and gift a 808 :p
Thanks for the tips! I'll try increasing the temp just a tad, and trying to perfect the circular desoldering technique. I had been doing that on some of the pins, but managed to pull off three pads on the G80 PCB (keenly unfortunate since this is the one I'm planning on reusing). The Marquardt and Televideo PCBs are mostly for practice.
Got those 104 switches desoldered and deplated in just under an hour yesterday. Solder-sucking is an art.
Got those 104 switches desoldered and deplated in just under an hour yesterday. Solder-sucking is an art.
What tool did you use? That's pretty good time! And yes, it definitely is an art.
I could desolder the diodes on it too... would take a lot longer than the switches did because the wires are bent onto the pads. I'd be saving $6 if I ever needed them. Is it worth it? Am I going to pull my hair out trying it?no and yes respectively.
wow, another 5%? methinks someone overstocked on hakko goods ;)
Well ****... this just makes things harder :)) Let's see if they send me this extra 5% off coupon.
Thanks again for shopping at B+D, we appreciate it. Based on your email I'll work on putting together a special promotion exclusive to the geekhack.org forum members. Look for that soon.
This is an awesome thing to hear.wow, another 5%? methinks someone overstocked on hakko goods ;)
Well ****... this just makes things harder :)) Let's see if they send me this extra 5% off coupon.
For those who were interested in buying the Hakko fx888 from B+D. I emailed them, and in the end, it's unfortunatly not possible to combine discounts.
But I pointed them at this thread and we'll maybe get a special promotion:Quote from: brian from bdent.comThanks again for shopping at B+D, we appreciate it. Based on your email I'll work on putting together a special promotion exclusive to the geekhack.org forum members. Look for that soon.
wow, another 5%? methinks someone overstocked on hakko goods ;)
Well ****... this just makes things harder :)) Let's see if they send me this extra 5% off coupon.
For those who were interested in buying the Hakko fx888 from B+D. I emailed them, and in the end, it's unfortunatly not possible to combine discounts.
But I pointed them at this thread and we'll maybe get a special promotion:Quote from: brian from bdent.comThanks again for shopping at B+D, we appreciate it. Based on your email I'll work on putting together a special promotion exclusive to the geekhack.org forum members. Look for that soon.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that they've added hakko T18-D* chisel tips to their shop!
i'm demoing our closest approximation to a "learn to solder" soldering pencil next week i believe courtesy edsyn. the goal behind this project will be to create an iron that teaches you how not to kill pads or make bad joints. i've realized that even though i keep recommending the 888d. it's an ideal iron for_me_, not necessarily for someone just getting into soldering. it is _really_ easy to break stuff with an 888d.
stranded wires, especially large gauge wires, will sink all the power that the hakko offers and all then all the solder you offer the joint will just flow into the wire and then you'll have a bad day
you can easily fry ICs by putting too much power into a big fat ground plane pad on the other side of the pcb
oxidized tips are bad. lots of power plus an oxidized tip is really really bad. temperature control is measured at the heater not the tip.
lots of power means lots of responsibility when working with sensitive devices. soldering basics are that much more important. that is, unless you _enjoy_ melting plastic and frying ICs.
Been cruising the thread this week. Anybody get all their soldering stuff from Fry's? I poked around their website and they seem to have a lot of the supplies mentioned in this thread.That is where I get most of my stuff from. Because Fry's is local for me. Radio Shack does not have much to offer these days, otherwise I order online for the rest.
Been cruising the thread this week. Anybody get all their soldering stuff from Fry's? I poked around their website and they seem to have a lot of the supplies mentioned in this thread.fry's is quite evil, but a last resort is a last resort.
Been cruising the thread this week. Anybody get all their soldering stuff from Fry's? I poked around their website and they seem to have a lot of the supplies mentioned in this thread.fry's is quite evil, but a last resort is a last resort.
any recommendation on flux remover? my old one didn't work very well :rolleyes:
:) thanks, I will itany recommendation on flux remover? my old one didn't work very well :rolleyes:
Isopropyl alcohol + lint free cloth or ESD brush works pretty well for me
I'm interested in building a phantom board and over the last week I've sourced all the parts needed to create it from all over the place, I'm fairly knowledgeable on the keyboards themselves so I know what goes where etc etc however I'm inexperienced at soldering and do not have any equipment. Is it possible that someone could recommend me some soldering kit so that I can go ahead with my project or at least start practicing for it. At the moment I think I'll need, A soldering iron, some solder and a desoldering pump; is there anything I'm missing? I've read the original thead however all the pricaes are in US and I'm not sure about where to get stuff in the UK or what to get. Thank you for your help.
In the absence of a Hakko desoldering iron, is my best option to remove LEDs from swtiches using a braid + flux? Pretty sure the RadioShack iron will be too large for the job, plus it eats through tips like a hungry orphan through a cheesecake. Going to be replacing some 87 LEDs soon.
P.S.: I own an old used Soldapullt in good condition, but embarrassingly enough, I haven't mastered it yet. Or else I really need to grease the o-ring, because it doesn't seem to be doing well at sucking solder.
By the way, does anyone know if the PCB in LZ-GH also has through-hole copper inserts for all of the LED holes?
By the way, does anyone know if the PCB in LZ-GH also has through-hole copper inserts for all of the LED holes?
I'm almost positive it does. It seemed like they were plated through holes when I was assembling mine.
By the way, has anyone tried one of these? Lots up on eBay, this model and some more expensive versions
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-selling-arrival-S-993A-Electric-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Gun-/321210037659?pt=US_Video_Gaming_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item4ac99c359b
"S-993A Electric Vacuum Desoldering Pump Solder Sucker Gun"
(up to 350C)
Not that I want to spend $90 on one, but it's significantly cheaper than Hakko's desoldering gun (half the price).
Hmm, would it be worth it to wait for the GH edition soldering iron, or should I just get a yihua :Pit looks like the yihua 937 is as low as 45$ shipped? i absolutely cannot beat that. the edsyn cl1481 fixed to kester 44 process temp with a bundle of kester 44 is going to be a much more user friendly way to start soldering than a yihua, and will teach you much much more about how to solder properly than the yihua station, as well as being significantly higher quality and easier to work with, but i categorically will not be able to sell them cheaper than yihuas. that price is ridiculously low.
Do you mean there's solder inside the holes where the switch pins are? As in, some filaments along copper inserts? If so, just get as much solder out as you can and then heat the pins while propping the PCB vertically on its side and then pull on the switch with your other hand from the opposite side. I normally wedge a flat head screwdriver or similar between the plate and where the switch tabs are and use the screwdriver as a lever. If you're careful and go slowly, your switch will pop out after you heat up the pins once or twice each. The goal is to melt the solder filaments you can't reach via heating up the pins while simultaneously pulling the switch out.It's on the surface. I can make direct contact with it and the soldering iron. It just will not melt no matter what I do.
Hopefully that's it. I've had to do that with a bunch of switches on Filco PCBs, since those PCBs are double-sided.
Has your iron gone bad, perhaps? Can you solder anything with it? Otherwise, I guess maybe try adding some flux on top of what you're trying to melt.It's so weird. The iron works perfectly. I can melt solder fine with it. This patch of solder just won't melt. I've tried practically every heat setting, I've tried adding solder to it.. Nothing works.
Take a picture so someone like mkawa can help?There isn't anything to see... It just looks like a regular solder joint (although the pad is a total mess). The solder looks exactly the same as normal solder, it just won't melt. It's really, really weird.
Ah, okay, after holding the iron to it for absolutely ages it melted rapidly and turned brown. That was really peculiar.
Now the pad has caved into the switch hole and there still seems to be solder in there.. *facepalm
Direct Wiring time...sorry to hear againStill need to get the switch out...
the Tek will rise and live soon!
So you don't have pure flux to add? Flux facilitates solder flow. You've probably burnt through all the flux that was in the solder to start with, so now you have only the metals left.I have no idea why it behaved so weird. I don't think it was flux. It wasn't that it wouldn't flow.. it's that it wouldn't melt.
Hmm, I might just wait for the cl1481. Being fixed to the kester temp, does that mean that it may be too hot or not hot enough for other applications?
The below image is DEFINITELY NSFL - TECH GOREIs there any fixing that...?MoreYeah.. as you can see it's now a 10/10 on the ****ed-o-meter.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lz9ATpB.jpg)
Doesn't matter that the pad is screwed. I can direct wire the switch easily, so that's no biggie.The below image is DEFINITELY NSFL - TECH GOREIs there any fixing that...?MoreYeah.. as you can see it's now a 10/10 on the ****ed-o-meter.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lz9ATpB.jpg)
I am growing somewhat disappointed by the Yihua 936. The tempeature of the tip varies to much and does not follow the dial very well at all. There is a large delta T between what the unit measures and the tip as well as an immense lag time. The unit stops heating long before the tip reaches correct temperature.
What bugs me is that Hakko's tip is partly to blame as it appears to have bad thermal contact with the heating element, bad conductance through the tip to get it to a homogenous temperature and low heat capacity.
I am contemplating getting a calibrated fixed temperature iron or an expensive real Hakko. I wonder how much better they can truly be. Does anyone have at least two of the three mentioned choices and could give me some comparison?
if it is any consolation, I can tell you how that likely happened Photekq.Well that sucks.. Seems that replacements aren't too cheap either. I'd probably need a working soldering iron to install them too.
When you fasten the screw you see there with the metal barrel, the PCB inside has to slide into a slot in the ceramic part. If it doesn't, you will press the ceramic part against the edge of the PCB a few mm earlier than it should. If you keep screwing it, the ceramic will be pressed and eventually buckle and crack.
at your level of expertise, photekq, i think a hakko 888d would be a good choice. the trick with the 888d is that it's pretty high power and it's easy to burn stuff up. one of the goals of the cl1841 project is to make it very easy to make good joints (and bad joints, but that's how you learn) but very hard to destroy things via overheating, etc. i want to make a fail-_soft_ platform for people to work with. it's much better to make 100 bad joints that you can reflow non-destructively than to destroy a single pad and then have to work around that.if it is any consolation, I can tell you how that likely happened Photekq.Well that sucks.. Seems that replacements aren't too cheap either. I'd probably need a working soldering iron to install them too.
When you fasten the screw you see there with the metal barrel, the PCB inside has to slide into a slot in the ceramic part. If it doesn't, you will press the ceramic part against the edge of the PCB a few mm earlier than it should. If you keep screwing it, the ceramic will be pressed and eventually buckle and crack.
Considering a Hakko right now..
1) just toss the yihua heaters. they are crap. i BELIEVE that true hakko heaters are all cast solid ceramic with the TC embedded. this is the only way to get an accurate temp out of a heater. they also use AFAIK quick disconnects on the heater wires.
1) just toss the yihua heaters. they are crap. i BELIEVE that true hakko heaters are all cast solid ceramic with the TC embedded. this is the only way to get an accurate temp out of a heater. they also use AFAIK quick disconnects on the heater wires.
You think we could replace the Yihua heaters with Hakko heaters? I see some Hakko elements for like $4 on eBay. Most likely fakes?
The connector appears to be the same except for one being male to female and the other being female to male. I might try a spare hakko iron and replace the plug on it. What remains to be checked is if they are calibrated for the same type of thermocouple and element.they are almost certainly not. the tc and tc amp in the yihua are almost certainly total crap. the ad595adz i bought for my 8 endpoint type k thermometer (muxed to a single amp) was 40$. 40$ for a single tc amp. the reason, of course is accuracy. on this chip, the trim resistor is lasercut to extremely high accuracy. type J,K, whatever t/c standards are a) highly non-linear and b) depend on a perfect o2 free 0 resistance weld across the two dissimilar metals that make up the TC.
NNOOOOOOO, HELPING HANDS ARE THE DEVIL.
you will quickly learn that helping hands are completely misnamed. they do exactly the opposite of help.
Yup, and I got the EU plug model. HK offers them with different plugs and from different warehouses. All in all they have 7 slightly differetn variants of it on their site.the cl is 115v. i had completely forgotten about this. it's simple and possible to engineer it for 230v, but i would have to do the conversion myself. blegh!
How so?
What's bad about helping hands?
Yup, and I got the EU plug model. HK offers them with different plugs and from different warehouses. All in all they have 7 slightly differetn variants of it on their site.the cl is 115v. i had completely forgotten about this. it's simple and possible to engineer it for 230v, but i would have to do the conversion myself. blegh!
How so?
So, I am swapping springs on one of my keyboard and need a soldering iron..
Should I buy the yihua 936? And do I NEED any replacement tips for desoldering and soldering with it?
So, I am swapping springs on one of my keyboard and need a soldering iron..
Should I buy the yihua 936? And do I NEED any replacement tips for desoldering and soldering with it?
That depends. What is your budget? If you can afford it, the $90 Hakko FX-888D is a much better setup for a beginner. And you won't need any replacement tips to get started.
If your budget is less than $50, get the Yihua 936. It can get the job done, and is a good deal better than just a fixed wattage soldering pencil from Radio Shack.
With the Yihua, you definitely want to get a replacement tip before you even attempt to use it. Get a 900M-T-1.6D tip from eBay.
So this tip should be enough for all of my soldering and desoldering needs?I personally used a 2.4D (2.4mm diameter instead of 1.6mm), but yes that tip will be great for any kind of keyboard soldering.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-900M-T-1-6D-Soldering-Iron-Chisel-Tip-Rework-for-936-Aoyue-Atten-US-SELLER-/321178739681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac7bea3e1
So this tip should be enough for all of my soldering and desoldering needs?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-900M-T-1-6D-Soldering-Iron-Chisel-Tip-Rework-for-936-Aoyue-Atten-US-SELLER-/321178739681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac7bea3e1
Also, 888D has been ordered! Can't wait!
I'm sure I will. Looks like a really nice station.Also, 888D has been ordered! Can't wait!
Wahoo! Join the club! :thumb: I think you'll like it.
I'm sure I will. Looks like a really nice station.Also, 888D has been ordered! Can't wait!
Wahoo! Join the club! :thumb: I think you'll like it.
Managed to find some flux & wick. Also picked up some isopropyl alcohol, lint free wipes, an alcohol dispenser, and a bunch of other stuff.
All I need now is a table.. :rolleyes:
Kitchen table works fine, until you mess up or your parents see you :pWhat if I don't have a kitchen table? :))
Kitchen table works fine, until you mess up or your parents see you :pWhat if I don't have a kitchen table? :))
(i don't actually have a kitchen table) :|
I want to make one out of MDF and cheap wood but.. effort :))
There's a worktable write up in the earlier part of this exact thread, in fact.Yeah, I saw that. It's nice. I've already made my primary desk ( as seen here : http://imgur.com/a/32FAJ ), I would probably just downsize it.
Copying logan with that graphics card coaster? :pThere's a worktable write up in the earlier part of this exact thread, in fact.Yeah, I saw that. It's nice. I've already made my primary desk ( as seen here : http://imgur.com/a/32FAJ ), I would probably just downsize it.
Kitchen table works fine, until you mess up or your parents see you :pWhat if I don't have a kitchen table? :))
(i don't actually have a kitchen table) :|
I want to make one out of MDF and cheap wood but.. effort :))
Need your opinion... I spent $50 on this NEW soldering station. It looks like a rebranded version of this: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_USA_Warehouse_.html (the case looks a little different)
I used it once to repair a usb chip. I pulled it out last night and the power switch seams to be malfunctioning. When I flip the switch to ON, the light flashes sometimes but it does not come on. I can hold the tip in my hand to verify it is not warming up. If I turn the switch ON and OFF about 10-15 times, I can get it to turn on.
I have emailed the company I bought it from to see if I can get it replaced or get a credit for its value towards another soldering station.
Is this soldering stations usually reliable and do I just have a lemon here? Is it worth my while to move to a better brand like Weller?
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
If you read my post one one or two pages back I give a quite detailed description of it, and also what is likely wrong with yours. I fixed one of mine which had similar symptoms. The solder joints in the pen are likely quite bad. Do you have something else you can solder with to fix it?
One thing I don't see listed here are SMD Flow tips (Well based), these can be a bit hard to come by in some countries due to patents and such but they are really handy for SMD work:http://www.bdent.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bcm
Hakko has BCM/CM series but I have not seen them in North America, you can buy the aftermarket Plato ones though:
Plato HS-0531 / HS-0530: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/12244824029415007260
Here is a youtube video showing the use of a flow tip:
Came today with a few tips aswell as a solder reel holder. Expecting a load of stuff from ebay soon: wick, flux, kimwipes, and some more stuff.Your all set now the Hakko's are a great, the best in their price range. I love using the one I have.
Dancap (http://dancap.co.uk/) have a really awful website and you have to pay through bank transfer or cheque. However, their service is very, very good indeed. Would highly recommend anyone in the EU/UK using them!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xZMV0Fs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cllUZaC.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/M0qABg5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HVPXVuL.jpg)
I really love the colours of this thing. It feels very high quality too, looking forward to using it!
Came today with a few tips aswell as a solder reel holder. Expecting a load of stuff from ebay soon: wick, flux, kimwipes, and some more stuff.
Dancap (http://dancap.co.uk/) have a really awful website and you have to pay through bank transfer or cheque. However, their service is very, very good indeed. Would highly recommend anyone in the EU/UK using them!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xZMV0Fs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cllUZaC.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/M0qABg5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HVPXVuL.jpg)
I really love the colours of this thing. It feels very high quality too, looking forward to using it!
When soldering the super small SMD components do I need soldering flux?
:|
Did you get a new camera recently too? :eek:Haha, no. I just took the photos while the sun was out so the lighting was good.
Regardless, lookin good!! I'm positive you'll enjoy it.
Photekq, nice pictures. I'm thinking of purchasing an fx888d also, and dancap looks as good as any place to buy from. Will just the T18-B tip that it comes with be enough to start soldering a phantom? or do I need others?I would get a T18-D16 or T18-D24 for soldering a phantom. The stock tip isn't a chisel tip, so it wouldn't be very good for soldering a keyboard.
I know it's been suggested since the first page, but why are chisel tips preferred to the pointed ones?I believe chisel tips have better heat transfer.
Photekq, nice pictures. I'm thinking of purchasing an fx888d also, and dancap looks as good as any place to buy from. Will just the T18-B tip that it comes with be enough to start soldering a phantom? or do I need others?I would get a T18-D16 or T18-D24 for soldering a phantom. The stock tip isn't a chisel tip, so it wouldn't be very good for soldering a keyboard.
Yes, although it may be worth getting a D12 or D16 since I believe there is some trickier soldering on the ergodox.Photekq, nice pictures. I'm thinking of purchasing an fx888d also, and dancap looks as good as any place to buy from. Will just the T18-B tip that it comes with be enough to start soldering a phantom? or do I need others?I would get a T18-D16 or T18-D24 for soldering a phantom. The stock tip isn't a chisel tip, so it wouldn't be very good for soldering a keyboard.
Cheers I'll send them an email tomorrow :thumb:
Do the same tips apply for an ergodox?
I know it's been suggested since the first page, but why are chisel tips preferred to the pointed ones?It enables faster heat transfer.
Thanks a lot :DNo worries. Any time :)
Are you able to desolder it within two seconds of placing the iron on the joint? If so, it's fine.I don't know, soldering iron has not shown up yet. :-[
Ah right. What iron is it, and what's the diameter of the tip?Are you able to desolder it within two seconds of placing the iron on the joint? If so, it's fine.I don't know, soldering iron has not shown up yet. :-[
Yihua 936, the tip is 1.6.Ah right. What iron is it, and what's the diameter of the tip?Are you able to desolder it within two seconds of placing the iron on the joint? If so, it's fine.I don't know, soldering iron has not shown up yet. :-[
Yihua 936, the tip is 1.6.I reckon that'll be fine. If you find that it takes a long time to melt the solder then maybe get a 2.4, which is what I used when I had a yihua.
So I got the yihua 936 a couple days ago, it worked really good and I think I did a great job for my first time soldering. I changed my cherry mx blues to ghetto greens and stickered them. Everything worked and I didn't have any problems :D
Thanks!Show Image(http://cdn.overclock.net/4/44/900x900px-LL-44189fc6_DSC_0170.jpeg)
On what temp I need to set my solder iron to solder/desolder LED?
On what temp I need to set my solder iron to solder/desolder LED?
Keep it to right at the temperature to melt the solder you're using. 63/37 usually is around 380*F
On what temp I need to set my solder iron to solder/desolder LED?
Keep it to right at the temperature to melt the solder you're using. 63/37 usually is around 380*F
Since iwant to change some switches on a keyboard with led (CM storm Quickfire tk), do you know aproximatively the temp for that?
Thanks :D
Although to hot can be more forgiving than to cold. Reason being if it is to hot it will just melt quicker and you can get the solder sucked up and out a touch quicker. If it is to cold then you have to sit there and wait for the solder to melt while that heat moves up the pin for the switch and could start melting stuff in the switch.
I recently got a Noppoo Choc Mini and found out that two keys (the O and L keys) either don't register when pressed, don't register unless another key is pressed immediately after, or just register twice consistently.
I guess I need to desolder the two switches and replace them, but I want to do it on the cheap.
Would a crappy, not temperature-controllable (in terms of a dial or switch) work if I'm just going to use it for two switches?
I'm talking about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0
I recently got a Noppoo Choc Mini and found out that two keys (the O and L keys) either don't register when pressed, don't register unless another key is pressed immediately after, or just register twice consistently.
I guess I need to desolder the two switches and replace them, but I want to do it on the cheap.
Would a crappy, not temperature-controllable (in terms of a dial or switch) work if I'm just going to use it for two switches?
I'm talking about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0
RMA
I recently got a Noppoo Choc Mini and found out that two keys (the O and L keys) either don't register when pressed, don't register unless another key is pressed immediately after, or just register twice consistently.
I guess I need to desolder the two switches and replace them, but I want to do it on the cheap.
Would a crappy, not temperature-controllable (in terms of a dial or switch) work if I'm just going to use it for two switches?
I'm talking about something like this: http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0
RMA
I second this motion. Sounds like more than just a bad solder job to me.
I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons?How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html
Also I will probally buyhttp://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.
So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done.What's the cheapest things I need to do so?what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?
I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons?How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html
Also I will probally buyhttp://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.
So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done.What's the cheapest things I need to do so?what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?
What's wrong with the first soldering iron?
I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons?How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html
Also I will probally buyhttp://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.
So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done.What's the cheapest things I need to do so?what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?
FX888D arrived today thanks to this thread and special thanks to Photekq for recommending a UK seller of said unit. (Dancap Electronics, highly highly recommended)It's a quality unit indeed. I hope it serves you well ;) and I'm glad you got the same top notch service from Dancap that I did.
Looks very nice indeed, everything is being soldered whether it needs it or not :thumb:
Oh, was meaning to post this ages ago. For all newbies : watch this video in full before even touching an iron, it is by far the best instructional video on youtube and will tell you everything that you need to know.
You don't need to watch the entire series, only the first video is really applicable to keyboard soldering.
I'm really confused. In order to only solder in ~50 switches, and not desolder, what do I need? Do I need the wick and a soldering iron or just an iron? And are there any cheaper irons?How about this? http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=zg_bs_13837391_1Going to buy http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19240.html
Also I will probally buyhttp://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=360-670http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1383887070&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron(its cheaper on amazon), the helping hands, which will help with lubing switches and soldering.
So just need to solder in switches, all the other tooling will be pre done.What's the cheapest things I need to do so?what other stuff besides the yihua do I need to buy?
Do you have solder??
Oh, was meaning to post this ages ago. For all newbies : watch this video in full before even touching an iron, it is by far the best instructional video on youtube and will tell you everything that you need to know.
You don't need to watch the entire series, only the first video is really applicable to keyboard soldering.
Thanks :thumb:
How old is that video? Its very helpful. I see I need solder metal, flux, and a iron. For the solder metal and flux, where can I get a small amount? I don't need 30 dollars worth of it
Yihua 936, the tip is 1.6.I reckon that'll be fine. If you find that it takes a long time to melt the solder then maybe get a 2.4, which is what I used when I had a yihua.
Take a look at this : t=18m35s
Photekq, which size tip are you using on your fx888d?I use 2.4mm chisel for switches. I have a 1.2mm which I hope to use for SMD/possibly LEDs, although I haven't tried it yet.
Does anyone know what resistors I would need with these LEDs?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Pink-Water-Clear-LED-Lamp-With-12V-Free-Resistors-234P-td-/390631308376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af370bc58&_uhb=1
Whats the Ohm's "Holmes"?Does anyone know what resistors I would need with these LEDs?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Pink-Water-Clear-LED-Lamp-With-12V-Free-Resistors-234P-td-/390631308376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af370bc58&_uhb=1
With a 5V power supply you'd need about 56 ohms or slightly higher depending on what you got. In general RLED = (VSUPPLY - VLED) / ILED.
Does the type of soldering flux used matter at all?
Does the type of soldering flux used matter at all? I have a tube of this water soluble lead-free flux that came with some solder I bought and was wondering if it would be fine for use. I have checked to make sure that it is indeed for use on electronics and not plumbing or anything of that sort.It is best to use 63/37 leaded solder and RA flux for easier use. But should cleaned with good flux remover or alcohol when finished.
Does the type of soldering flux used matter at all? I have a tube of this water soluble lead-free flux that came with some solder I bought and was wondering if it would be fine for use. I have checked to make sure that it is indeed for use on electronics and not plumbing or anything of that sort.It is best to use 63/37 leaded solder and RA flux for easier use. But should cleaned with good flux remover or alcohol when finished.
I'm sorry. RA Flux?
Traditional rosin fluxes - available in non-activated (R), mildly activated (RMA) and activated (RA) formulations. RA and RMA fluxes contain rosin combined with an activating agent, typically an acid, which increases the wettability of metals to which it is applied by removing existing oxides. The residue resulting from the use of RA flux is corrosive and must be cleaned. RMA flux is formulated to result in a residue which is not significantly corrosive, with cleaning being preferred but optional. [ref (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering)]
we should add in some advice and tips into this thread. like how to solve a burnt or 'dissappeared' soldering pad etc.
Do you guys think kimwipes and specific flux are necessary for SMD soldering, specifically microcontrollers?I would not use what you linked, go back and read this thread for suggested solders & fluxes.
Edit: I do have flux but don't know if it'd be okay for SMD soldering. For reference it's the same flux that comes with: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLDER-silver-bearing-lead-free-FLUX-specialty-Kit-jewelry-BERNZOMATIC-SSWS100-/130937937883
So Christmas is coming and it's time for me to get some decent soldering equipment. This is my current list:
-Weller WHS40
-Edsyn Sodapullt
-63/37 Solder from ebay
-soldering flux
-one of those dry cleaners
-DIY fume absorber
The Weller is the cheapest non no-name iron I could find and costs about 60€, I saw a Yihua on ebay that would cost me 40€, so this should be a good choice, right?
I cannot find any 63/37 solder apart from some on ebay, just 60/40 and solder with copper or silver.
For that DIY fume absorber I will probably power a case fan via USB (5V is a bit low but might be enough).
Anything I forgot?
So Christmas is coming and it's time for me to get some decent soldering equipment. This is my current list:
-Weller WHS40
-Edsyn Sodapullt
-63/37 Solder from ebay
-soldering flux
-one of those dry cleaners
-DIY fume absorber
The Weller is the cheapest non no-name iron I could find and costs about 60€, I saw a Yihua on ebay that would cost me 40€, so this should be a good choice, right?
I cannot find any 63/37 solder apart from some on ebay, just 60/40 and solder with copper or silver.
For that DIY fume absorber I will probably power a case fan via USB (5V is a bit low but might be enough).
Anything I forgot?
This for the fan (http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?scase=c_usb&pid=297&area=en). My wife has one on her desk at work and loves it. For USB powered they do move a quite a bit of air.
How important is flux?
How important is flux?
How important is flux?
Got sick of my cheap USB hub shorting out and decided to take it apart and fix it. It was a mess in there. Some of the worst soldering I have ever seen. Also, what engineer thinks it would be a good idea to surface mount an unsupported cable connection to a PCB? At least through hole mount that sh!t...Hey nice work, with the Hakko you can solder like PRO, wait till you build a keyboard you'll love it even more.
I have to say that I am loving the Hakko FX-888D though. That thing is a dream to work with. Apparently I need a flux pen when working with super tiny pads cause wetting is a PITA otherwise. I had to be really careful because the pads were so close together and without a flux pen, i had to get creative. Once I started tinning the wire tip with .8mm rosin core 63/37 to get some flux transfer things started to get easier. I was getting a lot better by the end, but the start was pretty frustrating. Luckily half of it was through hole soldering which is much easier than SMD soldering.
You may notice my fake 3rd hand. It worked alright considering it was just stuff I had on hand. I will have to make something better before I do a full keyboard. My super ghetto electrical tape 'case' should keep everything in one piece. :)
Here are some pictures.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I looked up the kester 951 and it's not that it's not acidic, it's that the flux applied is all used up during soldering and leaves little to no residue.so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
IMO it is always a good idea to clean up flux even if it is not acidic and may not damage the pcb. Maybe others have more experience with no-clean flux.
I looked up the kester 951 and it's not that it's not acidic, it's that the flux applied is all used up during soldering and leaves little to no residue.so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
IMO it is always a good idea to clean up flux even if it is not acidic and may not damage the pcb. Maybe others have more experience with no-clean flux.
I looked up the kester 951 and it's not that it's not acidic, it's that the flux applied is all used up during soldering and leaves little to no residue.so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
IMO it is always a good idea to clean up flux even if it is not acidic and may not damage the pcb. Maybe others have more experience with no-clean flux.
Not sure how that would work. It is a pen, so you could put flux all over the place. Not sure how it is supposed to be 'all used up'. I would still clean it after I finish the job...
I looked up the kester 951 and it's not that it's not acidic, it's that the flux applied is all used up during soldering and leaves little to no residue.so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
IMO it is always a good idea to clean up flux even if it is not acidic and may not damage the pcb. Maybe others have more experience with no-clean flux.
Not sure how that would work. It is a pen, so you could put flux all over the place. Not sure how it is supposed to be 'all used up'. I would still clean it after I finish the job...
how do you clean it up?
it's a second shift/did not pass QC unit. they're all over taobao. unlike every other true production level station on the market (and a first for hakko as well), the 888d is made in china. this means there are units falling off of trucks all over the place. this also means that it has the lowest ultimate quality of anything with a hakko brand on it ever, unfortunately. this is how they managed to afford the very high cost ICs they put in it :(.
I might be a bit off-topic here, but...
I've wanted to buy the fx-888 for a longer time, but I couldn't find a 220V version for a reasonable price.
Now I see this: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html)
Do you think it's a fake? It's just too cheap...
On the other hand there are also others in aliexpress, for example this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html)
Interestingly, none of the sub-$70 says it's original, whereas some of the $100-ish do.
if you were working on high voltage stuff, q-tips shed flammable cotton all over the place, but with low voltage stuff you're good. that said, i think it's a waste of a q-tip. pick up a nylon brush from the hardware store for a dollar and use that instead. nylon brushes with solvent on them are useful all over the workbench, even on the workbench. i keep a couple around with (progressive upward in abrasiveness) a couple brass brushes a couple steel brushes and a couple stainless steel brushes.I looked up the kester 951 and it's not that it's not acidic, it's that the flux applied is all used up during soldering and leaves little to no residue.so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
IMO it is always a good idea to clean up flux even if it is not acidic and may not damage the pcb. Maybe others have more experience with no-clean flux.
Not sure how that would work. It is a pen, so you could put flux all over the place. Not sure how it is supposed to be 'all used up'. I would still clean it after I finish the job...
how do you clean it up?
I use isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip. I am sure there are better tools than Q-tips, but that is what I have been using.
it's a second shift/did not pass QC unit. they're all over taobao. unlike every other true production level station on the market (and a first for hakko as well), the 888d is made in china. this means there are units falling off of trucks all over the place. this also means that it has the lowest ultimate quality of anything with a hakko brand on it ever, unfortunately. this is how they managed to afford the very high cost ICs they put in it :( .
I might be a bit off-topic here, but...
I've wanted to buy the fx-888 for a longer time, but I couldn't find a 220V version for a reasonable price.
Now I see this: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html)
Do you think it's a fake? It's just too cheap...
On the other hand there are also others in aliexpress, for example this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html)
Interestingly, none of the sub-$70 says it's original, whereas some of the $100-ish do.
my long-term review of it is nowhere near as glowing as my initial review of it was. the heater, which is the most important part of a soldering iron and most expensive, has only lasted about six months in my unit. it is now starting to fail. actual temperature response is wandering literally every time i heat cycle it, the paint (yes, paint, it's not powdered) is coming off the holder, etc. i'm not a particularly happy camper with this unit. example: when i first purchased it, it took about 3-5 _seconds_ to heat to op temp. now it takes about a minute and i usually have to recalibrate it. total output has also suffered. i'm using big tips for small tip jobs to compensate, and constantly cleaning the heater, but it's clear this is not meant for high hobbyist duty cycles. i may have some interesting plans for it in the mid-term, but when i get the money i will most likely replace it with an edsyn 2020 or 971dx or some other stuff i've been told is in the works :X
if you were working on high voltage stuff, q-tips shed flammable cotton all over the place, but with low voltage stuff you're good. that said, i think it's a waste of a q-tip. pick up a nylon brush from the hardware store for a dollar and use that instead. nylon brushes with solvent on them are useful all over the workbench, even on the workbench. i keep a couple around with (progressive upward in abrasiveness) a couple brass brushes a couple steel brushes and a couple stainless steel brushes.I looked up the kester 951 and it's not that it's not acidic, it's that the flux applied is all used up during soldering and leaves little to no residue.so I bought one of these kester 951 flux pens and it's said to be no-clean. That being said, should I still clean after usage or is it really not necessary?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180889483171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
IMO it is always a good idea to clean up flux even if it is not acidic and may not damage the pcb. Maybe others have more experience with no-clean flux.
Not sure how that would work. It is a pen, so you could put flux all over the place. Not sure how it is supposed to be 'all used up'. I would still clean it after I finish the job...
how do you clean it up?
I use isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip. I am sure there are better tools than Q-tips, but that is what I have been using.
it's a second shift/did not pass QC unit. they're all over taobao. unlike every other true production level station on the market (and a first for hakko as well), the 888d is made in china. this means there are units falling off of trucks all over the place. this also means that it has the lowest ultimate quality of anything with a hakko brand on it ever, unfortunately. this is how they managed to afford the very high cost ICs they put in it :( .
I might be a bit off-topic here, but...
I've wanted to buy the fx-888 for a longer time, but I couldn't find a 220V version for a reasonable price.
Now I see this: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html)
Do you think it's a fake? It's just too cheap...
On the other hand there are also others in aliexpress, for example this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html)
Interestingly, none of the sub-$70 says it's original, whereas some of the $100-ish do.
my long-term review of it is nowhere near as glowing as my initial review of it was. the heater, which is the most important part of a soldering iron and most expensive, has only lasted about six months in my unit. it is now starting to fail. actual temperature response is wandering literally every time i heat cycle it, the paint (yes, paint, it's not powdered) is coming off the holder, etc. i'm not a particularly happy camper with this unit. example: when i first purchased it, it took about 3-5 _seconds_ to heat to op temp. now it takes about a minute and i usually have to recalibrate it. total output has also suffered. i'm using big tips for small tip jobs to compensate, and constantly cleaning the heater, but it's clear this is not meant for high hobbyist duty cycles. i may have some interesting plans for it in the mid-term, but when i get the money i will most likely replace it with an edsyn 2020 or 971dx or some other stuff i've been told is in the works :X
Thanks!
Are you talking about the $60 one or the hakkos for the Chinese market in general?
Well, I already have a decent one, but it has the cord on the right side which makes me mad;P
both. anyway komar, you need a quality station.
wat
flip it over? ;)
it's a second shift/did not pass QC unit. they're all over taobao. unlike every other true production level station on the market (and a first for hakko as well), the 888d is made in china. this means there are units falling off of trucks all over the place. this also means that it has the lowest ultimate quality of anything with a hakko brand on it ever, unfortunately. this is how they managed to afford the very high cost ICs they put in it :(.
I might be a bit off-topic here, but...
I've wanted to buy the fx-888 for a longer time, but I couldn't find a 220V version for a reasonable price.
Now I see this: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/809293_730008721.html)
Do you think it's a fake? It's just too cheap...
On the other hand there are also others in aliexpress, for example this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-HAKKO-FX-888D-digital-soldering-station-Solder-station-100-Genuine-HAKKO-soldering-station-Blue-colour/701136780.html)
Interestingly, none of the sub-$70 says it's original, whereas some of the $100-ish do.
my long-term review of it is nowhere near as glowing as my initial review of it was. the heater, which is the most important part of a soldering iron and most expensive, has only lasted about six months in my unit. it is now starting to fail. actual temperature response is wandering literally every time i heat cycle it, the paint (yes, paint, it's not powdered) is coming off the holder, etc. i'm not a particularly happy camper with this unit. example: when i first purchased it, it took about 3-5 _seconds_ to heat to op temp. now it takes about a minute and i usually have to recalibrate it. total output has also suffered. i'm using big tips for small tip jobs to compensate, and constantly cleaning the heater, but it's clear this is not meant for high hobbyist duty cycles. i may have some interesting plans for it in the mid-term, but when i get the money i will most likely replace it with an edsyn 2020 or 971dx or some other stuff i've been told is in the works :X
Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
how to make more sticky desoldering tool? :)
i often fail when desoldering switch :confused:
Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
What turns a bronze color, the tip? What solder are you using? It should be a nice silver color.
Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
What turns a bronze color, the tip? What solder are you using? It should be a nice silver color.
the tip turns a bronze color when I wipe the solder off. I'm using the Kester solder recommend in the thread. Basically when I'm applying it it begins to glob up on the tip. When I wipe it off the tip has the bronze look to it and when I turn it off after and the tip looks greyish with a slight blue to it. I kind of feel as if the solder isn't adhering to the tip.
how to make more sticky desoldering tool? :)
i often fail when desoldering switch :confused:
how to make more sticky desoldering tool? :)
i often fail when desoldering switch :confused:
I was taught a desoldering trick by a lady who does production soldering her whole career and relayed to me by my current professor. I'm studying industrial electronics and this was in a class on professional fabrication.
What you do is cut/melt a small "mousehole" notch right on the tip of your soldapullt, if you hold the soldapullt vertical it'll look like a little cartoon mouse door or something on the end/side of the tip.
Now you can place the soldapullt directly over the pin you want to desolder and still get the iron into the correct spot to melt the solder, WITHOUT having to try to melt it and then rapidly position the soldapullt as normal. That tricky timing part is completely eliminated with her "mousehole" method and the soldapullt still makes plenty of suction to clear the joint.
I sacrificed a tip (they are cheap) to try it out and it works wonders for my desoldering abilities. Before I was sometimes too slow to move the pump into position and hit the button before the solder rehardened. Now I get it right every time because the soldapullt is already in the perfect position before I even melt the solder :) Again there is still plenty of suction to completely clear the joint. (Some may think it won't "seal" right, but it is never really "sealed" against the board anyway.)
This has sped up my workflow and made the process much easier. I can post a pic if it doesn't make sense, but it's really simple, just put a notch on the tip that lets me put the iron tip in from the side.
cool!how to make more sticky desoldering tool? :)
i often fail when desoldering switch :confused:
I was taught a desoldering trick by a lady who does production soldering her whole career and relayed to me by my current professor. I'm studying industrial electronics and this was in a class on professional fabrication.
What you do is cut/melt a small "mousehole" notch right on the tip of your soldapullt, if you hold the soldapullt vertical it'll look like a little cartoon mouse door or something on the end/side of the tip.
Now you can place the soldapullt directly over the pin you want to desolder and still get the iron into the correct spot to melt the solder, WITHOUT having to try to melt it and then rapidly position the soldapullt as normal. That tricky timing part is completely eliminated with her "mousehole" method and the soldapullt still makes plenty of suction to clear the joint.
I sacrificed a tip (they are cheap) to try it out and it works wonders for my desoldering abilities. Before I was sometimes too slow to move the pump into position and hit the button before the solder rehardened. Now I get it right every time because the soldapullt is already in the perfect position before I even melt the solder :) Again there is still plenty of suction to completely clear the joint. (Some may think it won't "seal" right, but it is never really "sealed" against the board anyway.)
This has sped up my workflow and made the process much easier. I can post a pic if it doesn't make sense, but it's really simple, just put a notch on the tip that lets me put the iron tip in from the side.
how to make more sticky desoldering tool? :)
i often fail when desoldering switch ???
I was taught a desoldering trick by a lady who does production soldering her whole career and relayed to me by my current professor. I'm studying industrial electronics and this was in a class on professional fabrication.
What you do is cut/melt a small "mousehole" notch right on the tip of your soldapullt, if you hold the soldapullt vertical it'll look like a little cartoon mouse door or something on the end/side of the tip.
Now you can place the soldapullt directly over the pin you want to desolder and still get the iron into the correct spot to melt the solder, WITHOUT having to try to melt it and then rapidly position the soldapullt as normal. That tricky timing part is completely eliminated with her "mousehole" method and the soldapullt still makes plenty of suction to clear the joint.
I sacrificed a tip (they are cheap) to try it out and it works wonders for my desoldering abilities. Before I was sometimes too slow to move the pump into position and hit the button before the solder rehardened. Now I get it right every time because the soldapullt is already in the perfect position before I even melt the solder :) Again there is still plenty of suction to completely clear the joint. (Some may think it won't "seal" right, but it is never really "sealed" against the board anyway.)
This has sped up my workflow and made the process much easier. I can post a pic if it doesn't make sense, but it's really simple, just put a notch on the tip that lets me put the iron tip in from the side.
By wiping off the tip I mean just wiping off the excess solder on a wet sponge. I'm kind of confused as I put the solder onto the tip and it tends to glob up and when I wipe it off there isn't that shiny silver finish.Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
What turns a bronze color, the tip? What solder are you using? It should be a nice silver color.
the tip turns a bronze color when I wipe the solder off. I'm using the Kester solder recommend in the thread. Basically when I'm applying it it begins to glob up on the tip. When I wipe it off the tip has the bronze look to it and when I turn it off after and the tip looks greyish with a slight blue to it. I kind of feel as if the solder isn't adhering to the tip.
What do you mean by wiping off the tip? Do you mean you stick it into some bronze wool? Or actually wipe off the solder with a wet sponge? If you're cleaning the solder off the tip thoroughly, then you're not really "tinning" it--there needs to remain a layer of solder over the tip--that's what will give it that shiny silver finish too.
By wiping off the tip I mean just wiping off the excess solder on a wet sponge. I'm kind of confused as I put the solder onto the tip and it tends to glob up and when I wipe it off there isn't that shiny silver finish.Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
What turns a bronze color, the tip? What solder are you using? It should be a nice silver color.
the tip turns a bronze color when I wipe the solder off. I'm using the Kester solder recommend in the thread. Basically when I'm applying it it begins to glob up on the tip. When I wipe it off the tip has the bronze look to it and when I turn it off after and the tip looks greyish with a slight blue to it. I kind of feel as if the solder isn't adhering to the tip.
What do you mean by wiping off the tip? Do you mean you stick it into some bronze wool? Or actually wipe off the solder with a wet sponge? If you're cleaning the solder off the tip thoroughly, then you're not really "tinning" it--there needs to remain a layer of solder over the tip--that's what will give it that shiny silver finish too.
By wiping off the tip I mean just wiping off the excess solder on a wet sponge. I'm kind of confused as I put the solder onto the tip and it tends to glob up and when I wipe it off there isn't that shiny silver finish.Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
What turns a bronze color, the tip? What solder are you using? It should be a nice silver color.
the tip turns a bronze color when I wipe the solder off. I'm using the Kester solder recommend in the thread. Basically when I'm applying it it begins to glob up on the tip. When I wipe it off the tip has the bronze look to it and when I turn it off after and the tip looks greyish with a slight blue to it. I kind of feel as if the solder isn't adhering to the tip.
What do you mean by wiping off the tip? Do you mean you stick it into some bronze wool? Or actually wipe off the solder with a wet sponge? If you're cleaning the solder off the tip thoroughly, then you're not really "tinning" it--there needs to remain a layer of solder over the tip--that's what will give it that shiny silver finish too.
Perhaps the tip is done...
Overheating and "aggressive" flux can kill the plating.
By wiping off the tip I mean just wiping off the excess solder on a wet sponge. I'm kind of confused as I put the solder onto the tip and it tends to glob up and when I wipe it off there isn't that shiny silver finish.Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
What turns a bronze color, the tip? What solder are you using? It should be a nice silver color.
the tip turns a bronze color when I wipe the solder off. I'm using the Kester solder recommend in the thread. Basically when I'm applying it it begins to glob up on the tip. When I wipe it off the tip has the bronze look to it and when I turn it off after and the tip looks greyish with a slight blue to it. I kind of feel as if the solder isn't adhering to the tip.
What do you mean by wiping off the tip? Do you mean you stick it into some bronze wool? Or actually wipe off the solder with a wet sponge? If you're cleaning the solder off the tip thoroughly, then you're not really "tinning" it--there needs to remain a layer of solder over the tip--that's what will give it that shiny silver finish too.
Perhaps the tip is done...
Overheating and "aggressive" flux can kill the plating.
Kind of odd since this happened the first time I actually used the iron and the tip and iron were brand new.
It is Mkawa's beta kit. Comes with the edsyn cl1481 and the temp is set to the kester melting point. Unsure on the exact tip model but it's a small chisel tip.By wiping off the tip I mean just wiping off the excess solder on a wet sponge. I'm kind of confused as I put the solder onto the tip and it tends to glob up and when I wipe it off there isn't that shiny silver finish.Guys, when I'm tinning my tip with solder, I notice it turns into a bronze color when I wipe the solder off the iron.
What turns a bronze color, the tip? What solder are you using? It should be a nice silver color.
the tip turns a bronze color when I wipe the solder off. I'm using the Kester solder recommend in the thread. Basically when I'm applying it it begins to glob up on the tip. When I wipe it off the tip has the bronze look to it and when I turn it off after and the tip looks greyish with a slight blue to it. I kind of feel as if the solder isn't adhering to the tip.
What do you mean by wiping off the tip? Do you mean you stick it into some bronze wool? Or actually wipe off the solder with a wet sponge? If you're cleaning the solder off the tip thoroughly, then you're not really "tinning" it--there needs to remain a layer of solder over the tip--that's what will give it that shiny silver finish too.
Perhaps the tip is done...
Overheating and "aggressive" flux can kill the plating.
Kind of odd since this happened the first time I actually used the iron and the tip and iron were brand new.
Weird! Whats your exact setup? (solder, tip, temperature...)
This sounds really interesting. Could you kindly post a picture illustrating the position of the notch?
would it be easier and/or cheaper to do this and buy a soldapult and a new tip or spend $15 for the radioshack desolder iron with pump?
would it be easier and/or cheaper to do this and buy a soldapult and a new tip or spend $15 for the radioshack desolder iron with pump?
Cheaper, no.
Easier, you bet your ass. I just desoldered two full size keyboards with a Soldapullt. When I used to use the RS iron w/bulb, I would get hand cramps and have to change tips every 100 switches or less.
if you get an unclear desolder in any situation, the best trick is actually the least intuitive. ADD solder to the joint, a whole bunch, then melt and use your solder sucker tool again. do this enough times and you will get a really clean desolder for mechanical and metallurgic reasons i won't go into.
Thanks for your pict sir,i understand now :DThis sounds really interesting. Could you kindly post a picture illustrating the position of the notch?
Sure, here you go:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
if you get an unclear desolder in any situation, the best trick is actually the least intuitive. ADD solder to the joint, a whole bunch, then melt and use your solder sucker tool again. do this enough times and you will get a really clean desolder for mechanical and metallurgic reasons i won't go into.
if you get an unclear desolder in any situation, the best trick is actually the least intuitive. ADD solder to the joint, a whole bunch, then melt and use your solder sucker tool again. do this enough times and you will get a really clean desolder for mechanical and metallurgic reasons i won't go into.
Sadly that's still not quite going to get all the solder out for complete through-hole copper inserts in double-sided PCBs like Filcos. I did that initially with my first Filco PCB and spent forever adding solder, sucking it out, adding more, using a braid, etc. Tiny filaments remained deep inside the holes, and Filco even advertises that their solder goes all the way to the other side of the PCB. It might be easier to get it all out with better tools. My TRiK PCB was VERY easy to desolder (switches and LEDs) compared to Filco.
if you get an unclear desolder in any situation, the best trick is actually the least intuitive. ADD solder to the joint, a whole bunch, then melt and use your solder sucker tool again. do this enough times and you will get a really clean desolder for mechanical and metallurgic reasons i won't go into.
Sadly that's still not quite going to get all the solder out for complete through-hole copper inserts in double-sided PCBs like Filcos. I did that initially with my first Filco PCB and spent forever adding solder, sucking it out, adding more, using a braid, etc. Tiny filaments remained deep inside the holes, and Filco even advertises that their solder goes all the way to the other side of the PCB. It might be easier to get it all out with better tools. My TRiK PCB was VERY easy to desolder (switches and LEDs) compared to Filco.
if you get an unclear desolder in any situation, the best trick is actually the least intuitive. ADD solder to the joint, a whole bunch, then melt and use your solder sucker tool again. do this enough times and you will get a really clean desolder for mechanical and metallurgic reasons i won't go into.
Sadly that's still not quite going to get all the solder out for complete through-hole copper inserts in double-sided PCBs like Filcos. I did that initially with my first Filco PCB and spent forever adding solder, sucking it out, adding more, using a braid, etc. Tiny filaments remained deep inside the holes, and Filco even advertises that their solder goes all the way to the other side of the PCB. It might be easier to get it all out with better tools. My TRiK PCB was VERY easy to desolder (switches and LEDs) compared to Filco.
Yeah, those Filco PCBs are a real pain to desolder. You're bound to lose a couple pads in the process.
What is the recommended method of desoldering? Braid? Sucker?
This sounds really interesting. Could you kindly post a picture illustrating the position of the notch?
Sure, here you go:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I'm in the UK and need recommendations on a soldering iron / soldering station plus anything I'd need for desoldering switches on a keyboard. The cheaper the better really since it's not going to be used like every day but don't want horrible tat at the same time. Got £35 Amazon.co.uk credit as well if anything on there is good.
I'm in the UK and need recommendations on a soldering iron / soldering station plus anything I'd need for desoldering switches on a keyboard. The cheaper the better really since it's not going to be used like every day but don't want horrible tat at the same time. Got £35 Amazon.co.uk credit as well if anything on there is good.
This seems to have good reviews, and is probably very similar to the Yihua 936: 60W ESD PROTECTION LCD SOLDERING IRON STATION NEW (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004X25LW8/)
Then you just need a Soldapullt and some Kester 44 from mkawa. :thumb:
I'm in the UK and need recommendations on a soldering iron / soldering station plus anything I'd need for desoldering switches on a keyboard. The cheaper the better really since it's not going to be used like every day but don't want horrible tat at the same time. Got £35 Amazon.co.uk credit as well if anything on there is good.
This seems to have good reviews, and is probably very similar to the Yihua 936: 60W ESD PROTECTION LCD SOLDERING IRON STATION NEW (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004X25LW8/)
Then you just need a Soldapullt and some Kester 44 from mkawa. :thumb:
To be honest for the time being all it's going to be used for is to desolder one faulty Cherry MX switch and replace it with another.
I'm trying to find an alternative to that Kester 44 solder wire since it has to be ordered from the US (Prefer something that can be bought in the UK for delivery purposes)
I'm trying to find an alternative to that Kester 44 solder wire since it has to be ordered from the US (Prefer something that can be bought in the UK for delivery purposes)
I'm trying to find an alternative to that Kester 44 solder wire since it has to be ordered from the US (Prefer something that can be bought in the UK for delivery purposes)
This (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008FK64CU/) should be fine.
This (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004V8DHQG/) solder wick (braid) should work for desoldering tasks.
If you really only ever intend to use it to desolder/solder one faulty switch, you could probably get by just fine with this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0009VX232/) or even this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005HNOKR4/) soldering pencil.
Would something like this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B005ZEM7YI/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1) be good for soldering switches and whatnot? If so, what size tip(s) should I get?
Was hoping it'd be on Amazon since I have like £35 credit to use on there.
if you get an unclear desolder in any situation, the best trick is actually the least intuitive. ADD solder to the joint, a whole bunch, then melt and use your solder sucker tool again. do this enough times and you will get a really clean desolder for mechanical and metallurgic reasons i won't go into.
Sadly that's still not quite going to get all the solder out for complete through-hole copper inserts in double-sided PCBs like Filcos. I did that initially with my first Filco PCB and spent forever adding solder, sucking it out, adding more, using a braid, etc. Tiny filaments remained deep inside the holes, and Filco even advertises that their solder goes all the way to the other side of the PCB. It might be easier to get it all out with better tools. My TRiK PCB was VERY easy to desolder (switches and LEDs) compared to Filco.
Yeah, those Filco PCBs are a real pain to desolder. You're bound to lose a couple pads in the process.
Uggg... I have a filco that I want to replace the plate on. Not looking forward to this now... :( Any tips will be much appreciated.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that the main difference between Kester 44 (63/37) and other 63/37 solders is that Kester 44 has 3.3% flux and most of the other 63/37 solders have 2% flux.the kester 44 datasheet explains it best: https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kester.com%2Fdownload%2F44%2520Flux-Cored%2520Wire%2520Data%2520Sheet.pdf
anyway, the other problem with kester 44 is not it's not very stable compared to most fluxed solders. it has a shelf life of 2-3 years, and needs to be kept within safe humidity and temperature ranges that are smaller than lead free mildly fluxed solders.Hm. Can you elaborate about this point? I’ve read a bunch of random comments online from people saying they’ve used the same spool of Kester 44 for decades. What happens to expired flux/solder?
in the best case, the flux just becomes less active. the activators in it are usually either halides or fluorides. i can't remember exactly what Kester RA uses, but i don't believe it uses halides or if it does they neutralize on vaporization and aren't left in the residue.anyway, the other problem with kester 44 is not it's not very stable compared to most fluxed solders. it has a shelf life of 2-3 years, and needs to be kept within safe humidity and temperature ranges that are smaller than lead free mildly fluxed solders.Hm. Can you elaborate about this point? I’ve read a bunch of random comments online from people saying they’ve used the same spool of Kester 44 for decades. What happens to expired flux/solder?
To clean I pour a quite bit of IPA into PCB then scrub down with small child tooth brush and wipe with kimwipe. I don't rub PCB with kimwipe just soak up excess. So I think kleenex also works you don't need kimwipe necessarily.
It seems sufficient amount of IPA and brush scrub are important. You will not able to give IPA enough with Bonpen, I used small bottle and pour. I use Bonpen to apply flux and like it.
To clean I pour a quite bit of IPA into PCB then scrub down with small child tooth brush and wipe with kimwipe. I don't rub PCB with kimwipe just soak up excess. So I think kleenex also works you don't need kimwipe necessarily.
It seems sufficient amount of IPA and brush scrub are important. You will not able to give IPA enough with Bonpen, I used small bottle and pour. I use Bonpen to apply flux and like it.
You probably shouldn't clean your PCB's with beer.
/s
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?
Did you change their color? The provided voltage for them might be too high or to low. Also, did you maybe solder them in the wrong way around?
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?
Did you change their color? The provided voltage for them might be too high or to low. Also, did you maybe solder them in the wrong way around?
I didn't change the color, but I'm willing to bet you've come across the problem ;). I didn't solder them in a particular way because I didn't see any markings on the LEDs themselves. How can I tell which way is the right way?
Is there some particular magic to soldering in LEDs that's different than the switches? The joints for LEDs are definitely smaller; does this make it easier to mess up?
Did you change their color? The provided voltage for them might be too high or to low. Also, did you maybe solder them in the wrong way around?
I didn't change the color, but I'm willing to bet you've come across the problem ;). I didn't solder them in a particular way because I didn't see any markings on the LEDs themselves. How can I tell which way is the right way?
Learn about the polarity of LEDs here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40501.5450#post_BBB
just a quick teaser of the learn to solder kit's solder station that i've been designing:Oh yeah, that things looks beautiful.
Ah no wonder mine took slightly longer, I was using 240. Oops! Photekq this is going to be a shot in the dark but you don't have any Costar stabilizer inserts do you? I'm trying to source some from within Europe as I'd like to try and get them ASAP.http://www.keyboardco.com/product/4-filco-white-stabilizers.asp
They're OOS :(Ah, darn. Didn't realise that. Sorry I couldn't help you out :-[
They're OOS :(Ah, darn. Didn't realise that. Sorry I couldn't help you out :-[
does wasd not ship internationally?
also, mackem, great desoldering job. if you want to take the rest of the solder on the pad off, you can either use braid or the clever way is to put MORE solder on, then soldapullt it all up.
I fixed the issue with the QFR; I scraped the trace to expose the copper and managed to solder to get it working. It looks abysmal but it works. Only issue now is that the top cover is warped so I need a new one!You are going to have a hard time getting a top that isn't warped, it doesn't really matter once the top is actually on the keyboard though. (although this could just be that it was hot where I live every time I ordered one and the ups trucks might have warped them)
I fixed the issue with the QFR; I scraped the trace to expose the copper and managed to solder to get it working. It looks abysmal but it works. Only issue now is that the top cover is warped so I need a new one!You are going to have a hard time getting a top that isn't warped, it doesn't really matter once the top is actually on the keyboard though. (although this could just be that it was hot where I live every time I ordered one and the ups trucks might have warped them)
From my experience with QFR's (4+) I have not seen a non-warped top. The new replacements included, it seems they intended them to be warped. The tabs will wear with removal and replacement cycles causing the creaking / clicking issues.I fixed the issue with the QFR; I scraped the trace to expose the copper and managed to solder to get it working. It looks abysmal but it works. Only issue now is that the top cover is warped so I need a new one!You are going to have a hard time getting a top that isn't warped, it doesn't really matter once the top is actually on the keyboard though. (although this could just be that it was hot where I live every time I ordered one and the ups trucks might have warped them)
One of the little tab things on the top side of the case won't clip into place properly so the top left part of the keyboard makes an awful creaking / clicking noise if I press any of the keys near there.
Well... My dad just gave me a Weller WS81. I have a feeling this is huge overkill for my usage.
But its time for me how to properly solder, guess I'll be around this thread a lot. :o
I just desoldered the two leds on my filco... It took a good 30 mins to get them to come off, I realized I needed to prop the board up and just pull each side out while I heated the solder because there was no way all the solder was coming out.
I am using that exact desolder pump, I always desolder switches first try, but those leds were crazy.
I desoldered the leds on a QFR as well and they were incredibly easy, filcos use solder through the enter hole which makes desoldering difficult. (this is what I have read)I am using that exact desolder pump, I always desolder switches first try, but those leds were crazy.
Huh, weird! I suppose it also depends on the PCB.
I desoldered the leds on a QFR as well and they were incredibly easy, filcos use solder through the enter hole which makes desoldering difficult. (this is what I have read)
When people in this thread recommend the Soldapullt, is there a particular model they mean? Because I just received a DS017 which explosively disassembled itself the first time I tried to use it. I pressed the plunger down the way the package shows and the plunger return spring popped out of the side. Now it was locked in place so I pressed the trigger to release it, which resulted in the trigger launching itself across the room. Even if I can put this back together I don't know where the trigger spring has gotten to. :(
I just desoldered the two leds on my filco... It took a good 30 mins to get them to come off, I realized I needed to prop the board up and just pull each side out while I heated the solder because there was no way all the solder was coming out.
When people in this thread recommend the Soldapullt, is there a particular model they mean? Because I just received a DS017 which explosively disassembled itself the first time I tried to use it. I pressed the plunger down the way the package shows and the plunger return spring popped out of the side. Now it was locked in place so I pressed the trigger to release it, which resulted in the trigger launching itself across the room. Even if I can put this back together I don't know where the trigger spring has gotten to. :(this is impossible on a genuine DS017 for a number of reasons. i'm sorry to say that you definitely have a counterfeit :(
I just desoldered the two leds on my filco... It took a good 30 mins to get them to come off, I realized I needed to prop the board up and just pull each side out while I heated the solder because there was no way all the solder was coming out.I think this is best way,i've tried and succesed i used pump desolder regular :)
Sure, here you go:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Has anyone used this solder for resoldering switches?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU (http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU)
I'm getting a refund on the Soldapullt, I bought it on Amazon from seller LDBMART. For reference, this is what I received (minus the missing trigger spring): http://i.imgur.com/6AOI80S.jpgthat is an extremely good fake. however, it is a fake. a couple things give it away. i will grab a pullt and take a couple pics in a minute.
Would 20' be enough to solder a 60% or TKL keyboard? Assuming MX Cherry switches, diodes, LEDs and resistors.Has anyone used this solder for resoldering switches?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU (http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU)
Use this one instead:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-60-40-031-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/321229207049
actually, i'm going to have to take issue with that. that solder is not eutectic, nor is it thin enough in diameter for clean joints on small DIP parts.Has anyone used this solder for resoldering switches?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU (http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-am31605-4oz-032elec-Solder/dp/B000G36BYU)
Use this one instead:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-60-40-031-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/321229207049
Oops, it's my bad--I linked the wrong kind :( This is the one I meant, from the same seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-63-37-031-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/221299280136?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3386770908
There's also a thinner kind:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Feet-of-Kester-44-Solder-Wire-63-37-025-Rosin-Core-FREE-SHIPPING-/221280993487?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33856000cf
The first link I originally posted was what someone asked me if it was okay, and I had that saved for the seller :( Sorry!
Ahh. Thanks for the info mkawa. I'm a total soldering noob :P
I guess I'll probably have to buy the $30 roll (amazon) unless anyone knows somewhere better to get it. Any recommendations would be very helpful.
Also, is 0.031'' too big for switch soldering?
0.031" is just fine for switch soldering and larger projects.
You can wait for mkawa to reopen the geekhackers store for fresh cuts of Kester 44 off 1lb spools. He said so above:
"geekhackers.org will be selling unexpired solder, 30g for about 10$ including a dispenser. i have actually already sold this package to a number of people on the forums. if you can wait a little bit, it will go up on the store and not be cheated out of 5 hard earned dollars"
If you want to do smaller scale soldering, 0.02" size will give you much greater control. ~0.03" is okay for just switches and a few LEDs. If you need solder asap, you can always get some MG Chemicals 63/37 variety. I've gotten a couple rolls from Amazon and used some for a keyboard.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425DZGK/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(It was $2.85 when I ordered it, but Amazon likes to randomly raise and lower prices on stuff over time)
But ~0.02" is significantly nicer to use though along with a fine tip soldering iron, as you'll make much neater joints (and I don't think MG Chemicals offers that diameter for their 63/37 solder). Kester 44 also has a more active flux in it for cleaner joints.
yes, that's correct.Ahh. Thanks for the info mkawa. I'm a total soldering noob :P
I guess I'll probably have to buy the $30 roll (amazon) unless anyone knows somewhere better to get it. Any recommendations would be very helpful.
Also, is 0.031'' too big for switch soldering?
mkawa actually sells it. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but you can probably just PM him to place an order :).
in the US only the 601 is available and it is in the 70$ range. i can't recommend the 888d anymore after my experience with it. first, it's precise but not accurate. the microcontroller is very good at grabbing a temperature value from the temperature measurement device, but the temperature measurement device is extremely inaccurate over time, its calibration wanders to the point of uselessness. second, the heater is simply too small for the amount of power it dissipates. at my duty cycle, i was looking at a new heater every 8-9 months maximum, and worse, the heater is soldered directly to the iron board. there are no quick disconnects (unlikely, say, the 808).
re: the non-temperature controlled wp35 and the hakko dash line: both heat up to a maximum of 450C, but actual temperature will fluctuate due to the lack of temperature regulation hardware. this is actually a fine thing if you use your iron properly. however, it's a little hotter than i'd like. the cl1481 maxes out at about 400C, which i'm much more comfortable with. that is hot enough to desolder dreadful lead-free solder and replace it with leaded solder (yay), but it's significantly more difficult to burn a board at a max of 400C.
When can we get one of your kits? My body is ready.
When can we get one of your kits? My body is ready.
Now (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52851.0).
Sounds like you're touching the iron to the PCB for too long. You want to just make the contact with switch pins and a bit of contact with the rings framing the hole the pins go into and for only so long as to melt the solder. Be ready with a soldapullt in your other hand and suck in the molten solder asap. That shouldn't lift any pads. If you still have some filaments remaining deep in the holes and can't get it out easily, heat JUST the switch pins with your soldering iron and pull on the switch from the other side (I prop them with a small flat screw driver until the switches pop out, as I heat one pin then the other, then back to the first). There's no reason to hold your iron on the PCB for long, as the solder melts pretty quickly. If you use a soldering braid, that could definitely damage the surface of the traces from overheating.
Can you post a photo? Is the ring physically detached from the trace or is it just looking lifted? Or is it a copper insert that was removed from the other side of the PCB?
Pokers are the biggest pains in the ass to desolder. Don't feel too bad.
I've pulled pads on pokers with everything I've ever used to desolder, including my fx-808.
Pokers are the biggest pains in the ass to desolder. Don't feel too bad.
I've pulled pads on pokers with everything I've ever used to desolder, including my fx-808.
That makes me feel quite a bit better, at least. Since you seem to have some experience desoldering pokers, do you have anything to add to Photoelectric's suggestions? (They seem great, but I figure more opinions/experience can't hurt.)
Any idea where I could purchase SMD capacitors in Canada besides mouser? Mouser charges $20 on all orders to Canada and I only need like 1 piece plus maybe 2 extras. Or if anyone has any SMD capacitors they could sell to me and send my way that would be awesome. For reference the part # is VJ0805Y104JXXAC
Mouser page: http://ca.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=ZbfMKpEdk/fFmaIB3w5%252bbA==
how about newark/element13? they're actually UK based and probably have a CA warehouse..Newark/element14 seems to have a minimum order of 3000.
Any idea where I could purchase SMD capacitors in Canada besides mouser? Mouser charges $20 on all orders to Canada and I only need like 1 piece plus maybe 2 extras. Or if anyone has any SMD capacitors they could sell to me and send my way that would be awesome. For reference the part # is VJ0805Y104JXXAC
Mouser page: http://ca.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=ZbfMKpEdk/fFmaIB3w5%252bbA==
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-0805-1uf-25V-10-X7R-CERAMIC-MLCC-CAPACITOR-VJ0805Y104KXXAMT-VITRAMON-/111047522958?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19daf2ba8eAny idea where I could purchase SMD capacitors in Canada besides mouser? Mouser charges $20 on all orders to Canada and I only need like 1 piece plus maybe 2 extras. Or if anyone has any SMD capacitors they could sell to me and send my way that would be awesome. For reference the part # is VJ0805Y104JXXAC
Mouser page: http://ca.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=ZbfMKpEdk/fFmaIB3w5%252bbA==
There's a ton of them on fleabay. Search for 0.1 uf 0805. Add X7R to the search if you need the same tolerances (unlikely).. if you need 25v, voltage can also be higher (50v, etc) without a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-0805-1uf-25V-10-X7R-CERAMIC-MLCC-CAPACITOR-VJ0805Y104KXXAMT-VITRAMON-/111047522958?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19daf2ba8eAny idea where I could purchase SMD capacitors in Canada besides mouser? Mouser charges $20 on all orders to Canada and I only need like 1 piece plus maybe 2 extras. Or if anyone has any SMD capacitors they could sell to me and send my way that would be awesome. For reference the part # is VJ0805Y104JXXAC
Mouser page: http://ca.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=ZbfMKpEdk/fFmaIB3w5%252bbA==
There's a ton of them on fleabay. Search for 0.1 uf 0805. Add X7R to the search if you need the same tolerances (unlikely).. if you need 25v, voltage can also be higher (50v, etc) without a problem.
would this be along the lines of what I'm looking for?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-0805-1uf-25V-10-X7R-CERAMIC-MLCC-CAPACITOR-VJ0805Y104KXXAMT-VITRAMON-/111047522958?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19daf2ba8eAny idea where I could purchase SMD capacitors in Canada besides mouser? Mouser charges $20 on all orders to Canada and I only need like 1 piece plus maybe 2 extras. Or if anyone has any SMD capacitors they could sell to me and send my way that would be awesome. For reference the part # is VJ0805Y104JXXAC
Mouser page: http://ca.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=ZbfMKpEdk/fFmaIB3w5%252bbA==
There's a ton of them on fleabay. Search for 0.1 uf 0805. Add X7R to the search if you need the same tolerances (unlikely).. if you need 25v, voltage can also be higher (50v, etc) without a problem.
would this be along the lines of what I'm looking for?
Anything here (http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_odkw=0805+%28%220.1%22%2C%22.1%22%29+uf+x7r&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&LH_PrefLoc=3&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.X100+0805+%28%220.1%22%2C%22.1%22%29+uf+x7r&_nkw=100+0805+%28%220.1%22%2C%22.1%22%29+uf+x7r&_sacat=0) will work, just go with whatever is cheapest total to ship..
How worthwhile is it to get tin tipper over using solder to tin your tip?
can someone recommend a good solder paste? I can only find flux paste on amazon :confused:buy a mortar and pestle instead. mix fresh rosin with solder and grind away. tada! fresh solder paste. a small stainless steel probe or the fine tip of a spudger can be used to lay it down on traces for hot air.
can someone recommend a good solder paste? I can only find flux paste on amazon :confused:buy a mortar and pestle instead. mix fresh rosin with solder and grind away. tada! fresh solder paste.
lol wut? no. solder paste is small balls of solder suspended in whatever flux concoction. What you suggest would simply boil away the flux before it had a chance to do its job. if you dont want to use solder paste, you can always hand solder.can someone recommend a good solder paste? I can only find flux paste on amazon :confused:buy a mortar and pestle instead. mix fresh rosin with solder and grind away. tada! fresh solder paste.
Would I be able to get the same effect without actually using a mortar and pestle by just sticking a glob of flux on the end of my solder wire and then bringing the solder down over the top of my tip? I feel like that would be a lot less work for the same effect, but maybe I am just crazy...
How worthwhile is it to get tin tipper over using solder to tin your tip?what is tin tipper? Ive never heard of it. Google says its toy trucks.
lol wut? no. solder paste is small balls of solder suspended in whatever flux concoction. What you suggest would simply boil away the flux before it had a chance to do its job. if you dont want to use solder paste, you can always hand solder.can someone recommend a good solder paste? I can only find flux paste on amazon :confused:buy a mortar and pestle instead. mix fresh rosin with solder and grind away. tada! fresh solder paste.
Would I be able to get the same effect without actually using a mortar and pestle by just sticking a glob of flux on the end of my solder wire and then bringing the solder down over the top of my tip? I feel like that would be a lot less work for the same effect, but maybe I am just crazy...
Sorry I was confusing solder paste with flux. My bad, I'm a noob... :) Not sure how my thought process is different from just using RA core solder which you are suggesting though. I have been using RA core solder to tin my tips and I am happy with the result, so I guess you have a point. :)
Sorry I was confusing solder paste with flux. My bad, I'm a noob... :) Not sure how my thought process is different from just using RA core solder which you are suggesting though. I have been using RA core solder to tin my tips and I am happy with the result, so I guess you have a point. :)
solder paste is for smt soldering in a reflow oven. it has nothing to do with soldering irons. Im sorry if my post was confusing
Does anyone have thoughts regarding the Weller WX1?YUCK
Does anyone have thoughts regarding the Weller WX1?YUCK
that's all i've got.
re: parak's comments, one thing to remember about production line stations, which the wes51, metcals and edsyns all fall under is that they're designed to be on basically 24/7. one particular point i take issue with which considers this is time from off to op temp. it is simply irrelevant in a production environment as long as thermal recovery is excellent. the iron is never turned off, so why would the line manager care how long it takes to go from off to op. what does matter is standby, comfort when the heater has been on for the last 24 hours, and heater lifetime, as those are the most expensive consumables of any soldering unit. these stations are all excellent as far as those metrics are concerned.
finally, i want to make one argument against parak's suggestions which is that SMT parts more complex than simple passives should really just be worked with hot air. it's the safest, simplest way to deal with them, and allows proper SMD layouts. instead of some DIY boards that have a little SMD segment where they couldn't find a DIP package for the parts they wanted and then a vast expanse of thru-holes.
re: parak's comments, one thing to remember about production line stations, which the wes51, metcals and edsyns all fall under is that they're designed to be on basically 24/7. one particular point i take issue with which considers this is time from off to op temp. it is simply irrelevant in a production environment as long as thermal recovery is excellent. the iron is never turned off, so why would the line manager care how long it takes to go from off to op. what does matter is standby, comfort when the heater has been on for the last 24 hours, and heater lifetime, as those are the most expensive consumables of any soldering unit. these stations are all excellent as far as those metrics are concerned.While I dont disagree with any of this, I would like to point out that OKI/metcal use the short heatup time as a selling point: They say that since it heats up quickly, you can turn it off when you go on your 30 minute break. This should extend tip life, among other things.
Does anyone have recommendations for a decent multimeter for under $30, if such a thing can be found? There seem to be a lot on Amazon for that range, but it's difficult to say which are good and which are not so good. I started reading reviews on one that had a 4.2 out of 5 overall rating, and apparently it has a lot of issues at the same time.
I need it for basic tasks, such as checking proper contact for SMD parts, etc.
I need it for basic tasks, such as checking proper contact for SMD parts, etc.as long as you know its cheap and you know not to trust it, most any one will be fine for generall faffing around. just dont expect it to be accurate to more than 1 digit.
Does anyone have recommendations for a decent multimeter for under $30, if such a thing can be found? There seem to be a lot on Amazon for that range, but it's difficult to say which are good and which are not so good. I started reading reviews on one that had a 4.2 out of 5 overall rating, and apparently it has a lot of issues at the same time.
I need it for basic tasks, such as checking proper contact for SMD parts, etc.
Looking at this little guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-MN35-Digital-Mini-MultiMeter/dp/B0012VWR20
Extech MN35. Reviews seem pretty good in terms of accuracy.
Ok, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Ok, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Worst potato pics 2014!!! Focus man!!! Focus!!! :))
Good job btw on your first project. Many more to come I am sure. :P
Ok, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Worst potato pics 2014!!! Focus man!!! Focus!!! :))
Good job btw on your first project. Many more to come I am sure. :P
Thx! Btw, for the focus, imagine these where the 2 best pictures out of 20+
I lol'd out loudOk, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Worst potato pics 2014!!! Focus man!!! Focus!!! :))
Good job btw on your first project. Many more to come I am sure. :P
Thx! Btw, for the focus, imagine these where the 2 best pictures out of 20+
Ok, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Worst potato pics 2014!!! Focus man!!! Focus!!! :))
Good job btw on your first project. Many more to come I am sure. :P
Thx! Btw, for the focus, imagine these where the 2 best pictures out of 20+
WTF camera are you using? Is it literally using a potato for power? I am spoiled in the camera department, so I should shut up now. :P
Ok, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Worst potato pics 2014!!! Focus man!!! Focus!!! :))
Good job btw on your first project. Many more to come I am sure. :P
Thx! Btw, for the focus, imagine these where the 2 best pictures out of 20+
WTF camera are you using? Is it literally using a potato for power? I am spoiled in the camera department, so I should shut up now. :P
Sorry JPG, I am an ass, so I will make it up to you.
PM me your mailing address and I will send you a first generation digital camera for FREE. :) It is not a good camera by any stretch, but it does focus (sometimes). Hint, use the Macro setting when shooting close. :)
Here is a picture that it took to prove it works.
(Attachment Link)
And here is the camera I am offering you.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Ok, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Worst potato pics 2014!!! Focus man!!! Focus!!! :))
Good job btw on your first project. Many more to come I am sure. :P
Thx! Btw, for the focus, imagine these where the 2 best pictures out of 20+
WTF camera are you using? Is it literally using a potato for power? I am spoiled in the camera department, so I should shut up now. :P
Sorry JPG, I am an ass, so I will make it up to you.
PM me your mailing address and I will send you a first generation digital camera for FREE. :) It is not a good camera by any stretch, but it does focus (sometimes). Hint, use the Macro setting when shooting close. :)
Here is a picture that it took to prove it works.
(Attachment Link)
And here is the camera I am offering you.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Haha, that's a funny string of events. Also, you should clean that keyboard. :thumb:
Ok, tried my soldering stuff for the first time tonight.
My **** stuff I had to practice on was ... **** stuff lol. I still managed to somewhat get the hang of it even if I needed to use a much greater temperature to try to unsolder the **** stuff.
So I am still a n00b, but at least I managed to solder my first real project: My techkey card!!! And it works and does not look disastrous at all.
Well it works well, except that when you have an hybrid English/French setting on your computer, well the card does not know! So / appears as é. I will leave it as is for now.
Also, trying to align some plate mount switches on a pcb with no plate all while soldering = impossible for me.
I am still very happy with my success!
Here's some pictures (damn card is so shinny under the light, too hard for my ****ty camera)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Worst potato pics 2014!!! Focus man!!! Focus!!! :))
Good job btw on your first project. Many more to come I am sure. :P
Thx! Btw, for the focus, imagine these where the 2 best pictures out of 20+
WTF camera are you using? Is it literally using a potato for power? I am spoiled in the camera department, so I should shut up now. :P
Sorry JPG, I am an ass, so I will make it up to you.
PM me your mailing address and I will send you a first generation digital camera for FREE. :) It is not a good camera by any stretch, but it does focus (sometimes). Hint, use the Macro setting when shooting close. :)
Here is a picture that it took to prove it works.
(Attachment Link)
And here is the camera I am offering you.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Auto should be fine for focusing. You're just not focusing somehow. Are you pushing the shot button halfway down to focus before releasing and pushing it again to take your photo? Might be you're holding the camera too closely to the card, so it can't focus (there's always a minimum focus distance with cameras).
2020 is pretty fantastic for comfort and general ergonomics. it's quite small, just a 6" diam control station with all the controls, including the trim pots for calibration up front and clearly marked. as i have mentioned before, the edsyn pods are amazing. they help contain heat so that very little power is used at idle and are extremely easy to clean. you just put a new piece of wax paper-ish stuff in it when the only one is pockmarked with molten solder marks. there is a standby mode that brings temperature down to min in one press then heats the iron up again in a few seconds on second press. the heater is partially exposed, unlike the fully sheathed AC heaters in some of the other units; both designs are good, but basically what's happening is that they're designing to the size of the heater. smaller heaters should be fully sheathed for strength and larger heaters (the 2020 heater is extremely large, and that it and the build is what you're paying for) can be exposed for tip contact and to minimize the effect of differential thermal expansion.
i've done a full take-apart, and it turns out that there is undocumented functionality in this board. as well. it was originally meant to be the basis for an all-in-one unit (and may still end up being that) that would do hot-air, desolder and solder all in the same station. most of the functionality is still there, and if you want to hack on it (although you void your warranty obviously), the mcu debug port is happily sitting open at the back of the unit.
anyway, for comfort, you really want a big fat handle and an appropriate amount of power going through the tip. a 50W heater that is very large and has lots of surface area is going to be a lot better than a 150W element which is tiny along with a handle that's very very small. i can see how some people might think "SMT devices are tiny! therefore i need a pinpoint tip!" but i think they're missing the point and have not learned to solder properly. soldering is about surface area. the more surface area you have in contact with a heater, the more efficient your thermal junction is going to be and the higher the diffuse temperature is going to be across the two materials. so you don't want to throw power into an iron willy nilly. that's just going to result in a lot of burned out components. you want to use as little power as possible to reach your process temp and then tune the amount of surface area in contact with the joint via different tip shapes and sizes.
finally, the usb feature on this and the weller wxp series is just plain stupid.
i don't know if there's a local aus distributor for edsyn products and my POCs won't get back to me until monday, but suspect there is. that said, i may actually be able to beat their price even after shipping. i really love these stations. they are simple and straightforward and have everything you need and nothing you don't. the layout, even internally is just ridiculously clean. this was actually one of Bill Fortune's (Bill invented the soldapullt) last projects, and it's just this beautiful paean to contact soldering.
tjcaustin also has one and loves it just as much as i do. if he wants to chime in...
Well I should say the JBC station is top of my list, unless I can find a very good reason not to choose it. :p I actually invested in a decent stand alone hot air unit not too long ago.
The options can be quite limited here, especially when trying to work to a budget, but I'd rather get it local in case of any issues, shipping time alone makes it a pain.
How do you find the 2020 for comfort? I prefer the look of the JBC handle, I've got a buggered shoulder though, so smaller/lighter may be better for me. (I'm getting very good at soldering left handed recently! :o )
An Edsyn would have been on the top of my list if they were available from one of the major Aus retailers. Anyway tomorrow is a day off here so i'll have to order something by Tuesday.
Thanks for your input Mkawa. Time for me to go looking at the Edsyn site again
I was also checking JBC and edsyn, but in the end I chose ersa, because of lower price and the small and light iron, first of all.
what brand of flux do you guys recommend? there isnt a flux link on the first page with a recommended brand.
also super lube is super lube right? are there different formulas with the Super Lube brand?
i was going to buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391022505&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube
what brand of flux do you guys recommend? there isnt a flux link on the first page with a recommended brand.
also super lube is super lube right? are there different formulas with the Super Lube brand?
i was going to buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391022505&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube (http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391022505&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube)
What will you be using the SuperLube for, lubing stabilizers?
what brand of flux do you guys recommend? there isnt a flux link on the first page with a recommended brand.
also super lube is super lube right? are there different formulas with the Super Lube brand?
i was going to buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391022505&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube (http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391022505&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube)
What will you be using the SuperLube for, lubing stabilizers?
jd don't you lube your switches with it??
/me runs and hides
what brand of flux do you guys recommend? there isnt a flux link on the first page with a recommended brand.
thanks parak.
JD and Spam i want to use the super lube for Ergo Clears that i intend to install on my ergo dox.
thanks parak.
JD and Spam i want to use the super lube for Ergo Clears that i intend to install on my ergo dox.
Please use Krytox instead. :(
thanks parak.
JD and Spam i want to use the super lube for Ergo Clears that i intend to install on my ergo dox.
Please use Krytox instead. :(
any reason why JD? i already bought some SuperLube but it was like 3 bucks so whatever. just curious on why you are repping that brand over the seemingly favorite SuperLube?
thanks parak.
JD and Spam i want to use the super lube for Ergo Clears that i intend to install on my ergo dox.
Please use Krytox instead. :(
any reason why JD? i already bought some SuperLube but it was like 3 bucks so whatever. just curious on why you are repping that brand over the seemingly favorite SuperLube?
:facepalm:
I could care less about a brand name for its own sake. It's all about the properties of the lubricant. SuperLube degrades over time. It's not at all as good as Krytox. 18 months ago, it was damn near impossible to get Krytox for a reasonable price, but that just isn't so anymore. There is no reason to use anything BUT Krytox for lubing switches now. Also, with SuperLube, you may have to reapply the lube periodically, to keep the switches smooth. I can't say for sure, as I've never lubed switches with SuperLube, but I have heard anecdotal evidence that this may be true.
As someone who buys keyboards seconhand quite a bit, if I bought a keyboard from someone who advertised the switches as "lubed," and they were done with SuperLube instead of Krytox, I would take issue. If you are never going to sell your keyboard to anyone, use whatever you like! :)
I just soldered my first board. Used this http://www.frys.com/product/2258018.well yes and no. yes in that it gets the job done. no in that you're going to burn yourself doing that, and it will hurt. believe me, i know. that said, burning yourself (a _lot_) is one way to go about learning to solder :P
It took forever to heat up. Surprised at how easy it is to solder switches though!
Also, I don't have any desoldering equipment, but had to remove a switch after soldering it. So I heated up the solder joints until it was liquidy and slowly pulled the pins out so I could pry it from the board. Is this okay to do?
Thanks for the answer. I burned myself once already when it was barely heating up. I can't imagine how painful it would be for the molten solder to touch my skin :eek:I just soldered my first board. Used this http://www.frys.com/product/2258018.well yes and no. yes in that it gets the job done. no in that you're going to burn yourself doing that, and it will hurt. believe me, i know. that said, burning yourself (a _lot_) is one way to go about learning to solder :P
It took forever to heat up. Surprised at how easy it is to solder switches though!
Also, I don't have any desoldering equipment, but had to remove a switch after soldering it. So I heated up the solder joints until it was liquidy and slowly pulled the pins out so I could pry it from the board. Is this okay to do?
it only hurts for a second, then your brain shovels dopamine like crazy and the nerve and tissue there cook and kind of die (but just a little! they get better!).
Those LCD monitor wipes in cylindrical plastic boxes work well too. Just literally pour the board with IPA, and then wipe. Unfortunately, you'll need to remove the torn parts of the wipes afterwards.these wipes are just iso on a fibrous carrier
EDIT: I meant something like this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/88pcs-PC-TV-LCD-Cleaning-Wet-Wipes-Professional-Nurse-0374/391523790.html
that's probably the only thing worse for you than using pure isopropryl like i do. congrats ;P
i used to wear gloves because your body absorbs pure alcohol so readily through the skin, but a while ago i just gave in and now i'm a step away from using kerosene like moz :P
This is the feeling I get about India. They just use whatever works, regardless of the consequences, they're like, "Might cause cancer? Ah, screw it." One day they may have an OSHA equivalent to safeguard the workers, but until then... :(
This is the feeling I get about India. They just use whatever works, regardless of the consequences, they're like, "Might cause cancer? Ah, screw it." One day they may have an OSHA equivalent to safeguard the workers, but until then... :(This is the problem with my country, and we call it "jugaad", a fix that works, what we don't realize are the short-falls.
Yes, the same.This is the feeling I get about India. They just use whatever works, regardless of the consequences, they're like, "Might cause cancer? Ah, screw it." One day they may have an OSHA equivalent to safeguard the workers, but until then... :(
Same country that still doesn't have a modern sewage system, right?
How important is flux?
Oh and I finally soldered for the first time. Just the pins on a pro micro, but it was really satisfying ;D
How important is flux?
Oh and I finally soldered for the first time. Just the pins on a pro micro, but it was really satisfying ;D
flux is super important, it helps solder flow right.
How important is flux?
Oh and I finally soldered for the first time. Just the pins on a pro micro, but it was really satisfying ;D
flux is super important, it helps solder flow right.
With current offerings of flux core solder the I can't really thing of many reasons that one would need to purchase standalone flux for what the majority of us do.
With current offerings of flux core solder the I can't really thing of many reasons that one would need to purchase standalone flux for what the majority of us do.Having some standalone tacky flux is VERY helpful for SMD soldering..
With current offerings of flux core solder the I can't really thing of many reasons that one would need to purchase standalone flux for what the majority of us do.Having some standalone tacky flux is VERY helpful for SMD soldering..
Question for myself. How much of a difference is there between 63/37 and 60/40. The reason I ask is because I watched a video about that talked about the "wetting temp" of solder and that 63/37 basically would stick as soon as it was hot enough to melt. Well this got me wondering and I looked at what I have. It turns out the stuff I bought from radio shack was 60/40. I haven't had any issues with it as I am probably running my iron a bit on the host side anyway.In general, 60/40 should work fine. The advantage of 63/37 is that there’s a single temperature at which it goes from all-solid to all-liquid, so it will either melt or solidify very quickly right when it crosses that temperature. 60/40 solder has a small range of temperatures that are in between the freezing/melting points, where the solder is a sort of paste of mixed solid/liquid (“plastic”). From what I understand, if the solder gets moved around while it’s in this state, it can result in a worse solder joint [it will end up looking dull instead of shiny, and can be unreliable].
With current offerings of flux core solder the I can't really thing of many reasons that one would need to purchase standalone flux for what the majority of us do.Having some standalone tacky flux is VERY helpful for SMD soldering..
for SMD, make your old solder paste: get a hard lacquered ceramic or stainless steel mortar and pestle and smash some solder and a bit of extra flux. suck that up with a fine tipped syringe and apply on your solder pads. then use a suction holder and blow hot air as the suction holder is holding the part on the pads. bam! ezpz smd.With current offerings of flux core solder the I can't really thing of many reasons that one would need to purchase standalone flux for what the majority of us do.Having some standalone tacky flux is VERY helpful for SMD soldering..
From what I understand, if the solder gets moved around while it’s in this state, it can result in a worse solder joint [it will end up looking dull instead of shiny, and can be unreliable].(by the way, it's glass transition, not plastic. the material is plastic during glass transition. anyway..)
Would the CL1481 iron being offered in the learn to solder group but be up to the task of desoldering a QFR for practice?
Would the CL1481 iron being offered in the learn to solder group but be up to the task of desoldering a QFR for practice?
Very much so
Would the CL1481 iron being offered in the learn to solder group but be up to the task of desoldering a QFR for practice?
Very much so
To add to this, be careful with the QFR PCB, it's ****, If you're not quick and careful with the desoldering, you will lift pads.
when desoldering with a soldapullt, hold your pullt off to the side, put a tiny bead of melted solder on your tinned tip, and touch that to the joint (that tiny bead is often called a heat bridge). you should see immediately when the solder in the joint melts, as it will suddenly become very shiny and may change shape slightly to become more of a perfect sphere than it was before. as soon as that happens, hit the button on your soldapullt. the suction of the GH soldapullt is so high that it doesn't have to be right on top of the joint in order to grab most if not all of the solder. holding it at a 45 degree angle with maybe 1mm separation between the tip and the solder should be enough to grab the vast majority of the solder.
[...] i would suggest buying a full on larsen flush cutter -- either one of their carbide series if you're doing big wire work or the smaller standard series for nipping at component legs.I bought some pliers and cutters from http://schmitz-zangen.de/shop.php?lang=engl which were quite reasonable in price, and seem to be very well made (though the shipping from Germany to USA takes them a while).
ps, oddly, i am also a wiha stalwart but i absolutely don't recommend wiha cutters anymore. the only pair i have that have held up was the wiha germany bevel head and it's more expensive than the equivalent larsen and has a much less beefy joint. it's full polish, and the box joint is definitely high quality, but the larsens just blow it out of the water.
[...] i would suggest buying a full on larsen flush cutter -- either one of their carbide series if you're doing big wire work or the smaller standard series for nipping at component legs.I bought some pliers and cutters from http://schmitz-zangen.de/shop.php?lang=engl (http://schmitz-zangen.de/shop.php?lang=engl) which were quite reasonable in price, and seem to be very well made (though the shipping from Germany to USA takes them a while).
ps, oddly, i am also a wiha stalwart but i absolutely don't recommend wiha cutters anymore. the only pair i have that have held up was the wiha germany bevel head and it's more expensive than the equivalent larsen and has a much less beefy joint. it's full polish, and the box joint is definitely high quality, but the larsens just blow it out of the water.
Not bad, did you pick up the 3437HS22? It looked good until I switched countries to the US and saw that shipping charge. Ouch :)I didn’t get any tungsten carbide cutters. The shipping is steep to the US, but it doesn’t increase much for additional items, so if you buy about 3-4 cutters/pliers at once, the price ends up okay. Would obviously be even better with a group buy or something.
I tried cutting some spring steel piano wire with some cheap masterforce cutters from Menards.That Schmitz website tells you what maximum gauge/mm width of various hardnesses of wire to safely cut with each type of cutter. For piano wire, yeah, I’d use the tungsten carbide ones. I think many keyboard springs aren’t using wire that’s quite so hard though. Keyswitch spring wires are thin enough that even the smallest of the tungsten carbide cutters should work for any of them though, even if they were piano wire.
I tried cutting some spring steel piano wire with some cheap masterforce cutters from Menards.That Schmitz website tells you what maximum gauge/mm width of various hardnesses of wire to safely cut with each type of cutter. For piano wire, yeah, I’d use the tungsten carbide ones. I think many keyboard springs aren’t using wire that’s quite so hard though. Keyswitch spring wires are thin enough that even the smallest of the tungsten carbide cutters should work for any of them though.
conclusion: hard wire sucks to cut :(
Guys, what's a decently good soldering station I can get in Canada. As well as a pump. The last cheap pump I bought was terrible.
Thanks :thumb:
Guys, what's a decently good soldering station I can get in Canada. As well as a pump. The last cheap pump I bought was terrible.
Thanks :thumb:
I'd recommend mkawa's soldering kit.
Guys, what's a decently good soldering station I can get in Canada. As well as a pump. The last cheap pump I bought was terrible.
Thanks :thumb:
I'd recommend mkawa's soldering kit.
Maybe I should have said a "budget" soldering station. While mkawa's kit is very nice, it's far out of my price range.
I don't need all the bells and whistles. Just a decent iron and pump to start. :thumb:
Guys, what's a decently good soldering station I can get in Canada. As well as a pump. The last cheap pump I bought was terrible.
Thanks :thumb:
I'd recommend mkawa's soldering kit.
Maybe I should have said a "budget" soldering station. While mkawa's kit is very nice, it's far out of my price range.
I don't need all the bells and whistles. Just a decent iron and pump to start. :thumb:
Alright so I have done a bit of soldering on different boards including, Cherry switches, diodes, desoldering both, bypassing traces to rotate a switch on the factory PCB, and desoldered a teensy from a phantom (now that was a freakin pain in the ass). My question is this. Is it really that difficult to hand solder SMD diodes? I have a weller iron with 1-5 scale and a 1.6mm chisel tip.It's pretty easy with a 1.6mm tip. Just tack one side down with solder, solder the other side, then redo both joints to make sure they're good. Tacky flux is helpful :thumb:
Alright so I have done a bit of soldering on different boards including, Cherry switches, diodes, desoldering both, bypassing traces to rotate a switch on the factory PCB, and desoldered a teensy from a phantom (now that was a freakin pain in the ass). My question is this. Is it really that difficult to hand solder SMD diodes? I have a weller iron with 1-5 scale and a 1.6mm chisel tip.It's pretty easy with a 1.6mm tip. Just tack one side down with solder, solder the other side, then redo both joints to make sure they're good. Tacky flux is helpful :thumb:
So for this I would want flux in addition to flux core solder?Yeah, flux will be very helpful. I found that tacky flux is a lot better than liquid flux for this (as well as most other SMD stuff).
I was thinking add some solder to one pad, place with tweezers, add flux, heat to flow, hole till cooled, then solder the other side.You could do this, but I'd then add flux to both sides once soldered and heat to flow once more to make sure the joints are good. I did a method like this to begin with and it worked fine, but I found the method I described earlier to be better.
Woot, all done!
Adding LEDs to the underside of an A87 PS2AVR PCB (in a GON case). Had to sacrifice a USB cable for some sleeved wires:Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7334/13047237063_af96780583_b.jpg)
(white is signal, black is ground)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/13047433164_69b93813f9_b.jpg)
Artsy shot:Show Image(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/13047423314_d73bba9a4f_b.jpg)
Taped in place:Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/13047428384_94d04fe4fc_h.jpg)
Done! (looks better and brighter in person)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/13047089765_61261636e6_b.jpg)
Does anyone have experience with solder not being able to be sucked up? I'm using a sulapullit and I have experience soldering with 3 boards and this one is being extremely stubborn...I'm not sure what I should do.
Sorry about the double post but it has been a few days. But I have a quick question.
Can someone recommend a good pair of wire strippers for small stuff. I was thinking for wires hopefully down to about 26 or 28 gauge.
Does anyone have experience with solder not being able to be sucked up? I'm using a sulapullit and I have experience soldering with 3 boards and this one is being extremely stubborn...I'm not sure what I should do.
Woot, all done!
Adding LEDs to the underside of an A87 PS2AVR PCB (in a GON case). Had to sacrifice a USB cable for some sleeved wires:Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7334/13047237063_af96780583_b.jpg)
(white is signal, black is ground)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/13047433164_69b93813f9_b.jpg)
Artsy shot:Show Image(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/13047423314_d73bba9a4f_b.jpg)
Taped in place:Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/13047428384_94d04fe4fc_h.jpg)
Done! (looks better and brighter in person)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7309/13047089765_61261636e6_b.jpg)Show Image(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/13047095285_bd613cc2cb_b.jpg)
these are my favorite budget strippers: http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-Communications-22-10-Strippers-Bundle/dp/B000X4X23U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1394833546&sr=8-4&keywords=paladin+wire+stripper
you can also get them separately if you don't strip 26ga cable. note that greenlee = paladin.
eventually, you're going to kill those strippers, and you're going to need something with replaceable blades. when you get to that point, buy a stripax. the basic design is from a german company: weidemuller, but greenlee has the rights to the US market and packages it a little differently. here's the greenlee version. notice that it has a blade that's fine enough for 28ga. since the blades are replaceable, that's just the blade they pack with the thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-1113-Stripax-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B0006BHCFO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394833546&sr=8-3&keywords=paladin+wire+stripper
however, you can get the weidemeier version in the US, but weidemuller packages it with a slightly coarser blade:
http://www.newark.com/weidmuller/stripax-0-8-10mm/wire-stripper-0-8-6mm/dp/24M7939
this blade is only rated down to 20ga. another blade is like 30 bucks, so i tend to recommend the paladin version. there is a slight difference in ergonomics between the weidemuller and the greenlee, because weidemuller is technically a generation ahead, but the only difference is replaceable handles for comfort, so that's the tradeoff. regardless, the stripax is THE wire stripper. once you've used one, you will never go back to any other wire stripper design. it's just a brilliantly designed little thing.
How safe is it to solder indoors? Would the fumes require good ventilation?I solder in my room with just a USB fan blowing over the area.
I solder near a window with a desk fan going, although my room smells terrible after I am done lol
I know, it doesn't get that cold here so that isn't a problem for me :PI solder near a window with a desk fan going, although my room smells terrible after I am done lol
I did that before as well, but in winter that wasn't really an option so I had to get creative. With my DIY thing there is no smell at all afterwards, so I can really recommend it.
I'm looking to buying some solder, but I'm confused between solder and lead-free solder. From a health perspective, is the lead-free one considerably better? Or are they just equally as bad? Also, what do you guys think of AIM solder? The guy at my local hobby store said AIM is comparable to Kester.
Also, looking at the OP, is this lead free?
http://www.parts-express.com/kester-44-rosin-core-solder-63-37-031-1-lb-spool--370-074#lblProductDetails
I'm looking to buying some solder, but I'm confused between solder and lead-free solder. From a health perspective, is the lead-free one considerably better? Or are they just equally as bad? Also, what do you guys think of AIM solder? The guy at my local hobby store said AIM is comparable to Kester.
Also, looking at the OP, is this lead free?
http://www.parts-express.com/kester-44-rosin-core-solder-63-37-031-1-lb-spool--370-074#lblProductDetails
Kester 44 is not lead free, it is made of 63% tin and 37% lead (thats what the 63/37 stands for). It is recommended as it melts at lower temperatures and is easier to work with.
Both is bad if you breathe it and you should wash your hands after soldering. Open your window while soldering or have a fan near your soldering area and you should be perfectly fine.
Does anyone know where else I can obtain this solder? Parts-express doesn't ship to Canada and eBay is around $70USD.
I'm working on another keyboard, which was not put together by me, and trying to figure out why one of the LEDs does not light up (on the "N" key). The LED itself is good, which I've tested--even replaced with another working LED. But... it doesn't light up. I can make it light up by doing a continuity check with a multimeter and passing some extra current through it, I guess, but otherwise it stays dark when all the others on that keyboard are lit.
I've tested the resistor for the troublesome LED, and it's properly soldered. Any ideas what might be happening? It's like it's not getting sufficient current for some reason or else some weird firmware thing where it's not getting enough current via software (doubtful). Everything looks clean and neat, no damaged traces.
kester 44 actually doesn't refer to the alloy. there is kester 44 60/40 as well as 63/37. kester 44 actually refers to the specific RA flux formulation. it is incredibly effective while being very low in halides and other really nasty stuff. rosin is actually a plant derived solvent, and it can be activated with really nasty stuff, or not so nasty stuff. the nastiest fluxes will actually corrode the joint if you leave it on. kester 44 leaded solder was incredibly popular for 40 some odd years because it was no-clean in an industrial sense; that is it was corrosive enough to disrupt oxide layers, but not corrosive enough to corrode joints, boards or components (in the expectation, of course). of the kester 44 variants, the best for hobby soldering is 63/37 because it has no glass transition phase between solid and liquid. it phase changes at exactly 183C, which is very low, for the least chance of component heat damage, and the easiest work and rework during assembly or repair. in small diameter (0.02-0.03"), it is extremely versatile, has excellent wetting characteristics (the flux to solder ratio is extremely copacetic to good flow of solder into a joint), is fairly non-toxic, and has very good performace when flux residue is not cleaned off the board.I'm looking to buying some solder, but I'm confused between solder and lead-free solder. From a health perspective, is the lead-free one considerably better? Or are they just equally as bad? Also, what do you guys think of AIM solder? The guy at my local hobby store said AIM is comparable to Kester.
Also, looking at the OP, is this lead free?
http://www.parts-express.com/kester-44-rosin-core-solder-63-37-031-1-lb-spool--370-074#lblProductDetails
Kester 44 is not lead free, it is made of 63% tin and 37% lead (thats what the 63/37 stands for). It is recommended as it melts at lower temperatures and is easier to work with.
Both is bad if you breathe it and you should wash your hands after soldering. Open your window while soldering or have a fan near your soldering area and you should be perfectly fine.
One more question guys - is buying older solder bad?
I'm thinking of getting this one off CL:
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/yrk/for/4362744284.html
Is this the correct one?
Thanks!
Add more solder.
What are you using for desoldering?
Wick is practically useless for desoldering through-hole components like switches. Just add more solder and try again with the solder sucker.Add more solder.
What are you using for desoldering?
A solder sucker. Should I try a wick?
Wick is practically useless for desoldering through-hole components like switches. Just add more solder and try again with the solder sucker.Add more solder.
What are you using for desoldering?
A solder sucker. Should I try a wick?
Yes I did. Whenever I add more solder and remove it, nothing changes. Is there a method so I can suck up the solder that's deep in the hole?
Yes I did. Whenever I add more solder and remove it, nothing changes. Is there a method so I can suck up the solder that's deep in the hole?
In those cases, just heat up the pins with the tip of your soldering iron and prop your switch or LED from the other side with a flat head small screwdriver. Heat each pin, and eventually your switch / LED will pop out safely (but watch out, it can fly off into the distance if you're not careful). You need to prop your PCB vertically for that, and I usually put a rubber mat undermeath to avoid damaging the PCB and my work table.
How safe is it to solder indoors? Would the fumes require good ventilation?I solder in my room with just a USB fan blowing over the area.
i had a very poorly made thread with humorous pictures of my USPS priority mail box-based active charcoal filters. i've since appropriated the fans to cool a very large compressor, but the based idea is radial fan -> box -> activated charcoal eg from aquarium store -> venting. activated charcoal works by being ionized and very granular, ie, having high surface area. this is also why the "activated charcoal mesh" is a joke. you need a ton of surface area, which means lots of finely crushed or roughly formed nuggets. once you have that though, you just need the nasty smelly stuff to get near the charcoal. you don't have to push a huge amount of air through it unless you're in a very confined space and you have a lot of fumes.
i was using a brand new 1.2mm hakko tip on my FX888. i had the iron set to 725F (which may have been a little too hot).
So last night I would add solder to right smd pad first. Then hold diode with tweezers and heat the diode connector until it drops into the solder. Then add solder to left side pad.
So last night I would add solder to right smd pad first. Then hold diode with tweezers and heat the diode connector until it drops into the solder. Then add solder to left side pad.
This technique sounds right, do apply flux to the pads before adding solder and then again before place the the component.
I use liquid flux and apply it using a brush.
Hey, can anyone recommend a good pair of flush cutters that are available through ebay or amazon.ca?
I have a small budget of $20. They don't have to be amazing, they just have to do their job. :)
Thanks!
Installed my new equipments yesterday; obsolete HAKKO 928 station got at $10 and two counterfeit 900M handles($7 or 8 each) from ebay. They are calibrated with fake HAKKO tip thermo also from ebay(around $15), LOL.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/x85a2Wa.jpg)
Would silver coated wire be sutible for a hand wired matrix or should I try and find some uncoated? The problem I am having is locating 28 AWG in solid core version uncoated.
Would silver coated wire be sutible for a hand wired matrix or should I try and find some uncoated? The problem I am having is locating 28 AWG in solid core version uncoated.
you're looking for magnet wire
Would silver coated wire be sutible for a hand wired matrix or should I try and find some uncoated? The problem I am having is locating 28 AWG in solid core version uncoated.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnet-Wire-28-Gauge-AWG-Enameled-Copper-1000-Feet-Coil-Winding-155C-Red-/171154241787 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnet-Wire-28-Gauge-AWG-Enameled-Copper-1000-Feet-Coil-Winding-155C-Red-/171154241787)
^^ Can't this be used?
you're looking for magnet wire
you're looking for magnet wire
This is also the more correct answer. ;D
Though technically, it does have a coating, otherwise it would be worthless for winding. (but that'll melt off as soon as you solder it)
you're looking for magnet wire
This is also the more correct answer. ;D
Though technically, it does have a coating, otherwise it would be worthless for winding. (but that'll melt off as soon as you solder it)
Obviously everyone has me on their ignore list but the wire I linked above (you can find cheaper shorter runs of the same thing), from my understanding has a coating that is specifically made to be removed with the soldering iron.
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I need to be a touch more specific. I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/KSW28R-0100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tA5kwbIAvdfRW3W4iRVpUEc%3d) was what I had found. I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program. I do want insulated. I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically). But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it. I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I need to be a touch more specific. I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/KSW28R-0100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tA5kwbIAvdfRW3W4iRVpUEc%3d) was what I had found. I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program. I do want insulated. I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically). But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it. I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.
Oooohhh, I think I understand now. You're looking at wire that is silver coated and insulated? I wouldn't imagine that there would be any special considerations there, but I don't have experience with that. Any particular reason you'd be seeking it out?
how safe is that?
I am loving the Soldapullt, it is amazing, threw away the Chinese crap I was using. Thanks ming. I also realised why I was initially hesitant on going this route, it was because I thought I would damage the tip fairly easily, but the tip has a much higher MP than what we use and thus there is little fear of melting it with the iron.
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I need to be a touch more specific. I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/KSW28R-0100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tA5kwbIAvdfRW3W4iRVpUEc%3d) was what I had found. I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program. I do want insulated. I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically). But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it. I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.
Oooohhh, I think I understand now. You're looking at wire that is silver coated and insulated? I wouldn't imagine that there would be any special considerations there, but I don't have experience with that. Any particular reason you'd be seeking it out?
Not really seeking it out but I can't seem to find any 28 ga wire in solid core that isn't coated. I am going to bite the bullet on some when I get some money in my play account but until then salvaged IDE cables are working OK.
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I need to be a touch more specific. I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/KSW28R-0100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tA5kwbIAvdfRW3W4iRVpUEc%3d) was what I had found. I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program. I do want insulated. I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically). But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it. I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.
Oooohhh, I think I understand now. You're looking at wire that is silver coated and insulated? I wouldn't imagine that there would be any special considerations there, but I don't have experience with that. Any particular reason you'd be seeking it out?
Not really seeking it out but I can't seem to find any 28 ga wire in solid core that isn't coated. I am going to bite the bullet on some when I get some money in my play account but until then salvaged IDE cables are working OK.
I know of a place that does 26g solid core, but not 28.
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I need to be a touch more specific. I was looking for insulated wire when I came across this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/KSW28R-0100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tA5kwbIAvdfRW3W4iRVpUEc%3d) was what I had found. I am using this with single switch PCB prototypes of my concept but Moz is doing the KiCad work as I can't seem to figure out that damn program. I do want insulated. I realize that magnet wire would work and in some of my research I have come across some that says the insulation functions as a flux when heat is applied (this could get interesting if used for a motor winding and it overheats drastically). But I want to work with standard insulated wire for right now and was wondering if silver coated or even tinned copper wire would work ok, or if there are some particulars I should know when soldering with it. I will only be ordering a 100' spool at most since I would only be using enough to go between switches.
Oooohhh, I think I understand now. You're looking at wire that is silver coated and insulated? I wouldn't imagine that there would be any special considerations there, but I don't have experience with that. Any particular reason you'd be seeking it out?
Not really seeking it out but I can't seem to find any 28 ga wire in solid core that isn't coated. I am going to bite the bullet on some when I get some money in my play account but until then salvaged IDE cables are working OK.
I know of a place that does 26g solid core, but not 28.
I am finding 28 gauge solid core that is insulated but is also either tinned or silver coated. I would assume this would work OK for a matrix.
Just for my understanding on this topic. When you hand wire a matrix, you want some kind of insulation. Magnet wire is recommended because it is insulated, but the iron will remove the coating. Also 28 gauge is the suggested gauge to use? Is this the most common recommendation for hand wiring?
Just for my understanding on this topic. When you hand wire a matrix, you want some kind of insulation. Magnet wire is recommended because it is insulated, but the iron will remove the coating. Also 28 gauge is the suggested gauge to use? Is this the most common recommendation for hand wiring?
I don't think so but it fits some requirements for some other details related to the build that would be related to some modifications I am attempting to make to these (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55744.0).
i can't hand wire smaller than 26ga personally. that is _tiny_ wire. even 26ga is annoying for me. i prefer 22ga for hookup wire. sometimes, especially when your landing point is an SMT pad, you have to go 26ga, but i'm most comfortable with 22 or even 18ga if possible. 18ga is super easy to work with and a great general purpose hookup wire. you can run a ton of current through it, it's easy to handle, lots of surface area for soldering. etc.
and yes, the coating on magnet wire will melt and shrink back at the end as you start soldering it. it's sometimes easier to find magnet wire in the size you want than solid core hookup wire. just keep in mind that magnet wire can't handle the temperatures that standard hookup wire can. it's meant to be wrapped around a big ass piece of ferritic iron, so using it as hookup wire is something you need to spend a few minutes making sure you're not subjecting it to too much heat in usage.
i can't hand wire smaller than 26ga personally. that is _tiny_ wire. even 26ga is annoying for me. i prefer 22ga for hookup wire. sometimes, especially when your landing point is an SMT pad, you have to go 26ga, but i'm most comfortable with 22 or even 18ga if possible. 18ga is super easy to work with and a great general purpose hookup wire. you can run a ton of current through it, it's easy to handle, lots of surface area for soldering. etc.
and yes, the coating on magnet wire will melt and shrink back at the end as you start soldering it. it's sometimes easier to find magnet wire in the size you want than solid core hookup wire. just keep in mind that magnet wire can't handle the temperatures that standard hookup wire can. it's meant to be wrapped around a big ass piece of ferritic iron, so using it as hookup wire is something you need to spend a few minutes making sure you're not subjecting it to too much heat in usage.
Is it important for some reason to use insulated wire when hand wiring?
I have some uninsulated 20awg (21swg) solid core tinned copper wire that I basically use as a utility wire. Would that work to hand wire a simple matrix?
I have heard of some people using piano wire for hand wiring keyboards and I am sure that is not insulated.
the only situation i would use non-insulated wire in is long straight current buses. real example: say you have like 10 to-220 packages where you want to put pin 2 in parallel so that all the ICs are switched at the same time. in that situation i took some pretty heavy gauge solid core wire (i think it was like 12ga solid core), pulled the insulation off, bent pin 2 up on each package and then soldered my way down the thick wire with a joint at wire and a little bit extra for a mechanical connection. however, immediately after everything was wired up on this circuit i potted the entire assembly with non-acid cure RTV silicone to prevent all that bare metal from shorting on anything.
for hand wiring a keyboard matrix, the most elegant jobs i've seen are the ones where the diode legs are used directly as uninsulated hookup wire. however, you have to protect that wiring somehow, as it's really easy to crush such a nice but delicate wiring job. ron used an extra long press-bent switch plate to raise the board way above surface-level. lowpoly and matt3o have also done really nice jobs using diode wiring, but they both had plastic cases to protect the wiring. if you do plan on using thin uninsulated wire, i would prepare like.. closed-cell antistat foam followed by a hard phenolic layer or something? (like G10/FR4)
Hey guys, I just got my switches and just waiting for my pcb from sprit.Send me your address and I'll send you enough kester 44 for a few jobs ;D
Anyways just like to ask what type of solder should I use to solder the switches ?
Is this one alright ? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-AS16-20-Gram-Solder/dp/B000LFVHK6
The price seems good. Just like to know if it's alright for usage, cause the last time I solder I used some solder from my dad's toolbox. I think it has ran out :D
Thanks again !
Hey guys, I just got my switches and just waiting for my pcb from sprit.Send me your address and I'll send you enough kester 44 for a few jobs ;D
Anyways just like to ask what type of solder should I use to solder the switches ?
Is this one alright ? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-AS16-20-Gram-Solder/dp/B000LFVHK6
The price seems good. Just like to know if it's alright for usage, cause the last time I solder I used some solder from my dad's toolbox. I think it has ran out :D
Thanks again !
I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.
Comments on technique?
I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.
Comments on technique?
Sounds good to me. On my learn to solder kit I used scorch tape and/or bent the legs away from each other so the would stay in place.
I don't know if there is a guide out there or if this is the correct method for soldering LEDs, but here is what I do: When installing LEDs, I have noticed that they tend to fall through the hole sicne nothing keeps them locked into their position. What I do is, have the keyboard facing up, place the LEDs, use a hard surface like a cardboard, flip the keyboard and place it on working desk so all the LED pins stay in the wholes, they do fall off a bit, but not out of the holes, I then use a needlenose plier or my hands, pull the LED via one leg (Gently, not to tight and the holes are large enough that both the legs are pulled up evenly even when only pulling using one leg). I then solder the other leg not held, let it cool and move to the other LED. After this is done, I then solder the other leg on all the LEDs, following by trimming of the pins.
Comments on technique?
I just bend the legs and solder them then I'll cut them off afterwards :)
Budget (sub-$50):
Edsyn CL1481 kit (includes tips/tools/soldapullt) - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1481-K
NOTE - mkawa will be making a better version of this kit with more robust stuff through the geekhackers store, but it won't be anywhere close to this bargan basement pricing
prices went up recently at edsyn. however, i will be running another GB of soldering kits that will bring the price down to below R2 levels again.Budget (sub-$50):
Edsyn CL1481 kit (includes tips/tools/soldapullt) - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1481-K
NOTE - mkawa will be making a better version of this kit with more robust stuff through the geekhackers store, but it won't be anywhere close to this bargan basement pricing
This has been irritating me for a while... click that link. Not "sub-$50." That clearly says "$90.xx" (and the CL1481 iron by itself shows $59.x...).
Does an acceptable sub-$50 unit even exist?
Yi-Hua 936 Club!
prices went up recently at edsyn. however, i will be running another GB of soldering kits that will bring the price down to below R2 levels again.Budget (sub-$50):
Edsyn CL1481 kit (includes tips/tools/soldapullt) - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1481-K
NOTE - mkawa will be making a better version of this kit with more robust stuff through the geekhackers store, but it won't be anywhere close to this bargan basement pricing
This has been irritating me for a while... click that link. Not "sub-$50." That clearly says "$90.xx" (and the CL1481 iron by itself shows $59.x...).
Does an acceptable sub-$50 unit even exist?
this will be more or less the same kit that kmiller uses to churn through board builds. it may seem like a very simple iron (and it is, in a manner of speaking), but it is extremely high quality and a bargain for the price, frankly.
How legit is this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Digital-2-In-1-Soldering-Iron-SMD-Hot-Air-Gun-Rework-Station-YH-8786D-/221374450435?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item338af20b03)?
Alright, so soldering took me two seconds to master haha (at least all of my joints look like they should and I'm having no problems with any of the switches) but I'm also practicing de-soldering on my techkeys business card before I take the iron to my Race 2, and I'm having a problem where I can't get all of the solder out of the joint (it circles around the bottom of the switch contact and I can't get it out) Anybody have any suggestions on how to get it out? I'm going to try wicking it out.
Alright, so soldering took me two seconds to master haha (at least all of my joints look like they should and I'm having no problems with any of the switches) but I'm also practicing de-soldering on my techkeys business card before I take the iron to my Race 2, and I'm having a problem where I can't get all of the solder out of the joint (it circles around the bottom of the switch contact and I can't get it out) Anybody have any suggestions on how to get it out? I'm going to try wicking it out.
Wick is an option, you can also try adding more solder and desoldering again or you can pull a bit on the switch while you heat the rest of the solder.
Tried the other two already =( Seems wick is my last option haha. Thanks for the prompt response!
If you are using a soldapullt from GHers, then I would say that you should be able to pull all the solder out, there is enough vacuum, what you want to do is, when you melt the solder with your iron, really get in there with soldapullt with the iron still touching the pad (Maybe your iron will touch the soldapullt tip, but don't worry, those are really tough). When I began using the soldapullt, I would bring the soldapullt to the pad just as I was removing the iron, since I use eutectic solder, this was enough time for some of the solder to solidify, I was scared of melting the tip, then I started to bring the soldapullt onto the pad at an angle, with the iron still toughing it, and then in a single swift motion remove the iron, tilt the soldapullt vertically up, right above the pad and completely covering it and pushing the button on it, all at the same time.the soldapullt tips are all high purity ptfe. they won't melt until they hit 260C. if you're quick, you can touch them to the iron and molten solder, hit the release button and pull away without damaging the tip at all. don't worry about pulling really hot fumes and solder into the barrel. the krytox that is lubricating the interior has an extreme high vapor pressure and a large amount of ptfe in it, and the gasket that forms the vacuum seal is a beefy oversized piece of FKM that is highly resistant to RA flux and has a melting point around 200C. i actually pull flux fumes at temp into my soldapullt. you will find that you can pull so much crap in that it clogs very quickly however, so clean it fairly often.
and will just sit there in the corner with a dunce cap on until all the solder has been flushed out.
I lol'd at this
Welp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.
Race 2 is a dual layerWelp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.
Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.
Race 2 is a dual layerWelp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.
Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.
Race 2 is a dual layerWelp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.
Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.
Could be the solder used. I have seen that make it more difficult to desolder. In particular lead free solder is a pain. I usually just go through and add some Kester solder to any board I desolder especially the older ones.
Race 2 is a dual layerWelp, I decided to just gamble and start de-soldering on my Race 2. I had no problems whatsoever as far as de-soldering on the board, just on the techkeys card for some reason.
Plated through holes on multi layered PCBs are much more difficult to desolder than a single sided PCB.
Could be the solder used. I have seen that make it more difficult to desolder. In particular lead free solder is a pain. I usually just go through and add some Kester solder to any board I desolder especially the older ones.
Probably is. I knew age was a little bit of a factor in older solder, so I made sure to ask how long what I purchased had been on the shelf. Turned out to be a little under a year. I'll probably spend some decent money and go buy some kester before I re-solder into the race
I hate whick, burnt too much fingers, no thanks.
the tips are very replaceable if you're soldering hot enough to go through them, and they are quite inexpensive. melt point on the tips is 260C, which is about as high as you're going to get with a plastic. you may be leaving it on the joint for too long. try hovering the tip over the joint for a bit until it melts, then pop it over the joint (you can leave the iron there) hit the button and move it away again. if you didn't get everything, just pull the iron away for a second or two, and repeat.I hate whick, burnt too much fingers, no thanks.
i agree. while whick still has its use and place (especially with pre-soldered boards) i greatly prefer my soldapullit. that little edyson solder sucker (also not so little i was freaked out when it arrived and it wasnt the size of a pen like it thought it was going to be) just sucks everything up i throw at it. my only complaint is that the tip be made of a more temperature resistant (but non conductive) material that doesnt easily melt. see many times when i am using the solder sucker i have to place the sucker near my tip as i heat up the solder. i have melted the soldapullit tip quite a bit through use.
whatever though it is way better than whick. whick is so messy and slow.
the tips are very replaceable if you're soldering hot enough to go through them, and they are quite inexpensive. melt point on the tips is 260C, which is about as high as you're going to get with a plastic. you may be leaving it on the joint for too long. try hovering the tip over the joint for a bit until it melts, then pop it over the joint (you can leave the iron there) hit the button and move it away again. if you didn't get everything, just pull the iron away for a second or two, and repeat.I hate whick, burnt too much fingers, no thanks.
i agree. while whick still has its use and place (especially with pre-soldered boards) i greatly prefer my soldapullit. that little edyson solder sucker (also not so little i was freaked out when it arrived and it wasnt the size of a pen like it thought it was going to be) just sucks everything up i throw at it. my only complaint is that the tip be made of a more temperature resistant (but non conductive) material that doesnt easily melt. see many times when i am using the solder sucker i have to place the sucker near my tip as i heat up the solder. i have melted the soldapullit tip quite a bit through use.
whatever though it is way better than whick. whick is so messy and slow.
one of the first videos i will be making will be a HOWTO on fully rebuilding a soldapullt. that should help people see the scale of how darned long the thing is. it's _definitely_ not the size of any pencil i've ever used ;). ask cptbadass about how he first reacted to his soldapullt. bwahahaha
What temperature do yo have your iron at? I have touched my soldapullt tip to the iron several times but no melted it one bit yet.
this is a fine choice: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080X79HG/ref=biss_dp_t_asnThanks :D
it's absolutely hilarious that amazon will ship you a liter of the stuff without any MSDS, explosives warning or chemical packaging at all. bwahaha.
if you get a straight bottle, you have to figure out how to dispense it. the pen is a dispenser, so go with that if you don't have little dispensing bottles lying around (i use a 2" 25ga stainless steel luer lock needle on a 0.5oz squeeze bottle, but have to change the flux regularly, because it hardens with oxygen exposure and UV exposure).Sounds like I just need the pen then, I am only building a 60% board, but I am soldering the switches, leds, resistors, and diodes. Do you think that is enough flux?
yah. remember that solder contains flux in the center. extra flux is needed when you're reflowing joints, have a particularly nasty component to solder (heavily oxidized leads, for example) etc.
[size=78%]Soldering flux[/size]
Kester 44 .032 diameter solder(.020 for SMD) -
63/37 - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=370-074 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=370-074)
.020 - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=370-072 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=370-072)
[/size]
So, I desoldered a whole filco today and around 3 of the little switch holes got their copper coating pulled off with the switch pins for whatever reason. Is this going to cause any problems?
Pic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/alcokw0.jpg)
Hmm, that sucks :(
I just got frustrated and I did solder the 3 messed up switches to be sure, all three seem to be working fine in aquakeytest, is everything fine if they are reading correctly?
Yeah, I shove my .20 solder all the way down the hole and fill it up, so it should be all good then :D
I just got so frustrated after 4+ hours of desoldering this stupid thing.
Thanks you two! :thumb:
I'm making some mini usb cables (attempting to) and I am finding it extremely hard to solder the wires on to the mini usb pads. The wires are almost bigger than the pads! Any tips?
I'm making some mini usb cables (attempting to) and I am finding it extremely hard to solder the wires on to the mini usb pads. The wires are almost bigger than the pads! Any tips?
I'm making some mini usb cables (attempting to) and I am finding it extremely hard to solder the wires on to the mini usb pads. The wires are almost bigger than the pads! Any tips?
My advice would be:
- Flux your wire and tin it with solder.
- Flux the pad and put a small amount of solder on the pad.
- Flux both the wire and the pad again. Hold the wire onto the pad. Heat and let the solders reflow and remove the iron without moving the wire.
Is this what you are doing?
I'm making some mini usb cables (attempting to) and I am finding it extremely hard to solder the wires on to the mini usb pads. The wires are almost bigger than the pads! Any tips?
My advice would be:
- Flux your wire and tin it with solder.
- Flux the pad and put a small amount of solder on the pad.
- Flux both the wire and the pad again. Hold the wire onto the pad. Heat and let the solders reflow and remove the iron without moving the wire.
Is this what you are doing?
He just described what I do for a living better than I did. GG
I'm making some mini usb cables (attempting to) and I am finding it extremely hard to solder the wires on to the mini usb pads. The wires are almost bigger than the pads! Any tips?
My advice would be:
- Flux your wire and tin it with solder.
- Flux the pad and put a small amount of solder on the pad.
- Flux both the wire and the pad again. Hold the wire onto the pad. Heat and let the solders reflow and remove the iron without moving the wire.
Is this what you are doing?
He just described what I do for a living better than I did. GG
Sorry. Didn't mean to trump your answer. :P I gave a lot of detail because I did not realize how important fluxing both tinned surfaces was till I struggled with it. I figured the detail would be helpful.
you can actually use clips to hold the hookup wire onto the pad. just make sure you don't flux the clip and keep the temperatures low and away from the clip and like magic, the clip will not attach to the joint. this will result in an electrically stronger joint because both sides of the joint will have been significantly more still at the phase change from liquid to solid.
Are helping hands that... helpful? If so, can anyone suggest a nice pair that I could get a for [hopefully] under $15, or $20? (Planning on getting two to hold up both sides of PCB
Are helping hands that... helpful? If so, can anyone suggest a nice pair that I could get a for [hopefully] under $15, or $20? (Planning on getting two to hold up both sides of PCB
No. get one of these (http://panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=2). I will do the physical mods that I did for the batch for Mkawa for $20 plus shipping.
I have both helping hands and modded panavise. I have not even touched the helping hands (except to take it off my work desk) since I got my vise.
Are helping hands that... helpful? If so, can anyone suggest a nice pair that I could get a for [hopefully] under $15, or $20? (Planning on getting two to hold up both sides of PCB
No. get one of these (http://panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=2). I will do the physical mods that I did for the batch for Mkawa for $20 plus shipping.
I have both helping hands and modded panavise. I have not even touched the helping hands (except to take it off my work desk) since I got my vise.
What mods did you do? Can you link me to the thread or just describe the details? (What happened to the batch you did for Mkawa? Was this distributed/sold already?)
Sorry a lot of questions. Relatively new here.
i was actually going to make a quick video but got distracted by a bug in the forum. i can set something up and take a quick potato-cam pic though. give me a second.
edit: here's a not-potato-cam picture of a completely random pad on my toothbrush. i took some video of the process that i probably won't have time to edit until tomorrow
push it back on!
it really is that simple :)
You can't. It looks like it was glued on. No threading or anything. Its an SS350 by the way. I've only used it for about an hour and one time when pushing the spring down the top just shot off.
You can't. It looks like it was glued on. No threading or anything. Its an SS350 by the way. I've only used it for about an hour and one time when pushing the spring down the top just shot off.
They're not glued on since they should be exchangeable. If you push down too far, the tip will pop off.
It's so strange, I know the tips are removable but it looks like the threading completely popped off and flew across the room because it's no where to be found. RIP soldapult.
Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/J5oYNxG.jpg)
Building my first board tomorrow or tuesday, 488(?) solder points. ;D
Thanks for all the help from this thread, I think I am ready.
Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/J5oYNxG.jpg)
I'm pretty sure that's just dirt. See that "lip" on the tip? I think that is what holds it together.
I've come to the conclusion that it is unfixable. The lip just started falling apart and was very soft. Thanks for the help though!
I'm contemplating on purchasing this one:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57532.0
Is it recommended for a beginner to mid desoldering? How about it's quality? I was kinda tired of using cheap soldapullt which have end up me destroying the pcb for too much heat applied. :(
I'm contemplating on purchasing this one:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57532.0
Is it recommended for a beginner to mid desoldering? How about it's quality? I was kinda tired of using cheap soldapullt which have end up me destroying the pcb for too much heat applied. :(
If you apply too much heat that is not the fault auf your sodapullt?
Yeah I guess, but the cheap one I tried sometimes failed in the first try resulting to many attempts on sucking the solder. In the end too much heat is applied.
Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...
Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...
Usually in 300-350C. that's the recommended temps right?
If your first attempt to suck the solder up fails - re fill the hole, and then heat it until you see the solder drop into the hole, then try again, but this second time, before you use the solderpult, try to just heat for a little longer.+1 :thumb:
Yeah I guess, but the cheap one I tried sometimes failed in the first try resulting to many attempts on sucking the solder. In the end too much heat is applied.
Try lowering the temperature of your iron. What temperature are you using right now? I usually have to use the sucker multiple times before I get a switch completly loose. The joys of lead free solder...
Usually in 300-350C. that's the recommended temps right?
Yeah fine - I normally leave my station on 350 for 60/40 solder.
If your first attempt to suck the solder up fails - re fill the hole, and then heat it until you see the solder drop into the hole, then try again, but this second time, before you use the solderpult, try to just heat for a little longer.
Heat doesn't really kill stuff (I know it does, but it doesn't really for us building keyboards) but it's more about having too much load and a bad thermal interface ie. heating the wrong bit, or just having an iron with loads of watts. I tend to do all my soldering with a 35w iron, as I use leaded solder - desoldering I have a 70w vacuum powered station so I can easily desolder stock boards that have ROHS solder.
Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?
It has never had an LED installed in that switch.
I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.
If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.
Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?
It has never had an LED installed in that switch.
I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.
If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.
I think other members already faced and had a resolution for this.
You can use search function for further information.
For example:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48803.0Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YfryyBr.jpg)
Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?
It has never had an LED installed in that switch.
I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.
If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.
Does anyone have an idea why I can't add an LED to the left windows key of my Poker 2?
It has never had an LED installed in that switch.
I had no problems whatsoever with other switches.
If I wiggle it around, it comes on, but more dim than the others.
Thanks BlueBar,
I have tried mutiple LEDs and redone the soldering job. I have also removed all solder and put the leads in without soldering and bent them around. Even when it does come on, it's extremely dim in comparison to the same white LEDs I have on the other swithces.
Maybe the soldering or the LED is bad? Try soldering in a new one.
Thanks BlueBar,
I have tried mutiple LEDs and redone the soldering job. I have also removed all solder and put the leads in without soldering and bent them around. Even when it does come on, it's extremely dim in comparison to the same white LEDs I have on the other swithces.
The reason you cannot add an led to it is because the left windows key also functions as caps lock(I think) if you use a dip switch. This is normal, although it should have had an led inside of it to begin with.
Source: I just added leds to my poker last night
If I take this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C5HUI8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A136TEY25G8OA7
put on back of fan, will it be a solder fume sucker?
Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.
Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).
Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.
Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).
This might not be the most productive advice, but it's certainly exactly what I did when I lived in the dorms.
I just used my soldering iron. My roommate and I were both EE and needed to solder, so we just did. We also used a toaster and a hot plate though, so we weren't exactly model dorm tenants. On the flip side, however, our dorm also flooded with sewage, so the dorm wasn't exactly a model...dorm...either.
Anyway, that's the best advice I can offer.
Does anyone that lives in a dorm in college have advice on how/when they solder? I just read my housing contract's guidelines on fire safety and prohibited items, and all heating appliances (which would definitely include soldering irons) are banned inside the dorms.
Am I pretty much out of luck here? (Only good thing is that I live about 40 minutes away from my college so if I really need to go home I could).
This might not be the most productive advice, but it's certainly exactly what I did when I lived in the dorms.
I just used my soldering iron. My roommate and I were both EE and needed to solder, so we just did. We also used a toaster and a hot plate though, so we weren't exactly model dorm tenants. On the flip side, however, our dorm also flooded with sewage, so the dorm wasn't exactly a model...dorm...either.
So basically just solder in secret and hope my roommate is chill?QuoteAnyway, that's the best advice I can offer.
Yea, I suppose this question has too many other variables to it to be answered that adequately. I was just hoping for some clever ideas of places to solder or something. It was mostly a desperation/panic post after the thought occurred to me today :p
Could I use this to clean flux from PCBs?
Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner: http://www.cyclo.com/C87.html
Safety Data Sheet: http://cyclo.com/MSDS/SDS/C87_SDS.pdf
Could I use this to clean flux from PCBs?
Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner: http://www.cyclo.com/C87.html
Safety Data Sheet: http://cyclo.com/MSDS/SDS/C87_SDS.pdf
I'm not sure about that but I'm pretty sure this MG Chemical 824 Isopropyl Alcohol will work perfectly
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaners/electronic-cleaners/isopropyl-alcohol-824/
Edit: After checking, I think the Quick-Dry Electronic Cleaner is for cleaning the contact points, so I don't think it works for flux cleaning purpose
http://www.cyclo.com/PDF/pis/ENG/C87_ENG.pdf
"Removes soil and other contaminants from electrical and electronic parts"
I see. Can I use 70% isopropyl alcohol?
I see. Can I use 70% isopropyl alcohol?
If you already had it, you can try it. If you didn't, you should go for 99% because I think 70% isopropyl alcohol (+30% water) is very weak for cleaning flux residue. That doesn't count the fact that there is 30% of water left on the surface after cleaning. That's why 99% isopropyl alcohol is recommended.
Tried a little on one part of the PCB and a soft toothbrush. It got some out but is it normal that the PCB feels a bit tacky/sticky after?It should be dry and clean. If it is still sticky, the residue is still there.
Tried a little on one part of the PCB and a soft toothbrush. It got some out but is it normal that the PCB feels a bit tacky/sticky after?It should be dry and clean. If it is still sticky, the residue is still there.
You should apply stronger dis-solvent.
chemtronics makes a flux residue remover...
Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together.right, so what you're holding is an SS series soldapullt. it's a completely different animal from the DS017. the only sample i have from that series is the SS343, which is threaded like the SS011, SS350, and SS102. each of these have different sized barrels and different tips. the ss343 that i hae looks to be able the right diameter, but the tip looks too large. my guess is that you have a soldapullt successor SS model and that you need an LS36x replacement tip. you're going to need to save the barrel threads somehow, probably by turning the internal thread with a probe. the external thread is molded into the barrel on these designs, so if you kill the thread, you have to replace the barrel.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/J5oYNxG.jpg)
whoops, the one i use is actually an MG chem product: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/flux-removers/flux-remover-for-pc-boards-4140/
extremely volatile, don't advise having it shipped. MG chem products can be picked up at fry's or industrial chemical supply houses.
1. I wish to make a backlit keyboard using the Sprit 60% PCB. What size LEDs should I use, and what type of resistor? Is there any type of LED I should stay away from?
2. Also are there any issues in trying to create a backlit keyboard with the Sprit PCB that you guys may know of? (For ex. I think the bottom left Ctrl button on the Poker doesn't support backlighting?)
I need some help about making a backlit keyboard - I got some advice from the Sprit Model 1 group buy thread but I figured I'd the rest of my questions here to stop derailing that thread, and because this is a thread intended for soldering help.Just buy the leds from sprit, they are the correct ones and you get resistors with them.
I wish to make a backlit keyboard using the Sprit 60% PCB. What size LEDs should I use, and what type of resistor? Is there any type of LED I should stay away from?
Also are there any issues in trying to create a backlit keyboard with the Sprit PCB that you guys may know of? (For ex. I think the bottom left Ctrl button on the Poker doesn't support backlighting?)
Also, am I correct in that regular diodes do not need resistor? What type of diode is typically used on a keyboard?
On sprits keyboard, the caps lock and delete key do not light up unless you are using caps lock or num lock respectively. Not really sure how that is shocking though.
HeheOn sprits keyboard, the caps lock and delete key do not light up unless you are using caps lock or num lock respectively. Not really sure how that is shocking though.
Haha, that's hardly surprising at all :p
Thank you both ^-^
Hehe
Good luck! :D
(I will be more than happy to answer any more of your questions, I already built a KB from sprit)
LED High Bright : 110pcs (with Resistors) = 10 USD - *Auto Multi- 7 Color LED 20pcs = 10USD
Yes, $10 for 110 single color leds with resistors, or 20 multicolor for $10 I guess.Hehe
Good luck! :D
(I will be more than happy to answer any more of your questions, I already built a KB from sprit)
Awesome, because I just encountered another simple question:
On the order form for LEDs, the question asks thisQuoteLED High Bright : 110pcs (with Resistors) = 10 USD - *Auto Multi- 7 Color LED 20pcs = 10USD
Does that mean 110 pieces [with resistors] is 10 USD for a standard LED, but the 7 color LED is 20 pieces for 10 USD?
What exactly is the Auto Multi- 7 color LED? Does that mean you can choose a color for it to be or something?
got two issues:
issue #1: Spacebar doesn't work. Desoldered the key, saw that the pins were rusted, so I put in a new one. Still doesnt work and I see gunk surrounding the pads. Think previous owner must have spilled something. Gunk is pretty hard to get out
edit: going to put wires from spacebar to menu key and remap menu to spacebar
edit2: it worked! spacebar now works through AHK
issue #2: (different board) '" cap doesn't work. Looked at PCB, one of the pads on the PCB was physically lose from the PCB. Desoldered, ended up peeling off the pad. Solder won't flow accross the gap to the traces, what do?
don't forget the hexane!
got two issues:
issue #1: Spacebar doesn't work. Desoldered the key, saw that the pins were rusted, so I put in a new one. Still doesnt work and I see gunk surrounding the pads. Think previous owner must have spilled something. Gunk is pretty hard to get out
edit: going to put wires from spacebar to menu key and remap menu to spacebar
edit2: it worked! spacebar now works through AHK
issue #2: (different board) '" cap doesn't work. Looked at PCB, one of the pads on the PCB was physically lose from the PCB. Desoldered, ended up peeling off the pad. Solder won't flow accross the gap to the traces, what do?
a little update: deck is working, but some kkeyss are double pressing--just like that. Its using some pretty used up blacks, they're buttery sssmooth. should I desolder them with new ones or is this a controller issue?
also still need help on the 2nd bboard with the lifted pad
Here, check it out: To me it looks like it ripped off and there was some sort of adhesive holding it together.right, so what you're holding is an SS series soldapullt. it's a completely different animal from the DS017. the only sample i have from that series is the SS343, which is threaded like the SS011, SS350, and SS102. each of these have different sized barrels and different tips. the ss343 that i hae looks to be able the right diameter, but the tip looks too large. my guess is that you have a soldapullt successor SS model and that you need an LS36x replacement tip. you're going to need to save the barrel threads somehow, probably by turning the internal thread with a probe. the external thread is molded into the barrel on these designs, so if you kill the thread, you have to replace the barrel.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/J5oYNxG.jpg)
i generally would just recommend replacing the unit with a DS017 variant if you're not doing very fine pitched desoldering. the challenger and successor lines are made for space constrained and fine pitched situations. the ds017 has the maximum capacity, suction and so on.
yes, sorry, that was a joke. please don't purchase or use hexane in a non-laboratory settingdon't forget the hexane!
Nah, I will skip the hexane...
In difference to the 3 others it's ranked "toxic" as it can cause neuronal damage.
yes, sorry, that was a joke. please don't purchase or use hexane in a non-laboratory settingdon't forget the hexane!
Nah, I will skip the hexane...
In difference to the 3 others it's ranked "toxic" as it can cause neuronal damage.
got two issues:
issue #1: Spacebar doesn't work. Desoldered the key, saw that the pins were rusted, so I put in a new one. Still doesnt work and I see gunk surrounding the pads. Think previous owner must have spilled something. Gunk is pretty hard to get out
edit: going to put wires from spacebar to menu key and remap menu to spacebar
edit2: it worked! spacebar now works through AHK
issue #2: (different board) '" cap doesn't work. Looked at PCB, one of the pads on the PCB was physically lose from the PCB. Desoldered, ended up peeling off the pad. Solder won't flow accross the gap to the traces, what do?
a little update: deck is working, but some kkeyss are double pressing--just like that. Its using some pretty used up blacks, they're buttery sssmooth. should I desolder them with new ones or is this a controller issue?
also still need help on the 2nd bboard with the lifted pad
Try adjusting the debounce rate in your firmware to get rid of the double press of keys.
what are the components on the other side? do you need them to work afterward?
Could I get some tips on how to desolder super duper fine, unleaded soldered points, if I don't have a hot air station/desoldering wick? :-[
Here's a picture of 0.02" kester 44 right next to the joints: About as thick as the soldering spots themselves. Solder pads are probably even smaller, since they're ovular in shape.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WjsZCDd.jpg)
I've only tried adding a bit of solder on the right USB 3.0 joint, but it appears that even 0.02" kester might be too thick...and has a high chance of sticking to the other joint.
Thanks in advance!
what are the components on the other side? do you need them to work afterward?
It's a flat USB 3.0 internal header that I'm desoldering. Wanted to sleeve them like sata cables... :p
So yes, I would like to not destroy the PCB in the process.
(http://i.imgur.com/dcDiBi3.jpg)Could I get some tips on how to desolder super duper fine, unleaded soldered points, if I don't have a hot air station/desoldering wick? :-[
Here's a picture of 0.02" kester 44 right next to the joints: About as thick as the soldering spots themselves. Solder pads are probably even smaller, since they're ovular in shape.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WjsZCDd.jpg)
I've only tried adding a bit of solder on the right USB 3.0 joint, but it appears that even 0.02" kester might be too thick...and has a high chance of sticking to the other joint.
Thanks in advance!
Can you post a poc of then other side?
what are the components on the other side? do you need them to work afterward?
It's a flat USB 3.0 internal header that I'm desoldering. Wanted to sleeve them like sata cables... :p
So yes, I would like to not destroy the PCB in the process.
oh the pcb will be fine. ICs and other delicate components will have magic smoke let out of them though. basically put the board in a metal vice and point a heat gun at it. ta-da, everything falls out of the board. clean up the solder pad by pad with a solder sucker. the obvious problem with the heat gun is that it destroys plastic and heat sensitive components.
Looking from some advice from you pros...
I am using a Hakko FX-888D soldering station. Below is an image of some of my extra tips. The tip that is up a bit more than the others is the one that is currently on my iron.
(Attachment Link)
I have been doing some more precise soldering recently and I plan to change my tip to one of the smaller tips for this work. I have two options for a smaller tip, a chisel or pencil tip. I realize that I do not know the pros and cons of these tips, so I wanted to see if you guys had any feedback on the topic.
I know I should be looking for a tip that is about the same size as the combined size of the two pieces of work that I am soldering (or there abouts). Other than that, I don't really have more knowledge to make an informed decision. I am sure either would work, but I figure this is as good a time as any to learn something. :P Thx...
I have a two questions:
1) Should I tin my tip before and after every soldering session? (How about just desoldering?) Is just heating up a kester 44 63/37 on the tip and then wiping it off after sufficient? (And do I have to worry about the timing before it oxidizes or something...? I heard this mentioned in a youtube video about tinning the tip but not from other sources)
2) Does anyone (perhaps mkawa can shed some light on this?) know how to assemble the stand for the Geekhack solder spool? I can't for the life of me figure out how to put three bits of plastic together (I spent an embarrassingly long amount of time on this).
I use a brass sponge when I work and it is great for leaving a nice layer of solder on the tip.
I use a brass sponge when I work and it is great for leaving a nice layer of solder on the tip.
What is the general opinion about these? I looked around online and while most people say they're convenient, some say that they're a waste of money in that sponges do the job just fine. How long do these last for?
2) Does anyone (perhaps mkawa can shed some light on this?) know how to assemble the stand for the Geekhack solder spool? I can't for the life of me figure out how to put three bits of plastic together (I spent an embarrassingly long amount of time on this).If you are asking about what I think you are, don't feel bad, I too spent an embarrassing amount of time assembling the soldering kit :)) Check out the this thread for Mkawa's guidance (I'll paste a little here for reference): http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57970.msg1324874#msg1324874 - I'm sure you could PM him for further clarification.
yes yes!
the spool and soldapullt holder is a new addition, and actually works best if the spindle on it is glued to the base. if i weren't out of bases, i would make a quick video on how to glue them together. in the meantime, to secure the top piece to the spindle a bit better, insert the soldapullt into the big column in the top. the tip will lock into the spindle and secure it.
actually, gluing the spindle into the bottom piece is pretty straightforward. you can do it with acetone or standard cyanacrolate (crazy glue). for acetone (nail polish remover will work fine), brush or drop some acetone into the hold in the base, then insert the spindle. hold it there, straight up for about 15 minutes. it will glue in and stay that way. with cyanacrolate, it will set in about 30s to 1 minute, otherwise it's the same deal.
i don't recommend gluing the top piece to the spindle, as then you can't replace the solder spool if needed.
i don't recommend gluing the top piece to the spindle, as then you can't replace the solder spool if needed.
thermal shock on the tip is a non-issue with a high quality large-heater iron and high quality copper tips. if the heater can push enough power out quickly enough, the tip will actually not experience much if any thermal delta. if you think about it, you're just touching your tip to something that's at room temperature. but that's what you're constantly doing when you solder. the joint starts at room temperature, you thermally connect the tip to it, and bam. the specific heat capacity of water is larger than most metals, but the tip only contacts a small film of it, and as soon as that water hits vapor temp it phase changes away. in short, thermal shock for water cleaning of tips is highly overstated. however, sponges have basically unlimited debridement; that is, you can wipe as much crap and excess solder off of them as you want. you don't need more flux to pull crap off because the combination of nucleation of boiling water and the sponge will pull pretty much anything off of your tip.I use a brass sponge when I work and it is great for leaving a nice layer of solder on the tip.
What is the general opinion about these? I looked around online and while most people say they're convenient, some say that they're a waste of money in that sponges do the job just fine. How long do these last for?
I HATE the water sponges. For me brass is the only option.
Water sponges give tip shock when you clean the tip which will reduce its lifespan. Also, I find that the solder clumps and oxidizes on the tip when using these.
The brass sponge always leaves my tip in a perfect state. I don't have to think at all, just poke a couple times and it's good.
I only use a brass sponge and I wouldn't do it any other way. This is my opinion obviously.
They should last forever. I have never had to change mine.
thermal shock on the tip is a non-issue with a high quality large-heater iron and high quality copper tips. if the heater can push enough power out quickly enough, the tip will actually not experience much if any thermal delta. if you think about it, you're just touching your tip to something that's at room temperature. but that's what you're constantly doing when you solder. the joint starts at room temperature, you thermally connect the tip to it, and bam. the specific heat capacity of water is larger than most metals, but the tip only contacts a small film of it, and as soon as that water hits vapor temp it phase changes away. in short, thermal shock for water cleaning of tips is highly overstated. however, sponges have basically unlimited debridement; that is, you can wipe as much crap and excess solder off of them as you want. you don't need more flux to pull crap off because the combination of nucleation of boiling water and the sponge will pull pretty much anything off of your tip.I use a brass sponge when I work and it is great for leaving a nice layer of solder on the tip.
What is the general opinion about these? I looked around online and while most people say they're convenient, some say that they're a waste of money in that sponges do the job just fine. How long do these last for?
I HATE the water sponges. For me brass is the only option.
Water sponges give tip shock when you clean the tip which will reduce its lifespan. Also, I find that the solder clumps and oxidizes on the tip when using these.
The brass sponge always leaves my tip in a perfect state. I don't have to think at all, just poke a couple times and it's good.
I only use a brass sponge and I wouldn't do it any other way. This is my opinion obviously.
They should last forever. I have never had to change mine.
and this highlights the two problems with brass tips. they don't last very long, and they're not very good at absorbing excess solder on your tip. the reasons are as above. the brass sponge relies on an animal-fat-based flux on the sponge surfaces, because the brass alone is non-abrasive to the tip. if a material like steel was used that was harder than the tip material, you would significantly wear away at the tip just from the mechanical scraping action. so they use soft brass and flux it. however, as we all know, flux burns away. so your tip has a lifetime only as long as it carries flux. once the flux is gone it will become very near useless. this is why instructions for using brass sponges usually tell you to push your tip in for like a fraction of a second, twist and pull. this often won't get the crap off of your tip, because you need more scraping action, so you repeat, and each time you put your tip in you burn more of the limited flux off. the second issue is that the excess solder you're pulling off your tip only falls through the brass as long as there is flux on the brass. as soon as it hits some unfluxed brass, it will stick to the brass (that is, not flow, which is where the name flux for deoxidizing compounds comes from..). so effectively, as you use your brass sponge, you're filling it full of excess solder, and it will get to the point where it's a ball of tinned brass and not fluxed brass. at that point your only option is really to toss it out, as you're not going to be able to clean your tip very well on it.
sponges and water, however, are indescribably cheap (heck, i just cut up kitchen sponges if i don't have something else around). have worked for cleaning tips for a half decade, and with a properly provisioned iron, will basically have no negative effect on the iron itself, and when your sponge is so gross that even soap and water can't recover it, sponges are biodegradable. brass strips with lead and tin all over them are not.
thermal shock on the tip is a non-issue with a high quality large-heater iron and high quality copper tips. if the heater can push enough power out quickly enough, the tip will actually not experience much if any thermal delta.
Just to add to swill's and mkawa's conversation: I've been liking the brass sponge more than the water/sponge I've used in the past. I noticed when I first was learning to solder, that the thermal shock would kill the tips pretty quickly. We were using Weller WES51s and we seem to run through tips pretty regularly (new tip every week or two). And I found I had to tip the tip much more often. The brass sponge has me tinning less and my tip is going strong after a year of intermittent usage.a week or two?!?! that's insane. what would happen to the tip?
'Chemical paste' works magically well for me and saved precious tips of my vintage Weller several times.tip cleaning paste is just very corrosive flux.
Spare tips are no long available for my model, so situation is critical :D
http://www.hakko.com/english/maintenance/topic_kotesaki.html#case1
I don't use sandpaper, just cleaning wire and sponge is enough to clean tip before dunking it into chemical past. I use Hakko FS-100 but other brands will work same way.
And Weller video.
public service announcement:
cptbadass sent me these pictures of his soldering pencil when he was having trouble desoldering some joints:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kx7SSXZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/twSyQAX.jpg)
what you're looking at is a heavily oxidized pencil and tip. metal oxides have really poor thermal conductivity and will refuse to be tinned with solder. however, this is very easily fixable.
the solution is:
SCRUB THE CRAP OUT OF IT. use something hard. sandpaper works. baking soda slurry works. steel or brass brushes work (often used for painting; cheap at the hardware store). steel wool works. heck, sand slurrys work too.
bottom line: expose the underlying metal. the tip will either be made with tin (not the highest quality, but heck, it works), or copper (more typical). the shaft and the rear bit of the tip will be zinc plated steel. that won't take solder, but it will clean up nicely. KEEP YOUR IRON CLEAN. this is the key to maintaining thermal efficiency. without thermal efficiency, your iron is going to very slowly heat the workpiece, resulting in either the workpiece not getting hot enough to take solder, or getting too hot and burning up.
PROTIP: scrubbing a hot iron is a little bit easier than scrubbing a cold iron, as you can cover your brush with flux, and use the wetting action of the flux (really what's happening is that the flux is corrosive and helps chemically get rid of the oxide layer while your brush mechanically debrides the oxide layer). then, once your tip is clean, IMMEDIATELY tin it by melting a crapton of solder on it. keep the tip over something that won't burn if hot solder drops on it. at the end of this process you should have a clean iron and a shiny tinned tip.
happy soldering!!
i'd suggest something like 18-22g solid core, tinned without insulation if possible. it's pretty rare to find that stuff though, so the other option is magnet wire. it has an acrylic insulation that you just melt through to make an electrical connection. magnet wire is not tinned, so you'll have to flux it like any other wire.
I bought a 21g or 20g (I think, depending on which gauge measure you use) solid core tinned and uninsulated wire from element14 (newark) for relatively cheap. I will link it when I get to a computer.
I would expect that insulated wire would probably be easier to not short when hand wiring though. Wouldn't it?
Yeah, there are so many bad ass features on the JBC's. I would love to splurge for one someday. It's not like soldering will get outdated.
yah, that should work. just remember not to treat it like hookup wire. it's more like a bus bar.I bought a 21g or 20g (I think, depending on which gauge measure you use) solid core tinned and uninsulated wire from element14 (newark) for relatively cheap. I will link it when I get to a computer.
I would expect that insulated wire would probably be easier to not short when hand wiring though. Wouldn't it?
Here is the wire I was talking about (http://canada.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15003&langId=1&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=13M3059&storeId=10196) that I bought on element14 (newark)...
yah, that should work. just remember not to treat it like hookup wire. it's more like a bus bar.I bought a 21g or 20g (I think, depending on which gauge measure you use) solid core tinned and uninsulated wire from element14 (newark) for relatively cheap. I will link it when I get to a computer.
I would expect that insulated wire would probably be easier to not short when hand wiring though. Wouldn't it?
Here is the wire I was talking about (http://canada.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15003&langId=1&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=13M3059&storeId=10196) that I bought on element14 (newark)...
run a single long wire across the each matrix row and column, then modify the wire as necessary to get your diodes in. don't try to wire everything point to point.yah, that should work. just remember not to treat it like hookup wire. it's more like a bus bar.I bought a 21g or 20g (I think, depending on which gauge measure you use) solid core tinned and uninsulated wire from element14 (newark) for relatively cheap. I will link it when I get to a computer.
I would expect that insulated wire would probably be easier to not short when hand wiring though. Wouldn't it?
Here is the wire I was talking about (http://canada.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15003&langId=1&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=13M3059&storeId=10196) that I bought on element14 (newark)...
Can you put that in more layman's terms? :)
run a single long wire across the each matrix row and column, then modify the wire as necessary to get your diodes in. don't try to wire everything point to point.yah, that should work. just remember not to treat it like hookup wire. it's more like a bus bar.I bought a 21g or 20g (I think, depending on which gauge measure you use) solid core tinned and uninsulated wire from element14 (newark) for relatively cheap. I will link it when I get to a computer.
I would expect that insulated wire would probably be easier to not short when hand wiring though. Wouldn't it?
Here is the wire I was talking about (http://canada.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15003&langId=1&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=13M3059&storeId=10196) that I bought on element14 (newark)...
Can you put that in more layman's terms? :)
Maybe iron is not hot enough?
just out of curiosity, is it normal for there to be splattering while soldering?splattering can definitely happen, but it shouldn't always be happening. it generally indicates either an issue with heat, your technique, or the solder.
when I start making a new joint, little tiny balls of mildly hot solder/flux start shooting up to 2-3in away from the joint.
the panavise 301 with a set of panavise 316 and a crossbar and stem custom-made by melvang is the way to go. the 301 basic vise head is incredibly useful in tons of situations, and the stem part of the 315 is incredibly annoying to use.
antistatic mats are not needed. if you are working around static sensitive components get a grounding wrist strap instead.
the panavise 301 with a set of panavise 316 and a crossbar and stem custom-made by melvang is the way to go. the 301 basic vise head is incredibly useful in tons of situations, and the stem part of the 315 is incredibly annoying to use.
antistatic mats are not needed. if you are working around static sensitive components get a grounding wrist strap instead.
I just wanted to check back and say that the hakko 808 is worth every f^&*ing penny.
Thanks!
the panavise 301 with a set of panavise 316 and a crossbar and stem custom-made by melvang is the way to go. the 301 basic vise head is incredibly useful in tons of situations, and the stem part of the 315 is incredibly annoying to use.
antistatic mats are not needed. if you are working around static sensitive components get a grounding wrist strap instead.
This is the setup he is referring to: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45656.msg1349481#msg1349481
I think I am one of the only people who actually have this setup already because I got Melvang to custom build me the cross bar and stem. I have to admit this setup is absolutely awesome...
The $15 RadioShack desoldering iron is decent if you have a big desoldering project
melvang just let me know that he's done with another 5 18" units, stem and crossbar. they're going to go up on the geekhackers store as soon as i get them.the panavise 301 with a set of panavise 316 and a crossbar and stem custom-made by melvang is the way to go. the 301 basic vise head is incredibly useful in tons of situations, and the stem part of the 315 is incredibly annoying to use.
antistatic mats are not needed. if you are working around static sensitive components get a grounding wrist strap instead.
This is the setup he is referring to: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45656.msg1349481#msg1349481
I think I am one of the only people who actually have this setup already because I got Melvang to custom build me the cross bar and stem. I have to admit this setup is absolutely awesome...
I'm pretty sure you and mkawa are not the only ones who like Melvang setup. There will be more. The crossbar and and stem look amazing. :thumb:
I really like the crossbar. In Vietnam, the best thing I can find is the square stainless steel 10x10cm (Attachment Link)
Maybe you can order Melvang another crossbar with the length 66cm (~26inch) to hold 104 keyboard.
melvang just let me know that he's done with another 5 18" units, stem and crossbar. they're going to go up on the geekhackers store as soon as i get them.the panavise 301 with a set of panavise 316 and a crossbar and stem custom-made by melvang is the way to go. the 301 basic vise head is incredibly useful in tons of situations, and the stem part of the 315 is incredibly annoying to use.
antistatic mats are not needed. if you are working around static sensitive components get a grounding wrist strap instead.
This is the setup he is referring to: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45656.msg1349481#msg1349481
I think I am one of the only people who actually have this setup already because I got Melvang to custom build me the cross bar and stem. I have to admit this setup is absolutely awesome...
I'm pretty sure you and mkawa are not the only ones who like Melvang setup. There will be more. The crossbar and and stem look amazing. :thumb:
I really like the crossbar. In Vietnam, the best thing I can find is the square stainless steel 10x10cm (Attachment Link)
Maybe you can order Melvang another crossbar with the length 66cm (~26inch) to hold 104 keyboard.
PM him about the 26" crossbar. he can make it, no problem.
Two questions:yes. i clean it up, but it is generally ok to leave it there, and is classified as no-clean
1) Is Kester 44 a no clean flux? As in is it okay to leave flux residue on the PCB after soldering?
2) While attempting to desolder the mini USB on a Rosewill, I accidentally sucked up the pads on the PCB into the soldapullt. Is there any way to fix this (maybe insert solder from other side of PCB, opposite to the iron so the solder goes towards the iron..? Not sure)?for a mini USB, i would find a point on the board that is electronically connected to that point and solder a 26-28ga jumper wire. when you're desoldering small surface mount pads, don't be afraid to pull your iron away too quickly, and it's fine to keep some distance between the soldapullt and the pad. the soldapullts have lots of suction and don't have to physically connect to the joint.
Is this visor (recommended elsewhere in this thread for the magnification) sufficient eye protection, or are goggles the way to go?if you feel you need goggles when you're soldering, your iron is way too hot. also, i have one of those i'm giving away free in the classifieds "free stuff" thread. PM me if you want it.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multipower-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403024244&sr=8-1&keywords=magnifier+visor
Alright guys. I'm thinking about from my cheap $10 soldering iron... I don't want to spend a fortune but I suppose around a $100 max would be ok.
I know geekhackers.org carries the CL1481, but I can't help wonder for around that price if I might as well get a temperature controlled iron with its own stand. I'v seen a lot of people recommend the Hakko 888, but unfortunately the only the digital version around which seems a little more difficult to use but is not a deal breaker. I really don't want to read over all 70 pages of this thread and scour google for more info. Any suggestions?
2) While attempting to desolder the mini USB on a Rosewill, I accidentally sucked up the pads on the PCB into the soldapullt. Is there any way to fix this (maybe insert solder from other side of PCB, opposite to the iron so the solder goes towards the iron..? Not sure)?for a mini USB, i would find a point on the board that is electronically connected to that point and solder a 26-28ga jumper wire. when you're desoldering small surface mount pads, don't be afraid to pull your iron away too quickly, and it's fine to keep some distance between the soldapullt and the pad. the soldapullts have lots of suction and don't have to physically connect to the joint.
another option for connecting to a lifted pad is to use a craft knife to expose a little bit of copper trace that's leading away from the pad, flux that copper and then try to join the part to the exposed piece of trace. this can be tricky if things are really tight. the jumper wire is generally preferred. jumper wires are also used when you realize you made a mistake on a PCB _after_ you prototype it :P
2) While attempting to desolder the mini USB on a Rosewill, I accidentally sucked up the pads on the PCB into the soldapullt. Is there any way to fix this (maybe insert solder from other side of PCB, opposite to the iron so the solder goes towards the iron..? Not sure)?for a mini USB, i would find a point on the board that is electronically connected to that point and solder a 26-28ga jumper wire. when you're desoldering small surface mount pads, don't be afraid to pull your iron away too quickly, and it's fine to keep some distance between the soldapullt and the pad. the soldapullts have lots of suction and don't have to physically connect to the joint.
another option for connecting to a lifted pad is to use a craft knife to expose a little bit of copper trace that's leading away from the pad, flux that copper and then try to join the part to the exposed piece of trace. this can be tricky if things are really tight. the jumper wire is generally preferred. jumper wires are also used when you realize you made a mistake on a PCB _after_ you prototype it :P
Thanks!
Is this a common problem...? Or is the Rosewill PCB just low quality? I had my temperature set to a little above 700 F (maybe 710?)
Alright guys. I'm thinking about from my cheap $10 soldering iron... I don't want to spend a fortune but I suppose around a $100 max would be ok.
I know geekhackers.org carries the CL1481, but I can't help wonder for around that price if I might as well get a temperature controlled iron with its own stand. I'v seen a lot of people recommend the Hakko 888, but unfortunately the only the digital version around which seems a little more difficult to use but is not a deal breaker. I really don't want to read over all 70 pages of this thread and scour google for more info. Any suggestions?
2) While attempting to desolder the mini USB on a Rosewill, I accidentally sucked up the pads on the PCB into the soldapullt. Is there any way to fix this (maybe insert solder from other side of PCB, opposite to the iron so the solder goes towards the iron..? Not sure)?for a mini USB, i would find a point on the board that is electronically connected to that point and solder a 26-28ga jumper wire. when you're desoldering small surface mount pads, don't be afraid to pull your iron away too quickly, and it's fine to keep some distance between the soldapullt and the pad. the soldapullts have lots of suction and don't have to physically connect to the joint.
another option for connecting to a lifted pad is to use a craft knife to expose a little bit of copper trace that's leading away from the pad, flux that copper and then try to join the part to the exposed piece of trace. this can be tricky if things are really tight. the jumper wire is generally preferred. jumper wires are also used when you realize you made a mistake on a PCB _after_ you prototype it :P
Thanks!
Is this a common problem...? Or is the Rosewill PCB just low quality? I had my temperature set to a little above 700 F (maybe 710?)
2) While attempting to desolder the mini USB on a Rosewill, I accidentally sucked up the pads on the PCB into the soldapullt. Is there any way to fix this (maybe insert solder from other side of PCB, opposite to the iron so the solder goes towards the iron..? Not sure)?for a mini USB, i would find a point on the board that is electronically connected to that point and solder a 26-28ga jumper wire. when you're desoldering small surface mount pads, don't be afraid to pull your iron away too quickly, and it's fine to keep some distance between the soldapullt and the pad. the soldapullts have lots of suction and don't have to physically connect to the joint.
another option for connecting to a lifted pad is to use a craft knife to expose a little bit of copper trace that's leading away from the pad, flux that copper and then try to join the part to the exposed piece of trace. this can be tricky if things are really tight. the jumper wire is generally preferred. jumper wires are also used when you realize you made a mistake on a PCB _after_ you prototype it :P
Thanks!
Is this a common problem...? Or is the Rosewill PCB just low quality? I had my temperature set to a little above 700 F (maybe 710?)
very common, and one of the reasons that i absolutely can't stand desoldering wick (which also universally burns your fingers when you use it on top of everything). two tips: first, feed more solder onto a pad before soldering it; this generates more thermal mass so that it's harder to overheat the pad. second, cock your soldapullt and put it into position before heating the solder. then, touch your iron to the solder (not the pad!), and as soon as the solder goes molten, move your iron off the solder and hit the button.
i'm obviously biased here, but to present a factual point, a temperature controlled iron used with 63/37 kester 44 gets set to 350C and never moves from that temperature.
solder sucker + soldering iron to desolder 87 switches, my first project, am i being ambitious?
Here are a few tips I wish someone had given me before my first desoldering project:
- If it's a dual sided, thick PCB, leave the tip of the iron on the joint for a full 1-2 seconds (with temp around 600f) to ensure all of the solder liquifies. This will make it suck out much easier.
- If you are having trouble with a joint, heat it and add fresh solder, then attempt to remove again. works much better.
- You will probably have many switches where you remove 95% of the solder, but one or two of the pins are still stuck to the pad by a tiny amount of solder (again, mostly with double sided PCBs). If this happens, use the hot iron tip to free the pin while you pull the switch from the other side. If you're unlucky, two pins may do this at once, and you'll have to go back and forth between them. Just don't use force, or you'll pull out the copper trace and have a bigger problem.
Of course, if anyone wants to suggest even better techniques than these, go for it.
Thanks. I'll also be desoldering 87 switches in order to install some clears. Any advice helps :)
OK, so I just tried my 808 for the first time, and it's amazing! But when I tried to coat the tip in solder when I was finished, it just beaded up and fell off. Would not stick at all. what's the deal, and how do I get it to stick?may need more flux. also keep in mind that only about 2mm from the tip is tinned. the rest is plated with a material that solder will not melt onto.
A brief field report for my fellow soldering newbies: I built a RedBoard PTH kick yesterday[1]. It's the second SparkFun kit I've done - both were fun, worked as expected, and came with good instructions. I'd definitely be comfortable recommending them.
I did make the mistake of trying to have a conversation while I worked. It ended up okay though, because it gave me a chance to try my Soldapullt, which worked like a champ.
We could use a multimeter at work, so I'm planning to do the Elenco multimeter kit up on Geekhackers[2] soon.
[1] https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10908
[2] http://www.geekhackers.org/collections/electronics-kits/products/diy-multimeter-kit
I just wanted to check back and say that the hakko 808 is worth every f^&*ing penny.
Thanks!
speaking of the 808, apparently hakko just revised it into the fr-300
tequipment really likes it: http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko-808-vs-FR-300-Desoldering-Tool/
it has some minor but oft-requested features: power button, more compact, easer tip changing, and less vibration.
i'm a little worried about the increase in suction in its potential tendency to lift pads, but looks interesting regardless. if anyone picks one up, please review it here!
another thing that's crucial to report is whether it's still made in japan
oops. reading fail.
note i have a large investment in 808 tips, so i probably won't be upgrading...
speaking of the 808, apparently hakko just revised it into the fr-300
tequipment really likes it: http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko-808-vs-FR-300-Desoldering-Tool/
it has some minor but oft-requested features: power button, more compact, easer tip changing, and less vibration.
i'm a little worried about the increase in suction in its potential tendency to lift pads, but looks interesting regardless. if anyone picks one up, please review it here!
I received my custom crossbar and stem (for use with Panavise 316 arms) from Melvang a couple weeks ago and finally had a chance to use them. They're a huge improvement over the equivalent parts that come with the Panavise 315, and Melvang is a great seller. Highly recommended if you're putting together a PCB holder.
Thanks Melvang!
I have the same setup. Congrats, it is awesome. Make sure to get a an aluminum or steel plate with cut outs and you will have an awesome lube station as well.
I have the same setup. Congrats, it is awesome. Make sure to get a an aluminum or steel plate with cut outs and you will have an awesome lube station as well.
Hm, not sure I understand the part about a plate and cutouts. I've never lubed my switches so that's probably why. Do you have a pic showing the setup you're describing?
How did I do on my first soldering job? Sorry about the mess; I don't have 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean off the flux.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9xHacFy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8SqFVap.jpg)
How did I do on my first soldering job? Sorry about the mess; I don't have 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean off the flux.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9xHacFy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8SqFVap.jpg)
How did I do on my first soldering job? Sorry about the mess; I don't have 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean off the flux.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9xHacFy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8SqFVap.jpg)
Bit too much on the furthest to the left, first and third pin from the right could use more. Especially the one furthest to the right.
You can see it in action here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58969.msg1349714#msg1349714). Basically you put a plate in the PCB holder and put all your switches in the plate that you want to mod. Then you open and mod them while secure in the plate, which is why you need the cutouts so you can remove the top cover of the switch. Make sense?
FYI, melvang made another bath of crossbars and sent them to me. They'll be available more generally soon
1) What setup do you guys solder with (chairs/table height included)? I am rather focus minded, so once I start, I like to finish - soldered for 5 hours straight, with my back aching afterwards because I was always kind of hunched over trying to get the tweezers to poke the SMD into the little pool of solder correctly. I have a Panavise, but didn't use it because I was afraid that I would break the PCB if I applied too much pressure on it (have to rest my wrists on the table/PCB or else my hands shake way too much to do anything).
I don't know the exact heights of my table/chair, but I have to hunch and it hurts my back. That said, I'm really tall, so I hunch all the time and my back always hurts. So I'm the wrong person to ask. But as with everything ergo related, fitting things to your proper height will help. :thumb:
I don't know the exact heights of my table/chair, but I have to hunch and it hurts my back. That said, I'm really tall, so I hunch all the time and my back always hurts. So I'm the wrong person to ask. But as with everything ergo related, fitting things to your proper height will help. :thumb:
I would imagine higher table/shorter chair would help? I tried that (sat on a little foot stool), but then my shoulders are uncomfortably raised up higher.
2) What is the best way to desolder a switch? I had to desolder a few times due to really dumb mistakes, and each time I found that I often had just a tiny bit of solder left over in the joint that would cause the switch to stick. Fortunately, it was often just one of the pins, so I could just heat it up and pull out the switch on the other side after the solder melted. It was a pain in the ass though, and made me wonder how people desolder entire boards - I was tired enough just desoldering 15 switches (and an LED in a switch, that was even harder). I used a soldapullt
it took me 4 hours for a fullsize board with a soldapult :( so hard :(
it was a cherry board with 'internal diodes' so it was like doing a whole board with LEDs.
1. Not sure of the exact height, but, I have tried a couple of setups, and the one where I had to hunch a little was the one that worked best for me. Having the table a little higher so I don't have to arch my back so much didn't really work out as well, as it was uncomfortable for my hands.
2. I use a soldapullt and 9/10 times it will suck all the solder out of the holes, if it doesn't, I reapply some solder and repeat, there are however some stubborn joints, and they have to be removed as you said, heat the joint with one hand, pull the switch with the other.
3. It will work well, I think the reason 70% might not have worked as well is that the flux would have spread on the whole PCB via the dilute IPA, use 99% and give it a couple of good wipes, PCB should be nice and shiny.
To pay for the new hakko desoldering iron I want, I should rent my 808 out to DIY keyboarders...
To pay for the new hakko desoldering iron I want, I should rent my 808 out to DIY keyboarders...
Do they include a stand with the new model?
1. Not sure of the exact height, but, I have tried a couple of setups, and the one where I had to hunch a little was the one that worked best for me. Having the table a little higher so I don't have to arch my back so much didn't really work out as well, as it was uncomfortable for my hands.
2. I use a soldapullt and 9/10 times it will suck all the solder out of the holes, if it doesn't, I reapply some solder and repeat, there are however some stubborn joints, and they have to be removed as you said, heat the joint with one hand, pull the switch with the other.
3. It will work well, I think the reason 70% might not have worked as well is that the flux would have spread on the whole PCB via the dilute IPA, use 99% and give it a couple of good wipes, PCB should be nice and shiny.
Thanks! Regarding desoldering switches, do you like to desolder a lot of joints before you start trying to pull switches out? Or do you go one by one?
1. Not sure of the exact height, but, I have tried a couple of setups, and the one where I had to hunch a little was the one that worked best for me. Having the table a little higher so I don't have to arch my back so much didn't really work out as well, as it was uncomfortable for my hands.
2. I use a soldapullt and 9/10 times it will suck all the solder out of the holes, if it doesn't, I reapply some solder and repeat, there are however some stubborn joints, and they have to be removed as you said, heat the joint with one hand, pull the switch with the other.
3. It will work well, I think the reason 70% might not have worked as well is that the flux would have spread on the whole PCB via the dilute IPA, use 99% and give it a couple of good wipes, PCB should be nice and shiny.
Thanks! Regarding desoldering switches, do you like to desolder a lot of joints before you start trying to pull switches out? Or do you go one by one?
I do them all, then remove switches. Too much changing tools and wasted time if you do both processes at the same time.
After I figured out how to keep the soldapult clean it would suck everything up almost every time. I had to go back and add more solder probably 5 times for the whole thing. Each switch went fairly fast but it took me a few hours to get the whole mod done.
So I'm looking to get into soldering, and I don't have an iron. I read the first thread and I want to get started on the cheap (Under $50). I see the Edsyn CL1481 is supposed to fit this budget, but I can't find them anywhere except the geekhackers.org store ($80). At that price should I just get a Hakko 888D from Amazon at $91? Regardless, it's a bit out of my initial budget, so is there something new / different that I should look at? Refurb Hakko units or Wellers perhaps? My first project will likely be desoldering switches to swap them out with MX Clears (Filco TKL). I'll need a soldapullt for that I'm assuming.
Any tips would be great. Thanks!
P.S. I read about half of this entire thread but some of the info is quite outdated. The links in the OP are mostly dead.
When doing through-hole soldering I often find myself struggling to position the PCB well, after I've placed the part and flipped the board over. So far I've been propping the board up with hand tools in an ad hoc way, since it will rarely stay flat itself (because of other parts that are on the board and not evenly distributed). My Panavise isn't a lot of help in this situation, because the board needs to be sitting on something to hold the parts in place.
Is there a good technique for doing this? I feel like I've done a poor job of explaining what I mean, but hopefully you know what I'm talking about anyway.
So I'm looking to get into soldering, and I don't have an iron. I read the first thread and I want to get started on the cheap (Under $50). I see the Edsyn CL1481 is supposed to fit this budget, but I can't find them anywhere except the geekhackers.org store ($80). At that price should I just get a Hakko 888D from Amazon at $91? Regardless, it's a bit out of my initial budget, so is there something new / different that I should look at? Refurb Hakko units or Wellers perhaps? My first project will likely be desoldering switches to swap them out with MX Clears (Filco TKL). I'll need a soldapullt for that I'm assuming.
Any tips would be great. Thanks!
P.S. I read about half of this entire thread but some of the info is quite outdated. The links in the OP are mostly dead.
If it is a component with longer legs that will be clipped you can bend the legs out to keep them in place. For something with shorter legs like switches you could try an alligator clip on one of the legs until you get one of the pins soldered.
Thanks! Regarding desoldering switches, do you like to desolder a lot of joints before you start trying to pull switches out? Or do you go one by one?
Is this overkill for personal use? I like the idea of have 2 different tips.
http://sandiego.en.craigslist.org/csd/for/4540878052.html (http://sandiego.en.craigslist.org/csd/for/4540878052.html)
So, I just bought a Hakko 888D from B+D Enterprises. While emailing one of their engineers back and forth I was talking to him about our community and I think they're willing to put together some starter / deluxe kits for soldering and desoldering. This is what he quoted me for the following:
Hakko 888D $76
2 x Indium .032" 20ft bobbins $0
5ft of desoldering braid/ wick $3.50
Hakko PD-03 desoldering pump $12.95
Hakko 599B tip cleaner $6
no-clean flux pen $8.95
CHP120 trimmers $0
Shipping to my home in Indiana via UPS: $0
Total: $107.40
Couldn't have expected a better deal. I think they're going to put together some kits like this and make them available to the Geekhack community. He invoiced me via Paypal. Customer service was outstanding, and even if their price wasn't pretty much the best deal you can get, I would still do business with them. The deluxe kits would include the same things with larger quantites of solder and wick.
If you would like to take advantage of this same deal, email: dave.anderson -at- bdent -dot- com
So, I just bought a Hakko 888D from B+D Enterprises. While emailing one of their engineers back and forth I was talking to him about our community and I think they're willing to put together some starter / deluxe kits for soldering and desoldering. This is what he quoted me for the following:
Hakko 888D $76
2 x Indium .032" 20ft bobbins $0
5ft of desoldering braid/ wick $3.50
Hakko PD-03 desoldering pump $12.95
Hakko 599B tip cleaner $6
no-clean flux pen $8.95
CHP120 trimmers $0
Shipping to my home in Indiana via UPS: $0
Total: $107.40
Couldn't have expected a better deal. I think they're going to put together some kits like this and make them available to the Geekhack community. He invoiced me via Paypal. Customer service was outstanding, and even if their price wasn't pretty much the best deal you can get, I would still do business with them. The deluxe kits would include the same things with larger quantites of solder and wick.
If you would like to take advantage of this same deal, email: dave.anderson -at- bdent -dot- com
So, I just bought a Hakko 888D from B+D Enterprises. While emailing one of their engineers back and forth I was talking to him about our community and I think they're willing to put together some starter / deluxe kits for soldering and desoldering. This is what he quoted me for the following:
Hakko 888D $76
2 x Indium .032" 20ft bobbins $0
5ft of desoldering braid/ wick $3.50
Hakko PD-03 desoldering pump $12.95
Hakko 599B tip cleaner $6
no-clean flux pen $8.95
CHP120 trimmers $0
Shipping to my home in Indiana via UPS: $0
Total: $107.40
Couldn't have expected a better deal. I think they're going to put together some kits like this and make them available to the Geekhack community. He invoiced me via Paypal. Customer service was outstanding, and even if their price wasn't pretty much the best deal you can get, I would still do business with them. The deluxe kits would include the same things with larger quantites of solder and wick.
If you would like to take advantage of this same deal, email: dave.anderson -at- bdent -dot- com
Sounds like you got a great deal.
What are Indium bobbins? I did a quick search but didn't understand what I found (the first page of results included another thread here on GH and... multiple references to sensors for cryogenics).
I filed tip of my solder sucker and desoldered swtiches today and it worked like a charm. The filed tip fits to iron tip very well and I can sucks solder easily.
I got this nice idea from some GH member at this thread long ago, IIRC. I can't find the original message now.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Wcsozbpl.jpg)
So I might want to start soldering. Thanks to the smallfry kit...
Right now all I have is a Radioshack 35W iron. Beat up and old, with random solder in the drawer.
I want to get the Hakko FX901 cordless iron. It supposedly works well for 2 whole hours on NiMH batteries, and the reviews on Amazon confirm that.
So it should be good for my light usage. Only downside is that it only has ONE type of conical tip: http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx901_tips.html#productNav
What do you guys think?
Also what else do I need besides:
- brass sponge
- solder (I prefer lead-free)
- soldapult
Is the third hand (magnifying glass + stand thing) necessary or even useful?
I was thinking of just putting all of the diodes/switches on the pcb, flipping it over, and letting it sit on the table.
I've never done this before >.>
The third hands are pretty much absolute crap. If you want a good work holder get a Panavise and the PCB holder arms (model number 316 is just the arms) and mkawa has the brackets for the base that I built on geekhackers.org. I only sent him 4 sets so if he is out of stock I can build you one though it will have a lead time.
So I might want to start soldering. Thanks to the smallfry kit...
Right now all I have is a Radioshack 35W iron. Beat up and old, with random solder in the drawer.
I want to get the Hakko FX901 cordless iron. It supposedly works well for 2 whole hours on NiMH batteries, and the reviews on Amazon confirm that.
So it should be good for my light usage. Only downside is that it only has ONE type of conical tip: http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx901_tips.html#productNav
What do you guys think?
Also what else do I need besides:
- brass sponge
- solder (I prefer lead-free)
- soldapult
Is the third hand (magnifying glass + stand thing) necessary or even useful?
I was thinking of just putting all of the diodes/switches on the pcb, flipping it over, and letting it sit on the table.
I've never done this before >.>
I wouldn't recommend that iron just because of the 2 hour battery life. More often than not I find myself soldering for more than 2 hours at a hot. Also, NiMH batterys lose power at a fairly drastic rate when the charge starts to deplete. Unlike LiPO or LiON batteries where you have full power until the are dead.
There is some debate on brass sponge vs damp sponge. Mkawa recommends the damp sponge iirc.
Can I ask why you want lead free solder? Leaded solder is not dangerous and I have read reports that it is actually better for the enviroment than RoHS compliant lead free. Plus, lead free solder is more difficult to work with especially when desoldering. It requires more heat to fully melt and as a result there is a higher chance of lifting pads and such when working with it. When I desolder a board with lead free solder I go through each joint and reflow while adding leaded solder before attempting to remove any. Makes life much easier.
The third hands are pretty much absolute crap. If you want a good work holder get a Panavise and the PCB holder arms (model number 316 is just the arms) and mkawa has the brackets for the base that I built on geekhackers.org. I only sent him 4 sets so if he is out of stock I can build you one though it will have a lead time.
I would recommend about any other iron than that radio shack one with the conical tip. For what we do that us about the last shape of tip you will want.
So I might want to start soldering. Thanks to the smallfry kit...
Right now all I have is a Radioshack 35W iron. Beat up and old, with random solder in the drawer.
I want to get the Hakko FX901 cordless iron. It supposedly works well for 2 whole hours on NiMH batteries, and the reviews on Amazon confirm that.
So it should be good for my light usage. Only downside is that it only has ONE type of conical tip: http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx901_tips.html#productNav
What do you guys think?
Also what else do I need besides:
- brass sponge
- solder (I prefer lead-free)
- soldapult
Is the third hand (magnifying glass + stand thing) necessary or even useful?
I was thinking of just putting all of the diodes/switches on the pcb, flipping it over, and letting it sit on the table.
I've never done this before >.>
I wouldn't recommend that iron just because of the 2 hour battery life. More often than not I find myself soldering for more than 2 hours at a hot. Also, NiMH batterys lose power at a fairly drastic rate when the charge starts to deplete. Unlike LiPO or LiON batteries where you have full power until the are dead.
There is some debate on brass sponge vs damp sponge. Mkawa recommends the damp sponge iirc.
Can I ask why you want lead free solder? Leaded solder is not dangerous and I have read reports that it is actually better for the enviroment than RoHS compliant lead free. Plus, lead free solder is more difficult to work with especially when desoldering. It requires more heat to fully melt and as a result there is a higher chance of lifting pads and such when working with it. When I desolder a board with lead free solder I go through each joint and reflow while adding leaded solder before attempting to remove any. Makes life much easier.
The third hands are pretty much absolute crap. If you want a good work holder get a Panavise and the PCB holder arms (model number 316 is just the arms) and mkawa has the brackets for the base that I built on geekhackers.org. I only sent him 4 sets so if he is out of stock I can build you one though it will have a lead time.
I would recommend about any other iron than that radio shack one with the conical tip. For what we do that us about the last shape of tip you will want.
Hm.. I don't mind being forced to stop at 2 hours, gives me an automatic sanity check lol. Plus I could just keep a second set of batteries charging while I work. Also, according to reviews (one random website and a bunch on amazon) the heat level actually stays consistent until absolute battery death. I just really hate wires ):
The lead-free thing was just me acting on instinct. So fumes from soldering with leaded solder is safe?
And thanks for the advice on the panavise. I've actually been wanting one to hold my dremel and other purposes. I'll take a look at those.
Currently my only soldering tip is the Hakko T18-D16 (1.6mm chisel) that came with my FX-888D.
Do you think I'd be well served by getting something smaller for SMT? It looks like the main options would be the T18-D12 (1.2mm chisel) or T18-D08 (0.8mm chisel).
Currently my only soldering tip is the Hakko T18-D16 (1.6mm chisel) that came with my FX-888D.
Do you think I'd be well served by getting something smaller for SMT? It looks like the main options would be the T18-D12 (1.2mm chisel) or T18-D08 (0.8mm chisel).
The fumes from leaded solder are from the flux not the lead. Yes it is perfectly safe. The reason for lead free solder and the RoHS push is because of enviromental concerns of the lead in solder joints. The same thing happened with wheel weights on cars. Those are mostly zinc now instead of lead. Lead is also being phased out of fishing sinkers and shot in hunting bullets and shotgun shells for the same reasons. Just remember to wash your hands after handling the solder. That really is the only precaution that should be taken as the exposure levels for the hobbyist are low enough to not pose an issue. Also, don't let kiddos and pets chew on it. It won't kill them and one time won't be an issue but it does take a long time for it to leave the body and has an accumulating effect.
I actually have a worse scenario at work with the amount of stick welding I do and the manganese fumes associated with that than the amount of soldering I do at home.
The fumes from leaded solder are from the flux not the lead. Yes it is perfectly safe. The reason for lead free solder and the RoHS push is because of enviromental concerns of the lead in solder joints. The same thing happened with wheel weights on cars. Those are mostly zinc now instead of lead. Lead is also being phased out of fishing sinkers and shot in hunting bullets and shotgun shells for the same reasons. Just remember to wash your hands after handling the solder. That really is the only precaution that should be taken as the exposure levels for the hobbyist are low enough to not pose an issue. Also, don't let kiddos and pets chew on it. It won't kill them and one time won't be an issue but it does take a long time for it to leave the body and has an accumulating effect.
I actually have a worse scenario at work with the amount of stick welding I do and the manganese fumes associated with that than the amount of soldering I do at home.
Hmm I see, makes sense. Thanks for the advice, I'll be going with leaded solder then.
One other thing, you mentioned before that conical tips are the absolute worse for what we do? Or did I read that wrong?
One other thing, you mentioned before that conical tips are the absolute worse for what we do? Or did I read that wrong?
Hm thanks for the tips (haha >.>)
Ended up going for mkawa's soldering kit with the Edsyn CL1481. Comes with 3 diff sized tips and I trust that they're the proper shape lol.
One other thing, you mentioned before that conical tips are the absolute worse for what we do? Or did I read that wrong?
Someone recommended watching some EEVBlog videos to me, and they are fairly informative (but his voice annoys me a little). http://www.eevblog.com/2011/07/02/eevblog-183-soldering-tutorial-part-2/
You can watch the whole thing if you want, but jump to 15:50-17:25 to see a comparison between chisel and conical tips (and why they are worse).
it's possible, but i'd recommend the PV 396 instead as an "all-in-one" vise head.
just to ask all of you
If I'm desoldering a modern keyboard, something built in the past 10 years. Can I safely expect it to be done using lead free solder?
Am wondering why Cherry keyboards seem to be so easy to desolder, but most other modern keyboards seem harder.
Is the Filco Majestouch 2 built using lead free solder?
The Ducky Shine 3?
The Tipro/ Cherry POS keyboards of the past 10 years?
Just trying to get a grip on how long desoldering should take. I always panic when I hold a tip to a solder joint for 10 seconds and nothing seems to happen. That was the case with some solder joints on my Tipro (it was also 2x sided PCB).
Yet on some keyboards (especially Cherry), it takes only 1-2 seconds for the solder to fully melt and be totally extractable in one pop of the soldapullt.
As I don't have a temperature regulator, I don't know how hot my solder iron is.
this is actually exactly what we're talking about. the panavise 300 base is way way better than any helping hands. panavise sells a pcb holding kit for it, but i'm not crazy about most of it, particularly the stem and crossbar. melvang and i worked out a better replacement, which he has made a couple batches of. for a full pcb holding solution, one of his stem and crossbar sets plus a panavise 316 set is fantastic. he's saying additionally that he thinks he can make a superior replacement for the 316 as well.
in theory, i have his last batch of stem and crossbar sets that i am selling on commission for him (i think? you just sent them to me melvang :P, i have no idea what to do with them). but in practice, they're in a moving box and not in the same place i am right now XD
i want to take further conversation about this out of this thread, because it is artisan, but please contact melvang and work things out with him. he will let me know what to send where after he is paid directly :)this is actually exactly what we're talking about. the panavise 300 base is way way better than any helping hands. panavise sells a pcb holding kit for it, but i'm not crazy about most of it, particularly the stem and crossbar. melvang and i worked out a better replacement, which he has made a couple batches of. for a full pcb holding solution, one of his stem and crossbar sets plus a panavise 316 set is fantastic. he's saying additionally that he thinks he can make a superior replacement for the 316 as well.
in theory, i have his last batch of stem and crossbar sets that i am selling on commission for him (i think? you just sent them to me melvang :P, i have no idea what to do with them). but in practice, they're in a moving box and not in the same place i am right now XD
Let me know if you're selling please :D
And for how much $$
I haven't been soldering/desoldering for very long. So the other night I sat down to pull the Monterey Blues from an old Chicony and I got about 3/4 of the way through when my 808 took a sh*t on me. Completely inoperative. I'd pull the trigger and nothing. No sound coming from the pump whatsoever.there are three ways to try to clear the tip. 1) heat the 808 up to a higher temp than normal (use the tiny trim pot on the handle), wait a bit then hit the vacuum button until it's clear
I packed everything up, went to bed and that was. Just read the manual earlier today and in the troubleshooting section it indicated that the cause was probably a blocked filter (behind the collection cup). My filter was definitely dirty but I didn't think that was enough to shut the pump down. I took their word for it, changed the filter and bang! Fully operational again. I ran that poker/spring contraption back through the nozzle just for the heck of it and I was back up and running again in no time.
Now that I am really used to the 808 (and a bit more familiar with desoldering in general) I can honestly say that the 808 rocks. I zipped through the remainder of that board in no time. Two key things to remember:
1. Heat the leads, not the solder.
2. Don't release the trigger until AFTER you've lifted the nozzle back off the lead (even then I keep it pressed for a little bit longer). I acutally practice this a bit every time I sit down. If you don't get this right the solder will block the nozzle and you've just squandered your time advantage on nozzle maintenance (i.e. cleaning the blockages from the nozzle).
Cheers,
K
I just finished my 2nd ErgoDox (first one that I did completely myself) yesterday. There's flux left over on all the joints. I have a flux cleaning pen, but the flux has hardened quite a bit so need to scrub at the flux with the pen tip quite a bit.
Is there a better way to clean the flux? Should I even bother? About the only reason I want to do this is to get rid of a lingering flux odor.
did you use 99% isopropyl alcohol or a lower percentage version?
kim wipes are kind of a waste of money when you can use a toothbrush and soap quite successfully.
for actual sensitive lint-free high purity fiber situations, i recommend photographic solutions pec pads instead. i also recommend eclipse lens cleaner (anhydrous methyl alcohol) for serious cleaning of sensitive components.
that said, i don't think you need any of these things for pcbs. a tooth brush, a menda pump dispenser and MG chem anhydrous isopropyl from fry's is like, overkill even. soap and water is also quite effective, just use 70-90% iso as a final rinse to dry everything off.
+1 for toothbrush,
I have used gasoline (petrol) and works great, although mkawa said something about cancer, so I started using gloves while working with gasoline. But yeah, gasoline followed by a wipe with max conc. IPA.
+1 for toothbrush,
I have used gasoline (petrol) and works great, although mkawa said something about cancer, so I started using gloves while working with gasoline. But yeah, gasoline followed by a wipe with max conc. IPA.
Anyone have a reliable online resource shipping within US for 1% 470 Ohm resistors? Also looking for a place to get SMD led's for NerD 60% PCB's...
What do you guys think of this unit?Wow you could even make a grilled cheese sandwich with that thing!
http://www.amazon.com/ALL-ONE-X-TRONIC-SOLDERING-PREHEATING/dp/B00DRHRZ3S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
i am VERY down on aoyue and x-tronic. they cheap out on every important component to try to out-bullet-point the competition at their price points. further, you don't need 90% of that stuff. to solder, all you need is a very high quality hot stick. more and you're risking crappy heaters, less and you could injure yourself, frankly.
2) The real problem comes in keeping the tip shiny. I don’t have any idea how to do this well. Thus far I am using sandpaper and Brasso (obviously after the tip cools) but people tell me not to over sand.I have basically no trouble with this using a Hakko 888D and the kit tip it came with. The wet sponge is the most important tool here. Wipe the tip on the sponge very frequently, every time you want to set the iron down. Occasionally adding some solder to the tip and wiping it on the brass sponge gets off slightly more stuck stuff and restores the tip to like-new condition. I don’t think you should ever need to resort to sandpaper.
3) It is desoldering that leads to tears and frustration for me. It’s hell. It takes multiple tries and lots of solder wick and endless pumps on my soldapullt, and even when a switch looks desoldered it often isn’t. How will an expensive station help?What are you desoldering? For desoldering keyboard switches I don’t ever need any solder wick. Just heat the joint with an iron and suck with the soldapullt and BAM. When the switch leads are bent over and pressed down onto the pad, it takes another 2 steps: (1) heat the joint and suck the solder out with soldapullt, (2) heat the bent-over lead and pad and pry the two apart using a dental pick – it’s usually quite easy to get the lead to 'pop' loose of the pad it was stuck to, once most of the solder is gone, (3) bend the lead straight with some pliers.
4) When soldering small things I feel the challenge doesn’t lie in the soldering station but finding a way to hold the components in place. Again a more expensive station won’t help. Neither will these helping hands.Have you tried a panavise?
How did I do on my first soldering job? Sorry about the mess; I don't have 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean off the flux.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9xHacFy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8SqFVap.jpg)
A little heavy on some of the joints, but not bad for a first time.
How did I do on my first soldering job? Sorry about the mess; I don't have 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean off the flux.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9xHacFy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8SqFVap.jpg)
A little heavy on some of the joints, but not bad for a first time.
I just soldered my first board and that was the impression I had of how they should look. Can someone post a picture of how the joints should look? Thanks
How did I do on my first soldering job? Sorry about the mess; I don't have 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean off the flux.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/9xHacFy.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8SqFVap.jpg)
A little heavy on some of the joints, but not bad for a first time.
I just soldered my first board and that was the impression I had of how they should look. Can someone post a picture of how the joints should look? Thanks
I had the same impression when I started.
Take a look at some of photoelectric's soldering
https://secure.flickr.com/photos/photoelectric_effect/12596084714/in/set-72157640117516876 (https://secure.flickr.com/photos/photoelectric_effect/12596084714/in/set-72157640117516876)
https://secure.flickr.com/photos/photoelectric_effect/13943665963/in/photostream/
I have soldered and desoldered my matte black gh60 rev.a pcb tons already and managed to clean it up just fine with just q tips and 99% iso.
use thinner solder - if your joints are bulging and full of too much solder, use thinner solder.
I use 2 thicknesses of solder - thin for soldering, thick for desoldering.
Thick is great for flooding an area, thin is great for making a joint. Another thing I do, I tend to use a beveled tip for everything now, and generally speaking I load up the tip with solder and keep loading that, then I let it flow into the hole, sometimes I do a quick rotation round the hole to get it all hot and the solder nice. Bah i'm rubbish at explaining but I know what I mean :)
I love bevelled tips, can drag solder with them, load the tip with solder, grab solder off joints with them. I used to be all about the chisel tip.
To answer the questions about desoldering stations above: I have a kind of love hate relationship with mine. I certainly don't think I would do without it since having one, but it costs an awful lot of time and money to keep it operational. Everytime I use it, there is lengthy stripping and cleaning that has to happen afterwards (well, I guess you couldn't but then it might be even more expensive to replace!) and the tips don't have too long a life. some tips I only get 200 goes out of before they start to disintergrate - but as the tips perish I just add more and more solder as a heat bridge, once everything there is hot and melty it sucks it all up. And tips are expensive in the region of £6 each, and yeah, I buy some every month at the moment.
Does it matter if the leads to the controller come from the top or bottom of the columns?
e.g. opposite of,Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mF6CAbk.jpg)
use thinner solder - if your joints are bulging and full of too much solder, use thinner solder.
I use 2 thicknesses of solder - thin for soldering, thick for desoldering.
Thick is great for flooding an area, thin is great for making a joint. Another thing I do, I tend to use a beveled tip for everything now, and generally speaking I load up the tip with solder and keep loading that, then I let it flow into the hole, sometimes I do a quick rotation round the hole to get it all hot and the solder nice. Bah i'm rubbish at explaining but I know what I mean :)
I love bevelled tips, can drag solder with them, load the tip with solder, grab solder off joints with them. I used to be all about the chisel tip.
To answer the questions about desoldering stations above: I have a kind of love hate relationship with mine. I certainly don't think I would do without it since having one, but it costs an awful lot of time and money to keep it operational. Everytime I use it, there is lengthy stripping and cleaning that has to happen afterwards (well, I guess you couldn't but then it might be even more expensive to replace!) and the tips don't have too long a life. some tips I only get 200 goes out of before they start to disintergrate - but as the tips perish I just add more and more solder as a heat bridge, once everything there is hot and melty it sucks it all up. And tips are expensive in the region of £6 each, and yeah, I buy some every month at the moment.
Would it help you to buy from Taobao? 6 pounds seem way too much. About 4-5 times as much as prices I've seen on TB IIRC. I wouldn't be saying this if your tips were lasting, but 200 seems ridiculously poor. An amateur like me in a humid place with cheap tips can do better than that so I am wondering if you have the wrong supplier or if I am missing something. I'm still using the same 3 tips (Brassoed and sanded after running into oxidation) after working on several thousand joints. But since I don't live in Europe (ie am not using lead free) that may be the reason for my relative ease.
Just wanted to mention here that I recently switches from my trusty Hakko FX-888D to a Hakko FP-101. For the hobbyist, the 888 is a great station, and more than you'll probably ever need. But for someone who does a bit more soldering, the (obsolete) FP-101, or its replacement the FX-951, is a nice upgrade. Yes, it retails for $262, but you can definitely tell it's money well spent.
He's talking about tips for a desoldering station, not a soldering iron. They're expensive and have a terrible lifespan.
Just wanted to mention here that I recently switches from my trusty Hakko FX-888D to a Hakko FP-101. For the hobbyist, the 888 is a great station, and more than you'll probably ever need. But for someone who does a bit more soldering, the (obsolete) FP-101, or its replacement the FX-951, is a nice upgrade. Yes, it retails for $262, but you can definitely tell it's money well spent.the 888 series really really shows the cost cutting hakko put into it. any of the midgrade stations or assembly line classics (weller wes51d, hakko 936 (NOT AOYUE OR OTHER CHINESE CLONE) and edsyn 951 series) are much much sturdier, safer and just better stations to use.
Just wanted to mention here that I recently switches from my trusty Hakko FX-888D to a Hakko FP-101. For the hobbyist, the 888 is a great station, and more than you'll probably ever need. But for someone who does a bit more soldering, the (obsolete) FP-101, or its replacement the FX-951, is a nice upgrade. Yes, it retails for $262, but you can definitely tell it's money well spent.
Just wanted to mention here that I recently switches from my trusty Hakko FX-888D to a Hakko FP-101. For the hobbyist, the 888 is a great station, and more than you'll probably ever need. But for someone who does a bit more soldering, the (obsolete) FP-101, or its replacement the FX-951, is a nice upgrade. Yes, it retails for $262, but you can definitely tell it's money well spent.
Does that one have the quick change tips with different colors for different sizes?
And the more comfortable handle design.
I've enjoyed my edsyn 951sxe so far, using it alongside the hakko 808.
Just wanted to mention here that I recently switches from my trusty Hakko FX-888D to a Hakko FP-101. For the hobbyist, the 888 is a great station, and more than you'll probably ever need. But for someone who does a bit more soldering, the (obsolete) FP-101, or its replacement the FX-951, is a nice upgrade. Yes, it retails for $262, but you can definitely tell it's money well spent.For that price you can (alternatively) upgrade again to metcal PS900 (http://www.amazon.com/Metcal-Soldering-Station-PS-900/dp/B00170WOXS) with smartheat. This is the newest version of my "daily" station and it's amazing. It is 90W (60W to the iron) so it responds extremely quickly to temperature / thermal load changes. This means it heats up in about 8 seconds. I can change tips in about a second (maybe 2 if I miss the heater first try :P )
He's talking about tips for a desoldering station, not a soldering iron. They're expensive and have a terrible lifespan.
Do you mind enlightening me about soldering stations? I am quite the noob. You see, I am starting to do more soldering and actually just ordered a low end set of soldering tweezers which at $49 shipped are nothing compared with what a pro might use but which of course cost a fortune considering all my 3 soldering irons together don’t cost so much. Of course I was also starting to cast my eyes on the stations since you pros talk so much about them.
Why would a pro want to use something that costs so much more to maintain? Is it because of the lead free solder? I spend 3 seconds on each solder joint so if a pro can spend 1 second per joint I can see the reason for buying expensive tips. But remember, I am always using leaded.
Why would a pro want to use something that costs so much more to maintain? Is it because of the lead free solder? I spend 3 seconds on each solder joint so if a pro can spend 1 second per joint I can see the reason for buying expensive tips. But remember, I am always using leaded.
Why would a pro want to use something that costs so much more to maintain? Is it because of the lead free solder? I spend 3 seconds on each solder joint so if a pro can spend 1 second per joint I can see the reason for buying expensive tips. But remember, I am always using leaded.
it's DEsoldering station - it is a unit with a bellow pump in it and then there is a gun shaped hand held - it has a massive tip on the end that has a hole in it, different tips have different sized holes - you use some solder and stick the tip over a through-hole solder joint, heat it through and suck the solder out. The problem is this is not good for the tips, they get gauged and bashed frequently by component legs, you can't tin the end at all really because of the shape, and after a while the tip between the hole and the outside of the tip starts to disintergrate - the more the hole loses it's integrity right at the end the worse your thermal interface becomes, and then you have to add more and more solder as a heat bridge or you start to mess up pcbs or just have crap desoldering abilities. It's worth it - becuase when really concentrating you can desolder a full 105 board in about 15 - 20 minutes.
It is difficult for me to explain but search swipe technique for smd on YouTube.
Soldering stations: Well it really depends. See, you can solder with just a cheap iron. A big expensive station makes it easier. I like temperature-sensing stations (like PACE sensatemp and OKI / Metcal smartheat). They sense the thermal load on the tip and respond accordingly. Since it's backed by 60 W - 130 W it responds really quick. This means it heats up in less than 10 seconds and also melts joints quickly (even if they are on ground plane.) But the best part about it, is also the part that makes them ideal for line soldering is that they heat up pretty much any joint in exactly the same amount of time. This means you know when the joint will melt before it does and can keep heat off it for longer. This is the part that makes it a lot easier for me, and why I recommend such systems, especially over a temperature adjustable one. Good stations usually have a lot more and better tips available. Good tips can also last a lot longer. My cheapie iron tip lasted like a year of minimal use. My "good" metcal tips have lasted several years of good use, and the temperature shock of thousands of desoldered joints. It has some oxidation away from the tinned-area, but the tinned area is thick and bright and as shiny as they day I got it.
hakko | weller | metcal | edsyn | pace | jbc | description |
B (http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_b.html) | conical | conical | conical | conical | - | standard cone |
C/BC (http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_bc_c.html) | spade | bevel | angle face | bevel | - | beveled cone |
D (http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_d.html) | chisel | chisel | spade | chisel | - | screw driver |
CM/BCM (http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_bcm_cm.html) | gull wing | hoof | mini-flow | mini-wave | mini spoon | beveled with hollow, dimple or cup |
I had something a little strange happen while soldering yesterday. There were 2 pins, out of 24 total on an IC, that I just couldn't get - the solder would find its way to, and then stick to, the tip of the soldering iron. The other 22 went fine.
I made sure I was giving it enough heat, and tried adding flux, but neither did the trick.
There's a lot of flux gunk there (and there already was before I added more) so I'm going to pick up some 99% isopropyl alcohol and try cleaning the area with that.
Any suggestions for what else I should try?
I had something a little strange happen while soldering yesterday. There were 2 pins, out of 24 total on an IC, that I just couldn't get - the solder would find its way to, and then stick to, the tip of the soldering iron. The other 22 went fine.
I made sure I was giving it enough heat, and tried adding flux, but neither did the trick.
There's a lot of flux gunk there (and there already was before I added more) so I'm going to pick up some 99% isopropyl alcohol and try cleaning the area with that.
Any suggestions for what else I should try?
Could they be corrosion? If it is the case, you can use sand paper or a mini hand file to clean the rusty away.
There could also be some kind of chemical substances that prevent the flux flow into those position. So that you can use 99% isopropyl alcohol that you are going to have to clean.
Make sure your tip is shiny, too.
you're looking for hook-up wire. for small orders, jameco, parts express, and actually ebay are all good choices. 22ga is a standard size for low current electronics applications. 18ga is for power applications, and 14+ga is for very very high power (> 5A through a single wire) applications
for ribbon cables, you need to buy ribbon replacements and crimp on the connectors. you want the same size that you took out, usually each wire in the ribbon is 22ga and the connectors are referred to as IDC-X for x pins. it's specifically ribbon cable you want though. hookup wire is individual wires, either made of stranded copper or solid, depending on how flexible you want the wire to be.
for ribbon cables, you need to buy ribbon replacements and crimp on the connectors. you want the same size that you took out, usually each wire in the ribbon is 22ga and the connectors are referred to as IDC-X for x pins. it's specifically ribbon cable you want though. hookup wire is individual wires, either made of stranded copper or solid, depending on how flexible you want the wire to be.
But, that said, ribbon cable is really just a bunch of wires glued/melted together, so you *could* accomplish the same thing with a bunch of wires next to eachother, which I believe is what he has in mind.
for ribbon cables, you need to buy ribbon replacements and crimp on the connectors. you want the same size that you took out, usually each wire in the ribbon is 22ga and the connectors are referred to as IDC-X for x pins. it's specifically ribbon cable you want though. hookup wire is individual wires, either made of stranded copper or solid, depending on how flexible you want the wire to be.
But, that said, ribbon cable is really just a bunch of wires glued/melted together, so you *could* accomplish the same thing with a bunch of wires next to eachother, which I believe is what he has in mind.
Well, xwhatsit replaced his ribbon cable on this Model F with individual wires, and seemed to work fine. I liked the look and flexibility of that rather than the cumbersome ribbon cable, which really *crimps* my style.
If your PCB has round holes for switch pins then it will be very easy. The pins are rectangular and to fit round holes the holes must be big. The difference in the cross section area between pin and the hole makes it easy to desolder.
Guys how difficult is un-soldering Cherry MX plate mounted switches from board? I would be using pen soldering iron and standalone desoldering pump. Does it goes easy or it sucks balls?
thanks.
Guys how difficult is un-soldering Cherry MX plate mounted switches from board? I would be using pen soldering iron and standalone desoldering pump. Does it goes easy or it sucks balls?
thanks.
That depends solely on your pump. Clones work way worse than real soldapullts.
Also, where are you located?
Guys how difficult is un-soldering Cherry MX plate mounted switches from board? I would be using pen soldering iron and standalone desoldering pump. Does it goes easy or it sucks balls?
thanks.
That depends solely on your pump. Clones work way worse than real soldapullts.
Also, where are you located?
Its in my profile. I don't have a pump yet. Was looking at buying something like thisShow Image(http://images.ges.cz/images/pictures/v/vtd1.jpg)
Any tips on cleaning solder flux? I'm using the kester solder from geekhackers. Water should be just fine right? What about non kester solder? I'll need isopropyl?
Also, is this solder station alright?
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/1/aoyue_469/234aef7a355be6bcbb0292b9609e3f66
Any tips on cleaning solder flux? I'm using the kester solder from geekhackers. Water should be just fine right? What about non kester solder? I'll need isopropyl?
Also, is this solder station alright?
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/1/aoyue_469/234aef7a355be6bcbb0292b9609e3f66
Normally, for any rosin core solder, you may need isopropyl to clean flux residue. Don't use water because it is slow in evaporation which is not good for metal contact. Water is also has very low viscosity and it may leak into your switch and lead to future problem like corrosion.
Regarding the Aoyue 469 station, it is a 70w soldering station. It could be good enough for soldering keyboard. However, you may want to buy a more reliable one from Edsyn or Hakko.
The aoyue station is a good deal. So 70w is the optimum wattage for soldering keyboard switches, diodes and even resistors?
Also, isopropyl. I'll have to dab some isopropyl into a cloth and wipe it right? Or do I have to pour an amount to the board and wipe it off
Any tips on cleaning solder flux? I'm using the kester solder from geekhackers. Water should be just fine right? What about non kester solder? I'll need isopropyl?
Also, is this solder station alright?
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/1/aoyue_469/234aef7a355be6bcbb0292b9609e3f66
Normally, for any rosin core solder, you may need isopropyl to clean flux residue. Don't use water because it is slow in evaporation which is not good for metal contact. Water is also has very low viscosity and it may leak into your switch and lead to future problem like corrosion.
Regarding the Aoyue 469 station, it is a 70w soldering station. It could be good enough for soldering keyboard. However, you may want to buy a more reliable one from Edsyn or Hakko.
The aoyue station is a good deal. So 70w is the optimum wattage for soldering keyboard switches, diodes and even resistors?
Also, isopropyl. I'll have to dab some isopropyl into a cloth and wipe it right? Or do I have to pour an amount to the board and wipe it off
Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function.
What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?
Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function.
What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?
I bought an "ESDProduct Rubber Mat" and have been happy with it, but I'll admit that it's probably overkill.
This is the one I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WUI5SS/
Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function.
What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?
70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.
70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.
Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?
Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function.
What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?
70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.
Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?
Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.
70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.
Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?
Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.
Just going to elaborate on this. With unleaded solder and leaded solder that has more than 63%lead it is actually possible to melt the solder but not get it hot enough to bond with anything. I forget what the term for that is right now but 63/27 bind as soon as it melts.
Plus when using leaded solder it melts at a significantly lower temp which results is less chance of damage to the board with a properly set iron.
70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.
Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?
Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.
Just going to elaborate on this. With unleaded solder and leaded solder that has more than 63%lead it is actually possible to melt the solder but not get it hot enough to bond with anything. I forget what the term for that is right now but 63/27 bind as soon as it melts.
Plus when using leaded solder it melts at a significantly lower temp which results is less chance of damage to the board with a properly set iron.
Thanks for the answers guys. Glad I get a spool of leaded solder from Geekhackers.org. I use a normal solder when I assemble my sprit 60% and I do agree it needs higher temp to melt and I have damage some joints when I try to desolder some of the switch.
Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function.
What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?
Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function.
What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?
70w is ample load, especially for leaded solder. 30 - 35w is all that is needed for leaded solder.
Just curious, what's the advantage of leaded solder?
Lower melting point, more consistent I think, and easier to desolder.
Just going to elaborate on this. With unleaded solder and leaded solder that has more than 63%lead it is actually possible to melt the solder but not get it hot enough to bond with anything. I forget what the term for that is right now but 63/27 bind as soon as it melts.
Plus when using leaded solder it melts at a significantly lower temp which results is less chance of damage to the board with a properly set iron.
Here's a new problem.
While desoldering recently I caused some solder to bubble and pop. Solder flew out. I didn't notice it at that time but later realized that some solder had landed on my daily driver keyboard sitting about 80cm away from where I was desoldering. Now how do I remove that little splash of solder without damaging my custom paint job?
Is there somewhere I can buy a separate temperature control unit for an iron without one?
maybe just something to directly control power output, then I could gauge temperature myself?Is there somewhere I can buy a separate temperature control unit for an iron without one?
I don't think that's possible as the temperature sensor is in the iron itself.
I did some searching on the forum, but didn't quite find any extra info, so thought this would be a good spot to ask.
I've seen the 'Hard-Wiring How-To', but was hoping to find more information/explanation on hard-wiring. Do you know of any other posts/sites/etc. that go deeper into explaining hard-wiring? New to soldering and keyboard creation, so just wanting a bit more in-depth info if it's available.
Thanks in advance for any info!
Here is one of the first guides
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=20898.0
some new tips:
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/brownfox-step-by-step-t6050.html
For the matrix circuit, I like this page
http://www.dribin.org/dave/keyboard/one_html/
The concept of hardwiring is simple: you create a keyboard matrix by wiring some contacts together and attach that to a controller, for example a Teensy. The controller then reads the matrix, recognizes which key was pressed and sends that to the computer.
If you want to know how a keyboard matrix works, I would recommend you this article by komar007: http://blog.komar.be/how-to-make-a-keyboard-the-matrix/
Hey, I'm sure that this topic has been covered somewhere on this forum, but I could not find not on the search function.http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbon-fiber-fabric/=tu7tt6
What do you guys use for a soldering mat to protect your table?
Or a baking mat? I think WFD uses this in his youtube vids - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LUYK1I/ref=s9_simh_se_p79_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=search-desktop-advertising-no-results-center-1&pf_rd_r=0W9GMPTRKJF1R7QTKB2A&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_p=1912906122&pf_rd_i=SAINTOGRAPH%20cutting%20mat (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LUYK1I/ref=s9_simh_se_p79_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=search-desktop-advertising-no-results-center-1&pf_rd_r=0W9GMPTRKJF1R7QTKB2A&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_p=1912906122&pf_rd_i=SAINTOGRAPH%20cutting%20mat)
silicone melts at 200c
i'm obviously biased here, but to present a factual point, a temperature controlled iron used with 63/37 kester 44 gets set to 350C and never moves from that temperature.
also, my 80$ kit comes with a stand (edsyn IP491).
but, as levar burton once said, you don't have to take my word for it. *cue reading rainbow outro*
Sorry if this was asked so many times, but on what temp should i keep my soldering iron to solder/desolder switches and led? It's really tight.
Sorry if this was asked so many times, but on what temp should i keep my soldering iron to solder/desolder switches and led?
It depends on which solder you're using but I believe 350C for Kester 44 is the norm?
I'm trying to desolder some leds and remove them. I feel like I'm getting all the solder without a problem but I can't pull the led out...am I missing something?Even a very small amount of solder can cause them to stick. Normally when I desolder LEDs they fall out on their own.
something isn't right, I don't want to damage the pcb...I've touched the iron onto the lead in every angle and soldapulted multiple times...these don't want to come out... :mad:
something isn't right, I don't want to damage the pcb...I've touched the iron onto the lead in every angle and soldapulted multiple times...these don't want to come out... :mad:
It seems that the OP is not up to date , what would be the budget soldering station nowadays ? 50-100$
This is an effective way for desolder ;DShow Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=42824.0;attach=47360;image)Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=42824.0;attach=47362;image)
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg1151365#msg1151365 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg1151365#msg1151365)
Just curious if anyone has any opinions on using solder paste for SMDs. I have some pretty small (0806 package) resistors I need to solder
on a board and using solder paste has worked well for me in the past. just put the paste on the pad, plop the component down and place the
iron near the past until it heats up and makes the connection. This way, if more solder needs to be added the component is already nicely in
place and stuck to the PCB.
it's for switch i dont think for smd it's very small & risk :))This is an effective way for desolder ;DShow Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=42824.0;attach=47360;image)Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=42824.0;attach=47362;image)
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg1151365#msg1151365 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.msg1151365#msg1151365)
I count three hands to take this picture???!!! :))
Just curious if anyone has any opinions on using solder paste for SMDs. I have some pretty small (0806 package) resistors I need to solder
on a board and using solder paste has worked well for me in the past. just put the paste on the pad, plop the component down and place the
iron near the past until it heats up and makes the connection. This way, if more solder needs to be added the component is already nicely in
place and stuck to the PCB.
I use solder paste a lot - it's the fastest way to solder loads of smd. Just cover all the pads in blobs of paste, drop on all the passives - then I use how air and just blast it all until it's all melted and made nice joints.
Just curious if anyone has any opinions on using solder paste for SMDs. I have some pretty small (0806 package) resistors I need to solder
on a board and using solder paste has worked well for me in the past. just put the paste on the pad, plop the component down and place the
iron near the past until it heats up and makes the connection. This way, if more solder needs to be added the component is already nicely in
place and stuck to the PCB.
I use solder paste a lot - it's the fastest way to solder loads of smd. Just cover all the pads in blobs of paste, drop on all the passives - then I use how air and just blast it all until it's all melted and made nice joints.
How hot are we talking about ? Would an hair dryer works ?
update: I found a much easier way of de-soldering the remaining leds. Just heat up one of the leads on the led and pull that side of the led out with pliers, then do the other side. (have someone hold the keyboard or use a vise) then soldapult the remaining solder out of the holes when done.Yeah i agree this with you. Or if anyone know the best way to desoldering led, pls share :)
Didn't even bother with the soldapult at the start, just heat and pull, then soldapult the leftover solder out the holes once the led is out. My soldapult isn't getting all the solder out of those small holes, it works fine on larger leads.
update: I found a much easier way of de-soldering the remaining leds. Just heat up one of the leads on the led and pull that side of the led out with pliers, then do the other side. (have someone hold the keyboard or use a vise) then soldapult the remaining solder out of the holes when done.Yeah i agree this with you. Or if anyone know the best way to desoldering led, pls share :)
Didn't even bother with the soldapult at the start, just heat and pull, then soldapult the leftover solder out the holes once the led is out. My soldapult isn't getting all the solder out of those small holes, it works fine on larger leads.
update: I found a much easier way of de-soldering the remaining leds. Just heat up one of the leads on the led and pull that side of the led out with pliers, then do the other side. (have someone hold the keyboard or use a vise) then soldapult the remaining solder out of the holes when done.Yeah i agree this with you. Or if anyone know the best way to desoldering led, pls share :)
Didn't even bother with the soldapult at the start, just heat and pull, then soldapult the leftover solder out the holes once the led is out. My soldapult isn't getting all the solder out of those small holes, it works fine on larger leads.
speaking of the 808, apparently hakko just revised it into the fr-300
tequipment really likes it: http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko-808-vs-FR-300-Desoldering-Tool/
it has some minor but oft-requested features: power button, more compact, easer tip changing, and less vibration.
i'm a little worried about the increase in suction in its potential tendency to lift pads, but looks interesting regardless. if anyone picks one up, please review it here!
I might pick one up sometime in the near future.
speaking of the 808, apparently hakko just revised it into the fr-300
tequipment really likes it: http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko-808-vs-FR-300-Desoldering-Tool/
it has some minor but oft-requested features: power button, more compact, easer tip changing, and less vibration.
i'm a little worried about the increase in suction in its potential tendency to lift pads, but looks interesting regardless. if anyone picks one up, please review it here!
I might pick one up sometime in the near future.
Did you ever end up getting one of these? I did, and was curious if anyone else picked one up.
First impressions after using it to desolder ~20 switches last night: works like a dream - just as easy to use as the 808, but it's lighter, easier to hold, has better temp control, and I love the dedicated power button. We'll see how it holds up to some abuse, but the initial design is really great.
speaking of the 808, apparently hakko just revised it into the fr-300
tequipment really likes it: http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko-808-vs-FR-300-Desoldering-Tool/
it has some minor but oft-requested features: power button, more compact, easer tip changing, and less vibration.
i'm a little worried about the increase in suction in its potential tendency to lift pads, but looks interesting regardless. if anyone picks one up, please review it here!
I might pick one up sometime in the near future.
Did you ever end up getting one of these? I did, and was curious if anyone else picked one up.
First impressions after using it to desolder ~20 switches last night: works like a dream - just as easy to use as the 808, but it's lighter, easier to hold, has better temp control, and I love the dedicated power button. We'll see how it holds up to some abuse, but the initial design is really great.
What do you use for a stand?
Ok thanks your sharing :thumb:update: I found a much easier way of de-soldering the remaining leds. Just heat up one of the leads on the led and pull that side of the led out with pliers, then do the other side. (have someone hold the keyboard or use a vise) then soldapult the remaining solder out of the holes when done.Yeah i agree this with you. Or if anyone know the best way to desoldering led, pls share :)
Didn't even bother with the soldapult at the start, just heat and pull, then soldapult the leftover solder out the holes once the led is out. My soldapult isn't getting all the solder out of those small holes, it works fine on larger leads.
Buy cheapo soldering tweezers.
Buy a vice to hold your keyboard perpendicularly.
Touch both led leads at the same time with the tweezers.
Pull out led.
For putting in LEDs, just do the reverse. It is a bit harder to execute, and you have to examine all joints carefully to make sure the solder flowed properly.
@Tiramisu
I recently got a Xytronic LF-853D Station. Solder, Desolder, Hot Air.
I have just done about 500 solder points with it, so no long term experience, but some first impressions.
The hot air unit did a great job soldering the diodes on the ergodox I`m typing on right now.
Heats up quick an has a high air flow (if you want to, I prefer less volume). Air flow and temperature are good to adjust.
The desoldering iron does a real good job, but you have to clean it about every 50 times you desoldered a part. But that`s no big deal...turning a part about 90 degrees, pull out a little glass container, clean it....up you go.
After long use (about 20min) the grip get rather warm, but nothing critical.
The soldering iron has a nice size, compared to my older Weller Station it`s a bit thinner. You get all sorts of tips for it, ranging from 0.8mm round tip to 3,2mm flat. That`s the biggest one I got, maybe there is more available.
Solder an Desolder irons heat up pretty quick (I can measure it if someone is interested).
I`m pretty happy with, in the next days there`s another clock project to solder...another ~250 soldering points. Another chance to test this big boy. :cool:
If you're doing anything more, get the newest version of the hakko desoldering gun, FR-300. Reviews are solid and I like how it works and feels to use.
I'm considering getting this for my first soldering iron. Has anyone had any experience with it to know if it's a decent product?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPUENI/ref=pd_luc_sbs_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPUENI/ref=pd_luc_sbs_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I would be getting it for learning purposes, and to do some switch, and maybe led removal/swapping.
I'm considering getting this for my first soldering iron. Has anyone had any experience with it to know if it's a decent product?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPUENI/ref=pd_luc_sbs_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPUENI/ref=pd_luc_sbs_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I would be getting it for learning purposes, and to do some switch, and maybe led removal/swapping.
I don't have any experience with the dash stuff either, but the quick glance I did at reviews looks solid.
What a normal Soldapullt should look like: 4:30 - 4:35the third one isn't necessary. the first one is definitely necessary. however, what's making the gasket stick is actually the condensed and solidified flux and not the solder. solder in a soldapullt turns into either big slugs or little flakes. however, some part of the flux fumes will actually recondense into flux, and when it does, it will be nasty hard flux without much moisture. hence, the gasket will stick.More
Completely compressed when opened and unplunged. Maximum suction.
My second ever ruined Soldapullt, ruined in the same way this time as the first timeShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vYi16ck.jpg)
Outstretched when opened and unplunged. No suction.
What might have happened, as I understand it
Sometimes I'll stop doing DIY projects for 5-6 months at a time, so my Soldapullt stays tucked away, uncleaned. When picking it back up, I'll find that the thin middle "rod" part had stuck to the tip assembly when the leftover, uncleaned solder had hardened over the course of those few months. Since the spring portion moves along with that rod, it had remained outstretched that whole time. I suppose then it just loses its ability to stay as compressed as it was before.
(Also, in these two times, I've proceeded to panic when I don't see the proper suction, try to rotate to open it, see that it's just completely stuck to the tip and try to pull further, which stretches out the spring even further. I was finally able to get it open this time by prying out the tip assembly which was completely stuck to the end of the "rod", but sadly, it was already unusable by this point.)
Possible takeaways for when I get my next
- Keep the Soldapullt clean
- Don't take too long between uses
- (?) Keep the barrel separated from the rear assembly when storing
fun fact: you can also kill a hakko 808 by filling the plunger full of flux and solder. ask tjcaustin how i know :p
Looked at a few reviews. $600 is a more than I want to spend. I can see pulling apart and putting together a couple of keyboards 4 or 5 times over the winter figuring out what I like best but after that the tools may sit in a box or go for sale on kijiji in the spring.
fun fact: you can also kill a hakko 808 by filling the plunger full of flux and solder. ask tjcaustin how i know :p
You can also ask Lastpilot about killing 808s. :P :-X :-X
Which of these two would you guys recommend?
This: http://sra-solder.com/aoyue-968a-4-in-1-digital-hot-air-rework-and-soldering-station/
or
This: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414526508&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+888
Also re-working the suggestions would be appreciated I'm sure!
Which of these two would you guys recommend?
This: http://sra-solder.com/aoyue-968a-4-in-1-digital-hot-air-rework-and-soldering-station/
or
This: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414526508&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+888
Also re-working the suggestions would be appreciated I'm sure!
Go hakko. The only reason I want hot air is I want to get into offering more SMD soldering services for my business, or I'd never touch it. And I wouldn't touch it at that price.
Which of these two would you guys recommend?
This: http://sra-solder.com/aoyue-968a-4-in-1-digital-hot-air-rework-and-soldering-station/
or
This: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414526508&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+888
Also re-working the suggestions would be appreciated I'm sure!
Go hakko. The only reason I want hot air is I want to get into offering more SMD soldering services for my business, or I'd never touch it. And I wouldn't touch it at that price.
Quick question what is SMD? Is hot air required for it? Also LED's are no problem with a regular soldering iron like the Hakko fx888 right?
Which of these two would you guys recommend?
This: http://sra-solder.com/aoyue-968a-4-in-1-digital-hot-air-rework-and-soldering-station/
or
This: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414526508&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+888
Also re-working the suggestions would be appreciated I'm sure!
Go hakko. The only reason I want hot air is I want to get into offering more SMD soldering services for my business, or I'd never touch it. And I wouldn't touch it at that price.
Quick question what is SMD? Is hot air required for it? Also LED's are no problem with a regular soldering iron like the Hakko fx888 right?
Which of these two would you guys recommend?
This: http://sra-solder.com/aoyue-968a-4-in-1-digital-hot-air-rework-and-soldering-station/
or
This: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414526508&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+888
Also re-working the suggestions would be appreciated I'm sure!
Go hakko. The only reason I want hot air is I want to get into offering more SMD soldering services for my business, or I'd never touch it. And I wouldn't touch it at that price.
Quick question what is SMD? Is hot air required for it? Also LED's are no problem with a regular soldering iron like the Hakko fx888 right?
Which of these two would you guys recommend?
This: http://sra-solder.com/aoyue-968a-4-in-1-digital-hot-air-rework-and-soldering-station/
or
This: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414526508&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+888
Also re-working the suggestions would be appreciated I'm sure!
Go hakko. The only reason I want hot air is I want to get into offering more SMD soldering services for my business, or I'd never touch it. And I wouldn't touch it at that price.
Quick question what is SMD? Is hot air required for it? Also LED's are no problem with a regular soldering iron like the Hakko fx888 right?
my view on this is that chinese soldering gear is _dangerously_ low quality, and the more parts that are involved, the more dangerous these stations get. the most basic point to make here is that you're buying a tool that gets REALLY EFFING HOT. i have a point on my left pinky that has ZERO radial fingerprint because at some point when I was screwing around with something incredibly hot, i burned it off. for perspective, i sell soldering gear, and i cover my workstation with carbon fiber textile and insulation so that i don't light my lab on fire when i inevitably drop something incredibly hot.
if you were vaporizing organic solvents in a chemistry lab, would you buy the cheapest fume hood that you could find? no.
so why cut corners on a tool that can get hot enough to melt most tin and nickel alloys? money is an ephemeral, tradable thing. your life and health, unfortunately are not.
my view on this is that chinese soldering gear is _dangerously_ low quality, and the more parts that are involved, the more dangerous these stations get. the most basic point to make here is that you're buying a tool that gets REALLY EFFING HOT. i have a point on my left pinky that has ZERO radial fingerprint because at some point when I was screwing around with something incredibly hot, i burned it off. for perspective, i sell soldering gear, and i cover my workstation with carbon fiber textile and insulation so that i don't light my lab on fire when i inevitably drop something incredibly hot.
if you were vaporizing organic solvents in a chemistry lab, would you buy the cheapest fume hood that you could find? no.
so why cut corners on a tool that can get hot enough to melt most tin and nickel alloys? money is an ephemeral, tradable thing. your life and health, unfortunately are not.
Which of these two would you guys recommend?
This: http://sra-solder.com/aoyue-968a-4-in-1-digital-hot-air-rework-and-soldering-station/
or
This: http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414526508&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+888
Also re-working the suggestions would be appreciated I'm sure!
Go hakko. The only reason I want hot air is I want to get into offering more SMD soldering services for my business, or I'd never touch it. And I wouldn't touch it at that price.
Quick question what is SMD? Is hot air required for it? Also LED's are no problem with a regular soldering iron like the Hakko fx888 right?
As others have said, definitely not required. I have soldered two boards with all smd resistors and diodes and I did fine with my fx888. I have to admit that I learned a lot in the process. In my build log (specifically the 75% board) I have some tips/tricks for doing smd with a standard iron. Probably pretty useless for people who have done it before, but as a n00b, I found these tricks pretty helpful...
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58969.msg1349714#msg1349714
fun fact: you can also kill a hakko 808 by filling the plunger full of flux and solder. ask tjcaustin how i know :p
You can also ask Lastpilot about killing 808s. :P :-X :-X
I burnt the crap out of my foot cleaning out my 808 the last time I thought I'd killed it. *And* shocked myself putting it back together. I wish the edsyn versions were anywhere close to financially smart for me to get. Same with their hot air stations.
I always burn my hands cleaning my desoldering station. like every single time.
I always burn my hands cleaning my desoldering station. like every single time.
I'm ordering a build from you. Literally bleed for all the keyboards you build? I fux with that.
Honestly the Xytronic is, in my opinion, maybe only worth a third of what it goes for. It's all chinese generic quality parts - for example the hot air and iron combo can get for something like $50 in small quantities from the vendor. Desoldering addon is of course not worth $550. Unfortunately, all in one options from proper vendors are even more expensive if getting them retail, though the difference between them and the china generics is like night and day. While I don't think one needs hot air for generic (non-qfn/bga and such) smd soldering and occasional desoldering is perfectly fine with a pump, you do want a high quality main iron if you're spending that much money. Look on ebay for used pace stations with td-100 or metcal/oki mfr series, both being usually fairly inexpensive. Feel free to pm me for specific recommendations.
Is there a ghetto way to solder SMD Resistors ? I have no hot air station , just a 20€ solering iron .
I'm talking about those one : http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
Is there a ghetto way to solder SMD Resistors ? I have no hot air station , just a 20€ solering iron .
I'm talking about those one : http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
Honestly the Xytronic is, in my opinion, maybe only worth a third of what it goes for. It's all chinese generic quality parts - for example the hot air and iron combo can get for something like $50 in small quantities from the vendor. Desoldering addon is of course not worth $550. Unfortunately, all in one options from proper vendors are even more expensive if getting them retail, though the difference between them and the china generics is like night and day. While I don't think one needs hot air for generic (non-qfn/bga and such) smd soldering and occasional desoldering is perfectly fine with a pump, you do want a high quality main iron if you're spending that much money. Look on ebay for used pace stations with td-100 or metcal/oki mfr series, both being usually fairly inexpensive. Feel free to pm me for specific recommendations.
It might be that it`s chinese generic, but it works fine for me and doesn´t cost me 3000$ like a Weller Rework Station in our labs. :-X
I agree, for the "usual" soldering work on a keyboard only it´s a bit oversized, but I do a lot of SMD stuff and desoldering, so I just wanted a affordable rework station. And there aren´t that many available ;)
Hmm, you´re right. Those two manufacturers weren´t on my list. Never heard of them before.
And a quick research showed, they are really hard to get over here in germany.
I've never soldered before, and am looking to start practicing so I can eventually build a GON - can anyone let me know what equipment I'd need?
I'm thinking of buying the soldering kit from massdrop. Do I also need a desoldering iron on top of that? Do I need to buy alternative sized tips, since I'll be soldering SMDs as well as switches? I've heard that SMDs are a lot more narrow in comparison, and I might need a different tool for those.
My questions might be idiotic, since I haven't soldered anything since high school, but I'm excited to get back into this soldering business!
I've never soldered before, and am looking to start practicing so I can eventually build a GON - can anyone let me know what equipment I'd need?
I'm thinking of buying the soldering kit from massdrop. Do I also need a desoldering iron on top of that? Do I need to buy alternative sized tips, since I'll be soldering SMDs as well as switches? I've heard that SMDs are a lot more narrow in comparison, and I might need a different tool for those.
My questions might be idiotic, since I haven't soldered anything since high school, but I'm excited to get back into this soldering business!
I would not recommend going cheap on an iron. IMO it just is not worth it. Buy one tool that does the job well and be done with it. You also get so many other quality tools in that package that it just makes sense. I own 7 pairs of tweezers and the ones included in this kit blow them all out of the water by a mile. It is amazing what a difference a good pair of tweezers makes when soldering. I also own the Larson cutters. They are excellent and definitely a great addition to this kit.
If I was not completely setup with soldering gear at this point, I would be jumping on this. All great tools at a price pretty much anyone can swing. My $0.02...
I'm debating between two kits - the CL1481-K, seen here, http://www.edsyn.com/product/ST/CL1481-K.html, for $90, or the massdrop set, for $145. It seems like they are the same thing to me, so I'm wondering why the massdrop set costs $50 more? Is it just because the CL1481-k set doesn't include solder? I thought solder is cheap.
Thanks!
Could someone please clarify this for me? I've read in this thread that the general consensus is to set the iron temp to about 350c for Kester 44 but in Kesters KB it says to set the iron at 750F which is about 399C?
http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/ (http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/)
"What is the recommended soldering iron tip temperature?
When hand soldering with a rosin flux such as the Kester #44 or the # 285 the recommended iron tip temperature is 750°F. If you are soldering with a low residue no clean solder such as the #245or # 275 we recommend a tip temperature of 600-650°F."
Because you get way more than just the iron from the massdrop kit.I would not recommend going cheap on an iron. IMO it just is not worth it. Buy one tool that does the job well and be done with it. You also get so many other quality tools in that package that it just makes sense. I own 7 pairs of tweezers and the ones included in this kit blow them all out of the water by a mile. It is amazing what a difference a good pair of tweezers makes when soldering. I also own the Larson cutters. They are excellent and definitely a great addition to this kit.
If I was not completely setup with soldering gear at this point, I would be jumping on this. All great tools at a price pretty much anyone can swing. My $0.02...
Okay, so I'm deciding to hold out on my GON purchase for now - I am set in buying it in the near future, but I think I really should invest in a good soldering kit for now, and I'm also deciding what colored SMD LEDs to get on that acrylic case.
I'm debating between two kits - the CL1481-K, seen here, http://www.edsyn.com/product/ST/CL1481-K.html, for $90, or the massdrop set, for $145. It seems like they are the same thing to me, so I'm wondering why the massdrop set costs $50 more? Is it just because the CL1481-k set doesn't include solder? I thought solder is cheap.
Thanks!
Because you get way more than just the iron from the massdrop kit.
Included
- CL1481-K3 Edsyn Soldering Iron with Iron Holder - $90 value
- LT376 tip - I don't know, $2
- LT374 tip - I don't know, $2
- DS017LS ESD-safe soldapullt - I think around $20, can't remember
- Hand tool: KP9157 - $35
- 1 oz Kester 44 solder on spool - $5?
- Tweezer - $5?
Basically, it gives you everything you need in quality tools and you pay shipping once.
Because you get way more than just the iron from the massdrop kit.
Included
- CL1481-K3 Edsyn Soldering Iron with Iron Holder - $90 value
- LT376 tip - I don't know, $2
- LT374 tip - I don't know, $2
- DS017LS ESD-safe soldapullt - I think around $20, can't remember
- Hand tool: KP9157 - $35
- 1 oz Kester 44 solder on spool - $5?
- Tweezer - $5?
Basically, it gives you everything you need in quality tools and you pay shipping once.
If you click the link, edsyn kit comes with iron, same tips, basic soldapullt, some braid, a braid holder, and some pliers and a cutter.
MD tweezer is >$5 IIRC. Good tweezers are expensive. I have some excelta tweezers that MSRP over $100
Because you get way more than just the iron from the massdrop kit.
Included
- CL1481-K3 Edsyn Soldering Iron with Iron Holder - $90 value
- LT376 tip - I don't know, $2
- LT374 tip - I don't know, $2
- DS017LS ESD-safe soldapullt - I think around $20, can't remember
- Hand tool: KP9157 - $35
- 1 oz Kester 44 solder on spool - $5?
- Tweezer - $5?
Basically, it gives you everything you need in quality tools and you pay shipping once.
If you click the link, edsyn kit comes with iron, same tips, basic soldapullt, some braid, a braid holder, and some pliers and a cutter.
MD tweezer is >$5 IIRC. Good tweezers are expensive. I have some excelta tweezers that MSRP over $100
My bad, I did not click the link, I was going off what I had seen on the edsyn site previously.
In that case, the edsyn kit is a really good deal. You are getting both Larsen pliers and cutters (assuming, given the names) as well as the rest of what you would need. That is a pretty good deal...
Thanks dorkvader for keeping me honest. :P
I think they have almost identical components, the quality is pretty much the same, just a bit of a different package.Because you get way more than just the iron from the massdrop kit.
Included
- CL1481-K3 Edsyn Soldering Iron with Iron Holder - $90 value
- LT376 tip - I don't know, $2
- LT374 tip - I don't know, $2
- DS017LS ESD-safe soldapullt - I think around $20, can't remember
- Hand tool: KP9157 - $35
- 1 oz Kester 44 solder on spool - $5?
- Tweezer - $5?
Basically, it gives you everything you need in quality tools and you pay shipping once.
If you click the link, edsyn kit comes with iron, same tips, basic soldapullt, some braid, a braid holder, and some pliers and a cutter.
MD tweezer is >$5 IIRC. Good tweezers are expensive. I have some excelta tweezers that MSRP over $100
My bad, I did not click the link, I was going off what I had seen on the edsyn site previously.
In that case, the edsyn kit is a really good deal. You are getting both Larsen pliers and cutters (assuming, given the names) as well as the rest of what you would need. That is a pretty good deal...
Thanks dorkvader for keeping me honest. :P
is the md kit still of higher quality, and is it really worth it to shell out the extra 50 for it? if the difference is mainly the desolderer, should i just get the edsyn kit and buy a solderpullt separately?
I think they have almost identical components, the quality is pretty much the same, just a bit of a different package.Because you get way more than just the iron from the massdrop kit.
Included
- CL1481-K3 Edsyn Soldering Iron with Iron Holder - $90 value
- LT376 tip - I don't know, $2
- LT374 tip - I don't know, $2
- DS017LS ESD-safe soldapullt - I think around $20, can't remember
- Hand tool: KP9157 - $35
- 1 oz Kester 44 solder on spool - $5?
- Tweezer - $5?
Basically, it gives you everything you need in quality tools and you pay shipping once.
If you click the link, edsyn kit comes with iron, same tips, basic soldapullt, some braid, a braid holder, and some pliers and a cutter.
MD tweezer is >$5 IIRC. Good tweezers are expensive. I have some excelta tweezers that MSRP over $100
My bad, I did not click the link, I was going off what I had seen on the edsyn site previously.
In that case, the edsyn kit is a really good deal. You are getting both Larsen pliers and cutters (assuming, given the names) as well as the rest of what you would need. That is a pretty good deal...
Thanks dorkvader for keeping me honest. :p
is the md kit still of higher quality, and is it really worth it to shell out the extra 50 for it? if the difference is mainly the desolderer, should i just get the edsyn kit and buy a solderpullt separately?
so I just found out about magnet wire.
I also found out that magnet wire is available in multiple sizes!
How easy is it to tin? The wire-wrap I'm using now is tough to strip.
so I just found out about magnet wire.
I also found out that magnet wire is available in multiple sizes!
How easy is it to tin? The wire-wrap I'm using now is tough to strip.
Maybe I am thick as ****, but why would magnet wire be helpful for soldering? Also, if you are putting it near chips, are you not worried that it will scramble the chip config?
so I just found out about magnet wire.
I also found out that magnet wire is available in multiple sizes!
How easy is it to tin? The wire-wrap I'm using now is tough to strip.
Maybe I am thick as ****, but why would magnet wire be helpful for soldering? Also, if you are putting it near chips, are you not worried that it will scramble the chip config?
Magnet wire is not magnetic. It is just copper wire with a very thin enamel insulation. This is to promote the magnetic field properties from the current changes in the windings of an electric motor. Some varieties can be had that the insulation acts as a flux when soldering as well.
Edit: Just wanted to add that at the voltages and currents found in a keyboard matrix the magnetic fields generated would be negligible.
it's just the easiest way to get solid core hookup wire in whatever gauge that's not 22 or 18or 28-30 (wire wrap wire).
I have a pretty good intro to my setup in this thread http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/toaster-smd-re-flow-oven-t6861.html
....
I have a pretty good intro to my setup in this thread http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/toaster-smd-re-flow-oven-t6861.html
....
That's AWESOME - we actually run a similar set up in our R&D for trying out new stencils.
glass jacketed k-types will shrug off those temperatures. i have a crapton from omega. let me know if you want some and i'll stuff them into standard connectors (they're flying lead right now) and send them off!
I love magnet wire! makes hand wired matrix look good too as people go "ohhh isn't that going to short?" as they don't realise it's insulated :D
I will dig out the thermocouples I have at an appropriate time.. Meanwhile, yesterday I got some inspiration to finally do some planned upgrades to my toaster =) Added some more insulation, some extra mass and rigidity, removed some wires I didn't use, and the very slow thermocouple I had put in it. I also built the solid state relay with its potentiometer into a unit with a wall socket. My multimeter probes fits snugly into that black cable. Now I'll have a power index through the output voltage =D Up until a particular day in my life I was unaware of what the voltage across the potentiometer was, then I found out it is enough to tickle. Today I measured, and it is the full 224-two-holes-in-the-wall output. No more holding the potentiometer by the wires while turning it, yay for safety!yes, because a repurposed toaster that hits 400+C to reflow solder is safe as long as you can't electrocute yourself on the power switch. ahaahahaa
(Attachment Link)
i've burned and electrocuted myself more times than i can count.
i like 26-30 for magnet wire. anything smaller than that and you're fine with standard PU insulated stranded wire. embarassingly, i cannot deal with 28ga stranded PU insulated wire. is it really stranded if there are like 10 strands? i mean, c'mon! you want the guy with the 200$* wire stripper to strip PU off of 10 strands of #40 copper wire? CMONI love magnet wire! makes hand wired matrix look good too as people go "ohhh isn't that going to short?" as they don't realise it's insulated :D
What gauge magnet wire do you use? 20? 22? 24? right ballpark?
I have to admit I was expecting you to say closer to 22-24. Interesting. Thx...i like 26-30 for magnet wire. anything smaller than that and you're fine with standard PU insulated stranded wire. embarassingly, i cannot deal with 28ga stranded PU insulated wire. is it really stranded if there are like 10 strands? i mean, c'mon! you want the guy with the 200$* wire stripper to strip PU off of 10 strands of #40 copper wire? CMONI love magnet wire! makes hand wired matrix look good too as people go "ohhh isn't that going to short?" as they don't realise it's insulated :D
What gauge magnet wire do you use? 20? 22? 24? right ballpark?
*it was like 80, and it comes highly recommended: http://www.newark.com/weidmuller/stripax-0-8-10mm/wire-stripper-0-8-6mm/dp/24M7939?MER=PPSO_N_C_EverywhereElse_None
really, there is no better wire stripper design than the stripax. it's so good that literally every tool company has a licensed or blatant copy.
22 UL should be child's play for you. if it's not, something's up with your tooling :eek:For sure it would be super easy to work with. Is there a benefit to going smaller that I am just missing? I found 24 to be nice to work with. 26 multi strand was only annoying because of the multi strand aspect, as single strand it would be fine.
for low current signaling, the only reason we work with large gauge (< 28ga) wire is because working with tiny stranded wire is a huge pita, and 28ga solid core UL is kind of the worst of both worlds. it's not very flexible, because it's solid core, and actual OD is much larger than 28ga because of the insulation. it's also a huge pain to strip. even with a fairly high-end tool, you're going to nick a whole bunch of wire, and at the 28-30ga wire diameter, a nick is a big deal.Cool. Thx for the info. I will pick up some magnet wire.
so you might as well just get magnet wire and melt the insulation off.
i actually just got some samples of some products that might make working with 28-30ga hookup a heck of a lot easier, and hence make multi-board direct wiring a heck of a lot easier, but i'm still staring at them at the moment. we'll see.
Hiya, just wondering if I this solder is fine for usage ?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/703-459-Lead-free-solder-0-6mm/dp/B000L97ZZ8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1418775258&sr=8-9&keywords=solder
I'm just gonna use it for a tkl sized board. Previously I got some kester 44 from a member here but I don't think it's sufficient for a whole tkl board.
If there's any other alternative which are priced reasonably, I wouldn't mind looking into it.
Thanks !
Hiya, just wondering if I this solder is fine for usage ?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/703-459-Lead-free-solder-0-6mm/dp/B000L97ZZ8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1418775258&sr=8-9&keywords=solder
I'm just gonna use it for a tkl sized board. Previously I got some kester 44 from a member here but I don't think it's sufficient for a whole tkl board.
If there's any other alternative which are priced reasonably, I wouldn't mind looking into it.
Thanks !
If you can try and stay away from lead free. It is more difficult to work with, requires a hotter iron, and as a result makes it much easier to lift pads when doing rework.
You will want 63/27 for the ratio. There is some stuff going on at the melting temp that I don't remember specifics from but at certain ratios the solder will melt then you have to get it hotter in order for it to stick. With 63/27 as soon as it melts, it sticks.
You will want 63/27 for the ratio. There is some stuff going on at the melting temp that I don't remember specifics from but at certain ratios the solder will melt then you have to get it hotter in order for it to stick. With 63/27 as soon as it melts, it sticks.
I can't find any 63/27 but there's this 63/37 one.
What bout this one ? :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/63-37-Tin-Solder-Welding-Iron-Wire-Lead-0-8mm-2-Rosin-Core-Flux-Reel-100G-UK-/400727408334?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item5d4d36fece
You will want 63/27 for the ratio. There is some stuff going on at the melting temp that I don't remember specifics from but at certain ratios the solder will melt then you have to get it hotter in order for it to stick. With 63/27 as soon as it melts, it sticks.
I can't find any 63/27 but there's this 63/37 one.
What bout this one ? :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/63-37-Tin-Solder-Welding-Iron-Wire-Lead-0-8mm-2-Rosin-Core-Flux-Reel-100G-UK-/400727408334?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item5d4d36fece
Yeah sorry I just had the ratio wrong you are correct with the 37. Kester 44 is generally regarded as the go to solder for hobbyists but if it is tough to find I don't see why that wont work. Not sure the type of flux that is in it so make sure that you clean the board good when you are done.
eutectic (read: leaded) soldering alloys are significantly easier to work with because they melt at a much lower (read: safer) temperature, and are less likely to yield "cold joints" when cooled. "eutectic" means "behaves like a homogeneous substance", in that eutectic alloys have a single phase transition temperature in which the alloy goes from solid to liquid and back.
"cold" joints are caused by micro-fractures that develop as an alloy in liquid state is cooling. non-eutectic alloys have intra-alloy bulk sections that solidify before other sections of the mass, and very slight movement can cause these bits that are cooling out of phase to solidify in such a way as to leave large voids in the joint. These voids do not conduct electricity as well as a voidless mass of bulk material.
You may remember the famous "red ring of death" from the first generation of xbox 360s. cold joints that formed over long periods of heating and cooling cycles on bga balls was the root cause of that issue.
Can anyone recommend a good soldering iron/station and where to get it in the UK?
Has anyone bought the Hakko FX888D from http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/fx888D.html ? Since lots of people recommend this.. seems like it would be a good buy.
I also came across http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/ but I haven't looked at it too closely yet.
I just went ahead and bought from Dancap!Can anyone recommend a good soldering iron/station and where to get it in the UK?
Has anyone bought the Hakko FX888D from http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/fx888D.html ? Since lots of people recommend this.. seems like it would be a good buy.
I also came across http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/ but I haven't looked at it too closely yet.
Mine came from Dancap on the recommendation of someone else from here (name evades me at the minute :confused:). Definitely worth a purchase, both the iron and Dancap are brilliant.
Maybe some can shed some light on this. Used my 80w radio Shack Station to do some work last night. And when I tried to use it today, it makes a clicking sound and won't display anything on the screen.Cheap crap. Buy a new one. Buy something of quality this time, it will save you money in the long run.
So I got an FX-888D for christmas and some Kester 44 63/37, what is the best temp for this? I keep seeing 361F.
yes, because a repurposed toaster that hits 400+C to reflow solder is safe as long as you can't electrocute yourself on the power switch. ahaahahaa
no seriously kids. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME. bpiph is a special type of crazy. i'm not saying that i am not also a special type of crazy, but i am saying that i've burned and electrocuted myself more times than i can count.
POWER VS TEMPERATURE
Power is a unit of _work_ in the physical sense. Temperature is a _property of matter_, again, in the physical sense. Power can do work such as raising the temperature of something. Power is also necessary to lower the temperature of something. Power is measured in Watts, also known as Joules per second. A Joule is a unit of energy. Hence, power is energy expended over time.
On the other hand, think of temperature as the "disorderliness" of matter. The higher the temperature of a compound, the more the little atomic bits of the compound are actively moving around. If they move around _too_ fast, you can get into trouble, but metals can typically tolerate very very high temperatures (think 1200C) before they start causing trouble. This is not true for the chemicals that we call "flux", but let's ignore that for now.
HENCE, we expend energy over time, with our soldering irons, to raise the temperature of metal soldering alloys. The more energy we use per unit time, the more quickly the things we use the energy on will get hot. Cool!
However, there's an important corollary here. Variable _power_ tools are not the same as variable _temperature_ tools, and fixed power tools are not the same as fixed temperature tools. Further, when soldering, what is important is _temperature_, not power.
Why? Matter changes phase (solid to liquid, liquid to gas) at temperature boundaries. 63/37 tin to lead ratio soldering alloy changes from solid to liquid at 287C. Note that we have made no statement about the amount of power required. However, all else equal, more energy per unit time will raise the temperature of the soldering alloy faster. However, it will also raise the temperature of all the things that are thermally connected to the soldering alloy faster as well.
One of the most common discouraging mistakes that I typically see in people who are dipping their feet into soldering is accidental burning of components or circuit boards or skin (and more power turned a 1st degree burn into a 3rd degree burn ever so quickly..). Less power makes it harder to burn components. However, we still need to reach the melting point of the solder, so there is a balance between power and temperature.
This is thephysical principal that guided my choice of soldering irons. The Edsyn CL1481 iron is rated at 30W, that is, 30 Joules of energy per second. However, the heater that expends this energy into the joint self-regulates such that the temperature of the tip stays constant at ~370C.
Hence, if I hold the CL1481 iron to a joint a period of time that is not arbitrarily long, the iron will expend enough energy to bring the joint up to 370C (which we call equilibrium), and then the rate of temperature increase will actually plateau.
The upshot of this is that the designer of this iron, who is not me, but who was quite brilliant, designed an iron that will bring soldering joints up to processing temperature, but not much higher, making burning of components very difficult.
With both variable temperature and especially variable power irons, especially with poor quality control and components of dubious origin, the property above is extremely hard to achieve.
QuotePOWER VS TEMPERATURE
Power is a unit of _work_ in the physical sense. Temperature is a _property of matter_, again, in the physical sense. Power can do work such as raising the temperature of something. Power is also necessary to lower the temperature of something. Power is measured in Watts, also known as Joules per second. A Joule is a unit of energy. Hence, power is energy expended over time.
On the other hand, think of temperature as the "disorderliness" of matter. The higher the temperature of a compound, the more the little atomic bits of the compound are actively moving around. If they move around _too_ fast, you can get into trouble, but metals can typically tolerate very very high temperatures (think 1200C) before they start causing trouble. This is not true for the chemicals that we call "flux", but let's ignore that for now.
HENCE, we expend energy over time, with our soldering irons, to raise the temperature of metal soldering alloys. The more energy we use per unit time, the more quickly the things we use the energy on will get hot. Cool!
However, there's an important corollary here. Variable _power_ tools are not the same as variable _temperature_ tools, and fixed power tools are not the same as fixed temperature tools. Further, when soldering, what is important is _temperature_, not power.
Why? Matter changes phase (solid to liquid, liquid to gas) at temperature boundaries. 63/37 tin to lead ratio soldering alloy changes from solid to liquid at 287C. Note that we have made no statement about the amount of power required. However, all else equal, more energy per unit time will raise the temperature of the soldering alloy faster. However, it will also raise the temperature of all the things that are thermally connected to the soldering alloy faster as well.
One of the most common discouraging mistakes that I typically see in people who are dipping their feet into soldering is accidental burning of components or circuit boards or skin (and more power turned a 1st degree burn into a 3rd degree burn ever so quickly..). Less power makes it harder to burn components. However, we still need to reach the melting point of the solder, so there is a balance between power and temperature.
This is thephysical principal that guided my choice of soldering irons. The Edsyn CL1481 iron is rated at 30W, that is, 30 Joules of energy per second. However, the heater that expends this energy into the joint self-regulates such that the temperature of the tip stays constant at ~370C.
Hence, if I hold the CL1481 iron to a joint a period of time that is not arbitrarily long, the iron will expend enough energy to bring the joint up to 370C (which we call equilibrium), and then the rate of temperature increase will actually plateau.
The upshot of this is that the designer of this iron, who is not me, but who was quite brilliant, designed an iron that will bring soldering joints up to processing temperature, but not much higher, making burning of components very difficult.
With both variable temperature and especially variable power irons, especially with poor quality control and components of dubious origin, the property above is extremely hard to achieve.
basically, set your iron to the processing temperature. a good heating element will expend a fixed amount of power (which remember is work/time, so "fixed amount of power" means that the element will always pump the same amount of energy into the junction per unit time). the temperature control tells your iron when to stop pumping energy into the junction. there are subtleties to this because of diffusion, but the general idea is that anything connected to the tip with (what we model as) zero thermal resistance is going to sit at the set temp.
oh, and the processing temperature is determined by the flux, not the solder alloy. kester 63/37 RA has a 350C processing temp.
hakko aggressively enforces minimum advertised pricing on its authorized retailers, so it's often hard to get a deal on the products that are hard to do gray market parallel importation on like the 808 and fr300. look for site-wide coupons at all-spec, tequipment.net etc.
all-spec, techni-tool, tequipment, newark, MCM electronics, stanley supply are all good tool vendors. mouser and digikey only really carry hyper specialty tools. if you need that one AMP approved tool for a single connector type so that you can produce a thousand mil-spec assemblies, then the big component houses are a great option. otherwise, i've never had a bad experience with any of the above suppliers.
Question (hopefully this is the right place ti ask this)
I've been working on a phantom keyboard. Currently I have no plans to have LEDs as I will probably be using a case with no LED slots, but I would like to leave the possibility open for the future.
Of course once I get the plate on and all the keys soldered on, it will be very hard to solder on the resistors, as I will have to remove the plate. The LEDs, on the other hand, go over the plate (I think), so I think they woiuld not be that hard to solder on.
Which got me wondering - is it OK to solder on the resistors but leave the LEDs off for now? Would that be alright to do? Or do they always have to be coupled with an LED or somegthing.
Question (hopefully this is the right place ti ask this)
I've been working on a phantom keyboard. Currently I have no plans to have LEDs as I will probably be using a case with no LED slots, but I would like to leave the possibility open for the future.
Of course once I get the plate on and all the keys soldered on, it will be very hard to solder on the resistors, as I will have to remove the plate. The LEDs, on the other hand, go over the plate (I think), so I think they woiuld not be that hard to solder on.
Which got me wondering - is it OK to solder on the resistors but leave the LEDs off for now? Would that be alright to do? Or do they always have to be coupled with an LED or somegthing.
Depends on the board, but I imagine you'd be okay. May be a good opportunity for some SIP sockets so you can stick in the LEDs later without soldering.
I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.
Thanks, will report back.I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.
Reporting back, did not work. Will look into buying a solder sucker.I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.
I had this problem as well, it was such a hassle trying to use solder wick. Whenever it did work I had no idea what I did right but I am still a pretty big soldering noob so...Reporting back, did not work. Will look into buying a solder sucker.I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.
So am II had this problem as well, it was such a hassle trying to use solder wick. Whenever it did work I had no idea what I did right but I am still a pretty big soldering noob so...Reporting back, did not work. Will look into buying a solder sucker.I am trying to get the solder out of the Poker 2 led slots with solder wick, but it will not come out now.Try adding some more solder to it then use the wick again.
For anyone looking for a solder sucker, I can't recommend the edsyns from www.geekhackers.org enough. They are the best short of getting the Hakko desoldering iron or better.Sold out :/
Amazon. I will check the model number on mine or you could check and see if you can make out a model number for that site. This is something that I would gladly spend the extra money for an authentic part and not a clone.
Do people make clones of solder suckers?Amazon. I will check the model number on mine or you could check and see if you can make out a model number for that site. This is something that I would gladly spend the extra money for an authentic part and not a clone.
The fakes/clones are very tricky to distinguish at times from the real thing just as an FYI for anyone who sees a deal that is too good to be true, it probably is.
Do people make clones of solder suckers?Amazon. I will check the model number on mine or you could check and see if you can make out a model number for that site. This is something that I would gladly spend the extra money for an authentic part and not a clone.
The fakes/clones are very tricky to distinguish at times from the real thing just as an FYI for anyone who sees a deal that is too good to be true, it probably is.
i've been talking with both massdrop and edsyn about making genuine soldapullts more available with or without the geekhackers changes. once i get off my butt, i should be able to get that show back on the road.The best way to get the real thing is order one from Edsyn direct at http://edsyn.com/ or wait for geekhackers to restock.
i've been talking with both massdrop and edsyn about making genuine soldapullts more available with or without the geekhackers changes. once i get off my butt, i should be able to get that show back on the road.
I have been meening to buy one of those. I actually recently found an interesting technique for de soldering especially tricky joints, e.g. ICs, LEDs (damn you square pads). If you have a compressor you can actually heat up the joint with an iron in your right hand and then blast a bit of air onto it. The solder gets blown off the joint completely leaving no tricky residue or anything around the pin. Of course that solder has to go somewhere (generally it splatters right next to the pad) but you can easily clean it up by quickly running the iron over the mess and having it wisk onto it.
The best way to get the real thing is order one from Edsyn direct at http://edsyn.com/ or wait for geekhackers to restock.
in the near future i may be limited to selling full geekhackers units only. it's not really clear at this point. i'm pushing on a couple of different directions, and have no idea which one will be a good way forward. in the meantime, please feel free to follow along in the geekhackers.org vendor forum.i've been talking with both massdrop and edsyn about making genuine soldapullts more available with or without the geekhackers changes. once i get off my butt, i should be able to get that show back on the road.
Please bring back the Soldapult rebuild kits! I use my Hakko 808 99% of the time, but when I need just a couple of joints done I use my DS-017 and I hate it. It damages less pads than my clone, but it needs a Kawa makeover kit. My clone has a lock for the hand plunger to make it travel-toolbag friendly, so it stays at work.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422247672&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wlc100I don't mind waiting for it to heat up. I usually prep everything while that happens ;D
For the price this is a tough iron to beat. It does heat up slow but I don't have anything bad to say about mine.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422247672&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wlc100I don't mind waiting for it to heat up. I usually prep everything while that happens ;D
For the price this is a tough iron to beat. It does heat up slow but I don't have anything bad to say about mine.
Best soldering iron for $100 or less? I'd imagine there's something better than an Edsyn CL1481 in that range?
I found the Hakko FX888D on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8) for $91, how much bang for my buck is that?
Until now I've just used the cheapest iron I could find at Radioshack, but it's in pretty rough shape having not really been maintained as it was kind of a one-off for some soldering I did a year ago. Looking to put in my xwhatsit controller and likely build a custom in the coming year or so, so I'd like to hav something that will last and perform well if taken care of properly. From what I understand I think I'd like something with variable temp (unless that comes at the expense of quality)?
So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.
I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.
Here are the stations I've been looking at:
http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering (http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering)
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails)
This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:
http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station (http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station)
The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.
You will find varying opinions on the Hakko FX-888D. I used one for a year, and never had one problem. But some people, after a teardown look inside, have come to the conclusion that the stations are very cheaply made, and therefore may not last. As always, YMMV. I personally think it's a nice starter package.
You could also look at the Weller WESD51. It's another fine entry level station.
If your budget can handle it, you might be able to pick up a used Hakko FX-951, FP-101, or FM-202 station for just a bit more. Those are professional level stations, which should last you a long, long time. You will probably have to do some research into which iron handle is compatible with which base, as they are usually sold separately when buying used. And of course, get the tips which match your handle.
So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.
I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.
Here are the stations I've been looking at:
http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering (http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering)
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails)
This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:
http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station (http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station)
The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.
Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set :thumb:
So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.
I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.
Here are the stations I've been looking at:
http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering (http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering)
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails)
This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:
http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station (http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station)
The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.
Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set :thumb:
I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.
I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.
Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.
So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.
I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.
Here are the stations I've been looking at:
http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering (http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering)
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails)
This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:
http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station (http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station)
The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.
Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set :thumb:
I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.
I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.
Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.
I could proxy one with your phantom if you would like?
So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.
I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.
Here are the stations I've been looking at:
http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering (http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering)
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails)
This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:
http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station (http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station)
The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.
Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set :thumb:
I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.
I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.
Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.
I could proxy one with your phantom if you would like?
It would go well with your surprise :p :thumb:
So I'm looking into learning how to solder, but I want to buy something decent that will last for awhile.. but I also have a bit of a tight budget.
I've found a few things in my price range so far, I'd love to hear some opinions on them. I'd love some suggestions of other stations, and an affordable de-soldering tool suggestion would be great too.
Here are the stations I've been looking at:
http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering (http://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891975&sr=8-5&keywords=desoldering)
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000VINMRO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FSCB8N4XVP5G#productDetails)
This one is a little out of my price range, but I might be able to spring for it:
http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station (http://www.amazon.ca/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1422891605&sr=8-6&keywords=soldering+station)
The Sigma 60D is obviously the best deal, as it comes with a heap of accessories, but I'm not sure if it's garbage or not.
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys.
Hakko makes great stuff, pair it with an edsyn soldapump and you are all set :thumb:
I would like to get the Hakko FX888D and a Soldapullt, but it's way out of my price range. The cheapest I can find the Hakko for is $130CAD, and the Soldapullt is about $60. Plus I still need solder wire, maybe tips, flux, on top of the station and pump.
I couldn't find anything used either, unfortunately.
Maybe I'm out of luck for soldering for awhile.
I could proxy one with your phantom if you would like?
It would go well with your surprise :p :thumb:
If the price ends up being better that would be great. I don't mind used either.
I'm not sure where to look for a used FX888D, I checked eBay.ca and my local classifieds, and couldn't find anything.
Is it ok to use a cheap $15 iron + solder kit for a single 60% keyboard job?
And also what you plan on soldering. If it is all through hole and no LEDs(in case you need to desolder) and if you don't need to desolder at all, then I think it would work.Is it ok to use a cheap $15 iron + solder kit for a single 60% keyboard job?
That would all depend on how competent you are at soldering.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. ;D
I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.
Glad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. ;D
I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.
Kinda hard to find this info, since it was posted in comments on a reddit thread.
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vx98k/photos_planckatomic_inspired_cartesian_longboard/colq1o9Quote from: fogGlad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.
Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?
This and a toothbrush.Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?
Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.
This and a toothbrush.Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?
Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.
Ya. Not sure I would either. Probably would be awful. Haha.This and a toothbrush.Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?
Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.
I don't recommend you brush your teeth with high-percentage isopropyl alcohol sir. Just sayin.
This and a toothbrush.Maybe someone can shed some light on this. What should I be using to clean up the residual flux/gunk left over on the board once it's all together?
Isopropyl / rubbing alcohol as high of concentration as you can find, I personally wouldn't recommend anything less than 90% and won't use anything less than 70%.
I don't recommend you brush your teeth with high-percentage isopropyl alcohol sir. Just sayin.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. ;D
I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.
Kinda hard to find this info, since it was posted in comments on a reddit thread.
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vx98k/photos_planckatomic_inspired_cartesian_longboard/colq1o9Quote from: fogGlad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wire for handwiring a keyboard? New at this. But my Hakko is out for delivery today. ;D
I want to order some in case I lift a pad or something, and I need to wire a trace by hand. I was also thinking about buying a Planck kit too.
Kinda hard to find this info, since it was posted in comments on a reddit thread.
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2vx98k/photos_planckatomic_inspired_cartesian_longboard/colq1o9Quote from: fogGlad you noticed the wire. I have stopped using standard ribbon cables for these hand builds. I had some old rainbow colored bundled IDE cables that I tore apart and was cannibalizing for use building circuits and realized that I preferred it's gauge, so I ordered some of this [30AWG blue hookup wire from mouser http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OK-Industries/R30B-0100/?qs=kjdRZtHFUmlRP7B8cvTVWw%3D%3D. It absolutely wouldn't stand up to any repeated flexing at the point of solder, but it's ideal for me in any sort of static unmoving configuration like this.
Isn't 30AWG pretty small for this? I would expect something closer to like 26AWG hookup wire to be nicer to work with.
I know a bunch of people have been using magnet wire for hand wiring projects.
I will dig out the thermocouples I have at an appropriate time.. Meanwhile, yesterday I got some inspiration to finally do some planned upgrades to my toaster =) Added some more insulation, some extra mass and rigidity, removed some wires I didn't use, and the very slow thermocouple I had put in it. I also built the solid state relay with its potentiometer into a unit with a wall socket. My multimeter probes fits snugly into that black cable. Now I'll have a power index through the output voltage =D Up until a particular day in my life I was unaware of what the voltage across the potentiometer was, then I found out it is enough to tickle. Today I measured, and it is the full 224-two-holes-in-the-wall output. No more holding the potentiometer by the wires while turning it, yay for safety!
(Attachment Link)
Will the solder expire? I purchase a solder from geekhackers.org last year but due to GB delays I might not be able to assemble on time. Will I still be able to use the solder after a year I have purchase it?
Will the solder expire? I purchase a solder from geekhackers.org last year but due to GB delays I might not be able to assemble on time. Will I still be able to use the solder after a year I have purchase it?
Yes, the solder will be fine. The flux has a shelf life, but the solder will be ok. Somebody else might be able to provide a bit more insight than me.
I finally assembled my reflow oven controller, it is very simple, just with button and buzzer, no LCD. I monitor temperature in serial console during reflow. Looks like it works :D
https://github.com/tmk/HeadlessReflowOvenShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/YKi7FfLh.jpg)
I consider buying this soldering iron in order to try soldering for the first time. I don't want to invest too much money in it as I don't know if I'll like it or not.It's the one I got , I'll show you tuesday :p
http://www.amazon.fr/STATION-SOUDAGE-150-450%C2%B0C-Appareils-%C3%A9lectroniques/dp/B0043QOAV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1425047744&sr=8-9&keywords=fer+%C3%A0+souder (http://www.amazon.fr/STATION-SOUDAGE-150-450%C2%B0C-Appareils-%C3%A9lectroniques/dp/B0043QOAV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1425047744&sr=8-9&keywords=fer+%C3%A0+souder)
What do you guys think of this model? I'm sorry the link is in french. I didn't find any options to switch the language of the page. I guess you could use Google page translation.
I looked into the cheap package shown in the OP but I'm not sure they ship worldwide plus it might cost me a bit.
I consider buying this soldering iron in order to try soldering for the first time. I don't want to invest too much money in it as I don't know if I'll like it or not.It's the one I got , I'll show you tuesday :p
http://www.amazon.fr/STATION-SOUDAGE-150-450%C2%B0C-Appareils-%C3%A9lectroniques/dp/B0043QOAV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1425047744&sr=8-9&keywords=fer+%C3%A0+souder (http://www.amazon.fr/STATION-SOUDAGE-150-450%C2%B0C-Appareils-%C3%A9lectroniques/dp/B0043QOAV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1425047744&sr=8-9&keywords=fer+%C3%A0+souder)
What do you guys think of this model? I'm sorry the link is in french. I didn't find any options to switch the language of the page. I guess you could use Google page translation.
I looked into the cheap package shown in the OP but I'm not sure they ship worldwide plus it might cost me a bit.
can anyone explain to me if either of these are genuine or what the reason for the price difference is?Ummm. They are both $95, but one you get free cutters. Maybe I did not understand the question?
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1425142811&sr=8-10&keywords=soldering+iron
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425142811&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+iron
A noob question: is it necessary to clean up flux after soldering? I changed a few switches in my keyboard and there is some flux left on the PCB (I use a solder that has flux in the middle). Its appearance matches rosin flux I find on Google image. Will the remaining flux on PCB affects the functionality of the keyboard in long term?yes and no. some solder is "no clean" and will be fine. but its always safe to just take an old toothbrush and clean it with rubbing alcohol.(will make everything slightly sticky)
A noob question: is it necessary to clean up flux after soldering? I changed a few switches in my keyboard and there is some flux left on the PCB (I use a solder that has flux in the middle). Its appearance matches rosin flux I find on Google image. Will the remaining flux on PCB affects the functionality of the keyboard in long term?
Thank you! Kester 44 looks like what I found in the lab and used in soldering my keyboard, as I remember. So I think I will just leave the flux there. Though it's not pretty, it's inside the case and I rarely see it. I am too lazy to find a solvent to clean it up ;D (I also doubt if there is any solvent in the lab).A noob question: is it necessary to clean up flux after soldering? I changed a few switches in my keyboard and there is some flux left on the PCB (I use a solder that has flux in the middle). Its appearance matches rosin flux I find on Google image. Will the remaining flux on PCB affects the functionality of the keyboard in long term?
Unless the flux is acid or corrosive flux, you don't need to clean the residue.
The Kester 44 solder that is selling on GH has non-corrosive and non-conductive flux, so you don't really need to clean it after soldered.
Silly question but i just tried soldering for the first time (good thing i bought extra switches and diodes....but the solder joint for each switch needs to be AFTER the diode, correct? I effed up and soldering the lead from one diode to right before the diode for the next switch in the row.
Silly question but i just tried soldering for the first time (good thing i bought extra switches and diodes....but the solder joint for each switch needs to be AFTER the diode, correct? I effed up and soldering the lead from one diode to right before the diode for the next switch in the row.
A picture would help a lot. Are you soldering a hand-wired matrix? PCB? I think I understand what you're asking but don't want to make assumptions, so pictures help a lot.
One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/okIpaUe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Vhisvjh.jpg)
Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?
One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/okIpaUe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Vhisvjh.jpg)
Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?
I don't see anything wrong. One thing I want to make sure you understand is that you MUST put LEDs in those sip sockets BEFORE you solder or you will spend hours trying to get LEDs in there after. Pro tip... :P
Edit: So if you manually connect those two it will not register the key press? If that is the case it seems that the pad has somehow disconnected from the trace. You will have to connect the pad to the destination of the trace then.
Edit2: Your missing a diode. That is probably the problem...
One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/okIpaUe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Vhisvjh.jpg)
Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?
I don't see anything wrong. One thing I want to make sure you understand is that you MUST put LEDs in those sip sockets BEFORE you solder or you will spend hours trying to get LEDs in there after. Pro tip... :P
Edit: So if you manually connect those two it will not register the key press? If that is the case it seems that the pad has somehow disconnected from the trace. You will have to connect the pad to the destination of the trace then.
Edit2: Your missing a diode. That is probably the problem...
Damn I must have broke the diode when soldering somehow, very good catch swill.
I looked on the board for one I could re-use , could I use this one (considering I'll never put a switch on that position) :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/300PCPF.jpg)
sorry ultra potato
Is there something special to know when working on this kind of diodes?
I'm on my phone, so its hard to tell anything. You have to pay attention to polarity when working diodes (not sure if you soldered them originally). There is a right and wrong direction. They basically work like a one way valve.One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/okIpaUe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Vhisvjh.jpg)
Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?
I don't see anything wrong. One thing I want to make sure you understand is that you MUST put LEDs in those sip sockets BEFORE you solder or you will spend hours trying to get LEDs in there after. Pro tip...
Edit: So if you manually connect those two it will not register the key press? If that is the case it seems that the pad has somehow disconnected from the trace. You will have to connect the pad to the destination of the trace then.
Edit2: Your missing a diode. That is probably the problem...
Damn I must have broke the diode when soldering somehow, very good catch swill.
I looked on the board for one I could re-use , could I use this one (considering I'll never put a switch on that position) :Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/300PCPF.jpg)
sorry ultra potato
Is there something special to know when working on this kind of diodes?
Damn how do I know which type of diode I need? What pictures could I take so you guys can help me out?
Almost certainly stupid question, but I have those : http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
133Ω , I can't use them as diodes right?
Damn how do I know which type of diode I need? What pictures could I take so you guys can help me out?
Almost certainly stupid question, but I have those : http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/electric-parts/15-resistorssmd-100-pcs.html
133Ω , I can't use them as diodes right?
The diode what RSIII uses is 1n4148 in 0805 package
QuoteThe diode what RSIII uses is 1n4148 in 0805 package
This : http://www.amazon.fr/1N4148-IN4148-SOD-323-Switching-Diode/dp/B00CN530MA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426064622&sr=1-1&keywords=1n4148+0805#productDetails
should work right?
What temp should I use on my Hakko for harvesting switches off a Cherry PCB? Using a cheap soldapudt. Sorry Mkawa, didn't have enough left for one of your nice Edsyn's :-(
What temp should I use on my Hakko for harvesting switches off a Cherry PCB? Using a cheap soldapudt. Sorry Mkawa, didn't have enough left for one of your nice Edsyn's :-(
Please help!
What temp should I use on my Hakko for harvesting switches off a Cherry PCB? Using a cheap soldapudt. Sorry Mkawa, didn't have enough left for one of your nice Edsyn's :-(
Please help!
If the switch was soldered with lead-solder, you can set around 320-330 �C (608-626 Fahrenheit) If the switch was soldered with lead-free-solder, you can set around 350 �C (662 Fahrenheit) However, you should not keep the soldering-iron on the switch legs longer than 3 seconds.
every modern product made on an assembly line is lead-free no-clean. peg the iron at 450c and add RA-type flux or something else equally effective (no-clean also means no-efficacy.. :/) to scrub the oxidization. if you don't have separate flux, add a bit of solder to the joint between desoldering attempts. the flux in the core of your fresh solder will help clean the joint, and the solder you add will distribute that flux into the old joint as it becomes molten.
on a scale of not-all-that-delicate to OMG DON'T BREATHE ON IT, cherry switches are much closer to indestructible than otherwise. the thing to remember about melting solder in general is that if you're not melting solder pretty much immediately, then it's not a problem of the heater on your iron not being hot enough, but thermal resistance between the heater and the soft metal in a solder joint. metal joints form an oxide skin and gather other impurities that cause them to become less thermally efficient and have other bizarre properties that you don't want when you're soldering and desoldering. this also goes for the solder on the tip of your iron.
there are two ways to clean up this suboptimal skin of oxide and impurities on metal. the first is mechanical abrasion. one of the most useful tools you can have in your soldering kit is a brass brush. these are fantastic for scrubbing old component legs and for when you accidentally burn plast^H^H^H skin^H^H^H your face with your iron tip. i tend to put a bit of solvent (eg, iso alcohol) on the brush then scrub. for your iron tip you can and should scrub the tip while hot. between vigorous scrubs, you should attempt to tin with fresh solder. a low quality tip will be extremely difficult to tin, so don't hurt yourself trying to scrub carbon and oxide off of your tip if you're using eg a cheaper asian knockoff iron.
the second method is flux. flux is a corrosive solvent that activates with the application of energy; that is, when exposed to oxide and power as heat, an endothermic reaction occurs that takes takes the oxide and flux components and produces a gas. (fun fact: that gas is what you smell when you solder, and is really the only potentially toxic thing involved in soldering; flux fumes are potent VOCs.) hence, flux flux and more flux. then heat. then more flux.
between two tinned surfaces, without any oxide, heat transfers pretty readily, and all parts that have a clear path to the heater will pretty much sit at the same temperature, which means that your parts and solder should heat more or less instantly to your heater temperature. _if this doesn't happen_, don't freak out and don't attempt to hold the tip to the parts for longer. instead, back up to the above and determine where the thermal resistance is, clear that resistance and then try again.
desolder at the same temperature you would solder at, and add flux to strip the oxidization from the existing joint. soldering (processing) temperature again is:
for leaded solders: 350-375C
for unleaded solders: 450C
It's a bit more complicated than that, and the notion that processing temperatures are higher than alloy phase change only because of thermal recovery efficiency is a common misconception. I'll get into it later, but the basic idea is that the alloy and oxide will become molten at about the same time, and oxide within a joint or non uniform transition into the solidus phase results in joints with higher bulk defect rates and hence lower joint longevity. Lead free alloys are particularly prone to this phenomenon, hence the significantly higher processing temperatures.
I have always felt it was a result of the economies of scale being smaller with the 220-240v versions, and the fact that the structure of the distribution networks tend to permit AU/EU customers being ripped off a bit more (things are the same here in Australia with any 240V soldering tools, I posted in this thread a while back about the Australian Hakko iron costing $200 instead of $100). There could be other factors at play too, I guess. Maybe others can shed additional light?
It's a bit more complicated than that, and the notion that processing temperatures are higher than alloy phase change only because of thermal recovery efficiency is a common misconception. I'll get into it later, but the basic idea is that the alloy and oxide will become molten at about the same time, and oxide within a joint or non uniform transition into the solidus phase results in joints with higher bulk defect rates and hence lower joint longevity. Lead free alloys are particularly prone to this phenomenon, hence the significantly higher processing temperatures.
Well, lead-free reflow parameters for example are typically about 40c higher than leaded reflow profiles at their peak - 260c (at most) compared to 220c, which corresponds well to the alloy melting point difference between the two. This is as per JEDEC J-STD-020D, but obviously proper reflow ovens have a lot of power and are able to maintain a particular temperature extremely well, not to mention that it's a radiant heat instead of point based and that the flux will already be there in the paste, it's fresh, and so on. Still, I'm quite opposed to the idea that using 450c for lead-free is needed, as it is definitely damaging to everything involved. If anything, I'd say that for proper lead free soldering at much lower temps folks should invest into a JBC, Pace, Metcal, etc, especially since it's possible to get a good deal on ebay for them at well below market prices.
Because lead-free solders have higher melting temperatures than solders containing lead, there is an immediate tendency to turn up the temperature on the soldering system. Higher operating temperatures do not make the process quicker and introduce unnecessary risk factors. Leaded solder typically melts at 363F and lead-free solders melt in the neighborhood of 425F, an iron set at 650 or 700F will still melt lead-free solder. The issue isn't temperature; it's the ability of your iron/tip configuration to transfer heat to the work efficiently and the heater's ability to keep up with the heat loss into the work. High performance tips are available from several manufacturers and an evaluation should be undertaken to thoroughly understand how efficiently heat is being transferred from your existing tips to the work.
...
To maximize the life of your soldering tips:
1. Always use the lowest effective temperatures while soldering
If excessive process temperatures, and subsequent thermal damage to assemblies, are to be avoided in the lead-free hand soldering process the following aspects must be considered:
...
3. Thermal performance of the soldering iron. The ability of the soldering iron to input the correct rate of temperature rise to the solder joint is important, both with respect to flux activation and also final solder joint temperature.
4. Tip Temperature. Existing tip temperatures can be used in most applications providing the correct tip shape is implemented as well as good housekeeping techniques. Higher tip temperatures may be needed for very thermally demanding applications.
Which is the suggested soldering temperature in lead free processes?
Our experience shows that 90% of solder joints using JBC tools can be performed successfully at 350C or less, in any case it is not recommended to exceed 370C.
Why is it possible to solder at lower using a JBC tool?
It is possible because the tip has an extremely fast thermal response.
On a conventional iron’s tip there is a strong drop in temperature while the tip is transferring the heat to the board. If the thermal response is slow, the tip does not have the time to recover the temperature, especially if a series of solder joint is performed. This is the reason why the operator is used to select a higher temperature, resulting in short tip life and PCB / component damage.
Simply raising the temperature of a soldering iron because of the high melting point may result in faster oxidation and erosion. The problems with lead-free solder can be solved by using products which offer special characteristics described below.
1. Soldering iron
Accurate temperature control and excellent thermal recovery rate enable the use of lead-free solder without the need for setting a higher temperature.
As stated previously, the melting temperatures are up to 40 degrees C higher. For example, a soldering iron temperature for a lead-free process may be 400 degrees C versus 360 degrees C for tin-lead.
...
Now, let’s take a look at the soldering operation. For this example we’ll use a tin-silver-copper alloy that has a melting temperature of 217 degrees C. We’ll be using a temperature- controlled
soldering iron with a chisel tip. The temperature will be set at 410 degrees C
What is the best soldering tip temperature for lead-free SAC and SnCu?
The temperature of the tip or contact temperature is very important to ease the lead-free hand-soldering operation. When using 63/37 solders temperatures as low as 650ºF have been used but with lead-free 700-800ºF is best. The higher temperature does compensate for the slower wetting exhibited with these lead-free alloys. Above 800ºF issues of board and component damage may arise; at lower temperatures cold solder joints and flagging are the normal complaints.
...
ƒInsure the tips are designed for lead-free
Insure the temperature is set to 700-800 ºF
There are two factors involved in making this selection, one being the mass of the metal being joined and second the size of the soldering iron tip.
As for the alloy being used, the 63/37 is liquidus at 183C and the new RoHS alloys, such as SAC305 and Sn100C have a liquidus temperature around 215C. With the soldering iron set at between 371C [700F] and 398C [750F], one should be able to solder most joints. If the mass of the joints is very small then the temperature of the solder iron could be reduced to 343C [650F].
It is recommended to use the lowest possible temperature which will reflow the total joint, as using higher temperatures will create more damage to the tip of the soldering iron which will increase tooling cost.
These temperatures are satisfactory for all alloys, be it either the standard Sn/Pb or the new Lead-free alloys such as SAC 305 and Sn100C.
For leadfree alloys, a good starting point is 350 degrees C, or 662 degrees F. Variations in the alloy, either tin-lead, or lead-free, will require variations to the starting point temperatures.
...
After we’ve prepared the tip of the soldering iron, we should be ready to start the soldering operation. We'll be using a temperature controlled soldering iron with a chisel tip. The temperature of the tip will be set at 315 degrees C, or 600 degrees F for tin-lead solder – and about 350 degrees C, or 662 degrees F for lead free solder.
...
Now, we’ll demonstrate the same soldering technique using lead free solder. The main difference is that lead free has a higher melting temperature than tin-lead – so instead of a starting temperature of 315 degrees C, we’ll set the temperature at 350 degrees C.
Lead-free solder alloys generally have higher melting points. Therefore, the solder tip must be set to a higher temperature. For example, when using the lead-free solder alloy, tin silver copper (SAC-305), it was determined that the solder tip had to be set to 343°C / 650°F, as opposed to 315°C / 600°F for tin-lead (SnPb).
When I teach J-STD-001 or IPC-7711-7721, I start the students at 600°F for Sn/Pb and 650°F for SAC305 when learning on the standard IPC circuit board. However, our company work instructions are sometimes customized for the factors mentioned above. I find that component and PCB damage usually occurs when the operator compensates for the factors (poor soldering) by turning the temperature up where the control base allow (my favorite bases are from OKi / Metcal that doesn't allow operator manipulation) or by using a tip that is too large (actual temperature can deviate +25-50°F higher than indicated on the base, when measured with pyrometer). In this area, Gerald's advice is vital - quality of the tools matter.
I know this is a bit off the beaten path here, but I have a soldering question. I want to cut the tabs off my AT that hold the stock controller on and move them to the middle of the plate so that the entire controller is hidden from view. It is being used without a case. Plus with the xwhatsit controller, only one of the tabs gets used and I want to use both for a better connection to ground plane of the back plate. Would silver based solder from a home improvement store from the plumbing section be sufficient? Or should I purchase a better quality solder from the web? What sort of silver content should I be looking for? This is going to be soldering steel to steel, and am planning on using a propane torch.i'd just JB weld it.
The reason I am wanting to solder is because I feel I will be imposing less warpage to the back plate than if I was to attempt to TIG weld it. Plus, I don't want to use standard leaded solder as it doesn't have the same mechanical strength that silver based solder does.
I know this is a bit off the beaten path here, but I have a soldering question. I want to cut the tabs off my AT that hold the stock controller on and move them to the middle of the plate so that the entire controller is hidden from view. It is being used without a case. Plus with the xwhatsit controller, only one of the tabs gets used and I want to use both for a better connection to ground plane of the back plate. Would silver based solder from a home improvement store from the plumbing section be sufficient? Or should I purchase a better quality solder from the web? What sort of silver content should I be looking for? This is going to be soldering steel to steel, and am planning on using a propane torch.i'd just JB weld it.
The reason I am wanting to solder is because I feel I will be imposing less warpage to the back plate than if I was to attempt to TIG weld it. Plus, I don't want to use standard leaded solder as it doesn't have the same mechanical strength that silver based solder does.
if your components cannot handle exposure to contact heat at that temperature, you will want to use a different solder. because the focus of this thread is to inform new and intermediate assemblers, i recommend 350C as a good temperature for kester 44 RA, and 450C for water-soluble lead-free solders. in contrast, most solder pastes will recommend temperatures about 100C lower as the flux does not need to be nearly as active due to the even distribution of flux within the paste.
regardless, this discussion is best left to an advanced soldering thread. like this one! https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70128
I've been a bit skeptic to the very high temperatures suggested by mkawa. Why go much higher than necessary for the solder to melt, I wondered. But just to try I set my station to 450 rather than the 380 I normally use. I may just be imagining but I think my tip actually kept cleaner from crusty flux crap and cleaned up nicer against the sponge. I worried a bit and lowered the temperature to 400, and I think it's still better than 380. I will keep looking for my optimal temperature, probably higher than 380.
I think the most interesting figure should be what the manufacturer of the lead says is the correct temperature. They if anyone should know how they designed their alloy/flux to work..
I've been a bit skeptic to the very high temperatures suggested by mkawa. Why go much higher than necessary for the solder to melt, I wondered. But just to try I set my station to 450 rather than the 380 I normally use. I may just be imagining but I think my tip actually kept cleaner from crusty flux crap and cleaned up nicer against the sponge. I worried a bit and lowered the temperature to 400, and I think it's still better than 380. I will keep looking for my optimal temperature, probably higher than 380.
I think the most interesting figure should be what the manufacturer of the lead says is the correct temperature. They if anyone should know how they designed their alloy/flux to work..
I think the most interesting figure should be what the manufacturer of the lead says is the correct temperature. They if anyone should know how they designed their alloy/flux to work..as with most things in manufacturing, every finished part is a complex series of choices that carefully balance engineering goals against each other. designing and/or specifying a soldering material is as much if not more important than constraining the process of using that material.
I've been hunting around for a while now for a good quality 220-240V hot air station.
<snip>
What temperature should I use on my hakko 880d for soldering some switches and desoldering? This will be my first attempt
What temperature should I use on my hakko 880d for soldering some switches and desoldering? This will be my first attempt
One of the switch wasn't working (pressing it or doing a contact onto the solder points, so I desoldered it and I still can't see what's wrong:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/okIpaUe.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Vhisvjh.jpg)
Note: the 2 points were working before I tested the pcb when received, not working anymore sadly.
Can you guys help me?
QuoteThe diode what RSIII uses is 1n4148 in 0805 package
This : http://www.amazon.fr/1N4148-IN4148-SOD-323-Switching-Diode/dp/B00CN530MA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426064622&sr=1-1&keywords=1n4148+0805#productDetails
should work right?
Why do people keep talking about lead free solder? Is there some kind of advantage to it, or is leaded solder hard to get in the US/EU?
Received the diodes so follow up questions:
- how do I tel the polarity one those things (amazon link above), they don't seem to have any distinction on them ?
- do you have any trick to solder this thing? I have only one diode to solder but I'm with a 10$ iron. I though of doing a "pool" of solder onto the pad and then putting the diode in it.
gotcha thanks!Received the diodes so follow up questions:
- how do I tel the polarity one those things (amazon link above), they don't seem to have any distinction on them ?
- do you have any trick to solder this thing? I have only one diode to solder but I'm with a 10$ iron. I though of doing a "pool" of solder onto the pad and then putting the diode in it.
Diodes without polarity is unfortunate - look carefully maybe there's a dot instead of a line or something at least. If not, it's hard to check unless you have a multimeter, so I'd just return them as they'd be some really low quality ones anyway. Also, they're a bit of a wrong size, sod 323 is not exactly size compatible with 0805 - but you should have at least some overlap between the two, assuming you can find polarity.
To solder, make sure you have a thin pointy tip that is bright and shiny without excess solder. Take some thin gauge solder, and melt a tiny bit on the pad, just enough to cover it. If there's already solder on the pad, you can skip that. Take the component, place it in the correct orientation, and slightly solder one leg of it to the pad. Take a bit more solder, and solder the other pad, then add a bit more back to the first pad so that it forms a clean joint. Less solder is more for smd - be careful not to use too much, as these are small components with small leads and pads. Never keep your iron on a pad and component for longer than a few seconds, either.
Is it better a soldering torch, or a regular iron for SMD components?
Is it better a soldering torch, or a regular iron for SMD components?
No torch for anything with electronics. Hot air is ok, but no torch, that is only for pluming and jewelry.
I still wouldn't, I can't imagine being able to accurately control the temp at the tip. We had one in the AT shop in the navy, never saw it work right. I would rather have a plug in one that I don't have to worry about keeping full of fuel.
Is it better a soldering torch, or a regular iron for SMD components?
Here is my first practice soldering. I was surprised by how quickly the solder turned to liquid (instantly). I never felt like I was getting enough on there and every time I tried to add more it seemed to disappear. I think it was sticking to the tip of the iron. I am using 40 watt Weller with a 0.8 mm tip and 63/37 0.02 inch solder. The connections all seem to be holding. I realize the second diode is backwards. Do these look acceptable?
Here is my first practice soldering. I was surprised by how quickly the solder turned to liquid (instantly). I never felt like I was getting enough on there and every time I tried to add more it seemed to disappear. I think it was sticking to the tip of the iron. I am using 40 watt Weller with a 0.8 mm tip and 63/37 0.02 inch solder. The connections all seem to be holding. I realize the second diode is backwards. Do these look acceptable?
Hopefully one of these pictures is better. I did notice on the last one that I had the most success when I heated up the joint only and then quickly removed the tip and applied the solder. I hadn't intentionally put a dab of solder on the tip to help transfer heat but I think there was already some on the joint from a previous attempt. I'll try putting a little on the tip, heating the joint, then applying solder to the heated joint. Would it make sense to use a larger tip in this case? The solder I'm using is very thin and I can be fairly precise when applying it so maybe heating up a larger area of the joint would make things easier.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Picked up some stuff to build my RS84. How did I do?
Picked up:
Hakko FX888D
Chisel tip for the Hakko
Kester "44" Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031"
Desoldering braid
Will be desoldering a Cherry MX8100 G80-8113 with MX Clears.
My only previous experience with soldering has been with my PSU cables.
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=D2061ACA9EDE7042&id=D2061ACA9EDE7042%2110753&v=3&authkey=%21AB_CFwR7YMCLrTY
I recorded a session of me soldering, so this is how I do solderings :)
Is this the solder most people are recommending to pick up? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231408574698)
I am planning on doing a switch swap out for right now. I have an Edsyn 951sxe and Soldapullt coming in. I have a multimeter. Looking at the list on the front page, I'm missing:
* Solder spool holder
* Magnifying lamp/Jewler's visor
* Smoke Absorber
* Separate Flux
* Helping Hands
* Heat gun
Do I NEED any of these things? I feel like most of these are quality of life enhancements. Not sure about the smoke absorber...
Is there something else you all would highly recommend I get (besides practice) before I start the project? I spent an entire summer soldering at an internship in high school, but that was almost 15 years ago I don't remember all the ins and outs.
Is this the solder most people are recommending to pick up? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231408574698)
I am planning on doing a switch swap out for right now. I have an Edsyn 951sxe and Soldapullt coming in. I have a multimeter. Looking at the list on the front page, I'm missing:
* Solder spool holder
* Magnifying lamp/Jewler's visor
* Smoke Absorber
* Separate Flux
* Helping Hands
* Heat gun
Do I NEED any of these things? I feel like most of these are quality of life enhancements. Not sure about the smoke absorber...
Is there something else you all would highly recommend I get (besides practice) before I start the project? I spent an entire summer soldering at an internship in high school, but that was almost 15 years ago I don't remember all the ins and outs.
Is this just for one keyboard? or are you looking to be using this station pretty regularly?
If you're not looking to do many projects then this stuff isn't needed but if you're going to be using this station weekly/bi-weekly then this stuff would make life a lot easier.
All i have is an iron, solder, solder sucker and tweezers because i only needed it for a board or 2.
Ok so update: I realized that one of the diodes was a little burnt (C3)
Apparently I had grazed it with my iron accidentally. I removed the diode and that fixed the problem. I gather that diodes are for NKRO, does that mean that removing this one diode that I have NKRO -1 ?
Is this the solder most people are recommending to pick up? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231408574698)yah, keep in mind that solder is probably as old as i am. no worries though; just make sure you have a dropper full of flux hanging out to get the solder flowing.
I am planning on doing a switch swap out for right now. I have an Edsyn 951sxe and Soldapullt coming in. I have a multimeter. Looking at the list on the front page, I'm missing:
* Solder spool holder
* Magnifying lamp/Jewler's visor
* Smoke Absorber
* Separate Flux
* Helping Hands
* Heat gun
Do I NEED any of these things? I feel like most of these are quality of life enhancements. Not sure about the smoke absorber...
Is there something else you all would highly recommend I get (besides practice) before I start the project? I spent an entire summer soldering at an internship in high school, but that was almost 15 years ago I don't remember all the ins and outs.
Are lead free/ROHS compliant solders worth looking into or should I just stick with the standard 63/37?
Hey guys, what is the best temperature controlled station for ~$70? It needs to be Amazon so that I can get one day shipping on it. Thanks!
Hey guys, what is the best temperature controlled station for ~$70? It needs to be Amazon so that I can get one day shipping on it. Thanks!
I have a problem. I opened my Filco minila and discovered this.
You know how tough it can be when one switch lead is bent? Well, all the switch leads are bent on this keyboard. Including most of the 'tough' legs that normally are quite stiff.
Together with it being lead free solder and double sided PCB, I have no idea how to desolder this. But without desoldering, I can't get rid of the original switches and put in my own jailhouse mods.
hey berserker, someone can correct me if I'm wrong but you'll just need to desolder and solda-pult the solder out like you normally would. Then with some needle nose pliars bend the switch wire straight. You may have to desolder twice, once before bending the wire and again after bending the wire.
...I hate it when they bend the switch leads like that too.
I have a problem. I opened my Filco minila and discovered this.
You know how tough it can be when one switch lead is bent? Well, all the switch leads are bent on this keyboard. Including most of the 'tough' legs that normally are quite stiff.
Together with it being lead free solder and double sided PCB, I have no idea how to desolder this. But without desoldering, I can't get rid of the original switches and put in my own jailhouse mods.
... Granted, the soldering is ****. That was the first time after 2nd year in highschool, and should've been more careful. Some practice wouldn't have been a bad idea either.
It went haywire after desoldering (which was trial & error, obviously) the bottom row to make place for a 7u spacebar. In the end it worked fine, except for some LEDs which I've fixed yesterday. And then everything went to **** this morning...
(http://i.imgur.com/XcmLXpol.jpg) (http://imgur.com/XcmLXpo)
Did you try soldering wick?gootwick is one of the best afaik, my daily use.
You can use a small copper soldering wick, the smaller the better in this case, 1.5mm-wick would be great.
To make it easier, you can add a bit of flux before desolder it.
(Attachment Link)
If you have a soldering pick, it would be also useful in this case.
(Attachment Link)
PS: Indeed, the soldering pump is still in need because it will help to desolder most of the solder. The soldering wick will only useful for cleaning mess or something got stuck in between the switch and the trace.
(Attachment Link)
Did you try soldering wick?gootwick is one of the best afaik, my daily use.
You can use a small copper soldering wick, the smaller the better in this case, 1.5mm-wick would be great.
To make it easier, you can add a bit of flux before desolder it.
(Attachment Link)
If you have a soldering pick, it would be also useful in this case.
(Attachment Link)
PS: Indeed, the soldering pump is still in need because it will help to desolder most of the solder. The soldering wick will only useful for cleaning mess or something got stuck in between the switch and the trace.
(Attachment Link)
I'm also having the same issue with bent pins, and solder that won't fully desolder. Searching for eBay and Google for 'soldering pick' just gives me these:Show Image(http://www.cooltools.us/v/vspfiles/photos/SOL-301-2.jpg)
Is there another name for that tool, a soldering pick with a split end like that?
Also, how exactly do I move the bent pins? Melt the solder with my iron, and while the solder is melted, push the pin with the pick?
And one more question. Last time I used my soldering iron to solder (I've been having the same issue with de-soldering), it didn't want to melt solder quickly whether I set the iron to 350, 400, or 700. I would have to hold the iron to the solder point and pin for ten seconds or so before I could melt the solder. Did I manage to oxidize my tip? It looks fine, nice and silvery.
I'm using a Hakko FX888D, but I'm a soldering noob. I've been rather discouraged about using it, because so far all I've managed to do is lift a couple pads when I tried to de-solder my Filco numpad (which had the same bent pins as Berserk is dealing with). I also had trouble de-soldering a couple switches on my JD40.. my solder never wants to completely de-solder. There's always a little bit left no matter how much I try to get it all with my Soldapullt.
gootwick is one of the best afaik, my daily use.
I'm also having the same issue with bent pins, and solder that won't fully desolder. Searching for eBay and Google for 'soldering pick' just gives me these:Show Image(http://www.cooltools.us/v/vspfiles/photos/SOL-301-2.jpg)
Is there another name for that tool, a soldering pick with a split end like that?
Also, how exactly do I move the bent pins? Melt the solder with my iron, and while the solder is melted, push the pin with the pick?
And one more question. Last time I used my soldering iron to solder (I've been having the same issue with de-soldering), it didn't want to melt solder quickly whether I set the iron to 350, 400, or 700. I would have to hold the iron to the solder point and pin for ten seconds or so before I could melt the solder. Did I manage to oxidize my tip? It looks fine, nice and silvery.
I'm using a Hakko FX888D, but I'm a soldering noob. I've been rather discouraged about using it, because so far all I've managed to do is lift a couple pads when I tried to de-solder my Filco numpad (which had the same bent pins as Berserk is dealing with). I also had trouble de-soldering a couple switches on my JD40.. my solder never wants to completely de-solder. There's always a little bit left no matter how much I try to get it all with my Soldapullt.
You can search for the term "Solder assist", "solder support", this one is a good set for example:
http://www.goot.jp/en/handakanren/sa-10/Show Image(http://www.goot.jp/en/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/SA-10_Eye-catch.jpg)
Melt the solder with my iron, and while the solder is melted, push the pin with the pick?
Yes, it is correct.
And one more question. Last time I used my soldering iron to solder (I've been having the same issue with de-soldering), it didn't want to melt solder quickly whether I set the iron to 350, 400, or 700. I would have to hold the iron to the solder point and pin for ten seconds or so before I could melt the solder. Did I manage to oxidize my tip? It looks fine, nice and silvery.
With Hakko FX888D, it should be melting fast. You can try to figure the tip if it was oxidized? If it is, you can fix it with sanding and re-tinning it. If it is not, you can also consider to use a Hakko Chisel tip 2-3.2mm if you want the best heating. The default Hakko conical tip is very bad on soldering Cherry MX switch because it is too small.Show Image(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ASBJTjmFL._SL1000_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-DL2-Chisel-22-5mm-FX-8801/dp/B00762AHHQgootwick is one of the best afaik, my daily use.
Yes, it is very good :thumb:
MG Chemicals, Engineer, Hakko also have good wick but Goot wick is unbeatable.
I'm also having the same issue with bent pins, and solder that won't fully desolder. Searching for eBay and Google for 'soldering pick' just gives me these:Show Image(http://www.cooltools.us/v/vspfiles/photos/SOL-301-2.jpg)
Is there another name for that tool, a soldering pick with a split end like that?
Also, how exactly do I move the bent pins? Melt the solder with my iron, and while the solder is melted, push the pin with the pick?
And one more question. Last time I used my soldering iron to solder (I've been having the same issue with de-soldering), it didn't want to melt solder quickly whether I set the iron to 350, 400, or 700. I would have to hold the iron to the solder point and pin for ten seconds or so before I could melt the solder. Did I manage to oxidize my tip? It looks fine, nice and silvery.
I'm using a Hakko FX888D, but I'm a soldering noob. I've been rather discouraged about using it, because so far all I've managed to do is lift a couple pads when I tried to de-solder my Filco numpad (which had the same bent pins as Berserk is dealing with). I also had trouble de-soldering a couple switches on my JD40.. my solder never wants to completely de-solder. There's always a little bit left no matter how much I try to get it all with my Soldapullt.
You can search for the term "Solder assist", "solder support", this one is a good set for example:
http://www.goot.jp/en/handakanren/sa-10/Show Image(http://www.goot.jp/en/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/SA-10_Eye-catch.jpg)
Melt the solder with my iron, and while the solder is melted, push the pin with the pick?
Yes, it is correct.
And one more question. Last time I used my soldering iron to solder (I've been having the same issue with de-soldering), it didn't want to melt solder quickly whether I set the iron to 350, 400, or 700. I would have to hold the iron to the solder point and pin for ten seconds or so before I could melt the solder. Did I manage to oxidize my tip? It looks fine, nice and silvery.
With Hakko FX888D, it should be melting fast. You can try to figure the tip if it was oxidized? If it is, you can fix it with sanding and re-tinning it. If it is not, you can also consider to use a Hakko Chisel tip 2-3.2mm if you want the best heating. The default Hakko conical tip is very bad on soldering Cherry MX switch because it is too small.Show Image(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ASBJTjmFL._SL1000_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-DL2-Chisel-22-5mm-FX-8801/dp/B00762AHHQgootwick is one of the best afaik, my daily use.
Yes, it is very good :thumb:
MG Chemicals, Engineer, Hakko also have good wick but Goot wick is unbeatable.
Thanks for your help! I found a set of those tools on eBay. They should be handy!
I will try the advice you gave me. Should I use a really fine grit sandpaper, if I can't get it to heat properly again? I suppose it should be sandpaper for use on metal, not wood?
The tip I am having problems with is the same one you showed to me. I have not used the conical tip that came with my Hakko yet.
I also do not have flux. Perhaps that would help with my soldering and de-soldering.
Would this flux pen work?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Electroplax-Soldering-Rosin-Flux-Solder-Pen-Low-Solid-DIY-Solar-Cells-Panels-/281476737907?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4189522b73 (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Electroplax-Soldering-Rosin-Flux-Solder-Pen-Low-Solid-DIY-Solar-Cells-Panels-/281476737907?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4189522b73)
Is it important to use a good brand of flux? Kester maybe?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/flux-pen-Kester-flux-pen-soldering-flux-pen-solar-cell-the-best-for-solar-panel-/251958345196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa9e33dec (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/flux-pen-Kester-flux-pen-soldering-flux-pen-solar-cell-the-best-for-solar-panel-/251958345196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa9e33dec)
Thanks again for your help!! :thumb:
Some solder pastes are not meant for PCBs because they are acidic and will kill PCB over time.Flux is for cleaning the board. You need an clean surface for good wetting and dirty surfaces hurts the heat transfer. The cleaner the better in my eyes.
That said I’m very un-knowledeable about many things. I thought flux was for DEsoldering? I only ever use it for desoldering because soldering rarely causes me grief. I use Chinese flux and it isn’t crappy at all so YMMV. Just desoldered a hellish Filco where every single pin was folded over and I almost can’t see any change in the flux level in my bottle. (1 drop per pin was more than enough to send the solder shooting up the wick.) As usual I had a fan blowing, but there was no nasty smell.
And yes, brush and alcohol are MUSTS. Before AND After. Cleaning before makes desoldering easier especially if the work is an old keyboard.
Some solder pastes are not meant for PCBs because they are acidic and will kill PCB over time.Flux is for cleaning the board. You need an clean surface for good wetting and dirty surfaces hurts the heat transfer. The cleaner the better in my eyes.
That said I�m very un-knowledeable about many things. I thought flux was for DEsoldering? I only ever use it for desoldering because soldering rarely causes me grief. I use Chinese flux and it isn�t crappy at all so YMMV. Just desoldered a hellish Filco where every single pin was folded over and I almost can�t see any change in the flux level in my bottle. (1 drop per pin was more than enough to send the solder shooting up the wick.) As usual I had a fan blowing, but there was no nasty smell.
And yes, brush and alcohol are MUSTS. Before AND After. Cleaning before makes desoldering easier especially if the work is an old keyboard.
Technically you don't need flux if you have resin core wire. But sometimes the pad is stubborn and you need to drip the wire in flux to help the wetting. There is no real draw back to using more flux assuming you clean after yourself.
Some solder pastes are not meant for PCBs because they are acidic and will kill PCB over time.Flux is for cleaning the board. You need an clean surface for good wetting and dirty surfaces hurts the heat transfer. The cleaner the better in my eyes.
That said I�m very un-knowledeable about many things. I thought flux was for DEsoldering? I only ever use it for desoldering because soldering rarely causes me grief. I use Chinese flux and it isn�t crappy at all so YMMV. Just desoldered a hellish Filco where every single pin was folded over and I almost can�t see any change in the flux level in my bottle. (1 drop per pin was more than enough to send the solder shooting up the wick.) As usual I had a fan blowing, but there was no nasty smell.
And yes, brush and alcohol are MUSTS. Before AND After. Cleaning before makes desoldering easier especially if the work is an old keyboard.
Technically you don't need flux if you have resin core wire. But sometimes the pad is stubborn and you need to drip the wire in flux to help the wetting. There is no real draw back to using more flux assuming you clean after yourself.
I would use Isopropyl Alcohol & a Q-Tip and/or toothprush to clean the pcb itself. Flux to clean the soldering pads. I'm not an expert though, just my basic soldering experience here.. :)
My query is, is flux really good for cleaning the board? It leaves a sticky residue that forces you to clean it again later, so I prefer a minimum use of flux. Or do I have an inferior version of flux? I personally am not impressed with flux cleaner. It gets the job done but doesn’t seem to have any other purpose other than de-stickyfying the board. Seems a waste to make the board sticky and then unsticky. In contrast, alcohol needs no cleaning up after.
gootwick is one of the best afaik, my daily use.
Yes, it is very good :thumb:
MG Chemicals, Engineer, Hakko also have good wick but Goot wick is unbeatable.
I've used Goot wick but I use Hakko wick recently for no reason. It felt like flux of Hakko wick works slightly better but not sure. I didn't have any problem with Goot wick, though.
ALL freaking pins were bent by people whom I’ll call the Filco Fookers. WTF they went to the extra trouble of bending every single pin, I’ll never know.
BUT special thanks to Phoenix1234 for introducing me to the correct tool. Now I have a name to google and use. Soldering PICK? OK, great! How come you are from Vietnam and know all these English terms and I don’t? I’m gonna get that for the next time because I have other keyboards with bent pins, tytytttyytyty! (BTW don’t tell me you also get these at Sim Lim Tower?)
Are tip tinner some kind of flux like you guys talk about?
http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/spares-accessories/tip-tinner/ (http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/spares-accessories/tip-tinner/)
Are tip tinner some kind of flux like you guys talk about?
http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/spares-accessories/tip-tinner/ (http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/spares-accessories/tip-tinner/)
Usually tip cleaner is a composition of solder powder, oxide-reducing chemicals (flux) and something else so it should not be consider as flux alone.
As you can see in the advertising, after opened, it seems the product mostly has solder powder.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx-1gD60_Qg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx-1gD60_Qg)
PS:
http://www.qualitek.com/Tinner.PDF (http://www.qualitek.com/Tinner.PDF)
Oxidation-Reduction chemicals in this case is Monoammonium Phosphate
2. I currently have 63/37 .031" solder. Do I need .020"?
3. Flux. Do I need some (outside of what's in the solder)? I am not going to be soldering a controller from my understand, and I believe this is where flux is needed most.
Would it be enough so to just sink the tip of the iron in it before applying the soldering matter? I guess the flux it has would go into the soldering matter, doesn't it?
What do you think of that soldering kit guys?
http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/toolkits/xs25-toolkit/ (http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/toolkits/xs25-toolkit/)
What do you think of that soldering kit guys?
http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/toolkits/xs25-toolkit/ (http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/toolkits/xs25-toolkit/)
be careful that's not a french eletric plug :)
My query is, is flux really good for cleaning the board? It leaves a sticky residue that forces you to clean it again later, so I prefer a minimum use of flux. Or do I have an inferior version of flux? I personally am not impressed with flux cleaner. It gets the job done but doesn't seem to have any other purpose other than de-stickyfying the board. Seems a waste to make the board sticky and then unsticky. In contrast, alcohol needs no cleaning up after.
Are those yellow things LEDs? On the back of the PCB?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230916005386Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDIxWDE0NzY=/z/LYkAAOSwBahVUiQ4/$_57.JPG)
Alright thank you !
I'll keep rubbing.
I am on the Keycool numpad drop. It has white LEDs. Can I put any LED's in there as long as they're 3mm, or is there some other compatibility consideration (e.g. resistance, color) that might affect my ability to swap in different LEDs?Most 3mm LED's have a 'flange' around the bottom (small lip of plastic) that prevents you from inserting them into mx switches. You can either shave off that small lip of plastic, or you can get flangeless 3mm LEDs. You can get 3mm flangeless LEDs here (digikey) (http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/3mm-t-1-single-color-leds-flangeless/44193), or here (maxkeyboards website) (http://www.maxkeyboard.com/products/parts-and-accesssories/led-lights.html#) As far as resistance, you could swap the stock resistors for a resistor to match the particular LED, but the resistors are most likely tiny SMD resistors that will be rather difficult to solder. If you do not use the proper resistor to match the LED you might overvolt/undervolt it which might reduce the LED's lifetime. Also, if you do not use the proper resistor to match the LED, certain colors will be brighter/dimmer than others (if you use multiple colors).
What I do is buy one good roll of 63/37 for soldering and then I'll buy a large amount of the cheap 60/40 for desoldering and cleaning the tip. I also use this desoldering pump: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JFOR9G0/.That's a good idea. Where I get my soldering gear there is only a $0.05 price difference between 63/37 and 60/40 (1lb spool) so I just buy the 63/37.
These aren't kits with actual uses as such, but if you want to practice SMD/drag soldering you could look at these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400888491402?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400888491402?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381065552216?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/381065552216?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391113319830?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/391113319830?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
5 bucks or so each, contains some 0805s and a bunch of SOIC/QFP parts.
or you can buy some Prototype PCB and practice through-hole soldering with 16-20awg copper wire
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390954497575 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/390954497575)
If you are really in SMD soldering, you should follow twiddle suggestion.
For through hole soldering, I think a test board and a couple of solid core wire are good enough.
If you don't have the test board, you can do the practice on wire alone. It could be an interesting lesson.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
My PCB has the SMD presoldered so it will be only a matter of soldering the switches and sip socket. I forgot but I have a switch tester from Massdrop a while ago and it comes with a PCB. I think I'll use it to learn how to solder switches and get comfortable using my soldering gear. I'll keep your suggestions in mind when I'll have to solder SMD. ;)
My PCB has the SMD presoldered so it will be only a matter of soldering the switches and sip socket. I forgot but I have a switch tester from Massdrop a while ago and it comes with a PCB. I think I'll use it to learn how to solder switches and get comfortable using my soldering gear. I'll keep your suggestions in mind when I'll have to solder SMD. ;)
In fact, SMD / drag soldering is quite difficult if you don't have the right tools for the right jobs. So you may need to buy some soldering tips until then. Sometimes, I find myself difficult to do that even my Weller WSP80 has a lot of small tips for SMD soldering.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/maUKwYS.jpg)
Just found this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5MNLTc7YhY) on YouTube. Very useful, I wish I could buy Kapton tape easily here in Brazil.
I already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?
I already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?
0.5mm tip would be great. However, the shape of the tip is also important. If you have 0.5 round tip, you may need to solder one join at a time and it may take longer time to complete a project. Besides, round tip is not really good in heat transferring so you may face some problems like cold join.
I use a 1.2mm tip for SMD and 2.4mm tip for switches. If you use a too small tip for the switches, it won't go around the full way without you going around with the tip and leave a cold jointI already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?
0.5mm tip would be great. However, the shape of the tip is also important. If you have 0.5 round tip, you may need to solder one join at a time and it may take longer time to complete a project. Besides, round tip is not really good in heat transferring so you may face some problems like cold join.
Here is the tip in question: http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs,mlxs/b005560/ (http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs,mlxs/b005560/)
Yeah DanielT advised me a 1.0mm tip for switches and the 0.5mm for SMD. I haven't tried yet so I don't know how I feel about them yet.I use a 1.2mm tip for SMD and 2.4mm tip for switches. If you use a too small tip for the switches, it won't go around the full way without you going around with the tip and leave a cold jointI already have 1.0mm tip and 0.5mm tip. IIRC DanielT told me 0.5mm would do the job on SMD soldering jobs. What kind of tips do you have?
0.5mm tip would be great. However, the shape of the tip is also important. If you have 0.5 round tip, you may need to solder one join at a time and it may take longer time to complete a project. Besides, round tip is not really good in heat transferring so you may face some problems like cold join.
Here is the tip in question: http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs,mlxs/b005560/ (http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs,mlxs/b005560/)
All of the drag soldering that you can see in my custom controller thread in making stuff together was done with an AOYUE T-2C tip:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6cYKBGr.png)
No gull-wing but just a flat bevel cut tip. Works well for almost everything.
The solder staying within the holes and finding a way to get it out properly
Finding new pads for the LEDs
Pins breaking off the switches upon removal
Copper inserts coming out along with the switches
Does anybody have some advice for desoldering the switches off of the Filco Majestouch 2 boards?
Just found this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5MNLTc7YhY) on YouTube. Very useful, I wish I could buy Kapton tape easily here in Brazil.
would anyone help me out with finding a good (EU-plug) soldering iron? :/
initially i got the edsyn 951SX recommended because of the high price-to-quality ratio it apparently has, but the 230-version costs about $100 dollars more than the 'regular' version, and i could only find US-based sources (which adds a ton of shipping costs + import charges and in turn 'kills the deal' a bit).
anyway.. i really just want a good soldering iron with an EU plug. i was thinking of 300 as budget, but i'm not sure how realistic that is?
i certainly care about quality (reliability, longevity, features, build quality...)
it's so annoying not to be able to mod (and clean!) my keyboards
I bought some extremely thin wire, 0.12mm^2. But how the hell am I supposed to strip it...?Good stripping tools like Hozan P-963, Hozan P-967 would do the jobs.
Great, now I have to learn what American Wire Gauge is.... Someone should hold the US upside down in a toilet bowl until they gave up and just converted everything to metric... OK, looks like about 26 AWG.Google is your friend. Basically it is one gauge number different if I remember correctly.
Well, I'll check the local hardware stores. Thanks!
pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other
pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other
They're just so small and annoying.
pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other
They're just so small and annoying.
lol. What size tip are you using?
pretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other
They're just so small and annoying.
lol. What size tip are you using?
The stock standard size, it can be done though. I just wasn't using flux. That should help a bit.
Can't waitpretty easy get some flux, put it onto pads with a q tip, line up the diode to the pads, tin your iron tip and just touch one side of the pad. then do the other
They're just so small and annoying.
lol. What size tip are you using?
The stock standard size, it can be done though. I just wasn't using flux. That should help a bit.
A bit is an understatement. You'll face palm yourself so hard you'll forget what's in your hand and stab yourself with a soldering iron.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TtoWZZD.jpg)
Little tutorial on how I handle the MELF-packaged diodes with Chip-Quik tack flux:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4692574/gh/Soldering_MELF_package.mp4
You can tack a bunch of the diodes on one side, then rotate the whole board and go back along the row to do the other side (faster when you are doing more than one).
Those aren't the type I'm soldering
I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.
I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.
I really love my Hakko 888. Never tried the Weller.
I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.
I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.
I bought the Hakko 888D as a novice with no experience and just finished my first board! its a great iron, kept its heat up and was comfortable to keep going for a long time.
I'm debating between the Weller WES51 and the Hakko Digital FX888D. Not sure which one to go with. I should add that I'm relatively new to soldering work. I'm interested in swapping out switches on a board and possibly adding LEDs just as a fun project.
I really love my Hakko 888. Never tried the Weller.
I'm kind of leaning that way. Do you have the digital one?
I used a 25W iron from a scandinavian big-box chain for carparts and stuff. Cheap and functional.
Then I bought a SEEED iron from Massdrop. Holy **** was there a difference! Night and day...
Not to mention the Seed is the size of a screwdriver while the 25W was the size of a huge wrench! Very highly recommended! Reaches 300C in seconds and is adjustable from 100 to 400 in 10s.
The solder wick has been absolutely useless so far, but i'll try using some flux with it - saw that suggestion somewhere in this thread.
I'm pretty sure the solder wick is pretty good for the job. You should try with some additional flux, it should work flawlessly. Besides, please make sure you have a good one (Goot brand for example) with small size (1.5mm).
I'm pretty sure the solder wick is pretty good for the job. You should try with some additional flux, it should work flawlessly. Besides, please make sure you have a good one (Goot brand for example) with small size (1.5mm).
Yeah, i did thought that too - i imagined that solder wick would, well, -wick- away the solder. As it is, it kind of just sits on the joint, not really doing anything except making me worry that i might damage the pcb.
This looks like the solder wick i have:Show Image(http://www.adafruit.com/images/large/toolboxwick_LRG.jpg)
Hi all,
I need some advice on desoldering 4 pin RGD LEDs. I created a new thread but i suppose this is the proper place to ask.
Whats happening now is i'm able to get the blob of solder on the pad out, but the solder that is in the hole stays and refuses to budge.
(Attachment Link)
I have some solder wick, a solder pump (pictured) and a seeed mini soldering iron with a bevel tip. The solder wick has been absolutely useless so far, but i'll try using some flux with it - saw that suggestion somewhere in this thread.
As for the solder pump, i'm pretty sure its from the 90s. Works well, but has huge recoil(?) when you activate the mechanism - also, it randomly coughs out flakes of dried solder. It looks to me like the pump is too big for the job. I'm considering getting one of those solder suckers with a silicone tip.
Any advice on how to get the job done with the tools at hand would be nice!
EDIT:I used a 25W iron from a scandinavian big-box chain for carparts and stuff. Cheap and functional.
Then I bought a SEEED iron from Massdrop. Holy **** was there a difference! Night and day...
Not to mention the Seed is the size of a screwdriver while the 25W was the size of a huge wrench! Very highly recommended! Reaches 300C in seconds and is adjustable from 100 to 400 in 10s.
I second this. The SEEED iron is really impressive. Literally under 5 seconds to reach 300C. Size wise, slightly longer but comparable to a Pilot G2 pen.
Yeah, i did thought that too - i imagined that solder wick would, well, -wick- away the solder. As it is, it kind of just sits on the joint, not really doing anything except making me worry that i might damage the pcb.
This looks like the solder wick i have:Show Image(http://www.adafruit.com/images/large/toolboxwick_LRG.jpg)
Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!
Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!
I may get some crap for saying the following:
If you're not going to do a ton of soldering, I recommend one of the Hakko clone soldering stations and some extra tips.
Something like this: http://www.cmlsupply.com/aoyue-model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system/
A lot of people have a sense of elitism about things, whether it comes to Cherry clones, Hakko clones, or whatever else. Aoyues are good they just aren't the top-tier like Weller or Hakko stations are.People tend to avoid the clones when it comes to soldering gear as it can be dangerous and make it easier to ruin a PCB or when the soldering gear breaks quickly it discourages people from even trying.
Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!
I may get some crap for saying the following:
If you're not going to do a ton of soldering, I recommend one of the Hakko clone soldering stations and some extra tips.
Something like this: http://www.cmlsupply.com/aoyue-model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system/
Hey friends, I would love to desolder my Cherry MX Reds and solder in my new zealios into my FC660M, but I have no idea how to solder, what I need to buy and if I would **** it up, any advice would be nice, also unless I need to solder in my HHKB's alternate controller that I have in the mail (soon), this will likely be my only project for a long time, so I wouldn't want to spend too much on everything, I checked the first post but almost all of the links seem to be broken, except for a 300$ desoldering pump which is out of my price range. Any help would be really appreciated, links to youtube videos and amazon would be great for the materials I need assuming I have nothing, like an antistatic work mat and a way to catch the smoke from the solder. I don't think I want to spend more than 100$ on this total, or maybe I should get someone else to do it, see if it is cheaper, also I'll ask a couple people if they have soldering irons I can use, I think one of my friends does but I am not sure if it is good and it also wouldn't have a desoldering pump, right? Thanks!
I may get some crap for saying the following:
If you're not going to do a ton of soldering, I recommend one of the Hakko clone soldering stations and some extra tips.
Something like this: http://www.cmlsupply.com/aoyue-model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system/
I haven't ever tried Hakko clones. But I used a cheap iron for many years because I didn't do a ton of soldering. Then I got a Hakko, and wish I had gotten it in the beginning. Even though I didn't do much soldering, it would have made those times a ton easier. Again, maybe the clones are "good enough", I don't know.
You're not doing anything wrong, desoldering is just a lot harder than soldering. Try adding some solder and then re-de-soldering........
You're not doing anything wrong, desoldering is just a lot harder than soldering. Try adding some solder and then re-de-soldering........
Yes! If you touch hot, tinned soldering iron tip to a solder joint and it doesn't liquefy quickly, add a little new solder while you are touching the joint. This will help the older solder to melt. Seems counter intuitive, but it works.
You're not doing anything wrong, desoldering is just a lot harder than soldering. Try adding some solder and then re-de-soldering........
Why would you be slow? Just hold the sucker over the iron. Press sucker, then remove iron.
Why would you be slow? Just hold the sucker over the iron. Press sucker, then remove iron.
Wait, are you saying I should push the button on the soldersucker BEFORE getting the iron out of the way?
Why would you be slow? Just hold the sucker over the iron. Press sucker, then remove iron.
Wait, are you saying I should push the button on the soldersucker BEFORE getting the iron out of the way?
Yes, you dont even have to be right on top of the solder.
Can anyone recommend a good wearable loupe to help with smd soldering?Not really wearable, but this is what I use: http://smile.amazon.com/Brightech-LightView-SuperBright-Magnifier-Adjustable/dp/B00UW2IRJ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1447235839&sr=8-4
Can anyone recommend a good wearable loupe to help with smd soldering?
Hi all,
I need some advice on desoldering 4 pin RGD LEDs. I created a new thread but i suppose this is the proper place to ask.
Whats happening now is i'm able to get the blob of solder on the pad out, but the solder that is in the hole stays and refuses to budge.
(Attachment Link)
I have some solder wick, a solder pump (pictured) and a seeed mini soldering iron with a bevel tip. The solder wick has been absolutely useless so far, but i'll try using some flux with it - saw that suggestion somewhere in this thread.
As for the solder pump, i'm pretty sure its from the 90s. Works well, but has huge recoil(?) when you activate the mechanism - also, it randomly coughs out flakes of dried solder. It looks to me like the pump is too big for the job. I'm considering getting one of those solder suckers with a silicone tip.
Any advice on how to get the job done with the tools at hand would be nice!
EDIT:I used a 25W iron from a scandinavian big-box chain for carparts and stuff. Cheap and functional.
Then I bought a SEEED iron from Massdrop. Holy **** was there a difference! Night and day...
Not to mention the Seed is the size of a screwdriver while the 25W was the size of a huge wrench! Very highly recommended! Reaches 300C in seconds and is adjustable from 100 to 400 in 10s.
I second this. The SEEED iron is really impressive. Literally under 5 seconds to reach 300C. Size wise, slightly longer but comparable to a Pilot G2 pen.
Solder-noob here needing a little help! (Blame Zeal ;-) )
No matter what I do there's always a tiny bit of solder left holding the pins in. I've added more solder then sucked **90%** of it back off that right-arrow switch more times than I can count. The braid doesn't seem to do anything useful. I can see little spots of solder on it that its sucked up but there's always more left on the pin/pad. Can anybody see anything obvious that I'm doing wrong?
Also - I should be able to pull a single switch out of the plate after desoldering it, right? I mean, I don't have to desolder all of them before I start pulling them?
Thx
Received my Zealios on 29th Oct. Could not for the life of me desolder these darn 4 pin LEDs on a razer BW chroma.
(Attachment Link)
Bought flux, Wick, new solder, every damn thing, didn't work..
Until now!
(Attachment Link)
I had to use this, and align it vertically or there'd be some solder left in the hole.
(Attachment Link)
Can't wait til I have time for the whole board!
EDIT: I also had to run my iron at 340C, instead of my usual 300C.
Gettin mah Zeali-on!
(Attachment Link)
And they all work (so far)!!!!
(Attachment Link)
I AM A SOLDERING GOD!!!!
but that's enough for todays session ;-)
Gettin mah Zeali-on!
(Attachment Link)
And they all work (so far)!!!!
(Attachment Link)
I AM A SOLDERING GOD!!!!
but that's enough for todays session ;-)
So when the contacts are desoldered and I'm pushing the switch bottom stalk-thingy out of the pcb, should I be able to do that by hand? I'm finding they're typically a bit stiff so I'm using the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push those babies out of the pcb. I'm worried it might damage the pcb, and I'm thinking maybe I just need to do a better job with the desoldering and they'd pop out more easily?
The one GON sales is metal, and can scratch your plate if you're not careful. I think it's basically just a chip puller.
I use plastic spudgers like this to remove my switches.
http://ebay.com/itm/3X-Black-Nylon-Spudger-Set-iPod-iPhone-Cellphone-Opening-Pry-Repair-Tools-/161844840007?nav=SEARCH (http://m.ebay.com/itm/3X-Black-Nylon-Spudger-Set-iPod-iPhone-Cellphone-Opening-Pry-Repair-Tools-/161844840007?nav=SEARCH)
The one GON sales is metal, and can scratch your plate if you're not careful. I think it's basically just a chip puller.
I use plastic spudgers like this to remove my switches.
http://ebay.com/itm/3X-Black-Nylon-Spudger-Set-iPod-iPhone-Cellphone-Opening-Pry-Repair-Tools-/161844840007?nav=SEARCH (http://m.ebay.com/itm/3X-Black-Nylon-Spudger-Set-iPod-iPhone-Cellphone-Opening-Pry-Repair-Tools-/161844840007?nav=SEARCH)
Yep the GON one is metal and sends chills down my spine every time I hear it touch the plate
Gettin mah Zeali-on!
(Attachment Link)
And they all work (so far)!!!!
(Attachment Link)
I AM A SOLDERING GOD!!!!
but that's enough for todays session ;-)
So when the contacts are desoldered and I'm pushing the switch bottom stalk-thingy out of the pcb, should I be able to do that by hand? I'm finding they're typically a bit stiff so I'm using the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push those babies out of the pcb. I'm worried it might damage the pcb, and I'm thinking maybe I just need to do a better job with the desoldering and they'd pop out more easily?
Yes, but more likely you're doing it very wrong in addition.
Why the hell do you have your iron on the trace for three seconds??
That's a 73 minute video. You want to be more specific?
340-370 seems to be the range most people select. I've soldered at 300 just fine, but for desoldering it should be a little hotter.
You're linking to a section where he's using a desoldering iron, not a soldering iron by the way. That changes things. I have no experience with those, so I can't really tell what the problem is if that's what you're using.
340-370 seems to be the range most people select. I've soldered at 300 just fine, but for desoldering it should be a little hotter.
You're linking to a section where he's using a desoldering iron, not a soldering iron by the way. That changes things. I have no experience with those, so I can't really tell what the problem is if that's what you're using.
huh? you are watching the 53:12 part right? there he solders the switch into place with a soldering iron and solder, unless I'm misunderstanding something.
No, when I click it I get the beginning of the video. I told you.340-370 seems to be the range most people select. I've soldered at 300 just fine, but for desoldering it should be a little hotter.
You're linking to a section where he's using a desoldering iron, not a soldering iron by the way. That changes things. I have no experience with those, so I can't really tell what the problem is if that's what you're using.
huh? you are watching the 53:12 part right? there he solders the switch into place with a soldering iron and solder, unless I'm misunderstanding something.
What would you all recommend as the best desoldering station under $200? I'd prefer spending closer to $100 if possible.
What would you all recommend as the best desoldering station under $200? I'd prefer spending closer to $100 if possible.
I'd actually love to know as well. I used a desoldering iron with a soldapult built in, but the chamber is limited and its of poor quality. Buying a larger Edsyn solder sucker works on a single go every time fwiw. I think the main reason people have difficulty with solder suckers is that they buy the smaller/cheaper kinds with smaller chambers.
What would you all recommend as the best desoldering station under $200? I'd prefer spending closer to $100 if possible.
I'd actually love to know as well. I used a desoldering iron with a soldapult built in, but the chamber is limited and its of poor quality. Buying a larger Edsyn solder sucker works on a single go every time fwiw. I think the main reason people have difficulty with solder suckers is that they buy the smaller/cheaper kinds with smaller chambers.
I've bought suckers both expensive and cheap and they are always good for awhile until eventually they just start falling apart. Wick works well but I'm not very good at using it. I'd rather just get a nice desoldering station and stop messing about with buying a new pump every few weeks.
What would you all recommend as the best desoldering station under $200? I'd prefer spending closer to $100 if possible.
I've bought suckers both expensive and cheap and they are always good for awhile until eventually they just start falling apart. Wick works well but I'm not very good at using it. I'd rather just get a nice desoldering station and stop messing about with buying a new pump every few weeks.I think the desoldering station definitely will help us a lot in term of convenience and performance. But when it comes to dollar and cent, even on high quality desoldering station coming from Weller or PACE, their accessories will get messed and required to have replacement regularly.
Something isn't right if a Soldapult isn't working for you, they're cheap and they work great. I'm wondering if your temps are high enough for desoldering?
Something isn't right if a Soldapult isn't working for you, they're cheap and they work great. I'm wondering if your temps are high enough for desoldering?
Problem I always had with the soldapult is that it would only partially remove solder even with tons on there
Something isn't right if a Soldapult isn't working for you, they're cheap and they work great. I'm wondering if your temps are high enough for desoldering?
Problem I always had with the soldapult is that it would only partially remove solder even with tons on there
Some are obviously better than others. If you have to go the soldapult route I recommend the SS-02, it has really nice build quality and has worked perfectly through multiple boards. I find it sucks up all the solder rather well if you have a good seal with the silicon tube at the end while the tip of your solder pen is keeping the solder flowing.
Something isn't right if a Soldapult isn't working for you, they're cheap and they work great. I'm wondering if your temps are high enough for desoldering?
Problem I always had with the soldapult is that it would only partially remove solder even with tons on there
Some are obviously better than others. If you have to go the soldapult route I recommend the SS-02, it has really nice build quality and has worked perfectly through multiple boards. I find it sucks up all the solder rather well if you have a good seal with the silicon tube at the end while the tip of your solder pen is keeping the solder flowing.
If you're having trouble with a Soldapullt, it may be that yours is a fake? I bought my DS-017 directly from Edson by phoning their customer service number listed on their website. Has never failed me, although it needs to be cleaned often.
I've got one of these (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_US_Warehouse_.html), and attempting soldering for the first time on it (and the first time for me in 5ish years).
The tip is very thin, and even on maximum heat, while the base of the tip heats up just fine, the end 2mm of the tip doesn't get very hot at all.
Is the tip damaged at all? it's the only one it came with and it's the first time I've used it too.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZAHNNVo.jpg)
That's just a poor tip for high heat since it has very little surface area.
I've got one of these (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19240__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_US_Warehouse_.html), and attempting soldering for the first time on it (and the first time for me in 5ish years).
The tip is very thin, and even on maximum heat, while the base of the tip heats up just fine, the end 2mm of the tip doesn't get very hot at all.
Is the tip damaged at all? it's the only one it came with and it's the first time I've used it too.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZAHNNVo.jpg)
Can be the tip, do you have any other tip to try with?
Is there a GH recommended solder?
Is there a GH recommended solder?
Check the OP for all the info you need.
Looks like you missed the diode on the 0 key.
The diode anode on the space bar looks like it might be a cold joint. I'd reflow solder on both pads of the diode for the 1, Esc and space.
Looks like you missed the diode on the 0 key.
The diode anode on the space bar looks like it might be a cold joint. I'd reflow solder on both pads of the diode for the 1, Esc and space.
Thank you so much for your help :)
That did the trick on all the keys, however my escape key still have issues....
I think I might have screwed up the pad when I was trying to add solder to the diode...
Here is a picture of me terrible mistake
Is there anyway I can "jump" the keys? Maybe use the diode from another key... I don't know... Just any way I can fix this I guess haha
Thanks for the help :D
Looks like I need to go through and update some of the soldering iron links, specifically for edsyn. Also, I think they've stopped offering the budget special I had up so if we want to start a discussion here for the next day or so about budget level irons/stations until I get everything checked out again, I'd be up for that.
Looks like I need to go through and update some of the soldering iron links, specifically for edsyn. Also, I think they've stopped offering the budget special I had up so if we want to start a discussion here for the next day or so about budget level irons/stations until I get everything checked out again, I'd be up for that.
Not exactly what you asked, but with the number of boards coming out with SMD parts, I'd be interested in learning more about budget hot air solutions.
I recently recommended the Aoyue 2703A+ to Steezus, as he wanted something with hot air and a desoldering pump. I believe that is the station WFD used for rework. Not exactly a "budget" solution, but it's in the same range as getting a Hakko FX-888D plus an FR300 for desoldering.
The desoldering gun needs some lubrication when you first get it otherwise the chamber can get clogged. It's pretty good at desoldering however if somebody fills the pin hole up with solder and runs it all the way down then sometimes it doesn't suck it all up. That's just usually when I refill it with solder and use a hand pump to get the rest.
The desoldering gun needs some lubrication when you first get it otherwise the chamber can get clogged. It's pretty good at desoldering however if somebody fills the pin hole up with solder and runs it all the way down then sometimes it doesn't suck it all up. That's just usually when I refill it with solder and use a hand pump to get the rest.
Got any suggestions for using the desoldering gun? I just bought the Aoyue station a few days ago.
I recently recommended the Aoyue 2703A+ to Steezus, as he wanted something with hot air and a desoldering pump. I believe that is the station WFD used for rework. Not exactly a "budget" solution, but it's in the same range as getting a Hakko FX-888D plus an FR300 for desoldering.
Looks like I need to go through and update some of the soldering iron links, specifically for edsyn. Also, I think they've stopped offering the budget special I had up so if we want to start a discussion here for the next day or so about budget level irons/stations until I get everything checked out again, I'd be up for that.
Not exactly what you asked, but with the number of boards coming out with SMD parts, I'd be interested in learning more about budget hot air solutions.
Hello Soldiers !
I'm planning to build an Handwired planck and a 60% Custom with GON pcb. I've browsed some soldering stations available here in EU, and I've choosed two model that are near 100€.
One is a Hakko FX888D with digital regulation that comes with a FX-8801 with type B tip at 100€ (16€ ship)
And the other one is a Yihua 939D+ that comes with a 1 mm tip (no more description in this german amazon page) at 80€ (free ship)
Wich one should I choose ? Since the Hakko is a bit pricy, would it worth it over the Yihua.
TL;DR : Hakko FX888D vs Yihua 939d+
In advance: Thank you ! and Sorry for having poor english
I recently recommended the Aoyue 2703A+ to Steezus, as he wanted something with hot air and a desoldering pump. I believe that is the station WFD used for rework. Not exactly a "budget" solution, but it's in the same range as getting a Hakko FX-888D plus an FR300 for desoldering.
I'm really liking it so far. :thumb:
The desoldering gun needs some lubrication when you first get it otherwise the chamber can get clogged. It's pretty good at desoldering however if somebody fills the pin hole up with solder and runs it all the way down then sometimes it doesn't suck it all up. That's just usually when I refill it with solder and use a hand pump to get the rest.
My favorite part is the soldering pen with the attached fume extractor, saves a lot of brain cells. ;)
I haven't got around to using the hot air gun yet but overall I like the system as a whole.
These stations are really too much expensive, surely they would suit my use, but I think they are a bit overkill.Hello Soldiers !
I'm planning to build an Handwired planck and a 60% Custom with GON pcb. I've browsed some soldering stations available here in EU, and I've choosed two model that are near 100€.
One is a Hakko FX888D with digital regulation that comes with a FX-8801 with type B tip at 100€ (16€ ship)
And the other one is a Yihua 939D+ that comes with a 1 mm tip (no more description in this german amazon page) at 80€ (free ship)
Wich one should I choose ? Since the Hakko is a bit pricy, would it worth it over the Yihua.
TL;DR : Hakko FX888D vs Yihua 939d+
In advance: Thank you ! and Sorry for having poor english
I bought a nice Weller station, you should get something nice like a Weller, Metcal/OKI or ersa.
so... 2702A+ or 701A++ (and add hot air gun separately)?
These stations are really too much expensive, surely they would suit my use, but I think they are a bit overkill.
Finally, i'll go for an unregulated solder by Antex.
so... 2702A+ or 701A++ (and add hot air gun separately)?
I have the 701A++ and it is perfect for me. It has replaced my Hakko FX-888D since I don't really need two different digital stations. I've never had use for a hot air gun myself.
So this is a rather unconventional way to do it but I found that holding the board upside to desolder with a gun is much more effective. This way rather than gravity letting solder flow down the switch-pin hole it just flows downwards towards the gun and then 95% of the time I get all of the solder. After desoldering so many Poker 2s and Pok3rs, the factory tends to add a lot of solder to the point where it flows down the pin making it much harder to suck up. I hope that makes sense...
Edit: I don't really want to endorse it, it is more dangerous because some molten solder can drop down. Just don't have your hands directly underneath the switch that you're soldering. It's just something that I've found and will be doing myself.
So this is a rather unconventional way to do it but I found that holding the board upside to desolder with a gun is much more effective. This way rather than gravity letting solder flow down the switch-pin hole it just flows downwards towards the gun and then 95% of the time I get all of the solder. After desoldering so many Poker 2s and Pok3rs, the factory tends to add a lot of solder to the point where it flows down the pin making it much harder to suck up. I hope that makes sense...
Edit: I don't really want to endorse it, it is more dangerous because some molten solder can drop down. Just don't have your hands directly underneath the switch that you're soldering. It's just something that I've found and will be doing myself.
Lol I want to see that in action. What about getting solder I. Your eyes. Protective glasses? :p
Any advice? I'm at my wit's end. It seems like I'll have to do a wire trace, but i'm not knowledgeable enough to know where I shoulder connect the non-working ones to (especially the pads that don't seem to have a trace)
So this is a rather unconventional way to do it but I found that holding the board upside to desolder with a gun is much more effective. This way rather than gravity letting solder flow down the switch-pin hole it just flows downwards towards the gun and then 95% of the time I get all of the solder. After desoldering so many Poker 2s and Pok3rs, the factory tends to add a lot of solder to the point where it flows down the pin making it much harder to suck up. I hope that makes sense...
Edit: I don't really want to endorse it, it is more dangerous because some molten solder can drop down. Just don't have your hands directly underneath the switch that you're soldering. It's just something that I've found and will be doing myself.
That's correct.
I just bought myself a Weller WES51. I got these tips with it I was wondering which one would be best for soldering switches (I'm concerned about heat since I'm soldering zealios)? Also what is this thing which I got with the station?I do believe that 'thing' is a wrench to swap the tips out.
Chisel tip is best for medium size solder points like keyboard switches. Use conical for smaller solder points and the huge ones for really big solder points.
I just bought myself a Weller WES51. I got these tips with it I was wondering which one would be best for soldering switches (I'm concerned about heat since I'm soldering zealios)? Also what is this thing which I got with the station?I do believe that 'thing' is a wrench to swap the tips out.
I do believe that 'thing' is a wrench to swap the tips out.
One swaps the tips out by unscrewing the tip so I don't think so
The pencil magnet (or any magnet) can be used for two purposes on this iron: locking the temperature and changing the units between F/C. To lock the temperature, just tap the ESD SAFE logo with a magnet while the station is on. A little dot will light up under the Lockout label to show this. To turn off, just tap the ESD SAFE logo again. To change the units: power off the station, turn the temperature knob all the way to maximum, hold the magnet over the ESD SAFE logo, then turn the station on. The F/C dot should toggle
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tKsJSfa.jpg)
Oh god, I need help fixing my ****ups with this KUL board. Desoldered (made a mess of it though) and soldered in new Purple Zealios. Every switch worked except W, 9 and +. Desoldered those and replaced with switches I know worked, and it's still a no-go :( Even lifted the lower right solder pad on W :(
I've uploaded some photos here: http://imgur.com/a/QbICj
Any advice? I'm at my wit's end. It seems like I'll have to do a wire trace, but i'm not knowledgeable enough to know where I shoulder connect the non-working ones to (especially the pads that don't seem to have a trace)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tKsJSfa.jpg)
Oh god, I need help fixing my ****ups with this KUL board. Desoldered (made a mess of it though) and soldered in new Purple Zealios. Every switch worked except W, 9 and +. Desoldered those and replaced with switches I know worked, and it's still a no-go :( Even lifted the lower right solder pad on W :(
I've uploaded some photos here: http://imgur.com/a/QbICj
Any advice? I'm at my wit's end. It seems like I'll have to do a wire trace, but i'm not knowledgeable enough to know where I shoulder connect the non-working ones to (especially the pads that don't seem to have a trace)
are you the same dude that contacted me at reddit?
Newbie here getting materials to build my first board! Is something like the Weller WLC100 sufficient for soldering switches and LEDs etc or should I pony up and get the WES51 or the Hakko FX888? I don't wanna risk a super cheapy $20 iron and have some switches be cold.
I lowered the iron to about 325 and it hasn't happened since.
So now I have this lifted pad.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6SD8MeH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YfaI2Xx.png)
See where I've drawn the yellow line? That's the pads I thought I needed to connect, but it's not working. The pad seems to be ruined on both sides of the pcb. Please help :(
I lowered the iron to about 325 and it hasn't happened since.
So now I have this lifted pad.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6SD8MeH.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/YfaI2Xx.png)
See where I've drawn the yellow line? That's the pads I thought I needed to connect, but it's not working. The pad seems to be ruined on both sides of the pcb. Please help :(
I got a simple question. What is the different between cherry plate-mounted and pcb-mounted stabilizers? I'm planning to build a board with plate-mounted switch.
Depends on the plate, many plates only support PCB-mount stabs.
P.S Neither of them are soldered, mention this because this is being posted in the soldering thread.
What stabilizers are compatible with a setup depends on the cutouts in the plate and the PCB design. Which PCB and plate are you planning on using?
What stabilizers are compatible with a setup depends on the cutouts in the plate and the PCB design. Which PCB and plate are you planning on using?
I'm planning to use GON PCB and JDCarpe Universal60 Plate, both sold by LeandreN. After googling around, I believe PCB-mounted stabilizers are what I should buy for this right? Thanks for helping btw.
Any kind of tip works fine for switches.
Where is a good place to get Hakko tips? Also, what diameter solder? .31? .20?
One other question, is there much difference in 63/37 versus 60/40?
Thanks!
Get chisel tips or tips with large surface area on the front. Use a horse shoe tip for SMD's. Small tips are almost useless for most practical applications, heat dissipates too quickly and you end up with a cold tip, you will be there for ages.
Get some solder with multicore rosin, I swear by 63/37. Get it pretty thin, the thinner the better, significantly more control over how big your joints are. You can always put more on, but taking it off is a pain in the behind. You can go with some no name chinese brand but often the rosin isn't very good. Perhaps get a flux pen as well to help if a joint doesn't want to wick properly.
I'll just piggyback on this thread. I'd like to build my first keyboard soon, as well as possibly switch out a few switches (hehe) on my Varmilo since a few of them are acting kinda wonky. So, what's your recommendation for a soldering iron? I saw one for 40 bucks, then I saw some of the other more recommended ones in the 100 dollar range. If I was only going to be using it occasionally, would it be okay to get a cheaper one? And do you have any ideas for some keyboards I could build by myself? I saw some on massdrop but they've already come and gone. I was wondering if there were some I could just buy without a groupbuy.
Have any of you run into addiction issues with soldering? You enjoy it so much that you get a little excited when something breaks or someone asks you solder a board for them?
Desoldering -
Edsyn soldapullt III - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=DS017 OR
Universal soldapullt - http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=US140
As a suggestion, I would use this over the standard helping hands.
just put some electrical tape over the alligator clips and you're gucci. :thumb:
http://a.co/dqmmSTH
Just wanted to update that I received my new multimeter today, and I my impressions from it are largely positive. Would definitely recommend at that price. It has good reviews too in terms of accuracy (some meters have good reviews and then a bunch of bad ones because they die fairly quickly for some reason--haven't seen anything bad for this one). Just tested every resistor I've installed on a board as well as some other parameters, like continuity resistance through LED holes.
(Attachment Link)
Great for $20 or you can sometimes find it for less, like I did.
I have the Identical multimeter. I'm happy with it, but it reads high. A 120V wall outlet usually reads at about 124V. A button battery of 1.5V reads about 1.56V. Works fine but you get what you pay for. Buying a Fluke meter does not really have any value for me.
If I can solder in the missing thingie -- Where can I can one, and any guides to soldering in a diode would be great --By the look of the T4 tag on the top of the other diodes, it could easily be a 1N4148WS in a SOD323 package. A large number of manufacturers make these diodes, such NXP and BL Galaxy Electrical. You can source some on eBay.
Hi, having a soldering issue, am quite the noob @ it:
Finally assembled Mech27 using TGR Jane PCB --> realized "Q" wasn't working --> resoldered thinking it was a cold joint --> still didn't work --> used my eyeballs and saw this:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XG1c4up.jpg)
Is that a missing a missing diode? (pink circle, duh-- orange circles were to show someone else the difference :> )
What can I do to remedy this? Replacements are most likely out of the question because its been so long after the gb, I probably should have checked to see if they were all there, blah.
If I can solder in the missing thingie -- Where can I can one, and any guides to soldering in a diode would be great --
thank you kind ppls :thumb:
Hi, having a soldering issue, am quite the noob @ it:
Finally assembled Mech27 using TGR Jane PCB --> realized "Q" wasn't working --> resoldered thinking it was a cold joint --> still didn't work --> used my eyeballs and saw this:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/XG1c4up.jpg)
Is that a missing a missing diode? (pink circle, duh-- orange circles were to show someone else the difference :> )
What can I do to remedy this? Replacements are most likely out of the question because its been so long after the gb, I probably should have checked to see if they were all there, blah.
If I can solder in the missing thingie -- Where can I can one, and any guides to soldering in a diode would be great --
thank you kind ppls :thumb:
I used WhiteFireDragon's tutorial the last time I tried to solder SMD diodes.
So, what to do?What I would do is to plug the board in and short the keys pads with tweezers or anything else conductive. See if the keys register correctly, if not, you can follow the trace and solder a jumper wire to the next adjacent pad. Know that some pads might need to be soldered to the corresponding diode.
You have a problem. It is bad but not critical. You just need to make the same connections the lifted pads provided in an alternative way. E.g. a thin wire from the switch pin to the lifted trace at some place where it is not lifted any more. Just provide the connection. Make sure the connection is insulated from the thinks it is not supposed to connect (which the lifted pad/wire did not touch). Notice that the lfited pad was providing also a connection between the top a and bottom part of the PCB. If a pad is not connected to anything on one side of the PCB tan you do not need to bother with that side.
So, what to do?What I would do is to plug the board in and short the keys pads with tweezers or anything else conductive. See if the keys register correctly, if not, you can follow the trace and solder a jumper wire to the next adjacent pad. Know that some pads might need to be soldered to the corresponding diode.
So, what to do?What I would do is to plug the board in and short the keys pads with tweezers or anything else conductive. See if the keys register correctly, if not, you can follow the trace and solder a jumper wire to the next adjacent pad. Know that some pads might need to be soldered to the corresponding diode.
I have a hakko fx-888, any suggestion on a good solder tip? Right now I have the T18-D16 tip on it. Wondering what everyone who has a fx-888/d uses.