Author Topic: Rit dye and keys  (Read 196737 times)

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Offline elmwood

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #200 on: Mon, 26 January 2009, 23:59:35 »
Anyone know how well Model M keycaps will do?

Offline lal

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #201 on: Tue, 27 January 2009, 00:17:06 »
Thanks lam! Haha, looks sooo nice :)
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Offline lam47

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #202 on: Tue, 27 January 2009, 05:26:12 »
Model M caps seem to dye well.

Welcome lal
Keyboards. Happy Hacking pro 2 x2. One white one black. IBM model M US layout. SGI silicone Graphics with rubber dampened ALPS. IBM model F. ALPS apple board, I forget what it is. And some more I forget what I have.

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Offline wellington1869

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #203 on: Tue, 27 January 2009, 10:12:31 »
Quote from: lam47;19771
These ones took the dye fine.


looks great lam

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Offline bhtooefr

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #204 on: Tue, 27 January 2009, 11:47:05 »
If I get some form of ARM-based machine that takes a PS/2 keyboard, I might dye the function keys on my 1391401 red. (Even though none of the ARM-based machines that took PS/2 keyboards were BBC models, red function keys just go with an Acorn machine.)

Offline FKSSR

  • Posts: 529
Rit dye and keys
« Reply #205 on: Fri, 13 March 2009, 09:41:24 »
Did anyone ever end up dying any AT101W keys?  I'm thinking of dying some black AT101W keys completely black (so the legends are not visible - or barely visible).

I'm also having a bit of trouble deciphering the best method from this thread, but it seems like these are the basic ways to get the best results:
1.) Use an entire pack of RIT dye for each "session." (do not reuse, obviously)
2.) Do not boil water - heat to steaming (not sure about what exactly is right temp)
3.) Leave keys in until they have desired color (do not change temp)
4.) Stir keys regular and watch for any signs of melting
5.) Different keys take the dye differently

Thoughts?  Those are pretty vague, but it's what I've picked up on so far, from the thread.

Thanks!
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Offline lam47

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #206 on: Fri, 13 March 2009, 09:54:18 »
I tried the dell keys and they did not take the dye very well at all.
The key just became speckled and ugly.

Steaming will be too hot for a lot of plastics.

Its a risky business.
Try it with one key first to see if it works.
Keyboards. Happy Hacking pro 2 x2. One white one black. IBM model M US layout. SGI silicone Graphics with rubber dampened ALPS. IBM model F. ALPS apple board, I forget what it is. And some more I forget what I have.

Typewriters. Olivetti Valentine. Imperial Good Companion Model T. Olympia SM3

Offline FKSSR

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #207 on: Fri, 13 March 2009, 10:15:44 »
Okay, so, should it just be like "tap water hot?"  Water from my tap can come out super hot, so maybe it shouldn't even be that hot.

I may try the dye with one AT101W key and post the results.  I have to buy the materials first, though, so it may be a week or two.

Thanks!
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Offline lam47

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #208 on: Fri, 13 March 2009, 13:09:55 »
you can boil the kettle. let it stop bubbling and then use that water.
I would not go any hotter though.
On some plastic keys like those on the cherry keyboards tap hot water would work fine.
However with the ones on the dell you will need the water to be pretty hot.
Keyboards. Happy Hacking pro 2 x2. One white one black. IBM model M US layout. SGI silicone Graphics with rubber dampened ALPS. IBM model F. ALPS apple board, I forget what it is. And some more I forget what I have.

Typewriters. Olivetti Valentine. Imperial Good Companion Model T. Olympia SM3

Offline megarat

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #209 on: Sun, 15 March 2009, 14:07:19 »
So it was about two months ago when I promised photos of my HHKB Rit dye-job.  Life got in the way, alas.  I wasn't even able to log into GH during that time, and returning for the first time since late January, it's good to see that my Asteroids record is still standing.  :)

Anyway, behold the photos, if you wish.

I own two HHKBP2s, one which is tethered to the home computer in my home office, and another which I use with my laptop and frequently at work.  Starting off, this is my "portable" HHKB:



Please note that I couldn't obtain ideal lighting conditions, and that the camera flash is making the colors seem brighter than they actually are.  Especially the blue, which is much more sedate:  more of a metallic blue than the neon blue portrayed in the photo.

I'm very happy with how this turned out.  I wanted the red escape key, the yellow Fn key, color-indicated number keys, and color-accented modifier keys.  I didn't want too many bright colors, or even highly contrasting colors.  I.e., I wanted the keyboard to still look like a tool, rather than an eye-grabbing trinket.  I did much experimentation, and this was the best color combo I could come up with.

For reference, the colors are:

-- Esc:  "Scarlet"
-- Fn:  "Golden Yellow"
-- Modifier keys:  "Royal Blue"
-- Number keys:  "Purple"

Now brace yourself, because the next keyboard gets a little bit wacky ...



I started with the color scheme of the portable HHKB and took it a few steps further.

The primary difference:  my wife doesn't like the lack of cursor-control keys on the HHKB Pro, so I color-coded the arrow keys.  Also, the tab/delete keys have colors from previous experiments, which my wife also liked.  I'm not crazy about it, personally, but I don't hate it, and it goes without saying that I like the color scheme of my portable HHKB much better.

I did lots of swapping around of those various colors, seeing if the orange or "wine" tab/del keys worked on the portable unit, and I was never quite happy with how they looked.  They always upset the color balance and/or made it look gaudy or cheap.  (Tab and Del are the same size, on the same row, so they can be swapped.)  For instance, I had originally planned to have an orange delete key on the portable keyboard, but it just didn't look right.  My wife loved the orange key, however, and it looked better in the tab position than in the delete position, so it lives there now.

One neat thing I did:  I put more than two keys with nipples on the keyboard.  In particular, now the "a" and ";" keys have nipples, which (a) feels much more natural than just having them on "f" and "j" keys, and (b) it provides some indexing for finding the functionized arrow keys when you're using your small right finger to hold down the Fn key.  Now, using the function keys is fabulously natural.  I'm wondering why PFU didn't think of this in the first place.

(You may notice that the "F" and "J" keys on the desktop keyboard are slightly off-color from the surrounding black keys.  This is because they were white to start with, and "Rit black" dyes a white key to slightly darker than stock HHKB black.  Yeah, the discolor bugs me a little bit, but not enough to spend $80 on a new set.  I'd rather dye the rest of the black keys "Rit black" to get them even, which may happen sometime.)

In addition to the above, the new colors on this keyboard are:

-- Arrow keys:  "Teal"
-- Tab:  "Sunshine Orange"
-- Delete:  "Wine"
-- "F" and "J":  "Black"

Some things I have learned about the process (much of this has been posted already, either by myself or others, but I'm mentioning it anyway):

-- Light colors work best.  Avoid dark colors, as they all tend to approximate black, and even a nice job of "Dark Green", when juxtaposed with black keys, just doesn't look very good (IMHO).  All the dark colors look muddy together.

-- "Navy Blue" approximates HHKB black better than Rit "Black" does.  In fact, I can't tell the difference between a white key dyed with "Navy Blue" and a stock black HHKB key.

-- The dye-bath becomes more effective the longer it cooks.  Even if it gets up to temp, the first key will take <15 minutes to dye up, but the next key will take only 5 minutes.  I think the dye needs the time and heat to really get activated.  Keys dyed during this time will also be have a better and more-consistent color tone.  So I recommend that you let the dye-bath simmer for 15-20 minutes before attempting to dye your non-experimental keys.

-- The above is very important to note if you are dying more than one key in a bath simultaneously, to achieve uniform tone.  (If this is the case, remove all the keys from the bath simultaneously (e.g., dump into a strainer), rather than one at a time, as the last key removed may be noticably darker than the first.)

-- When dying a key for the first time, always experiment with a key that you don't need, if you can help it.  Additionally, always dye only one key at a time, unless you really need uniform tone (e.g., my number keys above).  E.g., if you want to dye the esc. keys on two different keyboards red, do them separately, not together.  This way, if the dying goes awry, you'll only screw up one key instead of two.  My experiments were more unsuccessful than they were successful by roughly a factor of four.  (I have an entire box of "reject keys" that I don't know what to do with.)

-- You apparently don't need to add salt, for color-fixing, but it doesn't hurt.  Salt is important for dying fabric, so the color won't come out as much in the wash.  Unless you plan on washing your keyboard with your laundry, you don't need to do this.  (This info comes courtesy of a friend who used to follow around The Grateful Dead and make a living by selling tie-dyed shirts that she made herself.  Although I should note that I used salt myself.)

-- Trying to dye the HHKB space bar will kill it.  It will melt in the middle and warp.  I don't know if this means that the space bar is of a different type of plastic than the other keys, or if its greater size makes it less resistant to heat stresses.  I suspect the latter.  If this is the case, then dying space bars of any keyboard may be problematic.

That's it for now ... if I think of any other gee-whiz facts, I'll add them later.

Home/Work:  Custom Filco FKBN87Z/EB and SGI 041-0136-001 chimera (original white ALPS, not simplified, rubber-dampened)
Gaming:  Wolfking Warrior with custom-colored layout, HHKB Lite 2 (Rubber dome)

Offline megarat

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #210 on: Sun, 15 March 2009, 14:28:07 »
So it was about two months ago when I promised photos of my HHKB Rit dye-job.  Life got in the way, alas.  I wasn't even able to log into GH for what seems like an eon, and returning for the first time since late January, it's good to see that my Asteroids record is still standing.  :)

Anyway, behold the photos, if you wish.

I own two HHKB Pro 2 keyboards:  one is tethered to the computer in my home office, and I use another with my laptop and at work (the "portable" keyboard).  Starting off, this is my "portable" HHKB:



Please note that I couldn't obtain ideal lighting conditions, and that the camera flash is making the colors seem brighter than they actually are.  Especially the blue, which is much more sedate in real life:  it's more of a metallic blue than the neon blue portrayed in the photo.

I'm very happy with how this turned out.  I think it's lovely, in fact.  I wanted the red escape key, the yellow Fn key, color-indicated number keys, and color-accented modifier keys.  I didn't want too many bright colors, or even highly contrasting colors.  I.e., I wanted the keyboard to still look like a quality, professional tool, rather than a cheap eye-grabbing trinket.  I did much experimentation, and this was the best color combo I could come up with.

(Although I'm still trying to decide whether to keep the tab key black, or swap back the blue.  I'm pretty happy with how it is, but it continues to nag at me.)

For reference, the colors are:

-- Esc:  "Scarlet"
-- Fn:  "Golden Yellow"
-- Modifier keys:  "Royal Blue"
-- Number keys:  "Purple"

Now brace yourself, because the next keyboard gets a little wacky ...



I started with the color scheme of the portable HHKB and took it a few steps further.

The primary difference:  my wife doesn't like the lack of cursor-control keys on the HHKB Pro, so I color-coded the arrow keys, to make it more palatable for her use.  Also, the tab/delete keys have colors from previous experiments, which my wife also liked.  I'm not crazy about this color scheme, although I don't hate it, and I'm happy that my wife is happy.  It goes without saying that I like the color scheme of my portable HHKB much better.

I did lots of color-swapping, seeing if various colors worked on various keyboards, especially with the orange or "wine" tab/del keys, and I was never quite happy with how they looked on the "portable" keyboard.  They always upset the color balance and/or made it look gaudy or cheap.  (Tab and Del are the same size, on the same row, so they can be swapped.)  In fact, I had originally hoped to have an orange delete key on the portable keyboard, but it just didn't look right.  My wife loved the orange key, however, and it looked better in the tab position than in the delete position, so it lives there now.

One neat thing I did:  I put more than two keys with nipples on the keyboard.  In particular, now the "a" and ";" keys have nipples, which (a) feels much more natural than just having them on "f" and "j" keys, and (b) it provides some indexing for finding the functionized arrow keys when you're using your small right finger to hold down the Fn key.  Now, using the function keys is fabulously natural.  I'm wondering why PFU didn't think of this in the first place.

(You may notice that the "F" and "J" keys on the desktop keyboard are slightly off-color from the surrounding black keys.  This is because they were white to start with, and "Rit black" dyes a white key to slightly darker than stock HHKB black.  Yeah, the discolor bugs me a little bit, but not enough to spend $80 on a new set.  I'd rather dye the rest of the black keys "Rit black" to get them even, which may happen sometime.)

(In case you're wondering, I did this so that I could have multiple nippled-keys on each keyboard.  All of the stock black nippled keys went on the "portable" keyboard, and the desktop keyboard all got dye-jobs.)

In addition to the above, the new colors on this keyboard are:

-- Arrow keys:  "Teal"
-- Tab:  "Sunshine Orange"
-- Delete:  "Wine"
-- "F" and "J":  "Black"

Some things I have learned about the process (much of this has been posted already, either by myself or others, but I'm mentioning it anyway):

-- Light colors work best.  Avoid dark colors, as they all tend to approximate black, and even a nice job of "Dark Green", when juxtaposed with black keys, just doesn't look very good (IMHO).  All the dark colors look muddy together.

-- "Navy Blue" approximates HHKB black better than Rit "Black" does.  In fact, I can't tell the difference between a white key dyed with "Navy Blue" and a stock black HHKB key.

-- The dye-bath becomes more effective the longer it cooks.  Even if it gets up to temp, the first key will take <15 minutes to dye up, but the next key will take only 5 minutes.  I think the dye needs the time and heat to really get activated.  Keys dyed during this time will also be have a better and more-consistent color tone.  So I recommend that you let the dye-bath simmer for 15-20 minutes before attempting to dye your non-experimental keys.

-- The above is very important to note if you are dying more than one key in a bath simultaneously, to achieve uniform tone.  (If this is the case, remove all the keys from the bath simultaneously (e.g., dump into a strainer), rather than one at a time, as the last key removed may be noticably darker than the first.)

-- When dying a key for the first time, always experiment with a key that you don't need, if you can help it.  Additionally, always dye only one key at a time, unless you really need uniform tone (e.g., my number keys above).  E.g., if you want to dye the esc. keys on two different keyboards red, do them separately, not together.  This way, if the dying goes awry, you'll only screw up one key instead of two.  My experiments were more unsuccessful than they were successful by roughly a factor of four.  (I have an entire box of "reject keys" that I don't know what to do with.)

-- You apparently don't need to add salt, for color-fixing, but it doesn't hurt.  Salt is important for dying fabric, so the color won't come out as much in the wash.  Unless you plan on washing your keyboard with your laundry, you don't need to do this.  (This info comes courtesy of a friend who used to follow around The Grateful Dead and make a living by selling tie-dyed shirts that she made herself.  Although I should note that I used salt myself.)

-- Trying to dye the HHKB space bar will kill it.  It will melt in the middle and warp.  I don't know if this means that the space bar is of a different type of plastic than the other keys, or if its greater size makes it less resistant to heat stresses.  I suspect the latter.  If this is the case, then dying space bars of any keyboard may be problematic.

-- With the HHKB blank key set, the modifier keys are grey, while the others are white.  Dying the grey keys works pretty well, although in most cases it does leave a slightly dirtier color.  The darker you go, the less likely you'll notice it, but then again, getting a good dark color is difficult.  

-- Keys, even if they're from the same keyboard, take the dye differently.  Maybe it's damage during the stirring process.  Maybe it's imperfections with the plastic.  I'm not sure, but some keys will come out with streaks, spots, etc. that either aren't dyed at all, or (less frequently) are dyed too darkly.  Interestingly, the flaws are more noticeable and more frequent with dyes of darker colors, which leads me to believe they may be related to the amount of time in the dye-bath.  I.e., lighter colors can have a lot of extra time to saturate the key, while darker colors need to be yanked early to keep them from going black, and the imperfections don't get the exposure they need.

-- The above is very important to mind when dying multiple numbers of keys, especially if you want them to look flawless.  When I did my number keys, I dyed all fourteen white keys from the top row, with the hope that at least ten of them would turn out fine.  At the end, nine came out flawless, three had flaws that were negligible, and two had flaws that would probably annoy me.

That's it for now ... if I think of any other gee-whiz facts, I'll add them later.

Home/Work:  Custom Filco FKBN87Z/EB and SGI 041-0136-001 chimera (original white ALPS, not simplified, rubber-dampened)
Gaming:  Wolfking Warrior with custom-colored layout, HHKB Lite 2 (Rubber dome)

Offline megarat

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #211 on: Sun, 15 March 2009, 14:44:14 »
Quote from: FKSSR;24372
Did anyone ever end up dying any AT101W keys?  I'm thinking of dying some black AT101W keys completely black (so the legends are not visible - or barely visible).

I'm also having a bit of trouble deciphering the best method from this thread, but it seems like these are the basic ways to get the best results:
1.) Use an entire pack of RIT dye for each "session." (do not reuse, obviously)
2.) Do not boil water - heat to steaming (not sure about what exactly is right temp)
3.) Leave keys in until they have desired color (do not change temp)
4.) Stir keys regular and watch for any signs of melting
5.) Different keys take the dye differently

Thoughts?  Those are pretty vague, but it's what I've picked up on so far, from the thread.

Thanks!


(1) You do not need to use an entire pack of Rit dye.  For the powder packets, I would recommend one-third per session, with maybe 20-30 ounces (0.5 - 1.0 litre) of water.  For the liquid (concentrate) bottles, you only need a few ounces with the same amount of water.

(2) Correct.  If it starts to boil, cool it back slightly.

(3) I doubt that the "do not change temp" rule is that important, at least with subtle temperature changes.  E.g., if it starts to boil, just cool it down, and you should be good.

(4) Regular stirring is great, although constant stirring is not necessary.

(5) Definitely.  In fact, different colors work differently on similar keys, and imperfections/wear/etc. on a certain key may cause it take the dye differently as other similar keys.  The process is very imperfect, and benefits from both rigor and luck.

(6) If you haven't read my last (voluminous, with purdy pictures) post, I highly recommend that you let the dye-bath simmer for 15-20 minutes before dying.  Based on my own experiments, the keys will take up the color much faster (and better) at that stage than they do at the beginning.  (This is for HHKB keys.  AT101W keys may vary.)

(7) If possible:  experiment, experiment, experiment! before putting in the actual key that you hope to dye.  Failure comes all too easy.

Home/Work:  Custom Filco FKBN87Z/EB and SGI 041-0136-001 chimera (original white ALPS, not simplified, rubber-dampened)
Gaming:  Wolfking Warrior with custom-colored layout, HHKB Lite 2 (Rubber dome)

Offline lam47

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #212 on: Mon, 16 March 2009, 10:56:22 »
Nice to see you back Megarat. Great posts too!
Good luck with this everyone.
Keyboards. Happy Hacking pro 2 x2. One white one black. IBM model M US layout. SGI silicone Graphics with rubber dampened ALPS. IBM model F. ALPS apple board, I forget what it is. And some more I forget what I have.

Typewriters. Olivetti Valentine. Imperial Good Companion Model T. Olympia SM3

Offline lam47

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #213 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 10:04:46 »
It worked for once!
Cherry caps do seem to take the dye very well.
I have not done the case yet as I could not find anything suitable to soak it in.
What do you think red as well or black for the case?

I have left the photo with no corrections so you can see the colour well.
If you look at a key on its own they dont look great but all together its pretty good.

Mmmm red.

Keyboards. Happy Hacking pro 2 x2. One white one black. IBM model M US layout. SGI silicone Graphics with rubber dampened ALPS. IBM model F. ALPS apple board, I forget what it is. And some more I forget what I have.

Typewriters. Olivetti Valentine. Imperial Good Companion Model T. Olympia SM3

Offline ozar

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #214 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 10:10:27 »
Quote from: lam47;25105
What do you think red as well or black for the case?

Just my opinion, but I think red for the case too, would be too much red.  Perhaps the black case would be better, or maybe even some shade of blue if you want bright colors.

That's a great job, though.

Offline lam47

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #215 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 10:25:04 »
My only fear with a black case would be that it might look like a BBC Acorn :)
Not sure what else goes with red?
Blue might be nice.

Cheers man.
Keyboards. Happy Hacking pro 2 x2. One white one black. IBM model M US layout. SGI silicone Graphics with rubber dampened ALPS. IBM model F. ALPS apple board, I forget what it is. And some more I forget what I have.

Typewriters. Olivetti Valentine. Imperial Good Companion Model T. Olympia SM3

Offline FKSSR

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #216 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 11:23:34 »
Nice.  I've been thinking about buying an Apple Extended II and dying the keys red and gray and the case black.  Due to the comments about the AT101s not taking the dye well, I think I'll have to give up on that idea.
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Offline lal

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #217 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 11:56:06 »
Quote from: lam47;25105

What do you think red as well or black for the case?


Red!  A black case would make it look like something that wants to be "different" but not annoy too much.  Red all the way, I say.  If you can't look at it for more than ten seconds, it's perfect ;)
BS: Customizer, Model Ms; Alps: CSK-2101, FK-2002, AT-101 (SGI & Dell), MCK-860, FKBN87Z/EB; Cherry: Poker X, FKBN87MC/EB, WY60, G80-3000, G84-4100, TDV 5010

Offline lal

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #218 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 11:57:02 »
Oh, and good job, Laurie!  I wish I had some more free time for things like that...
BS: Customizer, Model Ms; Alps: CSK-2101, FK-2002, AT-101 (SGI & Dell), MCK-860, FKBN87Z/EB; Cherry: Poker X, FKBN87MC/EB, WY60, G80-3000, G84-4100, TDV 5010

Offline FKSSR

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #219 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 12:27:42 »
I was also thinking of some kind of dark brown and red, but I'm not sure if a red case with dark brown keys would look better or vice versa.
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Offline wheel83

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #220 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 14:58:46 »
nice job laurie.  i would say black casing would look sweet.  although as is, is not too shabby.
I <3 BS

Offline FKSSR

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #221 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 15:14:51 »
Here's what I'm thinking for an Apple Extended II...

Basically, I'm going off the same coloring scheme as the M,
Except the AEKII case will be dark brown (hopefully kind of "woody" looking), the keys that are white on the M will be black on the AEKII, and the keys that are gray on the M will be a dark scarlet red on the AEKII.

Thoughts?


The other option is just all black - keys and case... :)
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Offline bhtooefr

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #222 on: Mon, 23 March 2009, 20:07:06 »
Hrm. Now I need to decide what keyboard I'm gonna use with a RiscPC (I think I'm pretty close to buying one now,) and dye its function keys red. Just for the BBC Micro look. :p

(It might be the Fujitsu, although I'm missing the F11 key on that.)

Offline megarat

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #223 on: Tue, 24 March 2009, 01:33:24 »
Hey Laurie,

For my $0.02, I would be extremely careful when dying the case.  It may not be the same type of plastic as the keys and deform from the heat.

And even if it is the same type of plastic, it may not hold up anyway.  When experimenting with the HHKB keys, the space bar crumpled when in the dyebath, and it was the same type of plastic (and at the same temperature) as everything else.  My personal suspicion is that the larger pieces deform more easily.

That said, I would highly recommend a reddish-brown for the case's color.  :)  It would match the wrist-rest and complement the keys.

Home/Work:  Custom Filco FKBN87Z/EB and SGI 041-0136-001 chimera (original white ALPS, not simplified, rubber-dampened)
Gaming:  Wolfking Warrior with custom-colored layout, HHKB Lite 2 (Rubber dome)

Offline megarat

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #224 on: Sun, 29 March 2009, 19:27:08 »
If anyone is interested, I just posted in the Marketplace forum my Box O' Rejects.  These are the keys I didn't use, largely because they were first-time experiments with colors, and some turned out very well, while others turned out pretty grim.  If you want any/all of these, PM me and we can work it out.

Also, now that I think I'm pretty set on the color schemes for my HHKBs, I still have some white/grey keys that I can custom-dye for others, if anyone is interested.  I no longer have undyed keys for the top row (sorry, no red escape keys ... although I can get you a lovely purple escape key from the reject box if you want it).  The remaining home-row keys are nipple-less.  The rest of the keyboard, however, is fair game.

The colors I have, that I would recommend, are:

-- Scarlet
-- Sunshine Orange
-- Golden Yellow
-- Purple
-- Teal
-- Wine
-- Royale Blue
-- Evening Blue

PM me if you're interested.  This could be fun.

(Since it takes 30-60 minutes to cook up a dye-job, I may charge a reasonable amount for my time, but I'm not doing this to profiteer.)

Home/Work:  Custom Filco FKBN87Z/EB and SGI 041-0136-001 chimera (original white ALPS, not simplified, rubber-dampened)
Gaming:  Wolfking Warrior with custom-colored layout, HHKB Lite 2 (Rubber dome)

Offline Hak Foo

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #225 on: Sun, 28 June 2009, 00:46:27 »
Did anyone try dying Unicomp "metallic grey" keys?

I could see using a dark grey dying to kill the sparkle.
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline megarat

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #226 on: Mon, 29 June 2009, 12:02:02 »
Quote from: Hak Foo;99723
Did anyone try dying Unicomp "metallic grey" keys?

I could see using a dark grey dying to kill the sparkle.


I haven't tried this, but I have some spare Unicomp greys that I can experiment with.  If time allows, I'll give it a try.

Home/Work:  Custom Filco FKBN87Z/EB and SGI 041-0136-001 chimera (original white ALPS, not simplified, rubber-dampened)
Gaming:  Wolfking Warrior with custom-colored layout, HHKB Lite 2 (Rubber dome)

Offline LEXX911

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #227 on: Fri, 07 August 2009, 23:16:00 »
Hello.  I'm new to this site and pretty glad that I found out about it.  Managed to pick up an IBM Model M for $20.  It's missing F7, F8 and CTRL key cap.




Decided to try Rit Dye on it.  Navel blue didn't turn out that well so decided to leave it in and let it become black that way it will also eliminate the white letterings.  Spray painted the board with Dupli-Color Vinyl and Fabric(glossy white).  Couldn't find any other color.  Was thinking going black or yellowish orange but they didn't have any.  Decided to go white because I already have a cheap $10 black keyboard and is ordering the Steelseries 7G.

Not sure what to do with the other lettering but thinking going somewhere between Yellow or Red orange.




My goodness.  Rit dyeing is a dirty job!  YOu have to be very very careful with the dye especially the dark one.
« Last Edit: Fri, 07 August 2009, 23:28:16 by LEXX911 »

Offline Stevie Wonder

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #228 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 00:32:27 »
Has anyone tried dying a case yet??

Offline rdjack21

  • Posts: 896
Rit dye and keys
« Reply #229 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 01:24:16 »
First off welcome to Geekhack!

Second nice job. I like it.
Keyboards
Topre Capacitive: Realforce 87U, Realforce 86U, HHKB Pro 2, Topre MD01B0, Topre HE0100, Sun Short Type, OEM NEO CS (x2), NISSHO Electronics KB106DE
Buckling Spring: IBM Model M Space Saver (1291472), Unicomp Customizer x 2
Cherry Brown: Filco FKBN87M/EB, Compaq MX11800
Black Alps: ABS M1
Not so great boards Rare Spring over dome OKI, Sun rack keyboard

Trackballs - Trackman Wheel (3), Trackman marble (2)
Keyboards I still want to get - Happy Hacking Keyboard Pro 2 the White version, Realforce 23U number pad in black and maybe white, μTRON ergo board with Topre switches.
Previously owned - [size=0]SiiG MiniTouch (White Alps), Scorpius M10 (Blue Cherry), IBM Model M13[/size]

Offline LEXX911

  • Posts: 11
Rit dye and keys
« Reply #230 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 01:40:57 »
Thank You!

I did a photoshop of the red that I'm going to use.  Oh boy. It's going to look like a Nintendo keyboard. LOL!


Offline LEXX911

  • Posts: 11
Rit dye and keys
« Reply #231 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 01:59:24 »
Quote from: ripster;108134
How come the navy blue didn't work out?

I wished I had a second chance to do this over again.  The IBM Model Keyboard are fantastic with Rit Dye and absorb them pretty quickly, evenly and nicely.  The problem with the Naval blue is that you either end up with an ugly light color or a dark color(pretty much almost black).  So the timing was pretty hard trying to get what you want.  So I end up going black since the naval blue look a bit purplish blue which I didn't like.

I don't think I like the white.  I might turn it black.
« Last Edit: Sat, 08 August 2009, 02:18:39 by LEXX911 »

Offline iMav

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #232 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 04:22:18 »
If you read the early posts by me here, you'll see I mentioned that the darker blue dies the keys prery much black.

Stick with lighter colors and soak them longer for darker appearance.

Offline o2dazone

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #233 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 12:30:43 »
imo




Offline JulienC

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #234 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 17:19:20 »
Quote from: Chloe;76479
For reference, melting point of ABS is 105?C, PBT is 221?C.


Also keep in mind that adding salt to the water will rise its boiling temperature, so simply keeping the water from boiling might not suffice to avoid melting your ABS keys.
________
Problems From Wellbutrin
« Last Edit: Sat, 16 April 2011, 13:39:23 by JulienC »

HHKB

Offline LEXX911

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #235 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 18:02:19 »
Quote from: o2dazone;108226
imo

Show Image


Show Image


Too late. I've already dye it last night.  I'm planning on spray painting the board black.

Will have to wait since my new toy Steelseries 7G has arrived!

Offline sool9175

  • Formerly dcozart
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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #236 on: Sat, 08 August 2009, 23:00:47 »
I have attempted to dye two IBM Model M cases to a black color, and in both attempts the cases severely warped before the dyd color absorbed much at all.

In the second attempt, I spent about a day slowly raising the water temperature. In the end, the second case warped with minimal dye absorbed.

In contrast, I have successfully dyed Model M keycaps to black and red.

I would strongly discourage any attempt to Rit dye an IBM Model M case.

Offline LEXX911

  • Posts: 11
Rit dye and keys
« Reply #237 on: Sun, 09 August 2009, 00:19:59 »
Quote from: dcozart;108347
I have attempted to dye two IBM Model M cases to a black color, and in both attempts the cases severely warped before the dyd color absorbed much at all.

In the second attempt, I spent about a day slowly raising the water temperature. In the end, the second case warped with minimal dye absorbed.

In contrast, I have successfully dyed Model M keycaps to black and red.

I would strongly discourage any attempt to Rit dye an IBM Model M case.

You can't really dye those case with normal household items.  It just too thick and you have a major problem because there are thick and thin parts.

I don't think putting a case onto a large tray on the stove is the way to do it.  Because heat distribute unevenly and the heat is too close to the stove.  I think a better way is to pour hot water on the tray with the dye and place the case onto the tray and push the tray into the oven on proper temp.  The better solution would be to avoid the case from touching the hot tray.
« Last Edit: Sun, 09 August 2009, 00:23:41 by LEXX911 »

Offline pfink

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #238 on: Sun, 09 August 2009, 13:51:20 »
Quote from: ripster;108168
Has anyone tried dying the entire IBM Model M case yet?

I haven't tried RIT Dye yet but I used flat black Dupli-Color Vinyl and Fabric Coating on one of my Model M Space Savers last week and it came out great. Unlike regular spray paint any overspraying gets absorbed back into the plastic rather than glooping up on the surface. The color and texture ended up looking very similar to the black Unicomp cases.

Here are a couple pics:







« Last Edit: Sun, 09 August 2009, 16:34:56 by pfink »

Offline o2dazone

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #239 on: Sun, 09 August 2009, 18:57:42 »
flat black is lovely

Offline pfink

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #240 on: Sun, 09 August 2009, 20:24:18 »
Quote from: webwit;108507
Very nice. Perhaps the best case paint job I've seen.


Thanks. I posted details here:

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6759

Offline Hak Foo

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #241 on: Mon, 10 August 2009, 22:58:49 »
I stripped my Customizer 104 today and tried to dye the keys.

I used one packet of scarlet Rit in about 2 litres of water (a small tin roasting pan).  I also threw in a Lexmark M key for comparison (in case it's the Unicomp plastic).  About 1 litre of water was boiling, and 1 litre "warm tap" to prevent meltage.

It didn't take well at all.  After about an hour and a half, there's only minor discolouration (makes the "salmon" keys look tinted).

Currently typing on my '87 1391401, and finding it's a bit too silent for my taste.  I need to make a sounding box.
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline rdjack21

  • Posts: 896
Rit dye and keys
« Reply #242 on: Mon, 10 August 2009, 23:50:42 »
Yea the job Megarat did on the HHKB I got from him is just great.
Keyboards
Topre Capacitive: Realforce 87U, Realforce 86U, HHKB Pro 2, Topre MD01B0, Topre HE0100, Sun Short Type, OEM NEO CS (x2), NISSHO Electronics KB106DE
Buckling Spring: IBM Model M Space Saver (1291472), Unicomp Customizer x 2
Cherry Brown: Filco FKBN87M/EB, Compaq MX11800
Black Alps: ABS M1
Not so great boards Rare Spring over dome OKI, Sun rack keyboard

Trackballs - Trackman Wheel (3), Trackman marble (2)
Keyboards I still want to get - Happy Hacking Keyboard Pro 2 the White version, Realforce 23U number pad in black and maybe white, μTRON ergo board with Topre switches.
Previously owned - [size=0]SiiG MiniTouch (White Alps), Scorpius M10 (Blue Cherry), IBM Model M13[/size]

Offline Hak Foo

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #243 on: Mon, 10 August 2009, 23:58:28 »
Quote from: ripster;108794
I did oven tests on the M and Unicomp keys and they can take up to 100 deg C it appears.  I think they are ABS (as well as the Topres) and the Filco/Logitech keys are polystyrene or PVC.

So I think you need to do it at higher temps - the warm tap water probably brought it down too low.

Megarat and Laurie appear to be the current experts on this whole thing.


Where do you get 100C? It looks like every key deformed by like 90C.
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline Hak Foo

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #244 on: Tue, 11 August 2009, 23:06:19 »
Okay, what worked okay:

* Start with near-boiling water.  Stir and sit for about an hour-- light take

* Cook on stove-top, steam-but-not-boil-- for about 25 minutes-- deep, rusty red.

The UniCrud picked up no dye whatsoever.

Strangely, a Lexmark F12 key (I added for testing), turned orange more than red.
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline Hak Foo

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #245 on: Wed, 12 August 2009, 00:12:15 »
The 104 of them were.  (aside:  On the 2009 Customizer, the Tab and Control keys were two-part).  One white Lexmark for comparison.

I wonder if these dyed keys will lead to finger cancer.
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline keyb_gr

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #246 on: Wed, 12 August 2009, 05:50:56 »
Quote from: ripster;108794
I did oven tests on the M and Unicomp keys and they can take up to 100 deg C it appears.  I think they are ABS (as well as the Topres) and the Filco/Logitech keys are polystyrene or PVC.

There's no way the regular keys on a Model M could be ABS... they'd wear shiny fairly quickly, as seen on the space bar (which also happens to be the only key susceptible to yellowing).
Hardware in signatures clutters Google search results. There should be a field in the profile for that (again).

This message was probably typed on a vintage G80-3000 with blues. Double-shots, baby. :D

Offline Hak Foo

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #247 on: Wed, 12 August 2009, 22:16:07 »
Typing on the newly-reddned Customizer now.


The metal-speck look remains slightly, but overall solid.  Sadly, F4 disappeared somewhere in the process.  I took the cap from the spare two-part key I dyed for now.

I took my red Lexmark F12 to work and slapped it on my 1391401 there, but nobody noticed.  :(
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline wellington1869

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #248 on: Wed, 12 August 2009, 22:21:41 »
thats like a whole keyboard made out of red escape keys

"Blah blah blah grade school blah blah blah IBM PS/2s blah blah blah I like Model Ms." -- Kishy

using: ms 7000/Das 3

Offline Hak Foo

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Rit dye and keys
« Reply #249 on: Wed, 12 August 2009, 22:29:28 »
Sort of overkill

Ripster-- I fear it went down the drain in an early dye attempt.  I just left the Customizer apart while I re-dyed.
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.