Soldering assistance - how to fix burnt solder pad?

[Shrub]

Hey all,

I was wondering if you could help me out of a tricky situation. I'm a novice @ soldering and in my haste ended up burning a solder pad (at least I think so). I wasn't aware of the potential to burn the metal contacts off on the pad. This is a cheap MagicForce 68 and was the reason I threw caution to the winds a bit, I'm soldering in Kailh Bronzes.

All the switches I've soldered, work aside from the spacebar and letters 1 and 5.

My plan of action after reading up on Geekhack was to unsolder the switch, and see if the switch will register using a pair of tweezers, my hopes aren't high considering there is no metal contact on both sides of the PCB (I think I burnt both off).

Here's a picture of my PCB (half the switches here are stock and half replaced) https://imgur.com/mjJcRM7 and more specifically a closeup of my damaged Spacebar key https://imgur.com/kUcXn2k. I believe its the leftmost solder blob/pad that is stripped of its contact but could be both since the right one is partially damaged.


How should I proceed? I read here that it's possible to solder to adjacent switches with some wire or something. I feel that might be within my capabilities.




Or is there another way I should go about this?


Kind regards.

[metalliqaz]

You can't burn them away.  If you damaged them during desoldering, then you would see them come off, and usually they stay connected to the traces on the board, so they are just sorta flopping around.

It's a good thing you started with a cheap board because you clearly undertook this project without any training.  It appears that every switch you did is a cold solder joint.  Soldering properly means properly using heat and avoiding oxidation.  Both surfaces have to be hot so the molten solder sticks to it, and solder must be protected from oxidation using flux.  If you aren't using flux-core solder, then you have to add it yourself, and if you are reflowing solder you have to add it yourself.  Finally, it's important to use only as much solder as you need, no more and no less.

This is not a good place to learn soldering 101.  Perhaps search YouTube for an in-depth tutorial.

[Shrub]

Thanks, I really should have a bit more patience before I jump right in. Otherwise bad things happen.

[aspenc4]

Eevblog has a great three part series (roughly an hour and a half or so in total) that covers pretty much everything you would need to know about technique, tools etc. You’ll learn a lot from watching -

Check it out when you have some time. You’ll have a great foundation to go off of when you finish.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JWK]

If this is a 2-layer board, the trace should still be there -- even if the pad at the pin delaminated and got yanked off.  If this is the case, you can remove the colored solder mask from the trace by gently(!) scraping it with an Exacto knife.  Then tin the trace and run a lead to the pin with some very fine wire.

If the board had 3 or more layers, and the pad is connected to an internal layer, then you can repair by: 1) remove solder from the pin with solder wick, 2) use wire-wrap wire, or similar thin insulated wire to replace the trace -- wrap the wire around the component pin and solder -- figure out where the trace goes inside the board and run the wire over to that component pin -- then secure the wire down to the board with epoxy.

A good solder joint should not look blobby -- it should look wet. 

[Shrub]

Thanks everyone.

Trouble is, my board doesn't seem to have diodes (visible ones) so I'm not sure which pin to wire to.
https://imgur.com/a/Sv4GC