Who among us actually uses his Leading Edge DC-2014 as opposed to putting it into a coma and harvesting its blue Alps switches?
I've several reasons for asking. The layout is actually not that bad, especially if you are inclined, as I am, to remap it to a semblance of a HHKB layout. For this, the Print Screen key is ideally placed as the Fn key, Right Ctrl is already where it belongs, and the oversized Right Bracket serves as Backspace. For remapping, I am using Orihalcon's internal Soarer's Converter, and I installed a flush-mount micro-USB connector in the rear of the bottom part of the case.
Unfortunately, the backward L Return key ruins it for me. I tend to hit the Return on the left edge, but I find that the Return key binds somewhat unless it is hit in the center of the lower part. This board could work beautifully if it only had a standard ANSI Return, and if it had that, the Right Bracket could be reduced to 1.00 unit and there would be room for the usual Backslash, which I would then use as Backspace.
Of course, I am essentially asking for a standard US ANSI layout, and I might as well get the bad switches working in my LE DC-3014. However, I do like the form factor of the DC-2014, and its acoustics are better than those of the DC-3014. The DC-2014 chassis imparts a Topre-like "thock" to some of the keys -- especially the Backspace (which I have remapped as Backslash).
On the other hand, although the doubleshot ABS caps on the DC-2014 are very nice indeed, I prefer the feel of PBT. I could replace all the alphas with PBT except the oversized Right Bracket (which I've remapped as Backspace -- and I use this a lot!), but the mods would need to stay native because of the unique layout.
I've made a couple of other modifications, including swapping out the slider and click leaf on the Spacebar switch for the same parts from a Matias Quiet switch. I also put some foam pads on the top plate where the Spacebar stabilizer inserts hit the plate. This calms and quiets the Spacebar immensely.
My other revisions included painting the bottom half of the case a graphite color using SEM Color Coat and painting the top shell a deep blue using VHT vinyl dye. I decided to experiment with this case, because I botched the job removing the Leading Edge logo badge. Fortunately, Wingpad has come to the rescue and will be sending me a spare case with an intact logo. Now I have had the opportunity to try three types of paints and four different colors on plastic keyboard cases. The VHT product bills itself as a penetrating vinyl dye, but I've already managed to scratch it (luckily on the back, which is normally hidden from view). The SEM paint had a slight tendency to run, and the coverage looked a bit uneven. I got the best results with Dupli-Color vinyl & fabric spray.
One other thing I noticed -- I use an Iogear KM switch as part of my method for sharing keyboards among computers. When I switched it momentarily to an empty port while ensuring that all the caps were seated properly on the DC-2014, when I switched back to the active computer, none of the keys would register. I tried connecting and reconnecting to no avail. I finally had to reboot to get the keyboard to register. I suppose this could be a problem at various points -- the keyboard, the internal Soarer's Converter, the KM switch, or the USB hub.
Future options I'm considering include transplanting blue Alps into a standard US ANSI chassis, such as a Northgate Omnikey 101, top- modding the white Alps in a Northgate Omnikey 101 to orange Alps (what combination of slider, leaf, and spring would be best here?), and doing a custom build 60% with blue or orange Alps.
Yes, I know -- first world problems! Nevertheless, suggestions welcome!