GELO : my first custom 50% keyboard

[philipVick]

After years of programming, I discovered only four months ago the magic kingdom of the mechanical keyboard. I bought a wonderful Ergodox, made by profet23 and I enjoy every second on it.
I spent one week in learning how to type on a ortholinear, splitted keyboard and I spent the following next months in understanding what is the best configuration: the programmer keys should be easy to reach, but many keys are impossible to reach comfortably, so I delegated to fancy actions (mute my mic, take a screenshot, etc.., Shift+Enter )

I came to the following conclusions:
1)Ortholinear is fantastic. It is definitely more natural then the twisted normal keyboard.
2)I don't need all these keys (76 .. )
3)If the index finger is the strongest finger and the pinky is the weak one, why the hell the pinky is supposed to tap on 12 keys ("'","\","[","]","=",";","p","-","/",shift,enter,backspace) and the finger on only 6? (I am referring to a regular 88 keyboard)?

I travel a lots and unfortunately, the ErgoDox is not so small and not very practical for small tables. I started to look around for 40,50% ortholinear keyboard, but I  couldn't find the right one for me. More over, for almost all of these keyboards, I need to learn to solder. So I told myself, why not design a new custom keyboard.
I started to read every possible topics, seen videos, spotted for ideas (Matt3o is amazing) n
This is my first presentable keyboard layout: GELO


I have been thinking for about a month, what is my minimal key set required and this is my "alpha" version. Here some comments:

• I really liked the idea of the Ergodox of having central keys: they are not superconfortable to reach, but the index finger is doing this job.
• The two command buttons are at the side, because with one hand I can reach all Command+keys (if the other one is using the mouse).
• I have still 4 unused keys (super, S1,S2,S3).
• GELO is beautifully symmetrical, but it can be a pain for finding new keyset. Maybe I can break the simmetry and use more regular keys (1.25, 1.5, 2. ,2.5). I still have to investigate what should be the results with alphanumeric+classic modifiers
• Not even sure if 8 keys 1.5x 1 are too many, maybe 4 keys 1.5 and  4 keys 1.25.[\li]
  

My next step are the microcontroller (arduino vs Teensy) and possibly a blue tooth connection. Do you think is feasible for a "portable" keyboard? I read that it can take a lot of space and I don't know if it is a good idea to have 5 cm width keyboard.

I am sure I am doing something wrong. 
I need feedbacks and recommendations.

[Phenix]

Are you doing a pcb?
If so please:
make those mid keys split-able
-more bottom row options (also 1. 25u mods, more possible places for space).

for bluetooth: maybe some kind of extention, holda with an magnet, and goes straight into the usb socket..

[philipVick]

Are you doing a pcb?
If so please:
make those mid keys split-able
-more bottom row options (also 1. 25u mods, more possible places for space).

for bluetooth: maybe some kind of extention, holda with an magnet, and goes straight into the usb socket..

I am definitely new to the keyboard and my first version will be hand made soldered. I though about splitting up the key board and I haven't found a nice proper solution, other than the Ergodox mini jack cable.  PCB will be my next step.

[dusan]

The physical layout. The layout is very nice and no doubt it will fit you. Question is if it fits _me_ and _others_ too. I'm familiar with typing on ortho-linear layout so I think I can learn to use your layout. But I would be happy with one row more (the number row) so that I don't have to learn. I've spent much time learning to type numbers and punctuation on a standard keyboard and I will not learn them again. Furthermore, for some of languages I speak (and write), a number row is a must.

And if I'd design for the mass I would likely to come up with 1 - 2 rows more (for the F1-F12 keys, navigation keys and editing keys such as Insert etc). I was a coder for a fair part of my life, so I can be comfortable with keyboards without these, but I guess many users can't.

The logical layout. I would be happier if

1. Backspace is put under the right thumb -- i.e. the position of Enter. Note: I'm left handed who presses Space-bar with the left thumb exclusively;

2. There is a right-hand Shift key at the symmetrical position to the left-hand Shift key -- i.e. the position of Delete;

3. Similarly, there are right-hand Ctrl and right-hand Alt.

Finally, as an ex-coder, I would assign the key ] for something else. Can't remember the last time I have to type it.

[Data]

This project feels very personal, so I'd say keep on doing what you're doing and make the best keyboard for yourself first.  If others happen to like what you're doing then you can release your files or organize a group buy later.  There are 7 billion of us on the planet so your design is bound to resonate with a few.

It looks very functional and I can see how you were inspired by the ErgoDox.  You're missing a backslash key so that's one thing you might consider for your remaining open keys on the right side.  Actually -- if it were me, I'd move the single quote ['] key down to the bottom row and throw the backslash [\] key back under the backspace along the right edge since that's already a 1.5u key cap in any standard cap set, so it's a no-brainer for this layout.  But do what feels best for you.

[chuckdee]

This project feels very personal, so I'd say keep on doing what you're doing and make the best keyboard for yourself first.  If others happen to like what you're doing then you can release your files or organize a group buy later.  There are 7 billion of us on the planet so your design is bound to resonate with a few.

This is very good advice, IMO.

[philipVick]

This project will be share and it will be completely open.
Yes, the designed is based on my experience, but since I will use a Teensy microcontroller, the keyboard is entirely programmable.
I need to print the plate and try out a first hand made prototype. The key position is completely personal, but amongs are things it is something that it can be change any time (even after soldering)

I am not completely convinced if it is worth to splitting into two parts.
I am thinking also to add an USB HUB for my convenience. I use a lot USB devices that should be sporadically connect to my computer and USB, at the right side of GELO can be very useful.

This project is at very early stage, but I want to have some feedback before going into prototype phase.

[philipVick]

I created the plate and the case, using the site http://builder.swillkb.com.


Anyone can tell me what is the optimal size for mount holes and padding?
I choose for the moment 6 holes with 5 mm diamater and 7 mm edge width (too small?) and edge padding 7 mm.

[philipVick]

After 12 months, 3 nations (France, Italy and Argentina), I built and completed my first home-made keyboard.
I still have some problems with double clicking for certain keys, but at least it is working right now..

[wolf]

Congratulations on getting it done.  I can well relate to how long it can take, and if it suits your needs, then you've got a winner.

It looks quite awesome.

[Denisgsv]

it does look great :O

What do you mean double clicking ? for certain keys you need to do that ?

[stoic-lemon]

Congrats on making this a reality. Feel free to share more pics and any advice you have for those of us still in the dreaming stage.

[philipVick]

it does look great :O

What do you mean double clicking ? for certain keys you need to do that ?

I used the wrong word. I am experiencing  that some keys are registering twice when they are pressed. For example, for the letter E, I typed the key and it can happen randomly these three scenarios: "e", "ee", or nothing.
Since I am new to the DIY , I tough that the problem was the bad soldering. I resoldered the connection to the switch (gateron brown), but really didn't change a thing.
Now I don't know if the problem is physical (the switch is faulty, the soldered connections at the switch are bad, or at the teensy) or it is a code problem (I use qmk)

[philipVick]

I think at this point it is worth to share my entire experience with my keyboard:
1) Keyboard design: after I realized I needed something really custom and I started to designed my keyboard with http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com. I think everyone on geekhack used this wonderful and very user-friendly site to design a keyboard. I read tons of threads on how to design a keyboard and very interesting stories.

2.A)Plates: the plate is quite complicated and stressful because basically you have one shot (100$ shot). Because of my constant moving between two continents, I needed to find something reliable for shipping and I found out that vectorealism is a very good italian small business. (https://www.vectorealism.com). For the plate, I chose a stainless steel (not very ideal because of the weight), but the results were really amazing.
During this phase, I had two issues: the mount holes diameter  (I choose 5 mm, but it is to big) and how to optimize the half squared meters of stainless steel to get more plate as possible.
At the end of the story, I decided to order just plates and one bottom (plate and bottom for my GELO, plate for one PLANK and a plate for numeric keypad)

2.B) Hardware: I choose the fairly standard hardware items: I bought a solder (GOCHANGE 220V Soldering Iron Electrique Réglable), a multimeter (Etekcity Multimètre Numérique Portable Professionnel), a teensy 2.0, 150 diodes (1N4148) , 100 ft of wire and for switches, Gateron Brown.

3) Build my GELO: It was my first time that I soldered anything and I started with my GELO. I took me a while to understand the technique, but now I am comfortable soldering. Matt3o's notes are fantastic (https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/brownfox-step-by-step-t6050.html) and so everything went smooth

until I started to solder the micro-controllers. My initial mistake was to solder all the wires to the keyboards and then try to connect them to the teensy. Very rookie mistake. Here the horror I made

4)Firmwire: Oh boy. That was tough. I download the qmk and started to code from the scratch following the hand-wire instruction. I was never able to produce a working hex file. I got tons of error messages and after two weeks I gave up.. I was desperate because I couldn't figure my bugs out: I decided that it was not worth to reinvent the wheel and I took the config files (config.h, gelo.h, gelo.c, keymap.c) from an existing project (I believe it was minorca) and modified consequently. In less than 60 minutes, my GELO was finally working.


END OF THE STORY:
My GELO was working, but it was far from being finished: the keymap wasn't completed and fully functional, the teensy connection was a mess such that I couldn't really close the keyboard with my bottom plate and the wires started to unsoldered by them self.  I lived in Paris in a very small apartment and I didn't have really the space to solve all these problems, mainly because I moved to Argentina, so I packed all my stuff in boxes and I opened it only four months later.
Last week, I decided that it was a good time to continue my project and I desoldered the teensy and made some clean (??) work on my keyboard

As I was saying I still have some problem of registering twice some caps and the bottom plate is not yet ready to be used, but the keymap is done. (and I bought the amazing Star Wars XDA from keyclack).

[Denisgsv]

it does look great :O

What do you mean double clicking ? for certain keys you need to do that ?

I used the wrong word. I am experiencing  that some keys are registering twice when they are pressed. For example, for the letter E, I typed the key and it can happen randomly these three scenarios: "e", "ee", or nothing.
Since I am new to the DIY , I tough that the problem was the bad soldering. I resoldered the connection to the switch (gateron brown), but really didn't change a thing.
Now I don't know if the problem is physical (the switch is faulty, the soldered connections at the switch are bad, or at the teensy) or it is a code problem (I use qmk)

oh i see that is called key chatter or key bounce, most of the times changing the switch solves the problem

[philipVick]

it does look great :O

What do you mean double clicking ? for certain keys you need to do that ?

I used the wrong word. I am experiencing  that some keys are registering twice when they are pressed. For example, for the letter E, I typed the key and it can happen randomly these three scenarios: "e", "ee", or nothing.
Since I am new to the DIY , I tough that the problem was the bad soldering. I resoldered the connection to the switch (gateron brown), but really didn't change a thing.
Now I don't know if the problem is physical (the switch is faulty, the soldered connections at the switch are bad, or at the teensy) or it is a code problem (I use qmk)

oh i see that is called key chatter or key bounce, most of the times changing the switch solves the problem

Thank you very much.. I will do it as soon I received the new batch of switches

[wolf]

I concur with Denisgsv, the fact that the doubling (and non-typing)  of letters is intermittent, suggests more a hardware issue than firmware and, since you've already checked your soldering, that pretty much only leaves the switch itself.

[Denisgsv]

really nice keyboard keep coming back to look at it

[philipVick]

I concur with Denisgsv, the fact that the doubling (and non-typing)  of letters is intermittent, suggests more a hardware issue than firmware and, since you've already checked your soldering, that pretty much only leaves the switch itself.

I bought the switches from Massdrop. Is it normal that two or three are faulty on a batch of 120 switches? Or is it just bad luck?

really nice keyboard keep coming back to look at it

Thank you! I put lots of effort to design and built it

[wolf]

I concur with Denisgsv, the fact that the doubling (and non-typing)  of letters is intermittent, suggests more a hardware issue than firmware and, since you've already checked your soldering, that pretty much only leaves the switch itself.

I bought the switches from Massdrop. Is it normal that two or three are faulty on a batch of 120 switches? Or is it just bad luck?

That would be a 1.6% - 2.5% failure rate.  I don't know what is normal for Gateron Brown as I don't know what their production/testing system is like. I also don't know how resistant to heat damage their switches are.

I do know that I've damaged the mechanism of switches in the past because I held the soldering iron on the posts for too long and damaged the switch due to conducted heat.  I have no idea if that is possible with Gateron switches,

Perhaps someone else has a better idea of what a normal level of fail rate is and how resilient the switches are.