[opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica

[TalkingTree]

Woops
What clock rating should be used? (If this is explained elsewhere I'm truly sorry)

16 MHz is mandatory. By the way, I had already put a crystal and capacitors in the BOM list so you should be ready to go.

[DevilZmods]

I'm looking to get some of these made and shippied to germany, but shipping is just as much as the pcbs themselves even before tax.

I Also fiddled around with smt assembly, but somehow the components don't align (identical misplacement within each component type) and i don't know how to "re-assign a correct 0 orentation package" which should be the definitive fix for the issue.

Is anyone interested in a blank pcb + components from lcsc? I might be able to assemble a few boards as well as i recently acquired a hot air soldering station.
Even better would be, if anyone could help me modify the project to make use of JLCPCBs (more or less - but advertised as) free smt assembly service!

I'm from germany, so at least the logistical part of this would be limited to the EU.

[IkabodLame]

I'm looking to get some of these made and shippied to germany, but shipping is just as much as the pcbs themselves even before tax.

I Also fiddled around with smt assembly, but somehow the components don't align (identical misplacement within each component type) and i don't know how to "re-assign a correct 0 orentation package" which should be the definitive fix for the issue.

Is anyone interested in a blank pcb + components from lcsc? I might be able to assemble a few boards as well as i recently acquired a hot air soldering station.
Even better would be, if anyone could help me modify the project to make use of JLCPCBs (more or less - but advertised as) free smt assembly service!

I'm from germany, so at least the logistical part of this would be limited to the EU.

Hi, I'm in the UK and I would be down to put in for a group buy of these PCB's. I wouldn't be able to help in terms of modifying it for the free SMT, but I might be able to ask around and see if I can find some help with regards to it.

[AngryCoder]

I'm looking to get some of these made and shippied to germany, but shipping is just as much as the pcbs themselves even before tax.

I Also fiddled around with smt assembly, but somehow the components don't align (identical misplacement within each component type) and i don't know how to "re-assign a correct 0 orentation package" which should be the definitive fix for the issue.

Is anyone interested in a blank pcb + components from lcsc? I might be able to assemble a few boards as well as i recently acquired a hot air soldering station.
Even better would be, if anyone could help me modify the project to make use of JLCPCBs (more or less - but advertised as) free smt assembly service!

I'm from germany, so at least the logistical part of this would be limited to the EU.

I am still interested an also from Germany. But I only have a TS100 at hand, not hot air soldering station, so for the first board an assembled one to start with is definitely a plus. But I am also interested to solder one by hand, because why not . On the long run I would also like to try to modify the files myself. But this will take time as I have no background in electronics. I'll write you a PM for further communication.

[Azurewrath]

Btw. could it be that your diode pads are too small/narrow? Or did i order the wrong diodes? It's almost impossible to solder a nice joint on both sides, since the contact is always at the absolute edge on one side. No matter if hand soldering or paste plus hot air..
I'm using 1N4148W in a SOD-123 package.. just as you wrote.

Edit: Yeah.. just checked. They are a bit too small. Looks like you used normal 0805 pads for the diodes, but they should be bigger/wider?
I mean, it's possible to make it work.. but it's a pain in the ass.

[Rayndalf]

I've figured out how to load the gerber and bom into JLCPCB, but I'm having troubling generating the correct pick and place file (the SMD components appear rotated 90 degrees and offset).

This is strange because the PCB appears correct in the 3D view in EasyEDA, but I have to export the files and load them into JLCPCB because the site integration between EasyEDA and JLCPCB isn't working for me.

Any idea what to do (other than learn to SMD solder )

[Rayndalf]

I figured out how to manually edit the CPL file for component placement. I have confirmed the orientation of the diodes, clock, and ATMEGA32... does capacitor orientation matter?

[TalkingTree]

does capacitor orientation matter?

Only if they are electrolytic and on this board they are not.

[Rayndalf]

does capacitor orientation matter?

Only if they are electrolytic and on this board they are not.

So are the crystal, diodes, and ATMEGA the only components that require a specific orientation? Is it fair to assume that all the other components aren't polar?

It looks like every part except for the USB C connector is supported for SMT assembly, so I guess I'll have to attach those myself.

Would it be alright if I ran a group buy for this board (after I order a set and can confirm that they work?)

[TalkingTree]

So are the crystal, diodes, and ATMEGA the only components that require a specific orientation? Is it fair to assume that all the other components aren't polar?

Technically the crystal isn't, you could turn it 180° without a problem.

It looks like every part except for the USB C connector is supported for SMT assembly, so I guess I'll have to attach those myself.

The USB type C connector has through hole mounting but, if you look closer, you'll notice the connection pins are actually SMD.

Would it be alright if I ran a group buy for this board (after I order a set and can confirm that they work?)

License is CC-BY 3.0. You can even sell it for your own profit. You just have to share any modification you make, if you then sell the board.

[Rayndalf]

As for the USB C connector I meant that JLCPCB's SMT assembly service doesn't support the component, but I'm sure I can install it myself.

If the first 5 I order work I will run a group buy if there is interest. The only modification I've made is fixing the pick and place file generated by EasyEDA, but I'd be happy to share it once I can confirm it works.

[Rayndalf]

I finally go to place an order and there is an inventory shortage of the ATMEGA32U4

Guess I'll have to wait to place an order until they restock.

[TalkingTree]

I finally go to place an order and there is an inventory shortage of the ATMEGA32U4

Guess I'll have to wait to place an order until they restock.

Try LCSC.com

[Rayndalf]

The ATMEGA32U4 was restocked. Assuming the first order works I'll start an IC in the next 2 weeks.

[Rayndalf]

So uh... JLCPCB decided the diode footprints were wrong so they... decided to flip the diodes?

Here is the original orientation

and here is how they decided to correct it


I'm hoping I'm the one who made a mistake and they're fixing it, but otherwise 

[TalkingTree]

So uh... JLCPCB decided the diode footprints were wrong

Why on God's green earth?

so they... decided to flip the diodes?

That's guaranteed not to work.

[Rayndalf]

I originally flipped the diodes because of an issue with the preview of the pick and place, but I rotated it around 90 + 180 instead of just 90(?) because the pick and place preview was upside down. I think they actually saved me from double stupid.

Edit: If the line on the diode is negative then positive side facing up is consistent with the image in your second post.

[TalkingTree]

If the line on the diode is negative

It is.

[Rayndalf]

If the line on the diode is negative

It is.

In that case then despite my best efforts JLCPCB will ship me some functioning boards.

I... I really think I need to brush up on my understanding of electrical engineering. My university touch on it in physics, but success (and sanity) in this hobby requires a bit more than being able to work a soldering iron.

[TalkingTree]

My university touch on it in physics, but success (and sanity) in this hobby requires a bit more than being able to work a soldering iron.

My university taught me a whole different set of things, and I still managed to make some working boards. Anyone can succeed.

[Rayndalf]

The boards arrived, and I can safely say the switch alignment holes are painfully tight, but the PCB fits the case well (and if I drill the out some of the case supports I can bolt it shut for greater stability).

This one is shaping up to be a "scrap" build. Hopefully I don't regret installing the switches (not soldered yet, but still painfully tight) before I get a USB C connector attached.

[heavyheaded]

So I've built one of the old rev with the misalignments and whatnot, but I had to use 3-pin switches b/c I couldn't get any 5-pin switches to fit.

Now I'm looking to order probably 10 or so PCBs, but I'm worried about the switch aligment holes still being too tight in the new revision.

Has this been addressed in the new rev, or can someone explain some easy steps for a PCB design noob to fix the holes with kicad? Are there settings in the JLPCB order that change the fit?

[Rayndalf]

Yes, they are painfully tight to assemble with modern MX blues (which should be standard Cherry spec).

The callus I got from installation just broke yesterday

[DevilZmods]

Hey @Rayndalf thanks for putting in the legwork here. I'd be interested in getting involved in a potential groupbuy by designing a vectorgraphic to put on the back of the board. Maybe something cherry (company) themed.

[Rayndalf]

Hey @Rayndalf thanks for putting in the legwork here. I'd be interested in getting involved in a potential groupbuy by designing a vectorgraphic to put on the back of the board. Maybe something cherry (company) themed.

I didn't do anything except ask a bunch of question and still almost screw my order up.

I'm still waiting on USB C connectors, but the PCB I hardwired seems to work (I only checked a few pads, I was missing my trusty conductivity testing fork).

I guess there's a chance I could run a buy, but I'd definitely need to figure out why the switch holes came out so small for me (but not for other orders). Either way I'll be wearing gloves next time.

[TalkingTree]

I just updated the current revision with an increased center hole diameter in the footprint.

[Rayndalf]

I just updated the current revision with an increased center hole diameter in the footprint.

My central "spring" holes were properly sized, it was the 2 smaller PCB mount holes that were small. Not sure if others had the same issues I did though.

[TalkingTree]

the 2 smaller PCB mount holes that were small.

Spec sheet states they should be 0.059 in +/- 0.002. Mine are 0.06 in.

[Rayndalf]

the 2 smaller PCB mount holes that were small.

Spec sheet states they should be 0.059 in +/- 0.002. Mine are 0.06 in.

I think it was either a mistake I made (scaling the submitted PCB?) or a problem of JLCPCB's end.

I assume the PCBs you received snugly held PCB mounted switches (but wasn't a thumb breaker).

[TalkingTree]

I assume the PCBs you received snugly held PCB mounted switches (but wasn't a thumb breaker).

Indeed. The center hole what a bit tight but not painful to deal with at all. The connection holes were just fine.
PCBs shouldn't be scaled at all.

[Rayndalf]

JLCPCB lists the dimensions as manufactured as 436.7 mm* 133.1 mm. Is that consistent with the order you had fullfilled?

[TalkingTree]

JLCPCB lists the dimensions as manufactured as 436.7 mm* 133.1 mm. Is that consistent with the order you had fullfilled?

Should be appropriate.

[Rayndalf]

JLCPCB lists the dimensions as manufactured as 436.7 mm* 133.1 mm. Is that consistent with the order you had fullfilled?

Should be appropriate.

Guess I just got "unlucky". They caught my diode issue and the boards seem to work so I don't really have any reason to complain. I guess I'll wear gloves next time I try to install switches.

[dredwerker]

Hi all

A redditor put me on to this thread. I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs. I tried downloading the EASYEDA gerber file and the bom and pick and place. Most of the pick and place stuff wasn't ready to be manufactured. Has anyone got a link on how order one of these PCBS with the pick and place done?

Or just to buy a few of these pcbs populated apart from the the switches?

I can solder switches but smd looks scary.

Also, has any one connected two pcbs together as my MY8300 has another double row at the top.

Thanks in advance all

[TalkingTree]

I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs.

Mind the different layout. The MY8300 has two extra top rows and this PCB doesn't.

[Rayndalf]

Hi all

A redditor put me on to this thread. I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs. I tried downloading the EASYEDA gerber file and the bom and pick and place. Most of the pick and place stuff wasn't ready to be manufactured. Has anyone got a link on how order one of these PCBS with the pick and place done?

Or just to buy a few of these pcbs populated apart from the the switches?

I can solder switches but smd looks scary.

Also, has any one connected two pcbs together as my MY8300 has another double row at the top.

Thanks in advance all

JLCPCB only need a Gerber, a Pick and Place file, and a Bill of Materials.
You can download the BOM from here https://easyeda.com/farmakon/GH80_3000-4f3cee521afd4be3858c4b5cc3b76f9e then open the EasyEDA file "in the editor"
Once you have that file open in EasyEDA you can go to File - Generate PCB Fabrication File(Gerber) to create a zipped Gerber file and generate the Pick and Place using the File - Export Pick and Place File. I found the diodes where showing up incorrectly when I loaded it into JLCPCB. I modified the orientation of the diodes (Pick and Place files are just a table you can edit in Excel LibreOffice Calc, which properly interprets the file as a table)... but wrong way (I rotated them 90 degrees, but upside down).

I will try to fix my Pick and Place File (with respect to the corrections made by JLCPCB) and upload it here, but JLCPCB was able to interpret my (wrong) Pick and Place file, make corrections the needed corrections, and manufacture at least one working board (I hardwired one, but I'm waiting on USB C connectors, the only component other than switches and lock light LEDs that JLCPCB didn't attach).

Once I get those connectors I'll have 2 extra PCBs if you'd rather go that route.

[dredwerker]

Hi all

A redditor put me on to this thread. I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs. I tried downloading the EASYEDA gerber file and the bom and pick and place. Most of the pick and place stuff wasn't ready to be manufactured. Has anyone got a link on how order one of these PCBS with the pick and place done?

Or just to buy a few of these pcbs populated apart from the the switches?

I can solder switches but smd looks scary.

Also, has any one connected two pcbs together as my MY8300 has another double row at the top.

Thanks in advance all

JLCPCB only need a Gerber, a Pick and Place file, and a Bill of Materials.
You can download the BOM from here https://easyeda.com/farmakon/GH80_3000-4f3cee521afd4be3858c4b5cc3b76f9e then open the EasyEDA file "in the editor"
Once you have that file open in EasyEDA you can go to File - Generate PCB Fabrication File(Gerber) to create a zipped Gerber file and generate the Pick and Place using the File - Export Pick and Place File. I found the diodes where showing up incorrectly when I loaded it into JLCPCB. I modified the orientation of the diodes (Pick and Place files are just a table you can edit in Excel LibreOffice Calc, which properly interprets the file as a table)... but wrong way (I rotated them 90 degrees, but upside down).

I will try to fix my Pick and Place File (with respect to the corrections made by JLCPCB) and upload it here, but JLCPCB was able to interpret my (wrong) Pick and Place file, make corrections the needed corrections, and manufacture at least one working board (I hardwired one, but I'm waiting on USB C connectors, the only component other than switches and lock light LEDs that JLCPCB didn't attach).

Once I get those connectors I'll have 2 extra PCBs if you'd rather go that route.

Thanks for the corrected file.

I must be going wrong with the BOM file it doesnt include things like the processor or the diodes :

D1,D2,D3,D4,D5,D6,D7,D8,D9,D10,D11,D12,D13,D14,D15,D16,D17,D18,D19,D20,D21,D22,D23,D24,D25,D26,D27,D28,D29,D30,D31,D32,D33,D34,D35,D36,D37,D38,D39,D40,D4...
NO
SOD-123
No part selected
117
---

Would your boards have usb c and processor etc soldered on?
 I have just soldered diodes and switches ok but my soldering skills are pretty sketchy.

[Rayndalf]

Hi all

A redditor put me on to this thread. I have an MY8300 and I really want to get a few of these pcbs. I tried downloading the EASYEDA gerber file and the bom and pick and place. Most of the pick and place stuff wasn't ready to be manufactured. Has anyone got a link on how order one of these PCBS with the pick and place done?

Or just to buy a few of these pcbs populated apart from the the switches?

I can solder switches but smd looks scary.

Also, has any one connected two pcbs together as my MY8300 has another double row at the top.

Thanks in advance all

JLCPCB only need a Gerber, a Pick and Place file, and a Bill of Materials.
You can download the BOM from here https://easyeda.com/farmakon/GH80_3000-4f3cee521afd4be3858c4b5cc3b76f9e then open the EasyEDA file "in the editor"
Once you have that file open in EasyEDA you can go to File - Generate PCB Fabrication File(Gerber) to create a zipped Gerber file and generate the Pick and Place using the File - Export Pick and Place File. I found the diodes where showing up incorrectly when I loaded it into JLCPCB. I modified the orientation of the diodes (Pick and Place files are just a table you can edit in Excel LibreOffice Calc, which properly interprets the file as a table)... but wrong way (I rotated them 90 degrees, but upside down).

I will try to fix my Pick and Place File (with respect to the corrections made by JLCPCB) and upload it here, but JLCPCB was able to interpret my (wrong) Pick and Place file, make corrections the needed corrections, and manufacture at least one working board (I hardwired one, but I'm waiting on USB C connectors, the only component other than switches and lock light LEDs that JLCPCB didn't attach).

Once I get those connectors I'll have 2 extra PCBs if you'd rather go that route.

Thanks for the corrected file.

I must be going wrong with the BOM file it doesnt include things like the processor or the diodes :

D1,D2,D3,D4,D5,D6,D7,D8,D9,D10,D11,D12,D13,D14,D15,D16,D17,D18,D19,D20,D21,D22,D23,D24,D25,D26,D27,D28,D29,D30,D31,D32,D33,D34,D35,D36,D37,D38,D39,D40,D4...
NO
SOD-123
No part selected
117
---

Would your boards have usb c and processor etc soldered on?
 I have just soldered diodes and switches ok but my soldering skills are pretty sketchy.

I used this BOM file, I think it's the one located at the first EasyEDA page, but it might be the one in the EasyEDA editor instead (I'm not sure, but it worked). The boards I received have everything attached except the USB C socket, LEDs, and switches.

U1 (ATMEGA32U4) and P2 (ISP header for hardwired cable?) are currently out of stock (and grayed out). You'll have to wait for the ATMEGA32U4, but I opted to not have the ISP header attached (I wasn't sure if it was meant for the back or front and I don't have any compatible cables anyway).

Edit: the last 4 items are not selected and I believe that is correct (they need to purchased and installed by you) because either go on the front (the LED lock lights) or are the USB C connector (which is a hybrid SMT and through hole component which doesn't support factory assembly). I forgot to order the USB C connectors with my order. I'm not sure how JLCPCB bundles parts with orders, but I've heard it's an option.   

[dredwerker]

How much would your boards cost?

[Rayndalf]

How much would your boards cost?

I'm still waiting on USB C connectors . I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.

JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.

[dredwerker]

How much would your boards cost?

I'm still waiting on USB C connectors . I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.

JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.

I have invented a bigger idiot. Possibly its just because parts are out of stock. I think I am nearly there but I am missing too many pieces. I don't even know what the usb part is

7   USB   P1   HDR-5X1/2.0   1

It doesnt seem detailed enough and nothing comes up on google. Nothing comes up on JLCPB either. Maybe I might be better off getting your ones. I am in Australia so I dont know what the shipping would be like.

[Rayndalf]

How much would your boards cost?

I'm still waiting on USB C connectors . I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.

JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.

I have invented a bigger idiot. Possibly its just because parts are out of stock. I think I am nearly there but I am missing too many pieces. I don't even know what the usb part is

7   USB   P1   HDR-5X1/2.0   1

It doesnt seem detailed enough and nothing comes up on google. Nothing comes up on JLCPB either. Maybe I might be better off getting your ones. I am in Australia so I dont know what the shipping would be like.

You can get the USB C plug here https://lcsc.com/product-detail/USB-Connectors_SHOU-HAN-TYPE-C16PIN_C393939.html
If you can find a way to order some as loose parts alongside the otherwise completed boards that would be ideal.

Are the ATMEGA32U4s already back in stock?

[TalkingTree]

7   USB   P1   HDR-5X1/2.0   1

That's  the USB Mini female connector which is obsolete since I replaced it with the USB type-C socket. You may skip that.

[dredwerker]

Thank so much for your help so far.

I am at the pick and place bit again and this is what I have:

No USB, get the USB C like you suggested.
Dont get the ISP ?

1,D2,D3,D4,D5,D6,D7,D8,D9,D10,D11,D12,D13,D14,D15,D16,D17,D18,D19,D20,D21,D22,D23,D24,D25,D26,D27,D28,D29,D30,D31,D32,D33,D34,D35,D36,D37,D38,D39,D40,D4...
NO
SOD-123
No part selected
117   

What is the Diode that needs to be selected?
X1
16MHz
OSC-YSX-3225_4P
No part selected
1      

Which crystal?

U1
ATMEGA32U4
SPARKFUN-DIGITALIC_TQFP44
No part selected
1   

Is there a replacement for the sparkfun atmega?

I think this is the only three parts I am stuck on. Along with a basic understanding of what I am doing

[Rayndalf]

This is strange. Effectively there are two different BOM files, one directly linked at the EasyEDA project page, and one you can generate from the PCB layout file you open with the EasyEDA editor. I used the file from the project page (I guess I manually entered missing info from the generated BOM and completely forgot?)

The diodes (D1-D117) is LCSC part # C30353

The crystal (X1) is LCSC part # C12668

The ATMEGA32U4 microcontroller (U1) is LCSC part # C44854

The microcontroller seems to still be out of stock though.

[Auslander]

v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.

Is it possible to upload v1.1 but with USB mini instead of Type-C?

[TalkingTree]

v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.

Is it possible to upload v1.1 but with USB mini instead of Type-C?

Sorry, I won't. I don't wanna fork the project myself and I'd rather enhance the PCB with the latest technology (granted that I can manage that).

[Rayndalf]

v1.1: Replaced USB mini with Type-C; fixed many misalignments. This should address every report posted so far.

Is it possible to upload v1.1 but with USB mini instead of Type-C?

Sorry, I won't. I don't wanna fork the project myself and I'd rather enhance the PCB with the latest technology (granted that I can manage that).

Speaking of which, are either of the hardwire cable points compatible with a JST daughterboard? A USB C connector that remains hidden in a chunky plastic case is fine, but I'm wondering if I could cut the case slightly and mount a daughterboard for a detachable cable.

[TalkingTree]

are either of the hardwire cable points compatible with a JST daughterboard?

There's a header for that purpose. In other words, yes.

[dredwerker]

How much would your boards cost?

I'm still waiting on USB C connectors . I currently have a couple left though. They'd be $25 a piece + shipping flashed and ready to go.

JLCPCB is pretty much idiot proof (by some miracle even I figured it out), so I'd totally recommend going that route if you don't mind getting some extras.

I have waited ages to see if stuff comes back in stock please can I buy some boards from you? I will then just get the USB C connector. How do you want to go about it?